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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  canadien  de  microreproductions  historiques 


*S 


>> 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  «ti  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cat  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-^tre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


D 
D 
D 
D 

a 
n 

D 
D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagee 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  at/ou  pelliculie 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  ert  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  li.e.  autre  que  biaue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plateii  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distorsion  le  long  de  la  marge  interieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d  u-ne  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  taxte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  iti  filmdes. 


r~yi    Coloured  pages/ 


D 
D 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 


Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 


Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculies 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcolor^es,  tacheties  ou  piquees 


□    Pages  detached/ 
Pages  detachees 

HShowthrough/ 
Transparence 

□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualiti  in^gale  de  {'impression 

Q    Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

□    Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure. 
etc..  cnt  it6  fiJm^es  d  nouveau  de  facon  a 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Q 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires: 


Pagination  is  as  follows  :   [i]  -  ix,  [1]  -  30,  30a  -  30b,  31  -  59, 59a  -  59b,  60  -  336,  [10]  p. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu^  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


J 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Ralph  Pickard  Bell  Library 
Mount  Allison  University 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^-  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  largo  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exempiaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

Ralph  Pickard  Bell  Library 
Mount  Allison  University 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exempiaire  film6,  et  en 
conformit6  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  film6s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commen9ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  -^>signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
film6s  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6.  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  bas.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

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Mount    A  l  l.  i  s  o  n 

U  N  I  \^  E  R  s  I  r  Y 

M  K  MORI  A  L      L  I  B  R  A  R  Y 


Thb  Lily  OF  THE  Valley.  Shraphita. 

Eugenie  Grandet.  Fame  and  Sorrow. 

The  Magic  Skin.  Ursula. 

The  Country  Doctor. 

For  sale  by  all  Booksellers.    Mailed^  post-paid,  by  publishers,  on  receipt  o/prict. 

ROBERTS  BROTHERS,  Boston. 


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1615 


1  rv  ■•''.' 


THE 


Boston  and  Maine  Railroad 

IS  THE  POPULAR   ROUTE  TO  ALL  POINTS 

NORTH,  EAST,  SOUTH,  AND  WEST, 

WITH  '     ■  :C 

Fast  Trains,  Through 'Car  Service,  and  Luxurious 

Equipment.  "v 

— ♦ 

THE  SEASHORE  LINE       ; 

To  all  points  in  MAINE  and  the  MARITIME  PROV- 
INCES, LEWISTON,  AUGUSTA,  BANGOR, 

ST.  JOHN,  and  HALIFAX.  V- 

The  Direct  Route  to  MONTREAL  and  QUEBEC  and 
all  Canadian  Points.  The  only  Line  running  Through 
Sleepers  from  BOSTON  to  ST.  PAUL  and  MINNE- 
APOLIS.    Only  one  change  of  cars  to  the  Pacific  Coast. 

THE   ALL  RAIL   LINE 

Via  the  Poughkeepsie  Bridge  route  between 

New  England  and  the  South  and  West, 

BOSTON  TO   PHILADELPHIA,   BALTIMORE, 
AND   WASHINGTON 

LOWEST  RATES   TO  ALL  POINTS.  ^ 


Full  information  as  to  Rates,  Time  of  Trains,  etc.,  can  be 
obtained  at  any  of  the  Principal  Offices  of  the  Company.  ..,., 

BOSTON  CITY  TICKET  OFFICE,  214  &  218  Washington  Street. 

J  AS.  T.  FURBER,   Vice-Pres.  and  General  Manager. 
*'^^^.  j.  FLANDERS,  Gen.  Pass,  and  Ticket  A gU.  "  .    •' 


/■  5^^. 


'^^ 


r 


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cot 


By  Gkorge  Meredith.  i6mo,  cloth,  Author's  edition,  uniform 
with  popular  edition  of  Meredith's  Novels.     Price,  $1.50. 

/^  l/iolin  Obllgato, 

And  Other  Stories.  By  Margaret  Crosby.  i6mo,  cloth, 
price,  $1.00. 

/^  Book  d  Nine  Tales. 

With  Interludes.  By  Arlo  Bates,  author  of  "A  Lad's  Love," 
"Albrecht,"  etc.     i6mo,  cloth,  price,  $1.00. 

/i  Qiiestion  of  Love. 

A  Story  of  Swiss  Life.  Translated  from  the  French  of  T.  Combe, 
by  Annie  R.  Ramsey.     i6mo,  cioth,  price,  $1.00. 

Autbors  Edition  of  George  Mereditlfs  Novels. 

10  volumes.  i6mo,  cloth,  popular  edition,  price,  $1.50  each; 
crown  8vo  edition,  price,  $2.00  each  ;  half  calf,  extra,  price, 
325.00  per  set. 


The  Ordeal  of  Richard  Feverel, 
Evan  Harrington. 
Diana  of  the  Crosswavs. 
Harry  Richmond. 
Sandra  Belloni. 


VlTTORIA. 

Rhoda  Fleming. 

Beauchamp's  Career. 

The  Egoist. 

The  Shaving  of  Shagpat  and  Farina. 


Bal{acs  Novels  in  English. 


Translated  by  Katherine  Prescott  Wormeley.  Already 
published.  Handsome  i2mo  volumes.  Uniform  in  size  and  style. 
Half  Russia,  price,  $1.50  each. 


Dl'Chesse  De  Langeais. 

Pbre  Goriot. 

The  Rise  and  Fall  of  Cesar  Bi- 

rotteau. 
Cousin  1>ette. 
Bureaucracy. 
The  Lily  of  the  Valley. 
Eugenie  Grandet. 
The  Magic  Skin. 


Louis  Lambert. 

Sons  of  the  Soil. 

Cousin  Pons. 

The  Two  Brothers. 

The  Alkahest. 

Modeste  Mignon. 

Seraphita. 

Fame  and  Sorrow. 

Ursula. 


The  Country  Doctor. 
For  sale  by  all  Booksellers.    Mailed,  post-paid,  by  publishers,  on  receipt  0/ price. 

KvJt/t:KiC)    ljKO  iiii^rvo,    ou^iuiN. 


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1615 


eady 
style. 


THE  /t 

Boston  and  Maine  Railroad 

IS   THE  POPULAR   ROUTE   TO   ALL   POINTS 

NORTH,  EAST,  SOUTH,  AND  WEST, 

WITH 

Fast  Trains,  Through 'Car  Service,  and  Luxurious 

Equipment. 

♦--- 

THE  SEASHORE   LINE 

To  all  points  in  MAINE  and  the  MARITIME  PROV- 
INCES, LEWISTON,  AUGUSTA,  BANGOR, 
ST.  JOHN,  and  HALIFAX. 

The  Direct  Route  to  MONTREAL  and  QUEBEC  and 
all  Canadian  Points.  The  only  Line  running  Through 
Sleepers  from  BOSTON  to  ST.  PAUL  and  MINNE- 
APOLIS.    Only  one  change  of  cars  to  the  Pacific  Coast. 

THE   ALL   RAIL   LINE       '^ 

Via  the  Poughkeepsie  Bridge  route  between 

New  England  and  the  South  and  West, 

BOSTON   TO   PHILADELPHIA,   BALTIMORE, 
AND   WASHINGTON. 

LCWEST  RATES   TO   ALL  POINTS.  ' 


Full  information  as  to  Rates,  Time  of  Trains,  etc.,  can  be 
obtained  at  any  of  the  Principal  Offices  of  the  Company. 

BOSTON  CITY  TICKET  OFFICE,  214  &  218  Washington  Street. 

J  AS.  T.  FURBER,    Vice-Pres.  and  General  Manager. 
^J3.  J.  FLANDERS,  Gen.  Pass,  and  Ticket  A^t. 


,i 


[Copy  right.] 


Established  1837. 


Theodore  Metcalf  &  Co. 

Pharmaceutical  Chemists  and 
^  Prescription  Druggists,  lij 

respectfully  request  the  favor  of 

compounding  your  Prescriptions  or  supply - 
\x\%  you  with  Household  Medicine. 

The  Prescription  Department  is 

in  charge  of  thoroughly  qualitied  Pharma- 
cists, whose  particular  attention  is  directed  to 
the  Preparation  and  Dispensing  of  Medicines, 
al$o  to  their  punctual  despatch. 

The  purity  and  quality  of  the 

Drugs  and  Chemicals  employed  are  deter- 
mined  by  Chemical  Analysis,  and  every  facil- 
ity provided  for  preparing  medicines  in  strict 
accordance  with  Physicians'  Prescriptions. 

Trustworthy  Messengers  de- 
liver packages  to  R.  R.  stations  or  express 
offices,  and  as  we  have  telephone  connection, 
Prescriptions  are  forwarded  at  short  notice, 
and  delivered  by  parcel  delivery  almost  hour- 
ly.   Telegrams  receive  prompt  attention. 

We  carry  in  stock  and  supply 

at  low  prices  every  article  used  for  the  Com- 
fort or  Treatment  of  the  Sick. 

A  full  line  of  Chemicals,  in  large 

or  small  quantities,  for  experimenters,  inven- 
tors, manufacturers,  and  schools. 

^g  Tremont  St.  (near  School),  Boston,  Mass. 

Back  Bay  Branch,  CopJev  Square,  cor.  Boj'/ston  and 

Clarendon  Streets.     Medicines  forwarded  care  of  any 

Hotel  in  the  United  States  or  Canada. 


1' 

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THE  CI 
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£ 


THE 


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MARITIME  PROVINCES: 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS. 


A  GUIDE  TO 


THE  CHIEF  CITIES,  COASTS,  AND   ISLANDS  OP  THE  MARITIME  PROV- 
INCES OF  CANADA,  AND  TO  THEIR  SCENERY  AND  HISTORIC 
ATTRACTIONS  ;  WITH  THE  GULF  AND  RIVER  OF  ST. 
LAWRENCE  TO   QUEBEC  AND   MONTREAL; 
ALSO,  NEWFOUNDLAND  AND  THE 
LABRADOR   COAST. 


With  Four  Maps  and  Four  Flann, 

EIGHTH    EDITION,  REVISED   AND   ENLARGED. 


The  time-tables  of  the  Provincial  steatners  are  liable  to  change.  Intend- 
ing tourists  should  write  to  the  agents  of  the  International,  Yarmouth,  and 
Prince-Edward  Island  lines,  at  Boston,  for  their  latest  folders,  showing 
times  of  sailing,  excursion-rates,  etc. 


BOSTON  AND  NEW  YORK : 
HOUGHTON,  MIFFLIN  AND  COMPANY. 
C^e  l&iberiltlie  l^xtH^,  Camirilrgf . 
1891 


OOPTBIGHT  1875  AND  1888, 

9y  JAMES   B.   OSGOOD   &  CO. 

188")  AND  1888, 

By  TICICNOB  Sc  CO. 

1891, 
By  HOUGHTON,  MIFFLIN  &  CO. 


,/  y, 


BELU 

COLLECTION 

i   .T.  -^   r-  O  Q 
1  .  ,  ^  I)  O  'J 

A/JoUPt     AIU60I 

Memorial 

t.iui-arv 


'»' 


\i 


PREFACE. 


9 


The  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  to  the  Maritime  Provinces 
is  to  supply  the  place  of  a  guide  in  a  land  where  professional 
guides  cannot  be  found,  and  to  assist  the  traveller  in  gaining 
the  greatest  possible  amount  of  pleasure  and  information  while 
passing  through  the  most  interesting  portions  of  Eastern  British 
America.  The  St.  Lawrence  Provinces  have  been  hitherto  casu- 
ally treated  in  books  which  cover  wider  sections  of  country  (the 
best  of  which  have  long  been  out  of  print),  and  the  Atlantic 
Provinces  have  as  yet  received  but  little  attention  of  this  kind. 
The  present  guide-book  is  the  first  which  has  been  devoted  to 
their  treatment  in  a  combined  form  and  according  to  the  most 
approved  principles  of  the  European  works  of  similar  purpose 
and  character.  It  also  includes  descriptions  of  the  remote  and 
interesting  coasts  of  Newfoundland  and  Labrador,  which  have 
never  before  been  mentioned  in  works  of  this  character.  The 
Handbook  is  designed  to  enable  travellers  to  visit  any  or  all 
of  the  notable  places  ia  the  Maritime  Provinces,  with  economy 
of  money,  time,  and  temper,  by  giving  lists  of  the  hotels  with 
their  prices,  descriptions  of  the  various  routes  by  land  and  water, 
and  maps  and  plans  of  the  principal  cities.  The  letter-press 
contains  epitomes  of  the  histories  of  the  cities  and  the  ancient 
settlements  along  the  coast,  statements  of  the  principal  scenic 
attractions,  descriptions  of  the  art  and  architecture  of  the  cities, 
and  statistics  of  the  chief  industries  of  the  included  Provinces. 
The  brilliant  and  picturesque  records  and  traditions  of  the  early 
French  and  Scottish  colonies,  and  the  heroic  exploits  of  the 
Jesuit  missionaries,  have  received  special  attention  in  connection 
with  the  localities  made  famous  in  those  remote  days  ;  and  the 
remarkable  legends  and  mythology  of  the  Micmac  Indians  are 


iv 


I'HEFACE. 


incorporated  with  tlie  ac(M)unt8  of  the  places  made  classic  by 
them.  The  naval  and  military  oju'rationa  of  the  wars  which 
centn'd  on  Port  Royal,  Louisbour;^',  and  Quebec  liave  been  con- 
d(!n8i'd  from  tlie  best  autlioritics,  and  the  mournful  evcntw  which 
are  commemorated  in  "  Evan''(']iti(' "  are  herein  analyzed  and 
recorded.  The  n(d»le  coast-Hciuiery  and  tlu;  favorite  summer- 
voyapes  with  wliich  the  northern  seas  abound  have  been  de- 
scribed at  len^ijth  in  these  par,'ea. 

The  plan  antl  structure  of  the  book,  its  system  of  trejitment 
and  forms  of  abbreviation,  have  been  derived  from  the  European 
Handbooks  of  Karl  Baedeker.  The  typography,  binding,  and 
system  of  city  plans  also  resemble  those  of  Baedeker,  and  hence 
the  grand  desiderata  of  compactness  and  portability,  which  have 
made  his  works  the  most  jjopular  in  Europe,  have  also  been 
attained  in  the  present  volume.  Nearly  all  the  facts  concerning 
the  routes,  hotMs,  and  scenic  attractions  have  been  framed  or 
verified  from  the  Editor's  personal  experience,  after  many 
months  of  almost  incessant  travelling  for  tliis  express  purpose. 
But  infallibility  is  impossible  in  a  work  of  this  nature,  especial- 
ly amid  the  rapid  changes  which  are  ever  going  on  in  America, 
and  hence  the  Editor  would  be  grateful  for  any  bona  fide  cor- 
rections or  suggestions  with  which  either  travellers  or  residents 
may  favor  him. 

The  maps  and  plans  of  cities  have  been  prepared  with  the 
greatest  care,  and  will  doubtless  prove  of  material  service  to  all 
who  may  trust  to  their  directions.  They  are  based  on  the  system 
of  lettered  and  numbered  squares,  with  figures  corresponding  to 
similar  figures,  attached  to  lists  of  the  chief  public  buildings, 
hotels,  churches,  and  notable  objects.  The  hotels  indicated  by 
asterisks  are  those  which  are  believed  by  the  Editor  to  be  the 


most  comfortable  and  elegant. 


M.  F.  SWEETSER, 

Care  of  Iloufjhton,  Mifflin  ^  Co. 
4  Park  St.,  Boston. 


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I.  Plan  of  Tour 

II.  Newfoundland  and  Labrador  . 

III.  Money  and  Travelling  Expenses 

IV.  Railways  and  Steamboats. 
V.  Round-Trip  Excursions  . 

VI.  Hotels 

VII.  Language 

VIII.  Climate  and  Dress 

IX.  Fishing 

X.  Miscellaneous  Notes  . 


PADS 
.       1 


2 
4 
4 
6 
7 
7 
8 
8 
9 


NEW  BRUNSWICK. 


route 


General  Notes 18 

1,  St,  John 1^ 

2.  The  Environs  of  St.  John 22 

1.  Lily  Lake.     Marsh  Road 22 

2.  Mispeck  Road.    Suspension  Bridge 23 

3.  Carleton 24 

St,  John  to  Eastport  and  St.  Stephen.    Passamaquoddy  Bay      .  25 

Grand  Manan 28 

Campobello 30a 

St,  John  to  St.  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen.    Passamaquoddy  Bay  30 

1.  St.  George.     Lake  Utopia 82 

2.  St.  Andrews.     Characook  Mountain 33 

3.  St.  Stephen.     Schoodic  Lakes 35 

St.  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen  to  Woodstock  and  Houlton        .  36 

7.  St.  John  to  Bangor  .        .        ,        .  ^ 37 

8.  St.  John  to  Fredericton,    The  St.  John  River   ....  39 

L  Kennebecasis  Bay 40 

2.  Belleisle  Bay 45 

8.  Fredericton 44 

4.  Fredericton  to  Miramichi 46 

Washademoak  Lake 47 

Grand  Lake 48 

Fredericton  to  Woodstock 49 

12.  Fredericton  to  Woodstock,  by  the  St.  John  River    ,       ,       .  51 

13.  Woodstock  to  Grand  Falls  and  RiviiiiRE  du  Loup   ....  68 


3, 

4. 

78. 

5. 


6. 


9, 
10. 
11, 


x»f**-- 


,? 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


ROUTE  PAGE 

1.  Tobiqiie  to  Bathurst 54 

2.  The  St.  John  to  the  Reatigouche 66 

3.  The  Madawaska  District 67 

4.  The  Maine  Wooda.     Temiscouata  Lake 68 

14.  St.  John  to  Shediac 69 

15.  The  Bav  or  Chaleur  and  the  North  Shore  of  New  Brunswick  60 

1.  Chatham  to  Shijipigau 61 

2.  Shippigan.     Bay  of  Chaleur 64 

8.  Bathurst  to  Caraquette 66 

4.  Cainpbellton  to  St.  Flavie 69 

16.  St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax 70 

1.  Quaco.    Sussex  Vale 71 

2.  Albert  County.    Moncton  to  Quebec 72 

8.  Dorchester.    Sackville 78 

NOVA  SCOTIA. 

General  Notes 75 

17.  St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax 78 

1.  Tantramir  Marsh.    Chignecto  Peninsula 79 

2.  North  Shore  of  Nova  Scotia 81 

18.  St.  John  to  Halifax,  by  the  Annapolis  Valley         ...  83 

1.  Annapolis  Royal 85 

2.  The  Annapolis  Valley 88 

3.  Kentville  to  Chester 90 

19.  Halifax 93 

20.  The  Environs  of  Halifax 100 

1.  Bedford  Basin.     Point  Pleasant 100 

21.  The  Basin  op  Minas.    Halifax  to  St.  John 101 

1.  Advocate  Harbor  and  Cape  d'Or 103 

2.  The  Basin  of  Minas 104 

22.  The  Land  of  Evangeline 107 

23.  Annapolis  Royal  to  Clare  and  Yarmouth 112 

1.  The  Clai-e  Settlements 113 

2.  The  Tusket  Lakes  and  Archipelago 115 

24.  DiGBY  Neck 116 

25.  Halifax  to  Yarmouth.    The  Atlantic  Coast  of  Nova  Scotia     .  117 

1.  Cape  Sambro.     Lunenburg 118 

2.  Liverpool 120 

•           3.  Shelburne 121 

4.  Cape  Sable 123 

26.  Halifax  to  Yarmouth,  by  the  Shore  Route       ....  126 

1.  Chester.    Mahone  Bay 127 

2.  Chester  to  Liverpool 128 

27.  The  Liverpool  Lakes 129 

28.  Halifax  to  Tangier 181 

29.  The  Northeast  Coast  of  Nova  Scotia 183 

80.  Sable  Island 184 


W^ 


CONTENTS. 


Tii 


66 
67 
68 
59 
60 
61 
64 
66 
69 
70 
71 
72 
78 


76 

78 

79 

81 

83 

85 

88 

90 

93 

100 

100 

101 

103 

104 

107 

112 

113 

115 

116 

117 

118 

120 

121 

123 

126 

127 

128 

129 

181 

183 

184 


route  paob 

81.  St.  John  and  Halifax  to  Pictou 136 

82.  St.  John  and  Halifax  to  the  Steait  of  Canso  and  Cape  Breton  188 

CAPE  BRETON. 

General  Notes 141 

83.  The  Strait  of  Canso 142 

84.  Arichat  and  Isle  Madame 145 

35.  The  Strait  of  Canso  to  Sydney,  Cape  Breton       .       .        .       .  146 

86.  Halifax  to  Sydney,  Cape  Breton 148 

87.  The  East  Coast  of  Cape  Breton.    The  Sydney  Coal-Fields        .  152 

88.  The  Fortress  of  Louisboueo 154 

39.  The  North  Shore  of  Cape  Breton 168 

1.  St.  Anne's  Bay 168 

2.  St.  Paul's  Island 160 

40.  The  Bras  d'Or  Lakes 161 

1.  Badcleck 162 

2.  Great  Bras  d'Or  Lake 164 

8.  The  Bras  d'Or  to  Halifax 166 

41.  Baddeck  to  Mabou  and  Port  Hood 167 

1.  St.  Patrick's  Channel.    Whycocomagh 167 

42.  The  West  Coast  of  Cape  Breton 168 

1.  Port  Hood.     Mabou 169 

2.  Margaree.     The  Lord's  Day  Gale 170 


48. 

44. 
45. 

46. 


47. 
48. 
49. 
50. 


81. 
52. 
63. 

64. 


PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 

General  Notes 172 

Shediac  to  Summerside  and  Charlottetown        ....  174 

1.  The  Northumberland  Strait 174 

Pictou  to  Prince  Edward  Island 176 

Charlottetown 175 

1.  Environs  of  Charlottetown 177 

Charlottetown  to   Summerside   and   Tiqnish.     The  Western 

Shores  of  Prince  Edward  Island 177 

1.  Rustico.    Summerside 178 

Charlottetown  to  .Georgetown 180 

Charlottetown  to  Soimts 182 

The  Magdalen  Islands 183 

St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon 186 

NEWFOUNDLAND. 

General  Notes 187 

Halifax  to  St.  John's,  Newfoundland 188 

St.  John's,  Newfoundland 189 

The  Environs  of  St.  John's 195 

1.  Portugal  Cove.    Logie  Bay.    Torbay 195 

Thb  Strait  Shore  op  Avalon.    St.  John's  to  Cape  BIacb  .       .  196 


Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


I 


ROUTE 


56. 


66. 
67. 
58. 
59. 
60. 


61. 


PAOB 

1.  The  Grand  Banks  of  Newfoundland IM 

St.  John's,  to  Labrador.    The  Northern  Co.\8t  of  Newfoundland   200 
1.  Bonavista  Bay 208 


2.  Twillingate.     Exploits  Island      .... 
St.  John's  to  Conception  Bay      .... 

Trinity  Bay 

The  Bay  of  Notre  Dame 

Placentia  Bay 

The  Western  Outports.    St.  John's  to  Cape  Ray 

1.  Fortune  Bay 

2.  Hermitage  Bay 

The  French  Shore.    Cape  Ray  to  Cape  St.  John 

1.  The  Interior  of  Newfoundland 

2.  The  Strait  of  Belle  Isle 


205 
206 
208 
210 
212 
213 
214 
215 
216 
218 
220 


4 


LABRADOR. 

General  Notes 223 

62.  The  Atlantic  Coast,  to  the  Moravian  Missions  and  Greenland  224 

1.  The  Moravian  Missions 226 

68.  The  Labrado|i  Coast  of  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle     .        .        .  227 

64.  The  Labrador  Coast  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence     .       .        .229 

1.  The  Mingan  Islands 231 

2.  The  Seven  Islands 232 

65.  Anticosti 234 


■a 
I 

v) 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 


General  Notes 
66.  Pictou  to  Quebec. 

1.  Paspebiac 

2.  Perc6 . 


67. 


68. 


The  Coasts  of  GaspS 


285 

238 

240 

242 

3.  Gasp6 244 

The  Lower  St.  Lawrence 246 

1.  Father  Point.     Rimouski 250 

2.  Bic.    Trois  Pistoles 251 

3.  St.  Anne  de  la  Pocati^re.     L'Islet 253 

Quebec 255 


Durham  Terrace 259 

Jesuits'  College.     Basilica '       .        .  261 

Seminary 262 

Laval  University.    Parliament  Building 263 


H6tel  Dieu.    Around  the  Ramparts 
The  Lower  Town       .... 
The  Environs  of  Quebec  . 

1.  Beauport.    Montmorencl  Falls 

2.  Indian  Lorette       .... 
8.  Chateau  Bigot.     Sillery     . 

4.  Point  Levi.    Chaudi^re  Falls 


266 
271 
276 
276 
278 
280 
282 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


PAGE 
.  199 

)  200 

.  208 
205 

,  206 
208 

,  210 
212 
218 
214 
216 
216 
218 
220 


.  228 

ND  224 

.  226 

227 
.  229 

231 
.  232 

234 


235 
238 
240 
242 
244 
246 
250 
251 
253 
255 
259 
261 
262 
263 
266 
271 
276 
276 
278 
280 
282 


ROUTE 

70.  Quebec  to  La  Bonne  Ste.  Anne  .... 

1.  The  Falls  of  St.  Anne 

71.  The  Isle  cf  Orleans 

72.  Quebec  to  Cacouna  and  the  Saguenay  River 

1.  St.  raul's  Bay 

2.  Murray  Bay 

3.  Cacouna 

73.  The  Saguenay  River 

1.  Tadou.sac 

2.  Cliicoutimi 

3.  Ha  Ha  Bay.    Lake  St.  John    .... 

4.  Eternity  Bay.     Cape  Trinity        .... 

74.  Quebec  to  Montreal.     The  St.  Lawrence  River 

75.  Montreal 

1.  Victoria  Square.     Notre  Dame 

2.  The  Gesi\.     St.  Patrick's  Church 

3.  Cathedral.     McGill  University.    Great  Seminary 

4.  Hotel  Dieu.     Mount  Royal.     Victoria  Bridge     . 

76.  The  Environs  of  Montreal 

1.  Around  the  Mountain.    Sault  au  Recollet  . 

2.  Lachine  Rapids.     Cauglinawaga 

3.  Beloeil  Mt.     St.  Anne 


Index  to  Localities 

Index  to  Historical  and  Biographical  Allusions 

Index  to  Quotations 

Index  to  Railways  and  Steamboats 


PAOE 

.    283 
286 

.    288 
291 

,    292 
294 

,  296 
297 
299 
300 
301 
803 
805 
309 
811 
SIS 
814 
816 
818 
818 
819 
820 

821 
832 
833 
334 


List  of  Authorities  Consulted 834 


MAPS. 

1.  Map  of  the  Maritime  Provinces. 

2.  Map  of  the  Acadian  Land:  between  pages  106  and  107. 

3.  Map  op  the  Saguenay  River:  opposite  page  297. 

4.  Map  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  Kiver;  opposite  page  297. 


PLANS    OF   CITIES. 

1.  St.  John:  between  pages  14  and  15. 

2.  Halifax  :  between  pages  92  and  93. 
8.  Quebec  :  between  pages  254  and  255. 

4.  Montreal  :  between  pages  308  and  809. 


ABBREVIATIONS. 


N.  —  North,  Northern,  etc. 
S.  —  South,  etc. 
E.  —  East,  etc. 
W.— West,  etc. 
N.  B.  —  New  Brunswick. 
N.  S.  —  Nova  Scotia. 
N.  F.  —  Newfoundland. 
Lab.  — Labrador. 


P.  E.  I.  —  Prince  Edward  Island. 

P.  Q.  —  Province  of  Quebec. 

M.  —  mile  or  miles. 

r.  — right. 

1.  —  left. 

ft.  —  foot  or  feet. 

hr.  —  hour. 

min.  —  minute  or  minutes. 


Asterisks  denote  objects  deserving  of  special  attention. 


?e  297. 


THE   MARITIME   PROYINCES. 


and. 


01 


ta 


INTRODUCTION. 


I.    Flan  of  Tour. 

The  most  profitable  course  for  a  tourist  in  the  Lower  Provinces  is  to 
keep  moving,  and  his  route  should  be  made  to  include  as  many  as  pos- 
sible of  the  points  of  interest  which  are  easily  accessible.  There  are  but 
few  places  in  this  region  wliere  the  local  attractions  are  of  sufficient  inter- 
est to  justify  a  prolongetl  visit,  or  where  the  accommodations  for  stran- 
gers are  adapted  to  niake  such  a  sojourn  pleasant.  The  historic  and 
scenic  beauties  are  not  concentrated  on  a  few  points,  but  extend  through- 
out the  country,  affording  rare  opportunities  for  journeys  whose  general 
course  may  be  replete  with  interest.  The  peculiar  charms  of  the  Mari- 
time Provinces  are  their  history  during  the  Acadian  era  and  their  noble 
coast  scenery,  —  the  former  containing  some  of  the  most  romantic  episodes 
in  the  annals  of  America,  and  the  latter  exhibiting  a  marvellous  blending 
of  mountainous  capes  and  picturesque  islands  with  the  blue  northern  sea. 
And  these  two  traits  are  intertwined  throughout,  for  there  is  scarce  a 
promontory  that  has  not  ruins  or  legends  of  French  fortresses,  scarce  a 
bay  that  has  not  heard  the  roaring  broadsides  of  British  frigates. 

The  remarkable  ethnological  phenomena  here  presented  are  also  cal- 
culated to  awaken  interest  even  in  the  lightest  minds.  The  American  tour- 
ist, accustomed  to  the  homogeneousness  of  the  cities  and  rural  communi- 
ties of  the  Republic,  may  here  see  extensive  districts  inhabited  by  French- 
men or  by  Scottish  Highlanders,  preserving  their  national  languages,  cus- 
toms, and  amusements  unaffected  by  the  presence  and  pressure  of  British 
influence  and  power.  Of  such  are  the  districts  of  Clare  and  Madawaska 
and  the  entire  island  of  Cape  Breton. 

All  these  phases  of  provincial  life  and  history  afford  subjects  for  study 
or  amusement  to  the  traveller,  and  may  serve  to  make  a  summer  voyage 
both  interesting  and  profitable. 

Travelling  has  been  greatly  facilitated,  within  a  few  years,  by  the  es- 
tablishment of  railways  and  steamship  routes  throughout  the  Provinces. 
From  the  analyses  of  these  lines,  given  in  the  following  pages,  the  tourist 

1  A 


INTRODUCTION. 


\su)  be  abltti.  compute  the  edit  o^"  his  trip,  both  in  money  and  in  time. 
The  following  Uwr  would  include  a  gliwipae  ut  the  chief  attractions  of  the 
lountry,  and  will  serve  to  convey  an  ultsa  of  the  time  requisite  :  — 

Bobton  to  St.  John 1^  days. 

•t.  John 1  " 

St.  ,<//'^n  to  Annapolis  and  HalilS^      ....  2  " 

Halitax 1  " 

Halifax  to  Sydney H  " 

The  Brafl  d'Or  Lakes* 1  •' 

Port  Hawkesbury  to  Pictou,  Charlottetown,  and  Shediac  2  " 

Shediac  to  Quebec  (by  steamer) 4  ** 

Quebec 3  " 

Quebec  to  Boston .  1  " 

Failures  to  connect 3  " 

,       21  .lays. 

To  this  circular  tour  several  side-trips  may  be  added,  at  the  discretion 
of  the  traveller.  •  The  most  desirable  among  these  are  the  routes  to  Pas- 
samaquoddy  Bay,  the  St.  John  River,  the  Basin  of  Minas  (to  Parrsboro*), 
from  Halifax  to  Chester  and  Mahone  Bay,  Whycocomagh,  or  Louisbourg 
(in  Cape  Breton),  and  the  Saf^uenay  River.  It  may  be  advisable  to  go  to 
(iuehec  by  the  Intercolonial  Railw f    (aking  a  night  and  a  day. 

If  the  tourist  wishes  to  sojourn  lor  several  days  or  weeks  in  one  place, 
the  most  eligible  points  for  such  a  visit,  outside  of  St.  John  and  Halifax, 
are  Frodericton,  St.  Andrews,  Grand  Manan,  Grand  Falls,  or  Dalhousie, 
in  New  Brunswick;  Annapolis,  WoUville,  Parrsboro',  or  Chester,  in  Nova 
Scotia;  Baddeck,  in  Cape  Breton;  and  Charlottetown,  in  Prince  Edward 
Island.  At  each  of  these  villages  are  small  but  comfortable  inns,  and  the 
Burvounding  scenery  is  attractive. 

II.    Newfoundland  and  Labrador. 

Extended  descriptions  of  these  r^^r'ote  northern  coat^i^  h  ve  been  given 
in  the  following  pages  for  the  ttse  of  the  increasing  '  '. .  lavellei 
who  yearly  pass  thitherward.  The  marine  scenery  oi  isewfoundland  is 
Ihe  grandest  on  the  North  Atlantic  coast,  and  here  are  all  the  varied  phe- 
nonici;''  of  the  northern  seas, —  icebergs,  the  aurora  borealis,  the  herds  of 
seals,  ii;.  V'solate  and  lofty  shores,  and  the  vast  fishing-fleets  from  which 
France  a^i.  '.i.v  Uv'  ■e<i  States  draw  their  best  seamen.  English  and 
American  y  hf  ••  en  grow  more  familiar  every  year  with  these  coasts, 
and  it  is  utc.  m>ng  more  ommon  for  gentlemen  of  our  Eastern  cities 
to  embark  on  lishing-schooners  and  make  the  voyage  to  Labrador  or  the 
Banks. 

The  tourist  can  also  reach  the  remotest  settlements  on  the  Labrador 


liiiic. 
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INTRODUCTION.  S 

coast  by  thi^  steamship  lli  "^  from  Halifax  tn  St.  John's,  N.  P.,  and  thence 
to  Battle  Harlior.  This  route  takes  n  long  period  of  tinio,  tlionjjh  the 
rxpcnso  is  cniiiparativcl  Mj^ht ;  and  thi^  arrommodations  on  thf  steam- 
ships bi'yond  St.  .John's  an;  (piito  inferior.  A  sli(»rf»'r  circular  tour  may 
bo  matle  by  taking  the  strainer  lioni  Halifax  to  St.  .lolin'.M,  and  at  8t. 
John's  embarking  on  the  Western  Outports  steamship,  which  coasts  along 
the  entire  S.  shore  of  the  island,  and  runs  down  to  Sydney,  C.  B., 
O^ice  a  month.  From  Sydney  the  tourist  can  return  to  Halifax  (or  St. 
Jrlin,  N.  H.)  by  way  of  the  Bras  d'Or  Lakes.  The  \V.'stern  Outports 
•  anship  also  visits  the  ipiaint  French  colony  at  St.  Pierre  and  Miipielon 
fortnightly,  and  the  traveller  can  stop  off  there  and  return  directly  to 
Halifax  by  the  Anglo-French  steamship,  which  leaves  St.  Pierre  fort- 
nightly. 

Sea-Sickness.  The  chief  InMiefit  to  be  derived  on  tli  se  routes  is  the 
invlgoratlon  of  tlie  bracing  air  of  the  northern  sea.  I'  rsona  who  are 
liable  to  sea-sickness  should  avoid  the  Newfoumlland  trip,  since  rough 
weather  is  fre(|uently  experienced  there,  and  the  stewanis  are  neither  as 
numerous  nor  as  dexteroJis  as  those  on  the  transatlantic  steanshlps.  The 
Editor  is  tempted  to  Insert  here  a  bit  of  personal  oxperlc  ce,  showing 
how  the  results  nf  early  experiences,  combined  with  the  advli  ■  of  veteran 
travellers,  have  furnished  luni  with  a  code  of  rules  which  are  us  I'ul  against 
the  vial  iht  vier  in  all  its  forms.  During  28  days  on  the  Mediterranean 
Sea  and  45  days  on  the  Canadian  witers,  the  observance  of  those  simple 
rules  prevented  sickness,  although  every  condition  of  weather  ■'as  expe- 
rienced, from  the  tierce  simoom  of  the  Lybian  Desert  to  the  ic v  gales  of 
Labrador.  The  chief  rule,  to  winch  the  others  are  but  coroll  ies,  is, 
Don't  think  of  your  physical  self.  Any  one  in  perfect  health,  \  ho  will 
busy  himself  for  an  hour  in  thinking  about  the  manner  In  wh;ch  his 
breatli  Is  Inhaled,  or  In  which  his  eyes  perform  their  functions,  wi'l  soon 
feel  111  at  ea  i;  In  his  lungs  or  eyes,  and  can  only  regain  tranquil;  'y  by 
banishing  the  disturbing  thoughts.  Avoid,  therefore,  this  gloom  and 
apprehensive  self-contemplation,  and  fill  the  mind  with  bright  an.  en- 
grossing themes,  —  the  conversation  of  merry  companions,  the  exciting 
vicissitudes  of  card-playing,  or  the  marvellous  deeds  of  .some  hero  oi  ro- 
mance. Never  think  of  your  throat  and  stomach,  nor  think  of  thinl  ing 
or  not  thinking  of  them,  but  forget  that  such  conveniences  exist.  K^-ep 
on  deck  as  much  as  possible,  warndy  wrapped  up,  and  inhaling  the  saity 
.air  of  the  sea.  Don't  stay  in  the  lee  of  tlie  funnel,  where  the  smell  of  oil 
lis  nauseating.  And  if  you  are  still  ill  at  ea.se,  lie  down  in  your  state- 
jroom,  with  the  port-hole  slightly  opened,  and  go  to  sleep.  The  tourist 
[should  purchase,  before  leaving  Halifax,  two  or  three  lively  novels,  a  flask 
)f  fine  brandy,  a  bottle  of  pickled  limes,  and  a  dozen  lemons. 


INTRODUCTION. 


III.    Money  and  Travelling  Expenses. 

Dominion  currency  passes  freely  everywhere  in  Canada,  also  the  bills  of 
all  the  prominent  banks  of  the  upper  and  lower  Provinces. 

United-States  silver  is  accepted  on\y  in  small  sums,  and  then  nt  a  dis- 
count. 

United-States  bills  are  accepted,  but  there  has  lately  been  some  movement 
against  taking  them  at  par,  as  used  to  be  the  custom. 


IV.    Bailways  and  Steamboats. 

The  new-born  railway  system  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  is  being  ex- 
tended rapidly  on  all  sides,  by  the  energy  of  private  corporations  and 
the  liberality  of  the  Canadian  Government.  The  lines  are  generally  well 
and  securely  constrncted,  on  English  principles  of  solidity,  and  are  not 
yet  burdened  by  such  a  pressure  of  traffic  as  to  render  travelling  in  any 
way  dangerous.  The  cars  are  built  on  the  American  plan,  and  are  suf- 
ficiently comfortable.  On  all  trains  there  are  accommodations  for  smo- 
kers. Pullman  cars  were  introduced  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway  in  1874, 
and  are  regularly  run  there,  and  also  on  the  Canadian  Pacific  (formerly 
the  New-B  nswick  Railway).  There  are  restaurants  at  convenient  dis- 
tances on  the  lines,  where  the  trains  stop  long  encugh  for  jiassongers  to 
take  their  meals.  The  narrow-gauge  cars  on  the  Prince  Edward  Island 
Railway  will  attract  the  attention  of  travellers,  on  account  of  their  singular 
construction.     The  tourist  has  choice  of  three  grades  of  accommodation 


i 


INTRODUCTION. 


5 


he  bills  ol 
n  at  a  dis- 
movement 


on  the  chief  railways,  —  Pullmar.  car,  first-class,  and  second-class.  The 
latter  mode  of  travelling  is  very  uncomfortable. 

Good  accommodations  are  given  on  the  vessels  which  ply  between  Bos- 
ton and  St.  John  and  to  Halifax  and  Prince  Edward  Island.  Tl)e  cal)ins 
of  the  Quebec  steamships  are  elegantly  fitted  up,  and  are  airy  and  spacious. 
Tlie  Annapolis,  Minas,  Prince  Edward  Island,  and  Newfoundland  lines 
have  comfortable  accommodations,  and  the  Yarmouth  and  North  Shore  ves- 
sels are  also  fairly  equipped.  The  lines  to  the  Magdalen  Islands,  St.  Pierre, 
and  along  the  Newfoundland  and  Labrador  coasts  are  primarily  intended 
for  the  transportation  of  freiglit.  and  for  successfully  encountering  rough 
weather  and  heavy  seas,  and  have  small  cabins  and  plain  fare.  The  Sa- 
guenay  steamers  resemble  the  better  class  of  American  river-boats,  and 
have  fine  accommodations. 

The  Mail-Stages.  — The  remoter  districts  of  the  Provinces  are  visited 
by  lines  of  stages.  The  tourist  will  naturally  be  deceived  by  the  grandil- 
oquent titles  of  "Royal  Mail  Stage,"  or  "Her  Majesty's  Mail  Route," 
and  suppose  that  sonie  reflected  stateliness  will  invest  the  vehicles  that 
bear  such  august  names.  In  point  of  fact,  and  with  but  two  or  three 
exceptions,  the  Provincial  stages  are  far  from  corresponding  to  such  ex- 
pectations ;  being,  in  most  cases,  the  rudest  and  plainest  carriages,  some- 
times drawn  by  but  one  horse,  and  usually  unprovided  with  covers.  The 
fares,  however,  are  very  low,  for  this  class  of  transportation,  and  a  good 
rate  of  speed  is  usually  kept  up. 


Is  being  ex- 
Irations  and 
|nerally  well 
md  are  not 
[ling  in  any 
md  are  suf- 
is  for  smn- 
;ay  in  1874, 
ic  (formerly 
jvenient  dis- 
ij^^spngers  tn 
rard  Island 
leir  singular 
)mmodation 


G 


INTRODUCTION. 


V.   Round-Trip  Excursions. 

During?  the  summer  and  early  autumn  the  railway  and  steamship  com- 
panies publifh  lists  of  excursions  at  greatly  reduced  prices.  Information 
and  lists  of  these  routes  may  be  obtained  of  the  General  Passenger  Agent 
of  the  Boston  &  Maine  It.  K.,  Boston;  the  International  Steamship  Co., 
Boston;  the  Yarmouth  Steamsliip  Co.,  Boston;  and  the  Boston,  Ilahfax, 
and  Prince-Edward  Island  Steamship  Co.,  Boston. 

Travellers  who  prefer  to  go  by  railway,  across  the  State  of  Maine,  can 
send  for  the  snmmer-pxcursioi  book  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad,  or  of 
the  Maine  Central  Railroad.  (Address  the  latter  at  Portland,  Maine.) 
Small  books  are  issued  every  spring  by  these  companies,  each  giving  sev- 
eral hundred  combinations  of  routes,  with  their  prices.  They  may  be  ob- 
tained on  application,  in  person  or  I)y  letter,  at  the  above-mentioned  offices. 
The  excursion  tickets  are  gooil  during  the  season,  and  have  ail  the  privi- 
leges of  first-class  tickets.  Tlie  following  tours  .vill  serve  to  convey  an 
idea  of  tlie  pecuniary  expense  incurred  in  a  trip  from  Boston  through  the 
best  sections  of  the  Maritime  Provinces. 

INTERNATIONAL   STEAMSHIP   CO. 

Halifax  Bound  Trip  Excursion.  —Bot^ton  to  St.  John  by  International 
Stwimsliip  Co.'h  Steamers  ;  St.  John  to  Annapolis  by  Bay  of  Fundy  Steamers ; 
Annapolis  to  Halifax  by  W.  &  A.  Ilailway  ;  Halifax  to  St.  John  by  Intercolonial 
llaihvay  ;  St.  John  to  Boston  by  International  Steamship  Cp.'s  Steamers     Fare,  $18. 

Three  Pror'Dices  Excursion.  —  Boston  to  St.  Jolin  by  Jnternational  Steam- 
ship Co.'.''  Steamers  ;  St.  John  to  Annapolis  by  Bay  of  Fundy  Steamers ;  Annapolis 
to  Halifax  by  \V.  »S:  A.  Railway  ;  Halifax  to  I'ictou  by  Intercolonial  Railway  ;  Fic- 
tou  to  Charlottetown  tiy  P.  E.  1.  Steamers  ;  Charlottetown  to  Summcrside  by 
P.  K.  I,  Railway  ;  Summerside  to  Shediac  by  P.  E.  I.  Steamers ;  Shediac  to  St. 
John  by  Intercolonial  Railway  ;  St.  John  to  Boston  by  International  Steamship 
Co.'s  Steamers.     Fare,  ^  22. 

Eastport  Excursion.  —  Boston  to  Eastport, and  return, by  International  Steam- 
ship Co.'s  Steamer.     Fare,  !*  7  50. 

St.  John  Excursion.  — Boston  to  Eastport,  and  St.  John,  and  return,  by  Inter- 
national Steamsliip  Co.'s  Steamer      Fare,  S  8  50. 

The  other  companies  have  groups  of  exenrsions  of  equal  variety  and  in- 
terest, and  will  be  glad  to  send  their  books  to  applicants. 

The  route-book  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad  may  be  obtained  by 
sending  to  the  General  Passenger  Agent,  D.  J.  Flanders,  Boston,  or  apply- 
ing at  the  passenger  ticket-office,  ^yashington  Street. 


r>l 


I 


;liip  com- 
onnatioii 
;er  Agent 
ship  Co., 
,  Halifax, 


INTRODUCTION. 


laine,  can 
road,  or  of 
I,  Maine.) 
ivini?  sev- 
iiay  be  ob- 
led  offices. 
1  the  privi- 
convey  an 
trough  the 


nternational 
|r  Steamers; 
Lntercolonial 
I  Fare,  5*18. 
)nal  Steam- 
Annapolis 
way  ;  Fic- 
nicrside  by 
Uac  to  St. 
Steamship 

onal  Steam- 

n,  by  Inter- 

;ty  and  in- 

jtained  by 
,  or  apply- 


•f? 


VI.    Hotels. 

The  hotels  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  are  far  behind  the  age,  and 
thereby  the  pleasure  of  a  journey  in  this  beautiful  region  is  greatly 
lessened  for  the  sybaritic  Americans.  The  general  rates  at  the  better  ho- 
tels of  the  second-class  is  ;i$  2  a  day;  and  the  village  inns  and  country  tav- 
erns charge  from  3  1  to  $  1.50,  with  reductions  for  boarders  by  the  week, 

VII.    Language. 

The  English  language  will  be  found  sufficient,  unless  the  tourist  desires 
to  visit  the  more  remote  districts  of  Cape  Breton,  or  the  Acadian  settle- 
ments. The  Gaelic  is  probably  the  predominant  language  on  Cape  Breton, 
but  English  is  also  spoken  in  the  chief  villages  and  fishing-communities. 
In  the  more  secluded  farming-districts  among  the  highlands  the  Gaelic 
tongue  is  more  generally  used,  and  the  tourist  may  sometimes  find  whole 
families,  not  one  of  whom  can  speak  English. 

In  the  villages  along  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  and  especially  on  the 
North  Shore,  the  French  language  is  in  common  use. 

The  relation  of  this  language  to  the  polite  French 
speech  of  the  present  day  is  not  clearly  understood,  and  it  is  frequently 
stigmatized  by  Americans  as  '*an  unintelligible  patois."  This  state- 
ment is  erroneous.  The  Canadian  French  has  borrowed  from  the  Eng- 
lish tongue  a  few  nautical  and  political  terms,  and  has  formed  for  itself 
words  describing  the  peculiar  phenomena  and  conditions  of  nature  in  the 
new  homes  of  the  people.  The  Indians  have  also  contributed  numerous 
terms,  descriptive  of  the  animals  and  their  habits,  and  the  operations  of 
forest-life.  But  the  interpolated  words  are  of  rare  occurrence,  and  the 
language  is  as  intelligible  as  when  brought  from  the  North  of  France,  two 
centuries  ago.  It  is  far  closer  in  its  resemblance  to  the  Parisian  speech 
than  are  the  dialects  of  one  fourth  of  the  departments  of  France.  Trav- 
ellers and  immigrants  from  Old  France  find  no  difficulty  in  conversing 
with  the  Lower-Canadians,  and  the  aristocracy  of  Quebec  speak  as  pure 
an  idiom  as  is  used  in  the  Faubourg  St.  Germain. 


! 


8  INTRODUCTION. 

This  language  has  an  extensive  and  interesting  literature,  which  in- 
cludes science,  theology,  history,  romance,  and  poetry.  It  has  also 
numerous  newspajiers  and  magazines,  and  is  kept  from  adulteration  by 
the  vigilance  of  several  colleges  and  a  powerful  university.  It  is  used, 
co-ordinately  with  the  English  language,  in  the  records  and  journals  of 
the  Dominion  and  Quebec  Parliaments,  and  speeches  and  pleadings  in 
l""ren(;h  are  allowable  before  those  Parliaments  and  the  courts  of  t^uubec. 

Thus  much  to  prove  the  substantial  identity  of  the  Lower-Canadian  and 
French  languages.  The  tourist  who  wishes  to  ramble  through  the  an- 
cient French-Canadian  districts  will,  therefore,  get  on  very  well  if  he  has 
travelled  much  in  Old  France. 

VIII.    Climate  and  Dress. 

The  more  northerly  situation  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  and  their  vicin- 
ity, on  so  many  sides,  to  the  sea,  render  the  climate  even  more  severe  and 
uncertain  than  that  of  New  England,  The  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are 
much  farther  apart  than  in  the  corresponding  latitudes  of  Europe,  and, 
as  Marmier  expresses  it,  this  region  "combines  the  torrid  climate  of 
southern  regions  with  the  severity  of  an  hyperborean  winter."  During 
the  brief  but  lovely  summer  the  atmosphere  is  clear  and  balmy,  and 
vegetation  flourishes  amain.  The  winters  are  long  and  severe,  but  ex- 
ercise no  evil  eflfect  on  the  people,  nor  restrain  the  merry  games  of  the 
youths.  Ever  since  Knowles  sent  to  England  his  celebrated  dictum  that 
the  climate  of  Nova  Scotia  consisted  of  "  nine  months  of  winter  and  tliree 
months  of  fog,"  the  people  of  Britain  and  America  have  had  highly  ex- 
aggerated ideas  of  the  severity  o.'  the  seasons  in  the  Provinces.  These 
statements  are  not  borne  out  by  the  facts  ;  and,  though  Nova  Scotia 
and  New  Brunswick  have  not  the  mild  skies  of  Virginia,  their  coldest 
weather  is  surpassed  by  the  winters  of  the  Northwestern  States.  The 
meteorological  tables  and  the  physical  condition  of  the  people  prove  that 
the  climate,  though  severe,  is  healthy  and  invigorating.  The  time  has 
gone  by  for  describing  these  Provinces  as  a  gloomy  land  of  frozen  Hyper- 
boreans, and  for  decrying  them  with  pessimistic  pen. 

The  worst  annoyance  experienced  by  tourists  is  the  prevalence  of  dense 
fogs,  which  sometimes  sweep  in  suddenly  from  the  sea  and  brood  over  the 
cities.  In  order  to  encounter  such  xmwelcome  visitations,  and  also  to  be 
prepared  against  fresh  breezes  on  the  open  sea,  travellers  should  be  pro- 
vided with  heavy  shawls  or  overcoats,  and  woollen  underclothing  should 
be  kept  at  hand. 

IX.    Fishing. 

All  leases  are  sold  at  public  auction,  to  the  highest  bidder,  and  as  soon  as 
vaca-iit  are  auain  sold.  The  Restigouc'ue,  Nepesiquit,  and  many  other  prin- 
cipal rivers  will  become  vacant  and  be  resold  in  March,  18ii2.  The  leases 
on  the  Kestigouche  each  cover  10  miles  of  river.     The  lishing  is  the  best 


-^ 

><i«; 


INTRODUCTION. 


which  in- 
;   has   also 
aeration  by 
It  is  used, 
journals  of 
leading's  in 
f  (.Quebec, 
madian  and 
igh  the  an- 
il! if  he  has 


their  vicin- 
}  severe  and 
uid  cold  are 
lurope,  and, 
.  climate  of 
r."    During 
balmy,  and 
ere,  but  ex- 
;ames  of  the 
dictum  that 
er  and  three 
1  highly  ex- 
ces.     These 
^ova  Scotia 
heir  coldest 
itates.     The 
e  prove  that 
lie  time  has 
zen  Hyper- 

ice  of  dense 
)od  over  the 
Id  also  to  be 
luld  be  pro- 
liing  should 


Id  as  soon  as 

other  prin- 

The  leases 

is  the  best 


ill  the  world,  and  the  river  navigable  all  summer.  The  scenery  is  unsur- 
passed. Hundreds  of  American  ladies  and  gentlemen  spend  their  Juno 
and  July  on  the  Uestigouche,  Nepesiquit,  Southwest  Miraniichi,  Tobique,  or 
other  rivers.  Many  of  tliem  have  handsome  fishing-lodges  and  c^ub-houses. 
In  1890  there  were  1,480  salmon,  averaging  23  lbs.,  killed  by  anglers  on 
the  Restigouche;  and  020,  averaging  12  lbs.,  on  the  Nepesiquit.  The  gov- 
ernment leases  only  cover  those  portions  of  the  river  which  are  uny ranted, 
and  there  are  rjranted  lots  in  many  of  tlie  stretches  leased  in  tliese  cases. 
The  granted  portions  are  excepted  from  the  leases,  and  the  fishing  is  in  the 
grantees,  many  of  whom  have  sold  to  private  parties  or  clubs.  Some  still 
own  them,  and  either  lease  them  by  the  day  or  for  short  terms.  There 
is  first-class  salmon-fishing  on  the  Southwest  l\Iiramichi.  The  waters  are 
owned  by  private  individuals.  Some  of  these  waters  are  for  sale  in  fee 
simple.  Permits  by  the  day  or  for  the  season  can  always  be  had  on  reason- 
able terms  on  application  to  the  Fishery  Commissioner  of  New  Brunswick 
(at  Fredericton),  who  is  prepared  at  all  times  cheerfully  to  give  information 
to  persons  desiring  it  as  to  the  fishing  and  hunting  in  any  of  the  rivers  or 
forests.  Parlies  desirous  of  fishing  should  correspond  well  in  advance,  that 
selection  of  river  may  be  made  and  guides  secured.  All  the  rivers  may  be 
conveniently  reached  by  rail  from  Fredericton,  and  the  be  t  of  tackle  and 
supplies  can  be  had  there  at  reasonable  figures.  The  best  fishing  on  most 
rivers  is  about  the  15th  of  June. 

Lessees  are  bound  by  condition  of  their  leases  to  place  as  many  guardi- 
ans on  leased  premises  .as  required  by  Surveyor  General,  —  usually  one  on 
each  leased  lot.  The  lessees  on  the  principal  rivers  are  mostly  Americans, 
and  they  are  always  ready  in  their  own  interest  to  put  on  more  guardians 
than  are  required.  The  Tobique  River  lease  has  been  assigned  to  a  club 
composed  mostly  of  Philadelphia  men.  Hotel  accommodation  can  be  had 
at  any  of  the  towns  where  the  railways  strike  the  rivers;  but  anglers  as- 
cending the  river  to  fish  must  in  most  instances  go  by  canoe,  and  camp  on 
the  river-banks.  Each  angler  ought  to  have  a  canoe  and  two  men  to  him- 
self. A  canoe  and  two  men  costs  $2.50  a  day,  with  provisions.  The  mea 
are  good  canoe-men  and  guides,  and  generally  fair  cooks. 

"  The  Game  Fish  of  the  Northern  States  and  British  Provinces,"  by 
Robert  B.  Roosevelt  (published  by  Carleton,  of  New  York,  in  1865), 
contains  an  account  of  the  salmon  and  sea-trout  fishing  of  Canada  and 
New  Brunswick.  The  pursuit  of  sea-trout  on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence 
and  Laval  is  described  in  pages  50-88  and  315-321;  the  Labrador  rivers, 
pages  107-111  ;  the  Miraniichi  and  Nepisiguit  Rivers,  pages  111-145  ; 
the  Schoodic  Lakes,  pages  145-147. 

"  Fishing  in  American  Waters,"  by  Genio  C.  Scott  (published  by  Har- 
per and  Brothers,  18(39),  contains  practical  directions  to  sportsmen,  and 
graphic  descriptions  of  fishing  in  the  rivers  of  New  Brunswick  and  Lower 
Quebec. 

"  Frank  Forester's  Fish  and   Fishing  of  the  United  '::tates  and  British 
1* 


'IP 


10 


INTRODUCTION. 


Provinces  of  North  America,"  by  H.  W.  IleibiMt  (New  York,  1850),  is  to 
a  large  extent  technical  and  scii-ntiiic,  and  contains  but  a  few  incidental 
allusions  to  the  i)rovincial  fisheries. 

"The  Fishing  Tourist,"  by  Charles  Ilallock  (published  by  Harper  and 
Brothers,  187:5),  contains  about  100  i)ages  of  pleasant  descriptions  relat- 
ing to  the  Sclioodic  Lakes,  the  best  trout  and  salmon  streams  of  Nova 
Scotia,  New  Brunswick,  and  Cape  Breton,  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  the  Sague- 
nay  and  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  Anticosti,  and  Labrador.  The  principal 
safmon  and  trout  streams  in  New  Brunswick  are  leastul  hy  the  Provincial 
Govermnent  at  public  auction.  For  particulars,  address  the  Surveyor- 
General  at  Fredericton. 

IX.    Miscellaneous  Notes. 

The  times  of  departure  of  the  provincial  steamships  are  liable  to  change 
every  season.  The  tourist  can  liisd  full  particulars  of  the  days  of  sailing, 
etc.,  on  arriviug  at  St.  John,  from  the  local  and  the  Halifax  newspa- 
pers. The  names  of  the  agents  of  these  lines  have  also  been  given  here- 
iiiafter,  and   lurlnci   iniuuuauon  may   be  obtamed    oy  vvnling  to  their 

addresses. 

The  custom-house  formalities  at  the  national  frontiers  depend  less  upon 
the  actual  laws  than  upon  the  men  who  execute  them.  The  examination 
of  baggage  is  usually  conducted  in  a  lenient  manner,  but  trunks  and 
packages  are  sometimes  detained  on  account  of  the  ^jresence  of  too  many 
Canailian  goods.  It  is  politic,  as  well  as  gentlemanly,  for  the  tourist  to 
afford  the  ollicers  every  facility  for  the  inspection  of  his  baggage. 

The  people  of  the  Provinces  are  generally  courteous,  and  are  willing  to 
answer  any  civilly  put  questions.  The  inhabitants  of  the  more  remote 
districts  are  distinguished  for  their  hospitality,  and  are  kindly  disposed 
and  honest. 

The  New-Brunswick  Division  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  originally 
a  narrow-gauge  road  from  Gibson,  opposite  Fredericton,  to  Ednuindston, 
has  absorbed  all  the  lines,  but  one,  in  Western  New  Brunswick,  and  is 
now  a  standard-gauge  road  for  its  entire  length. 

It  reaches  all  the  cities  and  towns  in  the  St.  John  and  St.  Croix  valleys, 
and  has  direct  connection  with  the  Intercolonial  Railway  at  St.  John,  by 
means  of  the  great  steel  cantilever  bridge  over  the  Falls.  It  is  supplied 
with  new  rolling-stock,  and  now  in  point  of  comfort  and  the  excellence  of 
its  train  service  is  the  equal  of  any  road.  There  is  a  day  and  a  night 
Pullman  train  between  St.  John  and  the  West.  Tickets  can  be  i)urchased 
at  Boston  to  either  of  the  following  points  of  interest:  St.  John,  Frederic- 
ton, St.  Andrews,  St.  Stephen  and  Ca'ais,  Woodstock,  Grand  Falls,  and 
Fjlmundston.  The  Temiscouata  Railway,  in  operation  in  the  summer  of 
1888,  gives  a  through  route  from  Edmuiulston  to  the  St.  Lawrence  at 
Riviere  du  Loup,  whcure  the  traveller  may  go  by  rail  to  Quebec,  or  by 
eteamer  to  Tadousac,  Saguenay,  returning  to  Quebec. 


?50),  is  to 
incidental 

arper  and 

ons  relat- 

s  of  Nova 

ihe  Sague- 

principal 
Provincial 
Surveyor- 


to  chan{?e 
of  sailing, 
X  newsjia- 
iven  liere- 
t;-  to  their 

I  less  upon 
caniinatiou 
Lrunks  and 
•  too  many 
i  tourist  to 
e. 
willing  to 
ore  remote 
y  disposed 

originally 
[nuindston, 
Ick,  and  is 

|x  valleys, 
John,  by 
|s  supplied 
:ellence  of 
id  a  night 
lliurchased 
Frederic- 
iFalls,  and 
lummer  of 
kvrence  at 
[ec,  or  by 


IIOUTES     FROM    BOSTON    TO    THE    MARITIME 

PROVINCES. 


1.     By  Railway. 

The  Boston  cf  Maine  and  Maine  Central  Railroad  Lines  form  the  usual 
mode  of  aiiproaeh  b}'  land.  Their  trains  leave  the  terminal  station  in 
lM)s.ti)n,  and  riui  through  to  Bangor  without  change  of  cars.  I'ulinian 
cars  are  attacliod  to  the  tlirough  trains,  and  tickets  are  sold  to  nearly  all 
points  in  the  Kastern  Provinces.  At  Bangor  passengers  change  cars,  but 
remain  in  tlie  hands  of  tlic  .Maine  Central  until  Vauctlxiro  at  the  interna- 
tional boundary  is  reached,  where  the  rails  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Rail- 
way begin.  Bt-tween  Boston  and  Portland  this  route  traverses  a  peculiarly 
interesting  country,  with  frequent  glimpses  of  the  sea;  but  the  country  be- 
tween Bangor  and  St.  John  is  almost  devoid  of  attractions,  being  for  the 
most  part  through  the  forest,  until  Westdeld  is  reached.  For  the  last  20 
M.  there  are  many  beautiful  views  over  the  St.-Jolm  Kiver. 

"The  Flying  Yaidvee"'  train  makes  the  run  from  Boston  to  St.  John 
(448  M.)  in  14  hours,  leaving  Boston  at  8  A.  m.  bv  the  Boston  &  Maine 
Kailro.'.d,  and  reaching  St.  John  at  10  P.  M.,  and  Halifax  at  9.30  A.  M.,  next 
day.  'J'he  Provincial  Express  morning  train  from  Boston  to  St.  John  has 
through  cars,  without  change  at  Bangor. 

The  New-Brunswick  Division  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  also  con- 
nects with  the  Maine  Central  system,  and  runs  through  trains  from  St. 
John  to  Montreal,  across  the  State  of  Maine,  by  way  of  Mattawamkeag 
and  the  Moosehead-Lake  region. 

2.    By  Steamship. 

The  International  Steamship  Company  despatches  vessels  three  times 
weekly  from  June  15  to  October  1,  leaving  Connnercial  Wharf,  Boston,  at 
8.30  A.M.,  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday.  They  touch  at  Portland, 
wliiih  is  left  at  5  p.  m.  ;  and  afterwards  they  run  along  the  Mnine  <'n,i-«. 
calling  at  Eastport  the  next  morning,  and  traversing  Passamaquoddy  Bay. 
They  reach  St.  John  in  the  afternoon.  Fares,  — from  Boston  to  Eastport, 
$4;  to  St.  John,  S4.50.  Another  stanch  vessel  of  this  line  plies  regularly 
between  Boston,  Digby,  and  Annapolis  (22  hours  at  sea). 

The  Yarmouth  Steainshi])  Co.  aft'ords  the  most  convenient  route  to  visit 
the  famous  hunting  and  fishing  grounds  of  the  western  counties  of  Nova 
Scotia.  Their  steamships  leave  Lewis  W^harf.  Boston.  Tuesday  and  Fri- 
day, for  Yarmouth,  giving  an  exhilarating  voyage  of  17  hours  across  the 
open  sea. 


i. 


;t 


\'k 


V 

1  I*: 


l'\ 


! 

It 


12       FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  MARITIME  PROVINCES. 

The  nnufnn,  TfnIifnT,  nvcl  Prhwe  F.rlwnrd  hlnnd  Sfrnwftfiip  Line  de- 
ppatcli  voHstils  tioin  Lewis  Wharf,  Rusttin,  Wodncsduy  noonc.  After 
ivacliinj;  Halifax  these  steaiiishii)s  run  N.  E.  along  the  N»»va-Si'otia  foast, 
round  Cape  Canso,  and  traverse  the  picturesque  Gut  of  Canso.  They  call 
at  I'ic'tou  and  then  run  across  to  Charlottetown.  Hy  leaving  the  vessel  at 
l*ort  Hawkesbury,  the  tourist  can  easily  reacii  the  Rras  d'Or  and  other 
parts  of  the  island  of  Cape  Hreton.  These  vessels  connect  at  Halifax  with 
♦  he  7-ailways  for  Windsor,  etc.,  and  the  Newfoundland  steamships;  and 
Port  Ilawkcshnry  with  the  Bras  d'Or  steamers  and  the  Cape-Breton  Rail- 
way;  and  at  Pictou  with  the  steamships  of  the  Quebec  S-  S.  Co.,  for  Que- 
bec and  Montreal. 

3.     Routes  bij  way  nf  Montreal  and  Quebec. 

Mnnfreal  may  he  reaclied  by  eitlier  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.,  the  Mon- 
treal &  Boston  Air  Line  (Rassumpsic  R.  R.),  or  the  Boston  &  Maine  (Lowell 
Div.)  Grand  Trunk  Lines.  These  routes  are  all  described  in  New  England: 
a  Handboolcfor  Travellers.  The  most  picturesque  route  from  Quebec  to 
the  Maritime  Provinces  is  by  the  vessels  of  the  Quebec  Steamship  Company, 
which  leave  every  week  for  the  eastern  ports  of  Quebec  and  Nova  Scotia, 
connecting  with  the  local  lines  of  travel.  The  Intercolonial  Railway  extends 
around  from  (iuebcc  to  St.  John  and  Halifax. 

The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  runs  from  St.  John,  N.  B.,  to  Mon- 
treal, 481  M.,  in  17^  hours.  The  train  leaving  St.  John  at  3  p.  m.  reaches 
Moosehead  Lake  at  11.15,  Magog  at  5.30  A.  M.,  and  Montreal  at  8. 3^5 
A.  M.  It  follows  the  New-Brunswick  Division  to  Vanceboro,  and  the 
Maine  Central  to  Mattawamkeag,  and  then  traverses  the  lonely  and  rugged 
wilderness  of  Maine  for  144  M.,  entering  the  Province  of  Quebec  near  Lako 
Megantic.  At  Lennoxville,  connection_is  made  with  the  Passumpsic  line; 
and  at  Sherbrooke  the  Quebec  Central  is  met. 

The  Quebec  Central  Railway  runs  N.  from  Sherbrooke  along  the  St. 
Francis  River  and  by  Lake  Aylmer  and  Black  Lake,  and  the  famous  as- 
bestos mines  of  Tring.  Thence  it  reaches  the  Chaudiere  Valley,  and  de- 
scends to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

4.     Newfoundland. 

Passengers  botnid  for  the  remoter  East,  for  Newfoundland  or  Labrador, 
will  find  the  best  accommodations  on  the  steamships  of  the  Allan  Line, 
■which  run  from  Halifax  and  Baltimore  to  St.  John's,  N.  F.  (and  thence 
to  Liverpool,  etc.).  The  smaller  vessels  of  the  Red-Cross  Line  (from  New 
York)  also  run  to  St.  John's. 


i 


i 
1^ 


Further  particnlars  about  these  lines  and  their  accommodations,  the  days 
on  which  they  depart  for  Boston,  etc.,  may  be  found  in  their  adveriise- 
raents,  which  are  grouped  at  the  end  of  the  book.  There,  also,  may  be 
found  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  agents  of  the  lines,  from  whom  other 
information  may  be  obtained,  by  letter  or  by  persona',  application.  The 
main  question  for  the  summer  tourist  will  naturally  be  whether  he  shall 
?o  eastward  bv  rail  or  by  a  short  see 


ES. 


i"/)  Line  de- 
onf.  After 
H'otia  coast, 
They  cull 
he  vessel  at 
r  and  other 
lalifax  with 
iiships;  and 
Breton  Rail- 
Jo.,  for  Que- 


MARITIME-PROVINCES  HANDROOK. 


R.,  the  Mon- 
aiiie  (Lowell 
iw  Enf/land: 
n  Quebec  to 
ip  Company, 
Nova  Scotia, 
way  extends 

B.,  to  Mon- 
.  M.  reaches 
real  at  S.'S^5 

iro,  and  the 
and  ruf^ged 

[c  near  Lako 
impsic  line; 

|ong  the  St. 

famous  as- 

[ey,  and  de- 


|r  Labrador, 
Lllan  Line, 
md  thonce 

[(from  New 


^s,  the  days 
adverlise- 

ko,  may  be 

rhom  other 
tion.    The 

Ir  he  shall 


NEW   BRUNSWICK. 

The  Province  of  New  Brunswick  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
North  Temperate  Zone,  and  is  bounded  by  Maine  and  Quebec  on  the  W., 
Quebec  and  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  on  the  N.,  the  Gulf  of  St  Lawrence  and 
the  Northumberland  Strait  on  the  E.,  and  Nova  Scotia  and  the  Bay  of 
Ftmdy  on  the  S.  It  is  140  M.  lonj?  from  E.  to  VV,,  and  190  M.  from  N.  to 
S.,  and  contains  27,105  square  miles.  'lUie  direct  coast-line  (exclusive  of 
indentations)  is  410  M.,  which  is  nearly  equally  divided  between  the  S. 
and  E.  shores,  and  is  broken  by  many  fine  harbors.  The  Bay  of  Fundy 
on  the  S.,  and  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  on  the  N.,  are  of  j^reat  size  and  com- 
mercial importance, — the  former  being  140  M.  hms^  by  30-50  M.  wide; 
the  latter  boiiiji:  00  M.  lonir  l)y  10  -  23  M.  wide.  The  fisheries  in  the  great 
bays  and  in  the  Gulf  are  of  immense  value,  employing  many  thousand 
men,  and  attracting  large  American  fleets.  They  have  furnished  suste- 
nance to  the  people  of  the  maritime  counties,  and  have  been  the  occasion 
of  developing  a  race  of  skilful  mariners.  During  the  past  50  years  6,000 
vessels  have  been  built  in  this  Province,  valued  at  nearly  $80,000,000. 
The  lumber  business  is  conducted  on  a  vast  scale  on  all  the  rivers,  and 
the  product  amounts  to  several  million  dollars  a  year. 

The  country  is  generally  level,  and  is  crossed  by  low  ridges  in  the  N. 
and  W.  There  are  numerous  lakes,  whose  scenery  is  generally  of  a  sombre 
and  monotonous  character.  The  interior  is  traversed  by  the  rivers  St. 
John,  Restigouche,  Miramichi,  Petitcodiac,  Nepisiguit.  and  Richibucto, 
which,  with  their  numerous  tributaries,  afford  extensive  facilities  for  boat- 
navigation.  The  river-fisheries  of  New  Brunswick  are  renowned  for  their 
variety  and  richness,  and  attract  many  American  sportsmen. 

There  are  14,000,000  acres  of  arable  land  in  the  Province,  a  great  por- 
tion of  which  has  not  yet  been  brought  into  cultivation.  The  intervale'^ 
of  the  rivers  contain  60,000  acres,  and  are  very  rich  and  prolific,  being 
fertilized  by  annual  inundations.  The  chief  agricultural  products  are 
wheat,  buckwheat,  barley,  oats,  potatoes,  butter,  and  cheese  ;  but  farming 
operations  are  still  carried  on  in  an  antiquated  and  unscientific  manner. 

The  climate  is  less  inclement  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy  than  farther  inland. 
The  mean  temperature  for  the  last  ten  years  at  St.  .John  was,  for  the 
winter,  17^^°;  spring,  37^*;  summer,  58°;  autumn,  44§''.     The  thermom- 


Ui 


u 


NEW   nRtJNSWrcK. 


fter  ranges  between  -  22'  and  87"  as  the  extremes  innrketl  during  tlic 
past  ten  years. 

The  present  domain  of  New  Brunswick  was  formerly  occupied  by  two 
distinct  nations  of  Indians.  Tiic  Micmacs  were  an  oflVhoot  of  the  Al^on- 
quin  race,  and  inliabite(i  all  the  sea  shore  rc<rions.  They  were  powerful 
and  hardy,  and  made  daring  l)oafmen  aufl  ri>herinen.  Tiie  Milicetes  were 
from  the  Huron  nation,  and  inhabited  the  St.  .John  valley  and  the  inland 
forests,  being  skilful  in  hunting  and  iill  manner  of  woodcraft.  They  were 
less  numerous  and  warlike  than  the  Micmacs.  Both  tribes  had  a  simple 
and  beautiful  theology,  to  which  was  attached  a  multitude  of  quaint 
mythological  legends. 

This  region  was  included  in  the  ancient  domain  of  Acadie  (or  Acadia), 
which  was  granted  to  the  Sieur  I)e  Monts  l)y  King  Henri  IV.  of  France, 
in  1603.  De  Monts  exi)lored  the  St.  .John  River,  and  planted  an  ephemeral 
colony  on  the  St.  ('mix,  in  1604.  From  WSh  until  164..  .he  St.  .John  River 
was  the  scene  of  the  feudal  wars  between  La  Tour  ami  Charnisay.  Oliver 
Cromwell  sent  an  expedition  in  1654,  which  occupied  the  country;  but 
it  was  restored  to  France  by  Charles  II.  in  1670.  After  the  war  of  1689- 
97,  this  region  was  again  confirmed  to  France,  and  its  VV.  boundary  was 
located  at  the  St.  George  River,  W.  of  Penobscot  Bay.  ^leantime  the 
shores  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  had  been  set- 
tled by  the  French,  between  10.39  and  1672.  The  New-Englanders  invaded 
the  Province  in  170.'3,  and  in  1713  Acadia  \  :  <  ceded  to  England. 

The  French  limited  the  cession  to  Nova  Scotia,  and  fortified  the  line  of 
the  I\Iissigu!tsh  River,  to  protect  the  domains  to  the  N.  In  1755  a  naval 
expedition  from  Boston  took  these  forts,  and  also  the  post  at  St.  .John; 
and  in  1758  the  whole  Province  was  occupied  by  Anglo-American  troops. 
In  1763  it  was  surrendered  to  England  by  the  Treaty  of  Versailles. 

The  Americans  made  several  attacks  on  northern  Acadia  during  the 
Revolutionary  War,  but  were  prevented  from  holding  the  country  by  the 
British  fleets  at  Halifax.  At  the  close  of  the  war  many  thousands  of 
American  Loyalists  retired  from  the  United  States  to  this  and  the  adjoin- 
ing countries.  In  1784  New  Brunswick  was  organized  as  a  Province, 
having  been  previously  dependent  on  Nova  Scotia;  and  in  1788  the  capi- 
tal was  established  at  Fredericton.  Innnigration  from  Great  Britain  now 
commenced,  and  the  forests  began  to  give  way  before  the  lumbermen,  lii 
1839  the  Province  called  out  its  militia  on  the  occasion  of  the  boundary 
disputes  Avith  Maine;  and  in  1861  it  was  occupied  with  British  troops  ou 
account  of  the  possibility  of  a  war  with  the  United  States  about  the  Trtnt 
affair.  In  1865  New  Brunswick  refused,  by  a  popular  vote,  to  enter  the 
Dominion  of  Canada,  but  it  accepted  the  plan  the  next  year,  and  became 
a  part  of  the  Dominion  in  1867. 

The  population  of  New  Brunswick  was  74,176  in  1824,  154,000  in  1840. 
285,777  in  1871,  and  321, 233  in  1881. 


tnarkeil  during  the 

?rly  occupied  by  two 
flshoot  of  tho  Alpon- 
TIk'V  wore  powerful 
The  Milicftps  were 
:alley  mid  the  inltind 
lodcnift.  Thoy  were 
I  tril)e<>  had  n  simple 
irmltitude  of  quaint 


Acadie  (or  Acndin), 
Henri  IV.  of  France, 
planted  an  ephemeral 
4o  .he  St.  .John  River 
(i  Charnisay.  Oliver 
ed  the  country;  but 
>or  the  war  of  1689- 
its  VV.  boundary  was 
Bay.  ^Meantime  the 
wrence  had  been  ?et- 
/-Eiighinders  invaded 
o  England, 
fortified  the  line  of 
N.  In  1755  a  naval 
post  at  St.  John; 
o-Ameriean  troops. 
Versailles. 
Acadia  during  the 
the  country  by  the 
many  thousands  of 
lis  and  the  adjoin- 
zed  as  a  Province, 
id  in  17F8  the  capi- 
Great  Britain  now 
le  lumbermen.  In 
n  of  the  boundary 
1  British  troops  on 
es  about  the  Tnnt 
vote,  to  enter  the 
year,  and  became 


le 


)1 


tl 


,  154,000  in  1840. 


Il 


f 


ST.  JOHN. 


Route  1.     15 


1.   St.  John. 


Arrival  from  the  Sea.  —  Soon  nfter  passinsr  Xegro  FTeRd,  the  steamer  runs 
in  l)v  l',irtriili;t  hand,  the  round  ainl  roi-ky  guard  of  tlie  harbor  of  St.  .John  Its 
prt'fipitous  sides  are  seamed  with  deep  clefts  and  narrow  chasms,  and  on  the  upland 
are  st-en  the  Quarantine  Hospital,  the  buildings  of  the  steam  fog-horn  and  the  light- 
house, and  the  ruins  of  a  cliff  battery.  On  the  1.  is  the  bold  headland  of  IVfumtoiLUt 
Point,  crowned  by  dilapid  ited  earthworlis.  The  course  now  leads  in  by  the  IJeacon- 
light  (I.  side),  with  the  Martello  Tower  on  Carleton  Heights,  and  the  high-placed 
.  St.  Jude'a  Church  on  the  I.  In  front  are  the  green  slopes  and  barracks  of  the  Mili- 
tary Grounds,  beyond  which  are  the  populous  hills  of  St,  .lohn. 

Hotels.  —  The  Royal  Hotel,  on  King  Street,  and  the  Hotel  Dufferin,  at  the  cor- 
ner of  King  Square  and  Charlotte  Street,  are  comfortable  houses,  charging  $3-3.50 
a  day.  The  New  Victoria  is  on  Princess  Street.  The  Clifton,  Victoria,  and  Clar- 
endon are  smaller  houses. 

Amuseinentft.  —  Theatrical  performances  and  other  entertainments  are  fre- 
quently given  at  the  handsome  new  Music  Hall,  on  Union  Street.  Lectures  and 
concerts  are  given  in  the  hall  of  the  Mechanica'  Institute,  near  the  head  of  Qermain 
:reet. 

Keartina:- Rooms. —  The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  on  Charlotte 
[St.,  near  King  Si)uare ;  open  from  9  A.  M.  until  10  p  M.  The  Mechanics'  Institute, 
[near  the  head  of  Germain  St.,  has  an  extensive  variety  of  British  papers  on  file. 

Carriages.  —  For  a  course  within  the  city,  30c.  for  one  passenger,  10c.  for  e»cii 
[additional  one.  For  each  half-hour,  50c.  If  the  river  is  crossed  by  ferry  the  pas- 
[eenger  pays  the  toll,  which  is,  for  a  double  carriage,  15c.  each  way. 

Street-Cars  run  from  Market  Square  through  Dock  and  Mill  Sts.,  to  the  ter- 
[minus  of  the  river  steamboat-liues,  at  Indiantown  ;  and  to  Reed's  Point  and  else- 
[where. 

Railways.  —  The  New-Brunswick  Division  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway 
Iruns  W.  to  Van' eboro  (92  M.),  connecting  for  all  points  in  Maine,  and  for  Boston 
land  New  York,  and  also  for  Quebec,  Montreal,  and  the  West.  It  also  connects  up 
Ithe  St. -.John  Valley,  by  way  of  Fredericton,  with  the  St. -Lawrence  Valley;  and 
|down  the  St. -Croix  Valley,  with  St.  Stephen  and  St  Andrews.  The  Shore  Line 
runs  to  St.  Stephen  direct.  The  Intercolonial  Railway  runs  E.  to  Shediac,  Truro, 
md  Halifax  (276  M.),  and  to  Quebec. 

Steamships.  —  The  International  Steamship  Com- 

Ipany  de-*p:it(;»  their  .soa- worthy  vessels  from  St.  .Tohn  for  Boston,  touching  at  Kast- 

Iport  and  Portland,  and  connecting  with  steamers  for  St.  Andrews,  St.  Stephen, 

Cilais,and  Grand  Manan.     In  Jan.  and  FcJ).  they  leave  St.  .John  on  Thursdays; 

from  March  to  July,  and  from  Sept.  22  to  .Inn  ,  they  leave  on  IMondays  and  Thurs- 

[rlay.?  ;  and  .July,  Aug.,  and  early  Sept.,  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday.     Sail- 

Mg  time, 7.25a.m.  Fare  to  Boston ,.•$  4.50.     Time,  St.  John  to  Eastport,  4  hrs.  ;  to 

'ortland,  1.1  irs. ;   to  Boston,  27  hrs.     The  Annapolis  steamers  cro.ss  the  Bay  of 

Fundy  to  Digby  aijd  Annapolis  several  times  weekly,at7.30A.M., connecting  at  An- 

Jnapolis  with  the  railway  for  Halifax. 

The  steamers  of  the  Union  Line  leare  Indiantown  daily  at  9  A.  M.,  for  Frederic- 
ton  and  the  intermediate  bindings. 

Steamboats  leave  St  John  for  Washademoak  Lake,  Grand  Lake,  and  Belle  Isle  Bay 
(Hatfield's  Point) ;  for  Spencer's  Island,  Parrsboro  Pier,  King-sport,  and  Hantsport, 
an  the  Basin  of  Minas,  every  Thursday  ;  for  Weymouth,  N.  S.,  every  Wednesday  ; 
for  Eastport,  Campobello,  and  Grand  Manan,  every  Tuesday ;  tor  Eastport,  Bar 
Harbor,  and  New  York,  every  Tuesday  ;  for  Eastport,  Rockland,  Cottage  City  (Maso.), 
md  New  York,  every  Tuesday. 

The  Carleton  ferry -steamers  leave  the  foot  of  Prince.ss  St.  every  15  minutes_until 
!  9.30  P.M.     Fare,  3c.;  for  one-horse  carriages,  9c.;  for  two-horse  carriages,  15  c. 

The  Clifton  makes  trips  from  Indiantown  to  Muss  Glen,  Olit'Cou,  and  Hampton, 
up  the  beautiful  Kennebecasis  (see  pages  22  and  71). 


.,^ 


16       Route  1. 


ST.  JOHN. 


i 


St.  John,  the  chief  city  of  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick  and  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  occupies  a  commanding 
position  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John  Uiver.  From  its  favorable  situation 
for  the  purposes  of  commerce  it  has  been  termed  "the  Liverpool  of 
Canada."  The  ridge  upon  which  St.  John  is  built  is  composed  of  solid 
rock,  through  which  streets  have  been  cut  at  great  expense ;  and  the  plan  of  i  he 
streets  is  regular,  including  a  succession  of  rectangular  squares.  The  city 
is  one  of  the  chief  ship-owning  ports  of  the  British  Empire,  and  aspires  to 
be  the  winter-port  of  Canada.  It  has  45,000  inhabitants  in  the  South  End 
(old  St.  John),  the  North  End  (formerly  '^ortland),  and  the  West  Side  (Carle- 
ton).  Lieut.-Gov.  Sir  Leonard  Tilley  dwells  in  Carleton  House.  Among 
the  more  noticeable  modern  buildings  are  the  Wesleyan  "Cathedral"  and 
the  Queen-Square  Church;  St.  Andrew's,  on  the  site  of  the  Old  Kirk,  and 
St.  David's,  Presbyterian  churches  with  fine  stained-glass  windows;  the 
handsome  stone  edifice  of  the  Union  Club,  on  Germain  Street;  and  the  In- 
tercolonial  Railway  station,  the  finest  in  Canada  east  of  Montreal.  The 
steel  cantilever  bridge,  over  the  falls  of  the  St.  John  River,  belongs  to  a 
company,  and  cost  over  $600,000.  Over  this  great  engineering  work  the 
railway  from  the  westward  enters  St.  John  and  the  Intercolonial  station. 
The  harbor  is  good,  and  is  kept  free  from  ice  by  the  high  tides  of  the  Bay 
of  Fundy  and  the  sweeping  current  of  the  St.  John  River.  It  is  usually 
well  filled  with  shipping,  and  the  shores  are  lined  with  wharves  and  mills. 
St.  John  has  41  churches,  4  banks,  and  4  daily  and  several  weekl}'  papers. 

King  Street  is  the  main  business  street  of  the  city,  and  runs  from  the 
harbor  across  the  peninsula  to  Courtenay  Bay.  All  the  principal  sho]i> 
are  on  this  street,  between  the  harbor  and  King  Square,  and  along  Prince 
William  St.,  which  intersects  it  near  the  water.  At  the  foot  of  the  street 
is  the  Market  Slip,  into  which  the  light  packet-boats  and  produce-vessels 
from  the  adjacent  rural  counties  bring  wood  and  provisions  for  the  use 
of  the  city.  At  low  tide,  these  vessels  are,  for  the  most  part,  left  to 
hold  themselves  up  on  the  muddy  flats.  At  this  point  landed  the  weary 
and  self-exiled  American  Loyalists,  in  1783,  and  founded  the  city  of  St. 
John.  The  rather  dreary  breadth  of  King  St.  is  occupied  in  its  lower 
part  by  wagoners  and  unemployed  workmen.  From  this  point  the  street 
ascends  a  steep  hill,  passing  the  chief  retail  shops,  and  several  banks  and 
hotels,  with  numerous  fine  buildings  on  the  rebuilt  district.  King  Square 
is  an  open  space  of  about  3  acres  in  area,  studded  witli  trees,  and  adorned 
in  the  centre  with  a  fountain.  Before  the  great  fire,  its  entrance  was 
adorned  with  a  pretentions  triumphal  arch,  erected  in  honor  of  Prince 
Arthur's  visit,  and  afterwards  utilized  for  sustaining  the  .f're-alarm  bell. 
The  City  Market  House  is  on  the  E.,  and  exhibits  the  products  of  this 
region  on  well-arranged  stalls.  A  few  steps  N.  W.  of  the  Square  (on 
Charlotte  St.)  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian 
Association,  containin;^  a  large  hall,  gymnasium,  parlors,  and  class-rooms. 
The  library  and  reading-room  are  open  daily  (except  Sunday)  from  9  a.  m. 
to  10  p.  M.,  and  strangers  are  welcomed.    The  building  cost  $38,000,  and 


ST.  JOHN. 


RoxUe  1.       17 


runswick  and  the 
es  a  tomniandmg 
favorable  situation 
'  the   Liverpool  of 
composed  of  polid 
;  and  the  plan  of  the 
squares.  The  city 
pire,  and  aspires  to 
H  in  the  South  End 
e  West  Side  (Caric- 
n  House.    Amon^ 
"Cathedral"  and 
the  Old  Kirk,  and 
lass  windows;  the 
kreet ;  and  the  In- 
if  Montreal.     The 
Hiver,  belongs  to  a 
?ineering  work  the 
rercolonial  station, 
h  tides  of  the  Bay 
I'er.     It  is  usually 
vliarves  and  mills, 
fal  weekly  papers, 
md  runs  from  the 
principal  shoiis 
and  along  Prince 
bot  of  the  street 
produce-vessels 
ions  for  the  use 
lost  part,  left  to 
nded  the  weary 
d  the  city  of  St. 
)ied  in  its  lower 
s  point  the  street 
iveral  banks  and 
King  Square 
ees,  and  adorned 
ts  entrance  was 
lionor  of  Prince 
jf^re-alarm  bell. 
products  of  this 
Ithe  Square  (on 
lien's  Christian 
Ind  class-rooms, 
ky)  from  9  a.  m. 
tt  $  38,000,  and 


id 


but  subsequently 


'■^9 


Jdicaiea  in  i5<-,  out  sunsequentiy  gave  signs  of  instability,  and  has 
since  been  strengtliened  at  considerable  expense.  The  County  Court 
Hou.se  and  Jail  are  at  the  S.  E.  corner  of  King  Scpiare,  and  are  antiquated 
and  homely  .stone  Imildings.  To  the  E.  is  the  Old  liiiryinrj-Ground,  con- 
taining the  graves  of  the  pioneers  of  the  province,  with  epitaphs  in  many 
cases  ([uaint  and  interesting. 

Trinity  Cliurch  extends  from  Germain  St.  to  Charlotte  St.,  near  Prin-  ■ 
cess  St.,  and  is  the  finest  church-building  in  the  Maritime  Provinces,  being 
masvsively  constructed  of  gray  stone,  with  rambling  connections,  and  a 
very  striking  interior.  Occujiying  a  conspicuous  position  near  the  crest 
of  the  hill,  it  is  visible  for  a  great  distance.  The  hrst  church  on  this  site 
was  l)uilt  in  1788,  and  contained  nmral  tablets  and  tlie  Koval  Arms  from 
the  Old  State  House,  Boston,  brought  by  the  Loyalists  iu  1783.  Tliis 
venerable  building  was  destroyed  in  the  great  hre  of  1877.  Not  far  from 
Trinity  is  the  Masonic  Temple,  a  large  and  costly  new  edifice  of  brick. 
The  pul)lishing  house  of  the  McMillans  is  on  an  adjacent  street,  with  its 
priiiting-olHce  and  book-store. 

By  ascending  the  third  street  (Queen)  to  the  1.,  Qtiem  Square  is  reached, 
—  a  well-kept  park  surrounded  with  dwelling-houses.  A  short  dis- 
tance to  the  E.,  on  St.  Jauies  St.,  is  the  Wiggins  Mcde  Orphan  Institu- 
tion, a  building  in  Gothic  architecture,  of  red  and  gray  sandstone. 
It  is  the  most  elegant  and  symmetrical  structure  of  its  size  in  the  Prov- 
ince, and  cost  over  .S  100,000,  but  is  only  adequate  to  the  accommodation 
of  30  orphans.     The  Murine  Hospital  is  in  this  vicinity. 

A  sliort  walk  out  Sydney  St.  or  Caermartlien  St.  leads  to  the  Military 
Grounds,  on  the  extreme  S.  point  of  the  peninsula.  Here  is  a  spacious 
parade-ground,  which  is  now  used  only  by  the  cricket  and  base-ball  clubs, 
with  a  drill-shed  which  will  hold  2,000  soldiers.  These  grounds  Avere 
,  formerly  occupied  by  large  detachments  from  the  British  army,  whose 
officers  were  a  desired  acquisition  to  the  society  of  the  city,  while  the  mili- 
tary bands  amused  the  people  by  concerts  on  Queen  Square. 

Prince  William  Street  runs  S.  from  Market  Square  to  Reed's  Point,  and 
is  one  of  the  chief  thoroughfares  of  the  city,  containing  several  hotels  and 
some  of  tho  largest  shops.  Where  it  crosses  Princess  St.,  the  Carleton 
ferry  is  seen  to  the  r.  The  *  Post-Office  is  an  elegant  building  of  gray 
sandstone,  at  the  corner  of  Princess  St.  ;  opposite  which  is  the  new  City 
Hally  a  handsome  stone  building.  The  Savings  Bank,  the  Bank  of  New 
Brunswick,  and  other  institutions,  are  luxuriously  domiciled  in  this  vi- 
cinity. The  great  fire  of  1877,  which  destroyed  several  millions'  worth 
of  property  in  St.  John,  swept  this  district  clean,  and  many  elegant  new 
buildings  have  since  arisen.  The  *  Custom  House  is  of  creamy  Dorches- 
ter sandstone,  costing  S  250,000,  witli  iron  roofs  and  tire-proof  floors,  and 
two  tall  towers  for  the  time-ball,  the  shipping  signals,  and  the  storm- 
drum.  It  contains  several  of  the  provincio-national  offices,  and  a  storm- 
signal  station  which  receives  warnings  from  "Old  Probabilities"  at  Wash- 


18      Haute  1. 


ST.   JOH>T. 


!. 


7 


ington  and  Toronto,  Tlie  street  ends  nt  ReetVs  Point,  the  licadnnartors  of 
several  lines  of  cojistiiij^-.steainers,  whence  may  be  seen  the  Breakwater,  W. 
of  tlie  Military  Ground'-. 

At  the  N.  end  of  fJornniin  St.  is  the  old  Stone  Church,  a  sanrtunry  of 
the  EpiscopiiliiUis  under  the  invocation  of  St.  John.  Its  square  stone 
tower  is  visible  for  a  lono;  distance,  on  account  of  the  elevation  of  the  site 
on  which  it  stands.  Nearly  opposite  Is  the  brick  Calvin  Church  (Presby- 
terian); and  in  the  same  vicinity  is  the  classic  wooden  front  of  the  Me- 
chanics' Institute,  which  has  a  large  hall, 

The  reading-room  is  supplied  with  Canadian  and  British 
newspapers,  and  the  library  contains  about  7,000  volumes  (open  from  2^  to 
5  o'clock). 

The  Roman  Catholic  *  Cathedral  Is  situated  on  Waterloo  St.,  and  ii 
the  largest  church  in  the  Province.  It  is  constructed  of  marble  and  sand- 
stone, in  pointed  architecture,  and  has  a  tall  and  graceful  ^pire. 
The  interior  is  in  a  style  of  the  severest  simplicity,  the  Gothic  arches  of 
the  clere-story  being  supported  on  plain  and  massive  piers.  The  windows 
are  of  stained  glass,  and  are  very  brilliant  and  rich.  The  chancel  and 
transept  windows  are  largo  and  of  fine  design ;  a  rose  window  is  placed  over 
the  organ-loft;  and  the  side  windows  rejiresent  Saints  Bernard,  Dominic, 
Ambrose,  Jerome,  Mark,  Matthew,  Andrew,  Benedict,  Francis,  .lohn, 
Luke,  Augustine,  and  Gregory.  The  building  is  200  ft.  long,  and  110  ft. 
wide  at  the  transepts.  The  Bi6hop''s  Palace  is  the  fine  sandstone  building 
towards  Clilf  St.,  beyond  which  is  the  extensive  building  of  the  Orphan 
Asylum,  fronting  on  Cliff  St.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Cathedral  is  the 
plain  brick  building  of  the  Nunnery.  The  visitor  should  notice,  over  the 
Cathedral  portal  adjacent  to  the  Nunnery,  the  great  marble  bas-relief  of 
the  Last  Supper  (after  Leonardo  Da  Vinci's  painting  at  Jlilan). 

From  this  point  Waterloo  St.  descends  to  the  JIarsh  Bridge,  at  the  head 
of  Courtenay  Bay.  By  ascending  Cliff  St.  for  a  short  distance,  a  point 
may  be  reached  from  which  are  seen  the  Valley,  with  its  churches  and 
streets,  and  the  embowered  villas  on  Mount  Pleasant,  over  which  Reed's 
Castle  is  prominent.  Noble  views  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy  and  the  St.  John 
Kiver  and  its  blue  highland  walls  are  gained  from  the  estate  of  Mr.  J.  Mur- 
ray Kay  (now  of  Brookline,  Mass.). 

The  General  Public  ffospiial  is  situated  on  a  bold  rocky  knoll  which 
overlooks  the  Marsh  Valley,  and  is  entered  from  Waterloo  St.  It  consists 
of  a  large  brick  building  and  accommodates  60  patients. 

The  structure  pertains  to  the  city,  and  was  erected  in  1865  at  a  cost  of 
$  54,000.  Directly  below  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  knoll  on  which  it  is 
built  is  the  broad  Marsh,  covered  with  houses,  and  extending  on  the  r. 
to  Courtenav  Bav  The  rpool'^"'ietfs  ^ntp^t^in  a  nlnnsihle  theorv  that  in 
remote  ages  the  St.  John  River  flowed  down  this  vallev  from  the  Kenne- 
becasis  to  the  sea,  until  finally  the  present  channel  through  the  Narrows 
was  opened  by  some  convulsion  of  nature. 


ST.  JOHN. 


Route  1. 


19 


iflfl'iai'tors  of 
akvvuter,  W. 

sanctuary  of 
iqnniT  stotie 
)n  of  the  site 
rch  (l'rcsl)y- 
t  of  the  Me- 

I  and  British 
en  from  2i  to 

10  St.,  and  is 
ble  and  sand- 
i  t^pire. 

hie  arches  of 
The  windows 
I  chancel  and 
is  placed  over 
ard,  Dominic, 
'rancis,  John, 
ig,  and  110  ft. 
stone  bnildinj; 
3f  the  Orphan 
ledral  is  the 
otice,  over  the 
e  bas-relief  of 

n). 

re,  at  the  head 

ance,  a  point 
churches  and 
which  Reed's 

the  St.  Jolin 
f  Mr.  J.  Mur- 

knoll  which 
,  It  consists 
IS  80  patients. 
5  at  a  cost  of 
on  which  it  is 
ling  on  the  r. 
heory  that  in 
m  the  Kenne- 
the  Narrows 


t 

I 


That  suburb  which  is  known  as  the  Valley  lies  between  the  rocky  hills 
of  the  city  proper  and  the  line  of  Mount  Pleasant.  It  is  reached  from 
Kiiij;  Square  by  Charlotte  and  Cobourg  Streets,  and  contains  the  tracks 
and  station  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway.  The  most  prominent  ol)ject  in 
the  Valley  is  St.  Paul's  Church  (Kpiscopal),  a  graceful  wooden  edifice  with 
tnmsei)ts,  a  clcro-story,  and  a  tall  sp  re.  The  windows  are  of  stained  glass. 
The  brick  church  of  St.  Stephen  and  th(>  Owen's  Art  .School  with  its  pic- 
ture-gallery are  also  situated  in  the  Valley,  and  the  road  to  Lily  Lake  di- 
verges to  the  r.  from  the  latter.  Farther  to  the  E.,  on  the  City  Road,  is 
the  Victoiia  Skadnrj  Rink,  a  round  wooden  building,  IGO  ft.  in  diameter, 
cftvered  .,  ith  a  domed  roof.  Lansdowne  Rink  and  the  Palace  Kink  are 
famous  resorts  for  curlers  and  skaters,  on  Charlotte  Street. 

The  site  of  St.  John  was  the  Menagwes  of  ancient  Miomac  tradition,  where  the 
divine  Olooscap  oiue  had  his  home,  llonce,  duriuji  liis  absence,  his  attendants 
were  carried  away  by  a  i)owerful  evil  magician,  wlio  tied  with  them  to  Grand  Manan, 
Cape  Breton,  and  Newfouiidlaiul,  wlien;  he  was  pursued  by  Olooscap,  who  rode 
mucli  of  the  way  on  tlie  backs  of  whales  which  'le  called  in  from  the  deep  sea. 
Piissing  througli  Cape  lireton,  he  at  lengtli  readied  the  dark  Newfoundland  shores, 
wliere  he  assumed  sucii  a  stature  that  tlie  clouds  rolled  about  his  head.  The  evil- 
doing  wizard  was  soon  found  and  put  to  death  and  the  servants  of  Olooscap  were 
eet  free. 

The  site  of  St.  John  was  discovered  by  Chaniplain  and  De  Monts,  on  St.  John's 
Day  (June  24),  I'JOl,  l)ut  was  not  occupied  for  30  years  after. 

Claude  de  la  Tour,  a  Huguenot  noble,  was  one  of  the  earliest  of  the  French  adven- 
turers in  this  region,  and  received  a  grant  of  all  Acadia  from  Charles  T.  of  England. 
After  his  repulse  and  humili;ition  (see  Route  25),  the  French  government  divided 
Acadia  into  three  i)r<ivinces,  placing  there  as  governors,  M.  Denys,  Razilly,  and  the 
young  and  chivalrous  ("liarles  de  St.  Estienne,  Lord  of  La  Tour  (sou  of  Claude), 
Denys  contented  hmirelf  with  the  ocean-fisheries  from  Canso  and  Cape  Breton, 
Razilly  soon  died,  leaving  his  domain  to  his  kinsman  Charles  de  Menou,Sleurd"Aul- 
nay  Charnisay,  who  was  also  related  to  Cardinal  Riclielieu.  D'Aulnay  and  L;i  Tour 
began  to  (juarrel  about  the  boundaries  of  their  jurisdictions,  and  the  former  em- 
ploye(t  a  powerful  influence  at  the  Court  of  France  to  aid  his  cause.  Louis  XIII. 
finally  ordered  him  to  carry  La  Tour  to  France,  in  chains,  and  open  war  ensued 
between  these  patrician  adventurers.  La  Tour  had  erected  a  fort  at  St.  John  ia 
h)Si,  whence  he  carried  on  a  lucrative  fur-trade  with  the  Indians.  In  1(543  this 
stronghold  was  attacked  by  D'Aulnay  with  six  vessels,  but  La  Tour  escaped  on  the 
ship  Clftnent,  leaving  his  garrison  to  hold  the  works,  lie  entered  Boston  Harbor 
with  140  Huguenots  of  La  Rochclle,  and  sought  aid  from  Massachusetts  against  the 
Catholic  forces  which  were  besieging  him.  The  austere  Puritans  referred  to  the 
Bible  to  see  if  they  could  find  any  precedent  for  such  action,  but  found  no  certain 
reopouse  from  that  onu-le.  "On  the  one  hand,  it  was  said  that  the  speech  of  the 
Proi)het  to  Jehoshaphat,  in  2d  Chronicles  xix.  2,  and  the  portion  of  Solomon's 
Proverbs  contained  in  chap,  xxvi,  17th  verse,  not  only  discharged  them  from  any 
obligation,  but  iictually  forbade  them  to  assist  La  Tour ;  while,  on  the  other  hand, 
It  was^  agreed  that  it  was  as  lawful  for  them  to  give  him  succor  as  it  was  for  Joshua 
to  aid  the  Oibeonites  against  the  rest  of  the  Canaanltes,  or  for  Jehoshaphat  to  aid 
Jehoram  against  Moab,  in  wliicii  expedition  Elishawas  present,  and  did  not  reprove 
the  King  of  Judah."  But  when  they  had  assured  themselves  that  it  would  be 
allowable  f.r  them  to  aid  the  distressed  nobleman,  they  .sent  such  a  fleet  that  D'Aul- 
na.\  's  forces  were  quickly  scattered,  and  the  siege  w  as  raised.  Two  years  later, 
while  La  Tour  was  absent,  D'Aulnay  again  attacked  the  fort,  but  was  handsomely 
repulsed  (with  a  loss  of  ;:i3  men)  by  the  little  garrison,  headed  by  Madame  I^a  Tour. 
Some  months  later  he  returned,  and  opened  a  regular  siege  on  the  iHmlward  side 
(the  fort  was  in  Carlotoji,  near  Navy  Island).  After  three  days  of  fighting  a  treach- 
erous Swis:s  sentry  admitted  the  enemy  into  the  works  ;  and  even  then  Madame  La 
Tour  led  her  troops  so  gallantly  that  the  victor  gave  her  her  own  terms.     These 


20       Route  1. 


ST.   JOHN. 


if 


terms,  however,  were  shntnefnily  violitterl,  and  the  parrison  was  masMpred  before 
her  face.  'I'liree  weeks  itt'tcrward,  slie  died  of  a  liro!<en  lieart  La  Tour  came  tiaek 
to  St.  .lohii  some  years  later,  and  fimiid  tliat  D'Aidiiny  was  dead,  wliereupon  he 
etfectuully  recaptunid  liis  olil  ddiuain  by  inarrsiii);  the  widow  of  tlie  coii(|vieror 
(lt).>3)  b'Auiiiay  died  in  Iti.'jO,  Imviii;;  spent  S(MI,(iiiO  livres  in  Acadia,  and  Imilt  5 
fortresses,  2  seminaries,  and  several  cluwelies.  Ho  iiad  several  sons,  all  of  whom 
entered  the  FiH'neh  army,  and  were  slain  in  the  service. 

In  1()!X>  a  sharp  enfrap-ment  took  place  in  St,  .John  harlior,  between  the  Frerirh 
frigate  Union  and  two  Knjxlish  vssels.  'l"he  former  had  entered  tlu!  harbor  bearing 
tlie  Chevalier  de  Villelion,  and  was  t«ke)i  at  a  disadvantaj;e.  After  a  severe  cannon- 
axle,  the  fJiiKin  hauled  down  her  cohirs.  Villelion  kiou  desccnilcd  the  river  with 
a  party  of  Indians  and  attacked  the  sliijis,  but  without  success.  In  ItOH.  v.hile  the 
(.'lievalier  de  Villelnin  j:;overned  Acadia  from  the  iipjier  St.  .Folin  ami  hurled  de- 
structive Indian  l)ands  upon  New  Knjiland,  Massachu.setts  sent  three  men-of-war  to 
blockads  the  mouth  of  the  river  and  cut  oil'  his  sniiidies.  They  were  soon  attacked 
by  DMberville's  French  friirates,  and  made  a  desperate  resistance.  Ihit  the  AV»<'- 
p(>rt,2i,  was  unable  to  withstand  the  heavy  fire  of  the  l^xi/oiif/,  anil  soon  lay  dis- 
masted and  ludpless.  After  her  surreudi'r  the- other  American  vessels  escaped 
u'nder  cover  of  a  thick  fojr.  Anew  fleet  from  Hoston  soon  afterwards  overhameil 
the  French  fri]j;ates,  cruisinjr  between  .Mount  Dc.M'rt  and  St.  John,  and  captured 
the  Pro  fond,  with  M.  de  Villelion,  the  Governor  of  Acadin,  on  board.  In  ITUl  the 
fort  of  St.  John  was  dismantled  by  liroixillan  :  but  in  1708  it  was  rebuilt,  and  had 
4  biustions  and  24  piec(!s  of  artillery 

In  July,  1749,  II  IJ  M.  sloop-of-war  Albany  onten'd  the  harbor  and  drove  away 
the  Fremdi  troop.-\  lowerinji  also  the  standard  of  France  The  fripates  Hound  and 
York  hatl  a  skirndsh  with  the  French  here  in  17")(),  and  were  ordered  out  of  the 
port  by  IJoishidiert,  the  commandant  of  the  fort.  In  17;"),  four  Uritish  war-ves.Mds 
entered  the  harbor,  and  the  French  jrarrison  demolished  (he  fort,  blew  up  the  mag- 
azines and  retreated  into  the  country.  In  1758  F'ort  La  Tour  was  still  garrisoned 
by  French  soldiers,  but,  after  a  short  sicjre  by  an  Anglo-American  force,  the  po.st 
wius  surn>ndei-ed  at  discretion,  'i'wo  years  Later,  the  jilace  wa.s  visited  by  Jame.s 
Sanonds,  an  adventnrous  New-Knglander,  wlio  was,  however,  soon  driven  away  by 
the  Indians,  "  Catholics  and  allies  of  France.'"  In  1764  he  returned  with  a  party 
of  Massachusetts  fishermen,  and  settled  on  the  present  ■^ite  of  the  city,  erecting  de- 
len.sivc  works  on  Portland  Heights,  jindcr  the  name  of  Fort  Howe.  In  1775  a  naval 
expedition  of  Americans  from  Jlachias  entered  the  harbor  and  destroyed  the  (dd 
French  fortifications  (then  called  Fort  F'n'derick),  com))leting  their  work  by  jdun- 
dering  and  bombarding  the  village.  May  18,  1783,  a  British  fleet  arrived  m  the 
port  bringing  5,0(10  of  the  self-styled  ''United  Fmjiire  Loyalists,"'  Americans  who 
Were  loyal  to  King  (horge  and  could  not  or  would  not  remain  in  the  new  Republic 
of  the  United  Stat_*s.  From  this  day  may  bo  dated  the  growth  of  tlie  city  of  St. 
John. 

New  Brunswick  was  sot  off  from  Nova  Scotia  as  a  separate  Province  the  next 
year,  and  in  1786  its  first  Legislative  Assembly  was  lonvened  here.  In  1787 
Trinity  Church  was  founded :  in  1788  harbor-lights  were  ec  tablished  on  Partridge 
Island,  and  in  1799  the  Royal  Gazette  was  started.  In  1837  one  third  of  the  com- 
mercial portion  of  the  city  was  burned,  involving  a  loss  of  £250,000.  During  the 
boundary  dispute  with  the  State  of  Maine  (1889-42)  the  citizens  were  all  enrolled 
and  drilled  in  nulitary  exercises,  in  preparation  for  a  war  on  the  borders.  Large 
fortunes  were  made  by  the  n.erchants  during  the  Crimean  war,  when  the  British 
timber-market,  which  had  depended  largely  on  the  Faltic  jiorts  for  its  sujiply,  was 
by  their  closing  fon  ed  to  draw  heavily  on  the  American  Provinces.  The  last  his- 
toric event  at  St.  John  was  its  occupatior ,  in  the  winter  of  1861,  by  several  of  the 
choicest  regiments  of  the  British  army,  among  which  were  the  firenadier  Guards, 
the  Scotch  Fusilier.-,  nnd  other  ilite  corps.  After  the  peaceful  solution  of  the  Trent 
affair  this  formidable  garrl.-oi;  wa,^  removed,  and  the  city  has  since  been  left  to 
prosper  in  the  f^rts  ot  peace  and  industry. 

"  Here  is  picturesque  St.  John,  with  its  couple  of  centuries  of  history  and  tradi- 
tion, its  commerces,  its  enterprise  felt  all  alon  the  coast  and  through  the  settle- 
ments of  the  territory  to  the  northea.st,  with  its  no  doubt  charming  .society  and 
solid  English  culture  ;  and  the  summer  tourist,  in  an  idle  mood  regarding  It  for 
a  day.  says  it  is  naught,"     (Warner's  Badfltrk.) 

St.  John  aspires  to  be  the  winter-port  of  the  Dominion,  and  the  Interco- 
lonial, Canadian  Pacific,  and  Grand  Trinik  lines  are  arranging  great  ter- 
minal facilities  here.  Halifax  is  an  enerjjetic  rival,  allliough  much  farther 
from  the  Upper  Provinces. 


ST.   JOHN. 


Route  1. 


21 


nnsjinciTd  before 
Tour  cniiK'  Jiark 
I,  wliorcuimn  he 
if  tliu  coiKiucror 
•adiii,  iiiiil  Imilt  5 
JUS,  all  of  whom 

ween  the  French 

leharhor  hciiriiig 

a  severe  cannon- 

(l  the  river  with 

:„  1)  9i;.  while  the 

I  ami  hnrled  tie- 
rce men-of-war  to 
(.■re  sdou  atta(  ked 
>.  Hut  the  A'M'- 
aml  soon  lay  dis- 

II  vessels  escaped 
wards  oviTlmined 
ihn,  and  eajitured 
,ard.  In  ITOl  the 
8  rebuilt,  and  had 

r  and  drove  away 
ijrates  Hound  and 
irdered  out  of  tlie 
British  war  vessels 
,  blew  up  the  maR- 
(is  still  garrisoned 
?an  force,  the  iiost 
<  visited  by  James 
bn  driven  away  by 
ned  with  a  party 
city,  erecting  de- 
In  1775  a  naval 
lestroyed  the  old 
.,  ir  work  by  plun- 
pet  arrived  in  the 
Americans  who 
the  new  Republic 
of  the  city  of  St. 

Province  the  next 
here.  In  1787 
died  on  Partridge 
third  of  the  com- 
,000.  During  the 
were  all  enrolled 
e  borders.  Large 
when  the  British 
ir  its  supf)ly,  was 
•es.  The  last  his- 
by  several  of  the 
irenadier  Guards, 
Mion  of  the  Trevt 
tince  been  left  to 

liistory  and  tradi- 

jrough  the  settie- 

Vning  .society  and 

regarding  it  for 

IkI  the  Interco- 
Iging  great  ter- 
Ih  much  farther 


St.  John.     1617. 


"To  the  winds  crive  onr  banner  I 

Hciir  hDiiR'w.iril  iiuiiiii  I  ' 
Cried  till-  Lord  i*  Acadia. 

<Jn,.(l  Ciiarlrs  of  Ksticnno  ; 
Floiii  tlu:  (irow  ot  liis  sliallop 

lie  L-ii/iil,  :is  til"'  sun, 
Friini  its  licil  ill  tlic  occnn, 

.Strcaincd  up  tiic  St.  .lolui. 

Ocr  the  liluc  western  waters 

'I'liat  sliallop  liad  pissrd. 
\Vlicre  the  mists  of  I'eiiubscot 

(  iuiif;  diiiip  on  ner  must. 
St.  Savior  had  looked 

O'l  t'ie  heretic  sail, 
As  the  SOUL'S  of  the  llupucnot 

Kosc  on  the  gale. 

The  pale,  L'hdstlv  f.i"  ?rn 

l{emenihered  her  wrll. 
Ami  had  cirsed  her  whde  passing, 

Witli  taper  nml  hell. 
But  thi'  men  of  Mouhegan, 

Of  I'apists  ahhoned, 
Had  welcomeil  and  feasted 

The  heretic  Lord. 

Thev  had  loaded  his  shallop 

With  dun-lish  and  liall, 
^Vith  stores  for  h's  larder, 

And  steel  for  his  wall. 
l'eme(i  lid,  from  lier  haslions 

.\nd  turrets  of  stone, 
Had  welcomed  his  connng 

With  banner  and  gun. 

And  the  iirayi'rs  of  the  elders 

Had  followed  his  w  av, 
As  lioniewaril  he  uliiled 

Down  Pentecost  Hay. 
O,  Well  sped  La   I'onr  ! 

For,  in  peril  and  pain, 
His  lady  kept  watch 

i'or  his  coming  again. 

O'er  the  Tslo  of  the  Pheasant 

'I'he  niornina  sun  shone. 
On  the  plane-trees  wliicli  shaded 

The  sliores  of  St.  .John. 
"  Now  why  from  yon  hattlcinents 

Speaks  not  my  lovo? 
A\  liv  waves  there  no  banner 

My  fortress  above?" 

Dark  and  wild,  from  his  deck 

St.  Lstienne  gazed  about, 
On  tire-wastc>l  dwellings, 

.\iid  silent  re(h)ubt  ; 
From  the  low  shattered  walls 

\V1  ich  the  llanio  had  o'errun, 
Tliore  tloated  no  h.inner, 

There  thundered  no  gun. 

But  beneath  the  low  arch 

(Jf  its  (hxn-way  there  stood 
A  pale  piiest  of"  Home, 

In  his  cloak  and  l.is  hood. 
With  the  hound  of  a  lion 

La  Tour  sprang  to  1  nd. 
On  the  throat  of  the  Piipist 

He  fastened  his  hand. 

"  Speak,  son  of  the  Woman 

Of  scarlet  and  sin! 
What  wolf  lias  Iicimi  prowling 

My  castle  within  ?  ' 
Froi'n  the  grasp  of  the  soldier 

'I'he  Jesuit  broke. 
Half  in  scorn,  half  in  sorrow, 

He  snuled  as  he  spoke  ; 


"  .\o  wolf,  I.ord  of  Esticnne, 

Has  ravagcil  tliv  hall. 
But  tliv  red-handed  lival, 

Witli  lire,  steel,  and  balll 
On  an  errand  tii  mercy 

i  hitherward  came. 
While  the  walls  of  Ihv  castlo 

Yet  spouted  with  llame. 

"  Pentagoet  s  dark  vessels 

Were  moored  in  the  bay, 
Grim  sia-lioiis,  roaring 

Alond  for  their  prey  1 " 
"  IJnt  wh.at  of  my  lady?" 

Cried  Charles  of  Ilsticnno. 
"On  the  shot-crnmbled  turret 

T'liy  lady  was  seen  : 

"  Half  veiled  in  the  smoke-cloud, 

Her  hand  gr.'isped  tli\-  pennon, 
While  her  dark  tressesswayed 

In  the  hot  breath  of  eann'oni 
But  woe  to  the  heretic, 

I)\t'rmore  woe ! 
When  the  son  of  the  church 

And  the  cross  is  his  foe ! 

"In  the  track  (d' the  shell, 

In  the  oath  of  the  bull, 
I'entngoet  swept  over 

Tlu?  breach  of  the  wall  I 
Steel  to  steel,  gun  to  gnn, 

<)ne  inoment,  —  and  then 
Alone  stood  the  victor, 

Alone  with  iiis  men! 

"  Of  its  sturdy  defenders, 

'I'hy  lady  alone 
Saw  the  cross-blizoned  banner 

I'loat  over  St.  John." 
"Let  the  dastard  liiok  to  it  1" 

Cried  fiery  Kstienne, 
"Were  1)  .Vnlnay  King  Louis, 

I  d  free  her  upuin  !" 

"  Alas  for  thy  lad v! 

No  service  from  thee 
Is  needed  by  her 

Whom  the  Lord  hath  set  free: 
Nine  days,  in  siern  silence, 

ller  thraldom  she  bore. 
But  the  tenth  nKuniiig  came. 

And  Death  opened  iier  door  !" 

As  if  suddenly  sndtten. 

La  Tour  staggered  back  ; 
His  hand  grasjicd  his  sword-hilt, 

His  forehead  grew  black. 
He  sprang  on  the  deck 

Of  his  shallo|i  again. 
"  W'e  cruise  now  {dv  vengeance  1 

Give  way  !  '  cried  Eslienne. 

"  Massachusetts  shall  liear 

Of  tne  IlngMcnot  s  wrcuig. 
And  from  island  and  creckside 

Her  Ushers  shall  throng: 
Pentasoet  shall  nie  . 

What  his  Papists  have  done, 
When  his  nalisr.des  echo 

The  Puritans  gun  :  ' 

O,  the  loveliest  of  heavens 

Hung  tenderly  o  f  r  him, 
Th'Te  were  waves  in  the  sunshine, 

And  grcH'u  isles  before  liiin 
But  a  pale  hand  was  beckoning 

The  Huguenot  on  • 
And  in  blackness  and  ashes 

Behind  was  St.  .Tnim 

Jon.N  G.  Whittier. 


r:-. 


22       Route  S.    THE  ENVIRONS  OF  ST.   JOHN. 

2.   The  Environs  of  St.  John. 

*  Lily  Lake  is  about  1  M.  from  Kinfj  Square,  nnd  is  renohed  by  cross- 
intr  till!  Vallcv  and  asocndiriff  Mount  Pleasant.  Tlie  road  winch  turns  to 
the  rif^lit  frou>  Owens  Art  Scliooi  conducts  past  several  villas  and  rural 
estates.  From  its  end  a  broad  path  diverges  to  the  r.,  leading  in  a  few 
minutes  to  the  lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  surrounded  by  high  rocky 
banks.  The  environs  are  thickly  studded  with  clumps  of  arbor-vita?  and 
evergreens,  among  which  run  devious  rambles  and  pathways.  No  houses 
or  otlier  signs  of  civilization  are  seen  on  the  shores,  and  the  citizens  wish 
to  preserve  this  district  in  its  ])rimitive  beauty  by  converting  it  into  a  pub- 
lic park.  The  water  is  of  rare  j)urity,  and  was  used  for  several  ye-irs  to 
supply  the  city,  being  pumped  up  by  expensive  machinery.  This  is  a 
favorite  place  for  skating  early  in  the  season,  and  at  that  time  presents  a 
scene  of  great  activity  and  interest.  A  pleasant  pathway  leads  on  one 
side  to  the  Lily  Lake  Falls,  which  are  attractive  in  time  of  high  wator. 

The  Marsh  Koad  is  the  favorite  drive  for  the  citizens  of  St.  John,  and 
presents  a  busy  scene  on  pleasant  Sundays  and  during  the  season  of  bleigh- 
ing.  It  is  broad,  firm,  and  level,  and  follows  the  (supposed)  ancient  bed 
of  the  St.  John  River.  At  1^  M.  from  the  city  the  Rural  Cemetery  is 
reached  (only  lot-owners  are  admitted  on  Sunday).  This  is  a  pleasant 
ground  occupying  about  12  acres  along  a  cluster  of  high,  rock}-  knolls, 
and  its  roads  curve  gracefully  through  an  almost  unbroken  forest  of  old 
(but  small)  evergreen  trees.  The  chief  point  of  interest  is  along  Ocean 
Avenue,  where  beneath  uniform  monuments  are  buried  a  large  number 
of  sailors.  1^  M.  beyond  the  Cemetery  the  Marsh  Road  passes  the  Three- 
Mile  House  and  Moosepath  Park,  a  half-mile  course  which  is  much  used 
for  horse-racing,  especially  during  the  month  of  August.  3  -  4  M  farther 
on  (with  the  Intercolonial  Railway  always  near  at  hand)  the  road  reaches 
the  Torryburn  House,  near  the  usual  course  for  boat-racing  on  the  broad 
Kennebecasis  Bay.  The  course  of  this  estuary  is  now  followed  for  2  M., 
with  the  high  cliflf  called  the  Minister'' s  Face  on  the  farther  shore.  Pass- 
ing several  country-seats,  the  tourist  arrives  at  Rothesay,  prettily  situated 
on  the  Kennebecasis.  This  village  is  a  favorite  place  of  summer  residence 
for  families  from  the  city,  and  has  numerous  villas  and  picnic  grounds. 
The  fi'.cilities  for  boating  and  bathing  are  good.  Near  the  railwav  station 
is  Rothesay  Hall,  a  summer  hotel,  accommodating  30-40  guests  ($8-10 
a  week).  There  are  pleasant  views  from  this  point,  including  the  broad 
and  lake-like  Kennebecasis  for  many  miles,  the  palisades  of  the  Minister's 
Face,  and  the  hamlet  of  Moss  Glen. 

Loch  Lomond  is  about  11  M.  N.  E.  of  St.  John,  and  is  a  favorite  resort 
for  its  citizens.  Many  people  go  out  to  the  lake  on  Saturday  and  remain 
there  until  Monday  morning.  The  road  crosses  the  Marsh  Rrfdge  and 
passes  near  the  Silver  Falls,  a  pretty  cascade  on  Little  River  ( whence  the 


THE  ENVIRONS  OF  ST.   JOHN.     Rmite  2.      23 


nchpfl  by  cross- 
which  turns  to 
villas  and  rural 
leiidlng  in  a  few 
(1  by  liif^ii  rocky 
'  arbor-vita?  and 
lys.     No  liouses 
he  citizens  wish 
ng  it  into  a  pub- 
several  years  to 
lery.    This  is  a 
time  presents  a 
ly  leads  on  one 
fhigh  watPr. 
of  St.  John,  and 
season  of  sleigh- 
sed)  ancient  bed 
iral  Cemetery  is 
lis  is  a  pleasant 
jh,  rocky  knolls, 
»ken  forest  of  old 
is  along  Ocean 
a  large  nunil)er 
[isses  the  Three- 
h  is  much  used 
3  -  4  M  farther 
he  road  reaches 
ig  on  the  broad 
llowed  for  2  M., 
sr  shore.     I'ass- 
rettily  situated 
Immer  residence 
Ipicnic  grounds, 
railway  station 
guests  ($8-10 
iding  the  broad 
if  the  Minister's 

favorite  resort 
lay  and  remain 
Ish  Brfdge  and 
ler  ( whence  the 


city  drnwR  Its  water  supply).  There  nro  two  small  hotels  near  Loch 
liomond,  of  which  P.unkt'r's  is  at  the  lowerendaml  DalzcH's  is  3-4  M.  be- 
yond, or  near  the  head  of  M-  First  Lake.  These  waters  are  much  re- 
sorted  to  by  tHMit-tishcrs,  and  the  white  trout  that  are  found  nearDalzell's 
Lake  House  are  consitleretl  a  deliciicy.  Boats  and  tackle  are  furnished 
at  the  hotels;  and  tlicre  is  good  shooting  in  the  vicinity.  The  shores  con- 
sist, for  the  most  part,  of  low  rolling  hills,  covered  with  forests.  The  First 
L:ike  is  4  X  ^  M.  in  area,  and  is  connected  by  a  short  stream  with  the 
Second  Liiko,  whicli  is  nearly  2  ^L  long,  and  very  narrow.  The  Third 
Lake  is  sniidler  than  either  of  \\w  others. 

"  An  I'levatfil  ri(l>?t'  of  hard-wood  land,  over  which  the  road  passes  n«ar  ttie  nar- 
rowt'st  pJirt,  allbnlcil  mo  f'nmi  its  summit  a  view  of  the  lower  lake,  which  would  not 
sutftT  in  eompari-on  witli  miiny  eitlier  of  oiu*  Kuf^lish  or  our  Scottish  lakes.  Its 
surface  was  calm  and  still ;  beyond  it  rose  a  wooded  ridt?e  of  rounded  hills,  purpled 
by  the  hroad-lcaved  trees  which  covered  them,  and  terminated  at  the  foot  of  the 
hake  by  a  lofty,  so-called  Lion's  Hack,  lower  considerably  than  Arthur's  Seat,  yet 
^Btil!  a'miniatiire  Hen  Lomond."'— I'Rop.  .Tohnstcn. 

Hen  Lomond,  Jones,  Taylor's,  and  other  so-called  lakes  (beiuR  large  forest-ponds) 
lare  situated  in  this  neij,'iitmrhood,  and  afford  ))etter  fishing  facilities  than  theiuuch- 
ivUited  waters  of  Loch  liOi:iond  Hoth  white  and  spt'ckled  trout  are  eaujiht  in  great 
[numbers  from  rafts  or  floats  on  these  ponds;  and  Hunker's  or  Dalzell's  affords  a 
[favorable  headquarters  for  the  sportsuiau,  where  also  more  particular  informatioa 
[may  be  obtained. 

The  Penitenthiry  is  a  grnnite  building  120  ft.  long,  situated  in  an  in- 

[■walled  tract  of  18  acres,  on  the  farther  side  of  Courtenay  Bay.     The  Pcor 

\jLmst.  is  a  spacious  brick  building  in  the  same  neighborhood.     The  road 

that  passes  these  institutions  is  prolonged  as  far  as  MLipeck,  traversing  a 

liversilied  country,  and  at  times  affording  pretty  views  of  the  Bay  of 

iFundy.     Misj)eck  is  a  small  marine  hamlet,  10  M.  from  St.  John. 

There  is  an  excellent  drive,  over  a  good  highway,  from  St.  John  to  the 
)leasant  scenery  of  the  Kennebecasis,  by  the  Sand-Point  road. 

The  *  Suspension  Bridge  is  auout  ii  M.  from  King  Scjuare,  and  the 

distance  may  he  traversed  by  onniibuses  (or  in  part  by  horse-cars)  passing 

tiu'ough  the  city  of  Portland  ar  1  under  Fort-Howe  Hill  (whence  a  good 

view  of  the  city  is  afforded).     The  bridge  crosses  tlie  rocky  gorge  into 

which  the  wide  waters  of  the  St.  .lolin  River  are  compressed,  at  a  height 
of  nearly  100  ft.  above  low  water.  The  rush  of  the  upward  tide,  and  the 
falls  whieii  become  visible  at  low  tide,  fill  the  stream  with  seething  eddies 
and  whirls,  and  render  navigation  impossible.  At  a  certain  stage  of  the 
fliiod-tide,  and  tor  a  few  minutes  only,  this  gorge  may  be  ])assed  by  vessels 
and  rafts.  A  splendid  steel  cantilever  railway  bridge  spans  the  river 
uianediately  above  the  Suspension  Bridge. 

The  St.  John  River  is  over  450  M.  long,  and,  with  its  many  tributaries,  drains  a 
vast  t  xtent  of  country.  Yet,  at  this  j»oint  where  its  waters  are  emptied  into  the 
hiirbor,  the  outlet  of  the  river  is  narrowed  to  a  channel  which  is  in  pla<  es  but  450 
ft.  \vide,\^ith  cliffs  of  rimestonc  100  ft.  iiig'i  tiennniiig  itiiion  either  side.  The  stream 
through  this  narrow  ]):iss  wit  i  jrn^at  im))etuosity,  atul  its  course  is  further 


disturbei  by  beveral  rocky  isle'js.    Tl 


A».\^   %,t.\xt^a  I 


u  tue  harbor  rise  to  a  height  of  22-26 


24       Ronte  2.    THE  ENVIRONS  OF  ST.   JOHN. 

ft.,  and  ruH]i  up  the  river  wHh  such  fnrco  a.<«  to  ovorfhiw  th«  fallx  and  proiluce  level 
waUT  at  tldoil-tide.  'i'lu,'  biiilf;e  was  built  in  1K(V2  ti>  an  Auierican  eiiniiiier, and  t  <)>t 
*  HO,()(X).  It  iH  (j40  ft.  loug  and  contuiuH  57U  M.  of  wire,  8upi)orted  ou  4  sluudcr  but 
solid  towers. 

Over  the  head  of  the  hriilpc,  on  the  Curleton  shore,  is  the  Pronnchrl 
Lunatic  Asylum,  nn  extensive  ln'ieli  huildiMj^  witli  Ictiifj  \vinf,'s,  situated  in 
pleasiint  grounds.  Its  eleviited  situation  renders  it  a  y)rorninent  object  in 
npproaehiiij^tlie  city  from  ahnost  any  direction.  Tlie  huildiug  was  erected 
in  184H,  and  iicconiniodates  200  jiatients.  From  this  vicinity,  or  from  tlie 
bridge,  are  seen  the  busy  manufacturiiiff  villages  about  Indiautown  and 
Point  Pleasant,  most  cd' which  are  engaged  in  the  Iuml)er  biisiness. 

On  the  suimtiit  of  the  highest  hill  in  Carleton  is  u  venerable  and  pic- 
turesque stone  tower,  which  gives  an  antique  and  feudal  air  to  the  land- 
Hcape.  It  is  known  as  the  Martello  Tower,  and  was  built  for  a  harbor- 
defence  at  the  time  when  this  peculiar  kind  of  fortification  was  favored 
by  the  British  War  Otfice.  Many  of  these  works  jnay  be  seen  along  the 
shores  of  the  British  Isles,  but  they  are  now  used  (if  used  at  all)  only  as 
coast-guard  stations.  The  tower  in  Carleton  is  under  the  charge  of  a  sub- 
officer,  and  near  by  are  seen  the  remains  of  a  hill-battery,  Avith  a  few  old 
guns  still  iu  position.  The  *view  from  this  point  is  broad  and  beautiful, 
including  St.  .lolm,  with  the  spires  of  Trinity  and  the  Cathedral  most 
prominent,  Portland  and  the  Fort  Howe  Hill,  the  wharves  of  Carleton  and  its 
pretty  churches,  the  harbor  and  siiipping,  the  broad  Bay  of  Fundy,  ex- 
tending to  the  horizon,  and  in  the  S.  the  blue  shores  of  Nova  Scotia  (the 
North  Rlt.),  with  the  deep  gap  at  the  entrance  to  the  Annapolis  Basin, 
called  the  Digby  Gut. 

The  streets  of  Carleton  are  as  yet  in  a  transition  state,  and  do  not  invite 
a  long  sojourn.  On  the  hill  near  the  ^lartello  Tower  is  the  tall  and  grace- 
ful Church  of  the  Aisumpiiun,  with  pleasant  grounds,  in  which  is  the 
fine  building  of  the  presbytery.  Below  this  point  is  the  Convent  of  St. 
Vincent,  S.  of  which  is  seen  the  spire  of  St.  Jude's  Episcopal  Church. 

The  Fern  Ledges  a^e  about  1  M.  from  Carleton,  on  the  phore,  and  are  much 
visited  by  geologists.  They  consist  of  an  erratic  fragment  of  the  Old  Red  Sandstone 
epoch,  and  are  covered  with  sea-weed  and  limpets.  On  clearing  away  the  weeds  and 
breaking  the  rock,  the  most  beautiful  impressions  of  ferns  and  other  cryptogamous 
plants  are  found. 

The  Mahogany  1  Road  affords  a  fine  drive  along  the  Bay  shore,  with  a 
succession  of  broad  marine  views.  It  is  gained  by  crossing  the  Susj)en- 
sion  Bridge  and  passing  the  Insane  Asylum.  About  4  M.  from  the  city  is 
the  Fonr-Mile  House,  a  favorite  objective  point  for  drives.  The  road  is 
often  followed  as  far  as  Spruce  Lake,  a  tine  sheet  of  water  5  JI.  long,  and 
situated  about  7  IM-  from  St.  John.  Perch  are  found  here  in  great  num- 
bers, but  the  facilities  for  fishing  are  not  good.  The  water  supply  of  the 
suburb  of  Carleton  is  drawn  from  this  lake. 

1  Mahopany,  a  popular  adaptation  of  the  Indian  word  Mana  agonisli,  applied  to  the 
neighboring  bay. 


I 


■I ;' 


M 


CAMPOBELLO. 


tinide  3.      25 


bupp]}'  of  the 


,  applied  to  the 


3.    St.  Join  to  Eastport  and  St.  Stephen.  —  Passamaquoddy 

Bay.    ('^'^e  p(i(/e  HO  i>.} 

Tho  coiniiUHlious  vessels  of  fho  Interiuitional  Stt'anisliip  ('oin|mny  l»>av«'  flicRcod'g 
Point  Wlmrl,  at  St.  ilohii,  cvrr}  MuikIuv,  WtiiiU'fiday,  aini  Fiiila.\,  at  7.'-'"*  A.M.,  and 
ri'Htli  Ka^tll(ll•t  (tj'i  .M.  di.-tanl)  before  iioon.     A  connection  i.s  made  tlu  re  with 

a  .''inaller  ,-'te:iinl)iiat,  wliicli  a.-cends  I'as.-auuuiuoddy  hny  and  tlie  St.  (Jroix  Uiver  to 
yt.  Andrews  and  St   Steplieii. 

The  Shore  Line  Railway  runs  from  St.  .Tolin  to  St.  Stcplion,  82  miles 
W.,  and  it  is  lioped  that  it  may  be  extended  down  tlirou^h  Maine  to  IJun- 
gor,  fros^inj^'  the  t'l'dntier  at  Calais,  and  nrnning  aroniid  thronuh  tii'.;  coa^t 
lountios.  It  is  not  yet  i)ert'et't  in  runtu  and  etinipniont,  and  is  content  with 
running  in  a  very  hdsurely  way  down  this  pietures(iue  and  tiiinly  settled 
coast.  The  localities  which  it  apprnaches  are  more  particularly  described 
on  pages  31,  '62,  liH,  3-4,  and  35  of  this  book. 

Stations.  —  Ht  .loiin  to  Spruce  Lake,  7  M  ;  Musqunph.O;  Lancaster,  16; 
Lepreaux,  24;  New  Kiver,  213;  I'eiinfieid,  3U }  S^t.  Georye,  47;  Bouny  Uiver,  58; 
Dyer's,  ti2  ;  Oak  Bay,  07  ;  St,  Stephen,  82. 

After  loavlng  St.  ,Tohn,  the  steamer  rnns  S.  W.  Into  tho  Bay  of  Fundy, 
and  soon  pn'^'-es  Si)lit  I'ock,  and  stretches  across  to  Point  r.oprean.  The 
peculiarities  of  tlic  coast,  which  is  always  visible  (in  clear  weather)  on  the 
N.,  are  spoken  of  in  lioute  5,  and  aro  thus  ojiitoniized  by  Mr.  Warner  : 
"  A  pretty  bay  now  and  then,  a  rocky  cove  with  scant  foliafre,  !i  light- 
house, a  rude  cabin,  a  level  land,  monotonous  and  without  noble  forests, — 
this  was  New  Urunswick  as  wo  coasted  along  it  under  the  most  favorable 
circumstances." 

After  pa-sing  tho  iron-bouod  islets  called  the  Wolves  (where  the  Niio 
En(jlimd  was  Avrecked  in  1872),  the  steamer  runs  in  towards  the  West 
JsleSy  whoso  knob-like  hills  rise  boldly  from  the  blue  waters.  Sometimes 
she  meets,  in  these  outer  passages,  freat  fleets  of  flshing-boats,  either 
drifting  over  schools  of  fish,  or,  with  their  white  and  red  sails  stretched, 
pursuing  their  prey.  If  such  a  meeting  occurs  during  one  of  the  heavy 
fogs  which  so  often  visit  this  coast,  a  wonderfully  wep-d  effect  is  caused 
by  the  sudden  emergence  and  disappoax'ance  of  the  boats  in  the  dense 
white  clouds. 

Soon  after  passing  tho  White  Horse  islet,  the  steamer  enters  the  Eastern 
Passage,  and  runs  to  the  S.  W.  into  Friar's  Road.  On  tho  r.  is  Deer 
Isle,  a  rugged  island,  7  M.  long  by  3  M.  w-ide,  with  a  noor  soil  and  no 
good  harbors.  There  are  about  1,600  inhabitants  on  this  island,  and  it  is 
surrounded  by  an  arcliipeUigo  of  is<jlated  rocky  peaks.  The  shores  attain 
an  elevtition  of  300  ft.,  and  from  some  of  the  higher  hills  are  gained  beau- 
tiful panoramic  views  of  the  Pu 
Buy  of  Fundy,  on  the  other. 


luiaciuoddy  Bay,  on  one  side,  :*ud  tho 


I 


2G      Route  S. 


EASTPOllT. 


On  tlie  (tthorside  arc  tlio  ^Tiiiidly  picturcsqiio  liondliuidndf  rnnipohdln, 
tli(!  isliiiid  wliicii  has  rci-oiitly  Ittcoiiif  .so  well  known  aH  an  Amcricun  siini' 
iner-ri!(sort,  particidaily  (il'lVctcd  bv  the  lu-int  people  of  Boston  and  ('an»- 
l)ridp-.  A  uiure  tliurougli  uccuunl  uf  tluH  lucality  ih  found  on  page  M  a, 
liert'inaftL'r. 


i 


Tlio  oiirlh'st  pi'ttlonicnt  on  the  Bay  was  pstaMishnl  fdiout  1770,  hy  the  rnmpo- 
licllo  ('oiii|iaii,v,  ami  was  locatdt  at  iliirl>i)i' ih  Lutt',  on  Citiii|i(ili(  ilo  l^lall(l  It  \Miii 
iiiiuud  Warrington,  )mt  tlic  WclchinKil  Mtilmient  lias  loi,^'  liiiici'  (>uri  i.-.-oii  It.  'I'lio 
i.sland  was  lor  H)nio  time  tlie  |ir<ij»ert_v  ol  I'ujit.  (hveu,  of  the  Uoval  Niiv_\,  U\  \vlinn» 
the  residents  paid  tenant-s"  does.  At  eerti.in  stiines  of  the  tide,  Ka>l)Mirt  ran  oiily 
Ik>  a|iiiroa<'hed  hy  pas-^ing  around  Camiiohelio,  (■(pn<(i iiin/f  wliiih  .Mr.  Warmr  in- 
dulges in  tile  following  jtleahanti.N  :  "  The  |io>.'>e,ssi(in  liy  th(  Hrili^ll  of  the  i>land  of 
rainjioliello  is  an  insururaldr  nienaee  and  inijH  rtinene*-.  1  write  with  a  full  knowl- 
edgo  of  what  war  is.  We  ought  to  in.'^tantl\  di^U)dge  the  I?rili.-li  fmiii  <  nn.|i(il  fljo. 
It  entirely  shuts  uj)  and  eoniniands  our  harhor,  —  one  of  our  chief  Kastern  har- 
liorH  and  war  stations,  where  we  kei-p  a  Hag  and  eaunon  and  .''ouie  holdiers,  ami 
vhere  the  <ustoins  olVieers  look  out  for  smuggling  There  is  no  way  to  g«'t  into  our 
own  harhor,  except  in  favorable  eireunistanco;  of  the  tide,  without  liegging  the 
courfe.sy  of  a  passage  through  llritifh  waters.  Why  is  Kngland  })erniitted  to  stretch 
along  (low  11  our  coast  in  this  straggling  auil  in(lui^itive  manner  ?  She  might  alaicst 
II.S  well  own  Long  I.sland.  It  was  iiiipos8ii)le  to  prevent  our  clucks  niatitling  with 
fhanie  as  w<'  thought  of  this,  and  .«aw  our.«»  Ives,  fnc  Aincricaii  citi/«  iis,  landlei  kod 
liy  alien  soil  in  our  own  harbor.  We  oiiglii  to  have  war,  if  war  i-  iieee.'-sary  to  (los- 
Pes.s  ('anii>obell()  and  I)<  er  Islands,  or  el.-c  w«  oiigiit  to  give  the  British  Eas'tport.  I 
am  not  sure  but  the  latter  would  be  the  bett«(r  course." 


i        •'■' 


i 


Eastport  (r/zf  Quodthj,  a  new  and  cnmfortaMe  hotel,  with  05  chaiTibcrs) 
is  an  American  liorder-iown  on  the  coast  of  Maine,  and  lias  3,738  in- 
habitants and  8  churches.  It  is  built  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  at  the  E. 
end  of  Moose  Island,  m  I'assainacii oddy  Bay.  and  is  engaged  in  the  tlsh- 
eries  and  the  coasting-trade.  Over  tlie  village  are  the  ramparts  of  Fort 
Sullivan,  a  post  of  the  United  States,  commanding  the  harbor  with  its 
artillery.  Eastport  is  mnch  visited  in  sunnntr  for  the  sake  of  the  salt- 
■water  fishing  iind  the  uiiii|ne  marine  scenery  in  the  vicinity,  and  has  sev- 
eral reputable  board ing-ln>n«es.  It  is  coimectcd  with  the  mainland  by  a 
bridge,  over  which  lies  the  road  to  the  Indian  village.  Eastjiort  is  the 
most  CDnveniont  ))oint  from  vhicli  to  reach  Camj)obelIo,  Grand  Rinnan 
(see  Route  4),  and  the  adjacent  islaiels.  A  steam-ferry  runs  hence  in  3  M. 
to  Lubec  ( Luhec  I/nme.  Cob^'ook-  TTotel),  a  picturesque  marine  village  to- 
wards Qu(i(ldy  Head,  with  advantages  t'cr  summer  residents.  This  pleasant 
little  place  is  decaying  slowly,  having  lost  over  400  inhabitants  between 
1860  ami  1870.  The  present  population  is  a  little  over  2,000.  Lubec  is 
1  M.  farther  E.  than  Etistjmrt,  and  is  therefore  the  easternmost  town  of 
the  United  States.  The  purple  clifl's  of  Grand  ^lauaa  are  seen  from 
Quoddv  Head. 


EASTPORT. 


Routes.       27 


"f  rnnipohcllo, 

Aiiicricuii  .stim- 

>st(tii  and  Cjim- 

l  on  puye  'M  «, 


!),  by  tho  Cnni po- 
lo l^ljlll(]  It  wim 
•iiri  j.s.M'd  it.  'I'lio 
III  Ni;\\\,  Ut  wlioin 
Kioljioit  can  (ii:ly 
I  Mr.  Wariit  r  in- 
li  (if  tlic  i>lniMl  (if 
with  a  lull  kiiowl- 

iVdiii  riiii,|p(ii  ciio. 

Iiicf  KiistiTii  liar- 
Diiu'  hdldiiTH,  and 
ay  tu  jrct  into  dur 
luiiit  li»^'-)riiin  tlie 
niilttcd  to  htietcli 
Slio  iiiiglit  alinoKt 
ks  iiiaiitlint;  with 
tizdis,  lamllfuketi 
ijcccssary  to  pos- 
itish  Eas'tport.     I 


h  05  clminbers) 
lias  :i,7-iS  m- 
liill  at  The  E. 
jed  ill  the  fish- 
11  parts  of  Fort 
larbur  with  its 
ke  of  the  Piilt- 
'.  and  has  sev- 
ma inland  by  a 
Kastport  is  the 
Grand  hitman 
IS  hence  in  3  M. 
riiio  vilhigo  to- 
This  pleasant 
itants  between 
)00.  Lubec  is 
iniost  town  of 
are  seen  from 


In  K)R4  the  Piiflnanmq noddy  i!iland.s  wrn*  (;ruiit<'d  by  the  Klnj?  of  Franco  to  .Ti'an 
Sarruau  dt?  f*t  Aulmi  In  tin"  suinim-r  of  17<4  the  few  Krench  scttU^rn  iihoiit  I'asna- 
inii<|uoddy  Kay  NVtTc  plinidcrcd  liy  an  (>x|icdition  under  Col  i'liurch,  con^iHtirlK  of 
(iMi  .Massachusetts  soldirrs,  escorted  by  the  nien-of-war  Jir»fif,  4H,  and  (lo.sfiort,  .TJ. 
They  ancended  the  St  Croi.x  as  far  m*  tin-  heail  of  navijjation,  then  returned  and 
crossed  the  hay  to  ravage  tin-  Minas  ,«ettlenn'nts.  They  vi>ited  .Moose  Island  and 
the  adjacent  main,  and  earrieil  oll'all  the  settlers  as  prisoners.  Ki^'iitcen  \ears  later 
II  Hcistoii  sliip  was  captured  by  the  IndiaiiH  ainon^  tlu'se  islands,  but  was  letakeii  by 
its  crew  when  a  (air  wind  arose  In  1744  Massactiu.setts  declared  war  ajjainst  tliM 
IndianH  on  tliis  l)ay  ami  on  the  St.  Jolni  Kiver;  and  in   ITliO  the  tribes  su«'d  tor 

Ceace,  sending  liostajres  to  Hostoii.  In  17'{4  (iov.  Helcher  (of  .Ma.ss.)  visited  the 
ay,  anil  in  17jV1  and  17(>'2  its  shores  and  islands  were  rcf^ularly  siu'veyed 
huriiiK  tlie  War  of  tlie  Revolution  thu  I'assanuKiuoddy  Indians  wt-re  loyal  to 
the  United  States,  and  declined  all  olTers  from  the  Hritish  ajrents.  Tin-  boundary 
question  bej^an  to  assume  ^reat  importance  after  the  dose  of  the  war.  The  treaty 
Htipulafed  that  the  St  (^roix  Kiver  should  form  the  frontier;  but  .Ma.ssachu.M'tt.s, 
ttuppurted  by  tile  Indians,  claimed  that  the  Maj,'ajiuiid.ivic  was  the  true  St.  (!roi,\  ; 
while  (ireat  Hrirain  asserted  and  proved  that  the  outlet  of  the  Sclioodii-  Lakes  was 
the  veritable  river.  The  islands  wei-u  surremlered  tolJritain;  but  Moose,  Dudley, 
and  Frederick  Islands  were  restored  to  the  United  States  in  IHIH. 

Kastport  was  founded  about  17K4,  by  fishonnen  from  the  coiust  of  Ewsex  County, 
Ma<s.,  who  M'ttled  here  on  account  of  the  faciliticH  for  oatchint;  and  curinj?  tish.     In 
IHilS  the  walls  of  Fort  Sullivan  were  raised,  ami  a  detachment  of  troops  was  sta- 
tioned there.     In  lSi;i  the  valuable  llritish  vessel,  the  E/iza  Ann,  wu.s  captured  by 
the  privateer   Tintol/n/   Pick^rina  and  sent  into   KastiM)rt.      She  was  followed  by 
II.  >I.  S.  Mdrlin,  wliox'  conunander  demanded  her  surrender,  on  pain  of  destroying 
the  town.     The  citizens  refused  to  release  tlu;  prize,  and  the  Martin  opened  fire  on 
Eastport,  but  wa,s  soon  driven  away  by  the  fjuns  of  the  fort,     iluly  11,  1814,  a  Brit- 
ish fleet  app<>ared  olT  the  town,  and  informed  the  commander  that  if  he  did  not  haul 
I  down  his  tla^^  within  five  minutes  they  would  bombard  the  town      The  tlaj^  camo 
ido.vn,  the  Kiii'ii-*""  lui'l  down  their  arnis,ai:d  the  iiostile  fleet,  headed  by  the  linini- 
\iirs,  74,  anchored  olf  the  t(jwn.     Hritish  martial  law  was  enforced  hero  for  the  next 
four  ^eurs,  after  which  the  place  was  restored  to  the  United  States. 


The  river-steanibcat.   in  ascending  the  bay,  runs   for   some   distance 
[between  Deer  isK  and  Moose  Island.     At  about  5  M.  from   Eastport, 
Measant  I'oint  (k  .-.\vn  to  the  Indians  as  Sij/jdi/c)  is  seen  on  the  I.     Here 
Mi»  the  chief  settlement  of  the  l^issamaqnoddy  Indians,  who  were  driven 
|froni  tiie  peninsula  of  St.  Andrews  nearly  a  century  aj>o,  and  received 
their  present  domain  from  the  American  government.    They  are  about  400 
In  niunber,  antl  draw  an  annuity  and  a  school-fund  from  the  Republic. 

_^^    They  are  the  remnant  of  the  ancient  Openaugo  tribe  of  the  Etcheniin  nation,  and 

^pthey  cliuK  tenaciously  to  the  faith  delivered  unto  them  of  old  by  the  Jesuits.    Their 

'fS^churcli  is  dediciited  to  St.  Anne,  and  is  served  by  Indian  deacons;  and  the  pictu- 

'  res((ue  ce tery  is  in  the  same  vicinity.    They  supi)ort  themselves  by  hunting,  fish- 

Jinj;,  and  bstsket-makinj;,  and  their  favorite  amusement  is  dancing, "for  which  they 

.  have  built  a  hall.     Tliere  are  scarcely  any   pure-blooded  Indians  here,  but  the 

adulteration  ha.s  been  made  with  a  choicer  material  than  among  the  othvr  tribes, 

Pince  th«'.se  are  mostly  French  half-breeds,  in  distinction  from  the  negro  half-breedfl 

of  the  lower  coasts.     Many  years  ago  there  was  a  controversy  about  the  chicftj'.incy, 

tin  c.)iisequeiice  of  which  a  portion  of  the  tribe  .seceded,  and  are  now  settled  on  the 

[Schoodic  Lakes. 

t     The  name  Passamwiuoihly  is  said  to  be  derived  from  Pesmn-ncar/i^^,  "  pollock- 

f place  "     Others  say  tiiat  Quodilu  means  •' pollc.i-k  "  ;    but   Fatl'.er   Vetromilc,  the 

arly  Jesuit  nnssionary^  claims  that  the  whole  word  is  a  corruption  of  the  Indian 

imrKjuiniiik,  derived  from  PeskuUuminkkanti,  a  term  which  signifies 


Up  mto  the  open  field. 


goes 


28       Route  I 


GRAND   MAXAN. 


As  the  bivy  is  entered,  tihove  Pleasiint  Point,  the  West  Isles  are  seen 
openinj?  on  tlie  r.,  dis])lnyin<:  w  fjrcat  viiriety  (if  fornis  and  coinliinations. 
On  the  I.  arc  the  pii^nsMnl  shores  of  I'cnv,  and  f;ir  acniss.  to  tlie  r.,  are  the 
liij^hhuids  alioiit  the  Mati^Mirnjuhivie  Kivcr.  After  passin;:f  Navy  Island,  the 
boat  ronmls  ni  at  St.  Andrews. 

St.  Andrews,  the  St.  Croix  Hiver,  and  St.  Stephen,  see  pages  33-36. 


4.   Grand  Manan. 

This  "  piiradisc  nf  olilTs  "  is  sitiiiited  elF  QiuxUly  Ifoail.  aliout  7  M.  from  the 
Maine  coast,  . ■111(1  pertains  to  tlie  I'rovince  of  New  liruiiswick.  It  is  easily  reaelied 
from  Kastport  (diiriiiji  lair  wimls),  with  wliieli  it  has  a  mail  eoninuinication.     The 


eiuiiiiier  climate  wmial  he  delicidiis  were  it  not  for  the  f( 


iiul  it  is  claiiiied  that 


invalids  siilferin;i  from  liout  ami  dyspep>ia-  receive  iimcli  henetit  here  (very  liUely 
from  the  enforced  ahstiiieiice  from  riidi  food).  'J'lie  hrooks  and  the  inany  fresh- 
water jioiids  alTonl  fair  troufiiiji  and  hird-shootiiifr,  and  a  few  deer  and  rahhits  are 
fouiul  ill  the  woods.  There  are  iiu  bears  nor  reptiles  on  the  island.  There  is  a 
small  inn  at  (iraiid  Harbor,  Imt  the  sojourner  will  jirefer  to  jret  board  in  some  of 
the  private  houses.  Neat  rooms  and  simple  fare  may  there  be  obtained  for  S!4-7  a 
week. 

"  As  we  advanced,  Alanan  frradnally  rose  al  ove  the  waves  and  ehanfred  its  nspeot, 
the  llat-toppcil  purple  wall  bein;jc  transmuted  into  lirowii.  ruL^fred,  jk  rpendicniar 
clilfs,  crowned  with  dark  jrri'cn  fouai^e.  I'assinjr,  as  we  did,  close  in  by  the  extreme 
northern  point,  we  were  inii>ressed  by  its  beauty  and  grandeur,  which  far  e.xcicds 
even  that  id' the  clill's  at  .Mount  Desert. 

"  .Xs  a  place  of  simimcr  resort,  (irand  Manan  is  in  some  respecds  unequalled.  At 
certain  seasons  the  foj;  is  abundant,  yet  that  can  be  endured.  Here  the  oiiportnni- 
tii'S  for  recreation  are  uneiiualled,  ami  all  jiersons  foml  id'  grand  sea-shore  views 
may  indulge  their  tast<'  witiiont  lindt.  The  pcojile  are  invariably  kind  and  trust- 
worthy, and  .Vmerican  manners  and  customs  prevail  to  such  au  extent  that  travel- 
lers at  once  feel  at  home."     (I)i;  t'osiA  .) 

The  ishiiid  of  Grand  Manan  is  22  M.  lonu;  and  3-G  M.  wide,  and  lies  in 
the  niontli  of  the  Uay  of  Fiuidy,  whose  powerful  tides  sweep  impetuously 
by  its  shores.  It  has  about  2,730  inhabitants,  who  dwell  aloni;  the  road 
■whieh  coiiiieets  the  harbors  on  the  K.  shore,  and  are  famous  for  their  dar- 
ing and  expertness  in  the  tisheries.  They  have  10  sehools,  8  churches  (5 
Vree-Will  iJaptist,  and  2  ("luire!i  of  Kngland);  while  the  advantages  of 
free-trade,  insiguiticant  taxation,  government-built  roads,  and  complete 
self-legislation,  give  reason  lor  the  apostrophe,  "Happy  Mananites,  who, 
free  from  grinding  taxation,  now  rove  out  I'rom  roek-bonnd  coves,  and 
quarry  at  will  in  the  silvery  mines  of  the  sea!  "  The  harbors  on  the  K. 
sh(.ire  allord  safe  shelter  for  small  vessels,  and  are  connected  with  the 
great  clill's  on  the  \V.  by  narrow  roads  through  the  woods.  The  fisheries 
of  eod,  herring,  and  haddock  are  very  extensive  in  f':"s  vicinity,  and  form 
the  cl  f  resource  of  the  jjcople,  who  are  distinguished  for  the  quaint  sim- 
plicity which  nsmilly  pertains  to  small  and  insulated  maritime  communi- 
ties. Grand  Manan  has  been  for  many  years  a  favorite  resort  for  Amer- 
ican marine  ])ainters,  who  tind  excellent  studies  in  its  picturesque  cliflTs 
and  billowy  seas.  It  was  visited  by  Champlain  in  Itjori,  but  Wiis  occupied 
only  by  the  Indians  for  IbO  years  after.  Col.  Allan,  the  American  com- 
mander in  E.  Maine  during  the  devolution,  held  the  island  with  his  Indian 


GRAND  MA  NAN. 


Route  4.       29 


3st  Isles  nre  seen 
11(1  coiiihiiiiitioMs. 
.  to  the  r.,  iiro  tiie 
;  Niivy  Island,  tlio 

)e  pages  33-36. 


nut  7  AI.  from  the 
It  is  cii.'-ilv  icaclicd 
iiiiiiiiiiication.  The 
1  it  is  cljiinu'd  tlmt 
fit  here  (very  likely 
1(1  the  iiiiiiiy  fV('s)i- 
It'cr  iiud  rahtiits  are 
islaml.  'J'lu'ic  is  a 
■t  lioard  in  sniiie  of 
ibtaiiR'il  tor  !it4-  7  a 

cliaiip'd  its  aspect, 
'i'^vi\,  IK  rpciidiiiilar 
i-  ill  )iy  till-  cxticnic 
',  which  far  excicdrf 

cts  iin('C|iiall('d.  At 
leie  tlif  •ipiiortmii- 
iiid  s('a-sli(iio  views 
[My  kind  and  trust- 
extent  that  travel- 


wide,  niid  lies  in 
cp  itiiix'tnou^ly 
ildiii;'  tlie  road. 
i'ov  tlu'ir  dar- 
.  8  eluuvhes  (5 
advaiita<j,-es  of 
,  mid  complete 

Maiiaiiites,  who, 
iiid  coves,  and 
rbors  on  the  K. 
ected  witli  the 
The  fisheries 
inity,  and  t'orm 
the  qnaiiit  sini- 
tiine  eomintni- 
esort  fur  Anier- 
ctnresfjue  eliff:4 
it  \v:i;^  occupied 
American  com- 
witli  his  Indian 


M 


nnxiliaries,  but  it  was  finally  reded  to  Great  Hritnin.  After  the  Avar  it 
was  settled  by  several  Loyuli.-^ts  from  Massacluisetts,  chief  among  whom 
■was  Moses  Gerri<h.  A  recent  writer  demands  that  the  island  1)C  fortified 
liinil  developed,  claim iiig  that  its  situation,  either  for  eonimerce  or  war, 
lis  strategii-ally  as  vahuil)le  as  tiiose  of  tiie  Isle  of  Man,  (Guernsey,  and 
ersey,  and  tliat  it  would  make  a  fine  jioiiit  ol'  attack  against  I'orthind 
nd  the  coast  of  Maine. 

ijvnnd  ILirhor  is  the  chief  of  the  islaml  liainlets,  and  is  situated  on  the 
afe  and  sjiallow  hay  of  tin;  same  name,  it  has  an  Kpiscopal  ciiun  h  of 
itoiie  mill  two  or  tiiree  stores,  besides  a  small  inn.  Olf  shore  to  the  8.  1'^. 
ie  l!oss,  Clieyiic.  and  White  Head  Islands,  f)n  the  latter  of  which  Audu- 
(in  studie<l  the;  habits  of  tlu^  herring-gulls,  in  18.33.  To  the  K.  are  the 
•o(k-l»omid  shores  of  Nantucket  Island,  and  on  the  S.  are  the  Grand 
.'onds. 

.     Tim  South  Share  is  reached  by  a  c;ood  road  leading  down  from  Grand 

'lliihor.     At  f)   M.  di-tance  is   the  narrow  harl>or  of  Stal  Cove,  beyond 

,vlm-h  the  road  lies  nearer  to  the  sea,  atlbrding  fine  marine  views  on  the 

''|.,   iiichidiiig  the  Wood  Islands  and  the  Gaiinet  Hock  Lighthouse,  0- 10 

%I.  lit  sea.     4  M.  iieyoiid  Seal  Cove  tlie  road  reaches  Broad  Core,  whence 

'It  ])ath   leads   across   th(>  downs  for  alioiit  2   M.  to  tlie   higii  and  oceaii- 

■l^iewing  clid's  of  S.  W.  Head.     Among  the  rugged  and  surf-beaten  rocks 

■%f  this  iiold  promontory  is  one  which  is  called  the  Southern  Cross.    About 

file  S.  W.  Head  is  a  favorite  resort  and  breeding-place  of  the  gulls,  whoso 
ests  are  made  in  the  grass.  A  forest-path  leads  N.  to  Bradford's  Cove, 
•|ttn  the  \y.  sliore,  a  wide  bight  of  the  sea  in  which  the  ship  Mavournten 
'^as  wrecked. 

I    The  Xinih  Shore.     The  road  fi-om  Grand  Harbor  to  Whale  Cove  is  7-8 

•i^I.  long,  and  is  firm  Mini  well-made.     H  ^^-  N.  of  (irand  Harbor,  Wood- 

;.|!var(l's  Cove  is  passed,  with  its  neat  hamlet,  4  M.  beyoiiil  whicdi  is  Klagg'.s 

^ove.     Spraf/fu''s  Core  is  a  pretty  fishing-hamlet  on  the  S.  side  of  Swal- 

'|ow-Tail  Head,  where  "everything  appears  to  have  been  arranged  for 

:,J:iirtistic  elfect.     The  old   boats,   the   tumble-down   storehouses,    the   pic- 

'||iures(pie  costumes,  the  breaking  surf,   and  all   the  miscellaneous  para- 

Jphernalia  of  such  a  jilace,  set  olf  as  they  are  by  the  noble  background 

;|)f  richly-colored  dill's,   produce  an  elfect  that  i%as  rare  as  beautiful." 

i^wallow-Tail  Head  is  a  tan->liaped  peninsula,  surroundefl  by  wave-worn 

l^lilfs,  and  swept  by  gales  from  every  (juarter.     On  its  outer  point  is  a 

.piglithouse  which  holds  a  fixed  light  (visible  for  17   ]\I.)   148  ft.   above 

iTJihe  sea. 

■:||  Whole  Cme  is  on  the  N.  E.  shore,  and  is  bordered  by  a  shingle-beach 
,||Dn  which  are  found  bits  of  i)orphyry,  agate,  jasper,  and  other  minerals. 
;^*  Here  the-  view  Is  surprisingly  line,  the  entire  shore  being  encircled  by 
^inmense  clifi's  that  rise  up  around  the  border  of  the  blue  waves,  with  a 
.^S^ichiiess  of  color  and  stateliiiess  of  aspect  that  cannot  fail  to  impress  the 

If 


30     Route  5. 


GRAND   MANAN. 


%    , 


■  'lis 

I 

'a 


beholder On  the  E.  side  is  Fish  Head,  and  on  the  W.  Eel  Brook  and 

Northern  Head,  the  latter  extending  out  beyond  its  neighbor,  and  be- 
tween are  the  blue  sky  and  water."  On  the  melancholy  cliffs  at  Eel 
Brook  Cove  the  ship  Lord  Ashbuvton  was  wrecked,  and  nearly  all  on 
board  were  lost  (21  of  them  are  bnried  at  Flagg's  Cove).  Beyond  this 
point,  and  near  the  extreme  northern  cape,  is  the  Bis/ioj/s  Head,  so  called 
because  of  a  vague  profile  in  the  face  of  the  cliff. 

The  W.  coast  of  Grand  Manan  is  lined  with  a  succession  of  massive  cliffs, 
which  appear  from  West  Quoddy  like  a  long  and  unbroken  purple  wall. 
These  great  precipices  are  3-400  ft.  high  (attaining  their  greatest  eleva- 
tion at  the  N.  end),  and  form  noble  combinations  of  marine  scenery.  A 
cart-track  leads  across  the  island  from  near  Woodward's  Cove  to  the  ro- 
mantic scenery  about  Dai-k  Cove  ;  near  which  is  Money  Cove,  so  named 
because  search  has  been  made  there  for  some  of  Capt.  Kidd's  buried 
treasures.  To  the  N.  is  Indian  Beach,  where  several  lodges  of  the  Passa- 
maquoddy  tribe  pass  the  slimmer,  attending  to  the  shore  fishery  of  por- 
poises. Still  farther  N.  are  the  rocky  palisades  and  whirling  currents  of 
Long's  Eddy. 

"  When  the  cliff  is  brought  out  on  such  a  stupendous  scale  as  at  Grand  Manan, 
■witti  all  the  accessories  of  a  wild  0(  ean  shore,  the  interest  becomes  absorbing.  The 
other  parts  of  the  island  are  of  course  invested  witli  much  interest  The  low  eastern 
shore,  fringed  with  small  islands  and  rocks,  atfords  many  picturesque  sights.  In  a 
pleasant  day  a  walk  southward  has  many  charms.  The  bright  sky,  the  8hing)e 
beach,  the  picturesque  boats,  and  blue  land-locked  bays  continually  enforce  the 
admiration  of  an  artistic  eye,  and  alhire  tlie  pedestrian  on  jxist  cape,  cove,  and 
reacli,  until  he  suddenly  fiuds  that  miles  of  ground  intervene  between  him  and  his 
dinner."    (Dk  Cost.a.) 

"  (Jrand  Manan,  a  favorite  summer  liaunt  of  the  painter,  is  the  very  throne  of 
the  bold  and  romantic.  The  higii  pre(ii)itous  shores,  but  for  the  woods  which  beau- 
tify them,  are  quite  in  the  style  of  Labrador."    (L.  L.  Noble  ) 


Charlevoix  speaks  of  an  old-time  wonder  which  sceniR  to  have  pa.^'sed  away  from 
these  sl)ores  :  "  It  is  even  asserted  that  at  ^  of  a  league  off  Isle  Menane,  which  serves 
as  a  guide  to  vessels  to  enter  St.  .lolm's  RiA'er,  there  is  a  ro(  k.  almost  always  cov- 
ered by  the  sea,  widch  is  of  lapis-jnznli.  It  is  added  that  Commander  de  Razilli 
broke  off  a  piece,  which  he  sent  to  France,  and  Sieur  Denys,  who  had  seen  it,  saya 
that  it  waa  valued  at  ten  crowns  an  ounce." 


d: 


"  But,  interesting  as  are  all  parts  of  this  picturesque  island,  the  climax  of  solitary 
wildness  iind  grandeur  is  to  be  found  only  in  the  'Great  (or  Gull)  Cliffs,'  at  Southern 
Head.  Landing  from  the  Eastport  steamer,  either  at  Flagg's  or  at  Woodward's  Cove, 
let  us  charter  an  open  vehicle  and  ride  down  the  island.  The  smooth  brown  road 
skirt.«i  along  the  E.  shore  for  the  most  part,  showing  us  in  succession  the  half-ciozen 
peaceful  fi-liing-hamlets  which  contain  its  entire  population,  with  their  seven  neat 
churches  Mild  their  remarkably  handsome  and  commodious  schoolhoa-^es.  After  3 
hrs.  deliglitful  drive,  we  arrive  at  ^  Harvey^ s,'  a  very  small  but  most  home- 
like cottage  inn.  Alighting  here,  let  us  take  the  picturesque  path  that  leads  to 
the'  Great  (or  Gull)  Ciilfs.'  For  the  first  \  M.  the  path  takes  us  across  elevated 
pasturH-land,  showing  us  iXv.  open  sea  upon  three  sides.  For  another  quarter  it 
plunges  into  a  uense  forest,  and  presently  descends  to  the  edge  of  the  water,  which, 
it  reaches  at  a  little  stony  level  known  as  *  Southern  Head  Beach.'    Crossing  tliis, 


and  skirting  the 


^-V^  coast,  we  soon  commence  rising  with  the  rising  shore,  until 


at  the  tfid  of  a  short  mile  we  emerge  from  the  slirubbery  to  find  ourselves  on  tlie 
top  of  *■  llay  Point,'  gazing  perpendicularly  down  ut  the  sea,  which  dashes,  at  the 


CAMPOBELLO. 


Route  78.      30  a 


2I  Brook  and 
)or,  iiud  be- 
cliffs  at  Eel 
early  all  on 
Beyond  this 
'.ad,  so  called 

lassive  cliffs, 
purple  wall, 
•eatest  eleva- 
scenery.  A 
)ve  to  the  ro- 
ve, so  named 
idd's  buried 
of  the  Passa- 
shery  of  por- 
C  currents  of 


Grand  Manan, 
isorhiiig.  The 
.'hf  low  eastern 
e  sights.  In  a 
:y,  the  shingle 
[ly  enforce  the 
ipe.  cove,  and 
him  and  his 

rery  throne  of 
is  which  beau- 


ped  away  from 

which  Fcrves 

St  always  rov- 

der  dc  Razilli 

d  seen  it,  says 


lax  of  solitary 

at  Southern 
dward's  Cove, 

brown  road 
he  half-dozen 
r  seven  neat 
ses.     After  3 

most  homo- 
hat  leads  to 
ross  elevated 
er  quarter  it 
water,  which 
rossiug  this, 

shore,  until 
elves  on  the 
ashes,  at  the 


base  of  tho  ^lifT  over  which  we  lean,  some  250  feet  below  ?  A  few  rods  further  on, 
ami  we  come  to  the  new  Soutuern  Head  Ijiglithouse.  From  hence  for  a  mile  fur« 
tlicr  we  pace  along  tlie  deeply  indented  edge  of  this  dizzy  height,  as  upon  a  loity 
espliiimde,  eojosing  its  solitary  grandeur,  enhanced  by  the  wild  screams  of  hun- 
dreds of  circling  sea  gulls,  until  at  last  we  arrive  opposite  the  *  Old  Maid.'  " 

A  Stanch  steamboat  runs  between  Eastport  and  Grand  Manan,  con- 
necting:; with  the  Iiitornational  steamships  from  Boston  at  Eastport,  and 
crosHJiiijf  to  the  island  in  2  hrs.  There  is  0  good  pier  at  Flagg's  Cove 
(North  Head).  Two  small  but  comfortable  hotels  have  been  erected  near 
N(  rtl\  Head  (the  ^larble-Ilidge  House);  and  Grand  Manan  has  latterly 
grown  rapidly  in  public  favor.  A  submarine  cable  runs  hence  to  Eastport. 
TluTc  are  5  telegraph-offices  on  the  island.  There  are  also  several  livery 
stables,  and  good  roads.  Complete  inununity  from  hay-fever  is  enjoyed 
here.    Myriads  of  gulls  and  stormy  petrels  breed  ou  the  adjacent  islets. 

78.    Campobello. 

Small  steamboats  run  from  Eastport  to  Campobello  hourly. 

The  O^veu  is  an  aesthetic  sunmier-hotel,  composed  of  the  old  Owen  mansion, 
devoted  to  office,  billi.ird-room  kitchen,  and  dining-room,  and  the  main  building, 
a  huge  modern  erection,  containing  parlors  and  chambers,  and  connected  with  the 
old  niiinsiou  *i>  .  '-  T  ot't">  corridor:  The  surrounding  grounds  are  pleasantly  hiid 
out,  and  contal  :  •  >ld  porter's  lodge,  sun-dial.  Lovers'  Lane,  and  the  Admiral's 
hawthorn  hedg 

The  Tyii-y-i;t)edd  (House  in  the  Wood)  is  another  large  summer-hotel,  per- 
taining n' the  Campobello  Company,  and  devoted  niiiinly  to  the  accommodation  of 
families,  being  (juieter  and  more  secluded  than  the  Owen. 

Campobello  is  an  island  8  M.  by  3  in  area,  lying  off  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 
and  pertaining  to  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick.  It  has  1,100  inhabi- 
tants, most  of  whom  live  in  two  villages,  —  IVehhpool,  on  a  pretty  harbor 
to  the  N.,  and  Wilson's  Beach,  a  populous  lishing-settlement  on  the  S. 
shore,  settled  by  sqiuitters,  in  defiance  of  the  Owens,  who  frequently 
burned  their  houses  and  schooners,  but  were  finally  obliged  to  allow  them 
to  stay.  The  fine  old  Owen  roads  across  the  island  have  been  extended 
by  new  highways  opened  by  the  Campobello  Comp  my,  and  afford  beauti- 
ful drives  across  the  breezy  uplands,  through  leagues  of  silent  evergreen 
forests,  and  out  on  sea-beaten  promontories.  There  are  a  few  profitable 
farms  on  the  island,  and  minerals  are  found  'n  the  hills  and  glens;  but  the 
chief  source  of  income  is  the  fishing  business. 

The  Episcopal  ("hurch  is  ultra-Anglican,  with  its  vicar  praying 

for  the  Queen  and  all  the  Royal  Family,  with  the  usual  English  intonation; 
its  great  chancel- ;arpet,  embroidered  by  the  ladies  of  New  Brunswick,  with 
the  three  feathc  s  of  the  Prince  of  Wales ;  and  its  rich  altar-cloths,  pre- 
sented by  Sister  Portia,  Admiral  Owen's  granddaughter.  The  only  other 
church  on  the  island  is  Baptist.  The  chief  local  holidays  are  the  Queen'a 
Birthday  and  Dominion  Day  (Julv  1). 

Glea  Severn  (the  ancient  Herrimj  Cove)  is  a  lovely  cove  on  the  outer 


^1 


iff 


H 


30  b     Route  78, 


CAMPOBELLO. 


'■     i:^ 


i     ill 


,4horc,  with  hriiliant-hupd  pohblps,  cra<x,£:y  headlancls,  and  a  contipfiiong 
lake  of  fresh  water.  Frinr's  llind^  within  1^  M.  of  tho  Owen,  is  a  rocky 
pillar  in  the  sea,  otT  cliiTs  140  ft.  hi<;ii,  and  badly  battered  by  arClIery. 
luistern  Head,  Harbor  de  Lute,  the  li«.ditlioH?es  at  the  ends  of  tlie  island, 
and  other  intcrestin.ii;  points,  are  vis'ted  by  suninier-sojourners.  The  west- 
ern side  of  Cup'.pobello  fronts  or.  tlie  beauties  of  Passaniaqnoddy  Hay, 
around  wiiieh  apfiear  Lnbec,  Kastport.  and  other  white  viUayes,  with  the 
purple  hills  of  New  Brunswick  in  the  distance. 

Ciimpoht'llo,  the  iinpient  J*(ts.<<nma(jiioff(J!/  fslnnd,  wjis  Rranted  by  the  British 
Crown  to  Ailiiiiral  Uili' un  Fitzwilliani  Owen  in  171)7,  and  that  gentleman  and  his 
lieirs.  of  a  noble  naval  lauiiiy,  occupied  tlie  domain  for  moi'e  than  a  hundred  years. 
Tile  Admiral  buiit  a  quarter  d<'ck  over  the  rocks,  on  which  he  used  to  promenade 
in  full  unitorm.  He  was  hurled  by  candle  light,  in  the  churchyard  of  the  little 
Kpi^copil  church,  where  his  desren(iints  have  sitiee  followed  him.  There  are  num- 
berless quaint  legends  of  the  old  ri'ijunc  liere  ;  of  Sir  Robert  ['eel's  visit,  and  the 
advent  of  Briti-h  frigates;  of  mysterious  wrecks,  pirates,  apparititns,  and  other 
marvels. 

After  A(hniral  Owen  died,  the  estate  fell  to  hi.^  son-in-law,  Captain  Bobinson,  of 
the  Koyal  Navy,  who  thereupon  assumed  the  Owen  uiune  and  settled  upon  the  island 
Tnere  was  great  excitement  here  iu  iSHt),  when  many  armed  Irish  jiatriots  came  to 
Eastport.  a,])parently  with  a  design  of  invading  (^anipobello,  and  twisting  the  tail  of 
the  British  lion.  The  island  was  nearly  deserted  by  its  inhabitants ;  British  frig- 
ates and  American  cutters  cruised  in  tlie  adju'ent  waters;  f<t.  Andrews  and  St. 
Steiihen  wer"  garri.-^oneil  by  British  troops;  and  Genenil  Meade  occupied  Eastport 
with  a  detaolinient  of  United  States  resinlars.  The  last  of  the  Owens  moved  to  Eng- 
land, tired  of  the  monotonous  life  of  the  old  manor-house,  and  in  18H0  Campohello 
was  purchased  by  a  .syndiciite  of  Boston  and  New  York  capitalists,  to  be  made  into  a 
summer-resort.  Besides  the  gre.it  hotels,  many  summer-cottages  and  villas  are  being 
erected  here  by  well-known  families  from  Boston,  Cambridge,  and  other  cities. 

Ti  ■  tiew  development  of  this  remote  island  as  a  summer-resort  has  been 
rapid  and  secure,  and  already  Camnobello  bids  fair  to  become  a  formidable 
rival  of  Mount  Desert,  in  a  fashionable  point  of  view,  although  its  scenery 
is  in  almost  every  way  inferior.  The  novel  and  orii^inal  architecture  and 
equipments  of  the  great  hotels,  and  the  attractiveness  of  their  tjrounds  and 
surroundings  combine  with  the  insular  and  provincial  quaiutnesses  of  the 
islanders  to  make  a  sojourn  here  very  interesting. 

The  Tyn-y-Mais  { "  House  in  the  Field  ")  is  the  latest  built  of  the  great 
hotels  of  CampobcUo. 


H      ,iy 


5.    St  John  to  St.  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen,  —  Passama- 

quoddy  Bay. 

The  steamer  leaves  the  Reed's  Point  Wharf  every  Thursday  and  Saturday,  at  8 
A.  M.,  and  reaches  St.  Stephen  before  dark  She  returns  from  St.  Stephen  every 
Monday  and  Friday  morning.  Fares,  St,  .John  to  St.  George,  $1.76,  to  St.  An- 
drews, .1?  1.50  ;  to  St.  Sto])hen,  Si  176.  This  is  not  a  permaneut  route,  and  is  liable 
to  change  or  discontinuance. 

I);iil>  trains  from  St.  .John,  Fredcricton,  and  all  poiuts  east,  west,  and  uortu  tv 
St.  Andrews  and  St.  Stepueu. 


BAY  OF  FUNDY, 


Route  5. 


zi 


After  '-"ving  the  harbor  of  St.  John  the  steamer  runs  S.  W.  by  W.  9^ 
Tkl.,  passiifj  the  opcMinj^s  of  Manawagonish  Bay  and  Pisarinco  Cove.  The 
course  is  hiid  well  out  in  the  Hay  of  Fundy,  which  "  wears  a  beautiful 
aspect  in  fine  suniuier  weatlior,  — a  soft  chalky  hue  quite  difforeut  from 
the  stern  blue  of  the  sea  on  the  Atlantic  shores,  and  somewhat  approach- 
ing the  summer  tints  of  the  clianncl  on  the  coast  of  England"  Heyond 
the  point  of  Split  liock,  Musquask  Harbor  is  seen  opening  to  the  N.  It  is 
a  safe  and  beautiful  haven,  2  M.  long  and  very  deep,  at  whoso  head  is  the 
pretty  Episcopal  village  of  Musquash  (Musquash  Hotel),  with  several  lum- 
ber-mills. About  two  centuries  ago  a  French  war-vessel  was  driven  into 
this  harbor  and  destroyed  by  a  British  cruiser.  From  Split  Rock  the 
course  is  W.  h  S.  for  11^  M.  to  Point  Lepreau,  passing  the  openings  of 
Cliance  Harbor  and  Dipper  Harbor,  in  which  are  obscure  marine  hamlets. 
In  the  latter,  many  years  ago,  the  frigate  Plumper  was  wrecked,  with  a 
large  amount  of  specie  on  board.  The  harbor  is  now  visited  mostly  by 
lobster-fishers.  Point  Lepreau  is  a  bold  and  tide-swept  promontory,  on 
which  are  two  fixed  lights,  visible  for  18  ami  20  M.  at  sea. 

The  traveller  will  doubfless  be  amazed  at  the  rudeness  and  sterility  of  these  frown- 
in;;  shores.  "  Two  very  ditferent  impressions  in  rej^ard  to  the  Province  of  New 
ISrunswick  will  ho  producod  ou  the  mind  of  the  stranger,  according  as  he  contents 
hiui.M'lf  with  visiting  the  towns  and  inspecting  the  haids  which  lie  along  tne  sea- 
board, or  ascends  its  rivers,  or  |)enetrates  by  its  numerous  roads  i)ito  the  interior  of 
its  im  re  central  and  northern  coiUities.  lu  the  former  case  lie  will  feel  like  the 
traveller  wlio  enters  !5wedea  by  the  harbors  of  Stockholm  and  Gottenburg,  or  who 
sails  among  the  rocks  on  the  western  coast  of  Norway.  The  naked  cliffs  or  shelving 
shores  of  granite  or  other  hardened  rocks,  and  the  unvarying  pine  forests,  awakeu 
in  his  mind  ideas  of  hnjioless  desolation,  and  poverty  and  barrenness  appear  neces- 
sarily to  dAell  within  the  iron-bound  shores But  on  the  other  hand,  if  the 

stranger  penetrate  beyond  the  Atlantic  shores  of  the  Province  and  travel  through 
the  interior,  h(i  will  be  struck  by  the  number  and  beauty  of  its  rivers,  by  the  fertility 
of  its  river  isiand ;  and  intervales,  and  by  the  great  extent  and  excellent  condition 
of  its  roads."'    (Prof.  J.  F.  W.  JoiiNsroN,  F.  R  3.) 

From  Point  Lepreau  the  course  is  laid  nearly  W.  for  16.^-  M.  to  Bliss 
Island,  crossing  the  biglit  of  Mace's  Ba,y,  a  wide  and  shallow  estuary  in 
which  are  tv/o  fishing-liamlets.  The  Saturday  steamer  stop?  on  this  rea^h 
at  Beaver  Harbor,  a  place  of  150  inhabitants.  S.  of  this  harbor,  and  seen 
on  the  1.  of  tlie  course,  are  the  five  black  and  dangerous  islets  called  the 
Wolves,  much  dreaded  by  navigators.  A  vessel  of  the  International  Steam- 
ship Comi) my  was  wrecked  here  two  or  throe  years  ago.  One  of  the 
Wolves  bears  a  revolving  light,  111  ft.  high,  and  visible  for  16  M. 

The  steamer  now  rounds  Bliss  Island  (which  has  a  fixed  red  light),  and 
to  the  N.  is  seen  the  entrance  to  V KUukj  Harbor,  a  deep  and  picturesque 
inlet  which  is  well  sheltered  by  islands,  the  largest  of  which  is  called  Cai- 
tiff. A  few  miles  S.  W.  are  seen  the  rolling*  hills  of  Campubello;  Deer 
Island  is  nearer,  on  the  \V. ;  and  the  bay  is  studded  with  weird-looking 
huminocky  isiauds,  ~  the  Nubble,  White,  and  Spruce  Islands,  the  grim 
trap-rock  raamelon  of  White  Horse,  and  many  other  nameless  rocks. 
They  are  known  as  the  West  Isles,  and  most  of  them  are  inh.;blted  by 
hard-uorkin^^  lisliennen. 


H 


32     Jioute  5. 


ST.  GEOUGE. 


ii. 


St.  George  (three  inns),  a  villaj^e  of  1,200  inhabitants  devoted  to  the 
lumber  niul  granite  trades,  is  at  the  head  the  tide,  4  M.  from  the  sliip- 
harhor  below,  and  stands  on  both  sides  of  the  Magagtuuhivie,  at  the 
Lower  Kalis,  where  tlu;  river  is  compressed  into  a  ehasni  30  (t.  wide,  and 
falls  about  50  ft.  Tlu-so  falls  in  several  steps  furnish  a  water-power  un- 
surpassi'd  in  Canada,  and  along  the  sides  of  the  gorge,  clinging  to  the 
rocks  like  eagles'  nests,  arc  several  mills  in  which  lumber  iwWi  granite  are 
manufactured.  Geologists  have  found  in  this  vicinity  marke-'  evidences  of 
the  action  of  icebergs  and  glaciers.  The  gorge  through  which  the  waters 
rush  with  an  almost  Niagara  roar  has  been  caused  b}'  some  convulsion  of 
nature,  which  in  its  mighty  throes  rent  the  cliffs  asunder,  giving  vent  to 
what  must  have  been  a  great  lake  above.  This  district  Iia.s  become  cele- 
brated for  its  pn.duction  of  a  line  granite  of  a  rose-red  (olor  which  receives  a 
high  polish,  an  1  is  extensively  used  for  ornamental  columns  and  monu- 
ments. It  is  ]ironounced  by  cr,ni])etent  judges  to  be  superior  to  the  Scotch. 
granitf>  of  Peterhead  (popularly  called  "Aberdeen  Granite"),  and  is 
boautifulh'  tinted.  Tlie  construetion  of  the  (Jrand  Southern  Railway 
affords  improved  facilities  for  visiting  tliis  interesting  locality. 

"  T!io  village,  tlie  cataract,  the  lake,  and  the  clevatcil  wiklernesa  to  the  N.,  render 
this  part  of  the  country  ^icculiarlv  pictures^que  ;  indeed,  the  rcighborluKid  of  St. 
George,  the  Diadegua.sli,  Chauicook,  and  the  lower  St.  Croix,  present  the  traveller 
with  fonie  of  the  fine.«t  Fcenery  in  America."     (Du.  Gi:snkr. ) 

liftko  Utopia  is  picturesquely  !-ituated  in  a  deep  and  sheltered  depres.«ion, 
along  whose  slopes  ledges  of  red  gr  nite  crop  out.  It  is  about  1  M.  from  St. 
George,  and  6  M.  long,  and  connects  with  the  .Magaguadavic  River  3  M.  above 
the  village,  by  a  natural  canal  1  ^\  long,  which  is  well  bordered  by  niagnifioent 
forest  trees,  "and  furnishes  a  beautiful  resort  for  boating  parties,  sportsmen,  Jind 
anglers  en  route  to  the  Luk»  The  earliest  pioneers  found  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
and  mysterious  teuiple,  all  tracr^  of  which  "have  now  passed  away.  Here  also  was 
found  a  slab  of  red  granite.  l,"ining  a  large  bas-nlief  of  a  human  head,  in  style  re- 
sembling an  Kgyi»tian  sculptui;',  and  having  a  lilicne>s  to  Washington.  This  re- 
markable meclallion  has  lieen  plu  ;'d  in  the  Natural  History  Museum  at  St.  .iohn. 
For  lu^arly  40  \ears  th"  Indians  and  lu'ubermen  near  the  lake  have  told  Uiai'velUius 
stories  of  a  nuirine  i)ro<ligy  called  "  the  Monster  of  I'topia,"  wliich  dwelLs  in  this 
fair  forest-loch.  His  last  appearance  wi>s  in  1H>;7,  when  several  persons  about  the 
shores  claimed  to  have  seen  furious  dist  ubances  of  the  waters,  and  to  liave  caught 
momentary  glimpses  of  an  animal  10  ft  thick  and  3U  f t  long.  The  lake  abounds  in 
silvery -gray  trout,  and  its  tributary  streams  contain  many  brook-trotit  and  smelt. 

Among  the  hills  along  the  valley  ot  ihe  Magaguadavic  Hivcr  are  the  favorite  haunts 
of  large  numbers  of  Virginian  deer.  Moo c  weie  formerly  abiuidant  in  this  region, 
and  it  is  but  a  few  years  since  over  400  were  killed  in  one  season,  for  the  sake  of  tlieir 
hides.  This  noble  ganu?  animal  ha.s  l)een  nearly  exterminated  by  the  merciless  set- 
tlers, and  will  soon  become  extinct  in  this  district. 

The  Magaguadavic  Kiver  (an  Hidian  name  meaning  "The  River  of  the 
Hills")  ri.ses  in  a  chain  of  lakes  over  80  M.  N  W.,  within  a  short  portage  of  the 
Sheogomoc  River,  a  tributary  of  the  upper  St.  .Ii  hn.  Traveling  the  great  Lake 
of  Magagua..avic  it  descends  through  an  uninhabited  and  barren  highland  region, 
tersely  described  by  an  early  pioneer  as  "  a  seraggly  hole  "'  IMuch  of  its  lower  valley 
is  a.  wide  intervaie,  which  is  sn'jtpos*  d  to  have  been  an  aiuient  lake-bottom.  The 
river  is  followed  closely  by  a  rugged  road,  which  leads  to  the  remote  Harvey  and 
Magaguadavic  settlements. 

After  leaving  the  port  of  St.  Gecsrge,  the  steamer  runs  S.  W.  across 

Passamaquoddy  Bay,  with  the  West  Isles  and  the  heights  of  Deer  Island 

on  the  S.,  and  other  bold  hummocks  on  either  side.    On  the  X.  are  the 


ST.  ANDREWS. 


lioute  5.      33 


voted  to  the 
'om  the  ship- 
la  vie,   at   the 

ft.  wide,  and 
tor-power  im- 
in^iiig  to  the 
lul  f^raiiite  are 
"\  evidences  of 
ich  the  waters 

convulsion  of 
irivinjij  vent  to 
i  become  cele- 
hich  reccives'a 
ns  and  nionu- 
r  to  the  Scotch 

lite  ")5  "i'<l  '^ 
hern   Railwiiy 

ty. 

to  thf  N.,  render 
;liliorlu)oil  of  St. 
iiit  the  traveller 

ercd  depression, 

I  M.    from    St. 
ver  3  M.  above 

by  iiiJiftiiiticeut 
sportsmen,  ami 
ins  of  ail  ancient 
Here  also  was 
oad.  in  style  rc- 
mton.  This  re- 
luin  at  St.  John. 

told  u.arvelUius 

II  dwells  in  thi« 
i>ons  about  the 

to  have  caught 
lake  abounds  in 
lUt  and  smelt. 

favorite  hauuts 
It  ill  this  rejiion , 
Ithe  sake  of  their 
lie  merciless  set- 
lie  River  of  the 
portage  of  the 
I  the  great  Luke 
liiliiiland  regiou, 

its  lower  valley 
Ic-bottom.     The 

3te  Harvey  and 

S.  W.  across 

Deer  Island 

Vq  N.  arc  the 


estuaries  of  the  Digdepfuash  and  Bocabec  Kivers,  and  the  massive  ridge 
of  the  Chanicoolv  Mt. 

St.  Andrews,  the  capital  of  Charlotte 

County,  is  linely  situated  on  a  peninsula  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix 
lliver,  whith  is  here  3  "SI.  wide.  It  has  about  l,8iH)  iuiiabitunts,  and  a  few 
(puet  old  streets,  surroundcid  by  a  M-oad  belt  of  farms.  The  town  was 
founded  about  a  century  ago,  and  soon  acipii.-i'd  considenible  commercial 
importance,  and  had  large  fleets  in  its  harl)or,  loading  witii  timber  for 
Great  Uritain  and  the  West  Indies.  This  era  of  prosperity'  was  ended  by 
tlie  rise  of  the  toAvn  of  St.  Stephei.  and  by  the  operation  of  the  Ueciprocity 
Treaty,  and  for  tnany  years  St.  Andrews  has  been  retrograding,  until  now 
the  wharves  are  deserted  and  diUn)idated,  and  the  houses  seem  anticpiated 
and  neglected.  It  has  recently  attracted  summer  visitors,  on  account  of 
the   pleasant   scenery   and  the  facilities  for  boating   and  tishing. 

The  new  Hotel  Algonquin  is  one  of  the  handsomest  summer-resort:^  on 
the  Atlantic  coast,  and  occupies  hitrli  ground  near  St.  Andrews,  overlook- 
ing a  vast  expanse  of  Passamaqnoddy  IJay.  It  is  visited  by  many  distin- 
guished .^imericans  and  (,'anadians  every  season.  Fogs  are  very 
rare;  summer  nights  are  cool;  and  the  environs  are  lovely.  The  town 
is  laid  out-  in  square  blocks,  and  the  streeti  are  wide  and  kept  in  good 
order.  The  roads  are  e.xcellent  for  driving,  and  from  numy  points  give 
picturesf^ue  views.  The  public  buildini;'s  are  the  court-house,  jail,  rec- 
ord ofiice,  and  marine  hospital;  and  there  are  a  number  of  neat  private 
residences. 

Of  churches  it  has  Presbyterian,  Methodist, 
Baptist,  Roman  Catholic,  and  Church  of  England.  The  "Argyll,"  a 
large  structure,  with  rooms  for  200  guests,  was  opened  in  1881  as  a 
summer-hotel.  It  is  pleasantly  located  on  elevated  ground,  and  con- 
venient to  the  beaches,  where  the  facilities  for  sea-bathing  are  unrivalled. 

Trains  run  to  and  from  St.  Andrews,  connecting 


Boston. 

The  Chamcook  Mt.  is  about  4  31.  N.  of  St.  Andrew,  and  its  base  is 
reached  by  a  good  road  (visito'-s  can  also  go  by  rr'lway  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain).  It  is  often  ascended  by  parties  for  the  sake  of  the  view, 
which  includes  "the  lovely  Passamaqnoddy  Bay,  with  its  little  islands 
and  outline  recalling  recollections  of  the  Gulf  of  Naples  as  seen  from  the 
summit  of  Vesuvius,  whilst  the  scenery  toward  the  N.  is  hilly,  with 
ilcep  troughs  containing  natural  tarns,  where  trout  are  plentiful." 

As  the  steamer  swings  out  into  the  river,  the  little  sliip^building  village 

the  American 


iiOOJitiawn  13  seen, 


the  bold  bluffs  of 


vtaroi  tX.'-JUttvaaa.u^^  u. 


w. 


34       Jioute  5. 


ST.   CROIX  RIVER. 


\^\  ■ 


Chamcook  Mt.  arc  passed,  and  occasional  farm-houses  are  seen  along  the 
phores.  5-6  M.  above  St.  Andrews,  the  steamer  passes  on  the  E.  side  of 
Boucet's  Island,  on  which  a  li<;htliouse  has  been  erected  by  the  Ameri- 
can poverniMcnt.  \V.  of  the  island  is  the  villatre  of  Jied  Btdch,  with  its 
piaster-mills,  and  on  the  opposite  shore  is  the  hirniing  settlement  of  Buy 
tihore. 

In  the  year  lf)04  Henri  IV.  of  France  pninted  a  large  part  nf  America  to  Pierre  tlu 
Guast,  Sieiir  de  Moiits,  and  Uovcrnor  of  I'ons.  Tliis  tract  extcinUd  troui  IMiila- 
deiphia  to  Quelx'c,  and  wan  named  Ana/ie,  wliicli  is  said  to  l)e  derived  from  a  l-xal 
Indian  word.  Di'  Moiits  sailed  from  Havre  in  April,  \vitli  a  motley  eoiiii)any  of  im- 
presHcd  vagabonds,  gentlemen-adventurers,  and  Jluguermt  and  Catholic  clergymen, 
the  latt<;r  of  whom  qnarrelled  all  the  way  over.  After  exploring  parts  of  Nova 
bootia  and  the  Bay  of  Fiindy.  tlie  voyt  gers  ascended  the  Passamaij noddy  Hay  and 
the  river  to  St.  Croix  isle,  when;  it  vas  deterndned  to  found  a  settlement.  Bat- 
teries were  erect/cd  at  each  end,  join-d  hy  jjalisades,  within  which  were  the  houses 
of  D»!  Montsaiid  Chamjilain,  workshops,  magazines,  the  diapel,  and  tlu;  barracks  of 
the  Swi.ss  soldiery.  But  the  winti^r  soon  set  i>i  with  its  intense  cold,  and  the  rav- 
ages of  disease  were  added  to  the  nnseries  of  tiie  colonists,  iin  out  of  79  men  died 
of  the  scurvy  luring  the  winter;  and  when  a  supply-ship  arrived  from  France,  ia 
June,  the  island  was  abandoned. 

*'  It  is  nu  et  to  tell  you  how  hard  the  isle  of  Sainte  Croix  is  to  be  found  out  to 
them  that  never  were  there :  for  there  are  so  many  isles  and  great  bays  to  go  by 
(from  St.  .John)  before  one  be  at  it,  that  1  wonder  how  one  might  ever  iiierce  so  f.ir 
as  to  find  it.  There  are  three  or  tnur  mountains  innnincnt  above  the  others,  on  the 
Bides  ;  ))ut  on  the  N.  side,  from  whence  tlu?  river  runneth  down,  there  is  but  a  sliarp 
pointed  one,  above  two  leagues  distant.  The  woods  of  tlic  main  land  irre  fair  and 
achniifible  high,  and  well  grown,  as  in  like  manner  is  the  grass Now  let  us  pre- 
pare and  hoist  sails.  M.  de  Poutrincourt  niaile  the  voyage  into  these  parts,  with 
some  men  of  good  sort,  not  to  winter  there,  but  as  it  W(>re  to  seek  out  his  seat,  and 
find  out  a  land  that  might  like  him.  Whidi  he  having  done,  had  no  need  to  sojourn 
there  any  longer."  Late  in  the  year,  "  the  most  urgent  things  being  done,  and 
lioary  snowy  fatlier  being  come,  that  is  t()  say.  Winter,  then  they  were  forced  to 
k«'ep  within  doors,  and  to  live  every  one  at  his  own  home.  During  which  time  our 
men  liad  three  sjiccial  disconnnodities  in  tins  island  :  want  of  wood  (for  that  which 
was  in  the  said  isle  was  spent  in  Ijuildings),  lack  of  fresh  water,  and  the  continual 
watch  made  l)y  night,  fearing  some  surprise  from  the  savages  that  had  lodged  them- 
eeives  at  the  foot  of  the  said  island,  or  some  other  enemy.  For  the  malediction  and 
rage  of  many  (Christians  is  such,  that  one  must  take  heed  of  the'Ui  much  more  than 
of  infidels."     (Li'.scaruot's  Nnin-tl/f  France.) 

In  17S'3  the  river  St.  Croix  was  designated  as  the  E.  boundary  of  Maine,  but  the 
Americans  claimed  that  the  true;  St.  Croix  was  the  stream  called  the  Magaguadavic. 
It  then  became  important  to  find  trace.-'  of  I)e  Monts's  settlement  of  180  years  pre- 
vious, as  that  would  locate  the  true  St.  Croix  Itiver.  So,  after  long  searclnng  among 
the  bushes  and  jungle,  the  boundary -connnissioners  succeeded  in  finding  remnants 
of  the  ancient  French  occupation  on  Neutral  (Doucefs)  Island,  ami  thus  fixed  the 
line. 

About  10  M.  above  St.  Andrews  the  river  deflects  to  the  W.,  and  to  the 
N.  is  seen  the  deep  and  spacious  *  Oak  Bay,  surrounded  by  bold  hills,  and 
forming  a  beautiful  and  ijicturesque  pros{)ect.  It  is  supposed  that  the 
French  explorers  named  the  St.  Croix  River  from  the  resemblance  of  its 
waters  at  this  point  to  a  cross, — the  upright  arm  being  formed  by  the 
1  '\  iY  to  the  S.  and  Oak  Bay  to  the  X.,  while  the  horizontal  arm  is  outlined 
by  the  river  to  the  W.  and  a  cove  iuid  creek  on  the  E.  At  the  head  of  the 
bay  is  the  populous  farming-vlllMge  of  Oak  Bay,  with  three  churches. 


Rnnjiil  jjjr 


)n  the  I.  tlio  bold  bluff  called  Dtrirs  Head  (from  one  Duval, 


who  formerly  lived  there),  the  course  is  laid  to  tlie  N.  W.,  in  a  narrow         |L 


ST.    STEPHEN. 


liortte  5. 


35 


een  along  the 
the  E.  side  of 
by  the  AintiTi- 
ifuch,  with  its 
leineiit  of  B(iy 

rira  to  Pierre  du 
(Ud  t'roui  IMiila- 
v»mI  from  a  local 

comimnv  of  iiu- 
holic  cUriijuion, 
|f  parts  of  Nova 
juoddy  Bay  and 
("ttlfuioiit.     IJat- 

wcrt-  tlie  houses 
I  tlu!  Imrracks  of 
jld,  and  the  rav- 

of  79  iiH'ii  died 

IVoui  France,  ia 

be  found  out  to 
it  hays  to  go  by 
ever  jiierce  so  f.ir 
he  others,  on  the 
ere  is  hut  it  sliarp 
land  im;  fair  and 
.  .  Now  let  us  prc- 
these  parts,  with 

out  his  seat,  and 
,0  need  to  sojourn 

being  done,  and 

sy  were  forced  to 

which  time  oui' 

(for  that  which 

id  the  continual 

i.id  lodged  them- 
nialediction  and 

luuch  more  thau 

If  Maine,  but  the 
]e  Magaguadavic. 

)f  180  years  pre- 
Iscarching  among 

inding  remnants 
Id  thus  fixed  the 

Iw.,  and  to  the 
Ibold  hills,  and 
hosed  that  the 
nbhmce  ol"  its 
Iformcd  by  the 
Imn  is  outlined 
|he  head  of  the 
hurches. 
Im  one  Duval, 
I,  in  a  narrow 


channel,  botwcon  sterile  shores.  2-3  M.  above  is  the  antiquated  marine 
hiuiiict  calio(l  The  Ltihje  (1.  bank),  most  of  whose  inhabitants  are  depend- 
ent on  the  sea  for  their  livin^j.  4  M.  above,  the  steamer  reaches  St.  Stephen. 
St.  Stephen  ((2" t'fw  Ilottl)  is  an  active  and  enterprising  provincial  town, 
at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  St.  Croix  Kivcr,  opposite  tlie  American  city 
of  Calais,  and  tiie  Vv'.  terniimis  of  the  fJrand  Southern  Rjiilway  'see  pai^o 
2."))  from  St,  .lolni  (see  also  patre  'M)  h).  Tlio  pnivnlation  !•<  4.000,  witli  6 
cliurciies,  1  newspaprr,  and  2  bank?;.  The  business  of  St.  Stephen  is 
niostiv  c»>mu!Cted  with  the  manufacture  and  sliiiiment  of  lumber.  The 
falls  of  tlie  river  at  this  point  gi\e  a  valuable  water-power,  which  will 
piobaitlv  l)e  devoted  to  .i;i'ueral  mauufacturiui^  purj,oses  after  the  liunber 
supplv  begins  to  fail.  V  covered  bridL'e  connects  St.  Stephen  with  Calais 
{Tlie  Aintrican  Ilnuse  ;  Ht.  Croix  JCxcharyt),  a  small  city  (»f  the  State  of 
Maine,  with  6,000  inhabitants,  7  churches,  2  weekly  papers,  and  2  banks. 
Although  under  ditTerent  flags,  and  separated  by  lines  of  customs-ofhcers, 
S  .  Stephen  and  Calais  form  practically  but  one  coninmnity,  with  identi- 
cal ])ur«nits  and  interests.  Their  citizens  have  always  lived  in  perfect 
fraternity,  and  formed  and  kept  an  agreement  by  which  they  abstained 
from  hostilities  during  the  War  of  1812.  At  that  time  the  authorities  also 
restrained  the  restless  spirits  from  the  back  country  from  acts  of  violence 
across  the  borders.  2-3  M.  above  is  another  Canado-American  town, 
witli  large  lumber-mills  at  tiie  falls,  which  is  divided  by  the  river  into 
Milltown-St.  Stephen  and  Milltown-Calais.  Travellers  wiio  cross  the  river 
either  at  Calais  or  Milltown  will  have  their  baggage  looked  into  by  the 
custonis-orticers,  squads  of  wlioni  are  stationed  at  the  ends  of  the  bridges. 

A  Ilailw.ay  runs  N.  from  St.  Stcplicn  to  Iloulton  and 
Woodstock  (see  Route  B).  Calais  is  coiniected  with  the  Sohoodic  Liikes  by  railway, 
!nid  with  Kiistport  by  stages.  The  U.  S.  Mail-stage  runs  daily  to  IJangor,  95  M.  \V. 
(fire,  !t?7.'jO),  pissing  through  a  wide  tract  of  uno('cu])ied  wilderness.  The  steam- 
b  ):it  leaves  Calais  or  St  Stephen  daily  in  summer,  and  semi  weekly  in  winter,  for 
Kiistijoi't,  where  it  connects  with  the  International  steamships  for  Portland  and 
Boston  (see  also  Itonte  U,  and  A(  /r  Etujiand).     Fares,  Calais  to  Portland, 

®  i.iJO  ;  to  Boston,  by  water,  $5.50  ;  to  Boston,  "by  rail  from  Portland,  §  7. 

The  Schoodic  Lakes. 

A  railway  runs  21  M.  N.  W.  from  Calais  to  Leweifs  Island  (2  inns), 
in  Princeton,  whence  the  tourist  may  enter  the  lovely  and  picturesque 
Schoodic  Lakes.  The  steamer  Gipsey  carries  visitors  12  M.  \\\)  the  lake  to 
Grand  Lake  Stream,  one  of  the  most  famous  fishing-grounds  in  America. 
The  trout  in  Lewey's  Lake  have  been  nearly  exterminated  by  the  voracious 
pike,  but  the  upper  waters  are  more  carefully  guarded,  and  contain  perch, 
pickerel,  land-locked  salmon,  lake-trout,  and  fine  speckled-trout.  The 
Grand  Lake  Stream  is  3-4  M.  long,  and  connects  the  Grand  and  Big 
Lakes  with  its  rapid  waters,  in  which  are  found  many  of  the  famous  sil- 
very salmon-trout.  The  urban  parties  who  visit  these  forest-lakes  usually 
engage  Indian  guides  to  do  the  heavy  work  of  portages  and  camp-build- 


I, 


•  M 

•if .; 

'.,■1 


J^   f 


ill 


f  li 


Ml 


36       Route  6. 


SCHOODTC  LAKES. 


Inrr.  and  to  guido  their  course  from  lake  to  lake.  There  is  a  lar^^o  villar^ 
of  the  Pa-vsamaquodily  tribe  near  tlie  foot  of  Wirt  Lake.  A  two  iioiirs' 
portage  leads  to  Grand  Lake,  a  broad  and  bciautiful  forest-sea,  with 
gravelly  shores,  picturesque  islets,  and  transparent  waters.  Tho  cry  of 
the  loon  is  often  heard  here,  and  a  few  bear  and  deer  still  lurk  along  the 
shores.  From  drand  Lake  a  labyrinth  of  smaller  and  yet  more  remote 
lakes  may  be  entered  ;  and  portages  conduct  thence  to  the  navigable 
tributaries  of  the  Machias  and  Penobscot  I{iv(  rs. 

"  Oii«  of  tlic  most,  pictur«'S(,ue  porti«)iiH  of  tlie  wostcrn  Schoodic  roRion  is  Grand 
Lake.     Tliis  imlih-  shift  of  wiitoris  broki-u  lion;  nud  tlii-re  bvisU-ts  and  surroiiiKli-d 
even  to  tlie  water's  viiav,  with  forests  of  pine  and  hard  wood,  whilct  it-<  iiottoni  is 
covori'd  with  Kninitie  bowlders,  wliicli,  in  eondanution  with  drift,  are  spread  lar  and 
wide  uuioug  the  urljoreal  vejiretation  around    " 

"  Whili!  till-  foK  is  lifting  I, .mi  Schoodic  Lake, 
And  the  wliite  tniut  lire  U-npinfr  Inr  flits, 
It  H  cxcitlni.'  sport  iiiosc  bcai.ilii's  to  take, 
dogging  tho  nerves  and  ieastinK  the  eyes." 

Okvio  C.  Scott. 

6.  St  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen  to  Woodstock  and  Houlton. 

Distances.  —  St.  Andrews  to  Chamcook,  5  M.  ;  Bartlett's.  11 ;  Waweijr,  13  ; 
Roix  Iload,ir>;  Ilewi^s,  li) ;  Ilollinfj  Dam,  20;  Dumbarton,  24;  U'att  .lur.ctiou, 
27  (St.  Stephen  to  Watt  .Innetion,  lit) ;  Lawrence,  2i) ;  llnrber  Dam.  34  ;  McAdani 
Junction,  43  ;  Deer  Lake,  51) ;  ("anterburv.  (J5  ;  Eel  River,  75 ;  Wickham,  80  ;  Debec 
Junction,  00  (Houliou,  08);  Ilodgdon,  08;  Woodstock,  lOl. 

The  coiintrv  traversed  bv  this  line  is  one  of  the  most  irredeomabh  des- 
olate  regions  in  North  America.  The  view  from  the  car-windows  pre- 
sents a  continual  succession  of  dead  and  dj'ing  forests,  clearings  bristling 
with  stumps,  and  funereal  clusters  of  blasted  and  fire-scorched  tree-trunks. 
The  traces  of  human  habitation,  which  at  wide  intervals  are  seen  in  this 
gloomy  land,  are  cabins  of  logs,  where  poverty  and  toil  seem  the  fittest 
occupants;  and  Nature  has  withheld  the  hills  and  lakes  with  which  she 
rudely  adorns  other  wildernesses.  The  sanguine  Dr.  Gesner  wrote  a  vol- 
ume inviting  immigration  to  New  Brunswick,  and  describing  its  domains 
in  language  which  reaches  the  outer  verge  of  complaisant  optimism;  but 
in  presence  of  the  lands  between  the  upper  St.  John  and  St.  Stephen  his 
pen  lost  its  hyj)erbolical  fer\'or.  He  says:  "Excepting  the  intervales  of 
the  stream,  it  is  necessary  to  speak  with  circumspection  in  regard  to  the 
general  quality  of  the  lands.  Many  tracts  are  fit  for  little  else  but  pas- 
turage." This  district  is  occupied,  for  the  most  part,  by  the  remains  of 
soft-wood  forests,  whose  soils  are  always  inferior  to  those  of  the  hard- 
wood districts. 

For  a  short  distance  beyond  St.  Andrews  the  railway  lies  near  the 
shores  of  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  affording  pleasant  views  to  the  r.  Then 
the  great  mass  of  Chamcook  Mt.  is  passed,  with  its  abrupt  sides  and 
rounded  summit.  Waweig  is  between  Bonaparte  Lake  and  On):  Bay 
(see  page  84).    About  7  M.  beyond,  the  line  approaches  the  Digdeguash 


if  -1 


iii 


ST.  JOHN   TO  BANGOR. 


Ruute  7.       37 


i  two  hours' 
ist-sea,  with 
The  cry  of 
rk  nloiic;  the 
more  rcmoto 
10  nuvigiible 

I'ftion  Is  Grand 

id  mutouikUmI, 
i  it-<  liottoin  is 
Hpruud  liir  und 


k'OTT. 

[  Houlton. 

;  AVaweig,  13  ; 
Vatt  .luuctiou, 
1.34;  Me  Adam 
uiin,  80 ;  Dobec 

|oomnbly  des- 
iiulows  pre- 

ngs  bristling 
trec-truuks. 
soeti  in  this 

m  the  fittest 
1  which  slie 
^\•rote  a  vol- 
its  (loiniiins 

(timism ;  but 
Stephen  his 

interviiles  of 

regard  to  the 
Ise  but  pas- 
e  remains  of 
of  the  hard- 
ies near  the 
he  r.  Then 
)t  sides  and 
lid  Oal:  Bay 
Digdeguash 


River,  which  it  follows  to  its  source.  At  Watt  Junction  the  St.  Stephen 
IJrancli  Kuilway  comes  in  on  the  1.,  and  the  train  passes  on  to  McAdam 
Junction,  where  it  intersects  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  (page  .38). 
Tiiere  is  a  restaurant  at  tills  station,  and  the  passenger  will  have  time  to 
dine  while  the  train  is  waiting  fur  the  arrival  of  the  trains  from  Bangor 
and  from  St.  John. 

The  forest  is  again  entered,  and  the  train  passes  on  for  16  M.  until  it 
roaches  tho  Inmber-statioti  at  Deer  Lake.  The  next  station  is  Cnnt»r- 
bnry,  near  the  beautiful  Skiff  Lake.  Kunning  N.  W.  for  10  >L,  the  Kel 
Kiver  is  c^os^ed,  and  at  Dchec  Junction  the  passenger  changes  for  Wood- 
stock. A  tram  runs  thence  8  M.  N.W.  to  Houlton  (Sntll  Iloase),  the  shire- 
t(»\vu  of  Aroostook  ('ounty,  ^Nlaiuc,  witii  4,000  inhabitants,  2  papers,  opt-ra 
house,  electric  lights,  water-works,  and  a  noble  view  from  the  old  fort  on 
(i.trrison  Hill.  Tiie  other  train  runs  N.  E.  down  the  valley  f  the  South 
Itiook,  and  in  about  0  M.  emerges  on  the  highlands  above  the  valley  of 
the  St.  John  Kiver.  For  the  ensuing  5  M.  there  are  beautiful  views  of  the 
river  and  its  cultivated  intervales,  presenting  a  wonderful  contrast  to  the 
dreary  region  behind.  The  line  soon  reaches  its  terminus  at  the  pretty 
village  of  Woodstock  (see  Route  11). 

7.    St.  John  to  Bangor. 

Distances. —  St.  .John;  Carleton,  J  M. ;  Fairville.  4;   South  Bay,  7;   Grand 

T'av.  12;  Westfield,  16;  Nereitis,  20 ;  Wolsford,  26;  (larendou,  30;  Gasper.?aux, 
8};  I'hiui.-^killen,  3) ;  l£<).vt,3ii:  lilissville,  42  ;  Frederutou  .lunotion,  46 ;  Tracyj 
4l> :  (,'(irk,  til;  Harvey,  66;  Majjafjuadavif,  76;  McAdai'i  .Junction  85;  .St.  Croix, 
lU  ;  Vaiicelioro',  92;  ,laokso!i  Ih-ook,  112;  Danfortli,  li7;  Hancroft,  126;  King- 
i"aii,  139;  Mattawanikea;^,  147;  Winn,  1">0 ;  Lineohi  Centre,  159;  liincoln,  161, 
I'nfUld,  170;  l'assadunikea<j;,  175;  Olamon,  179;  Greenbush,  182;  Costiffau,  1H7', 
Miltnrd.  192;  Ol.ltown,  193 ;  Great  Works,  194  ;  Webster,  196;  Orono,  197;  Basin 
Mills,  198;  Vcazie.  201;  Haiiy;or,  205.  (Newport.  2'.^:  Watervilh-,  260;  Augusta, 
L'8I;  Brunswick,  315;  Portland,  343;  Portsmouth,  395;  Newburyport,  415;  Bos- 
ton, 451.) 

The  traveller  takes  the  train  at  the  terminal  station.  The  line  ascends 
through  the  North  End,  giving  extensive  views.  The  St.  John  River  ia 
crossed  near  the  Falls,  on  the  great  and  lofty  cantilever  bridge  of  steel, 
built  in  lfc85.  Formerly  passengers  were  ferried  across  from  Carleton  to  St. 
John.  The  train  soon  reaches  Fairville,  a  growing  towu  near  the  i'roviucial 
Lunatic  Asylum  and  the  Suspension  Bridge.  There  are  numerous  lumber- 
mills  here,  in  the  c-nves  of  the  river.  The  train  sweeps  around  the  South 
IJay  on  a  high  grade,  and  soon  reaches  the  Grand  Bay  of  the  St.  John 
Kiver,  beyond  which  is  seen  the  deep  estuary  of  the  Kennebecasis  Bay, 
with  its  envinmment  of  dark  hills.  The  shores  of  the  Lonf/  Reach  are  fol- 
lowed for  several  miles,  with  beautiful  views  on  the  r.  over  the  placid 
river  and  its  vessels  and  villages  (see  also  page  41).  To  the  W.  is  a 
sparsely  settled  and  rugged  region  in  which  are  many  lakes, — Loch 
Alva,  the  Pobiu  Hood,  Sherwood,  and  the  Queen's  Lakes. 


*M 


-I,  I 


M 

;  I         i 


I       ■'' 


>'•      'i'i 

1'' 


in 


38       y?0M/f7.  CIIIPUTNETICOOK   LAKES. 

The  lino  loiivps  tlio  I.onp  Uoiich,  nnd  tunin  to  the  N.  W.  up  the  vulley 
of  the  Nerepia  Fiiver,  whicli  is  followed  as  fur  us  the  Imnilet  of  \\\l»/i>rd 
(siniill  inn).  Tlu'  count ry  now  jn'ows  very  tatno  and  uninterestirijr,  »«  the 
I)ou>;las  Valley  is  ascended.  Clarendon  Is  7  M.  from  the  Clarendon  Sot- 
tleiucnt,  with  its  new  homes  wrested  from  the  savjijre  forest.  FrDin  (ias- 
pereaux  a  wa<;on  eonvi'vs  pas'<en^ers  to  the  Snuth  (h'omvvto  Lakv,  lu-  12 
M.  S.  W.,  amo!ig  the  highlands,  a  secluded  sheet  of  water  ahout  f>  M.  long, 
uhoundiny  in  trout.  Uevond  the  lumber  station  of  Knniskilleii,  the  train 
p  sses  the  prosperous  villap;e  of  Hlissville;  and  at  Frtdericton  Junction  a 
coniuH-tion  is  made  for  Frederieton,  ahout  20  M.  N. 

Tntvi/'s  Mills  is  the  next  stoppini^-place,  and  is  m  duster  of  lumher-mills 
on  the  Oromocto  River,  which  traverses  the  vill  ,e.  On  either  side  are 
wide  tracts  of  unpopulated  wilderness;  and  ader  crossing  the  parish  of 
New  Maryland,  the  line  enters  Marmers  Sutton,  passes  the  Cork  Settle- 
ment, and  stops  at  the  Ilarvci/  Settlement,  a  rngped  district  occupied  by 
families  from  the  borders  of  Kntrland  and  Scotland.  To  the  N.  and  N.  W. 
are  the  Hear  and  Cranberry  Lakes,  allbrding  ^ood  finning.  A  road  leads 
S.  7  -  8  ^L  from  Harvey  to  the  Oromooto  Lake,  a  fine  sheet  of  water 
nearly  10  >L  long  and  3-4  M.  wide,  where  many  large  trout  are  found. 
The  neighboring  forests  contain  various  kinds  of  game.  Near  the  N.  \V. 
shore  of  the  lake  is  the  small  hamlet  of 'Iweedside.  The  Bald  Mountnin, 
"near  the  Harvey  Settlement,  is  a  great  mass  of  porphyry,  with  a  lake 
(probably  in  the  crater)  near  the  summit.  It  is  on  the  edge  of  the  coal 
measures,  where  they  touch  the  slate." 

Magaguadavic  station  is  at  the  foot  of  Magaguadnvic  Lake,  which  is 
about  8  M.  long,  and  is  visited  by  sportsmen.  On  its  K.  shore  is  the  low 
and  bristling  Magaguadavic  IJidge;  and  a  chain  of  smaller  lakes  lies  to 
the  N. 

The  train  now  runs  S.  W.  to  McAdam  Junction  (restaurant  in  the  sta- 
tion), where  it  intersects  the  railway  from  St.  Andrews  to  Woodstock.  6 
M.  beyond  McAdam,  through  a  monotoiunis  wilderness,  is  St.  Croix,  on 
the  river  of  the  same  name.  After  crossing  the  river  the  train  enters  the 
United  States,  and  is  visited  by  the  customs-officers  at  Vanceboro'  (  Vavce- 
boro^  House).  This  is  the  station  whence  the  beautiful  lakes  of  the  upper 
Schoodic  may  be  visited. 

The  Chiputnetfrook  Lakes  are  about  45  M.  5n  length,  in  a  N.  W.  course, 
and  are  from  ,'4  to  10  M.  in  widtli.  Tlioir  imviu;ation  is  very  intricate,  by  reason  of 
the  multitude  of  islets  and  islands,  narrow  passages,  coves,  and  deep  inlets,  which 
diversity  of  land  and  water  allords  beautiful  combinations  of  scenery.  The  islands 
are  covered  with  cedar,  lu'mlock,  and  birch  trees;  and  the  bold  highlands  whidi 
shadow  the  lakes  are  also  well  wooded.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  features  of  the 
scenery  is  the  abundance  of  bowlders  and  ledges  of  fine  white  griinite,  either  seen 
through  the  tninsparent  waters  or  i.inngthe  shore  like  massive  ma.sonry.  "Uni- 
versal gloom  and  stillness  reign  over  these  lakes  and  the  forests  around  them." 

Beyond  Vanceboro'  the  train  passes  through  an  almost  unbroken  wilder- 
ness for  56  M.,  during  the  last  16  M.  following  the  course  of  the  Mattar 


.it 


ST.  JOHN  RIVFR. 


Route  8.       89 


1  tlio  viiUcy 

Ktiiijr,  us  tlio 
iroiuloii  Set- 
Fi-nni  (Jas- 
L„kv,  10-12 
jtu  M.  l"iij:, 
iMi,  tho  train 
>n  Junctiun  a 

luinl)or-inill9 
tlior  side  aro 
the  parish  of 
Cork  Settle- 
occupied  by 
N.  and  N.  W. 
A  road  leads 
hect  of  water 
lilt  aro  found, 
[ear  the  N.  W. 
hild  Mountain, 
witli  a  hike 
fro  of  the  coal 

lake,  ^vhic>h  \9 
liore  is  the  low 
lakes  lies  to 

Int  in  the  sta- 
K''oodstock.  6 
\St.  Cvvix,  on 
Jain  enters  the 
t)oro'  (  Vance- 
I  of  the  upper 


.  N.  W.  course, 
jto,  bv  reui'on  of 
Ip  inlets,  whirh 
L.  The  isluuds 
[phlantls  which 
Ifcatures  of  the 
lito,  cither  seen 
Isonry.  "Uni- 
\\  them." 

Iroken  wilder- 

)f  the  Mattar 


wttn'.konj;  Hivor.  At  Mattawamkeag  tho  Canadian  Pacillc  Railway  jrocs 
o<l  to  Moo.Hcliead  l.ake  and  Moiitrcai.  'I'he  Maine  Ceiitnii  Uailway  fol- 
lows the  I'enohscot  River,  traversing  n  Hucces!<ion  of  Ihinly  fiopidated 
Imnheriiig  towns.  Forty-live  miles  helow  Muttawainkeaf^,  the  Tcnoltscot 
In  crossed,  and  the  train  reaches  Oldtown  (two  inns),  n  phicc  of  al)out 
4,000  iidiabitants,  lar^rdy  en^^ajjfcMl  in  the  lumber  business.  The  traveller 
aliould  notice  here  tlie  innnensc!  and  costly  i)ooins  and  nulls,  oru!  of  which 
Is  the  larjifest  in  the  world  and  has  100  sawa  at  work  cutting?  out  planks. 

On  iin  islimd  just  at)r)ve  Oldtown  Is  tho  homo  of  tlio  Tiirnitiiio  Indians,  fonnerly 
the  must  jiowerfiil  ami  warlilu'  of  tin'  Northern  tribes.  They  were  at  hrsl  well-iiis- 
pKsetl  towanis  the  cnldiii-ts,  hut  after  a  series  of  wrongs  and  insults  they  t(Mik  up 
aims  in  bi'S,  and  inllietid  such  terrible  daniii^e  on  Mie  settlements  that  >iaiiie  be- 
eatne  tribntiiry  tofhein  l)y  tie  I'e.ice  of  ('asco.  Alter  destrovini;  t  he  fortress  of  Peui- 
ni|uiil  to  aven^'e  an  insult  to  their  ehiif,  St.  Castin,  they  remained  ijuiet  for  many 
years.  The  treaty  of  1720  luntains  the  substiinect  of  their  piesent  rela  ions  with  tho 
State.  The  deelensiuu  of  the  tribe  was  marked  for  two  eenturles:  but  it  is  now 
slowly  inereasini^.  The  peo|>le  own  tlu!  islands  in  the  I'enohseot,  ;  d  have  a  .ove- 
nue  of  .*!•)  -  7,tK)0  from  the  State,  which  the  nu'U  eke  out  by  wo^kin^c  on  the  hi  d)er- 
Mfts,  and  by  hunting  , 'Mid  lishin>i,  while  the  women  make  biiskets  and  otl.  •  rifles 
for  sale.  The  island-vill;ij;e  '\*  without  streets,  luul  eonsi>ts  of  nuuiy  smai  housea 
built  n.ouiid  a  Catliolic  church.  There  are  over  400  ih-tsous  here,  most  of  whom 
are  half-breeds. 

Below  Oldtown  the  river  Is  seen  to  he  filled  with  boon.s  and  rafts  of 
timber,  and  lined  with  saw-mills.  At  Orono  is  tho  State  Ajrricultural 
College;  and  soon  after  passing  Veazie  the  train  enters  the  city  of 
Bangor. 

For  descriptions  of  Ranixor,  the  Penobscot  River,  ami  the  rout''  to  Bos- 
ton, see  Sweetser's  New  Enyland. 

8.  St.  John  to  Fredericton.  —  The  St.  John  River. 

The  steamers  David  Weston  and  Acndia,ot  the  Union  Line,  leave  St.  John(Indian- 
town)  at  i)  A.  M.  daily.  See  also  Rouies  ;i  and  lO.  The.»e  ves.sels  are  comfortahly 
fitted  up  for  passengers,  in  tlu!  manner  of  the  sniallc"  lio.its  on  the  Hudson  Uivi  r 
Dimier  is  served  on  ho  ird  :  aiid  Fredericton  is  re.icb*  !  !  te  in  the  jifternoon.  On 
AVei  nesday  and  Saturday  tnivePerscan  a.scend  the  rivL'  to  Ilampst-ad,  83  M.,  and 
rcttu-n  to  St.  John  the  same  day  on  the  boat  bound  down,  which  leaves  t'rederictoa 
at  .^  A.M. 

The  scenery  of  the  St.  .Tohn  River  is  pretty,  and  has  a  plefisinj?  pastoral  quiet- 
ness. The  elemen'  of  the  landscapes  are  simple  :  the  settleuuiuts  are  few  and 
small,  and  at  no  time  will  the  traveller  find  his  attention  violently  drawn  to  any 
passing  object.  Then^  are  beautiful  views  on  the  Long  lleaeh,  at  Helleisle  Hay, 
and  dining  the  approach  to  Fredericton,  but  the  prevahnit  character  of  the 
scenery  is  that  of  ([uiet  and  restful  rural  lands,  hy  which  it  is  i)leasant  to  drift  on 
a  balmy  summer-day.  ('ert;ii!i  provinci.il  writers  have  done  a  mischief  to  the  St. 
.hihn  hy  bestowing  upon  it  too  extravagant  praise,  thereby  i)reparing  a  disappoint- 
iiient  for  such  as  helieved  their  report.  One  calls  it  "  the  illiine  of  America,"  and 
another  prefers  it  to  tlie  IIud<on.  This  is  wide  exaggeration  ;  but  if  the  traveller 
would  enjoy  a  tranquillizing  and  luxurious  journey  through  a  pretty  farming  coun- 
try, abounding  in  mild  diversity  of  sc(>nery,  he  should  devote  a  day  to  this  river. 

l>istances.  — (The  steamboat-landings  liear  the  names  of  their  owners,  and  the 
following  itinerary  bears  reference  rather  to  tho  vill.ages  on  the  shores  than  to  the 
stopping-places  of" the  boats.)  St.  .John;  Brundage's  Point,  10  M.  ;  Westfield,  17  ; 
Greenwich  Hill,  19;  Oak  Point,  25;  Long  Reach,  20;  Tennant's  Cove  (Belleisle 
Bay),  29;  Wickham,  32;  Hampstead,  33;  Otnabog,  41:  Gagetown,  50;  Upper 
Gagotown.  58  ;  Maugerville,  72  ;  Oromocto,  75  ;  Glaaier's,  81 ;  Fredericton,  86. 

Fares.  —  St.  Joau  to  Fredericton:,  if  1.      • 


I  ^ 

V     ■   ' 

•V 


^  t  .. 


i?0W<<3  5. 


KENNEBEC  AS  IS  BAY. 


This,  river  was  called  Lonshtnok  (Long  River)  by  the  Etchemin  Tmlians,  and 
Ouani;oiii/if  }iy  tlio  Micniacs.  It  is  siijjposi'd  to  have  been  vi.sited  by  De  Monts, 
or  otiier  cxplonTs  at  an  early  day,  and  in  the  cniiiinissidM  of  the  year  1598  to  the 
Lieut  -Oeiieial  of  Acadia  it  is  called  La  liirii're  de  Id  (jrandi'  FUiii .  But  no  exam- 
ination was  made  of  the  upi)er  waters  until  j^t.  . John's  Day.  lti()4,  wiien  tlie  Frencli 
licet  under  De  Monts  and  I'outrincourt  entered  the  jireat  river.  In  honor  of  tlie 
tiaint  on  wliose  festival  the  exjiloration  was  i)c;run,  it  was  then  entitled  the  St  Jolin. 
After  .^iieiidiiiff  several  weeks  in  ascendinjr  the  stream  and  its  connected  waters,  tlie 
di-eoverers  sailed  away  to  the  south,  iiearinj;  a  flood  report  of  the  chief  river  of 
Acadia.  De  Monts  expi'cted  to  find  i)y  this  course  a  near  route  to  Tadousac,  on  the 
Sa^uenay,  ami  therefon;  sailed  up  as  far  as  tlie  depth  of  water  would  j)ermit.  "  The 
extent  of  this  river,  the  fish  with  whicli  it  wjis  filled,  tlie  frrai)^\s  trrowiiiK  on  its 
banks,  and  the  l»eauty  of  its  scenery,  were  all  ohje(;ts  of  wonder  and  admiration." 
At  a  suhse(}uent  day  the  fierce  struf;i!;les  of  the  French  seifrneurs  were  wajred  on  its 
shores,  and  the  inviiding  fleets  of  New  England  furrowed  its  tranquil  waters. 

The  St.  John  is  the  chief  river  of  the  Maritime  Provinces,  and  is  over  4.'')()  M. 
in  lenirth,  being  navigable  for  steamers  of  ] ,000  t(ms  for  Oi)  M.,  for  light-draught 
steamers  270  M.  (with  a  hnjak  at  the  (Jrand  Falls),  and  for  canoes  for  neiirl.,  its 
entin;  extent.  It  takes  its  rise  in  the  great  Maine  forest,  near  the  sources  of  the 
Penobscot  and  the  (Jhaudiirc;  and  from  the  lake  which  heads  its  8.  \V  Branch 
the  Indian  i'oi/ni(fiirs  carry  their  canoes  across  the  Mejarmette  Portage  and  launch 
them  in  the  ('haudiere,  on  which  they  descetid  to  Quebec.  Flowing  to  the  N.  E. 
for  over  150  M.  through  the  Maine  forest,  it  receives  the  Allagash,  8t.  Francis,  and 
other  large  streams  ;  and  from  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Francis  nearly  to  the  Grand 
I'alls,  a  distance  of  75  M.,  it  forms  th(>  frontier  between  the  United  States  and 
Canada.  It  is  the  chief  member  in  that  great  .system  of  rivers  and  lakes  which  has 
won  for  New  Brunswick  the  distinction  of  being  ''  the  most  finelj'  watered  country 
in  the  world.'"  At  Madawaska  the  course  changes  from  N.  E  to  S.  E  ,  and  the 
sparsely  settled  IV.  W.  counties  of  the  I'rovince  are  travei-sed,  with  large  tributaries 
coming  in  on  eithei'  side.  During  the  last  50  M.  of  its  course  it  receives  the  waters 
of  the  great  basins  of  the  (!ran<l  and  Wasliademoak  Lakes  and  the  Belleisle  and 
Kennebecasis  Bays,  which  have  a  parallel  direction  to  the  N.  E.,and  allbrd  good 
facilities  for  inland  navigation.  The  tributary  streams  are  connected  witli  those  of 
tin;  Gulf  and  of  the  B.ay  of  Chalear  l)y  short  portages  (which  will  be  mentioned  iu 
couueetion  with  thoir  points  of  departure). 

Iinniediutely  after  leaving;  the  clock  at  St.  John  a  fine  retrospect  is 
given  of  the  dark  chasm  below,  over  which  the  light  and  graceful  suspen- 
sion-bridge and  the  railway  steel  cantilever  bridge  are  placed.  Kunning 
up  by  Point  Pleasant,  the  boat  ascends  a  narrow  gorge  with  high  and 
abrupt  banks,  a.  whose  bases  are  large  lumber-inills.  On  the  r.  is  Budr^s 
Head,  a  picturesque  rocky  promontory,  in  whose  sides  are  quarries  of  lime- 
stone; 3-4  M,  above  Indiantown  the  broad  expanse  of  Grand  Bay  is  en- 
tered, and  South  Bay  is  seen  opening  on  the  1.  rear. 

The  Kennebecasis  Bay  is  now  seen,  opening  to  the  N.  E.  This  noble 
sheet  of  water  is  from  1  to  4  M.  wide,  and  is  nuvigable  for  largo  vessels 
for  over  20  M.  It  receives  the  Kennebecasis  and  Hammond  Kivers,  and 
contains  several  islands,  the  chief  of  which,  Lonr/  Island,  is  5  M.  long, 
and  is  opposite  the  village  of  Rothesay  (see  page  22).  I'he  K.  shore  is  fol- 
lowed for  many  miles  bv  the  truck  of  the  Intercolonial  liailvvav. 

The  testimony  of  the  ro'-ks  causes  .scientists  to  believe  that  the  St.  .John  formerly 
emptied  by  two  mouths,  —  through  the  Kennebecasis  and  the  Marsh  Valley,  and 
through  S'>ut!i  Bay  into  Msmawagonish  1!ay,  —  and  that  the  breaking  down  of  the 
present  channel  through  the  lofty  hills  W.  of  St.  .lohn  is  an  event  quite  recent  in 
geological  history.  The  ImUans  still  preserve  a  tradition  that  this  barrier  of  hills 
waa  once  unbroken  and  served  to  divert  the  stream. 


St. 


LONG  REACH. 


Route  8.       41 


idians,  and 
l)e  Monts, 
1598  to  the 
t  110  oxiun- 
thc  French 
\onor  of  the 
he  St.  John. 
i  waters,  the 
liief  river  of 
,us!ic,  on  the 
nuit.   "The 
owhiR  on  its 
athniration. 
Wilfred  on  its 
Alters. 

,  over  450  M- 
lijriit-ilruutiht 

for  neiirl,  its 
sources*  of  tiie 
S  \V  l^ranch 
2e  and  launch 
J  to  theN.E- 
t  Vrancis.  and 

to  the  Grand 
cd  States  and 
akes  which  has 
•atered  country 

S  E  ,  and  tiie 
lariro  trihutaries 
fives  tiu"  waters 
u>  Helleisle  and 
u,d  atVord  pood 
P,l  witii  those  of 

be  uieutioued  lu 

retrospect  is 

•acefiil  suspeu- 

^.etU    lUunung 

Mth  higli  and 

he  r.  is  Boar's 

jarries  of  li"ie- 

^nd  Bay  is  en- 

Tbis  noble 
large  vessels 

|i.\  Rivers,  and 
is  5  M.  lf>i'?' 

Ik.  sbore  is  ibl- 

jvvay. 

It  John  formerly 
irsh  Valley,  and 
iinjr  down  ot  the 
It  quite  recent  ni 
■    barriei'  ot  uuis 


On  the  hanks  of  the  placid  Kennebecasis  the  ancient  Micmac  legends  locate  the 
home  of  file  (ireat  Heaver,  "feared  hy  beasts  and  men,"  whom  (Jlooscap  finally 
coiKiuered  and  put  to  dcvitii.  In  this  vicinity  dwelt  the  two  Gifat  Hrothers,  (ii,oos- 
CAi'  and  M.u.si'Nsis,  f)f  unknown  ori'^iii  and  invincible  power.  Glooscap  kiu  w  that 
his  hrotlier  was  viUiieralde  only  hy  tlie  touch  of  a  fern-root  ;  and  he  iiad  told  Mal- 
sunsis  (falsely)  tliat  the  stroke  of  an  owl's  feather  would  kill  iiiin.  It  caiiK!  to  pass 
that  Malsuiisis  determined  to  kill  his  brotiier  (whether  tempu'd  tlius  by  Mik-o,  the 
Si|uirrel,  or  hy  (iuali-lieet-e-sis,  tli(>  son  of  the  Great  IJeaver,  or  hy  his  own  evil  am- 
bition) ;  wherefore  witli  his  arrow  he  siiot  Ivoo-koo-skoos,  the  Owl,  and  witii  one  of 
his  feathers  struck  the  sleepiti;^  Glooscap.  Tliun  he  awoke,  and  reproached  Malsitn- 
sis,  but  aftt'rwanU  told  him  t.iat  a  l)lo\v  from  th((  root  of  a  pine  would  kill  him. 
'i'heii  the  traitorous  uiiiii  led  his  brother  on  a  hunting  excursion  far  into  the  forest, 
and  while  ho  slept  ho  smote  him  with  a  i)iiie-root.  But  the  cautious  (rlooscap  arose 
unharmed,  and  drove  Malsun-is  forth  into  tlie  forest;  then  sat  down  by  the  brook- 
side  and  said  to  himself,  "  Naught  but  a  tlower'ug  rush  can  kill  me.''  Mus(iuash, 
the  Ueaver,  hidden  among  the  sedge,  heard  ^iiese  words  and  reported  them  to  Mal- 
suiisis, who  promised  to  do  unto  him  even  as  he  sliouM  ask.  Therefore  ilid  Mus- 
(I'.iash  say,  "  Give  unto  me  wings  like;  a  jMgeon."  But  the  warrior  answered,  "  (Jet 
thee  hence,  thou  with  a  tail  liko  a  tile  ;  what  need  hast  thou  of  pigeon's  wings  ? " 
and  went  on  his  way.  Then  the  Beaver  was  angry,  and  went  forth  unto  the  camp 
of  (llooscap,  to  whom  he  told  what  he  iiad  done.  And  by  reason  of  these  tidings, 
Glooscap  arose  and  took  a  root  of  fern  and  sought  iidsunsis  in  the  wide  iind  gloomy 
forest:  and  when  Ik;  I'.ad  found  him  hesmoto  liimso  that  he  fell  down  dead.  ''  And 
Glooscap  sang  a  song  over  him  and  lamented." 

Now,  therefore,  Glooscap  ruled  all  beasts  and  men.  And  there  came  unto  him 
tliree  brothers  seeking  that  he  would  give  them  great  strength  and  long  life  and 
imicdi  stature.  Then  a.sked  he  of  them  whether  they  wished  these  things  that  they 
niig'it  benefit  and  counsel  men  and  he  glorious  in  battle.  But  they  said,  "  No;  we 
seek  not  the  good  of  men,  nor  care  we  for  others."  Then  he  offered  unto  them  suc- 
cess in  battle,  knowledge  and  skill  in  diseases,  or  wisdom  and  suhtlety  in  counsel. 
But  they  woulil  not  lieavk(!n  unto  iiiin.  Therefore  did  Glooscap  wax  angry,  and 
said:  "Go  your  ways:  you  shall  have  strength  and  stature  and  length  of  days." 
And  while  they  were  yet  in  the  way,  rejoicing,  "lo  I  their  feet  hecame  rooted  '^'^  the 
ground,  and  tlieir  legs  stuck  together,  and  their  necks  shot  uj),  and  they  were 
turned  into  three  cedar-trees,  strong  and  tall,!:udeuduriug  beyond  the  day  sof  men, 
but  destitute  alike  of  all  glory  and  of  all  use." 

Occasional  glimpses  of  the  railway  are  obtained  on  the  1.,  and  on  the  r. 
is  the  large  island  of  Kennehecasis,  wliicli  is  separated  from  the  Kingston 
peninsula  by  the  Millvisli  Cliannel.  Then  the  shores  of  Land's  End  are 
passed  on  the  r. ;  and  on  tlie  1.  is  the  estuary  of  tlie  Nerepis  River.  At 
tliis  point  the  low  (but  rocky  and  alpine)  ridge  of  tlie  Nercpiti  TlUh  crosses 
the  river,  running  N.  E.  to  Bull  Moose  Hill,  near  the  head  of  Belleisle 
Bay. 

The  steamer  now  changes  her  course  from  N.  W.  to  N.  E  ,  and  enters  the 
Long  Reach,  a  broad  and  straight  expanse  of  the  river,  16  M.  long  and 
1-3  M.  wide.  The  shores  are  higli  and  bold,  and  the  scenery  has  a  lake- 
like character.  Beyond  the  iiamlots  r  f  Westfield  and  Greenwicli  Hill,  on 
the  1.  bank,  is  the  rugged  and  forest-covered  ridge  known  as  the  DevW's 
7i  !ck,  an  olT-spur  of  the  minor  Alleghany  chain  over  the  Nerepis  Valley. 
Abreast  of  the  wooded  Foster's  Island,  on  the  E.  shore,  is  a  small  ham- 
let clustered  about  a  tall-spired  church.  Caton's  Island  is  Just  above  I'o.s- 
ter's.  and  in  vn  tlie  \V.  shore  is  seen  the  pretty  little  village  of  Oak  Point 
(Lacey's  inn),  with  a  lighthouse  and  the  spire  of  the  Episcopal  church  of 
St.  Paul.     Farther  up  is  the  insulated  intervale  of  Grassy  Island,  famous 


^Wn 


•,  1^' 


t  1-  it': 


i'  .» 


"  . 


dl 


42        lini'fe  S. 


IJELLEISLK    r,AY 


for  its  YH'h  liiiy,  which  nuiy  he  seen  in  iintunin  stMckcd  nil  alorifj  tho  slioro. 
Tho  stoiiiner  now  jjmsscs  through  the.  coiitriictcd  chaiiiicl  oil"  Mistiiken 
Point,  wiu'i-c  the  river  is  nearly  elose(l  hy  two  narrow  iteninsulas  which 
j)roject  towarils  each  otiier  from  tlie  opposite  sliores. 

n<^ll<>iMl<>   Itiiy  turns  to  tlic  N   K.  just  alievc  ^MistjiUeu  Point.     Tlio  pstiinry  is 
nt'iirlv  liiildcii  liv  :i  Inw  islfiud  iind  tiy  a  I'dtindcMl  prnninnttirv  (in  tlif  r. ,  licvond  which 


tlu'  t>av  cxtcnils 


th(>  N.  K    tor  rj-l!M.,  with  a  unifniin  widtii  ol' 1  M.      It  is  navi- 


fraldc  tnr  tin-  lariiot  vcssols,  and  is  Imrdcn  d  hy  wdoilcd  hills.  On  the  S.  shore  near 
the  mouth  is  Kiu;;sli>n  ("reel;,  whieh  leads  S.  in  ahout  f")  M.  to  Iilii|ist«i]i  (two 
inns),  11  se(|iiestered  villajie  of '200  inhahitants,  roniantieallv  situated  anions;  the  liills 
in  the  centre  of  the  iKMiinsular  [laiish  of  Kin;:ston.  This  ])cninsula  preserves  an 
almost  uniform  width  of;")-  (1  .M.  for  ;iO  M  ,  hetween  the  Kennehecasis  ISay  and  river 
on  the  S.  !•",.  and  the  Kon^r  Heaeh  and  Helieisle  Ilay  on  the  N.  W  'l"he  scenery, 
thousih  never  on  a  <j;rand  scale,  is  pleasant  and  hold,  and  has  many  tine  water  views. 


A  few  n 


Iv  of  Kinu'ston  is  the 


arkahle  lakelet  callcil  the  rid,  icnnlir,  t ,  (\crvi- 


l)yint;  an  extinct  crater  aiKl  .-urrounded  hy  volcanic  ro* 


This  district  was  orifri- 


iially  .-etlled  )>y  American  Lo.salists,  and  for  many  year>  Kinixston  was  the  cajiital  of 
KiiiLTS  County.     The  villaire  is  most  easily  reaclieil  from  Rothesay  (se(>  pap>  2'J). 

T(iiii(i>it\s  Coir  \ti  ii  small  baptist  villaire  at  the  N.  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay  ; 
wlicnce  a  roail  l(>ads  in  ;"»  M.  to  the  hamlet  of  Htl/fislc  [iai/  on  the  N.  shore  (nearly 
opjio^ile  l.onjj;  I'oint  villajie) ;  from  which  thel)ay  road  runs  in  J} -4  M.  to  the  iarpjer 
Haptist  si'ftlement  at  Siirairii's  I'oint,  whence  much  cord-wood  is  sent  to  St  .lolm. 
4  M.  he\ond  is  S/irim^Jii  />/  (small  inn),  the  laru'cst  <d'  the  lielleisle  villajres,  situated 
n(\ar  the  liead  of  the  bav,  and  7  .M.  from  Norton,  on  the  Intercolonial  llailway 
(Houte  Iti). 

At  tlie  liead  (^ftlie  l.nvr  h'eai'Ii  n  <;ranite  ridee  turns  the  river  to  tlie  N. 
and  \.  \V.  and  narrows  it  tor  several  miles.  4-")  M.  above  lUdloisle  Uay 
Spoon  Island  is  passed,  above  wliicdi,  on  the  r.  bank,  is  the  shipbuilding 
Innnlet  ol"  W'u-kJnun.  A  short  distaiiee  l)eyond,  on  the  W.  bank,  is  Ilnmp- 
stetul,  with  several  mills  and  a  i;ranite-(piarry.  The  .shores  of  the  river 
now  beeome  more  low  and  level,  and  the  fertile  m(\ido\.s  ..j'  Lovf/  Idand 
are  coasted  for  nearly  '>  M.  This  ])retty  island  is  dotted  with  ohn-trcH^s, 
and  C(»ntains  two  lariiv  iio;ids.  On  the  niainhind  ( W.  shore),  near  its  head, 
is  the  hamlet  of  Oinnlnuj^  at  the  month  of  a  river  which  empties  into  a  lake 
3  M.  lonix  and  1-2  M.  wide,  connected  with  the  St.  .Tolm  by  a  narrow 
passage.  The  boat  next  passes  the  Lower  Musrpiash  Island,  containiiifj  a 
lar<i;e  pond,  and  hi<lin<};  the  outlet  of  the  Wds/iadcmodk'  Lake  (see  Rout^?  d). 

"  This  part  of  tlio  Province,  includinjj  the  lands  around  tbedrand  Lake  and  alnug 
the  Washademoak,  must  become  a  v»ry  iiopulousjind  I'icli  country.  .\  n'reat  i>roi)or- 
tion  of  tlu>  land  is  intervale  o'lUn   ial,  and  coal  is  found  in  irrcat  plenty,  near  tiie 

(irand  Lake Nojiart  of  America  can  exhibit  p;reater  beauty  or  more  luxuria^Tt 

fertility  than  the  lands  on  e.ach  side,  and  the  islands  that  we  pass  in  this  distance." 
(Mc(.<ri;c!Oh's  British  ADierica.) 

After  p!tssin<;  the  Upper  Musquash  Tslaml,  the  steamboat  rounds  in  at 
G<i(/e(oini  (2  inns),  a  villaee  of  300  inhabittints,  ])rettilv  situated  on  the  W. 
bank  of  the  river.  It  is  the  shire-town  of  (Jueen's  County,  and  is  theshippinfr- 
point  for  ti  broad  tract  of  farming-country.  After  leaving  this  point,  the 
steamer  passes  between  Grimross  Neck  (1.)  and  the  level  shores  of  Cam- 
bridge (r. ),  and  runs  by  tli(>  month,  of  tlie  Jemseg  River. 

About  the  year  lii40  tlie  French  seigneur  erected  at  the  mouth  of  the  Jemso,^  a 
fort,  ou  whose  ramparts  were  12  iron  guns  and  6  "  murtherers."    It  was  provided 


MAUGERVILLK. 


Jioute  8.       43 


I 


tho  shore. 
■  Mi>tnkpn 
ulus  which 


10  pstiinrv  Is 
u'joiul  wliich 
It  is  iiiivi- 
S.  sliort'  iiriir 
i^st<in  (two 
loiiK  tin,'  liills 
]in'scrv('s  im 
15iiy  ami  rivor 
'ril(<  sc'fuory, 
I'  water  vii'ws. 
■(Utki't,  (iccu- 
rict  was  orijri- 
tl\t"  cavital  of 
jiafxc  22). 
ic  to  tli<>  I'ay  -, 
,  slKiri'  (nearly 
.  to  till-  lavfror 
it  to  St   .lolni. 
lup:(w,  situated 
lunial  Railway 

vor  \o  tho  N. 

Ui'lleislo  \^'^\ 
sliiphuihling 

nk,  is  llnmp- 

;  of  the  river 
I  Am  (J  hhnd 
th  ehn-trcec, 
icnr  its  head, 
's  into  ji  lake 
)y  11  narrow 
containing  a 
sec  Rout^.  9). 

j.ake  ami  along 
l\  jjreat  pro]Mir- 
leiity,  near  tiic 
lun'e  liix'.u'iaiit 
Ithis  distance." 

Ironnds  in  at 

lotl  on  the  W. 

[theshipping- 

lis  point,  the 

Ires  of  Cam- 


the  Jemw?!?  » 
was  provided 


with  a  court  of  guard,  stono  barracks  and  niat^azines,  a  panlen,  and  a  chapel  "  G  paces 
S(iuare,  with  a  hell  weii^liiii^;  IS  jioinids."  In  l(ir)4  it  was  captured  hy  an  expedition 
sent  out  liy  Oliver  Cromwell;  hut  was  yielded  up  hy  Sir  'i'lionias  Temple  to  the 
SeifiUiMir  de  Soulanjres  et  Miu'son  in  lti7f>.  In  Kill  it  was  taken  and  jilundered  hy 
"  a  Flemish  <'orsair.''  The  SeiL:;iiiory  of.lemsejj:  was  jrrante  I  hy  the  French  Crown  to 
the  ancient  Breton  family  of  Damour  <les  (JhaiVour.  In  ItiSiJ  it  was  occunied  l)y  tho 
seiunorial  family,  and  in  l^DS  there  were  fiO  jierMiiis  settled  hei'c  under  its  auspices. 
In  17I51(  tiie  lord-hip  of  this  district  was  held  hy  the  Marquis  dc  VaudreuiL  who  had 
llti  colonists  in  t!ie  domain  of  Jeniseir.  ]n  Idirj  it  was  made  the  capital  of  Acadia, 
miller  the  ('ommiind  of  M.  d(!  A'illelion  ;  and  after  tlu;  removal  (d'the  seat  of  jrovern- 
mciit  to  Fort  Nashwaak  ( I'rcdericton"),  tlie  .iemscfi;  foi't  sulfcreil  tlie  vicissitudes  of 
British  attack, atid  was  finally  ahandoned.  Ahout  the  year  177<),  *)<)()  Tndian  warriors 
gathered  here,  designing  to  devast  it(!  the  St.  John  valley,  hut  were  deterred  hy  tho 
resolute  front  made  hy  tlu!  colonists  from  tho  Oromocto  fort,  and  were  tinally  ap- 
peased and  (juieted  by  large  presents. 

The  Jemseg  River  is  the  outlet  of  Grand  Lake  (spe  Route  10).     Beyond 

tliis  point  tlie  steamer  runs  X.  W.  by  (Iriniross  Islami,  and  soon  ]»asses  tho 

hamlets  of  Canning  (r.)  and  Upper  Gagetown  (1.).    Above  ^h^uger's  Ishuid 

is  seen  tiio  tall  spire  of  Burton  church,  and  the  boat  calls  at  ^Shejjitld,  the 

seat  of  the  Sheiru'ld  Academy. 

"  Tho  whole  river- front  of  the  parishes  of  MauG^erville,  Sheffield,  and  Water- 
borough,  an  extent  of  nearly  liO  >!.,  is  a  remarkaMy  line  alluvial  soil,  exactly  re- 
sembling that  of  Hattersea  fi-l  Is  and  t!ieT\\ickenh:nn  r.ieado>vs,  stretching  from  tho 
river  generally  ahout  2  M  Tliis  tract  of  intc'rvale,  i;ichidi:ig  the  three  noble  islands 
opposite,  is  deservc'dly  called  tlie(!arden  of  N(!\v  15run:<'.vick,  and  it  is  by  far  the 
most  considerable  tract  of  alluvial  .soil,  formed  hy  fresh  water,  in  the  Province." 

Above  SheOield  the  steamer  nasses  Middle  Island,  whicli  is  3  M.  long, 
ami  ])ro(luces  nnich  hay,  and  calls  at  Miiiif/crrillc,  a  ipiiet  Imvland  village 
of  300  inhabitants.  On  the  opposite  shore  is  Oromocto  (two  inns),  tho 
capital  of  Sunbury  County,  a  village  of  4O0  inhabitants,  engaged  in  ship- 
building. It  Is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oromocto  River,  ■which  is  navigable 
fur  22  M. 

The  settlement  of  Maugcrville  was  the  first  which  was  formed  by  che  English  on 
the  St.  .Jolui  Hiver.  It  was  established  in  17t)3  by  fimilies  frou\  Massachu.'(!tts  and 
Connecticut,  and  iiad  over  hK)  families  in  1775.  In  Miy,  177<),  the  inhabitants  of 
Sunbury  County  assembled  at  Maugcu'ville,  and  resolved  tliat  the  colonial  policy  of 
the  British  Parliament  was  wrong,  taat  the  United  Provinces  werc>  justili(!d  in  re- 
sisting it,  tliat  the  county  slujidd  be  attached  to  .Massaclui.setts,  and  that  men  and 
money  should  he  raised  for  the  American  service  :  saying  al  o,  "  we  are  Heady  with 
our  Lives  and  fortunes  to  Share  with  them  the  Kv(Mit  of  the  present  Struggle  for 
liiberty,  ho.vever  (Jod  in  ills  Providenci!  may  order  it."  These  resolutions  vvero 
signed  by  all  but  12  of  the  people;  and  Mas.s:ichusetts  soon  sent  them  a  quantity  of 
anununition.  At  a  later  day  Col.  Kd  ly,  with  a  detachment  of  Mass.  troops,  ascended 
the  St.  .hdin  River  to  ^Iang(!rville,  where  he  met  with  a  warm  widcome  and  was 
joined  by  nearly  M  men. 

Oromocto  was  in  early  days  a  fivorit(>  resort  of  tlu^  Indians,  one  of  whose  great 
cemeteries  has  recently  been  found  heri'  When  tiie  hostile  tribes  concentrated  on 
the  .lemseg  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  were  ))reparing  to  devastate  the 
rivi'r- towns,  the  colonists  erected  a  large  fortilii'atiou  near  the  mouth  of  the  Oromocto, 
and  took  refug"  there.  Tiiey  nude  sucdi  a  bol  I  front  that  the  Indians  retired  and 
disbanded,  after  having  rei'onnoitreit  the  '.vori<s, 

''  I'he  rich  meadows  are  decorateil  with  stately  elms  and.  forest  trees,  or  sheltered 
by  low  coppices  of  cr:!nb!'rry,  iilder,  ami  oth(<r  native  hushes.  'J'hrough  the  numer- 
ous openings  in  the  shrubbery,  the  visitor,  in  traversing  the  river,  sees  the  wldte 
fronts  of  the  cottages,  and  other  buildings  ;  and,  from  the  constant  change  of  po-i- 
tion,  in  sai  ing,  an  almost  endless  variety  of  scenery  is  jiresimted  to  the  traveller's 
eye.    Daring  the  summer  i»e;u>ou  the  surface  of  the  water  alTords  an  interesting 


44      Jit^ute  8. 


FREDERICTON. 


Il^i 


spectacle.  Vast  rafts  of  timber  and  loirs  are  slowly  moved  downwards  by  the  cur- 
rent. Numerous  cauoe.s  hiiU  boats  are  in  uiotiou,  while  the  piuldU-s  of  the  ^teiiuiboat 
break  the  polisiied  surface  of  the  stream  and  send  it  rippliii^t  to  the  snore  In 
tlie  uiid.-^t  of  this  land>caiie  ('tand.'!  B'redcrictdn,  situated  on  an  obtuse  level  point 
formed  by  the  bending  of  the  river,  and  iu  the  midst  of  natural  and  cultivated 
scenery."     (GtsNKU.) 

Fredericton. 

Hotels. —  Queen  Hotel;  Rarker  House,  Queen   St. ,.?  2.50  a  day. 
St  ,  iifl.OO  a  da.v  ;  Long's  Hotel,  .'S1.50;  ('onnnercial  Hotel,  and  others. 

^taues  leave  tri-weekly  for  Woodstock  ^t5i;  M.  ;  fare,  !if  2.50). 

Kailwti>  8.  —  to  St.  John,  in  6t)  M.,  fare  ^  2. 

to  Woodstock  (63  M),  Aroostook,  Edmundston  (17(5  M  ),  and  Riviere  du 
Loup.     Fare  to  Woodstock,  ^j!  2.00  (paue  50).  Canada  Eastern    Uailwav,  to 

Chatham  (IIG  M.),  see  page  47.  The 'railway  bridge  over  the  St.  Jonn  (finished  in 
1888)  made  possible  a  union  station  at  Fredericton. 

St.fanil>oati*.  —  Daily  to  St  .lohn.  .stopping  at  the  river-ports.     Faro.  .«  1  00. 
In  spring,  early  summer,  and  autumn,  when  the  river  has  enough  wnter,  the  8teain« 
boat  Ftorenceville  runs  from  Fredenctou  Go-70  M.  N.  \V.  to  Woodstock, 

FuKDEKiCTON,  the  Capital  of  the  Provivice  of  Now  Brunswick,  is  a  sniall 
city  pleasantly  situated  on  a  level  ])lain  near  the  St.  John  Kiver.  it 
has  6,500  inhahitants,  with  live  newspapers  and  four  banks.  It  is  prob- 
ably the  quietest  place,  of  its  size,  north  of  the  Potomac  River.  The 
streets  are  broad  aiKl  airy,  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  are 
lined  with  tine  old  shade  trees.  The  city  has  few  nuvmifacturing  interests, 
but  serves  as  a  siiipping-point  and  depot  of  supplies  for  the  young  settle- 
ments to  the  N.  and  W.  Its  chief  reason  for  being  is  the  presence  of  the 
ofKces  of  the  Provincial  Goverinnent,  for  which  it  was  founded. 

Queen  St.  is  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and  runs  nearly  parallel 
with  the  river.  At  its  W.  end  is  the  Government  House,  a  ])lain  and  spa- 
cious stone  building  situated  in  a  pleasant  park,  and  used  for  the  oflicial 
residence  of  the  Lieuicnant-Governor  of  New  Brunswick.  Nearh'  in  the 
middle  of  the  city,  and  between  Queen  St.  and  the  river,  are  the  Military 
Grounds  and  Parade-ground,  with  the  large  barracks  (accommodating 
1,000  men),  which  were  formerly  the  head(iuarters  of  the  British  army  in 
this  Province.  Near  the  E.  end  of  Queen  St.  is  the  Parliament  Buildinfj, 
a  nandsomc  modern  freestone  structure,  from  whose  top  a  fine  view  is 
obtained.  It  contains  tlie  spacious  halls  of  the  Lower  House,  Legislative 
Council,  and  Sui^n  me  Court  (with  its  law  library).  The  Legislative 
Library,  in  a  fire-proof  building  adjacent,  contains  15,000  volumes,  includ- 
ing Louis  TMiilippe's  copy  of  Audubon's  "Birds"  (open  during  session, 
and  on  Wednesday  altcrnoons).  The  chief  wealth  of  Fredericton  is  em- 
ployed in  lumbering,  and  there  are  great  booms  above  and  below  the  city, 
with  an  important  British  and  West-Indian  trade. 

*  Christ  Church  Cathedral  is  a  short  distance  beyond  the  Parliament 
Building,  and  is  embowered  in  a  grove  of  tine  old  trees  near  the  river 
(corner  of  Church  and  Queen  Stti.).  It  is  under  the  direct  care  of  the 
Anglican  Bishop  of  Fredericton,  and  its  style  of  construction  is  modelled 


M\ 


FREDERICTON. 


EoiUe  8.       45 


by  the  cur- 
ie iteiiiuVioat 
3  siiortf  In 
!  level  point 
d  cultivated 


d  Riviere  du 
1  Uailwav,  to 
u  (finished  in 

Varo.  «  1  fO. 
er,  the  steam- 

;k. 

k,  is  a  pnisiU 
I  Kiver.     It 
It  is  i)n)l)- 
River.     The 
iies,  and  are 
lug  interests, 
young  settle- 
isence  of  the 
id. 

larly  parallel 
|ain  and  spa- 
r  the  ofiicial 
early  in  the 
the  Military 
■ommodating 
isli  army  in 
\nt  Buildin<j, 
fine  view  is 
I,  Legislative 
Legislative 
mcs,  includ- 
ing session, 
licton  is  em- 
,ow  the  city, 

Parliament 

tar  the  river 

care  of  the 

is  modelled 


after  a  certain  charming  old  par^jh-church  in  England.  The  beauty  of  the 
English  Gotijic  architecture,  as  here  wronglit  out  in  fine  gray  stone,  is 
heightened  by  tlie  picturesque  etVect  of  the  surrounding  trees.  A  stone 
spire,  178  ft.  higl),  rises  from  the  junction  of  the  nave  and  transepts.  Tl  e 
interior  is  beautiful,  though  small,  and  the  cliancel  is  adorned  witli  a 
superb  window  of  Newcastle  stained-glass,  presented  by  the  Episcopal 
Church  in  the  United  States.  It  represents,  in  the  centre,  Christ  cruci- 
fied, with  ^'S.  John,  James,  and  Peter  on  tiie  1.,  and  SS.  Tliomas,  Philip, 
and  Andrew  on  the  r.  In  the  cathedral  tower  is  a  chime  of  8  bells,  each 
of  wh'ch  bears  th'"  inscription  : 


"  Ave  Pater,  Rex,  Creator, 
Ave  Kili,  Lux,  Salvator, 
Ave  Spirit\i3  Coiisolaior, 
Ave  Be(>ta  L'nitus. 


Ave  Simplex,  Ave  Trine, 
Ave  Regiiuns  in  Suliliine, 
Ave  Kfsunet  sine  tine, 
Ave  Sancia  Trinitas." 


St.  Ann's  is  a  pretty  Episcopal  Church,  at  the  \V.  end;  and  in  1883  the 
Baptists  and  Presbyterians  erected  fine  stone  churches.  IJetween  Queen 
8*  and  the  river  are  th'  substantial  City  Hall  and  Post-OtHcc,  ai.d  the 
well-equipped  Normal  School,  where  the  teachers  of  the  Province  are 
trained. 

The  University  of  New  Brunswick  is  a  substantial  freestone  building,  170 
ft.  long  and  GO  ft.  wide,  occupying  a  fine  position  on  the  hills  which  sweep 
around  the  city  on  the  S.  It  was  establislied  by  royal  charter  in  18-28, 
while  Sir  Howard  Douglas  ruled  the  Province;  and  was  for  many  years  a 
source  of  great  strife  between  the  Episcopalians  and  the  other  sects,  the 
latter  making  objection  to  the  absorption  by  the  Anglicans  of  an  institu- 
tion which  had  been  paid  lor  by  the  wlu)le  people.  It  is  fairly  end<  wed 
by  the  Province,  and  does  an  important  work  in  carrying  on  the  higher 
education  of  the  country,  despite  the  conq)etition  of  denominational  C(d- 
leges.     The  view  from  the  University  is  thus  described  by  Prof.  Johnston : 

**  From  the  high  ground  above  Fredericton  T  ngain  felt  how  very  delightful  it  is  t# 
feast  the  eyes,  weary  of  stony  barrens  and  (erpotual  pines,  upon  the  beautiful  rivcv 

Sfc  .lo!in Calm,  broad,  clear,  just  vi;-ibly  tlowing  on  ;  full  to  :>    banks,  and  re- 

Hccting  from  its  surface  the  graceful  American  elms  which  at  intervals  fringe  its 
shores,  it  has  all  the  beauty  of  a  long  lake  without  its  lifelessness.  Hut  its  acces- 
sories are  as  yet  chii  tly  those  ot  nature,  —  wooded  ranges  of  hills  varied  in  outline, 
now  retiring  from  and  now  approaching  the  water's  edge,  with  an  occasional  clear- 
ing, and  a  rare  white-washed  house,  with  its  still  more  rarely  visible  inhal>inints, 

and  stray  cattle In  some  respects  this  view  of  the  St.  Jolni  recalled  to  my 

mind  some  of  the  points  on  the  Russia  i  .iver  (Neva):  though  among  European 
pcenery,  in  its  broad  waters  and  forests  of  pines,  it  most  r*'  iinbled  the  tamer  por- 
tions of  the  sea-arms  and  tiords  of  Sweden  and  Norway." 

St.  .]fn7'ifs  and  Niifi<wanksis  are  opposite  Frodericton,  on  the  1.  bank  of 
the  St.  John,  and  are  reached  by  bridges.  Tiiey  are  on  the  New  Bruns- 
wick lutilway  (to  Woodstock).  At  Marysville  are  the  great  lumber-mills 
and  cotton-mills  of  Alex.  Gibs 


with  the  statelv  church  and 


'omiOruioie 


iriTne'5  \ 


v.liKu  ue  nas  erected  for  his  workmen.     Nearlv 


opposite  the  citv 


IS  seen 
disbanded 


the  mouth  of  the  Nashwaak  River,  whose  valley  was  settled  bv 


1 


soldiers  of  the  old  Black  Watch  (■12d  Highlanders). 


40       Routes, 


FFEDERICTON. 


ill: 


\W 


In  tho  vir  1^30  tho  French  powrnmont  Pont  out  the  ChovnlitT  do  Villchon  as 
OovcTMiir  "i  i'  I  (.  I.  WluMi  \w  anivt'tl  at  l':>rt  Kciyal  (Auniiiwlis).  his  cuiiital,  lit) 
found  that.  .  '  U  /''imn  l'|ii|ips's  Ncw-Kn^'land  Hcct  had  ictcntly  (apturt'il  and  do- 
i<tr<)Vt'd  it«  t(,  '!'<■  atitins,  ^o  he  .isccndtd  thf  St  .lolin  Kivcr  and  socmi  fixed  h^^  rajti- 
tal  at  Na>li\vaaK,  wiu're  In-  rcmaiuod  lor  .cveral  years,  oigauizinjj;  JinK.Ui  'oiu\i'  uii 
tlie  scttlcliK'litS  of  ^h^ile. 

til  (»t  toiler,  lti!)(i,  an  An^rlo-Anievieun  anny  aseended  thu  St.  .ifniin  in  t!ie  nhiim 
Aniiirlfl,  /'((U'//i(r,  and  others,  and  iuid  sic^ic  to  Fort  Nnsiiwaak.  Die  Tin  'alicr  do 
Villebon  dresv  ap  Ids  (jarris(Mi,  and  uddrcsMil  them  wiili  cnihuslu  nu  iii'd  the  i\v- 
taeliinents  were  jiut  in  (dnirr"  of  tin  Sieurs  de  la  ('ote,  Til  'erj!;e,  and  ('hj;»i>i'.'onr'^ 
Tlio  UritiHli  royal  standard  «as  disjilayed  over  th(?  hesiep  -s'  wor...  ,  aixi  i.;r  thn  e 
days  a  heavy  lire  t>f  artillery  and  nni-ketry  wa;  kept  up.  i'lie  preeiion  of  the  liro 
from  [ia  Oote's  battery  disnionided  the  hostile  L'un>',  and  ait  r  seeir./  Hie  Sieur  de 
Falai.se  reinfone  the  fort  from  Quebec,  the  Ih'itisli  v.m  «  up  th;-  'i-go  and  retretited 
dowu  the  riv'jr. 


f] 


1    ;5:! 


t[ 


Thi'  villape  of  St  Anno  wn.<«  oroetod  hero,  under  tJie  |  rot.'-Mon  of  Fort  Na'ihv  .lak. 
It:;  Mtv  'lad  been  visited  by  Do  Monts  in  lfiU4,  during  his  i  \p)(«iiitinii  of  the  river. 
In  17"'"i'ind  later)  the  p'-aee  was  erowdeu  uifli  Aeaduui  r*  tufif'^i  flei-iii^'-  ffi.iu  the 
cterii  v:'  i  ations  "f  !ii!}iry  N.  «  ICnpland  on  the  Minus  and  I'l'it  I'nyal  district.-  'a 
37H'  nuw  the  e.riicd  AuieriefM:  Loyalists,  who  drove  away  the  Aeadiaji^  into  iho 
vildernes.'*  id  M  :.|:.v\i,-ka,  and  settled  uhiij;  these  shores.  Dnrinp;  the  iullowing 
year  <iov.  Guy  O.ai  ■  '.«  ii  i>t  illished  t'.-  capital  of  the  Province  here,  in  view  of  the 
cen'.ral  ioeation  anu  }.'c:i-!;i!  uaturni  features  of  the  place  Since  the  formation  of 
the  Caui'tlian  SJomiuii.M,  :iu(i  Uve  couju nuent  withdrawal  of  tht.'  British  garritou, 
Fredericioii  lici^  becoiiK  t  iimant. 

7  M.  abfvi"-  Fn- l<vlet;in  is  Auhjnque^  the  favorite  homp-distriet  of  the  ancient 
Indi;ais  of  tlw  viver  The  name  sigidtiis  "  a  lu>autifui  e\|)uiiso  of  the  river  c-ansed 
by  numerous  i-lands."'  On  the  island  o  Sandons  were  the  fortifhations  and  quar- 
ters uf  the  Ami  rieau  forces  in  1777,  when  tin-  St  Wohn  Kiv(>r  was  held  by  the  expe- 
dition of  t  (•!.  Allan.  They  reached  Aukpaiiue  on  the  5tli  of  dune,  and  saluted  the 
new  American  *lag  with  .salvos  of  artillery,  while  the  resident  Jndi  uis,  under  Am- 
brose St  Anbi!.,  their  "  aupust  and  noble  chief,"  welcomed  them  and  their  cause. 
They  patrolled  '  ;h'  river  with  puard-bo.'its,  aided  the  patriot  residents  on  the  banksi, 
aul  watched  tin  mouth  of  St.  John  harbor.  After  the  camp  on  Aukpaque  had 
been  established  about  a  month  it  w.is  broken  up  by  a  British  naval  force  from 
bi-l'V,  and  Col.  Allan  led  away  alout  Ta'O  ])eople,  patriot  Provincials,  Indians,  and 
tht>i-  families.  This  great  extidus  is  one  of  the  most  romantic  and  \et  least  known 
jn;'ident.s  of  the  American  borders.  It  was  conducted  by  canoes  uj)  the  St.  John  to 
the  ancient  French  tradinjr-post  called  \oYt  ^h'ductic,  wlience  they  carried  their 
boats,  I'aunlie.*',  and  liouselvtld  goods  acro^.-  a  long  portage  ;  then  they  ascended  the 
i*apid  .Mel  River  to  its  reservoiv-lake,  from  whose  head  another  iiortnge  of  4  M.  led 
thi>n)  to  North  I'ond.  The  long  procession  of  exiles  next  defiled  into  the  Grand 
liake  and  encamped  for  several  days  at  its  outlet,  after  wliich  they  descended  the 
Chiputneticook  hake  and  the  St.  Croix  River,  passed  into  the  Lower  Schoodic  Lake, 
and  thence  carried  their  families  and  goods  to  the  Jiead-waters  of  the  Ma(  bias  River. 
Fioating  down  that  stream,  they  reached  Machias  i  iu  time  to  aid  in  beating  off  the 
British  squadron  from  that  town. 

1  Machine  is  snirt  to  be  (icrivcd  from  tho,  Fronch  word  Mdffes  (monnins  tho  Mapi,  and  it 
it;  l\eld  that  i:  wis  discovered  by  the  ancient  Fren'^h  explorers  ou  the  Fest^'ul  of  the  Alagi. 


■II  •:-'[: 


WASHADEMOAK   LAKE. 


Soute  9.      47 


y 


(MlloV)OTi  as 
•aiiital,  he 
I'll  and  cU'- 
(l  \\h  caiii- 

,    I'ulUN  '•■  Oil 

I  tho  Hluiia 
li<  valur  .le 
!;(!  the  <te- 
^Clln'."OUr^. 
1(1  i:;v  thvti; 
I  of  thr  firo 
lie  Sifiir  lie 
id  retreated 


,  Niishv  aak, 
if  the  riviT. 
i^  in-lK  ♦lie 
;st,ru-ti..  'Q 
\w  into  »lio 
lie  iullosving 
view  (if  tlio 
forniiition  of 
sh  garrisou, 

the  ancient 
river  caused 
lis  and  quar- 
by  tlie  exi'C- 
|l  saluted  the 

under  Am- 
.  tlu'ir  cause, 
n  the  banlt!^, 
|ilq>aiiue  had 
,1  tone  from 
Indians,  and 

least  known 
St.  John  to 

arried  their 
ascended  tlie 
p  of  4  M  •  led 
[o  tlie  Grand 
lescended  the 

[hoodie  Lake, 

iichias  ll'-ver. 

atiug  off  the 


Mapi',  and  it 
loi  the  Magi. 


Frovi  Frederictun  to  thf  Miramichi. 

By  the  Ounftda  Eastern  Railway. 

Stations. —  (iliiHon  (Ficdericton)  to  M'rjsville,  3  M. ;  DurhRm,  14;  Cross 
Creek,  25;  Hoiestown,  47 ;  Doaktown,  63;  Tiliswfleld,  67;  Blackville,  87 ;  Chatham 
Junction,  105;  Chatham,  110. 

This  route  traverses  the  lonely  forest  for  many  leacc"©",  through  a  thinly 
settled  country.  To  the  west  are  the  immense  domains 

of  the  New  iirunswick  Land  Compiiny,  on  which  a  few  strugpjlin^  settle- 
ments are  located.  In  the  earlier  days  there  was  a  much-travelled  route 
between  the  St.  John  valley  and  the  Miramichi  waters,  by  way  of  the 
Nashwaak  River,  from  whose  upper  waters  a  portage  was  made  to  the 
adjacent  streams  of  the  Miramichi  (see  "  Vacation  Tourists,"  for  1862-3, 
pp.  464-474).  Forty-seven  miles  from  Fredericton  the  line  reaches  Boie»- 
town  (small  inn),  a  lumbering-village  of  250  inhabitants,  on  the  S.  W. 
Miramichi  River.  This  place  was  founded  in  1822,  by  Thomas  Boies  and 
120  Americans,  but  has  become  decadent  since  the  partial  exhaustion  of 
the  forests. 

9.  Washademoak  Lake. 

Pfm»"V,^^t,  oern^ion-'llv  run  from  St.  John  to  this  point,  a  distance  of  60  M.    A 
regular  line  formerly  plied  on  this  route,  but  it  was  given  up  some  years  sinoe. 
lu  lc:90  steamers  ran  from  St.  John  to  Cole's  Iblaud  thrice  a  wetk. 

The  steamboat  ascends  the  St.  John  River  (see  page  39)  to  the  upper 
end  of  Long  Island,  where  it  turns  to  the  N.  E.  in  a  narrow  passage  be- . 
tween  the  Lower  Musquash  Island  and  the  shores  of  Wickham.  On  either 
side  are  wide  rich  intervales,  over  which  the  spring  inundations  spread 
fertilizing  soil;  and  the  otherwise  monotonous  landscape  is  enlivened  by 
clusters  of  elms  and  maples.  After  following  this  pas.  age  for  1^  M.,  the 
o.  amer  enters  tho  Washademoak  Lake,  at  this  point  nearly  2  M.  wide. 
The  Washademoak  is  not  properly  a  lake,  but  is  the  broadening  of  the 
river  of  the  same  namt,  which  maintains  a  width  of  from  ^  M.  to  2  M. 
from  Cole's  Island  to  its  mouth,  a  distance  of  25  -  30  M.  It  is  deep  and 
still,  and  has  but  little  current.  In  the  spring-time  and  autumn  rafts  de- 
scend the  lake  from  the  upper  rivers  and  from  the  head-waters  of  the 
Cocagne,  and  pass  dowr  to  St.  John.  The  scenery  is  rather  tame,  being 
that  of  alhr'ia!  lowlands,  diversified  only  by  scaitered  trees.  There  are 
10  smaV  .'imlets  on  thi  chores,  with  from  150  to  250  inhabitants  each, 
most  .  them  being  on  the  E.  shore.  The  people  are  engaged  In  farming 
and  ill  freighting  cord-wood  to  St.  J  [in.  About  6  M-  above  McDonald's 
Point,  Lewis  Cov«  opens  to  the  S.  E.,  running  dowm  for  about  3  M.  into  the 
parish  of  Wickham:  and  4-6  M.  farther  on  are  the  Narrows,  where  the 
lake  is  nearly  cut  in  two  by  a  bold  blufl'  projec*:ing  from  the  E.  shore. 
Cole's  Island  has  about  200  inhabitant",  and  a  small  hotel.    It  is  20  M. 


*^-^ 


:m_ 


'   f 


I 


48       Route  10. 


GRAND  LAKE. 


from  Apohaqui,  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway.    Roads  run  across  the  pe- 
iiinsnhi  on  the  N.  W.  to  Grand  Lake  in  6-7  M.     It  is  88  M.  from  Cole's 
Island  to  I'etitcodiac,  on  tlie  Intercolonii'l  Railway,  by  way  of  Brookvale 
The  lorks,  and  New  Canaan.     The  Wudhadenioak  region  has  no  attrac- 
tions for  the  summer  tourist. 


n 


lU;  i 


^1     il 


10.   Grand  Lake. 

The  river-bt^auier  leaves  St.  John  (Indiantown)  on  Wednesday  and  Rntiir- 

dav,  fi.r  Gr-nd  Lake  and  Salmon  Kiver.  The  diatanre  is  85  M. ;  the  faro  la  $X.5U. 
She  leaves  Salmon  lliver  on  Mo  diiy  and  Thursday  nioriiingw. 

A  railway  runs  from  Norton,  on  the  Intercolonial  line,  to  Grand  Lake. 

Grand  Lake  is  30  M.  long  and  from  3  to  y  M.  wide.  It  has  a  tide  of  6 
inched",  caused  by  the  backwater  of  the  St.  John  River,  thrown  up  by  the 
high  tides  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  shores  are  low  and  uninteresting, 
and  are  broken  by  several  deep  coves  and  estuaries.  There  are  numerous 
hamlets  on  each  side,  but  they  are  all  small  and  have  an  air  of  poverty. 
It  is  reasonably  hoped,  however,  that  these  broad  alluvial  plains  will  be- 
come, in  a  few  decades,  the  home  of  a  large  and  prosperous  population. 

The  lands  in  this  vicinity  were  granted  at  an  early  date  to  the  Siour  de  Frenetise, 
a  young  Parisian,  the  son  of  that  Sieur  de  Clignnncourt  who  was  so  active  In  settling 
the  St.  John  valley  and  iu  defending  it  against  the  New-Englanders.  On  Charle- 
voix's map  (dated  1744)  Grand  Lake  is  called  Lac  Freneuff,  and  a  village  of  the  same 
name  is  indicated  as  being  a  few  nr.iles  to  the  N.  These  shores  were  a  favorite  camp- 
ing-ground of  the  ancient  Milicele  Indians,  whose  descendants  occasionally  visit 
Grand  Lake  in  pursuit  of  muskrats.  The  lumber  business,  always  baneful  to  the 
agricultural  interests  of  a  new  country,  has  slackened  on  account  of  the  exhaustion 
of  the  forests  on  the  Salmon  illver  ;  and  It  is  now  thought  that  a  farming  population 
will  erelong  occupy  the  Grand  Lake  country. 

The  steamer  ascends  the  St.  John  River  (see  page  89)  as  far  as  Gage.' 
toion,  where  it  makes  a  brief  stop  (other  landings  on  the  lower  river  are 
sometimes  visited).  She  then  crosses  to  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  (see 
page  43),  where  the  Jemseg  River  is  entered,  and  is  followeu  tiirough  its 
narrow,  tortuous,  and  picturesque  course  of  4  M.  This  is  the  most  inter- 
esting part  of  the  journey.  When  nearly  through  the  passage  the  boat 
stops  before  the  compact  hamlet  of  Jemseg,  occupying  the  slope  of  a  hill 
on  the  r.  On  entering  the  lake,  a  broad  expanse  of  still  water  is  seen  in 
front,  with  low  and  level  shores  denuded  of  trees.  On  the  1.  is  Scotch- 
town  (150  inhabitants),  near  which  is  a  channel  cut  through  the  alluvium, 
leading  (in  2  M.)  to  Manuapit  Lake,  which  is  5  M.  long  and  2-8  M.  wide. 
This  channel  is  called  the  Thoroughfare ;  is  passable  by  large  boats;  and 
leads  through  groves  of  elm,  birch,  and  maple  trees.  1  M.  from  the  W, 
end  of  Maquapit  Lake  is  French  Lake,  accessible  by  another  "  Thorough- 
fare," and  3-4  M.  long,  nearly  divided  by  a  long,  low  point.  This  lake  is 
5  -  6  M.  from  Sheffield,  on  the  St.  John  River. 

The  channel  is  marked  out  by  poles  rising  from  the  flats  on  eituer  side. 
(The  course  of  the  steamer  is  liable  to  variation,  and  is  here  dc-cribed  as 
followed  by  the  Editor.)    Robinson's  Point  is  first  visited,  with  its  white 


GRAND   LAKE. 


Route.  11.       49 


s  the  pe- 
rn Cole's 
I'ookvale, 
10  attruc- 


and  Rntiir- 
rc  la  91.50. 


ft  tide  of  6 

up  by  the 

iteresting, 

numerous 

if  poverty.    • 

ns  will  be- 

ulation. 

le  Frcneiise, 
e  in  settling 

On  Cliarle- 
\  of  the  same 
porite  camp- 
ionally  visit 
beful  to  tlie 
-  exiiaustioa 

populatiott 

ir  as  Gage.' 
ir  river  are 
emseg  (see 
through  its 
most  inter- 
e  the  boat 
,6  of  a  hill 
is  seen  in 
is  Scotch' 
alluvium, 
i  M.  wide, 
oats;  and 
m  the  W. 
Thorough- 
.'his  lake  is 

iituer  side. 

-cribed  as 

la  its  white 


lighthouse  rising  from  the  E.  sho'e;  and  tlie  steamer  passes  around  into 
W/iite's  Core^  where  tliere  is  a  fanning  settlotnont  of  200  inluii)itants. 
Thence  the  lake  is  crossed  to  the  N.  to  Keyhole,  a  curious  little  harbor 
near  the  villages  of  Maqun})it  and  Douglas  Harbor.  After  visiting  Mill 
Cove  and  Wiggin's  Cove,  on  the  E.  shore,  and  Young's  Covo  (2  inns),  the 
boat  rounds  Cinnberland  Point  and  ascends  the  deep  Cumberland  Bay,  at 
whose  head  is  a  populous  fanning  settlement.  On  the  way  out  of  the  ay 
Cox's  Point  is  visited,  and  then  the  narrowing  waters  at  the  head  of  the 
lake  are  entered.  At  Neiccastle  and  other  points  in  this  vicinit}',  attempts 
have  been  made  at  coal-mining.  The  coal  district  about  the  head  of  Grand 
Lake  covers  an  area  of  40  square  miles,  and  the  coal  is  said  to  be  of  good 
quality  and  in  thick  seams.  But  little  has  yet  been  done  in  the  way  of 
mining,  owing  to  the  difliculty  of  transporting  the  coal  to  market. 

Soon  after  passing  Newcastle  Creek  the  steamer  ascends  the  N.  E.  arm, 
rounds  a  long,  low  point,  and  enters  the  Salmon  Hiver.  This  stream  is 
ascended  for  several  miles,  amid  the  depressing  influences  of  ruined  for- 
ests not  yet  replaced  by  farms.  Beyond  Ironbound  Cove  and  the  Coal 
Mines,  the  boat  ties  up  tor  the  night  at  a  backwoods  settlement,  where  the 
tniveller  must  go  ashore  and  sleep  in  a  room  reserved  for  wayfarers  in  an 
adjacent  cottage. 

Brigg^s  Corner  is  at  the  head  of  navigation,  and  a  road  runs  thence  '^  E.  across 
the  wilderness  to  Richibucto,  in  50 -(50  M.  It  is  stated  by  good  authori;  ■  thiit  the 
fishing  in  the  Salmon  River  has  been  ruined  by  the  lumber-nulls  ;  but  that  v<*ry 
good  sport  m.ay  l)e  found  on  the  Lake  Stream,  15-20  M.  beyond  Rrigg's  €■ 
Visitors  to  this  district  must  be  ptv  vided  with  full  camp-equipage.  A  roai  j 
leads  N.  W.  from  Brigg's  Corner  (divci,  ing  from  the  Kichibutto  road  at  Qaspereau) 
to  Blisuville^  on  the  S.  W.  Miramichi,  in  a'^out  40  M. 

U.   Fredericton  to  Woodstock. 


stations.  —  Gibson  ;  St  Mary's,  1  M.;  Douglas,  ,3;  Springhiil,  5|;  Rockland, 
10;  Keswick,  12;  Cardigan,  16J ;  Lawrence,  I7i  ;  Zealand,  20;  Stoneridere,  22^; 
Burnside,  25  ;  Upper  Keswick,  28i  ;  Burt  Lake,  32  ;  Haynesvllle,  36^ ;  Mi  (8i ; 

Nackawlc,43;  Falls  Brook,  48;  Woodstock  Junction,  62;  Newburgh,  57;  River- 
side, 60 ;  Northampton,  61i.     Pi.re  ft-om  Fredericton  to  Woodstock,  $  1.76. 

Beyond  Woodstock  Junction  the  Railway  runs  N.   to  Hartland 

(61  M.  from  Fredericton)  and  to  Florenceville  (71  M.),  and  thence  to  Tobique  and 
the  upper  St.  John  valley. 

The  travelVi  crosses  the  St.  John    River  by  the  new  railway  bridge 
from  Fredr         u  to  St.  Mary's.    As  the  train  moves  out,  very  attractive 
3  *D 


f 


t 


IM 


1 ' 
2    ■i  f 


virj 


^nt 


:>0     /f(>tt<e  ;/.      FllEDERICTON   TO   WOODSTOCK. 

glimpsos  of  Frt'dericdii  arc  obtained  on  the  1..  and  at  2  M.  out  tlic  Na^h- 
wat^ksis  Uivcr  in  crost^ed.  TIkmi  thu  train  udvancuH  rupidiv,  uiid  tliere 
follows  a  supc-essioji  of  bi'MUtifiil  views  (to  tlif^  1.)  ovor  the  wide  vu(\  placid 
St.  dohii,  (lotted  with  niunerous  large  and  level  islands,  upon  which  are 
clusters  of  gracefnl  trer".  *>n  .!>"  farther  shore  is  seen  the  village  of 
Sprinf/lnll  {st'p  page  Hi  ,  ;  m.  1  t'l  '  broad  expanse  of  Sugar  Island  ewases 
the  river  a  little  way  abiAi^  At  about  10  M.  from  Krederictnn  the  line 
changes  its  course  rn>ni  W.  to  N.  W,,  and  leaves  the  St.  .John  valley, 
ascending  tlu>  valley  of  the  Kc<;wick,  — a  district  which  is  begitniing  to 
show  the  ri' wards  of  the  arduous  labors  of  its  early  pioneers.  The  Keswick 
Valley  was  set' letl  in  Ut-."),  by  thedishande  '  *  «■  Mean-loyalist  corps  of  New 
York  and  tho  Itoyal  Guides,  and  their  descendants  are  now  attacking  the 
remoter  back-country.  The  Keswick  flovs  through  a  jileasant  region,  and 
has  bold  ''\dnres,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  escari)ed  wall  of  sandstone  ou 
the  1.  bai'  reaching  for  S-  10  M.  from  its  mouth.  From  Cardigan  station 
n  road  lei  Js  into  the  old  Welsh  settlement  of  CarfHi/nn. 

The  line  next  passes  several  8t4>tion8  on  the  nlit  dnnmin  of  the  New  Bruninvlck 
Lund  Coni|iHii\,  iin  nssociution  whicli  was  Incori onited  l)yroval  eharter  iH'fnre  1840, 
and  1  mrliiised  from  the  Crown  5.50,000  ncres  in  York  rounty.  Tliey  estuhiished 
the!."  ea|  itid  iind  chief  iij^Mjey  at  the  viliiiKe  of  Stnnlry.  opened  roads  through  the 
fore.st,  settled  a  lai.  e  eoni)  any  of  peo|  le  from  the  Isle  of  Skye  upon  their  lauda,  and 
exi  ended  lff600,(KK)  in  vain  attempts  to  eoloniw;  tlds  district. 

The  coimtry  now  traversed  by  the  line  soems  desolate  and  un^  "omising, 
and  but  few  signs  of  civilization  are  visible.  This  forest-land  i^  left  be- 
hind, and  the  open  valley  of  the  St.  -lohn  is  approached,  beyond  A'^ei^'- 
burr/h.  For  the  last  few  miles  of  the  journey  beautiful  views  are  given 
from  the  high  grades  of  the  line,  including  the  river  and  Its  intervales  and 
surrounding  hills.  The  St.  John  River  is  crossed  by  a  long  wooden  rail- 
way bridge. 

Woodstock  {Wilbur  JTome  i  F  chanr/e),  the  capital  of  Carleton 

County,  is  situated  n  the  co>'.luence  <  the  St.  .Tohu  and  Meduxnekeag 
Rivers,  in  the  centre  ot  a  thriving  agricultural  district.  The  population  is 
over  3,000,  and  the  town  is  favorably  situated  on  a  high  bluff  above  the  St. 
John  TJiver.  The  Episr  ypal  Church  of  St.  Luke  ai'l  the  Catholic  Church 
of  St.  Gertriuie  are  on  Main  St.,  where  arc  also  the  chief  buildings  of  the 
town.  The  academy  called  WoodstocU  ""ollege  is  located  here.  The 
country  in  this  vicinity  is  very  attr;  tive  in  summer,  and  is  possessed  of  a 
rich  rural  beauty  which  is  uncoi'i  n  ir  these  Provinces.  The  soil  is  a 
calcareous  loam,  producing  more  iruit  and  cereal  grains  than  any  other 
part  of  New  Brunswick.  The  bold  bluffs  over  the  St.  John  are  generally  well- 
t  ooded,  and  the  intervu  les  bear  much  hay  and  grain.  There  are  large  saw- 
mills at  the  mouth  of  the  Meduxnekeag,  where  the  timber  which  is  cut  on 
its  upper  waters,  in  Maine,  is  made  into  lumber.    12  M.  from  Woodstock 


OODSTOCK. 


Boute  IS.       5 1 


iil  there 
1(1  placid 
hlch  «ro 
illiipo  of 

I  croftsps 
tho  lino 

II  vullpy, 
iiiniiiR  to 

Keswick 
psof  New 
•kiiiff  tho 
?pi(in,  ntnl 
(Istone  on 
an  station 

Bnins>vick 

liclnrc  1840, 

cstablishetl 

hrciunh  the 

r  lauds,  and 

',  -omising, 
1 1^  left  be- 
yond Netc- 
are  given 
rvale»  and 
)cden  rail- 

Carleton 
uxnckea^; 
lulation  is 
ive  tlie  St. 
ic  Cluirch 
ini^s  of  the 
■idre.     The 
sessed  of  a 
le  soil  is  ft 
any  other 
eraily  well- 
!  large  saw- 
h  is  nit  on 
oodstock 


is  the  American  village  of  IhulUm,  the  capital  of  Aroostook  County,  Maine; 
and  th'  citizens  of  tlie  two  towns  are  in  such  close  Kocial  relations  that 
Woodstock  iiearw  great  resemblance  to  a  Yankee  town,  both  in  its  archi- 
tecture and  its  society. 

"Of  Mw  ((UMlity  of  tho  Wfwxlstnrk  iron  it  is  Ini|xwsn>l(>  to  ffjxvik  too  highly,  espe- 
cially for  tnakiii^  stt'cl,  and  it,  is  i'a);*-rly  woii^^lit  liy  tiic  ariiior-lilate  inaiiufacturtTs  iu 
Kiii^laud.  On  •■•ix  (lillcn-nf.  triiils,  plates  of  NVomlstofk  iron  wt-io  only  A\\i  itly  ia- 
dentuil  hy  an  Annstroiix  shot,  which  sliattfiH'd  to  plwcs  scrap-iron  |)latcHoi  rim  tmst 
quality  and  of  sinular  thickness.  When  ca,st  it  has  a  lino  Milvor-Ki'ay  color,  is  (-ingu- 
larly  closo-«raiiu'd,  and  rin^s  like  stcol  on  licini?  struck.  A  ciiliic  inch  of  Wood- 
stock iron  wcij^hs  22  por  iH'nt  more  than  the  like  (luantity  of  Hwedisli,  Russian,  or 
]<]ast  Indian  iron."  (lluN.  Artuu.(  Uuudun.)  The  niimm  are  8oui»  distani  c  frutu 
tlio  vili.'i^e,  ami  tiieir  prodUL't.s  mtu  mucu  Ust-d  lor  i.iu  Knu.tti  uon-clud  tri^atus. 
Th«y  avo  now  nliandoned 

The  Kailwiiy  runs  S.  from  Woodstock  to  Ht.  Stephen  and  St.  Andrews  (see 

page  .'JP));  fare,  .'$2  iK)  ;  also,  S.  K  to  Frt'dencton  ;  taic,  Jj  I  75. 

Trains  run  N.  to  (irand  Falls  and  Kivli'>ro  du  iioup,  and  \V.  tu  iloultuu.  iStuumvrs 
run  to  Frt'durictou  when  the  river  is  high  enough. 

12.    Fredericton  to  Woodstrck,  by  the  St.  John  River. 

Purine  the  spring  and  autumn,  when  there  is  enough  water  iii  the  river,  this 
route  is  served  by  steanihojits  At  other  times  the  journey  may  bo  nitido  by  the 
uiail-stage.  The  distmce  is  02  M.  ;  the  fare  is  #2.60.  Tlie  stiige  is  uncovered,  and 
heiKO  is  undesirable  as  a  means  of  conveyance  except  in  plea.suit  weatner.  Most 
travellers  will  prefer  to  pass  between  Fredericton  and  W'oodstcKik  by  the  new  rail- 
way (s«H'  Route  11).  'l^e  statue  p.isses  up  the  S.  and  W-  side  of  the  river.  The  en- 
suing itinerary  speaks  of  the  river-villages  in  their  order  of  lo<'ation,  without  refer- 
encf  t     the  stations  of  the  stiiges  and  steamboats. 

DlHtauceN.  —Fredericton  to  Springhill,  5  M.  ;  Lower  French  Village,  9;  Bris- 
tol (Kingsdear),  Ifi  ;  Lower  Prince  William,  21  ;  Prince  William,  25;  DamfrieH,  32; 
Pokiok  Falls,  39;  Lower  Canterbury, 44;  Canterbury, 51 ;  Lower  Woodstock  ;  Wood- 
stock, 52. 

Or.  leaving  Fredericton,  ])leasant  prospects  of  the  city  and  its  Na.«h- 
waa  -ubiirbs  are  afforded,  and  successions  of  pretty  views  nre  obtained 
over  the  rich  alluvial  islands  which  fill  the  river  for  over  7  M.,  up  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Keswick  River.  Sprinykill  (S.  shore)  is  the  first  villa^-'^. 
and  lias  about  250  inhabitants,  with  an  Episcopal  chr.rch  and  a  small  inn. 
Tlie  prolific  intervales  of  Sugar  Island  are  seen  on  the  v.,  nearly  closing 
the  estuary  of  the  Keswick,  and  the  road  passes  oi-.  to  tii(j  Indian  village, 
where  reside  25  families  of  the  Milicete  tribe.  A  short  distance  beyond 
is  the  Loioer  French  Villa<je  (.McKinley's  inn),  inhabited  by  a  fiirming 
population  descended  from  the  old  Acadian  fugitives.  Tho  road  and  river 
now  run  to  tho  S.  W.,  hrough  the  rural  parish  of  Kingscleur,  which  was 
settled  in  1784  by  the  2d  Battalion  of  New  Jersey  Loyalists.  Beyond  the 
hamlet  of  Bristol  (Kingsdear)  Burgoyne's  Ferry  is  reached,  and  tho  scat- 
tered cottages  of  Lower  Queensbury  are  seen  on  the  N.  shore.  After 
crossing  Long's  Creek  the  road  and  river  turn  to  the  N.  W.,  nnd  soon 
reach  the  village  of  i.ower  Prince  William  (Wason's  inn).  9  M.  S.  \V.  of 
this  point  is  a  settlement  ami<l  the  beautiful  scenery  of  Lake  George^ 
where  an  antimony-mine  is  beiiiij:;  worked;  3  M.  bej'oud  which  is  Magundy 
(small  iun),  to  the  W.  of  Lake  George. 


I'    ,*' 


1 

1 

^  • 

■1 

ft: 

ir 


I' 


<! 


52     /eo«/<!  /« 


FORT  MEDUCTIC. 


Tlirt  road  ptJH«os  on  to  Princf*  WilliMm,  tlironcli  a  parish  which  was 
orijriiially  settled  l»y  tln'  Kiii;:'s  Aiiicrifini  I)r)\^:n()iis,  mid  is  now  oc(M|)icd 
by  tiM'ir  di'xcciniiiiits.  On  tlio  \.  shore  arc  tin-  nilly  uiiiuiKis  of  the  parisli 
of  (iue<'iisi)urv,  wliicli  wen?  settle<l  l)y  tlio  dishanded  men  of  tlie  (Queen's 
l{aii;;ers,  after  tlie  l{evolutionarv  War.  Kich  iiitervah>  ishuidn  are  seen  in 
tlie  river  lietweeii  tliese  parislie^.  lieyond  IhimJ'rlrs  (snudl  hot«d)  tho 
hamlet  (»f  I'pitei"  (^iieensl)ury  is  ^eeii  on  tlie  N.  shore,  and  the  river  sweeps 
nround  a  Itroad  heiid  ai  whose  head  is  Pukiok,  with  lar;^'e  himher-niills, 
3  M  from  Allandale.  There  h  a  fhio  piece  of  seenery  hero,  where  the 
Kiver  rol<i(»k  (an  Indian  word  meaning  "tho  Dreadful  Place  "),  the  out- 
let of  Lake  Geor<jje,  enters  tho  St.  .lolm.  The  river  first  jilunges  over  a 
jierpendicnlar  fall  <)|"40  ft.  ami  then  enters  a  Miu'  f!;orj;e,  1,2'M)  ft.  long,  75  fit. 
ileep,  mikI  2r>  ft.  wide,  cut  through  op|»osiiig  ledges  of  dark  rock.  The 
I'okiok  hounds  down  this  chasm,  from  step  to  step,  until  it  reaches  the 
St.  John,  and  affords  a  beautiful  sight  in  time  of  high  water,  although 
its  current  is  often  encumbered  with  masses  of  rin'-riill'  and  rubbish  from 
the  saw-mills  above.  The  gorge  should  be  inspected  from  below,  although 
it  c:mnot  be  asceudjMl  along  tho  botttim  on  account  of  the  vcdocity  of  the 
ccnitracted  stnam.  About  4  ^I.  from  INikiok  (and  nearer  to  Dimifries)  is 
the  pretty  highland  water  of  rrinco  William  Lake,  wiiich  is  nearly  2  M. 
in  diameter.  • 

Loictr  Canfvthury  (inn)  is  about  f)  M.  beyottd  Pokiok,  and  is  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Sheogonioc  IJiver,  flow  ing  out  from  a  lake  of  the  same  name. 
At  Otntirbiiri/  (Iloyt's  inn)  the  lud  IJiver  is  crossed;  and  about  5  M.  be- 
yond, the  roati  passes  the  site  of  the  old  French  works  of  Fort  Meiluvtic. 

Tliis  fort  oeuiniumled  tlio  portiipc  between  the  St.  John  and  tlu-  route  by  the  upper 
Kel  Itiver  mill  the  Kel  iiiid  North  Lakes  to  tho  (liiimtntticook  Lukes  and  I'as.suiia- 
qiiodd.v  Hay.  I'ortioiis  of  tlioso  i»orta{.'os  are  niaikod  hy  dtcp  jiatliwavs  worn  in  the 
rtHks  by  tlio  iimcciisoiis  of  niaii.\  noiioratioas  of  Indian  liuiitcrs  and  warriors,  lly 
this  route  niarcliod  tho  dova.^itatiiit;  savajro  troops  of  the  Chovalior  do  A  ilkhon  to 
many  a  iii('i'oik's,s  foray  on  tlio  Now  En^rlaiid  hordors.  Tiio  land  in  this  vicinity, 
and  tiio  lordship  of  tho  Milicote  town  at  IModuotic,  wore  jirantod  in  l(iS4  to  tho  Mour 
(lignaiK  oiirt,  tho  bravo  I'arisian  who  aided  in  roj>olliiig  tho  troops  of  Mahsacluist  tts 
from  tho  fort  on   tho  .loiiisojr.     lioio,  also,  tho  Indians  wore 

oMigod  to  inako  a  porfajro  around  tho  ISh-dnctio  Rajiids,  and  tho  ooiiniiaiid  of  (ids 
point  WIS  dooiiH'd  of  grout  iiiiportunce  and  value.  (See  also  tho  account  of  Allan's 
retreat,  mi  page  40.) 

Ofl'this  point  arc  the  Meducth'  Rnpids,  where  the  steamboats  sometimes 
find  it  ditlicult  to  make  headway  against  the  descending  waters,  accel- 
erated by  a  slight  incline.  The  road  now  runs  N.  through  the  pleasant 
valley  of  the  St.  .Tohn,  with  hill-ranges  on  either  side.  Lower  Woodstock 
is  a  prosperous  settlement  of  about  500  inhabitants,  and  the  road  soon 
approaches  the  N.  B.  Railway  (see  page  37),  and  runs  between  that  line 
and  the  river. 

**  The  nppronoh  to  Woodstock,  from  the  old  church  upwards,  is  one  of  the  pleas- 
nntest  driv»»s  in  tho  Provin<"o.  tho  road  hcins  shaded  on  oiMur  side  with  fine  trees, 
aud  the  comfortable  farui-houses  and  gardens,  the  scattered  clumps  of  wood,  the 


lie  ]i)irish 

re  seen  in 
i()t(>l)  the 
IT  sweeps 
l)er-inill!», 
vliere  the 
),  the  out- 
i'H  over  a 

oiig,  7r)  ft. 
)ck.  The 
MU'hes  the 
itUhoii^h 
)hish  from 
,  nlthftujili 
L-ity  of  the 
mifries)  is 
2iirly  2  M. 

\  near  the 
me  tiiuno. 
5  M.  be- 
hductic. 

tho  upper 

ra.-i-iuiui- 
unn  ill  the 
iriors.     My 

ilk'brm  to 
vuiiiity, 
o  i\\v  >it'ur 
■  SiU'husttts 
tliaus  were 
iiul  of  tliia 

of  AUuu's 

ometinies 
rs,  accel- 
l)leasiint 

road  soon 
that  line 


the  pleas- 

Ifine  trf'PS, 

wood, the 


FhORKNC'EVIIXE. 


Route  IS' 


53 


w^niliiigfl  of  tho  (n^at  riyer,  the  pictureiique  ktiolli*,  and  the  gay  appearance  of  ttio 
1)11  tiy  NtniKgliiiK  litcU)  town,  all  giving  un  uir  of  a  luug-fluttled,  pcicuful,  h'nylinh 
looking  euuucry."     ((iuHi>o.N.) 

13.   Woodstock  to  Grand  Falls  and  Riviere  du  Loup. 

Tim  Kiiilwuy  runs  up  tiie   valley,  from  \Vood«to<ik  to 

EdniundHton,  through  a  rather  pictun-tKiuo  and  diversified  country,  with  charinin|[ 
riviT-viowH,  and  furnishluj^  lU'ce.sM  to  very  (j;ood  ttsUing-grouudH.  Along  tlio  7ii  M., 
wiicru  the  St.  John  fornts  the  internationiil  houndiiry,  extending  from  2^  M.  aboVH 
Uriiud  Falls  to  Kdnuind.ston,  the  Hcenery  is  very  pleaNing,  with  bold  hilU  eucloniug 
lake-liki!  reiidu^M  of  river,  graceful  islamlH,  and  f.iir  meadows 

St atloiiH.  —  Woodstock  to  l'pi)er  Woodstin-k,  2  M.  ;  Newburgli  Junction,  6; 
Ilartlaiid,  l;{;  I'eel.U;  Florenceville, '2;J ;  Kent, '20;  llath,2'J;  Munia<-,41;  I'erth, 
4!» ;  Andover  (Tobl(iue),  51;  Aroostook,  55  (branch  hence  to  Fort  Fairfield,  7  M.  ; 
K.  Lyndon,  li;  (Iiirlbou,  l!J ;  rresque  l»lo,  34);  Grand  FuIIh,  78;  St.  Leouard'a, 
87  ;  Green  Kiver,  104  ;  St.  Basil,  107  ;  Mdmuudstou,  113. 

It  is  00  M.  by  the  Teniiscoiiiita  liailway  (^finished  in  1888)  from  Edmundston  to 
lUviere  du  Loup,  on  the  St    liawrence. 

The  road  from  Woodstock  to  Fh)rencpville  is  pleasant  and  hi  an  attrac- 
tive country.  "It  is  rich,  English,  and  pretty.  When  I  my  English, 
I  ouyht,  perhaps,  ratlier  to  say  Scotch,  for  the  general  features  are  those 
of  the  lowland  parts  of  Perthshire,  tliough  tlie  luxuriant  vegetation  — 
tall  crops  of  nnii/e,  ripening  iields  of  golden  wheat,  and  fine  well-grown 
hard-wood  —  speaks  of  a  more  southern  latitude.  Single  trees  and  clumps 
are  here  left  about  the  fields  and  on  the  hillsides,  under  the  shade  of 
which  well-looking  cattle  may  be  seen  resting,  whilst  on  the  other  hand  are 
pretty  views  of  river  and  distance,  visible  under  line  willows,  or  through 
birches  that  carried  me  back  to  Dccside."     (Hon.  Autitur  Ooudox.) 

The  train  runs  out  E.  from  Woodstock  across  the  St.  John  vallev  to 
Newburgh  (or  Woodstock)  Junction,  where  it  turns  N.  on  the  main  line, 
and  runs  rapidly  through  the  forest,  emerging  upon  the  meadows  of  the  St. 
John,  which  are  followed  for  a  hundred  miles.  Victoria  and  Middle 
Simonds  (Mills's  Hotel)  are  quiet  hamlets  on  the  river,  centres  of  agricul- 
tural districts  of  5  -  800  inhabitants  each.  Florencemlle  is  a  pretty  village, 
"  perched,  like  an  Italian  town,  on  the  very  top  of  a  high  bluff  far  over  the 
river."  Tlie  district  between  Woodstock  and  Wicklow  was  settled  after 
the  American  Revolution  by  the  disbanded  soldiers  of  the  West  India 
Ilaiigers  and  the  New  Brunswick  Fencibles. 

"  Between  Florenceville  and  Tobique  the  road  becomes  even  prettier, 
winding  along  the  bank  of  the  St.  John,  or  through  woody  glens  that 
combine  to  my  eye  Somersetshire,  Perthshire,  and  the  green  wooded  part 
of  southwestern  Germany."  Tliere  are  five  distinct  terraces  along  the 
valley,  showing  the  geological  changes  in  the  level  of  the  river.  5  M.  S. 
W.  of  the  river  is  ^fars  Hill,  a  steep  mountain  about  1.200  ft  high,  which 
overlooks  a  vast  expanse  of  forest.  This  was  one  of  the  chief  points  of 
cotltI•o^•erpy  during  the  old  border-troubles,  and  its  summit  was  cleared  by 
the  Commissioners  of  1794. 


4 


I.! 

w 

i,  S. 

f!  - 


'hi 


'1  ■' 


•    AH^ 


H 


Itoule  13. 


TOBTQUE. 


From  Florenceville  the  train  runs  N.  3  M.  to  Kent,  where  a  road  leads 
acroHs  in  15  M.  to  the  iii)pcr  Miraniichi  waters,  Avhence  canoes  and  lisLcr- 
nien  descend  the  great  river,  00  M.,  to  lloiestown  (see  i)age  47),  through 
rich  hill  and  forest  scenerv,  and  witli  the  best  of  salmon  and  trout  fish- 
iug.   (Kovguides,  etc.,  write  to  J.  Richards  &  Son,  Fredericton,  N.  B.). 

Beyon'l  the  long-drawn  town  of  KeiU,  tlie  train  traverses  the  pleasant 
(but  rather  lonely)  glens  of  Muuiac,  celebrated  in  Indian  tradition;  and 
reaches  the  little  village  of  Perth,  on  the  E.  shore  of  the  St.  .John,  with 
a  hotel  and  four  or  live  stores,  and  mills.  The  frequent  views  of  the  bright 
river,  on  the  left,  give  an  appearance  of  diversity  and  cheerfulness  to  the 
landscape. 

Tobi^iue  (/.  -4.  Perleifs  inn),  otherwise  known  as  Andover,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  th  i  W.  bank  of  the  St.  John,  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  <jf  the 
Tobique  River.  It  has  400  inhabitants  and  2  churches,  and  is  the  chief 
depot  of  suj)plies  for  the  lumbering-camps  on  the  Tobique  Eiver.  Nearly 
opposite  is  a  large  and  picturesque  Indian  village,  containing  about  150 
persons  of  the  Milicete  tribe,  and  situated  on  the  bluff  nt  the  confluence  of 
the  rivers.  They  have  a  valuable  reservation  here,  and  the  men  of  the 
trib.3  engage  in  lumbering  and  boating. 

A  branch  railway  runs  from  Arnm^fnnk  Junction  for  .34  M.  up  tlie  Aroostook 
Viillej ,  by  Fort  Faiiiit'ld  ( ^W/Z/^.s-  Uduhi),  nn  Aiuerican  town  of  3,'I00  inhab- 
itiint.i.  near  Aroostook  Falls,  Hattle  I'rook,  etc  ,  and  with  several  churches  and 
factories.  It  was  settled  in  IHIG  by  New-Brunswickers,  who  supposed  it  to  be  ia 
their  Province.  The  railway  goes  on  12  M.  to  Caribou  (  rauf/hdii  IIouHf),  with 
3,0U0  inhabitants  and  a  newspaper,  and  a  neii;hborhcoLl  abounding  in  trout,  deer, 
moose,  etc.  12  M.  beyond,  at  the  end  of  the  railway,  is  I*re.sque  Isle  (Pres(/u  - 
Isle  Hotel ;  Phair  I/ofel),  with  3,500  inhabitants,  a  newspaper,  opera  honse,  water- 
works, etc.  In  the  vicinity  are  found  boars,  deer,  moose,  caribou,  ducks,  and  capital 
fishing,  in  Presque-Jsle  Stream,  Aroostook  Iliver,  Squawpan  Like;  Tiience  one 
begins  the  excursions  to  the  Eagle  Lakes,  Milluokett,  Millnigassett,  Numsungan,  etc. 

From  Tobique  to  Bathurst.     Throngh  the  Wilderness. 

Guides  and  canoes  can  be  obtained  at  the  Indian  village  near  Tobique.  About 
1  M.  above  Tobique  the  voyagers  ascend  through  the  iSanoivs,  where  the  rapid  cur- 
rent of  the  Tobique  Iliver  is  confined  in  a  winding  canon  (1  M.  long,  150  ft  wide, 
and  50-100  ft.  deep)  bet v.een  high  limestone  clitl's  Then  the  river  broadens  out 
into  a  pretty  lake-like  reach,  with  rounded  and  forest-covered  hills  on  either  side. 
The  first  night-camp  is  usually  made  high  up  on  this  reaih.  Two  more  rapids  are 
next  passed,  and  then  conunences  a  stretch  of  clear,  deep  water  VO  M.  long.  Near 
the  foot  of  the  reach  is  the  settlement  oi  Arth>irette,\\\t\\  about  400  inhabitants. 
The  Red  Rapids  are  11  ]\I  from  the  month  of  the  river,  and  descend  between  high 
shores.  Occasional  beautifully  wooded  islands  are  passed  in  the  stream ;  and  by 
the  evening  of  the  second  day  the  voyagers  should  reach  the  high  red  clifl's  at  the 
month  of  the  broad  Wap.'^kehegan  liiver.  T'ms  Indian  name  signifies  "  a  river  with 
a  wall  at  its  mouth,"  and  the  stream  may  be  ascended  for  20  M.,  through  a  region 
of  limestone  hills  and  alluvial  intervales.  The  Wapskehegau  is  31  M.  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Tobique. 

Infrequent  clearings,  red  cliffs  along  the  shore,  and  blue  hills  more  remote,  en- 
gage the  attention  as  the  canoe  ascends  still  farther,  i)assing  the  hamlet  of  Foster''s 
Cove  on  the  \.  bank,  and  running  along  the  shores  of  Diamond  and  Long  Island, 
44  M  up  river  is  the  Agulquac  Kiver,  coming  in  from  the  E.,  an<i  navigable  by 
canot.^  for  25  M.  As  the  intervales  beyond  this  confluence  are  jm;  '.,  occasional 
ghmpses  are  gained  (on  the  r.)  of  the  Blue  Mt-*.  and  other  t'l  riiig.  .  At  80  M. 
from  the  uiouth  of  the  river,  the  canoe  reaches  The  Forks  (4-."  v.    '  Uc:..  Tobique). 


■)ad  ieadft 

11(1  lisLer- 
,  through 
rout  lisli- 

B.). 

pleasant 
tioa;  and 
ohn,  with 
the  bright 
iss  to  the 

pleasantly 
uth  of  the 
the  chief 
'.  Kearly 
about  150 
ifluence  of 
len  of  the 


Aroostonk 
,000  iiihah- 
irc'lies  uiitl 
it  to  be  ia 
f)«,s"('),  with 
rout,  (leer, 

Prt'Siiu  - 
e,  wator- 
and  capital 

lence  one 
ungun,  tte. 


|iie.  About 
rapid  cur- 
0  11  wide, 
adeiis  out 
ithcr  side, 
rapids  are 
uug.  Nuar 
haliitants. 
wet'U  high 
and  by 
ill's  at  the 
river  with 
i\\  a  region 
above  the 

•emote,  en- 
of  Foster'' s 
"iiifr  Island, 
vif^able  by 

occasional 
At  80  M. 

Tcbi'iue^ 


NICTOR  LAKE. 


Route  13.       55 


The  Campbell  River  bore  comes  in  from  the  E.  and  S.  E.,  from  the  great  Tobique 
Lake  and  other  remote  wildcrncss-watcra  :  the  Momozckct  descends  from  the  N., 
and  from  the  N.  \V^  comes  tlu-  Nictor,  or  Little  ToViifiue  Kiver.  It  is  a  %ood  day's 
journey  from  the  Forks  to  Cedar  Brook,  on  the  Nictor;  and  another  day  conducts 
to  the  *  jSictor  I^ake,  "  possessinj^  more  beauty  of  M-enery  than  any  other  locality 
1  have  seen  in  the  Province,  except,  perhajis,  the  Hay  of  (Jhaleur.  Close  to  its 
southern  edjie  a  j^ranite  luountain  rises  to  a  heij;;ht  of  nearly  3,(J(JU  ft.,  clothed  with 
wood  to  its  summit,  exce|it  where  it  breaks  into  precipices  of  dark  rock  or  long  gray 
shingly  slopes.  Other  mountains  of  less  height,  but  in  some  cases  of  more  pictur- 
esque forms,  are  on  other  sides  ;  and  in  the  lake  itself,  in  the  shadow  of  the  moun- 
tain, is  a  little  rocky  islet  of  juo.st  inviting  appearance."  It  takes  2-3  hours  to 
u.scend  the  mountain  (Bald,  or  f^agamook),  wlieiice  "  the  view  is  very  fine.  The  lake 
lies  right  at  our  feet,  —  millions  of  acres  of  fortjst  are  spread  out  before  us  like  a 
map,  sinking  and  swelling  in  one  dark  mantle  over  hills  and  valleys,  whilst  Katah- 
din  and  Mars  Hill  in  Maine,  Tracadiegash  in  Canada,  the  Squaw's  Cap  on  the 
llestigouche  and  Green  Mountain  in  Victoria,  are  all  distinctly  visible."  (Gordon.) 
From  the  head  of  Nictor  Lakt  a  portage  3  M.  long  leads  to  the  Neyisiguit  Lake. 
on  whose  E.  shore  is  the  remarkable  peak  called  Mount  Teneriffe,  Near  the  outlet 
is  a  famous  camping-ground,  where  the  fishing  is  good  and  in  whose  vicinity  deer 
and  ducks  are  found.  It  takes  about  six  days  to  descend  the  Ntjjislyuit  Ricer  to 
the  Great  Falls,  the  larger  part  of  the  way  being  tlirough  forests  of  lir  and  between 
distanc  ranges  of  bare  granite  hills. 

The  Tobique  affords  the  very  best  of  salmon-fishing,  with  many  trout  also.  The 
scenery  is  very  interesting,  with  noble  red  cliff:,,  and  canons,  seetlung  rapids,  hill- 
girc  lakes,  and  true  forest  wilduess.  The  Tobique  is  the  most  picturesque  stream 
in  New  Brunswick. 

Grand  Falls  (Grand-F<ills  Hotel,  a  new  summer-resort;  American', 
Glasicr's),  the  central  point  of  the  upper  St.  John  region,  once  a  British 
garrison,  and  now  capital  of  Victoria  County,  has  latt(M-ly  become  fauKuis 
as  a  watering-place,  the  attractions  being  the  noble  river  and  gorge  and 
hill  scenery  adjacent,  the  summer  coolness,  beautiful  drives,  line  lishing- 
grounds,  etc.  The  pretty  little  village,  with  its  three  churches,  stands  on 
a  square  peninsular  plateau,  with  the  river  on  three  sides,  and  a  dry  ravine 
on  the  fourth.  The  immensely  wide  Broadway  runs  from  the  railway 
to  the  bridge.  The  diverse  manners  of  the  French  habltans  and  Danish 
immigrants  are  worthy  of  observation.  Partridges  and  wild  ducks  abound 
here,  in  tlie  fall,  and  furnish  good  sport ;  and  the  strawberries  of  July  are 
delicious.  The  Falls  are  at  their  best  in  May,  when  magnificent  colivul- 
sions  of  the  Hooded  river  are  seen.  A  month  later,  the  logs  come  down. 
Besides  the  view  from  the  bridge,  the  Falls  and  the  gorge  should  be  seen 
from  the  old  mill  above,  from  the  Wells  (5  luige  eroded  pot-holes,  with 
grand  prospect  of  Ihe  canon  and  rapids),  and  from  Lover's  Leap  over  the 
l)rotbund  Falls-Brook  Basin.  The  scenery  is  majestic  and  awe-inspiring. 
There  are  lovely  views  from  the  mountain  W.  of  (and  700  ft.  nl)ove), 
the  village,  including  Blue  Bell,  Bald  Head,  and  the  long  lines  of  the  Sal- 
moii-i:iver  and  Blue  Mts. 

The  **  Grand  Falls  are  near  the  village,  and  form  the  most  imposing 
cataract  in  the  Maritime  Provinces.  The  river  expands  into  a  broad  basin 
above,  aflbrding  a  landing-place  for  descending  canoes;  then  hurries  its 
massive  current  into  a  narrow  rock-bound  gorge,  in  which  it  slants  down 
an  iiicUiio  of  6  ft.,  and  tlien  plunges  over  a  precipice  of  calcareous  slate 


V. 


y1^ 


1      !■   !»     ■ 


it 


U 


I  i' ■ 


56     y?"»7<'  /J. 


GRAND    FALLS. 


58  ft.  ]ii<z;h.  Tho  slinpo  of  \ho.  fall  is  sinrjuliir,  since  the  wntcr  lenps  from 
tin',  front  nnil  from  botli  sides,  with  minor  Jind  (Ictaclied  cascades  over  the 
outer  ledges,  lielow  tlie  cataract  tlie  river  wliirls  and  wlutens  for  ^  M. 
thronjrh  a  rufrcred  gorpo  250  ft.  wide,  wliose  walls  of  dark  rock  are  from 
100  to  240  ft.  liij^li.  "It  is  a  narrow  and  fri;j;htfiH  chasm,  lashed  by  the 
troubled  water,  and  excavated  by  boiling  eddies  and  whirlpools  always 
in  motion;  at  last  the  water  jilnnges  in  a!i  innnense  frothy  sheet  into  a 
basin  below,  where  it  becomes  tran(iuil,  and  the  stream  resutnes  its  origi- 
nal features."  Within  the  gorge  the  river  falls  58  ft.  more,  and  the  rug- 
ged shores  are  strewn  with  the  wr(>cks  of  lumber-rafts  which  have  i)ecome 
entangled  here.  The  traveller  should  try  to  visit  the  Falls  when  lur^'cr  * 
about  passing  over.  3-4  ^L  below  the  Falls  is  ih(}  dnu'^cvmf^  Jiajmle  de 
Feniine.  Small  steamers  have  been  placed  on  the  river  above  the  Falls, 
and  have  run  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Francis,  05  M.  distant. 

It  is  a  tradition  of  tlic  Micinacs  that  in  a  rcniotc  ap'  two  fan  '  ios  of  thoir  tribe 
wcro  on  tlic  upper  St.  .lolin  liuntinj;,  ami  were  i^urjirisfil  liy  a  war  party  of  the 
Htraiiijo  ami  (ht'adcil  Nortlu^ni  Iiuli.-iiis.  Tlic  latti-r  were  desccniiiii^r  tin-  river  to  at- 
tiick  tlie  lower  Mieuiae  villages,  and  forced  the  ('a)itured  wonuMi  to  pilot  them  down. 
A  few  miles  above  the  falls  tiiey  .asked  their  mi\\illiii^  jruides  if  the  .^treaiii  was  all 
eiuooth  lielow,  and  on  reeeivinji  an  allirinative  answer,  lashed  the  eauoes  top'thor 
into  a  raft,  and  wont  to  slee]),  exhausted  with  theii-  march.  When  near  the  (Jrami 
Falls  tho  women  quietly  dropped  overboard  and  swam  ashore,  whilo  tne  hostile  war- 
riors, wrapped  in  slumber,  were  swej)t  down  into  the  rajiids,  only  to  awaken  when 
escaj)e  was  impossible.  Their  bodies  were  stripped  by  the  .Mi( macs  on  tlie  river  be- 
low, and  the  brave  women  were  ever  afterward  held  in  high  houor  by  tiie  tribe. 

Crossing  the  St.  John  at  Graiul  Falls,  the  line  ascends  the  E.  bank  of 
the  stream,  and  soon  enters  the  Acadian- French  settlements  and  farming- 
districts.  8-10  ^L  up  the  road  is  the  village  of  St.  Ltomird^  nearly  all  of 
whose  people  are  French;  and  on  the  American  shore  (for  the  St.  .lolui 
River  is  for  many  leagues  the  frontier  between  the  n.'itions)  is  the  simi- 
larly constituted  village  of  Van  Buren  (two  inns).  This  district  is  largely 
peopled  by  the  Cyr,  \"iolette,  and  Michaud  families. 

Tho  Hon.  Arthur  Oordon  thus  describes  one  of  these  Acadian  homes  near  Grand 
River  (in  18ti3) :  "  The  w  hole  aspect  of  the  farm  was  that  of  a  victiiiri'  in  Nor- 
mandy ;  tho  outer  doors  of  the  house  gaudily  painted,  tho  panels  of  a  dilferent 
rolor  from  the  frame, —  the  large,  oiien,  une.arpeted  room,  with  its  bare  shining 
floor,  —  the  lasses  at  the  spinning-wheel, —  tho  French  costume  and  appearanee  of 
Madame  Violet  and  her  sous  and  daughters,  —  all  carried  me  back  to  the  other  side 
of  the  Atlantic.'' 

Grand  Hirer  (Tarditi"'s  inn)  is  a  hamlet  about  4  i\L  beyond  St.  Leonard, 
nt  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same  name. 


p  ■ 


The  bt.  Johi  Elver  to  the  Jiestigouche. 


.-s  :..:*  ?■■' 


i'a 


MADAWASKA. 


Jionfe  13.      57 


enps  from 
s  over  the 
1  for  I  M. 

are  from 
ed  by  the 
Is  always 
eet  into  a 
i  its  orio;i- 

I  the  rug- 
,'e  become 

II  hir^'or ' 
Rdjiule  de 
the  Fulls, 
it. 

their  tribe 
iirty  of  tlie 
riv(>r  to  nt- 
ilu'iii  down, 
iiiii  wjis  all 
es  tojit'ther 

till'  (Jruiid 
hostile  war- 
akeii  when 
Ir"  river  be- 

tribe. 


bank  of 

faniiinjj;- 

irly  all  of 

St.  John 

the  simi- 

is  largely 


ear  Grand 

in  Nor- 

a  dillVrent 

re  sliiniiig 

■arant'e  of 

other  side 

Leonard, 


T  Acadian 
L'i<  iif  time 
ig  the  St. 
A  port- 
\v  cinreat 

see  Houw 

477). 


0  M.  above  Grand  River  is  St.  Basil,  with  1,400  inhabitants  and  a  large 
('athnlic  Church  and  the  Convent  and  School  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  A  few 
miles  beyond  are  some  islands  in  tiie  St.  .lohn  liiver,  over  whicli  is  seen 
the  American  village  of  (Jranf  Isle  ((\vr's  inn),  a  place  of  TOO  iidial)itanta, 
all  of  wliom  are  .Acadians.  This  village  was  incorporated  in  180!),  ami  is 
on  the  IJ.  S.  n.ail-route  from  Van  liuren  to  Fort  Kijnt,  lieyond  (Ireen 
Kiver  the  road  continues  around  the  tjreat  bend  of  the  St.  .lohn  to  the 
Acadian  settlement  of  Edmundston  (yl'AnH.s'  llutil.  J/otd  /idhin)  :\{  ihecon- 
lluence  of  the  Madawaska  and  tSt.  John  Rivers.  This  is  the  centre  of 
the  Acadian-French  setllenients  which  extend  from  the  Grand  Falls. 
'Ibis  district  is  studded  with  Roman  Catholic  chapels,  and  is  divided  into 
narrow  farms,  on  which  are  quaint  little  houses.  There  are  rich  tracts  of 
intervale  along  the  rivers,  and  the  people  are  generally  in  a  prosperous 
and  happy  condition.  The  visitor  should  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  loftily 
situated  old  block-house  tower,  ove.  Edmundston,  for  the  sake  of  the 
wide  prospect  over  the  district.  The  village  is  rather  crude,  but  the 
scenery  about  it,  including  the  great  river,  the  rich  meadows,  the  far- 
away Mt,  ( "armel,  is  very  charming.  The  best  of  fishing  (trout  and 
whitelish,  (uladi  and  toque,  — these  l.i  ler  weighing  from  ID  to  35  pounds 
each)  is  to  be  enjoyed  in  this  vicinit}-,  particularly  in  Fish  River  and  the 
Eagle  Lakes,  Green  Riv^r,  and  the  Temiscouata  region. 

This  people  is  descended  from  the  Frencli  colonists  who  lived  on  the  shores  of  the 
Bay  of  Fundy  and  the  IJiisin  of  .Minus  at  tlm  mi. Idle  of  the  IStli  century.  When 
the  cruel  edietof  oxile  was  carried  into  effeet  in  17").')  (see  Route  21),  many  of  the 
Acadians  fled  from  the  An^lo-Anu'rican  troops  and  took  refuj^e  in  the  forest.  A  por- 
tion of  them  ascended  th(?  ."^t.  ,lolin  to  tlie  present  site  of  Fredericton,  and  founded 
a  new  home  ;  l)i.it  they  wure  ejected  130  years  later,  in  order  tii.vt  tlni  land  niifiht  bo 
given  to  the  refugee  American  Loyalists.  Then  tiiey  advanced  into  the  trackless 
forest,  and  .settled  in  the  iMadawaska  region,  wlune  they  hiive  been  ]iermitted  to  re- 
main undisturbed.  When  tlie  Anujrican  frontier  was  jiushed  forward  to  the  8t. 
.lohn  Hiver,  by  the  sh;irp  diplomacy  of  Mr.  Webster,  the  Acadians  found  themselves 
divided  by  a  national  Imniidary  ;  and  so  they  still  remain,  nearly  half  of  the  villages 
iieing  on  the  side  of  the  ITnited  States.  It  is  esiiniated  that  there  are  now  about 
8,000  persons  in  these  settlements. 

"  It  was  pleasant  to  drive  along  tiie  wide  flat  intiTvale  which  formed  tlie  Mada- 
waska Valley  ;  to  see  the  riidi  crops  of  oats,  buckwheat,  and  potatoes  :  the  large, 
often  liandsonie,  and  externally  clean  and  comfortable-looking  houses  of  the  Inlmb- 
itants,  with  the  woodi^d  high  grounds  at  a  distani'c  on  our  right,  and  the  river  on 
our  left,  —  on  whicli  an  occasional  boat,  laden  with  stores  for  the  lumberers,  with 
the  help  of  stout  horses,  toiled  against  the  current  towards  the  rarely  visited  he.ail- 
waters  of  the  tributary  streams,  where  the  virgin  forests  still  stfiod  unconscious  of 
the  axe.  This  beautiful  valley,  with  the  rich  lands  whiih  border  the  river  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Madawaska,  as  fa>'  .almost  as  that  of  the  river  St.  Franci.^,  is  the 
lieculiar  .^eat  of  the  old  Acadian-Fremdi.-'     (I*R0''.  .Johnston.) 

The  American  village  of  Madawawk:!  (two  inns)  is  opposite  Edmundston,  and 
has  over  1,0('0  inhabitants.  The  U,  S.  ,nail-stages  run  from  tViis  point  up  the  val- 
ley of  the  St.  .lohn  for  10  M,  to  another  Acadian  village,  which  was  first  named 
Dionne  (in  honor  of  Father  Dionne,  who  tonndeil  here  the  Church  of  St.  Luce)  ;  in 
lb(5"J  was  incori>i .rated  as  Dickeyville,  in  honor  i>f  solium  local  statesman  :  ami  in  1><7I 
name  of  Freticliville,  "  as  dcscrioing  the  nationality  of  its  settlers." 
:>nc!!Yi!!e  .'i  port.sgc  ',  M  ioiif;'  leads  ro  the  shores  of  I.ftke  Cipvelan^, 
if  water  '.*  M.  long,  connected  by  Secoud  Lake  uud  Lake  Preble  with 
k,  svhich  is  ueuriy  10  .M,  long. 


I 


n:: 


f 


58       Hoide  IS. 


TEMTSCOUATA  LAKE. 


16  M.  S.  W.  of  Madawaska  is  Fort  Kent,  an  old  border-post  of  the  U.  S.  Army.  It 
has  two  UJ11S  Mild  about  1,0()(I  iiibiibitiiiits  (iiicludiiij!;  the  adjiueiit  tarii)in)f  s-ettle- 
nionts),  and  is  tlic  t»'riiiimi>  of  the  iiiail-rovite  from  Van  lUiix-n.  From  this  point 
etagi's  run  \\  .  20  M.  to  the  Atadian  village  of  St..  Francis,  near  the  inoutb  of  tlie  St. 
l<'rau(  is  Hiver.  Tlu!  latter  streain",  llowing  from  tlu^  N.  W .,  is  tlie  boundary  of  the 
L'nited  States  for  (he  next  4(1  M.,  dcseenilinij:  thvough  the  long  lakes  called  W'ela- 
t^tooU\\aagan;is,  I'eehtawcolvaagoniie,  and  I'ohenegamook.  Above  tlie  mouth  of 
the  St.  Franeis.  the  St.  John  River  is  iiu  liided  in  tlie  State  of  Maine,  and  tlows 
tlii'ongh  tliat  imn.eiise  and  trackless  forest  whieh  covers  "  an  extent  seven  times  that 
of  tlu'  famous  IJlack  Forest  of  Germany  at  its  largest  expanse  in  modern  times.  The 
States  of  Rhode  Island,  Coniieeticut,  and  Delaware  could  be  lost  together  iu  our 
northern  fonsts,  and  still  leave  about  each  a  margin  of  wilderness  sufflcieiitly  wide 
to  muko  tlie  ex|ilorati()n  without  a  compass  a  work  of  desperate  adventure"  Its 
c!iief  tributary  in  the  woods  is  the  Allagash,  which  descends  from  the  great  Lakes 
Pengoekwaheii  and  Chamberlain,  near  the  Chesuncook  and  Moo.sehead  Lakes  and 
the  lie.al-waters  of  the  Penobscot. 

Tlu^  IOa.Cl<'  Iraki's,  in  Maine,  are  visited  henee  (guides  .btaincd  at  Whitney's) 
]iy  a  piirtage  ot  o',  M  from  Fr<nvhrilli\  5  M  above  Edniuiilston,  to  Lnnij  Lnlce, 
whence,  by  Mud,  Cross,  S(iuare,  and  Kagle  Likes,  and  Fish  River,  tlie  canoes  de- 
scend through  iieautH'iil  .scenery  to  Fort  Kent.  20  M.  abovj  Eduiuudston.  There 
are  famous  burbot  ami  whitcfish  in  these  lakes. 

From  Edmnndston  the  Temisooiiata  liailway  loaves  the  St.  John,  and 
ascoiid.s  the  W.  short  of  tlie  Aludawaska.  But  few  settleme.uts  are  passed, 
and  at  12  M.  from  Kdimiudston  tYe  Province  of  Quebec  is  entered. 
About  25  ]\I.  frciii  Edmiindston  the  road  reaches  the  foot  of  the  picturesque 
Temiscouata  Lake,  where  there  is  a  small  village.  The  road  is  parallel 
with  the  water,  but  at  a  considerable  distance  from  it,  until  near  the 
upper  part,  and  pretty  views  are  atforded  from  various  points  where  it 
overlooks  the  hike. 

Temiscouata  is  an  Indian  word  meaning  "  Winding  Water,"  and  the  lake 
is  30  M.  long  by  2-3  ]\I.  wide.  The  scenery  is  very  pretty,  and  the  clear 
deep  waters  contain  many  fish,  the  best  of  which  are  the  tuladi,  or  great 
gray  trout,  which  sometimes  weighs  over  12  pounds..  There  are  aNo  white- 
fish  and  burbot.  Visitors  to  the  lake  usually  stop  at  the  Lake-Side  House, 
where  canoes  may  be  obtained.  From  the  \Y.,  Temiscoiia<:a  receives  the 
Cabiueau  Hiver,  the  outlet  of  Ljug  Lake  (15  by  2  M.):  and  on  ihe  E.  is 
the  Tuladi  Ri\-or,  which  rises  in  the  highlands  of  Kiinouski  and  flows 
down  through  a  chain  of  secluded  and  ranly  visited  lakelets.  The  chief 
settlemon,  on  Temiscouata  Lake  's  the  French  Catholic  bauilet  of  Notre 
Da/ii,'  (hi  Lac,  which  was  foiuided  since  1801  and  has  180  inhabitants. 
Fort  Ingalls  commanded  the  lake,  and  had  a  garrison  of  200  men  as  late 
as  1850. 

At  th«  mouth  of  the  Tuladi.  285  barrels  of  whitefl.«h  were  taken  in  the  fall  run 
of  1>78.  1  M.  up  are  falls,  i'rom  whieh  the  still  Tuladi  may  be  ascended  for  16  M., 
to  the  Forb.s,  wliere  the  fl-ihing  is  very  good.  Deer,  bears,  caribou,  and  other  game 
abound  in  these  vast  untro(Mon  forests.  A  f•lvoI•'^e  trip  for  sportsmen  leads  from 
I'ldiniindsfon  (i*<  /'arriage)  up  tlie  Madawaska  to  OriiTln's,  IH  M  .  then  a  portage  of 
2\  M.  to  Mud  Lake:  then  a  lo'c/  and  delightful  canoe-descent  to  Fourth  Squ«-took 
Lake  :  then  down  into  Third  S<)ua  took,  from  who.se  shore  rises  the  noble-viewing 
Squa-took  Peak  ;  and  then  down  to  the  Forks,  and  along  the  Tuladi  River  to  Temis- 
couata Lake. 

Tlie  road  from  Temiscouata  Lake  to  Riviere  du  Loup  is  40-50  M.  long, 

and  descends  through  a  wild  region  into  which  few  settlers  have  advanced 


SHEDIAC. 


Rutice  U.       59 


\.  Army.    It 

UM\\r   H»ttle- 

I  tins  }i()iiit 
til  of  the  St. 
idar^  of  the 
•alk'd  VS't'la- 
.0  mouth  of 
',  and  tlowa 

II  times  tliut 
times.  The 
tlior  in  our 
cit'iitly  wide 
itiire  "  Its 
great  Laliea 
1  Lul<.e8  and 

Wliitnev's) 
'^<^n<j  Lake, 

canoes  de- 
ton.     There 


John,  and 
ire  passed, 
s  entered, 
licturesque 
is  parallel 
il  near  the 
s  where  it 

id  the  hiko 
I  the  clear 
,  or  great 
'.so  white- 
ide  House, 
eives  the 
I  he  E.  is 
uid  flows 
The  chief 
of  Notre 
labitants. 
n  as  late 


le  fall  run 
for  16  M., 
ther  pame 
eads  from 
portage  of 
SquH-took 
le-viewing 
■  to  Teniis- 

M.  long, 
dvaiiced 


14.    St.  Jolin  to  Shediac. 

Distances.  —  St.  John  to  Moncton,  89  M.  ;  Painstc  J  auction,  97;  Dorchester 
lloacl,  1U2  i  Shediac,  10(3 ;  Point  du  Cheue,  108. 

St.  .John  to  Pain.«ec  .Junction,  see  Route  16. 

I'asseiigers  for  Shediac  and  Point  du  Chfine  change  cars  nt  Painseo 
.Junction,  and  pass  to  the  X.  E.  over  a  level  and  unproductive  country. 

Shediac  {Wddon;  IFl'ire/'/ey )  is  a  vdlage  of  500  inhabitants,  with  3 
churches,  —  Baptist,  the  Catholic  St.  .Joseph  de  Shediac,  and  St.  Andrew's, 
the  head  of  a  rural  deanery  of  the  Anglican  church.  The  town  is  well 
situated  on  a  broad  harbor,  which  is  sheltered  by  Shediac  Island,  l)ut  its 
commerce  is  inconsiderable,  lieing  limited  to  a  few  cargoes  of  lumber  and 
deals  sent  aMnually  to  Great  Britain.  The  small  oysters  (  Ostrea  aavuhmh) 
of  the  adjacent  waters  are  also  exported  to  the  provincial  cities.  Sliediac 
was  occupied  by  a  French  garrison  in  1750,  to  protect  the  borders  of 
Acadia,  and  in  1757  there  were  2,000  French  and  Acadian  troops  and 
settlers  here.  The  French  element  is  still  predominant  in  this  vicinity, 
and  its  interests  are  represented  by  a  weekly  paper  called  "Z,e  Moniteur 
Acadien.''' 

Point  du  Chi'ne  (Point  du  Chene  House)  is  2  M.  N.  E.  of 

Shediac,  and  is  the  E.  terminus  of  the  railwsiy  and  t'le  St.  Jjawrence  port 
nearest  to  St.  John.  It  has  a  village  of  about  200  inhabitants,  with  long 
piers  reaching  out  to  the  deep-water  channels.  From  this  point  passen- 
gers embark  on  the  steamcts  for  Prince  F  Iward  Island.  Daily  steamers 
run  fro'.u  Point  du  Cliene  to  Summerside,  P.  E.  I.,  ■where  thoy  make  con- 
nections with  the  trains  of  the  V.  E.  I.  Railway  (see  Route  43)  for  Cliar- 
lottetown  and  all  parts  of  the  island. 

Passengers  leave  St.  John  at  8  A.  M.,  and  reach  Charlottetown  at  8  p.  M. 


The  Westmorland  Coast.  Infrequent  mail-stages  run  E.  from  Shediac  by  Point 
du  ChSnc  to  Barachoiji,  8  M.  ;  Todi.sh,17;  Great  Sliemogue  (Avard's  Hotel),  22; 
and  Little  Sliemogue.  24.  Tliese  f^ettlements  contain  about  1,500  inhabitants,  most 
of  whom  are  Acadiaiis.  Capes  .lourimain  (fixed  wiiite  light,  visible  14  M.)  and  Tor- 
mentine  are  respectively  15  M.  and  20  M.  E.  of  Little  Shemogue. 

10- 12  M.  N .  of  Shediac(inail-stage daily)  arethe  large  and  prosperous  Acadian  settle- 
ments of  the  Coragnes  (tliree  inns),  having  about  1,500  inhabitants,  Seven  eighths  of 
whom  are  of  French  descent.  These  people  are  nearly  all  farmers,  engaged  in  tilling 
the  level  plains  of  Dundas,  although  a  good  harbor  opens  between  the  villages.  21  M. 
from  Shediac  is  Buctovche  (two  inns),  a  prosperous  Acadian  village  of  400  inhab- 
itants, engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  iu  the  exportation  of  lumber  and  oysters. 

The  Buctonche  and  Moncton  Railway  rune  through  a  fine  farm- 

ing cuuuii,),  ciUriaiug  Cocague. 


I 


il 

f  \ 


59  a    lUmU  77.        ST.  JOHN  TO  QUEBEC. 


ill 

I' 


/a  J: 


77.  St.  John  and  Halifax  to  Quebec. 

The  Intprcolonial  Uaihvay  \a  the  gigantic  and  costly  outgrowth  of  the  Canadian 
National  sentiment,  wliicli  ha.s  established  here  a  perfectly  eqiiip^)ed  railway  route 
of  vast  extent,  through  a  region  which  can  never  pay  the  co.^t  of  its  operation, 
being  thinly  settled,  and  expo.'sed  to  very  serious  climatic  vici.'ssitudes,  Jt  was 
deemed  essential  to  h"ve  a  first-claas  route  between  the  maritime  and  inland  prov- 
inces, entirely  on  Canadian  territory,  even  though  the  distance  is  nearly  doiiblo 
that  across  New  England.  The  first  road  was  surveyed  by  Major  Vule,  II.  E.,  botbro 
1840,  and  ran  across  th(;  present  Northern  Maine,  then  claimed  and  partly  held  by 
Canada.  In  1S46-48  a  new  route  was  carefully  laid  out  by  officers  of  tlie  Royal 
i'riginocra.  The  construction  began  in  18t3l>,  and  was  finished  in  1870.  This  great 
nnlitary  route  runs  from  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  at  Riviere  du 
Loup,  to  Rimouski,  where  it  leaves  tiie  J«t.  liawrcnce,  and  crosses  the  lonely  high- 
land.'i  of  Quoliec,  reaching  grades  748  ft.  above  the  sea,  a.ua  descends  to  the  Bay 
('haleur.  Tiience  it  runs  down  the  north  shore  of  New  Hrunswick,  and  dowu  aci oss 
Nova  Scotia,  to  Halifa.x,  its  magnificent  winter-harbor.  From  the  niiun  line  there 
are  branches  to  Dalhousie,  Chatham,  Richibucto,  Point  du  ChSne,  &i.  John,  and 
Pictou.     The  entire  length  of  track  is  about  850  M. 


Stations  (Moncton   to  Quebec). —Moncton  to  Rerry'a  Mills,  8  M.  :   Canaan, 
19;  Coal  Branch,  2S;   \Veldf(>rd^37;   Kent  Junction,  48  ;  Ro„'ersvi]]e,  57  ;  1Jarn;iby 


St.  Flavie,  '>'■<;  St.  Luce,  20i> :  .^t,  .\naclct-,  ?m  \  Riniou^ki,  «'!:»;  .Sacre  Cceur' 
817;  I'lc,  ;Uit:  St.  F.abicn,  328  ;  St.  Simon,  338  :  Trois  i'istoles,  347  ;  St.  Eloi,  353  ; 
Isle  Verte,  3;)8;  St  Ar.^ene,  3'3t; ;  Cacouna,  3*58  :  Rivi('re  du  Lo,ip,  374:  Notre 
Dame  du  Portage,  380  ;  St.   Alexamln',  SSC) :  St.  Andr.  ,  301;  St    Ilolcne.  .304:  St. 


490;  Quebec,  500. 


For  nearly  80  M.,  from  Moncton  to  Newcastle  (see  page  G2),  the  route 
lies  over  a  dull  roiutry  (railway  from  Kent  Junction  to  Kichibucto). 
Steamers  run  hence  to  Chatham  (also  a  branch  railway)  and  up  the  Mira- 
niiclii,  and  carriages  30  JNl  tu  the  hotel  on  the  Tabusiutac,  famous:  lor 
great  sea-trout.  The  railway  crosses  the  Miramichi  on  innnense  iron 
bridges,  carried  by  12  sKnie  ])ier.s,  and  runs  for  nearly  50  M.  to  Bathurst 
(see  page  Go),  wliere  it  crosses  the  Xepisiguit  on  ii  long  bridge  of  English 
iron.  The  scenery  is  nuich  tiiur,  as  the  train  rushes  on,  Avith  fre(iuent 
glimpses  of  the  Bay  of  Chalour,  for  50  M.,  to  Dalhousie  (see  page  07),  9 
M,  beyond  which  is  Campbellton  (page  G8),  with  its  railway  dining-room. 
Charming  scenery  follows,  and  the  line  crosses  the  Restigouche  liiver  on  a 
noble  iron  bridge,  and  enters  the  Trovince  of  Quebec. 


^S'1, 


le  route 
libucto). 
le  M  i  ra- 
il oiu  ibr 
use  iron 
athurst 
English 
're(iuent 
gi;  (17),  9 
ig-rooju. 
ver  on  a 


y*-' 


ST.  JOHN  TO  QUEBEC.        Rute77.      59  6 


I 


Canadian 
way  route 
operation, 
5.  Jt  was 
and  prov- 
rly  double 

E.,  before 
;Iy  held  by 
tlie  Royal 
riiis  great 
Riviere  du 
mt'ly  liigli- 
o  tlie  Bay 
own  acioss 

line  tliere 
Jolin,  and 


;   Canaan, 
;  Harnaby 

Irooli,  8S; 
in  no,  142; 
npbel)ton, 
cril,  23'); 
[.His,  282; 
ere  Cteiir, 
Kloi,  ,3j3  ; 
'A  :    Notre 
.3!H;  St. 
41:-,;  St. 
;  T/ Islet, 
rre,  459 ; 
Henri, 
oint  Levi, 


The  Baie-des-Chale^^rs  Railway  runs  alonj?  tlio  N".  shore  of  the  bav, 
from  Motapedia  to  Carlton  (40  M.),  and  is  bein^  proloii<^cd  to  Pa.spebiac 
(100  M.)  nnd  Gasp'-  M70  ^].). 

Beyond  the  hamlet  of  Metapodia,  the  line  begins  the  long  ascent  of  the 
Metapedia  valley,  a  stretch  of  70  M,  of  wild,  mountain-girt,  island-dotted, 
Scottish  scenery,  with  no  villages  or  towns,  or  hotels.  Lake  Metapedia 
affords  a  beautiful  sight,  and  abounds  in  lish  and  game,  but  no  accommo- 
dations for  tourists  have  yet  been  prepared.  Vast  forests  hem  in  the  road 
on  every  side,  strc  ching  Ibr  many  leagues  along  the  dreary  and  uiiinhai)- 
ited  highlands.  About  the  only  product  of  the  region  is  salmon,  the  long 
and  rapid  Metapedia  River  affording  fair  sport  to  one  or  two  owners  of  tish'» 
ing  lodges.  ...  A  few  small  lumber-mills  have  been  started  within  a 
year  or  two,  around  which  are  clustered  the  wooden  dwellings  of  the  work- 
men. 

Sayabeo,  a  few  miles  farther  on,  through  the  woods,  is  a  lonely  sta- 
tion at  the  crossing  of  the  old  military  road  from  Quebec  to  New  Bruns- 
wick. A  long  up-grade  leads  thence  to  Malphet  Lake,  and  soon  reaches 
the  Tartigon  iiiver,  which  it  follows  down  to  the  village  of  the  same  name. 
A  dreary  stretch  of  track  follows,  partly  obscured  in  deep  rocky  cuttings, 
and  partly  running  through  the  dt'hris  of  burned  forests,  and  conducting, 
at  last,  to  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  by  the  Metis  Falls  and 
the  great  cuttings  near  St.  Octave,  Avhich  is  the  .station  for  the  Grand  and 
Little  Metis,  famous  salmon-streams,  where  good  hunting  is  found.  There 
is  a  large  summer-hotel  at  Little  Metis.  The  Grand  Metis  River  is  crossed 
by  a  long,  lofty,  and  costly  railwa}'  bridge,  supported  on  high  stone 
abutments  a  mile  or  two  below  which  is  the  (Irand  Metis  Fall,  where  the 
river  descends  75  ft.  at  a  single  plunge.  A  few  miles  beyond  is  St.  Flavie, 
where  the  route  enters  the  more  thickly  settled  French  country  along  the 
St.  Lawrence. 


:^.-J: 


60     Route  15. 


RICHIBUCTO. 


n: 


It!.. 


!^^ 


-M 


15.  The  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  North  Shore  of  New 

Brunswick. 

Since  thR  cntistniction  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  the  routes  of  Pro- 
vincial travel  have  nndersone  many  important  chan^^es,  particnlarlv 
around  the  N.  shore  of  New  Hrunswick,  where  the  trains  on  this  great 
route  have  supplanted  the  services  of  the  steamships.  The  ref^nlar  steam- 
ship lines  between  Quebec  and  Prince  Kdward  Island,  which  used  to  serve 
these  ports,  now  no  more  visit  the  shores  of  New  Hrunswick.  * 

The  (Quebec  steamships  do  n(»t  now  go  ap  the  liay  of  Clidenr,  but  the 
account  of  the  Bay  is  retained  for  the  use  of  voyagers  by  other  vessels. 
A  steamboat  leaves  Dalhousie  several  times  a  week  for  ports  on  the  Bay  of 
Chaleur,  running  out  as  far  as  Gaspc. 

Richibucto  (Pltair's  Jlottl)  is  the  capital  of  Kent  County,  and  occupies 
a  favorable  position  for  commerce  and  shipbuilding  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Richibucto  Kiver.  It  has  about  800  inhabitants  and  3  churches,  and  is 
engaged  in  the  exportation  of  lumber  and  canned  lobsters.  The  river  is 
navigable  for  20  M.,  and  has  been  a  great  highway  for  lumber-vessels, 
although  now  the  supply  of  the  forests  is  welhiigb  exhausted.  In  the 
region  about  Richibucto  are  many  Acadian  farmers,  and  tlie  liainlet  Oi  At' 
douin  liiver,  4  M.  from  the  town,  pertains  to  this  people.  The  Kent 
Northern  Railway  runs  27  M.  S.  W.  from  Richibucto  to  Kingston  and 
Kent  Junction  {Brown's  Hotel)  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway.  The  rail- 
wav  leads  also  N.  W.  7  M.  to  St,  Louis,  with  its  convent  and  sacred  well. 
A  road  leads  S.  \V.  through  the  wilderness  to  the  Grand-Lake  district  (see 
pages  48—40). 

The  Beaches  ($2-3  a  day;  reductions  for  season)  is  a  new  summer- 
resort  near  Richibucto,  with  accommodations  for  200  guests,  with  capital 
facilities  for  boating  and  batliing,  tishingand  shooting,  sailing  and  driving, 
bowling  and  billiards,  etc.,  and  grounds  for  tennis  and  cricket,  croquet 
and  base-ball.  Indian  guides  may  be  obtained  here.  There  is  no  piano 
in  the  main  building. 

Richibucto  and  The  Beaches  are  reached  only  by  the  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way and  the  K^nt  Northern  &  St.  Louis  Railway. 

The  name  Richibucto  Minifies  "  the  River  of  Fire,"  and  the  shores  of  the  rircr 
and  bay  werp  formerly  iiihabitod  by  .i  ferocious  and  bloodthirsty  tribe  of  ludiiiu;. 
So  late  as  17^7,  when  the  American  Loyahst  Powell  fiettled  here,  there  were  but  four 
Christian  tamilies  (and  they  were  Acadians^)  in  all  tliis  region  (the  present  county  of 
Kent).     The  power  of  the  Richibuctos  was  broken  in  1724,  when  all  their  wurricrs, 


f  New 


I  of  Pro- 
ticularly 
lis  givnt 
\r  steani- 

l  to  serve 

« 

,  but  the 
'  vessels. 
le  Bav  of 

occupies 
th  of  tlie 
s,  and  is 
river  is 
r-vessels, 
In  tlie 
let  oi  Al' 
he  Kent 
:ston  and 
The  rail- 
red  well, 
trict  (eee 

summer- 
»  capital 
drivinj;, 
croquet 
no  piano 

lial  Rail- 


thc  rircr 

ludiuu'-. 

but  four 

[•ounty  of 

\varriors> 


CHATHAM. 


R'jHte  15.       61 


umler  command  of  Argimoosh  ("  tho  Great  Wizard  "),  attacked  Canso  and  captured 
17  MasHachusetts  veswls.  Two  well-inanncd  vessels  of  Boston  and  Cape  Ann  were 
sent  aft«!r  them,  and  overtook  the  Ii'''  in  tlei>toti  the  coast.  A  dos|)crato  naval  battle 
ensued  bofwcen  the  .MiMsachuscV,-  .-jloop-*  and  tlie  Indian  prizo-ships.  The  Itidii- 
biictos  fonjrht  with  great  Viilor,  but  were  finally  disconcerted  by  showers  of  hand- 
grenades  from  the  A'"  'vi<'ans,and  nearly  every  warrior  was  either  killed  or  drowne.i. 

Aftv^r  (Muertrinj;  .  -(in  Hic^liihneto  harbor,  the  steamer  runs  N.  across  tho 
opening!  of  the  shallow  KouchibnupiKic  Hay,  whoso  shores  are  low  sand- 
bars 1111(1  boju'lies  whicli  enclose  shoal  lafjoons.  5  M.  above  Point  Sapin  is 
Kscinmnac  Point.,  on  which  is  a  powerful  white  li^ht,  visible  for  25  M. 
The  course  is  now  laid  more  to  the  W.,  across  the  Miramichi  Bay,  and  on 
the  1.  are  seen  the  pilots'  village  and  the  lighthouses  on  Preston's  Beach. 
The  entrance  to  tiio  Inner  Bay  of  Miramichi  is  between  Fox  Island  and 
Porta,u;e  Island,  the  latter  of  which  bears  a  lighthouse.  The  Inner  Bay  is 
13  M.  long  and  7-8  M.  wide,  and  on  the  S.  is  seen  Vin  Island,  back  of 
which  is  the  liny  (fu  Vin.  Two  centuries  ago  all  this  shore  was  occupied 
by  French  settlements,  whose  only  remnant  now  is  the  hamlet  of  Portage 
Bond,  in  a  remote  corner  of  the  bay. 

When  about  9  M.  from  the  entrance,  the  steamer  passes  between  Point 
Quiirt  and  Grand  Dxuw  Isbiiid  (on  the  v.),  which  are  3^  M.  apart.  3-4 
^I.  farther  on,  the  course  is  betwer'n  Oak  Point,  with  its  two  lighthouses 
(on  the  r.),  and  Clieval  Point,  beyond  wdiich  is  the  populous  valley  of  ^he 
Napan  Kiver,  on  the  S.  The  hamlet  of  Black  Brook  is  visible  on  the  1., 
and  off  Point  Xapan  is  Sheldrake  Island,  a  low  and  swampy  land  lying 
across  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  vessel  now  enters  the  Miramichi 
River,  and  on  the  r.  is  the  estuary  of  the  Great  Rartibog,  with  the  beacon- 
lights  on  Malcolm  Point.  The  Miramichi  is  here  a  nobie  stream,  fully 
1  M.  wide,  but  flowing  between  low  iV  d  uninteresting  shores. 

Chatham  (Adnvis  Hotifie ;  Canada  H  ".se)  is  the  chief  town  on  the  North 
Shore,  and  has  a  population  of  nerily  5,000,  with  5  churches,  a  weekly 
newspaper,  and  a  Masonic  hall.  It  is  24  M.  from  the  sea,  and  is  built 
along  the  S.  shore  of  the  river  for  a  distance  of  1^  M.  On  the  summit  of 
the  hill  along  which  the  town  is  built  is  seen  a  great  pile  of  Catholic  in- 
stitutions, among  which  are  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Michael,  tli,e  convent  and 
hospital  of  the  Hotel  Dieu  dc  Chatha*  %  and  St.  Michael's  College.  These 
buildings,  like  all  the  rest  of  the  town,  are  of  wood.  The  chief  industries 
of  Chatham  are  shipbuilding  and  the  exportation  of  fish  and  lumber,  and 
the  river  here  usually  contains  several  large  ships,  which  can  anchor  ofE 
the  wharves  iu  G-8  lathouis.    liailroau  to  I'redericton,  see  page  47. 

About  22  M.  beyond  Chatham  are  the  head-waters  of  the  Tabusintac  Rlrer 

"  the  >portsman's  paradise."  a  narrow  and  shallow  stream  iu  which  an  abuudance 
of  trnut  is  found. 

Tri-weekly  staj;es  run  from  Chatham  N.  E.  to  0:^^  Point,  11  M.  ;  Burnt  Church 
2(1;  Neguac,2o:  Tabusiutac,  37;  Tii- .die,  52;  I'ockuiouche,  G4  ;  t?hippigau,  70:' 
and  Canquette  (^  Lower)-  73.    Tne  fx-    .    '  '1,  of  this  road  are  along  (or  near)  the  N 
shore  of  tae  .Mirauiicui  Kiver  aud  r.i-.        i?r  Bay,  by  the  hamiuta  oi  Oak  I'oiut  and 
Suriit  Cuurcu. 


62       Itmite  15. 


THE  M  IRA  MICH  I. 


h;i 


h 


n. 


^4 


I 


i. 


li?!:. 


if' 


if  ft! 

%f    i  I  li, 


Burnt  Church  is  ftill  tho  capital  of  flip  Minrar  Tmlianf  of  tlie  Provinop,  nnd 
here  tlie.v  Katlic/  in  preat  nuiiil>crs  on  St.  Aiiiu-V  Day  and  » iipiKP  in  rt-liKJous  rit«8 
an<l  athictic  sportn  uiid  drnui's  Hon  Arthur  CJonloii  saM* :  "I  wafi  Mirprispil  by 
thf  niriouH  ri'scnililaiicH  u,  it'ii  tlu.-c  iIiiimps  ami  tliofc  ot  flic  (imk  pci^aiitry- 
Kven  tli<>  ('nr<tiinu's  wtTf  ill  MHiic  iltvii')' i-iiiiilar,  ami  1  notiicil  inoi  Mian  one  nlurt 
colored  silk  jatkft  ami  hamlkcrdiii-f  hnuiid  liiad  that  cariicd  ii  -  ik  to  Itliacu 
and  I'axo."     'V  awnoN  'J'ol'KIMs,  IHty  ) 

TaliUMiiitiic  (small  inn)  is  near  fhf  month  of  the  Tahnsiiitac  JUvcr,  and  is  a 
I'rcshytcrian  viilairp  of  alxjut  400  inliahitants,  ii.o.-f  if  wlmm  arc  cn^a^nl  in  the 
llshories.  Many  larp;  sra-troiit  aro  canglit  near  tlir  n.oufh  of  the  rivtr,  ami  in 
OcfohiT  iinmonsfi  numhcrs  of  wild  (rci'.-i'  and  dm  ks  aii"  shot  in  the  adjai  tiit  liinooiis. 

Tr:u  a<lf«?  is  ii  scttli  incnt  \\hi(li  contains  l,'i(  0  French  Aiadiaiis,  and  is  sitnatid 
near  a  h'  )iid  lagoon  which  lies  inside  a  line  of  sand-hars.  Salmon,  rod,  and  herrinj^ 
arc  found  in  tlie  adjacent  vaters,  and  most  of  the  people  are  enfiapd  in  thi  fish- 
cries.  Tho  Trnrnr/ie  Lnznrftto  is  devoted  to  the  rcce|)tion  of  jicr.'ons  atHictcd  with 
the  leprosy,  which  jirevails  to  son  c  extent  in  this  distiict,  hut  hat-  diminished  since 
the  government,  f-cchnled  the  lepers  in  this  remote  hospital  There  is  an  old  tradi- 
tion that  the  lejirosy  was  iiiirodmed  into  tliis  region  dniini:  the  last  century,  when 
a  French  vessel  was  wrecked  on  the  coast,  son.e  of  whose  sailors  were  from  Mar- 
Hcilles  and  had  contracted  the  true  tlejilintilidsis  ^irrniyinn  (F.astern  leprosy)  in  tho 
Levant.  Its  perjtctuation  and  hereditary  transmission  is  attrihuted  to  the  clo.-ems.s 
of  the  rclatio;i  in  which  intermarriage  is  sanctioned  among  tho  Acadians  (sometimeH 
by  dispensations  from  the  Clinrch) 

Pockniiiurlii'  is  a  settle  n  cut  of  K  0  Acadian  farmers,  and  hero  the  mail-roiito 
forks,  —  one  road  runnii  g  t»  M.  >.'.  Iv  to  Sliiiijiigan  (see  jiago  (J4),  the  other  run- 
ning '.)  M.  N    to  Lower  Caraiiiictte  (,-ce  jiage  tldi. 

River-steamers  run  uj)  the  N.  W,  and  S  W.  branches,  and  occasionally  to  Burnt 
Church  and  Hay  du  Viu.  Another  river  steamer  runs  up  the  river  four  times  d.iily 
to  Nowcasrle  (.'i'M.))  touching  at  l)oiigla>town,  a  dingy  village  on  the  N.  bank,  wliere 
much  lumber  is  loaded  on  tho  ships  wnicli  take  it  nemo  to  Kurofie.  This  village 
coutaius  about  400  iuhabitams,  and  has  a  murim;  ho.-pital,  buiU  ot  stone. 

Newcastle  (  W-id  rity  Hotel)  is  the  ca;)itiil  of  Northumberland  Cotiiitv, 
and  is  situutod  .  tho  head  of  deep-water  navi<;ation  on  the  Miraniichi 
Kiver.  L;  has  ii'wont  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  en^'a^^'d  in  shipbuilding 
and  the  exi^rtation  of  lish  and  lunilier,  oysters,  and  preserved  lobsters. 
One  of  the  chief  stations  of  the  Intoreolonial  K'aiiwny  is  loeated  here,  and  a 
branch  line  has  been  built  to  Chatham.  loO,OUU,UOO  ft.  of  lumber  arc  ex- 
ported hence  annually.     There  are  h  churches  here. 

A  short  distance  above  Newcastle,  and  beyond  the  Irish  villa jrc  of  Nel- 
son, is  the  confluence  of  the  j;reat  ri.crs  known  as  tiieN.  W.  Miraiuichi 
nnd  the  S.  \V.  INIiramichi.  These  streams  are  crossed  by  the  lartrcst  and 
most  costly  bridfres  on  the  line  of  the  Intercolonial  L'aihvay.  The  name 
Miramichi  sio-nifies  "  Happy  Retreat,"  and  signifies  the  love  that  the  In- 
dians entertained  for  these  fine  hnntincj  and  fishing  f!;rounds.  The  ujiper 
■waters  of  the  rivers  traverse  wide  districts  of  nnsettled  country,  and  are 
visited  by  hardy  aixl  adventurous  sportsmen,  who  capture  large  numbers 
of  trout  and  salmon.  This  system  of  waters  is  connected  by  portages  with 
the  Nepisiguit,  the  Restigonche,  the  IJ'psalquitch,  the  Tobiqne,  and  tho 
Nashwaak  Rivers.  The  best  salmon-podls  are  on  the  S.  W.  Miramichi, 
beyond  Boiestown,  at  the  mouths  of  the  Salmon,  Rocky,  Clearwater,  and 
Burnt  Hill  Brooks.  A  railway  runs  from  Chatham  to  Boiestown  and 
Fredericton  (see  pa^e  47).  Steamboats  four  times  daily  from  Newcastle 
tu  Chulham. 


SIiri'lMGAN    ISLAND. 


Route  15.       63 


~ters. 
md  a 
cx- 

Xel- 
niolii 
and 
luie 
e  In- 
l.pov 
1  lire 
il)ers 
with 
I  the 
lichi, 
,  and 
and 
;u&tle 


Bfaiihnir'ii  Jslnml  Is  f.(T  iippor  Nelson,  and  wii«  forniprly  occupk'd  by  »  prospemus 
Fri'iii'h  ti)wn,  but  few  relics  of  wlii<'h  im-  now  to  bf  M'*'n  It  wiis  (ii'stiox-d  In  a 
Brlfi-li  iiiiviii  iitt;i(  k  in  ITiVJ  A  roloiiy  wiis  plimted  l»i«>  in  17-2,  uinhT  ('.inli.iiil 
Klfiirv's  aiiniinistnition,  iiml  w.is  proviiU'cl  wiiii  'Mi  lloU^^•s,  a  I'liuivh,  and  a  10  gun 
bat'cry. 

In  l()42-44  the  Miriiinichi  dishict  was  nccnpicil  by  .lean  .laiiucs  Kiiaud,  a  Ilaxpio 
(IiMitliMuan,  who  loiiiidi'd  tradiiiu^-iiosts  on  Mit.'  i>!'inds  and  mtrrcd  al-'o  npon  rlio 
walrus  lisliiiiit'S  Hut  ii  contiiifjctn  soon  uro-c  Ivtwcou  Knaud's  u\t'n  and  the  In- 
dians, by  rea.-on  of  wliieh  Hie  Hasiine  e.'f    l>lishnnrits  weiv  destroyed,  and  their  peo- 

"  ■  ■  111  I'M-',  after  the  Tii-alv"  of  IJredii.  several 
co.i-.   and  founded  a  villaire  at  Kav  dn  \  in. 


pie  wen"  forcdl  to  tlee  to  .Nepisij^uir 
families  from  St.  Malo  landed  oi\  tin 
From  1710  to  I7r)7  a  tloini-<lii    _  ti-id, 
and  Fraiic(\  ffreat  ((uantities  of  I 
and  the  relief-shiiis  from  l-'ranii    wi 
17')H  the  transport   I.' Itid'n init',i'^'   dn 
heartened  eolimists,  finiislicd  nn 
death      Many  of  the  French  setti 
Heaubair's  I'oint.     Those  who  sur\ , 
and  by  the  arrival  of  spriirj;  then!  weic 
In  17')1)  a  Ib'iiish  war-ves.-icl  enterecl 


II  between  the  Miramii  hi  eonntry 

Hut  the  crops  filled  in    17o7, 

bi   the   Hritish       In   the  winter  of 

■i  wreeki'il  in  the  bay,  and  the  dis- 

•V    111,  were   rajiidly   depleted    by 

lilt!  winter,  and  «ere  buried  on 

M  the  srene  of  such  bitter  suirerinj^, 

score  inhabitants  about  the  bay. 

for  wood  and  water,  and  the  tirsfc 


hoat's-rrcw  whicdi  landed  was  cut  oifand  exteiniinated  liy  the  Indians.  '1  he  fiiir.ato 
bombarded  the  Fii'iuh  Fort  batteries,  and  annihilated  the  town  lit  Canadi.in  ('i>vo. 
Then  sailinj?  tn  the  \.  K.,  the  coimnander  hinded  a  force  at  Nei;nac,  and  Imrnt  tho 
Catholic  ch  i|i(d,  x\w  inli  il>it:iiits  havinjr  (led  to  the  \wiods  Nc;,Miac  is  known  to  this 
day  only  by  flu!  iiaiin!  cd'  Hnrnt  ("hnrch.  After  this  fierce  foray  all  the  N.  coast  of 
New  IJriniswick  was  deserted  ami  relapsed  into  a  wilderness  state. 

In  1775  tliere  was  an  in>iiinifii'ant  .'"'cottdi  trailintr  post  on  the  S.  \V.  Mimmichi, 
where  l,"jiiO  -  l,S(H)  tierces  nf  silmon  were  cansht  annually.  This  was  once  surprised 
and  plundered  by  the  Indians  in  .sympitliy  with  the  Americans,  but  in  1777  the 
river  was  visiteil  by  the  sloop-of-war  Viinr  and  the  captured  American  privateer 
LfifhijiltP.  The  .\iiiericMn  (laix  was  displayed  on  the  latter  voKscI,  ami  it  was  },Nven 
out  th;it  her  crew  were  Hostonims,  by  which  iinaiis ;}.")  Indians  from  the  great  coun- 
cil at  Hartib'i<;  were  di'coyeii  on  board  and  carried  captive  to  Quebec. 

In  17'^d  the  Scottish  settlers  opened  lary;e  saw-mills  on  the  N.  W.  Mimmichi,  ami 
pover.al  families  of  American  Loyalists  settled  alon^  the  shore.  Vast  numbers  of 
masts  and  sjiirs  wen;  sent  hence?  to  the  Hritidi  d()ck-,\anls,  and  the  fj;rowth  of  tho 
Miraiiiiclii  was  rapid  and  s.atisfactory.  In  17'd'3  the  Judiaus  of  the  hills  }2;athereil 
secretlv  and  concerteil  pl;ins  to  exterminate  the  settlers  (who  had  mostly  t;ikcii 
refn,iie  in  Chatham),  hut  the  dinger  w;is  averted  by  the  interpodtion  of  tlio  French 
Catholic  priests,  who  cau-e(l  the  Indians  to  disperse. 

In  October,  lS2o,  this  district  was  desolated  bv  the  Rroat  Miranuchl  Fire,  which 
swept  over  .'J ,( Kit  I, (100  acres  of  forest,  and  destroyed  .S  l,(MlO,(tOO  worth  of  jiroperty  and 
1(]()  luim.iu  lives.  Tho  town  of  Ne.vca-tle  was  laid  in  ashes,  ;ind  all  {\\v  lower  Mi- 
ramiidii  Valley  V)ecame  a  blackened  wildern(\ss.  The  only  escape  for  lift?  w;is  by 
rushiiiff  into  the  rivers  while  the  storm  of  lin;  passed  overhead ;  and  here,  nearly 
covered  by  tlm  hissing  waters,  wv.vg  men  and  women,  the  wild  aniiuiils  of  the  woods, 
and  the  domestic  beasts  of  the  farm. 

On  letivinij;  the  Mirtimichi  Rivor  and  Bay  the  ves.so]  stotims  out  into  tlie 
Gi  If,  J(»avin!f  on  the  N.  W.  tlie  low  shores  of  Tabushitac  and  Trtictidic,  in- 
dented by  wide  and  shallow  lao-oons  (see  p:ige  62).  After  running  about 
35  M.  the  low  red  elifVs  tif  Shippigan  Island  are  ^^een  on  tho  W.  This 
island  is  12  M.  lono:  liy  8  M.  wide,  and  i.s  inhtibited  by  Acadian  fishermen. 
On  the  S.  \V.  shore  is  the  hamlet  of  Alexander  Toint,  on  Alemck  Btiv, 
opposite  the  populous  village  and  magnilieent  harbor  of  Shipjnr/an.  Thero 
are  valuable  fisheries  i)f  hcrrinir,  cod,  and  mtiekerel  ulf  these  shores,  and 
the  deep  triple  harbor  is  well  sheltered  by  the  islands  of  Shippigun  and 
Pooksuedie,  fonnincr  a  «ocuvo  Iriven  of  vefuire  for  the  Anvriran  and  Cana- 
dian fleets.     Noble  Vv'ild-duck  ^houluig  here  in  spriuj;"  and  I'all. 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  875-4503 


SP   Mi? 


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64      Route  15. 


BAY  OF  CHALEUR. 


Shlppl8:an  Harbor,  though  still  surrounded  bytbrepts,hns  occupied  a  prom- 
inent pliice  in  the  calculations  of  commerce  and  travel.  It  has  been  proposed  that 
the  Intercolonial  Railway  shall  connect  here  with  a  transHtiatitic  steamship  line, 
thus  withdrawing  a  large  portion  of  the  summer  travel  from  Halifax  and  New  York. 
The  distance  from  Sliii)i)igau  to  Liverpool  by  the  Straits  of  Helioisle  i.-<  148  M.  less 
than  the  distance  from  Halifax  to  Liverpool,  and  Shippigan  is  271  M.  nearer  Montreal 
than  is  Halifax. 

The  Ocean  Ferry.  —  The  following  plan  is  ingeniously  elaborated  and  pow- 
erfully supported,  and  is  perhaps  destined  to  reduce  the  tranf-atlantic  passage  to 
100  hours.  It  is  to  he  carried  out  with  strong,  swift  ex]»ress  steamers  on  the  Ocean 
and  the  Gulf,  and  through  trains  on  the  railways.  The  itinerary  is  as  follows : 
London  to  Valentia,  640  M.,  10  hours  ;  Valenti;i  to  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  1,()40  M.,  100 
hours;  St.  John's  to  St.  George's  Bay  (across  Newfoundland  by  railway)  250  M., 
8^  hours;  St.  George's  Bay  to  Shippigan  (across  the  Gulf),  250  M.,  i5i  hours; 
Shippiga-i  to  New  York,  i^tOij  M.,  31  hours  ;  London  to  New^  York,  171  hours,  or  7i 
days.  It  is  claimed  that  this  route  would  escape;  the  dangers  between  Cape  Race 
and  New  York  ;  would  give  usually  quiet  passages  across  the  liulf ;  would  diversify 
the  monotony  of  the  long  voyage  by  three  transfers,  and  would  save  4-0  days  on 
the  recorded  averages  of  the  steamships  between  New  York  and  Liverpool  (sec  maps 
and  details  in  Sandford  Fleming's  ''  Intercolonial  Railway  Survey  "). 

The  steamer  now  crosses  the  Miscou  Banks,  and  approaches  Miscou 
Island,  which  is  20  M.  in  circumference  and  contains  about  300  inhab- 
itants. On  its  S.  shore  is  a  fine  and  spacious  harbor,  which  is  much  used 
as  ii  place  of  refuge  in  stormy  weather  by  tlie  American  fisliing-fleets. 

Settlements  were  formed  here  early  in  the  17th  century  by  the  French,  for  the 
purpose  of  hunting  the  walrus,  or  sea-cow.  Such  an  exterminating  war  was  waged 
upon  this  valuable  aquatic  .animal  that  it  soon  became  extinct  in  the  Gulf,  and  was 
followed  into  the  Arctic  Zone.  Within  five  years  a  few  walruses  have  been  seen  in 
the  Gulf,  and  it  is  hoped  that  they  may  once  more  enter  these  waters  in  droves.  At 
an  early  date  the  Jesuits  established  the  mission  of  St.  Charles  dc  Miscou,  but  the 
priests  were  soon  killed  by  the  climate,  and  no  impression  had  been  made  on  the 
Indians.  It  is  claimed  that  there  may  still  he  seen  the  ruins  of  the  post  of  the  Royal 
Company  of  Mi.scou,  which  was  founded  in  IfiSS  for  the  pursuit  offish  and  walruses, 
and  for  a  time  derived  a  great  revenue  from  this  district.  Fortifications  were  also 
erected  here  by  M.  Denys,  Sieur  de  Fronsac. 

The  steamer  alters  her  course  gradually  to  the  W.  and  passes  the 
fixed  red  light  on  Birch  Point,  and  Point  Miscou,  with  its  high  green 
knoll.  Between  Point  Miscou  and  Cape  Despair,  25  M.  N.,  is  the  en- 
trance to  the  Bay  of  Chuleur. 


The  Bay  of  Chaleur  was  known  to  the  Indi'.ms  by  the  name  of  Eclcetuam 
Nemaache,  signifying  "a  Sea  of  Fish,"  and  that  name  is  still  applicable, 
since  the  bay  contains  every  variety  of  fish  known  on  these  coasts.  It  is 
90  M.  long  and  from  10  to  25  M.  wide,  and  is  nearlj'  free  from  shoals  or 
dangerous  reefs.  The  waters  arc  comparatively  tranquil,  and  the  air  is 
clear  and  bracing  aiid  usually  free  from  fog,  attbrding  a  marked  contrast 
to  the  climate  of  the  adjacent  Gulf  coasts.  The  tides  are  regular  and  have 
but  little  velocity.  The  length  of  the  bay,  from  Point  Miscou  to  Camp- 
bellton,  is  about  110  ^I.  These  waters  are  visited  every  year  by  great 
American  fleets,  manned  by  the  hardy  seamen  of  Cape  Cod  and  Gloucep- 
ter,  and  valuable  cargoes  of  fish  are  usually  carried  back  to  the  Massa- 
chusetts ports. 


BATHURST. 


Route,  15.       Q6 


Vetuam 
[cable, 
It  is 
)als  or 
air  is 
[ntrast 
have 
;amp- 
great 
mcep- 
[assu- 


This  bay  was  discovered  by  Jaques  Cartler  in  the  summer  of  1535,  and,  from  the 
fact  that  the  heated  seiisou  was  at  its  height  at  that  time,  lie  named  it  La  Bale  des 
Chnleurs  (.the  Bay  of  Heats),  On  tlie  earht'st  maps  it  is  also  called  La  Bate  de.i 
Es)iagno(s,  iudicatiug  that  it  was  frequented  by  Spanish  vessels,  probably  for  the 
purposes  of  fishing.  . 

In  these  waters  is  located  tlie  scene  of  the  old  legend  of  the  Massachixsetts  coast, 
relative  to  Skipper  Ireson's  misdeed,  which,  with  the  record  of  its  puuislimeut,  has 
been  commemorated  in  the  poetry  of  W'hittier :  — 


"  Small  pity  for  him  I  —  He  sailed  away 
From  11  leaking  8l\ip  in  Chuleur  May,  — 
Sailfd  awav  from  a  sinldn;^  wreck, 
VVitli  Ills  own  town's-people  on  her  deck  I 
'  Lay  by  !  lay  by  ! '  they  called  to  him  ; 
Hack  lie  answered, '  Sin'k  or  swim  ! 
Biag  of  your  catdi  of  tisii  again  1 ' 
And  off  lie  saded  through  tiic  fog  and  rain. 
Old  Floyd  Ircson,  for  Uia  hard  heart, 
Tarred  and  feathered  and  carried  in  a  cart 
By  the  women  of  Mui  blehead. 


en  1 

That  wreck  shall  lie  forevermore. 
Motlier  i.nd  sister,  wife  and  maid, 
Looked  from  the  rocks  of  >rarblelicad 
Over  the  moaning  and  rainy  sea,— 
I^ooked  for  the  coining  ihat  might  not  be  I 
What  did  the  winds  and  the  sea-birds  say 
Of  tlie  cruel  captain  who  sailed  away  ?  — 
Old  Floyd  Ircson,  for  his  hard  lieart, 
Ta'  red  and  feathered  and  carried  in  a,  cart 
By  the  women  of  Marblehead." 


Miscon  has  the  best  shooting  in  Canada  :  plover  in  Aug.  and  Sept.  ; 
geese,  ducks,  and  brant  in  Sept.,  Oct.,  and  Nov.  Tlie  Mai-Bay  marshes 
are  the  best  place.  Guides  and  canoes,  $la  day.  Fredericton  to  Chat- 
ham Junction,  107  M. ;  thence  on  Intercolonial  Kailway  to  Gloucester 
Junction,  45  M.;  then.cc  on  Caraquet  Ry.  (see  page  OG),  50  M.  to  Caraquet; 
whence  club-I)c)at  15  M.  to  Misoou.    Address  I).  Lee  Babliitt,  Fredericton. 

Bathurst  {Ktanj  House),  the  capital  of  Gloucester  County,  has  1,200 
inhabitants,  and  stands  on  a  peninsula  2^  M.  from  the  ba}'.  Large  quan- 
tities of  fish  are  sent  hence  to  the  American  cities;  and  the  exportation  of 
frozen  salmon  has  become  an  important  business.  The  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way has  a  station  near  Bathurst.  The  beautiful  Basin  of  Bathurst  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  four  rivers,  and  its  shores  are  already  well  populated 
by  farmers.  Pleasant  drives  and  sailing  routes  amid  lovelv  scenery  abound 
hereabouts,  and  give  Bathurst  a  summer-resort  air.  It  is  .3  M.  to  the  fine 
beach  of  Alston  Point,  near  which  there  are  farm  boarding-houses. 

The  Basin  of  Bathurst  was  called  by  the  Indiana  Winkapis;uwick,  p  '  Nepisis;uit^ 
siguifj  ing  the  "  i'oaming  Waters."  It  was  occupied  in  1638  by  M.  Enaud,  .i  wealthy 
Basque  gentleman,  and  his  retainers,  forming  a  town  called  St  Pierre.  P^iiaud  mar- 
ried a  Moiuuvk  princes!»,  founded  mills,  and  established  an  excensive  fur-trade,  erect- 
ing a  commodious  mansion  at  Abshaboo  (Coal  Point),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nepi-iguit. 
But  some  fimily  troubles  ensued,  and  Madame  Enaud's  brother  slew  her  husband, 
after  which  the  French  settlements  were  plundered  by  the  Indians,  and  such  of  the 
inhabitants  as  could  not  escape  by  way  of  the  sea  were  massacred. 

By  1G70  the  Chaleur  shores  were  again  studded  with  French  hamlets,  and  occu- 
pied by  an  industrious  farming  population.  In  1692  the  Micmaes  confederated 
against  them,  and,  under  the  command  of  the  sagamore  Ilalion,  completely  devfus- 
tated  the  whole  district  and  compelled  the  settlers  to  tly  to  Canada.  Thenceforward 
for  74  years  this  country  was  unvisited  by  Europeans.  In  1764  a  Scotch  trading- 
post  and  fort  was  erected  at  Alston  Point,  on  the  N  shore  of  Bathurst  harbor,  and 
thence  w^re  exported  great  quantities  of  furs,  moose-skins,  walrus  hides  and  tusks, 
and  salmon.  In  1776  this  flourishing  settlement  was  destroyed  by  American  priva- 
teers, which  also  devastated  the  other  shores  of  Chaleur.  The  present  town  was 
founded  in  1818  by  Sir  Howard  Douglas,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  the  Earl  of 
Bathurst. 

The  Nepisignit  River  empties  into  Bathurst  harbor,  and  is  famous  for 
its  fine  fishing.    The  riparian  owners  have  soid  their  fishing  rights  to  Bos- 

v. 


66     RiM-.  Id. 


CARAQUETTE. 


if* 


ton  people,  and  to  the  Nepisicfuit  Angling  Club  of  St.  John,  N.  B.,  from 
whom  a  ti'shing  permit  may  be  bought.  A  road  ascends  for  35  M., 
passing  the  Kough  Watei-s,  the  bi  illiant  rapids  of  the  Pabineau  I-'alls  (9  M. 
up),  tlie  dark  pools  of  the  lit'taljoe  reach,  the  Chain  of  Rocks,  and  the 
Narrows.  The  *  Grand  Falls  of  the  Nepisiguit  are  20  M.  above  Bathurst, 
and  consist  of  4  distinct  and  step-hke  cliffs,  with  a  total  height  of  140  ft. 
They  are  at  the  head  of  the  Narrows,  where  the  river  flows  for  3-4  M. 
through  a  canon  between  high  cliffs  of  slaty  rock.  The  river  boldly  takes 
the  leap  over  this  Titanic  stairway,  and  the  ensuing  roar  is  deafening, 
while  the  base  of  the  cliff  is  shrouded  in  white  spray.  From  the  profound 
depths  at  the  foot  the  river  whirls  away  in  a  black  and  foam-flecked 
course  f«)r  2  M. 

"Good  by,  lovely  Nepisiguit,  stream  of  the  beautiful  pools,  the  fisherman's 
elyMuni;  farewell  to  thy  u.erry,  noisy  current,  thy  long  quiet  stretches,  thy  high 
bluffs,  thy  wooded  and  thy  rocky  shores.  Long  may  thy  music  lull  the  innocent 
angler  into  day-dreams  of  happiness.  Long  may  thy  romantic  scenery  charm  the 
CO  and  gladden  the  heart  of  the  artist,  and  weleouie  the  angler  to  a  liappy  sylvan 
homo."    (RoosKvELT.) 

The  *  a  rand  Falls  of  the  Tete-i^-gouche  River  are  about  8  M.  W.  of  Bathurst,  and 
may  be  vi.-ited  b^  carriage.  The  river  here  falls  about  30  ft.,  amid  a  wild  confusion 
of  rocks  and  cliffs. 

The  Caraqn^it  Railway  runs  iS.K.  from  (Jloucester  Junction  to  Hathurst, 
5M.;  Salmon  Hea<h,!)M.;  lancville,  18;  Canobie,  20;  Clifton, '21 ;  Stone- 
haven, 2;];  New  Bandou,  25;  Pockshaw.  28;  (irand  Anse,  31;  Upper 
Cara(|uet,  40;  ('ara(|uet,  50;  Lower  Cara(iuet,  53;  I^okemouche.  02;  Ship- 
pegan  {T(iyUir''s  /li>lel).10.  (See  also  page  04.)  This  road  follows  the 
sliorcs  of  the  Neinsiguit  Bay  and  gives  frecpient  l)eautiful  marine  views  over 
the  Bay  of  Clialeur  for  nearly  30  M.  The  hamlets  of  Clifton  (small  '  ^ 
and  New  Bandon  were  settled  by  Irish  immigrants,  and  arc  now  en<T' 
in  making  grindstones.  Pockshaw  has  an  inn  and  about  600  inhabitants. 
Grand  Anse  is  an  Acadian  settlement,  and  has  700  inhabitants,  who  are 
engaged  in  farming  and  fishing.  Thence  the  road  runs  8  M.  S.  E.  to  Upper 
Caraquette,  where  there  are  about  600  Acadians.  Lower  Caraquette  (two 
inns)  is  a  French  village  of  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  famous  for  its  strong, 
swift  boats  and  skilful  mariners. 

Caraquette  was  founded  in  1768  by  a  colony  of  Bretons,  and  owed  a  part  of  its 
early  growth  to  intermarriages  with  the  Micmacs.  It  is  a  long  street  of  farms  in  the 
old  Acadian  style,  and  is  situated  in  a  fruitful  and  well-cultivated  country.  The 
view  from  the  hills  over  the  village,  and  especially  from  the  still  venerated  spot 
where  the  old  chapel  stood,  is  very  pleasant,  and  includes  Miscou  and  Shippigan, 
the  Oaspe  ports,  and  the  bold  Quebec  shores.  The  .lersey  house  of  Robin  &  Co. 
has  one  of  its  fishing-<»8tablishments  here,  and  does  a  large  business. 

Caraquette  is  one  of  the  chief  stations  of  the  N.  shore  fisheries.  In  the  year  1873 
the  fish  product  of  the  three  lower  Maritime  Provinces  amounted  to  the  value  of 
$9,01)0,342.  Nova  8cotia  caught  $0,577,080  worth  of  fish:  and  New  Brunswick 
caught  I?  2,285,000  worth,  of  wliich  .'!!(  527,312  were  of  salmon,  S  500,300  of  herring, 
$340,925  of  lobsters,  $338,699  of  codfish,  *  1(18,514  of  alewives,  $90,066  of  iiake, 
$  04,39()  of  pollock,  3  45,480  of  oysters,  .$  41.851  of  smelt,  and  $  35,477  of  mackereb 

The  line  of  the  highway,  and  the  noble  viewing  railway  track  (with  several  sta- 
tions) follow  the  coa.st  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  to  the  N.  u'.  to  Medisco  :  Rochette,  12  M. ; 
Belledune,  20;  Belledune  River,  24;  Armstrong's  Brook,  28;  River  Louison.  33; 
New  Mills,  38 ;  River  Charlo,  44  ;  and  Dalhousie,  52.  Medisco  and  Rochette  are 
French  villages  :  the  others  are  of  British  origin,  and  none  of  '■'aem  have  as  many 


DALHOUSIE. 


Route  15.       67 


Upper 
Ship- 


's over 


of  its 
iu  the 
The 

3(1    spot 

ipigan, 
&  Co. 

1873 

lue  of 

nswick 

ttrring, 

hake, 
jerel. 
\[  sta- 
12  M. ; 
n.  38; 
Ve  are 

many 


as  500  inhabitants.  Many  small  streams  enter  the  bay  from  this  coast,  and  the 
whole  district  xa  famous  for  its  fishing  and  hunting  (water-fowl).  The  line  of  this 
shore  is  followed  by  the  Intercolonial  Railway. 

Off  Biitliurst  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  is  over  25  M.  wide,  and  the  steainer 
passes  out  and  takes  a  course  to  the  N.  W.,  passing  the  hamlet  of  Rochette, 
and  soon  rounding  Belledune  Point.  The  imposing  highlands  of  the  Gas- 
pesian  peninsula  are  seen  on  the  N.  with  the  peak  of  Tracadiegash.  The 
passage  between  Tracadiegash  Point  and  Heron  Island  is  about  7  M.  wide ; 
and  6-8  M.  beyond  the  steamer  passes  Maguacha  Point  [Maguacha^  In- 
dian for  "Always  Red")  on  the  r.,  and  enters  the  Restigouche  Harbor. 

"  To  the  person  approaching  by  steamer  from  the  sea,  is  presented  one  of  the 
most  superb  and  fascinating  panoramic  views  in  Canada.  The  whole  region  is 
mountainous,  and  almost  precipitous  enough  to  be  alpine ;  but  its  grandeur  ia 
derived  less  from  cliffs,  chasms,  and  peaks,  than  from  far-reaching  sweeps  of  out- 
line, and  continually  rising  domes  that  mingle  witii  the  clouds.  On  the  Qasp^ 
side  precipitous  cliffs  of  brick-red  sandstone  flank  the  shore,  so  lofty  that  they 
seem  to  cfst  their  gloomy  shadows  half-way  across  the  Bay.  and  yawning  with 
rifts  and  gullies,  through  which  fretful  torrents  tumble  into  the  sea.  Behind 
them  the  mountains  rise  and  fall  in  long  undulations  of  ultramarine,  and,  tow- 
ering above  them  all,  is  the  famous  peak  of  Tracadiegash  flashing  iu  the  sunlight 
like  a  pale  blue  amethyst."    (Hallock.) 

Dalhousie  (Murphy's  Hotel)^  a  village  of  six  hundred  inhabitants,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  long  estuary  of  the  Restigouche,  is  the  capital  of  Restigouche 
County  (see  page  60).  It  faces  on  the  harbor  from  three  sides,  and  ha» 
great  facilities  for  commerce  and  for  handling  lumber.  The  manufacture 
and  exportation  of  lumber  are  here  carried  on  on  a  large  scale;  and  the 
town  is  also  famous  for  its  shipments  of  lobsters  and  salmon.  The  .salmon 
fisheries  in  this  vicinity  are  of  gfeat  value  and  productiveness.  Tlie  Inter- 
colonial Railway  has  a  short  hrancli  to  Dalhousie  station.  The  site  of 
this  port  was  called  Sickadomec  by  the  Indians.  50  years  ago  there  were 
but  two  leg-houses  here,  but  the  district  was  soon  occupied  by  hardy 
Iliglilanders  from  Arran,  whose  new  port  and  metropolis  was  "located  in 
an  alpine  wilderness."  Directly  back  of  the  village  is  Mt.  Dalhotme, 
and  the  harbor  is  protected  by  the  high  shores  of  Dalhousie  Island. 

The  Inch  Arran  House  ($10-15  a  week)  is  a  fashionable  summer-hotel,  1  M. 
from  L»aiiiou&ii',  up,.Ui.a  lU  looj,  on  ihe  Lteucu,  with  boauiOg,  bathmg,  oo^vlmg,  tennis, 
Liliiaiao,  tic.   open  0  unu  la  to  oupt,  id.    Orana  scenery,  and  trout  ana  saluioii  lishmt;. 

"  The  Bay  of  Chaleur  preserves  a  river-like  character  for  some  distance  from  the 
point  where  the  river  may  strictly  be  said  to  terminate,  and  certainly  offers  the 

nioit  beautiful  scenery  to  be  seen  in  the  Province From  Mr.  Eraser's  to  the 

sea,  a  distance  of  some  20  M  by  water,  or  14  by  land,  the  course  of  the  river  is 
really  beautiful.  Swollen  to  dimensions  of  majestic  breadth,  it  flows  calmly  on, 
among  picturesque  and  lofty  hills,  undisturbed  by  rapids,  and  studded  with  in- 
numerable islands  covered  with  the  richest  growth  of  elm  and  maple The 

whole  of  the  distance  from  CampbelUon  to  Dalliousie,  a  drive  of  17  M.  along  the  coast 
of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  on  an  excellent  high-road,  presents  a  succession  of  beautiful 
vie. vs  across  the  narrow  bay,  in  which  Tracadiegash,  one  of  the  highest  of  theOaspfi 
mountains,  always  forms  a  conspicuous  olycct,  jutting  forward  aa  it  does  into  the 
sea   Im'Iow    D.m  hou-ie '"      (lIoN.  Artul-r  Gordon  ) 

"  Nothing  can  exceed  the  gnnideur  and  beauty  of  the  approach  to  the  estuary  of 
the  Uostigouclie.  The  pointed  hills  in  the  background,  the  deep  green  forest  with 
its  patches  of  cultivation,  and  the  clear  blue  of  the  distant  mountains,  form  a  pic- 
ture of  the  most  exquisite  kind."    (S;r  K.  Bonnycastle. ) 


.1 


68       jR&ute  25. 


CAMPBELLTON. 


I  \  rl 


■J  ;^'"i 


"The  expanse  of  three  miles  across  the  mouth  of  the  Restigouche,  the  dreamy 
alpine  land  be>ond,  and  the  broad  plain  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  present  one  '^f  the 
most  splendid  and  fascinating  panoramic  proHpectfi  to  be  found  on  the  continent  of 
America,  and  has  alone  rewarded  us  for  the  pilgrimage  we  have  made."    (Charles 

LtANMAN.) 

The  estuary  of  the  Restigonche  is  2-4  M.  wide,  and  extends  from  Dal- 
housie  to  Campbellton,  about  16  M.  Point  a  la  Garde  is  9  M.  above  Dal- 
housie  on  the  N.  shore,  and  isabold  perpendicuhir  promontory  overlooking 
the  harbor.  On  this  and  Battery  Point  (tlie  next  to  the  W.)  were  the 
extensive  French  fortifications  which  were  destroyed  by  Admiral  Byron's 
British  squadron  in  1780.  Several  pieces  of  artillery  and  other  relics  have 
been  obtained  from  the  water  off  these  points.  Battery  Point  is  a  rocky 
promontory  80  ft.  high,  with  a  plain  on  the  top,  and  a  deep  channel  around 
its  shores.  Point  Pleasant  is  4  M.  distant,  and  1  M.  back  is  a  spiral  mass 
of  granite  700  ft.  high,  which  is  accessible  by  natural  steps  on  the  E.  1^ 
M.  from  this  peak  is  a  pretty  forest-lake,  in  which  red  trout  are  abundant. 
5  M.  N.  of  Point  a  la  Garde  is  the  main  peak  of  the  Scaumenac  Mts.,  which 
attains  an  altitude  of  1,745  ft.  • 

Campbellton  {Northern  House)  is  in  a  diversified  region  of  hills  at 
the  head  of  d^ep- water  navigatiou  on  the  Kestigouche,  which  is  here  1  M. 
wide. 

One  of  the  chief  stations  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  is  lo- 
cated here.  The  adjacent  country  is  highly  picturesque,  and  is  studded 
with  conical  hills,  the  chief  of  which  is  Sugar  Loaf,  900  ft.  high. 

Mission  Point  is  nearly  opposite  Campbellton,  and  is  surrounded  by  fine 
hill-scenery,  which  has  been  likened  to  that  of  Wales.  The  river  is  rapid 
oft'  these  shores,  and  abounds  in  salmon.  This  place  is  also  known  as 
Point-a-la-Croix,  and  is  one  of  the  chief  villages  and  reservations  of  the 
Micmac  Indians.     It  has  about  600  inhabitants,  with  a  Catholic  church. 

The  Micmac  language  is  said  to  be  a  dialect  of  the  Huron  tongue  ;  while  the  Mili- 
cetes,  on  the  St.  John  River,  speak  a  dialect  of  Delaware  origin.  These  two  tribes 
have  an  annual  council  at  Mission  Point,  at  which  delegates  from  the  Penobscot 
Indians  are  in  attendance.  The  Micmac  nation  occupies  the  waste  places  of  the 
Maritime  Provinces,  from  Newfoundland  to  Gaspt^,  and  numbers  over  6,(100  souls. 
These  Indians  are  daring  and  tireless  hunters  and  fishermen,  and  lead  a  life  of  con- 
stant roving,  gathering  annually  at  the  local  capitals,  —  Chapel  Island,  in  Cape 
Breton;  Ponhook  Lake, in  Nova  Scotia;  and  Mission  Point,  in  Quebec.  They  are 
increasing  steadily  in  numbers,  and  are  becoming  more  valuable  members  of  the 
Canadian  nation.  They  have  hardly  yet  recovered  from  the  terrible  defeat  which 
was  inflicted  on  them  by  an  invading  army  of  Mohawks,  in  1639.  The  flower  of  the 
Maritime  tribes  hastened  to  the  border  to  repel  the  enemy,  but  they  were  niet  by 
the  Mohawks  in  the  Kestigouche  country,  and  were  annihilated  on  the  field  of 
battle. 

The  chief  of  the  Micmacs  at  Mission  Point  visited  Queen  Victoria  in  1850,  and  was 
kindly  welcomed  and  received  many  ptesents.  When  Lord  Aylmer,  Governor-Gen- 
eral of  Canada,  visited  Gasp6,  he  was  waited  on  by  500  Indians,  whose  chief  made 
liim  a  long  harangue.  But  the  tribe  had  recently  recovered  from  a  wreck  (among 
other  things)  a  box  of  docanter-lnbels,  marked  Hum,  Brandy,  Gin,  etc.,  and  the  noble 
chief,  not  knowing  their  purport,  had  adorned  his  ears  and  nose  with  them ,  and 
surrounded  his  head  with  a  crown  of  the  same  materials.  When  the  Briti.'?h  officers 
Tcccgnized  the  familiar  names,  they  burst  into  such  a  peal  of  laughter  as  drove  the 
astonished  and  incensed  chief  from  tt^eir  presence  forever. 


RE3TIG0UCHE  RIVER. 


Route  15.       0)9 


U'ch. 


re  the 


3  M.  above  Mission  Point  is  Point  au  Bourdo,  the  ancient  site  of  La 
Petife  Ilochelle,  deriving  its  present  name  from  Capt.  Bourdo,  of  the  French, 
frigate  Marchault,  wlio  was  killed  in  the  battle  oft'  this  point  and  was 
buried  here.     Fragments  of  the  French  vessels,  old  artillery,  camp  equip' 
ments,  and  shells  have  been  found  in  great  numbers  in  this  vicinity. 

In  1760  Restigouche  was  defended  by  2  batteries,  garrisoned  by  250  French  regu- 
lars, 700  Acadians,  and  700  Indians;  and  in  the  harbor  lay  tlie  French  war-vesscla 
Marchautt,  32,  Uiett/aimnt,  22,  and  Marquis  Mar/oye,  18,  with  19  prize-ships  wliich 
had  been  ciiptured  from  the  English.  The  place  was  attacked  by  a  powerful  Lritish 
fleet,  consisting  of  the  Fame,  74,  Dorsetshire,  Se arbor ouiili,  AcliUles,  and  Repulse,  all 
under  the  command  of  Commodore  John  Byron  (i^randfather  of  tlio  poet,  Lord  By- 
ron). But  little  resistance  was  attempted;  and  the  French  fleet  and  batteries  sur- 
rendered to  their  formidible  antagonist.  The  captured  ships  were  carried  to  Louia- 
bourg,  and  the  batteries  and  the  200  houses  of  Restigouche  were  destroyed. 

The  Restigouohe  River  is  a  stately  stream  which  is  navigable  for  136 
M.  above  Campbellton.  It  runs  through  level  lands  for  several  miles  above 
its  mouth,  and  then  is  enclosed  between  bold  and  rugged  shores.  There 
are  hundreds  of  low  and  level  islands  of  a  rich  and  yearly  replenished  soil; 
and  above  the  Tomkedgwick  are  wide  belts  of  intervale.  30  M.  from  it3 
mouth  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  Metapedia  River,  flowing  down  from 
the  Metis  Mts. ;  and  35  M.  from  the  mouth  is  the  confluence  of  the  trout- 
abounding  Upsalquitch.  21  M.  farther  up  is  the  mouth  of  the  Patapedia; 
and  20  M.  beyond  this  point  the  Tomkedgv.ick  comes  in  from  the  N,  W. 
Tills  system  of  Avaters  drains  over  6,000  square  miles  of  territory,  and  is 
connected  by  portages  with  the  streams  which  lead  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy 
and  the  River  St.  Lawrence. 

Campbellton  to  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

The  Metapedia  Road  leaves  the  N.  shore  of  the  Restigouche  a  few  miles 
above  Campbellton,  and  strikes  through  the  forest  to  the  N.  W.  fo'-  the  St. 
Lawrence  River.  This  is  the  route  of  the  new  Intercolonial  Railway, 
which  passes  up  through  the  wilderness  to  St.  Flavie.  The  distance  from 
Campbellton  to  St.  Flavie  is  106  M.,  and  the  railway-fare  isS3.  This 
road  leads  across  the  barren  highlands  of  Gaspe,  and  through  one  of  the 
most  thinly  settled  portions  of  Canada. 

The  French  hamlet  of  St.  Alexis  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Metapedia 
River.  Metapedia  is  15  M.  above  Campbellton,  and  is  situated  amid  the 
pretty  scenery  at  the  confluence  of  the  Metapedia  and  Restigouche  Rivers. 
The  salmon-fisheries  in  this  vicinity  attract  enthusiastic  sportsmen  everj' 
year.  Near  the  confluence  is  the  old  Fraser  mansion,  famous  among  the 
travellers  of  earlier  days,  and  now  pertaining  to  the  Restigouche  Salmon 
Club.  The  Intercolonial  Railway  crosses  the  Restigouche  in  this  vicinity, 
and  has  a  station  at  Metapedia.    60  M.  beyond  is  Metapedia  Lake. 

The  Metapedia  Lake  is  12  M.  long  by  2  M.  wide,  and  is  surrounded  by 
low  shores  of  limestone,  above  and  beyond  which  are  distant  ranges  of 
highlands.    Its  waters  abound  in  tuladi  (gray  trout),  trout,  and  white-fish, 


Vl  « 


u 


70       Route  JG.  ST.   JOHN   TO   HALIFAX. 

and  nfford  good  sporting.     The  Iftke  contains  a  large  island,  which  is  a 
favorite  breeditig-pliice  of  loons. 

St.  Fldi'ie  (two  inns)  is  a  village  of  450  French  people,  situated  on  the 
S.  shore  of  the  Kiver  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  the  point  where  the  Intercolonial 
Railway  reaches  the  river  and  turns  to  the  S.  W.  towards  Quebec.  It  is 
distant  from  ranipbollton,  lOfi  M.;  from  Father  Point,  15  M.;  from  Kivi^re 
du  Loup,  83  M.;  and  from  Quebec,  210  M. 

16.    St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax. 

The  Intercolonial  Railway. 

This  route  traverpea  the  S.  E.  counties  of  New  Brunswick,  passes  the  isthmus  at 
the  head  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  and  after  crossing  the  C'obequiil  Mts.  and  rounding 
tlie  head  of  Cobequid  Bay.  runs  S.  VV.  to  tiie  city  of  Halifax.  It  traverses  some  in- 
teresting districts  and  has  a  few  glimpses  of  attractive  scenery,  but  the  views  are 
generally  monotonous  and  without  any  striking  beauties.  During  calm  and  pleasant 
veather  the  travtiller  will  find  the  Annapolis  route  (see  Route  18)  much  the  pleas- 
anter  way  to  go  from  St.  ,7ohn  to  Halifax. 

There  is  no  change  of  cars  between  St.  John  and  Halifax,  and  baggage  is  checked 
through  During  the  summer  there  is  a  day  express-train,  leaving  St.  John  at  7 
A.  iM.,  and  due  at  Halifax  at  7.40  p.  m.  ;  and  a  night  express,  leaving  St.  John  at  8.30 
P.  M.,  and  due  at  Halifax  at  9  a.  m.    Pullman-cars  have  been  introduced  on 

this  line. 

Stations.  —  St.  John  ;  Moo.eepath,  3  M. ;  Brookville,  5;  Torryburn,  6  ;  River- 
side, 7  ;  Rothesay,  9  ;  Quispamsis,  12  ;  Nauwigewauk,17  ;  Hampton.  22;  Pas.'ekeag, 
26;  Bloomficld,  27;  Norton,  33;  Apohaqui,  39;  Su.ssex,  44;  Plumwe.secp,  47; 
Penobsqui.s,  51;  Anagance,  60 ;  Petitcodiac,  06;  Pollet  River,  71;  Sali-bury,  76; 
Boundary  Creek,  79  ;  Monctou,  89  ;  Humphrey.  91  ;  Painsec  .function,  97  (Dorches- 
ter Road,  102  ;  Shediac,  106;  Point  du  Chenc,  108)  ;  Meadow  Brook,  101 ;  Memram- 
cook,  108;  Dorchester,  116:  Sackvillo,  127;  Aulac,  131;  Amherst,  138  ;  Nappan, 
144;  Maccan,147;  Athol,  151  ;  Spring  Hill,  156  ;  Salt  Springs,  164;  River  Phiiip, 
167;  Thompson,  174  ;  Greenville.  181  ;  Wentworth,  187 ;  Folh  Lake,  191 ;  London- 
derry, 199;  Debert,  204;  Jshgonish,  208;  Truro,  216;  Johnson,  220;  Brookfield, 
224;  Polly  Bog,  229 ;  Stewiackc,  233 ;  Shubonacadie,  238;  Milford,  242;  EluL-idale, 
247;  Enfield,  249;  Grand  Lrike,  254 ;  Wellington,  256  ;  AVindsor  Junction,  264  ; 
Rocky  L.ake,  266 ;  Bedford,  269  ;  Four-Mile  House,  273  ;  Halifax,  276. 

Fares  from  St.  John.  —  To  Sussex,  1st  class,  S  1.32,  — 2d  class, 88c.  ;  to  Moncton, 
1st  class,  ^267,  — 2d  class,  $1.78;  to  Shediac,  1st  class,  S3,  — 2d  class,  $2;  to 
Amherst,  l^t  class,  !iR3  78,  —  2d  class,  «2.52  ;  to  Truro,  1st  class,  $5.02,  —2d  class, 
S  3  35 ;  to  Halifax,  1st  class,  $  6,  —  2d  class,  $ 4. 

FnreH  from  Halifax.  -To  Truro,  1st  r-hss,  $1  86,  —  2d  class,  $  1.24  ;  to  Pictou, 
1st  class,"i$3  18.  —  2d  class.  S2.12;  to  Amherst,  1st  class,  !»3.78,  —  2dclas.s.  S2  52; 
to  Shediac,  1st  class,  »4.5fi,  —  2d  class,  $3.04;  to  Sussex,  1st  class,  $6  31,  — 2d 
class,  $  3  54  ;  to  St.  John,  1st  class,  $  6,  —2d  class,  $  4. 

Way-passengers  can  estimate  their  expenses  easily  on  the  basis  of  3c.  per  mile  for 
Ist  class,  and  2c.  per  mile  for  2d  class  tickets,  which  is  the  tarilT  fixed  by  the 
Canadian  Government  for  all  distances  of  less  than  100  M.  on  its  national  rail- 
ways. 

On  leaving  the  Valley  station,  in  the  city  of  St.  John  (see  page  19),  the 
train  passes  out  into  the  Marsh  Valley,  which  is  ascended  for  several  miles 
(see  page  22).  A  short  distance  beyond  Moosepath  Park  the  line  crosses 
Larvlor's  Lal-e  on  an  embankment  which  cost  heavily,  on  account  of  the 
great  depth  to  which  the  ballasting  sunk.  The  Kennebecasis  Bay  is  soon 
seen,  on  the  L,  and  is  skirted  for  5  M.,  passing  the  villas  of  Rothesay  (see 
page  22),  and  giving  pleasant  views  over  the  broad  waters.     Quispam- 


SUSSEX  VALE. 


Ruiite  IG. 


71 


Inch  is  a 

id  on  tho 
crcolonliil 
ec.  It  is 
n  Riviere 


isthmus  at 
il  rounding 
■a  Konio  in- 
3  views  nre 
nd  pleasant 
tlie  pleas- 
is  checked 
John  at  7 
ohn  at  8.30 
roduced  on 

,  6  ;   River- 
Pa  s.'ekeng, 
.vcsei'p,  47 ; 
i-bury,  76; 
(Dorches- 
Mcuiram- 
; ;  Nap  pan, 
vtT  Philip, 
;  Loiidon- 
Hrookfield, 
Kluisda'e, 
tion ,  264 ; 

Moncton, 
?s,$2;   to 
-2d  class, 

to  Pictou, 
isa.  S  2  52 ; 
[6  31,  — 2d 

sr  mile  for 
[ed  b)  the 
lioual  rail- 

19),  the 
Iral  miles 
crosses 
It  of  the 
ly  is  soon 
psay  (see 
buispam- 


sis  station  is  3  M.  S.  of  Gondola  Point,  wlicnce  a  ferry  crosses  the  Ken- 
nebccasis  to  the  pretty  hamlet  of  Clifton.  The  narrowing  valley  is  now 
followed  to  the  N.  E.,  with  occasional  plimpses  of  the  river  on  the  1. 
Hampton  (two  hotels)  is  the  shire-town  of  Kinj^s  Connty,  whose  new  pub- 
lic buildini^s  are  seen  to  the  r.  of  the  track.  It  is  a  thrlvinj;  villa<];e  of  re- 
cent oripjiii,  and  is  visited  in  simnner  by  the  people  of  St.  John,  on  account 
of  the  hill-scenery  in  the  vicinity. 

St.  M  irtin'a,  or  Quaeo,  is  about  30  M.  S.  E  ,  on  tho  Hay  of  Fundy,  and  is  nov 
connected   with  Hampton  by  railway.     (It   is  also  visited   by  daily  ntage 

from  St.  John  in  32  M.,  faro  $  1  50  ;  a  rugged  road.)  This  is  one  of  the  chief  ship- 
building towns  in  the  province,  and  has  over  1,000  inhabitants,  with  several  churches 
and  other  public  buildings.  It  wa*!  originally  settled  by  the  King's  Orange  Rangers, 
and  has  recently  become  a  favorite  point  for  sununer  excursions  from  St.  .John. 
The  hotel  accommodation  is  inferior.  S.  of  the  village  is  th.!  tall  lighthou.^e  on 
Quaco  Head,  sustaining  a  revolving  white  light  The  name  Quaro  is  a  contractiou 
of  the  Indian  words  Gulioa/ign/itai'e,  meaning  "  the  Home  of  the  Sea-cow." 

The  shores  about  Quaco  are  bold  and  picturesque,  fronting  the  Bay  with  lofty 
iron-bound  clitfs,  among  which  are  small  strips  of  stony  beaches.  The  strata  are 
higlily  inclined  and  in  some  cases  are  strangely  contorted,  while  their  shelves  and 
crevices  are  adorned  with  pine-trees.  Quaco  J^lrarl  is  2  >I.  from  St.  Martin's,  and 
is  350  ft.  high,  surrounded  by  clilfs  of  red  .saniNcone  250  ft  in  height.  This  bold 
promontory  rises  directly  from  the  sea,  and  is  crowned  by  forests.  The  harbor  of 
Quaco  is  rather  pretty,  whence  it  has  been  likened  to  the  Bay  of  Naples.  Tracy's 
Lake  is  abcut  6  M.  from  Quaco,  on  the  Loch  Lomond  road,  and  is  noted  for  an 
abundance  of  trout.  10-12  M  N.  of  the  village  is  the  Mount  Theobald  Lake,  a 
small  round  forest-pool  in  which  trout  are  found  in  great  numbers. 

Hampton  station  is  1  M.  from  the  village  of  Hampton  Ferry,  and  beyond 
Bloomtield  the  train  reaches  Norton,  whence  a  railway  runs  to  Grand  l.,ake. 
Apohfiqui  (Apohaqui  Hotel)  is  a  village  of  300  inhal)itants,  on  the  upper 
Koimeliecasis,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mill-stream  Valle)'. 

The  train  now  reaches  Sussex  {Intercolonial  Hotel),  a  pleasant  village 
of  400  inhabitants,  whence  the  famous  farm-lands  of  the  Susse^  Vale 
stretch  off  to  the  S.  p].  along  the  course  of  'Irout  Brook.  There  are  .sev- 
eral hamlets  (with  inns)  amid  the  pleasant  rural  scenery  of  the  Vale,  and 
good  trout-fishing  is  found  on  the  smaller  streams.  8  M.  up  is  the  pros- 
perous settlement  of  Seeley's  Mills,  with  650  inhabitants. 

The  Sussex  Vale  was  settled  by  the  military  corps  of  the  New  Jersey  Loyalists 
(most  of  whom  were  Germans),  soon  after  the  Revolutionary  U'ar,  and  it  is  now 
occupied,  for  the  most  part,  by  their  descendants.  "Good  roads,  well-tsxecutcd 
bridges,  cleared  land,  excellent  crops,  comfortable  houses,  high-bred  cattle  and 
hor.ses,  good  conveyances  public  and  private,  commodious  churches,  well-taught 
school.s,  well-provided  inns,  and  an  intelligent,  industrious  people,  all  i:i  the  mid-  6 
of  scenery  lofty,  soft,  rounded,  beautifully  varied  with  hill  and  valley,  mountain 
and  meadow,  forest  and  flood,  have  taken  the  place  of  the  pathless  wilderness,  the 
endless  trees,  the  untaught  Indian,  and  the  savage  moose."    (Prof.  Johnston.) 

Beyond  Plumwcseep  occasi(mal  glimpses  of  the  long  low  ridge  of  Picca- 
dilly Mt.  are  obtained  on  the  r.,  and  Mt.  Pisgah  is  just  N.  of  Penobsqw's 
station  (small  inn),  which  is  the  seat  of  the  New  Brunswick  Paper  Manu- 
facturing Co.  and  of  several  salt-works.  Tri-weekly  stages  run  hence  32 
M.  S.  E.  to  the  maritime  village  of  Alma,  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  5  M. 
N.  W.  of  the  shipping-port  of  Point  Wolf  (Stevens's  Hotel). 


72       fioHte  W. 


MONCTON. 


;'-«. 


1    ^>'^ 


. 


k 


Fetitoodiao  ( Mnnmrd  Ilmise ;  Central  Hotel)  is  in  M.  boynnd  Ppnob- 
Bcjuis,  luid  is  ji  busy  villiigc  (tf  4(Mi  jiiliahitnuts,  tu.'iiiy  of  whom  »ro  con- 
nocted  witii  tbo  lunibiir-trade.  5  M.  8.  K.  is  tlic  I'ollctt  Kivor  village,  ni'tir 
■which  tlicre  is  good  troutiiig.  In  this  vicinity  am  the  PolUtt  Falls,  wlicro 
tho  rivor,  after  flowing  through  a  narrow  dcfde  between  lofty  and  rugged 
liills,  falls  over  a  line  of  sandstone  ledges,  and  then  whirls  away  down  a 
dark  gorge  below.  The  caverns,  crags,  anil  eroded  IVonla  of  tho  sand- 
stone clitfs  form  |)ictnres(]iie  bits  of  scenery. 

16-18  M.  N.  of  I'elitcodiac  lire  tho  famous  flshing-grounds  of  the 
Canaan  River.  Tho  railway  now  descends  the  vnlley  of  the  I'etitcodiuc 
Kiver,  whi(di  was  settled  after  tho  Uevolutionary  War  by  (jermans  from 
I'emisylvania  who  remained  loyal  to  (ireat  Britain.  Salisbury  (two  inns) 
is  a  pleasant  village  of  300  inhabitants. 

IxMivinp  Salisbury,  tlie  Allx'rt  Rullway  runs  45  M  S.  E.  through  the  vil- 
Innus  of  llillshoro,  Albort  Mines,  and  luviTfidc.  to  Alb<>i-t,  tiie  terniinilH  of  the 
liiit^.  imisboro,  a  busy  viliajic  of  TOO  iiiliiibitiints,  lia^  2  hotels,  and  is  a  port  from 
whicii  schooners  ami  ships  transport  tlie  plaster  nianufartiircd  here  in  iarj^c  quan- 
tities. AUitrt  Mines,  omc  tlie  most  valuable  coal-mines  iinowu.  have  lately  «'lose(|, 
the  supply  beiuj;  exhraisteil.  The  villajie  of  /I'irti  si^/c  may  be  said  to  be  u  part  of 
the  villaj;e  l)f  Alliert,  the  i.itter  beinn  the  larjzer.  Albert  is  the  l)U>iest  and  most 
pietuie.sijue  part  of  the  eoanty.  Jt  has  8  hotels,  a  weekly  paper  (VV/c  Maple  IjccJ'), 
15  general  stores,  carriajre  i>.nd  furniture  manufaetoiios,  elc  At  this  point  all  the 
priueipal  highways  centre,  and  it  receives  the  yreater  part  of  the  county's  tiade. 
From  the  Albert  terminus,  a  r.iilway  ruus  S.  3-4  M  to  J/tirrci/  I'ornrr  and  Har- 
Vty  Jktnii,  where  shipbuilding  is  extensively  carried  on  lloeher  and  ('a|  e  Eurag^ 
lie  to  the  S  \V.,  ou  tne  shore  of  the  Hiiy  of  Fiuidy.  The  Cape  is  supplie  I  with  a 
fixed  light  and  steam  fog-whistle.  Continuing  on  E.  from  Harvey  Bank  ^ou  come 
to  Mary's  I'oiut,  the  famous  freestone  quarries  of  the  Provinces  and  a  beautiful 
pummer  resort.  Another  railway  ruus  IH  M.  S.  W.  from  Albert  to  Alma,  a  beau- 
tiful villaixe  ou  the  bay  shore  iJetweeu  Albert  and  llillsboro  is  a  village  of  some 
Importance,  Hopewell  Capo,  where  are  situated  the  court-house,  jail,  and  regis- 
try offices.  ShepvOij  Mountain  is  the  highest  in  the  county  (l.OoOft. ),  and  gives 
a  niagiiiflcent  view  r)f  Albert  and  Westmoreland  Counties.  The  whole  region  is 
rich  in  miues  and  quarries,  uud  supplies  tiie  tourist  with  very  good  scenery,  fisuiiig, 
and  game,     lirauch  railways  ruu  from  I'etitcudiac  to  l!ll|$iii  aud  llavelock. 

Beyond  Salisbury  tlie  Halifax  train  runs  13  M.  N.  E.  to  Monoton  (Hotel 
Brunswick),  the  headquarters  of  the  Intercolonial  liailway  and  the  site 
of  its  extensive  machine-shops.  It  is  well  laid  out,  and  has  10  churches, 
2  daily  papers,  and  large  manufacturing  works.  Its  situation  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  Petitcodiac  gives  certain  commercial  advantages,  and 
affords  opportunity  for  the  visitor  to  seethe  great  "Bore,"  or  tide-wave, 
of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  At  the  beginning  of  the  flood-tide  a  wall  of  water 
4-6  ft.  high,  sweeps  up  the  river,  and  within  6  hours  the  stream  rises 70  ft. 

The  new  division  of  the  Intercolonial  R-iihvay  runs  N.  from  Monoton,  and  is 
completed  to  meet  the  Canadian  railway  svstem  at  Riviere  du  Loup  It  passes 
through  or  near  the  chi('f  towns  of  tlie  North  Shore,  and  follows  the  Bay  of  Oha- 
leur  for  many  miles.  See  page  69  a.  A  railroad  runs  from  Monoton  to  Buctouche, 
32  M. 

Monctnn  has  7,000  Inhnbifants,  a  sugar  refinery,  cotton,  yarn,  shoe,  lock,  and 
knitting  factories,  electric  lights,  water  works,  an  opera  house,  etc. 

'liie  Halifax  train  runs  out  to  the  N.  E.  from  Monoton,  and  after  passing 
£\uns€C  Junction  (see  page  59)  deflects  to  the  S  E.  into  the  Memramcook 


1(1  P^nob- 
nro  con- 
Injjc,  ni'iir 
lU,  where 
ul  rujrgod 
ly  down  a 
tho  sand- 
da  of  the 
etitcodiiic 
nans  from 
(two  inns) 


igh  the  vil- 
imls  of  tho 
II  jiort  IVoin 
liii^^f  quaa- 
it.oi.v  closcil, 
JO  II  part  of 
t  and  most 
f(;>/e  />('"/), 
(lint  all  tlie 
iity's  tiadc. 
r  aiul  H<(r- 
\i\ti  Kiirag^ 
|)liu  I  with  a 
<.  jou  come 
a  buautiful 
na,  a  licaii- 

HC    (if    SOIIM5 

1,  and  rcKis- 
),  and  \i\wn 
(>  rcKion  is 
,  fisuiug, 

k. 


SACKVILLE. 


Boute  16.       73 


:'ry, 


ton  {Hotel 

|d  thu  site 

churches, 

the  head 

Itaf^es,  and 
tide-wave, 
of  water 

Irises  70  ft. 

|on,  and  ia 

It  passes 

ay  of  Cha- 

Suctouche, 

lock,  and 

^r  passing 
irauicook 


Valfoy.  It  soon  roaches  tho  connootod  viHagos  of  Afemrnmcook  and  St. 
Joseph  (three  Inns),  occupying  tho  centre  of  u  prosperous  farming  district 
which  is  inhiibited  by  over  1,000  Acadians,  — n  piotis  and  simple-hcMirtod 
Catholic  ])easantry,  —  a  hirge  jiortion  of  wiiom  belong  to  the  i)roli(ic  fami- 
lies of  LebhuK*,  ('()rini(>r,  (Jatidet,  and  l{oii(|U(i.  On  th(!  opposite  shore  Is 
tho  College  of  St.  , Joseph  do  Menn-amcook,  where  about  100  students 
(mostly  from  Caiuula  and  the  United  States)  are  conducted  through  a 
high-school  curriculuni  by  12  friars  and  ecclesiastics.  Ncvir  tho  college 
is  the  handsome  stone  (Uuirch  of  St,  Joseph  de  Memramcook. 

The  Vallc}'  of  the  Menu'amcooU,  down  which  the  train  descends  to  Dor- 
chester, possesses  one  of  the  most  charming  landscn|)es  in  the  country. 
Two  high  parallel  ridges,  wooded  and  well  settled,  are  seen  on  either 
hand,  while  the  valley  itself,  like  the  Tautranuir  Marshcn,  is  a  dead  level, 
miles  in  length,  being  made  up  from  the  sea  by  tidal  deposits,  and  in  June 
it  is  an  ocean  of  bright  green.  Dorchester  {Dorchester  Hotel)  is  a  pros- 
perous village  of  800  inhabitants,  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  river 
and  among  the  finest  wheat-lands  in  New  Brunswick.  Dorchester  has  4 
churches,  the  public  buildings  of  Westmoreland  (\)unty,  and  numerous 
pleasant  residences.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Memramcook,  at  Rock- 
land, are  quarries  of  freestone,  several  thousand  tons  of  which  are  shipped 
annually  to  Boston  and  New  York.  Shipbuilding  and  shipowiiing  is  the 
leading  business.  The  traveller  by  train  is  surprised  to  rce  vessels  of 
1,000  tons,  being  built  in  the  woods,  two  miles  from  apparent  water. 
They  are  launched  at  high-tides  into  a  creek  at  iiand.  A  large  and  im- 
posing freestone  building  on  tlie  heights  above  the  town  is  tlie  Maritime 
Penitentiary. 

A  ferry  crosses  Shopody  Bay  to  Hopewell  Cape  (see  page  72) ;  and  6-8  51.  W.  of 
Dorchester  is  Beltiveau  villaj^e,  niiu^  tentlis  of  whose  inhabitants  belong  to  tho  fami- 
lies of  IJelliveau,  Gautroault,  and  Molan(;on.  This  settlement  was  namcMl  in  honor 
of  tlie  venerable  M.  Helllveau,  whose  long  l-.rV  extended  from  1730  to  1840.  In  1776 
many  of  the  Acadians  of  this  vicinity  jo;  sed  the  New  England  forces  under  Col. 
.Eddy,  who  occupied  Sackville  and  attacked  Fort  Cumberland  (see  page  78). 

The  train  now  runs  E.  12  M.  from  Dorchester  to  Sackville  {lintnsmck 
House),  a  rising  and  prosperous  village  of  about  1,500  inhabitants,  situated 
on  a  red  sandstone  slope  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tantramar  i  River,  near  the 
head  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  It  has  ship-yards,  a  stove  foundry,  a  news- 
paper, and  8  churches.  Sackville  is  tho  seat  of  the  Mount  Allison  Wes- 
leyan  College,  an  institution  which  was  founded  by  Mr.  C.  F.  Allison,  and 
is  conducted  by  the  Wesleyan  Conference  of  Eastern  British  America.  It 
includes  a  small  college,  a  theological  hall,  and  academies  for  boys  and 
girls.  A  road  leads  from  Sackville  S.  E.  down  the  rugged  headland  be- 
tween Cumberland  Basin  and  Shepody  Bay,  passing  the  marine  hamlets 
of  Woodpoint  (5  M.),  Hockport  (12  AL),  and  N.  Joggius,  14  M.  trom  Sack- 
ville, and  near  the  highlands  of  Cape  Marangouln. 

1  Tantramar,  from  the  French  word  Tintamarre,  meaning  "  a  thundering  noise." 
4 


74       Route  16. 


TANTRAMAR   MARSH. 


\m 


■  t 


?:l  J    ..* 


J  I.  if  <  ■ 


8)U'kvlllo  in  thfi  polnf.  cstiihH:<Jn'(l  for  th«'  nutlet  of  tlu>  |»roj«Tt«il  Balft  \>rt« 
CniiHl,  II  iiHcfiil  work  IS  M.  lontr,  wliw-li  wouM  nllow  v<'ssi«|.s  to  pi.MS  from  Hn-  Miiy 
of  b'liiKly  to  tin*  <hilf  of  St.  Ijuwrmcc  witlidut  hiiviti^  to  round  the  Irou-liouml  |k'- 
nin!«ula  of  Nova  Scotia.  Thin  caual  lian  liccii  |ilauu*il  timl  (lc«irc<|  for  ov«>r  a  coti- 
turv.hut  uothliiji  lias  yet  Iiim-u  dotic,  i-xccpt  tin-  survcyiinr  of  tin-  ixtluinis.  Tri- 
Wf»'klv  stnjrcs  run  N.  K.  aloii«  ttio  tclcjrriipli-roiKl  from  Sackvlih'  to  .lolicoMir  (Id  M  ), 
n.ii.'  Vcrfc  ll(..i.l  (U  M  ),  Unit-  V.Ttc  (IM  M.,Hniiill  iim),  mimI  I'ort  Klk'in  (20  M  ;  Inn). 
Ahout  IH  M.  N.  K  of  I'ort  Kltfiii  is  <:ii|ih  loriii<>iitiii«>,  "flit-  K'r<'at  iicaillainl 
which  forms  tlic  K.  extremity  of  New  Mruuswick  wiihiii  the  (lulf  ImliMU  point 
iiiay  he  siiiil  to  foriu  the  HouMieru,  and  ('ape  .lonrimain  the  northern  (lointH  of  thin 
h"M(|liMid,  whidi  is  a  pla<'e  of  importance  in  a  nautical  jioint  of  view,  not  only  from 
its  position,  hut  from  its  dan>jerous  and  extensive  shoids."  The  subiniirino  teln- 
Kraph  to  Prince  Ivlward  Island  crosses  from  Cape  .lourimiiin  ;  and  it  is  from  tliin 
point  tliat  the  winter  mail-service  is  ((inducted,  when  the  mails,  passengers,  and 
imjf}?age  are  sulijected  to  an  exciting  and  jierilous  tran.-it  in  ice-hoats  to  Cni;c  Truv- 
crse.  Iliiie  Verte  is  !)  M.  wide  and  11  M.  deep,  hut  alTords  no  good  Khelfer.  It  re- 
ceives tho  Tignisli  and  (iasjiereau  Hivers,  and  at  tlie  nioutli  of  tlio  latter  arc  tho 
ancient  ruins  of  i'ort  Moncton. 

Alaiut  201)  students  attend  the  Mount-Allison  I'duratinnnl  Institution. 
Sac'kville  possesses  40  s(|uan'  miles  of  marsh  lands,  tiiat  produce  enormous 
crops  of  j^'rasses.  Lar.ije  sliipmetits  of  hay  anil  eattle  are  made  from  here; 
the  latter  to  the  Enizlish  markets.  The  hoi;a  nml  lakes  at  the  head  id'  ihe 
marshes  are  haunts  of  snipe  and  diud<,  and  are  a  favorite  resort  of  sports- 
men. Sacixville  has  a  Music  Hall.  The  New-Brunswick  &  Prince- 
Edward-Island  Railway  runs  from  Sackville  to  Cajie  Tornu'titino,  step- 
pi  nj^  at  intermediate  points  (see  ahove).  This  is  the  winter  mail-route  to 
P.  K.  Island. 

At  Sackville  the  Halifax  train  crosses  tho  Tantramar  River,  and  runs 
out  over  the  wide  Tantramar  Marsh  to  Aulac,  or  Cole's  Island  (stage  to 
Cape  Torinentine),  near  vvliieh  it  crosses  the  Aulac  IJiver.  Trains  are 
sometimes  blocked  in  on  these  plains  during  the  snow-stortns  of  winter, 
and  the  passengers  are  subjected  to  great  hardships.  The  Missiguash 
River  is  next  crossed,  with  the  ruins  of  Fort  Beausejour  (Cinnberlund)  on 
the  N.,  and  of  Fort  Reaubassin  (Lawrence)  on  the  S.  These  forts  are  best 
visited  from  Amherst,  which  is  4-5  M.  distant,  and  is  reached  after  trav- 
ersing the  Missi</unsh  Marsh.  The  Missiguash  Kiver  is  the  boundary 
between  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  and  Amherst  is  tho  first  town 
reached  in  the  latter  Trovince. 

Fort  Lawrence  is  the  W.  terminus  of  the  proposed  Chignocto  Marine 
Railway,  whereby  it  is  intended  to  carry  ships  of  1,000  tons  with  their 
cargoes  between  the  Straits  of  Northumberland  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 
a  distance  of  17  M.  The  Canadian  (iovernment  has  subsidized  the  pro- 
ject with  $  150,000  per  annum  for  25  years,  and  an  English  Company 
began  work  in  1883.  This  scheme  is  a  substitute  for  the  Baie  Verte 
Canal,  which  was  abandoned  in  1875. 

Amherst  to  Halifax,  see  Route  17. 


«•  V««rte 

n  tlx'  Itiiy 

iMtlltlll    |K>- 

vtT  II  <t'n- 
jus.  Trl- 
iirdOM  ), 
M   ;  inn). 

Iti'iiillaixl 
li.'tll  I'nllit 
itM  (if  tllU 
(iiily  from 
II lino  tclo- 

froiii  t\\\A 
igers,  uiiil 
'ni-o  Truv- 
er.  It  re- 
el" uro  tlio 

istitutinn. 

rum  here; 
\(1  11 1  iIh) 
)f  syiorts- 
Prince- 
ilio,  stop- 
il-route  to 

and  runs 
(stMgo  to 
•iiins  uro 
f  winter, 
i^isiguasli 
land)  on 
are  best 
fter  trav- 
)()undary 
irst  town 

Marine 
|ith  their 

Fund)', 
I  the  pro- 
i^ompauy 
Lie  Verte 


NOVA    SCOTIA. 


The  Province  of  Xovii  Scotia  is  peninsular  in  location,  and  is  connected 
with  the  mainland  by  an  isthmus  8  M.  wide.  It  is  hounded  on  the  N.  by 
the  Bay  of  Fundy,  the  Strait  of  Northumberland,  and  theGulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence; on  the  K.  and  S.  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean;  and  on  the  W.  by  the 
ocean,  the  Hay  of  Fundy,  and  the  Trovhu'e  of  New  Urunswiek.  Its  length, 
from  Cape  Oanso  to  Cape  St.  Mary,  is  8S3  M.,  and  its  breadth  varies  from 
fiO  M.  to  104  M.  The  area  of  the  peninsula  is  10.000  square  miles.  The 
pftpulation  is440,r)7-J,  of  whom  117,487  are  Roman  ■Catholics,  II '2,000  Pres- 
byterians, 8-1,r,00  Baptists,  (i0,2r)r)  Church  of  En';lan(l  people,  51,000  Metho- 
dists,  and  DM  Fnilarians.  405,000  are  natives  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  21,000 
fronj  the  British  Islands. 

"Acadie  is  n)uch  warmer  in  summer  and  much  colder  in  winter  than 
the  countries  in  Europe  lying  uiuler  the  same  j)arallel3  of  latitude" 
(Southern  France,  Sardinia,  Lombardy,  Genoa,  Venice,  Northern  Tur- 
key, the  Crimea,  and  Circassia).  "The  spring  seasim  is  colder  and  the 
autumn  more  agreeable  than  those  on  the  opi)Osite  side  of  the  Atlantic. 
Its  climate  is  favorable  to  agriculture,  its  soil  generally  fertile.  The  land 
is  well  watered  by  rivers,  brooks,  and  lakes.  The  supply  of  timber  for 
use  and  for  exportation  may  be  considered  as  inexhaustil)le.  The  fish- 
eries on  the  coasts  are  abundant.  The  harbors  are  numerous  and  excel- 
lent. Wild  animals  are  abundant,  among  which  are  reiiitirkable  the  moose, 
caribou,  and  red  deer.  Wild  fowl  also  are  plenty.  Extensive  tracts  of 
alluvial  land  of  great  value  are  found  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  These  lands 
have  a  natural  richness  that  dispenses  with  all  manuring;  all  that  is 
wanted  to  keep  them  in  order  is  spade-work.  As  to  cereals,  —  wheat, 
rye,  oats,  buckwheat,  maize,  all  prosper.  The  potato,  the  hop,  flax,  and 
liemp  are  everywhere  prolific.  The  vegetables  of  the  kitchen  garden  are 
successfully  raised.  Of  fruit  there  are  many  wild  kinds,  and  the  apple, 
pear,  plum,  and  cherry  seem  almost  indigenous.  The  vine  thrives ;  good 
grapes  are  often  raised  in  the  open  air.  It  was  said  by  a  French  writer 
that  Acadie  produced  readily  everything  that  grew  in  Old  France,  except 
the  olive. 

"  In  the  peninsula,  cr  Acadie  proper,  there  is  an  abundance  of  mineral 
wealth.  Coal  is  found  in  Cumberland  and  Pictou:  iron  ore,  in  Colchester 
and  Annapolis  Counties;  gypsum,  in  Hants;  marble  and  limestone,  in  dif- 
ferent localities;  fi-eestone,  for  building,  at  Romsheg  (Port  Wallace)  and 


Memor 


iai 


Library 


76 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


J  li    5  ki  s' , 


"if:. 


Pictou;  granite,  near  Halifax,  Shelburne,  etc;  brick  clay,  in  the  counties 
of  Halifax  and  Annapolis.  The  amethysts  of  Parrsborough  and  its  vicin- 
ity have  been  long  celebrated,  and  pearls  have  been  found  lately'  in  the 
Annapolis  River.  The  discovery  of  gold  along  the  whole  Atlantic  shore  of 
the  peninsula  of  Nova  Scotia  has  taken  place  since  1860,  and  it  now  gives 
steady  remunerative  employment  to  about  800  or*  1,000  laborers,  with 
every  expectation  of  its  expansion."  (Beamish  Muhdocii.)  The  pro- 
duction of  gold  from  the  Nova-Scotia  mines  amounts  to  $  400,000  a  year. 

In  1881,  Nova  Scotia  had  440,572  inhal)itants,  of  whom  140,027  are  of 
Scotch  origin,  128,986  English,  60,007  Iri^h,  41,210  French.  Of  these, 
117,487  are  Koman  Catholics,  112,488  Presbyterians,  8;j,761  Baptists, 
60,255  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  50,811  Methodists. 

The  territory  now  occupied  by  the  Maritime  Provinces  was  known  for 
nearly  two  centuries  by  the  name  of  Acadie,^  and  was  the  scene  of  fre- 
quent wars  between  Britain  and  France.  Its  first  discoverers  were  the 
Northmen,  about  the  year  1000  A.  d.,  and  Sebastian  Cabot  rediscovered 
it  in  1498.  In  1518  and  1598  futile  attempts  were  made  by  French  nobles 
to  found  colonies  here,  and  French  fishermen,  fur-traders,  and  explorers 
frequented  these  shores  for  over  a  century.  In  1605  a  settlement  was 
founded  at  Port  Royal,  after  the  discoveries  of  De  Monts  and  Champlain, 
but  it  was  broken  up  in  1618  by  the  Virginians,  who  claimed  that  Acadie 
belonged  to  Britain  by  virtue  of  Cabot's  discovery.  In  1621  James  I. 
of  England  granted  to  Sir  William  Alexander  the  domain  called  NovA 
Scotia,  includii:g  all  the  lands  E.  of  a  line  drawn  from  Passamoquoddy 
Bay  N.  to  the  St.  Lawrence;  but  this  claim  was  renounced  in  1632,  and 
the  rival  French  nobles,  ,La  Tour  and  D' Aulna}'',  commenced  their  fratri- 
cidal wars,  each  striving  to  be  sole  lord  of  Acadie.  In  1654  the  Province 
was  captured  by  a  force  sent  out  by  Cromwell,  but  the  French  interest 
soon  regained  its  former  position. 

The  order  of  the  Baronets  of  Nova  Scotia  was  founded  bv  King  Charles 
I.,  in  1625,  and  consisted  of  150  well-born  gentlemen  of  Scotland,  who  re- 
ceived, with  their  titles  and  insignia,  grants  of  18  square  miles  each,  in  the 
wide  domains  of  Acadia.  These  manors  were  to  be  settled  by  the  baronets 
at  their  own  expense,  and  were  expected  in  time  to  yield  handsome 
revenues.  But  little  was  ever  accomplished  by  this  order.  Meantime 
Cardinal  Richelieu  founded  and  became  grand  master  of  a  more  powerful 
French  association  called  the  Company  of  New  France  (1627).    It  con- 


1  Acadia  is  the  Anglicized  (or  Lntinizod)  form  of  Acadie,  nn  Indian  word  sienifying 
"  till' jilace,' or  "  the  region. "  It  is  a  part  of  the  eonipoinul  words  Segeel>eii-ucaaiv  {^hu- 
benaendie  ,  meaning  "  place  of  wild  potatoes  '';  TuUnk-cadii'  (Trucadie  ,  meaning  "  dwellinp- 
plaee  ' ;  ,Sini-iiciidir,  or  "  jjUice  of  crnnherries  ";  Kit/ioo-arnr'ic,  or  "place  of  eagles,'  and 
others  of  similar  form.  Tlie  Milicete  trihes  pronounced  this  word  "  Oiioddy,  whence 
l'eKtuiiioo-iiiiodd;>  (Passamoquoddy,  meaning  "  i)!ace  of  pollocks  ' ;  I^oodi-qiioddii,  or 
"  place  of  seals,'  etc.  Wlicn  n  British  officer  was  descending  the  Slinhonncndie  wit!',  a  Mic- 
rnnc  guide,  lie  inquired  how  the  name  originated,  the  Indian  answered,  "  Because  plenty 
wild  potatoes  —  t^fg^ebrn  —  once  grew  here.'  "  Well, '  acadie,'  Paul,  what  does  that  mean  if 
*♦  Means  —  where  you  find  'em, '  rejoined  the  Micmac. 


J  counties 

its  vicin- 

ely  in  the 

c  shore  of 

now  gives 

•ers,  ■with 

The  pro- 

D  a  year. 

1)27  are  of 

Of  these, 

Baptists, 

known  for 
ene  of  fre- 

were  the 
liscovered 
ich  nobles 

explorers 
■ment  was 
Ihamplain, 
mt  Acadie 

James  I. 
led  Nova 

oq noddy 

1632,  and 
leir  fratri- 

Province 
Ih  interest 

ig  Charles 

p,  who  re- 

[ch,  in  the 

baronets 

handsome 

deantime 

powerful 

It  con- 


siflrnifving 

rnilic  (hliu- 
dwelliiip- 
|ngk's,'   and 

\(nio(Ut)i,  or 

luse  plenty 
lat  mean  if^ 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


77 


sisted  of  100  members,  who  received  Acadia,  Quebec,  Florida,  and  New- 
foundland "  in  simple  homage,"  and  had  power  to  erect  duchies,  marquis- 
ates,  and  seigniories,  subject  to  the  royal  approval.  They  allowed  French 
Catholics  only  to  settle  on  these  lands,  and  were  protected  by  national 
frigates.  This  order  continued  for  40  years,  and  was  instrumental  in 
founding  numerous  villages  along  the  Nova^Scotian  coast. 

In  1690  the  New-Englanders  overran  the  Province  and  seized  the  for- 
tresses, but  it  was  restored  to  France  in  1697.  In  1703  and  1707  unsuc- 
cessful expeditions  were  sent  from  Massachusetts  against  the  Acadian 
strongholds,  but  they  were  finally  captured  in  1710;  and  in  1713  Nova 
Scotia  was  ceded  to  Great  Brirain  by  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht.  The  Prov- 
ince was  kept  in  a  condition  of  disorder  for  the  next  40  years,  by  the  dis- 
affection of  its  French  popuhition  and  the  lawlessness  of  the  Indians,  and 
the  British  fortresses  were  often  menaced  and  attacked.  After  the  founda- 
tion of  Halifax,  in  1749,  a  slow  tide  of  immigration  set  in  and  strengthened 
the  government.  In  1755  the  French  peov^le  in  the  Province  (7,000  in  num- 
ber) were  suddenly  seized  and  transpoit^l  to  the  remote  American  colo- 
nies, and  the  French  forts  on  the  Baie-Vcrte  frontier  were  captured. 

In  1758  the  first  House  of  Assembly  met  at  Halifax,  and  in  1763  the 
French  power  in  America  was  finally  and  totally  crushed.  At  the  close 
of  the  Revolution,  20,000  self-exiled  Americans  settled  in  Nova  Scotia; 
and  in  1784  New  Brunswick  and  Cape  Breton  were  withdrawn  and  made 
into  separate  provinces  (Cape  Breton  was  reunited  to  Nova  Scotia,  in  1820). 
During  the  Revolution  and  the  War  of  1812  Halifax  was  the  chief  station 
of  the  British  navy,  and  the  shores  of  the  Province  were  continually 
harassed  by  American  privateers. 

In  1864  a  convention  was  held  at  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I.,  to  consider 
measures  for  forming  a  federal  union  of  the  Maritime  Provinces.  During 
the  session  Canadian  delegates  were  admitted,  on  the  request  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  Provinces;  and  a  subsequent  congress  of  all  the  Provinces  was 
held  at  Quebec,  at  which  the  plan  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada  was  elabo- 
rated. It  is  now  thought  that  this  quasi-national  government  does  not  fulfil 
all  the  original  wishes  of  the  seaboard  regions,  and  that  it  may  be  well  to 
unite  (or  reunite)  the  Maritime  Provinces  into  one  powerful  province 
called  Acadia,  by  which  the  expense  of  three  local  legislatures  and  cabi- 
nets could  be  saved,  their  homogeneous  commercial  interests  could  be 
favored  by  uniform  laws,  and  the  populous  and  wealthy  Provinces  of  Que- 
bec and  Ontario  could  be  balanced  in  the  Dominion  Parliament. 


"  There  are  perhaps  no  Provinces  in  the  world  possessing  finer  harbors, 
or  furnishing  in  greater  abundance  all  the  conveniences  of  life.  The  climate 
is  quite  mild  and  very  healthy,  and  no  lands  have  been  found  that  are  not 

of  surpassing  fertility Finally,  nowhere  are  there  to  be  seen  forests 

more  beautiful  or  with  wood  better  fitted  for  buildings  and  masts.    There 


78      Route  17. 


AMHERST. 


ill 


h     V4% 

I      !>v 


are  in  some  places  copper  mines,  and  in  otliers  of  coal The  fish  most 

commortly  caught  ©n  the  coast  are  the  cod,  sahnon,  maclterel,  herring-, 
sardine,  shad,  trout,  gotte,  gaparot.  barbel,  sturgeon,  goberge,  —  all  fish 
that  can  be  salted  and  exported.     Seals,  walruses,  and  whales  are  found 

in  great  numbers The  rivers,  too,  are  full  of  fresh-water  fish,  and  the 

banks  teem  with  countless  game."     (Father  Charlevoix,  1765.) 

"Herewith  I  enter  the  lists  as  the  champion  of  Nova  Scotia Were 

I  to  give  a  first-class  certificate  of  its  general  character,  I  would  aflirm  that 
it  yields  a  greater  variety  of  products  for  export  than  any  territory  on  the 
globe  of  the  same  superficial  area.  This  is  saying  a  great  deal.  Let  us 
see  :  she  has  ice,  lumber,  ships,  salt-fish,  salmon  and  lobsters,  coal,  iron, 
gold,  copper,  plaster,  slate,  grindstones,  fat  cattle,  wool,  potatoes,  apples, 
iarge  game,  and  furs."    (Charles  Hallock,  1873.) 


17.    St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax. 

St.  John  to  Amherst,  see  preceding  route. 

Amherst  (Amherst  Hotel)  is  a  flourishing  town  midway 

between  St.  John  and  Halifax  (138  M.  from  each).  It  is  the  capital  of 
Cumberland  County,  Mova  Scotia,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  head 
of  the  Cumberland  Basin,  one  of  the  great  arms  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  It 
has  4,r)00  inhabitants,  and  is  engaged  in  the  luiriber  trade;  while  the  im- 
mense area  of  fertile  meadows  about  the  town  furnishes  profitable  employ- 
ment for  a  large  rural  population.  Bi-weekly  stages  run  N.  E.  up  the 
Valley  of  the  La  Planche  to  Ttdnish  (two  inns),  a  village  of  300  inhabitants 
on  Bale  Verte.  Tri-weekly  stages  run  N.  E.  to  Shinimicas  and  the  large 
farming  district  called  the  Head  of  Amherst,  which  has  over  2,000  in- 
habitants. 

The  present  domain  of  Nova  Scotia  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain  by  the  Treaty  of 
Utrecht,  in  1713,  but  its  boundaries  were  not  defined,  and  the  French  determined  to 
limit  it  on  tlie  N.  to  the  Mispit^uash  River.  To  this  end  Got.  La  Jonquiere  pent  M. 
lia  Come,  with  6(J0  soldiers,  lo  erect  forts  on  the  line  of  the  Missiguash.  The  war- 
tior-priest,  the  Abbe  Laloutre  (Vicar-General  of  Acadie),  led  many  Acadians  to  this 
vicinity,  where  the  flourishing  settlement  of  Beanhnsain  was  founded.  At  the  same 
time  La  Come  established  a  chain  of  military  posts  from  the  Bay  of  Fundy  to  Bale 
Terte,  the  chief  fort  being  located  on  the  present  site  of  Fort  Cumberland,  and  bear- 
ing the  name  of  Benusejour.  The  governor  of  Nova  Scotia  sent  out  a  British  force 
under  Major  Lawrence,  who  captured  and  destroyed  Bcaubassin,  and  erected  Fort 
Lawrence  ne.ar  its  site.  The  Acadians  were  industriously  laboring  in  the  peaceful 
pursuit.^  of  agriculture  about  Beauscjour ;  and  the  King  of  France  had  granted 
80,000  livres  for  the  great  nboideau  across  the  Aulac  River.  The  British  complained, 
however,  that  the  priests  were  endeavoring  to  array  the  Acadians  against  them, 
and  to  entice  them  away  from  the  Nova-Scotian  shores.  It  was  received  that  the 
Prfinch  forces  should  be  driven  from  their  position,  and  a  powerful  expedition  was 
fitted  out  at  Boston.  Three  frigates  and  a  number  of  transports  conveying  the  New- 
England  levies  sailed  up  the  Bay  of  Fuudy  in  May,  1755,  aud  debarked  a  gtrong 


FORT  CUMBERLAND. 


Route  17. 


79 


land  force  at  Fort  T.I wr"iK  Meantlmo  1,200-1,500  Acadlans  had  been  feathered 
about  Beausejour,  by  tiie  '!  iiumce  of  the  Abbe  Laloutre,  and  a  sharp  skiruiLsh  waa 
fought  ou  L'lsle  do  la  Vallitiv  Ou  the  4th  of  .lutie  the  Anj;io-Aiut'ri(an  forces  left 
their  camps  oa  the  rUk  is  of  Fort  Liwrence,  routed  tlie  Acadiana  at  the  fords  of  the 
Missiguash,  and  advanced  by  parallels  and  siege-lines  ugainst  the  hostile  works. 
When  the  I3ritish  batteries  rcaclunl  ]5utte-a-(!hiiries  the  fort  was  vigorously  Bhelled, 
and  with  such  disastrous  effect  that  it  capitulated  on  .lune  lGth,thc  garrison  march- 
ing out  with  arms,  baggage,  and  banners.  Tiie  French  troops  were  ])arolcd  and 
sent  to  Loui.'sbourg,  and  the  Acadians  were  suffered  to  remain.  Laloutre,  escaping 
to  Quebec,  there  received  an  ecclesijistical  censure,  and  was  afterwards  remanded  to 
France. 

In  November,  1776,  Col.  Eddy  led  a  force  of  Massachusetts  troops,  men  of  Mau- 
gerville,  Acadi.ins,  and  Indians,  against  Fort  (lumbcrlnnd.  lie  first  cut  out  a  store- 
vessel  from  under  the  guns  of  the  fort,  and  captured  several  detachments  of  the  gar- 
rison (the  Royal  Fencibles).  The  counnandant  refused  to  surrender,  and  repulsed 
the  Americans  in  a  night-attack,  by  means  of  a  furious  cannonade.  Eddy  then 
blockaded  the  fort  for  several  days,  Init  was  finally  driven  off  by  the  arrival  of  a 
man-of-war  from  Ilalifax,  bringing  a  reinforcement  of  400  men.  The  Massachusetts 
camp  was  broken  up  1>y  a  sortie,  and  all  its  stores  were  destroyed.  The  Americans 
fled  to  the  forest,  and  fell  back  on  the  St.  John  Ilivcr.  A  large  proportion  of  the 
men  of  Cumberland  County  wont  to  Maine  after  thia  campaign,  despairing  of  the 
success  of  Republicanism  in  the  Maritime  Provinces.  Among  them  were  a  consid- 
erable number  of  Acadians. 

The  ruins  of  Fort  Cumberland  are  a  few  miles  N.  W.  of  Amherst,  beyond  the 
Aulac  River,  and  on  a  high  bluff  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Point  de  Bute  range  of  hills. 
It  was  Icept  in  repair  by  tlie  Imperial  Government  for  many  years  after  its  capture, 
and  .still  presents  an  appearance  of  strength  and  solidity,  though  it  has  been  long 
deserted.  The  remains  of  the  besiegers'  parallels  are  also  vit^ible  near  the  works. 
On  a  bold  bluff  within  cannon-shot,  on  the  farther  bank  of  the  Missiguash  River, 
are  the  scanty  remains  of  the  British  Fort  Lawrence.  Numerous  relics  of  the  old 
Acadians  may  still  be  traced  in  this  vicinity.  5  M.  above  the  fort,  on  the  Bale  V'erte 
road,  is  Bloody  Bridge,  where  a  British  foraging  party  under  Col.  Dixon  was  sur- 
prised and  massacred  by  the  Indians  (under  French  offlccrs). 

The  *  view  from  the  bastions  of  Fort  Cundiorland  is  famous  for  its  extent  and 
beauty.  It  includes  Sackville  and  its  colleges  on  the  N.  W.,  Amherst  and  the 
Nova-Scotian  shores  on  tlie  S.  Vj.,  and  the  blulfand  hamlet  of  Fort  Lawrence.  The 
wide  and  blooming  expanse  of  the  T.uitramar  and  Missiguash  Marshes  is  over- 
looked,—  the  view  including  over  50,000  acres  of  rich  marine  intervale,  —  and  on 
the  S.  the  eye  travels  for  many  leagiles  down  the  blue  sheet  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy 
(Cumb(!rland  Basin). 

The  great  Taiitratnar  Marsh  is  S.  of  Sackville,  and  is  9  M.  long  by  4  M.  wide, 
being  also  traversed  by  the  Tancramar  and  Aulac  Rivers.  It  is  composed  of  fine 
silicious  matter  deposited  as  marine  alluvium,  and  is  called  "red  marsh,"  in  dis- 
tinction from  the  "  blue  marsh  "  of  the  uplands.  The  low  shores  around  the  head 
of  the  Bay  of  Fundy  for  a  distance  of  20  M.  have  been  reclaimed  by  the  erection  of 
dikes,  with  aboideaiix  at  the  mouths  of  the  rivers  to  exclude  the  flow  of  the  tides. 
The  land  thus  gnined  is  very  rich,  and  produces  fine  crops  of  English  hay,  averag- 
ing from  1)^  to  2  tons  to  the  acre.  The  land  seems  inexhaustible,  having  been  cul- 
tivated now  for  nearly  a  century  without  rotation  or  fertilization. 


l\ 


li 


I 


m 


I 


M 


The  Chiymcto  Peninsula. 

Mlnudie  is  8  M.  S.  W.  of  Amherst,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  ferry  across 
the  estuaries  of  the  Miiccan  and  Ilebert  Rivers.  It  has  (iOO  inhabitants,  and  is  near 
the  rich  meadows  called  the  Elysian  Fields.  In  the  vicinity  are  profitable  quarries 
of  grindstones,  and  there  are  shad-fisheries  to  the  S.  W.  G-8  M.  S.  are  the  Joggins 
Mines,  pertaining  to  the  General  Mining  Association  of  London  ;  and  the  Victoria 
Mines,  on  the  river  Ilebert.  Coal  has  been  obtained  thence  for  25  years.  This  dis- 
trict is  reached  by  stages  from  Maccan  station.  About  the  year  1730  the  coal-mines 
at  Chignecto  were  leased  to  ti  Boston  company,  wliich  was  to  pay  a  quit-rent  of  one 
penny  an  acre  (on  4,01)0  acres),  and  a  royalty  of  18  pence  per  chaldron  on  the  coal 
raised.  But  this  enterprise  was  brolion  i^p  i.i  17>j2,  when  the  warehouses  and  ma- 
chinery were  destroyed  by  the  Indians  (probably  incited  by  the  French  at  Louis- 
bourg). 


w 


M 


'-'^%^tiii^ 


80       Route  17. 


COBEQUID  MTS. 


■  n- 


It' 


The  JogfclnH  Shore  extends  to  the  S.  W.  alonpc  tlie  Chij?nfwto  Channel,  and  is 
remarkable  fqf  its  ifcoloKifHl  ]HH-(iliai'ities,  which  have  been  visiterl  and  studied  by 
European  savans.  Tlio  local  explanation  of  the  name  is  that  the  eliHk  here  '"jog  In  '' 
and  out  in  an  unexampled  maimer.  Tiie  heixhtof  the  clilTs  is  fi-om  130  to  40(1  ft. ;  and 
the  width  of  thoChi^pnicto  Hasin  is  from  5  to  8  M.  3r)-4<»  M.  from  Amherst  i.s  Ajipfe 
Kiver^  a  sequestered  liamlet  on  the  estuary  of  the  Apple  Uiver,  anddst  fine  marine 
Bcenery.  Apple  Head  i.s  just  W.  of  this  place,  and  is  413  ft.  lii^h,  overlooking  the 
Chignecto  Channel  and  the  New-l5runswick  shori;s.  Tliere  is  a  fixed  white  liplit  on 
Its  outer  point.  To  the  E  ,  Apple  River  traverses  the  Caribou  I'lains,  and  on  its 
upper  waters  alTords  tho  best  of  trout-lishing,with  an  abundance  of  salmon  between 
i"el)ruary  and  .Inly.  15- '20  M.  S.  W.  of  Apple  Iliver,  by  a  road  which  cros.'ies  tho 
Oobequid  Mts.  K.  of  Capo  Chignecto,  is  Advocate  Harbor  (kco  Route  21). 

"  The  road  from  Amherst  to  Parrsboro'  is  tedious  and  uninteresting.  Tn  placefl 
it  is  made  so  straight  that  you  run  see  several  miles  of  it  before  yon,  whieli  produces 
an  appearance  of  interniinabje  length,  while  the  stuuted  growth  of  tho  spruce  and 
birch  trees  besi)eaks  a  cold,  thin  soil,  and  invests  the  scene  with  a  melancholy  and 
sterile  a.spect."  (.Iudge  IIaliburton.)  Tliis  road  is  3^5  M.  long,  ascending  the  val- 
ley of  the  Maccan  River,  and  passing  the  handet  of  Cannan,  near  the  Cobequid  Mts. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  S.  from  Amherst  to  Maccan  (stajres  to  Minudie 
and  Jofjf^iiis),  in  the  gveAt  coal-field  of  Cumberland  County.  A  railway 
runs  in  12  M.  from  Maccan  to  the  Joggins  coal-mines.  From  Athol  the 
line  passes  to  Spring  Hill,  a  coal-mining  district,  whence  a  railway  has 
been  constructed  to  Parrsboro'  (see  Route  21).  11  M.  beyond  is  the  station 
at  River  Philip  (small  hotel),  a  pleasant  stream  in  which  good  fishing  is 
found.  The  salmon  are  especially  abundant  during  the  springtime.  Oxford 
station  (two  inns)  has  two  small  woollen  factories,  and  is  14  M.  S.  VV.  of 
Pugwash,  on  the  Northumberland  Strait.  A  railroad  runs  hence  to  the 
North  Shore. 

The  train  now  passes  through  extensive  forests,  in  which  many  sugar- 
maples  are  .seen,  and  begins  the  ascent  of  the  Cobec[uid  Mts.,  with  the 
Wallace  Valley  below  on  the  1.  The  Cobeciuid  range  runs  almost  due  E. 
and  W.  from  Truro,  and  is  100  M.  long,  with  an  average  breadth  of  10-12 
M.  It  consists  of  a  succession  of  rounded  hills,  800-  1,000  feet  high,  cov- 
ered with  tall  and  luxuriant  forests  of  beech  and  sugar-maple.  From 
Thomson,  Greenville,  and  Wentworth  stations  stages  run  to  Wallace  and 
Pugwash  (see  page  81),  also  to  Tatamagouche.  The  railway  traverses  tho 
hill-country  by  the  Follij  Pass,  and  has  its  heaviest  grades  between  Folly 
Lake  and  Londonderry;  where  are  also  2-3  M.  of  snow-sheds,  to  protect 
the  deep  cuttings  from  the  drifting  in  of  snow  from  the  hills.  Fine  views 
of  the  Wallace  Valley  are  afforded  from  the  open  levels  of  the  line.  From 
Londonderry  a  railway  runs  to  Acadia  Mines,  a  town  of  3,000  inhabitants, 
with  4  churches.  Here  are  the  blast-furnaces  and  rolling-mill  of  the  Can- 
ada Steel  Co.  The  ores  are  magnetic,  specular,  and  hematite,  and  occur  in 
a  wedge-shaped  vein  7  M.  long  and  120  ft.  thick.  The  iron  is  of  tine 
quality,  but  is  diilicult  to  AVork. 

The  train  descends  from  the  Pass  along  the  line  of  the  Folly  River,  which 
it  crosses  on  a  bridge  200  feet  above  the  water.  Beyond  the  farming  set- 
tlement of  Debert  (stages  to  Economy  and  Five  Isljinds)  the  descent  is  con- 
tinued, and  occasional  views  of  the  Cobequid  Bay  are  given  as  the  train 
passes  across  Onslow  to  Truro.  The  landscape  now  becomes  more  pleas- 
ing and  thickly  settled. 


TRURO. 


Jiuute  17.       81 


•,  which 
ng  set- 
;  is  coll- 
ie train 
pleas- 


Tmro  {Parlcer  House;  Prince  of  Wales  Hotel ;  Victoria)  is  a  wealthy 
and  prosperous  town  of  over  4,000  inhiihitants,  and  occupies  a  ijlensaut 
situation  2  M.  from  tlie  liead  of  Cohcqnid  Buy  (an  arm  of  the  Basin  of 
Miuas).  Tiic  level  site  of  the  town  is  nearl\  surrounded  by  an  amphi- 
theatre of  gracefully  rounded  hills,  and  on  the  \V.  are  the  old  diked 
meadows  of  the  Acadian  era.  Truro  is  the  capital  of  Colchester  County 
and  the  seat  of  the  Provincial  Normal  School.  Fishing  and  shipbuihling 
are  carried  on  here,  and  there  are  large  and  growing  manufactures,  in- 
cluding boots  and  shoes,  woollens,  and  iron-wares.  The  neighboring 
county  has  valuable  farming-lands,  and  contains  several  iron-mines. 

Truro  was  settled  at  an  early  date  by  the  Acadian  French,  and  after  their  expul- 
sion from  Nova  Scotia  was  occupied  by  Scotch-Irish  from  New  Hampshire  In 
1761  a  large  number  of  disbanded  Irish  troops  settled  here,  and  engaged  in  the 
peaceful  pursuits  of  agriculture. 

A  road  runs  W.  from  Truro  between  the  Cobequid  Mts.  and  the  Basin  of  Minas, 
passing  Masstown  (10  M  );  Folly  Village  (14  M.),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Folly  River; 
Great  Village  (18  M.),  a  place  of  (iOO  inhabitants  ;  Highland  Village  (21  M.)  ;  Port 
au  Pique  (23  M.) ;  Bass  River  (27  M.) ;  Upper  Economy  (28  M.) ;  and  Five  Islands 
(45  M.)-     (See  Route  22.)    The  stages  run  from  Debort  station. 

Stages  run  daily  to  Clifton,  Black  Rock,  and  Maitland,  on  Cobequid  Bay,  and 
N.  E.  to  Karl  ton  and  W.  Branch  River  Jolin. 

Truro  is  ttie  point  of  departure  lor  the  I'ictou  Branch  of  the  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way (see  Route  31). 

The  North  Shore  of  Nova  Scotia. 

Stages  run  from  various  stations  to  the  North  Shore,  —  from  Truro  to  Tatama- 
gouche,  etc.  ;  from  Wentwortu  for  Wallace,  Pugwash,  Tatamagouclie,  juid  .New 
Annan ;  from  Greenville  to  Wailuce  and  Wallace  Bridge  ;  from  Thomson  to  Pug- 
wash, daily.  The  new  railway  from  Oxford  makes  tue  North-Shore  ports  more 
accessible  than  by  the  old  stage-routes. 

In  passing  from  Truro  to  Tatamagouclie  the  road  crosses  the  Cobequid 
Mts.  and  descends  through  a  thinly  settled  region  to  the  N.  Tatamagoucfie 
(two  inns)  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  largo  harbor  which  opens  on  the 
Northumberland  Strait,  and  has  about  1,500  inhai)itants.  Some  ship- 
building is  done  here,  and  there  are  freestone  quarries  in  the  vicinity. 
6  M.  to  the  E.  is  the  large  village  of  Bride  Harbor,  and  6  M.  farther  E., 
also  on  the  Tatamagouche  Bay,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  River  John,  is 
the  shipbuilding  settlement  of  /^rer  John,  which  was  founded  by  Swiss 
Protestants  in  1763.  It  is  20  M.  from  this  point  to  Pictou,  and  the  inter- 
vening coast  is  occupied  by  colonists  from  the  Hebrides. 

Blair's  stage  runs  W.  from  Tatamagouche  to  Wallace  (two  inns),  a  town 
of  2,600  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  deep  waters  of  Wallace  Harbor  (for- 
merly called  Remsheg).  Plaster,  lime,  and  freestone  are  found  here  in 
large  quantities,  and  the  latter  is  being  quarried  by  several  companies. 
The  Provincial  Building  at  Halifax  was  mnde  of  Wallace  stone.  To  the 
N.  E  ,  beyond  the  llglitb.ouse  on  Mullin  Point,  is  the  marine  hamlet  of  Fox 
Harbor,  whose  original  settlers  came  from  the  Hebrides.  Piujwash  (smnll 
inn)  is  10  M.  beyond  Wallace,  and  is  a  flourishing  port  with  about  3,300 


h 


82       Route  17. 


GOLD  MIXES. 


m 


li  wt 


inhiibitants.  The  harbor,  thou^jjh  difficult  of  iiccess,  is  deep  nnd  well  shel- 
tered, and  has  several  shii)-yards  on  its  shores.  The  chief  exports  of  Pug- 
wash  are  deals  and  lumber,  freestone,  lime,  and  plaster. 


The  Iliilifiix  train  runs  S.  from  Truro  to  Broohjidd,  whence  hay  nnd 
lumber  are  oxf)orte(l,  and  then  to  Stewidcke,  which  is  3  M.  from  the  pretty 
farming  village  of  the  same  name,  on  the  Stewiacko  Kiver,  Tlie  next  sta- 
tion is  Shiibenacadle  (International  Hotel),  a  busy  little  manufacturing 
village  on  the  river  of  the  same  name. 

Daily  stufjos  desrond  the  valley  of  the  Shubenncadie  for  18  M.  to  the  N.  to  the 
town  of  Maitlavil  (two  inns),  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  (see  Route  22)  Stages  also 
run  S.  K.  (Tuesday  and  Thursday)  to  (lay's  River  (7  M.),  day's  River  Road  (14  M  ), 
Middle  Musquodoboit  (21  51  ),  Upper  Musquodoboit  (25  M.),  Melrose,  Uuysborouf?h, 
and  Port  Mulgnive,  on  the  Strait  of  Canso.  (iold  was  discovered  near  Gay's  River 
in  18(32,  in  the  ewngloinerate  roek  of  the  great  ridge  ealled  tiie  Roar's  Bark;  whieh 
extends  for  60  M.  through  the  inland  towns.  It  nearly  resembles  the  alluvial  de- 
posits found  in  the  placer-diggings  of  California,  and  the  stream-washings  have 
yielded  as  high  as  an  ounce  per  man  daily.  Sdentifie  mining  was  begun  in  18f'3, 
but  has  given  only  light  returns.  Middle  Musqundoboit  is  a  farming-town  with 
about  1,0UU  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  S.  of  the  lioar's  Back  ri  ge,  42  M.  from 
Halifax.  Upper  Musquodoboit  is  about  the  same  size,  and  beyond  that  point  the 
stages  traverse  a  dreary  and  thinly  settled  district  for  several  leagues,  to  Melrose. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  S.  W.  to  Elmsdale,  a  village  near  the  Shuben- 
acadie  River,  engaged  in  making  leather  and  carriages.  luificld  is  the 
seat  of  a  large  pottery.  7  M.  N.  W.  are  the  Renfrew  Gold-Mines,  where 
gold-bearing  quartz  was  discovered  in  1861.  Much  money  and  labor  were 
at  first  wasted  by  inexperienced  miners,  but  of  late  years  the  lodes  have 
been  worked  systematically,  and  arc  considered  among  the  most  valuable 
in  Nova  Scotia.  The  average  yield  is  16  pennyweights  of  gold  to  a  ton  of 
quartz,  and  in  1869  these  mines  yielded  3,097  ounces  of  the  precious  metal, 
valued  at  $61,490.  The  Oldham  Mines  are  3^  M.  S.  of  Enfield,  and  are 
in  a  deep  narrow  valley,  along  whose  bottom  shafts  have  been  sunk  to 
reach  the  auriferous  quartz.  Between  1861  and  1869,  9,254  ounces  of  gold 
were  sent  from  the  Oldham  diggings.  In  188a  1,500  tons  of  quarts  M'ere 
crushed,  yielding  over  3,000  ounces  of  gold. 

Soon  after  leaving  Enfield  the  train  passes  along  the  S.  E.  shore  of  Grand 
Lake,  which  is  8  M.  long  by  1-2  M.  \\\Ae.  It  crosses  the  outlet  stream, 
runs  around  Long  Lake,  and  intersects  the  Windsor  Branch  Railway  at 
Windsor  Junction.  Station,  Rocl'ij  Lake^  on  the  lake  of  the  same  name, 
where  large  quantities  of  ice  are  cut  by  the  Nova-Scotia  Ice  Company,  for 
exportation  to  the  United  States.  3  M.  N.  E.  of  this  station  are  the  Waver- 
ley  Gol,d-3fines,  where  the  gold  is  found  in  barrel-quartz,  so  named  because 
it  appears  in  cylindrical  masses  like  barrels  laid  side  by  side,  or  like  a 
corduroy-road.  At  its  first  discovery  all  the  floating  population  of  Halifax 
flocked  out  here,  but  they  failed  to  better  their  condition,  and  the  total 
yield  between  1861  and  1869  was  only  about  1,600  ounces.  Waverley  vil- 
lage is  picturesquely  situated  in  a  narrow  valley  between  two  lakes,  and 
has  about  600  inhabitants. 


ANNAPOLIS   ROUTE. 


Route  18.      83 


After  crossiiiff  Rockj'  Lake  the  train  soon  reaches  the  pretty  village  of 
Bedford  {Seaview  House),  on  the  shores  of  the  beautiful  Btd/ord  Basin, 
and  follows  their  graceful  curves  for  several  miles.  On  the  1.  are  tine 
views  of  the  hills  beyond  the  blue  water.  There  is  a  Dominion  tish-hatchery 
at  Bedford. 

Halifax,  see  page  93. 


18.    St.  John  to  Halifax,  by  the  Annapolis  Valley, 

This  Is  the  pleasantest  route,  during  calm  weather,  between  the  chief  cities  of  the 
Marioime  Provinces.  After  a  pas.sige  of  about  4  hours  in  the  steamer,  across  the  Bay 
of  Fundy,  the  pretty  scenery  of  tlie  Annapolis  Biisin  is  traversed,  and  at  Annapolis 
the  passenger  takes  the  train  of  the  Windsor  &  Annapolis  Railway,  which  ruua 
through  to  Halifax.  The  line  traverses  a  comparatively  rich  and  picturesque  coun- 
try, al)oun(ling  in  historic  and  poetic  associations  of  the  deepest  interest. 

Tiie  distance  between  St.  .John  and  Halifax  by  this  route  is  84  M.  less  than  by  the 
Intercolonial  Kuilway  ;  but  the  time  on  both  routes  is  about  the  same,  on  account 
vi  'hv  d«*ia\  in  cos-inii  the  Hay  <if  Kmdv.  Th"  steamer  leaves  St.  John  at  7  a  m., 
on  Mniidiiy,  Wednesday,  Thnr-day,  Fridiiv.  and  Satnrdav,  connecting  with  the  ex- 
pre«-<  trains  which  leave  Annapolis*  at  1.10  p.  m.  and  arrive  at  Halifax  at  about  7 
p.  M.  Express  trains  leave  ILilifax  at  8  15  .\.  M  on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  Friday, 
and  Saturday,  coViiieoting  with  the  steamer  which  leaves  Aunapclis  at  1.30  p.  M. 
and  arrives  at  St.  John  at  6  P.  m. 

Fnns—.-^i.  .iuliu  to  Haiifa.x,  latclaBS,  $4.50;  2d  class,  iSJJ.SO;  to  Digby,  SI  50; 
to  Aniripolis  S2.  Passengers  for  Halifix  dine  on  t  le  steamer  ;ind  take  tea  at  Keut- 
ville  (,15  minutes);  those  for  St.  John  lunch  at  Kentville  (10  minutes)  an  '  din » 
on  the  boat.  There  are  two  through  trains  each  way  daily  between  Halifax  and 
Annnpolis. 

Oinitanceg.  —  St.  John  to  Digby,  43  M. ;  Annapolis,  61 :  Round  Ilill.  68 ;  Bridge- 
town,  75;  Paradise,  80;  Lawrencetown ,  83;  Middleton,  89;  Wilmot,  92 ;  Kingston, 
96\  Morden  Road,  101;  Aylesford,  103;  Berwick,  108;  Waterville,  111 ;  Cambridge, 
113;  Coldbrook,  115;  Kentville,  120;  Port  Williams,  125;  Wolfville,  127;  Grand 
Pre,  130;  Ilorton  Landing,  131;  Avonport,  133;  Ilantsport,  138;  Mount  Deuson, 
140;  Falmouth,  143;  Windsor,  145 ;  Three-Mile  Plains,  148;  Newport,  151  ;  Ellcrs- 
house,  154;  Stillwater,  157;  Mount  Uniacke,  1G4  ;  Beaver  Hank,  174  ;  Windsor  Junc- 
tion, 177 ;  Rocky  Lake,  179 ;  Bedford,  182;       Rockingham,    188  ;  llilifax,  19a. 

The  steamer  leaves  her  wharf  at  Reed's  Point,  St.  John,  and 

soon  passes  the  heights  and  spires  of  Carleton  on  the  r.  and  the  lighthouse 
on  Partridge  Island  on  the  1.,  beyond  which  Mi.^peck  Point  is  seen.  Cape 
Spencer  is  then  opened  to  the  E.,  on  the  New  Brunswick  coast,  and  the 
steamer  sweeps  out  into  the  open  bay.  In  ordinary  summer  weather  the 
bay  is  quiet,  except  for  a  light  tidal  swell,  and  will  not  affect  the  traveller. 

Soon  after  passing  Partridge  Island,  the  dark  ridge  of  the  North  Mt.  is 
seen  in  advance,  cleft  by  the  gap  called  the  *  Digby  Gut,  which,  in  the 
earlier  days,  was  known  as  St.  George's  Channel.  The  course  is  laid 
straight  for  this  pass,  and  the  steamer  runs  in  by  Point  Prim,  with  its  fog- 
w!iistle  and  fixed  light  (visible  13  M.),  and  enters  the  tide-swept  defile, 
with  bold  and  mountainous  bluffs  rising  on  either  side.  The  shores  on 
the  1.  are  610  feet  high,  and  on  the  r.  400-500  ft.,  between  which  the  tide 


^f   n    u..,^fc 


.^.: i,___j    ~._..J   5-.. 


rushes  with  a  velocity  ot  u  knots  an  nour,  making  oroaa  ana  poweriui 
swirls  and  eddies  over  12  -25  fathoms  of  water.  After  running  for  about 
2  M.  through  this  passage,  the  steamer  enters  the  Annapolis  Basin,  and 
runs  S.  by  E.  3  M.  to  Digby, 


)i 


84 


Route  IS. 


ANNAPOLIS  BASIN. 


»i'»  y. 


"The  White  houses  of  DIgby,  scattered  over  the  downs  like  a  flock  of  washed 
sheep,  had  a  sniiiewhat  chilly  a.ipvct,  it  in  truu,  and  iiiuUe  u.s  lou^  tor  tite  8uu  ou 
theui  Hut  as  I  tliiiik  of  it  now,  I  prefer  to  liiivo  tlic  town  atut  tlie  pretty  hillsided 
that  stjind  about  tlie  basin  in  the  ligiit  wo  saw  tlu-ni ;  and  espeeiiilly  do  1  like  to 
recall  the  hi;jli  wooden  pier  at  Di(jby,  donerteil  by  the  tide  and  so  blown  by  the  wind 
that  tile  i)assenKt'rs  wlio  came  out  on  it,  with  tlieir  tossing  drapery,  brought  to  miud 
the  windy  Dutcli  harbors  that  Backhiiyseu  painted."    (v\  ahn.k's  Ikultltelc.) 

Digby  [iJdhy's  Ilotvl)  is  a  nuiritiine  village  of  about  1,800  inhabitants, 
with  G  churches,  2  weekly  pajjors,  and  .'iO  shops,  situated  on  the  S.  W. 
shore  of  the  Annapolis  Basin,  and  engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  the  fish- 
eries of  haddock,  mackerel,  and  herring.  The  Digby  herring  are  famous  for 
their  delicacy,  and  are  known  in  the  Provinces  as  "Digby  chickens." 
Porpoises,  also,  are  caught  in  the  swift  currents  of  the  Digby  Gut.  Quito 
recently  Digby  has  become  well  known  as  a  summer-resort.  The  fogs 
which  hang  like  a  pall  over  the  Bay  of  Fundy  are  not  encountered  here, 
and  the  lovely  scener}'  hereabouts,  and  boating,  bathing,  and  lishing  afford 
sufficient  amusement.  The  comfortable  Myrtle  Home,  near  the  water, 
amid  three  acres  of  fruit-orchards,  is  crowded  all  summer  by  Americans 
and  Canadians.  There  is  a  steamship  line  from  Boston  to  Digby  direct. 
A  French  fort  stood  here  in  the  early  days;  and  in  1783  the  township  was 
granted  to  the  ex-American  Loyalists.  A  railroad  runs  to  Yarmouth  and 
to  Annapolis. 

'•  That  portion  of  Acadia  at  which  the  voyagers  had  now  arrived  is  distingnished 
by  the  beauty  of  its  scenery.  The  coast  along  which  they  liad  previously  sailed  is 
comparatively  rugged.  But  on  entering  the  Ba,sin  the  scene  is  changed  many  of  the 
peculiar  elements  which  lend  a  charm  to  the  Acadian  landscape  being  found  in  har- 
monious combination.  Towards  the  east,  islands  repose  on  the  bosom  of  the  deep, 
their  forms  Hieing  vividly  mirrored  on  its  placid  surface,  and  from  which  canoes  may 
be  seen  darting  towards  the  mainland,  with  their  paddles  fitfully  fia.shing  in  the 
sunlight.  In  the  distance  are  graceful,  undulating  hills,  thickly  clad,  from  base  to 
summit,  with  birch,  maple,  hemlock,  and  spruce  woods,  constituting  an  admirable 
background  to  the  whole  scene."    (Campbeu/s  History  of  Nova  Scotia.) 

The  noble  *  Annapolis  Basin  gradually  decreases  from  a  width  of  nearly 
h  M.  to  1  M.,  and  is  hemmed  in  between  the  converging  ridges  of  the 
North  Ml  and  the  South  Mt.  The  former  ranee  has  a  height  of  6  -  700  ft., 
and  is  bold  and  mountainous  in  its  outlines.  The  South  Mt.  is  from  300 
to  500  ft.  high,  and  its  lines  of  ascent  are  more  gradual.  The  North  Mt. 
was  once  insulated,  and  the  tides  flowed  Ihroutrh  the  whole  valley,  until  a 
shoal  at  the  confluence  of  the  Blomidon  and  Digby  currents  became  a  bar, 
and  this  in  time  became  dry  land  and  a  water-shed. 

Between  the  head  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  slopes  of  the  Annapolis  Bnsin 
are  the  rarely  visited  and  sequestered  hill-ranges  called  the  Blue  Mvun- 
tahis.  "  The  Indians  are  said  to  have  formerly  resorted  periodically  to 
groves  among  these  wilds,  which  they  considered  as  consecrated  places, 
in  order  to  offer  sacrifices  to  their  gods." 

'•  We  were  sailing  along  the  gracefully  moulded  and  tree-covered  hills  of  the  An- 
napolis Basin,  and  up  the  mildly  picture.^^que  river  of  that  name,  and  we  were  about 
to  enter  what  the  provincials  all  enthusiastically  call  the  Garden  of  Nova  Scotia. 
....  It  is,  —  this  valley  of  Annapolis,  —  in  the  belief  of  provincials,  the  most  beau- 
tiful and  blooming  place  in  the  world,  with  a  soil  and  chmate  kind  to  the  husband- 


ANNAPOLIS  ROYAL. 


Route  18.       85 


nearly 

of  the 

700  ft., 

•om  300 

rth  Mt. 

until  a 

e  a  bar, 


man,  a  land  of  fair  meadows,  orphards,  and  vinca It  was  not  until  wo  had 

travcllod  ovtT  the  rost  of  t\w  country  tliat  wo  saw  tlu'  approjuiatiMH'SH  of  the 
dt'wignatiori.  Tlio  I'xpliitiutioii  is,  tliat  not  so  much  Is  required  of  a  garden  here  as 
in  some  otlier  jmrts  of  the  world." 

Soon  after  leaviiip:  Difjby,  Hear  Island  is  seen  in-shore  on  the  r.,  in  front 
of  the  little  port  of  Bear  Hirer  (inn),  wliicli  has  a  foiuulrv,  tanneries,  and 
eaw-niills.  Iron  and  <fold  are  foiuid  in  the  vicinity,  and  lumber  and  cord- 
wood  are  exported  hence  to  the  United  States  and  the  West  Indies.  A  few 
miles  beyond,  and  also  on  the  S.  shore,  is  the  hamlet  of  Clementsport  (two 
inns),  where  large  iron-works  were  formerly  established,  in  coiuiectioa 
Avith  the  ore-beds  to  the  S.  Roads  lead  thence  to  the  S.  W.  in  10-12  M. 
to  the  romantic  districts  of  the  Blue  Mts.  and  the  upper  Liverpool  Lakes 
(see  Route  27),  at  whose  entrance  is  the  rural  village  of  Clementsvnle. 

8-10  M.  beyond  Dlgby  the  steamer  passes  Goat  Island,  of  which 
Lescarbot  writes,  in  Les  Muses  de  la  Nonvelle  France  (1609) : 

"  Adieu  inon  doux  plaisir  fonteines  et  niisseaiix. 
Qui  les  viiux  et  les  niouts  urrousez  de  vos  euux. 
I'ouiruy-je  t'outjlier,  belle  lie  I'oKtlere 
Iliclie  nouneur  de  ce  lieu  et  de  cette  riviere  ?" 

In  1707  the  British  frigate  Annibal  and  two  brigantines  were  sailing  up  the  Basin  to 
attack  Annapolis,  when  they  met  such  a  sharp  volley  from  the  He  aux  Chovrus  that 
they  were  forced  to  retire  in  confusion.  The  French  name  of  the  island  was  Angli- 
cized by  translation.  On  the  point  near  this  island  was  the  first  settlement  of  the 
French  in  Nova  Scotia.  A  fort  was  erected  here  by  the  Scottish  pioneers,  and  was 
restored  to  France  by  the  Treaty  of  St.  (Jermain,  after  which  it  was  garrisoned  by 
French  troops.  In  1827  a  stone  block  was  found  on  the  point,  inscribed  with  a 
square  and  compass  and  the  date  "  lf5()6."  In  May,  1782,  there  was  a  naval  combat 
off  Goat  Island,  in  which  an  American  war-brig  of  8  guns  was  captured  by  11.  M.  S. 
Buckram . 

Above  the  island  the  Basin  is  about  1  M.  wide,  and  is  bordered  by  farm- 
streets.  To  the  N.  K.,  across  a  low  alluvial  point,  are  seen  the  spires  and 
ramparts  of  Annapolis  Royal,  where  the  steamer  soon  reaches  her  wharf, 
after  passing  under  the  massive  walls  of  the  old  fortress.  There  are  sev- 
eral small  inns  here,  the  Dominion,  Commercial,  American,  Clifton,  Per- 
kins, Hillsdale,  and  Oakland  Farm,  etc.,  and  Mrs.  Grassie's  summer  board- 
in!»'-house.  Their  rates  are  $5-6  a  week,  and  board  can  be  obtained  on 
adjacent  farms  for  $.3-5  a  week.  A  railway  runs  from  Annapolis  to  Clem- 
entsport,  8.^  M. ;  Victoria  Bridge,  13J;  Digby,  20^;  and  thence  to  Yar- 
mouth, 874.  Stages  run  S.  E.  78  M.  to  Liverpool  (see  Route  27).  Steam- 
boats leave  Annapolis  for  Boston,  direct,  every  Tuesday  and  Friday  after- 
noon; and  another  steamboat  makes  daily  trips  between  Annapolis  and 
Digby,  connecting  with  the  Western-Counties  Railwaj'. 

Annapolis  Boyal,  the  capital  of  Annapoli?  County,  is  a  maritime  and 
agricultural  village,  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Annapolis  Basin,  and  con- 
tains 1,200  inhabitants.  It  is  frequented  by  summer  visitors  on  account 
of  its  pleasant  environs  and  tempered  .sea-air-,  and  the  opportunities  for  salt- 
water fishing  in  the  Basin,  and  trouting  among  the  hills  to  the  S.  The 
chief  object  of  interest  to  the  passing  traveller  is  the  *  old  fortress  which 
fronts  the  Basin  and  covers  28  acres  with  its  ramparts  and  outworks.  It 
is  entered  by  the  way  of  the  fields  opposite  Perkins's  Hotel.  The  works 
are  disarmed,  and  have  remained  unoccupied  for  many  years.    One  of  the 


( 


86       Route  18. 


ANNAPOLIS   ROYAL. 


lnf»t  oocnpntlfms  wns  tliut  of  tlio  Rillc  Rrifjado,  in  IPfiO;  but  the  post  wns 
iil)tiii<l()iH>(|  sdoii  nftrr,  on  iicconiit  <il'  the  ininicrons  imkI  sncccssfiil  deser- 
tions wiii(!h  tliiiuu'd  till'  Tiinks  of  the  <:!irris<»n.  IJiit  when  Caniidii  passed 
into  a  state  of  semi-independence  in  IHt;",  tliis  fdrtress  was  one  of  the  few 
domains  reserved  to  the  British  Crown.  Tlie  iinier  fort  is  entered  by  an 
aneient  arcliway  whicli  fronts  towards  tlie  Iliisin,  jrivinj;  |)nssago  to  the 
piU'ade-o;r()nnd,  on  which  are  tlie  (]n!iint  old  Kii;_di<h  barracks,  with  steep 
roofs  and  great  chimneys.  In  tlic  S.  K.  bastion  is  the  maga/ine,  witli  u 
vaulted  roof  of  msisonry,  near  wliicli  are  the  foundations  of  tlie  Krench 
barracks.  From  the  parapet  on  this  side  are  overlooked  the  landward  out- 
works and  the  lines  of  tlie  old  Hessian  and  Waldecker  settlements  towards 
Clementsport.  On  the  hillside  beyond  the  marsh  is  seen  an  ancient  house 
of  the  era  of  the  French  occui)ation,  the  only  one  now  standing  in  the  val- 
ley. In  the  bastion  towards  the  river  is  a  vaulted  room,  whence  a  passage 
leads  down  to  the  French  garrison-wharf;  but  the  arched  way  has  fallen 
in,  and  the  wharf  is  now  but  a  shapeless  pile  of  stones.  The  *  view  from 
this  angle  of  the  works  is  very  beautiful,  including  the  villages  of  Annapo- 
lis Royal  niid  Granville,  the  sombre  heights  of  the  North  and  South  Mts., 
and  the  Basin  for  many  miles,  with  Goat  Island  in  the  distance. 

The  road  which  leads  by  the  fortress  passes  the  old  garrison  cemetery, 
St.  Liike's  Church,  the  court-house  and  county  academy,  and  many 
quaint  and  antiquated  mansions.  A  ferry  crosses  to  Granville,  a  little 
shipbuilding  village,  with  700  inhabitants.  A  road  leads  hence  across  the 
North  ]Mt.  ill  4-5  M.,  to  Il'dhbum  and  LtltchJitUL 

"  Annapolis  Royal  is  a  picturesque  little  town,  almost  surroimded  by  water,  at 
the  head  of  the  Annapolis  Basin  On  both  sides  of  tlid  Ha.-in  rit^e  nuiuntains  whose 
background  of  vegetation  lends  a  peculiar  charm  to  the  landscape.  Fruit  of 
almost  every  kind  common  to  this  continent  may  he  found  here  in  its  season.  .  East- 
ward you  may  proceed  by  railway  to  the  scene  of  Longfellow's  great  poem  of  '  Evange- 
line '  tliiough  a  perpetual  scene  of  orchards,  dike  lands,  and  villages,  skirted  on 
both  sides  by  dreamy  mountains,  till  you  reiich  the  grand  expanse  of  the  Hasin  of 
Jlinas,  with  Blomidon,  the  abode  of  sea-nymphs,  holding  eternal  guard  in  the 
distance.  Annapolis  Royal  and  Granville  Ferry  offer  special  sanitary  privileges  to 
the  weary,  the  invalid,  and  the  pleasure-seeUer  ;  bathing,  trouting,  hunting,  boat- 
ing, picnicking, are  all  enjoyed  in  turn  From  the  mountain  slojies,  whither  parties 
go  for  a  day's  enjoyment,  tlie  prospect  is  unrivalled,  and  the  air  invigorating.  The 
thermometer  rarely  ri.ses  above  !»0  degrees  in  the  day,  while  the  night  air  is  cool 
enough  for  blankets  and  light  overcoats.  A  moonlight  excursion  on  the  Basin 
is  something  to  remember  for  a  lifetime." 


The  Basin  of  Annapolis  was  first  entered  in  1604  by  De  Monts's  fleet,  exploring  the 
shores  of  Acadie ;  and  the  beauty  of  the  scene  .«.o  impressed  the  Baron  de  Fou- 
trincourt  that  he  secured  a  grant  here,  and  named  it  Port  Royal.  After  the  failure 
of  the  colony  at  St.  Croix  Island,  the  people  moved  to  this  point,  bringing  all 
their  sto-es  and  supplies,  and  .settled  on  the  N.  side  of  the  river.  In  .lulv,  1(50(5, 
Lcscarbot  and  another  company  of  Frenchiren  joined  the  new  .'settlement,  and 
conducted  improvements  of  the  land,  while  I'outrincourt  and  Champlain  exjilored 
the  >hissachusetts  coast  4011  Indians  had  been  gathered  by  the  sagnuiore  Member- 
ton  in  r.  stockaded  village  n<>nr  the  fort,  and  all  went  on  well  and  favorably  until  De 
JMonts's  grant  was  annulled  by  the  King  of  France,  and  then  the  colony  was  aban- 
doned. 


ANNAPOLIS  ROYAL. 


Route  IS.       87 


Four  VParH  lator  tho  hravo  Huron  «1«  Poutrliicourt  l«ff  Iiis  estatcH  In  Chanipai^e, 
witli  II  ii«'c|)  nirKtiof  sumtllt's,  <l»'M»'iitlf(l  the  rivers  Aulu*  and  Seine,  and  Mailed  out 
fntni  Dieppe  (Kei>.  lit;,  ItilO)  On  iirrivinj;  at  Port  Ko.val,  even  tiling  was  tcjuiid  iw 
when  lelt:  and  tlie  woik  of  proselyfinK  tlx-  Indians  was  at  one*- entered  on.  Meni- 
licrton  and  liis  iiilie  were  eonverteii,  l)apti/,ed,  and  fea.sted,  amid  salutes  from  tlio 
cnnnon  and  tiie  eliantiiiK  of  tliu  Te  Dtuin  ;  and  uuuierouH  utiier  foivHt-claiiH  Houn 
followed  tlio  saun'  course. 

I'outrincourt  wnx  a  (Jalliean  Catiiolie,  and  hated  tho  JoHuitH,  but  wax  foreed  to 
talte  out  two  of  them  to  liis  now  domain.  Tlie.v  assumed  a  liij^h  authority  there, 
hut  were  sternly  relinked  hy  the  llaron,  who  said,  "  It  is  my  part  to  rule  you  on 
earth,  and  yours  only  to  nuiihHue  to  heaven."  They  threatened  to  lay  Port  Koyal 
inider  interdict ;  and  Pontrincourt's  son  and  succesMir  .so  jfreatly  resented  this  that 
they  left  the  colony  on  a  mission  ship  sent  out  hy  the  Marchioness  de  (Juercheville, 
ami  founded  St.  Sauveur,  on  the  island  of  Mount  Desert.  In  Itillj,  after  tiie  Vir- 
ginians under  ('apt.  Ar^all  liad  destroyed  St.  Sauveur,  tins  ven>,'eful  .Jesuits  jiiloted 
their  Heet  to  Port  Koval,  which  was  completely  demolished.  Poutrincourt  can'O 
out  in  lfil4  only  to  lind  liis  colony  in  ruins,  and  tho  >'emiiant  of  the  people  wanderinj^ 
in  tlie  forest ;  and  was  so  disheartened  that  he  returned  to  Fran<'e,  wheix>  he  was 
killed,  the  next  year,  in  tho  hattlo  of  Mcry-sur-Seine. 

It  is  a  memorable  fact  that  these  attacks  of  tho  Virjfinians  on  Moinit  Ih'sert  and 
Port  Royal  were  the  very  conunoncemont  of  tho  wars  between  (Jrcat  Britain  and 
France  in  North  America,  "  w  hich  .scarcely  ever  entirely  ceiused  until,  at  tho  cost  of 
infinite  blood  and  treasure.  Franco  was  Htripjied  of  all  her  possessious  in  America  by 
the  |)eace  of  17b.'J.'' 

Between  IB'iO  and  1030  an  ophenicral  Scottish  colony  was  located  at  Port  Royal, 
and  was  succeeded  by  the  FnMich.  In  lt)'28  tlie  place  was  captured  by  Sir  David 
Kirk,  with  an  Kiif^lish  Hoot,  and  was  left  in  ruins.  In  1G.S4  it  was  granted  to  (-laude 
de  llazilly,  "  Seii^neur  de  Ilazilly,  des  Kaux  .Mesles  et  Cuon,en  Anjou,"  who  after- 
wards became  commandant  of  Oleron  and  vice-admiral  of  France.  Ho  was  a  bold 
naval  olHcer,  related  to  Cardinal  Richelieu  ;  anil  his  brother  Isaac  conniianded  ut 
Laliave  (.see  Route  25),  His  lieutenants  were  D'Aulnay  Charni.say  and  Charles  do  la 
Tour,  and  he  transferred  all  his  Acadian  estates  to  the  former,  in  1(142,  after  which 
bej^in  the  feudal  wars  between  tho.se  two  nobles  (se<^  pa^jo  I'J).  Several  flei'ts  sailed 
from  Port  Royal  to  attack  I.ia  Tour,  at  St,  John  ;  and  a  IJoston  fleet,  in  alliance  witli 
La  Tour,  as.sailed  Port  Royal. 

In  l(ju4  the  town  was  uii'ler  the  rule  of  Knimanuel  le  BorRne,  a  merchant  of  La 
Rochelle,  who  had  succeeded  to  D'Aulnay's  estates,  by  the  aid  of  L'e.sar,  Duke  of 
Vondilme,  on  account  of  debts  due  to  him  from  t'le  Acadian  lord.  iiatcM*  in  the 
name  year  the  fortre.ss  was  taken  by  a  Heet  sent  out  by  Oliver  Cromwell,  but  the  in- 
liabirants  of  the  valley  were  not  disturbed. 

By  tljo  census  of  liiTl  there  were  3'il  souls  at  Port  Royal,  with  over  1,000  head  of 
live-stock  and  3f54  acres  of  <'ultivatod  land  In  1(J84  the  fishintif-Heet  of  tlie  port  was 
captured  by  Enj^lish  "  corsairs  "  ;  and  in  ItiSG  there  were  tJ22  souls  in  the  town.     In 

1  i'JO  the  fort  contained  18  cannon  and  8(3  soldiers,  and  was  taken  and  pillaged  by 
Sir  William  Phipps,  who  sailed  from  Boston  with  3  war-vessels  and  700  men.  A 
few  months  later  it  was  plundered  by  corsairs  from  tlie  West  Indies,  and  in  1(391 
the  Chevalier  de  Villebon  took  the  fort  in  the  name  of  Franco.  Baron  La  Ilontan 
wrote:  "  Port  Royal,  the  capital,  or  tho  only  city  of  Acadia,  is  in  elTect  no  more 
than  a  little  paltry  town  tliat  is  somewliat  enlarged  .since  the  war  broke  out  in  1G89 
by  tlie  aoce.ssion  of  the  inhabitants  that  lived  near  Boston,  the  metropolitan  of  New 
England.  It  subsists  upon  the  traffic  of  the  skins  which  the  savages  bring  thither 
to  truck  for  European  goods."     In  tho  summer  of  1707  the  fortress  was  attacked  by 

2  regiments  and  a  small  Heet,  from  Boston,  and  siege  operations  were  commenced. 
An  attempt  at  storming  the  works  by  night  was  frustrated  by  M.  de  Suberca.so's 
vigilance  and  the  brisk  fire  of  the  French  artillery,  and  the  besiegers  wore  finally 
forceil  to  retire  with  severe  loss.  A  few  weeks  later  a  second  expedition  from  Jlassa- 
clxu.-<etts  attacked  tlio  works,  but  after  a  siege  of  16  days  tlieir  camps  were  stormed 
by  the  Baron  de  St.  Castiii  and  the  Chevalier  ih'  la  Boulardeiie,  and  the  feebly  led 
Americans  were  driven  on  board  their  ships.  Suberca.-e  then  enl;irged  tlie  fortress, 
made  arrangements  to  run  off  slaves  from  Boston,  and  planned  to  capture  IMiode 
Island,  "which  is  inhabited  by  rich  Quakers,  and  is  the  resort  of  rascals  and  even 
pirates." 

In  the  autumn  of  1710  the  frigates  Dragon,  Clipster,  Falmouth,  Leostafe,  Fevers- 
ham,  Star,  aud  Province,  with  20  transports,  left  Bostou  uud  sailed  to  Port  Royal. 


88      li  'uU  J' 


HB  ANNAPOLIS  VALLEY. 


TlM'r«>  VII  «)ninento«,  "^  Maswrhuwlfi*,  2  fro«;  fhe  re«f  of  Nt'w  Knirlnnil,  nnd  1 

(if  llovul  M  ,,  iiii'K.  AfU-r  nlit-  I'n'rrlitn  of  niortai  hnfC'-rU's,  ^fvcrul  iIii\h  wt-ii' 8|u'iit 
ill  lioiiiVxi'^MiiK  I(m'  f«irt  tVniu  flio  t1«'t'(  »inl  Uw  h1«hc  lii  >  >>ut  the  (li*-  tV'  in  the  rain- 
piirfr  "  •*     i»'pt  u|i  stciidilv  until  tho  (riirri-oii  wen-  on  Hie  wvH'  ofHtiirviitiuii  ;  j^hIjit- 

„.     f^^^      t|rr<-llil<M-«>il    his    f^lr(•^•^  (■''>><   Illl'll),    wlio    Wt'l*'   slliplu'il    'ill    t(i    I'lailCC,   Ulill 

\l     ■  'Noil  1  ll!nii;«'(l   tlic  tiiimc 


raw 


......,,   ......  .....   .-,,.,.,....  ,,,  ..,,., 

son  K  IMHiifid  the  tiiimc  ..i   I'orf  Koyiil  to  AnnaI'OL.s  Uuyal,,  Iti  honor  of 

(iUlHii         .     •',  tlM^ll  .-ot'lci^ll  (if  (iioiit   hi  iflill 

111  I7ll,  <^'  H«»\v-Kii>r|ii(((|(«rs  frniii  tlic  (X.irriooii  »f*<^  cut  to  piiTcs  lit  TIIixkIv  Urook, 
1*2  M  up  tin  iJvi ,  „ihI  tiM'  f.  irtri'.MMWiis  tlii-n  iiiVf>tiil  l>.\  tin-  AcinUuii^  ami  MiciiiacM. 
For  iu'»rl.v40  .vt-ars  afr-'rwunls  Annnpoli!*  wan  almost  alwa.VH  in  a  state  of  >ii»'jrc,  lalim 
nicnnct'd  from  time  to  rr>n<>  by  tli*'  ilisalficttil  Acailiaiis  and  tluir  I'Mvap*  ailicr^.  In 
17H  tlic  nuii-coiiiliatants  were  scut  to  Hostoii  for  Haf«>t.v,and  In  .Iiil.v  of  that  _\oar  tlie 
fort  was  lu'lraniH-rt'd  liy  a  tone  of  t'lnatlc  (Jatliolics  under  the  Alihe  Laloutre  Klvo 
roiiipanies  of  Ma.-isacluisettH  troops  hooh  joined  the  pirrisoii,  and  the  liesiep-rs  were 
reinforced  by  French  rc;;ulars  from  lioni-bourpc-  The  Kie^:c  was  (ontiiiueil  for  nearly 
tliree  months,  but  (Jov  Mascarcne  showed  a  bold  front,  and  pro^l-ions  and  n.en 
came  ill  from  lioston.  The  town  was  destroyed  b\  the  artillery  of  the  fort  and  by 
lueendiary  sorties,  Hiiiee  it  served  to  slielter  the  liostile  rillemcn.    Soon  after  Diivivier 


,  I,  .»•!'»       •!. <<>>i«ii<ii       bill       ■(■'.'■111       •■■iiioiia.         •'iriit«a<«.       ■'■■•■>■«.• 

and  Laloutre  liad  retin-d,  two  Freiu  li  frijrates  entered  the  I'asin  and  captured  some 
l«liips  of  Massaciiusetts,  but  left  four  da\s  before  Tyrifi's  Boston  c(iuadroii  arrived. 
A  year  later,  I>e  Uaniezjiy  menaced  the  fort  with  TOO  men,  but  was  easily  beaten  off 
by  the  jrarrison,  aid«'d  by  the  frigates  Chistrr,  50,  and  S/iirlry,  20,  uliicli  were  1\  inj? 
In  tlie  liasin.  After  the  deportation  ot'tiio  Acadians,  AniiMjiolis  remained  in  peaie 
until  17HI,  when  two  American  war-vessels  ascended  the  Hasin  by  iiijrlit,  siirprisej 
und  captured  the  fortress  and  spiked  its  jriins,  and  plundered  every  house  iu  the 
town,  after  locking;  the  citizens  up  in  the  old  block-house. 


K  ^r 


The  Annapolis  Valley. 

This  pretty  district  haw  8u(Tered,  like  the  St.  Jolni  Hlver,  ft-om  the  absurdly  ex- 
trava^MUt  descriptions  of  its  local  mluiircrs,  and  its  I  ;  i-eciation  by  Mr.  Warner  (see 
pa^e  h4)  expn-sses  the  natural  reaction  wliicli  mus.  be  felt  by  travellers  (unless  tliey 
are  from  Newfoundland  or  Labnidor)  after  eon  pari nj:  'he  actual  valley  with  these 
hi}j:h-llown  i)iinetr\ rics.  A  recent  Provincial  writer  says:  ''The  route  of  tlie  A\  Ind- 
8or  &  Annapolis  Railway  lies  Ihroufrii  a  magnificent  farminjr-country  whose  lieauty 
is  so  great  tiiat  we  exhaust  tlie  Knglish  language  of  its  adjectives,  and  are  coniju'tled 
to  revert  to  the  quaint  old  French  wliich  was  spoken  by  the  early  Kttlers  oi  tliis 
Garden  of  Canada,  in  our  elforts  to  descril)e  it."  In  point  of  Ihct  the  Annaiiolis 
region  i.s  far  inferior  either  in  beauty  or  fertility  to  tlie  valleys  of  the  Nashua,  the 
Schuylkill,  the  Shenandoah,  and  scores  of  other  familiar  streams  which  have  lieeu 
described  without  effusion  and  without  impressing  the  service  of  alien  languages. 
The  Fklitor  walk'il  tlirough  a  considerable  portion  of  this  valley,  in  the  process  of  a 
closer  analysis  oi  Its  features,  and  found  a  tranquil  and  conin oiijilace  favn.ing- 
district,  devoid  of  nalient  points  of  interest,  and  occupied  by  an  imutricient  ■  >iil  i- 
tion,  among  wlio.se  lianilets  lie  found  unvarying  and  honest  hospitality  ami  l.'u  '- 
ness.  It  is  a  peaceful  rural  land,  hemmed  in  betweei.  '  igli  and  moiiotonoo  iiu^  , 
blooming  during  its  bri<f  summer,  and  will  afford  a  series  of  pretty  views  )  i  ■  |.'  j- 
ing  suggestions  to  the  traveller  whose  exiiectations  have  not  been  ^ai^ea  beyond 
bounds  by  the  exaggenited  praises  of  well-meaning,  but  injudicious  authors. 

It  is  claimed  that  the  ajiples  of  the  Annaiiolis  Valley  are  the  best  in  America,  and 
f)0<),<J(X(  barrels  are  exjtorted  yearly,  —  many  of  which  are  sold  in  the  cities  of  (Ireat 
lJrit:iin  The  chief  o*  oductions  of  the  district  are  hay,  cheese,  and  live-stock,  a  large 
proportion  of  which  if.      oorfed. 

The  Halifax  train  v;.':  ut  ♦roni  Annapolis  over  the  lowlands,  and  takes 
a  course  to  the  N.  E.,  !!!•!•  !ie  old  hij'hv,;  \.  Bridgetown  ( 6' ra«(/  Central) 
is  the  lirst  importanr  siatioij,  and  is  14  M.  from  Annapolis,  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  river.  It  has  ai)oiit  1,500  inliaiiitants,  4  churches, 
and  a  weekly  newspaper,  and  is  situated  in  a  district  of  apjile-orcliards 
and  r.ch  pastures.    Some  maiiufueturinji"  is  done  on  the  water-power  of 


WILMoT  SPRI>TOS. 


Rmite  18, 


89 


I,  nnd 
( i  roat 
large 


akes 
tral) 
lead 
■-•hes, 
ards 
ii'  of 


the  Annapolis  River  and  ilM  biiinchea;  and  the  surmundinK  country  it 
wt'll  populated,  and  is  reputed  to  l)o  uik*  of  the  hcHltliiur«t  diHirietx  in  Nova 
Seotia.  To  tlic  8.  is  liUu»hj  Uii  'ik,  where  a  (h'tuclniient  of  New-Kngland 
troops  was  massacred  by  the  I'lviuli  ami  Indians;  aixl  roads  h*ud  up  over 
the  South  Mt.  into  tin;  interior,  doited  \v  'li  snuill  h-nukas,  ihliahiti'd  l)y 
tlie  dtsci'ndants  t»i  old  s(ddiers.  M.iny  lur^»'  lakes  and  streams  tilled  with 
trout,  and  good  linnting-^ronitils  are  in  this  region. 

Pdrndna  (Huiatl  inn)  is  u  pleasantly  situated  village  of  al>out  4()'  inhub- 
jt-'H'"',  wifh  several  saw  and  grist  mills  and  tanneries.  Tin'  jirineipal 
e;.p  Tl.  .1  vj  hnnher  and  eliuese,  though  there  are  als(t  large  (h-poNits  of  mer- 
eh'intahle  granite  in  Ihc!  viiinity.  A  road  crosses  the  North  Ml.  to  I'ort  * 
WiJiiuiiis,  7  M.  distant,  a  lishing>village  of  ahout  WO  inhahilants,  situated 
on  the  Hay  of  I'nndy.  The  eoast  is  ilhnuinated  here,  at  nigiit,  by  tv;o 
white  lights.     Farther  (h»wn  the  shore  is  the  handet  of  St.  Croix  Core. 

Lawrtncetown  is  a  prosperous  village  (d"  ahout  (KM)  inhabitants,  whence 
much  hnnher  is  exjxjrted.  In  1754,  20, 000  acres  in  this  viei  lity  were 
granted  to  20  gentlemen,  who  named  their  new  domain  in  lumo  of  (Jov. 
Lawrence.  8  M.  distant,  on  the  sununit  of  the  North  Mt.,  is  th<  handet 
of  JJdvtIuch,  beyond  which  is  the  fanning  settlement  of  Mt.  Han,  •  y,  near 
the  Bay  of  Kundy.  Ntio  Albany  (snudl  imi)  is  a  forest-village  h  10  M. 
S.  Iv  of  Lawreneetown ;  and  about  10  M.  farther  iido  the  great  <  entral 
wilderness  is  the  tanning  district  of  Spnntjjitld,  beyond  the  South  }  It. 

Hiddleton  {Americnn  House)  is  a  s.»odl  village  near  the  Si)uih  Alt.  /he 
Nova  Hcutia  Central  Railway  runs  from  Middleton  to  Nictaux  Falls,  4  M. ; 
Cleveland,  a  locality  rich  in  immense  beds  of  iron  ore;  American  Mi  Is,  a 
himber-distriet;  New  Albany;  Dalhousie;  Springfield;  New  (lerniany; 
Kiverside;  liridgewater ;  Mahone  Bay;  and  Lunenburg  (see  page  118;. 

Wllmot  Spa  Springs,  2  M-  from  Middleton  station  (conveynnces  from  all 
trainx),  ii  a  favorite  piovniii.il  suiuuier  resort,  with  North  Mt.  on  one  side  and  •  he 
blue  riUge  of  Soucii  .\U.  ou  tue  other.  The  Springs  rise  in  an  extensive  grove  of  f  »ll 
pines,  and  are  i.elii'  .1  in  ca.ses  of  cancer,  il^Siiepsia,  kidney  disease,  spinnl  co  t- 
piaint,  and  general  lebility.  liall's  Hotel  was  built  in  1888,  and  acronunodafes  2  ») 
gU'  ts,at  •Tt'&-l2ii  «•(.!<  (reductions  for  long  sojourns),  with  not  and  cold  and  show^-r 
Oaths  of  the  saluie  waters.  Lily  Lake,  not  far  away,  affords  good  fi-liing  and  boa'- 
iiig,  and  is  surrounded  by  det-p  woods.  There  are  pleasant  drives  to  Norm  Mt.,  wit« 
its  marine  views ;  and  to  the  quaint  little  sea-ports  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy. 

Wilmot  station  is  ^  M.  from  Fnrminyton  (two  inns),  a  Presbyterian  vil- 
lage. Marf/arttseillt  (Harris's  Hotel)  is  7  M.  distant,  across  the  North  Mt., 
on  the  Bay  of  Fuiuly.  Fruit  and  lumber  are  exported  hence  to  the  United 
States. 

Kingston  M  ition  is  1^  M.  from  Klnr/sfon.  2  M.  from  Melvern  Square, 
2J  M.  from  Tremont,  and  4  M.  from  Prince  William  Street,  rural  hamlets 
in  the  valley.  From  Morden  Road  station  a  highway  runs  N.  W,  7  M. 
across  the  North  Mt.  to  the  little  port  of  Morden,  or  French  Cross  (Bal- 
comb's  Hotel),  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Station,  Aylesford  {Aylesford 
Mouse),  a  smuU  hamlet  Irum  which  a  stage  runs  to  Bridge  water  every 


90      Route  18. 


KENTVILLE. 


1' 


I?  ■  ^ 


Thiirsclny.  The  fnrmincf  towns  of  Jacksonville  and  Morristown  are  5-7  M. 
away,  on  the  top  of  the  South  Mt. 

Lake  George  (  Hallos  inn)  is  12  M.  distant,  whoiiop  the  pwat  forest-bound  ohnln 
of  the  A\le^t'4»r(l  Lakei!)  uia.v  be  vi^iti'd.  The  clikf  of  these  is  Knii}it  Lake, 
whieh  is  about  7  M-  louj^.  A  road  runs  S.  from  the  Lake  ( Jeortfe  settlement  bv  Lake 
Paul  and  ()\\\  Lake  to  Fu!Uaiif/  (32  M.  from  A.vle.-ford),  whicii  is  on  the  i^^rtai  Lake 
Sherbrooke,  in  Lunenburg  ('ounty,  near  tiie  liead-waters  of  the  (Jold  liiver. 

"  Tlie  great  A%  h'sford  sand-plain  lolks  call  it,  in  a  ginral  way,  the  Devil's  Goose 
Pasture.  It  is  I'd  M.  long  and  7  M.  wide;  it  ain't  jusf,  drifting  sands,  but  it's  all 
but  that,  it 's  so  liarreii.  It  "s  uneven,  or  wavy,  like  the  swell  of  the  sea  in  a  calm, 
und  is  covered  with  short,  thin,  dry,  coarse  grass,  and  dotti'd  lierc  and  there  with  a 
half-starved  birch  and  a  stunted  misshapen  spruce.     It  is  jest  about  as  silent  and 

lonesome  and  desolate  a  place  as  you  would  wish  to  see All  that  country 

tliereabouts,  as  J  have  heard  tell  when  I  was  a  boy,  was  once  owned  by  the  Lord, 
the  king,  and  the  (h'vil.  The  glebe-lands  l)clong(d  to  the  first,  (he  nngranted  wil- 
derness-lands to  tlie  second,  and  the  sand-plain  fell  to  the  shart-  of  tlic  last  (and 
people  do  say  tlu^  old  gent'eman  was  rather  done  in  the  divi-ion,  but  that  is  neither 
here  nor  there),  and  so  it  in  called  to  this  day  tlie  DevH\s  Goost  Pasture."' 

Station,  Bcricick  (two  inns),  a  prosi)erons  villajije  of  400  inhab'tants, 
where  the  mannfuctnre  of  shoes  is  carried  on.  A  road  leads  to  tlie  N.  W. 
7  M.  across  Pleasant  Valley  and  the  Black  Rock  Jit.  to  Ilarborville.  a  ship- 
building village  oij  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  whence  large  qnantitiev  of  cordwood 
and  potatoes  arc  shipped  to  the  United  States.  Several  miles  farther  up 
the  bay-shore  is  the  village  of  Camtdn  Creek,  near  which  is  a  lighthouse. 

At  Berwick  the  line  enters  the  *  Cornwallis  Valley,  which  is  shorter 
but  much  more  ])ictnresquc  than  that  of  Annapolis.  Following  the  course 
of  the  Cornwallis  River,  the  hue  approaches  the  base  of  the  South  Mt., 
while  the  North  Mt.  trends  away  to  the  N.  E.  at  an  ever-increasing  angle. 
Beyond  the  rural  stations  of  Watervillc,  Cambridge,  and  Coldbrook,  the 
train  reaches  Kentville  (Lyons  Hotel ;  restaurant  in  the  station),  the 
headquarters  of  the  railway  and  the  capital  of  Kings  County.  Tlrs  town 
has  3,000  iniiabitants,  5  churches,  and  2  weekly  newspapers;  and  there  are 
several  mills  and  quarries  in  the  vicinity.  Raw  umber  and  manganese 
have  been  found  here.  The  roads  to  the  N.  across  the  mountain  lead  to 
the  maritime  hamlets  of  Hall's  Harbor  (10  M.),  Chipmiin's  Brook  (14  M.), 
and  Baxter's  Harbor  (12  M.);  also  to  Sheffield  Mills  (7  M.),  Canning 
(8  M.),  Steam  Mills  (2  M.),  and  Bdltown  (6  M.). 

KentvlUe  to  Chester. 

The  Royal  mail-stages  leave  lv<'ntvillo  at  6  a.  m.  on  Monday  and  Thursday,  reach- 
ing (,'liester  in  the  afternoon.  The  return  trip  is  made  on  Tuesday  and  Friday  Tlie 
distance  between  Kentville  and  Chester  is  4G  M.,  and  the  intervening  country  is 
wild  and  picturesque.  fter  passing  the  South  Mt  by  the  Miil-HnioU  Valley,  at 
8-10  M.  from  Kentville,  the  road  runs  near  the  Gaspereaiix  Lalii-,  a  beautiful 
fore.><t-loch  about  o  M.  long,  with  many  islands  and  highly  diversified  shores.  This 
water  is  connected  by  short  straits  with  tli(^  island-studded  Two-Mile  Lake  and  the 
Four-Mile  Lake,  near  which  are  the  romantic  Ayle.«for!  Lakes.  E.  and  S.  E.  of 
the  Oasp«>reaux  Lake  are  the  trackless  solitudes  of  the  far-spreaoing  Blue  Mts., 
iniiid  whose  recesses  are  the  lakelets  where  the  (iold  River  takes  its  rise.  At  20  M. 
from  Kentville  the  stage  enters  tlie  Ep.iscopal  villitge  of  Neiv  Ross  (Turner's  Hotel), 
at  the  cro-sing  of  the  Dalhousie  Itoad  from  Ilalifix  to  .\.uniii)olis.  From  this  point 
the  stage  descends  the  valley  of  the  Uold  River  to  Chi;?ter  (see  Route  24). 


WINDSOR. 


Route  IS.      91 


The  Hftlifjix  train  runs  E.  from  Kentville  down  the  Cornwallis  Viilley  to 
Port  Williams^  which  is  1^  M.  from  the  village  of  that  name,  whence  duily 
stages  run  to  Canning.  The  next  station  is  Wolfville,  from  which  the  Land 
of  Evangehno  may  most  easily  be  visited  (see  Route  22).  Tlie  buildings 
of  Acadia  College  are  seen  on  the  liill  to  the  r.  of  the  track. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  out  from  Wolfville  with  the  wide  expanse  of  the 
reclaimed  meadows  on  the  1.,  bfyond  which  is  Cape  Bloriiidun,  loomin<'' 
leagues  away.  In  a  few  minutes  the  train  reaches  Grand  Pre,  and  as  it 
slows  up  before  stopj)ing,  the  tree  is  seen  (on  the  1.  about  300  ft.  from  the 
track)  which  marks  the  site  of  the  ancient  Acaduui  chapel.  Beyond  Ilor- 
ton  Landirifj  (see  page  111)  the  Gaspereaux  is  crossed,  and  the  line  swings 
around  toward  tlie  S.  E.  At  Avonpurt  tiie  line  reaches  the  broad  Avon 
Eiver,  and  runs  along  its  1.  bank  to  Ilnnisport  (two  inns).  This  is  a 
large  manufacturing  and  shipbuilding  village,  where  numerous  vessels 
are  owned.  In  the  vicinity  are  quarries  of  freestone.  Steamboats  ply  be- 
tween Hantsport,  Kingsport,  and  Parrsboro'.  Mount  Demon  station  is 
near  the  hill  whose  off-look  Judge  Haliburton  so  highly  extols:  — 

"  I  have  seen  at  different  periods  of  my  life  a  good  deal  of  Europe  and  much  of 
America;  but  I  have  solJom  seen  any  tiling  to  be  compared  with  the  view  of  the 
Basin  of  Miiias  and  its  iidjacent  landscape, as  ic  presents  itself  to  you  on  your  ascent 
of  Mount  Denson.  ....  lie  who  travels  on  this  continent,  and  does  not  sjjend  a  few 
days  on  the  shores  of  tliis  beautiful  and  extraordinary  basin,  may  be  said  to  have 
missed  one  of  the  greatest  attractions  on  this  side  of  the  water." 

The  next  station  is  Falmouth,  in  a  reg'oii  which  abounds  in  gypsum. 
Back  toward  Central  Falmouth  there  are  prolific  orchards  of  apples.  The 
line  now  crosses  the  Avon  River  on  the  most  costly  bridge  in  the  Mari- 
time Provinces,  over  the  singular  tides  of  this  system  of  waters. 

Tiie  traveller  who  passes  from  Annapolis  to  Windsor  at  the  honrs  of  low-tide  will 
sympathize  with  iV.A  author  of  "  IJaddeck,'  who  says  that  the  Avon  *'  would  have 
been  a  charming  river  if  there  had  been  a  drop  of  water  in  it.  I  never  knew  before 
how  much  water  add-s  to  a  river.  Its  slimy  b()tt(3m  was  quite  a  ghastly  spectacle, 
an  ugly  rent  in  the  land  tliat  nothing  could  heal  but  the  friendly  returning  tide. 
I  should  think  it  would  be  confusing  to  dwell  by  a  river  that  runs  first  one  way  and 
then  the  other  and  then  vanishes  altogethei'." 

The  remarkable  tides  of  this  river  are  also  described  by  Mr.  Noble,  aa  follows  : 
The  tide  was  out,  "  leaving  miles  of  black  "  (red)  "  river-bottom  entirely  bare,  with 
only  a  small  stream  coursing  through  in  a  serpentine  manner  A  line  of  blue  water 
■was  visible  on  the  northern  liorizon.  After  an  ab'^-ence  of  an  hour  or  so,  I  loitered 
back,  when,  to  my  surprise,  tliere  was  a  river  like  the  Hudson  at  Catskill,  ruiming 
up  with  a  powerful  current.  The  high  wharf,  upon  which  Init  a  short  time  before 
I  had  stood  and  surveyed  the  black,  unsightly  fields  of  mud,  was  now  up  to  its  mid- 
dle in  the  turbid  and  whirling  stream." 

Windsor  ( C/tyi'on  House,  large  and  comfortable;  Avon  House;  Victoria) 
is  a  cultured  and  prosperous  town  of  3,01!)  inhabitants,  occupying  the 
promontory  at  the  intersection  of  the  Avon  and  St.  Croix  Rivers.  The 
adjacent  districts  of  Falmouth  and  St.  Croix  have  about  0,000  inhabitants. 
There  are  in  Windsor  7  churches,  2  banks,  an  iron  foundry,  furniture 
factories,  shipyards,  etc.  The  chief  exportation  of  AVindsor  is  plaster 
of  Taris,  or  gypsuui,  lai'^^e  tiuuuuties  of  which  are  used  in  the  United 


M 


02        Route  18. 


WINDSOR. 


States  for  fertilizing  the  soil  and  calcining  purposes.  Near  the  ond  of  thft 
railway  bridge,  on  a  projecting  hill,  is  tlie  riiftou  mansion,  formerly  the 
home  of  the  genial  and  witty  Thomas  ('.  IIalil)urton  (horn  at  Windsor  in 
1797,  13  years  a  Judge  ni  Nova  Scotia,  0  years  an  M.  P.  at  London,  and 
died  in  W]')),  the   anthor  of  "Sam  Slick,  The  Cloekmaker,"  etc. 

On  the  knoll  over  the  villag(^  are  the  cumhling  block-houses  and  earth- 
works of  /''()/•/  /ulirnrd,  whence  is  obtanicd  a  pretty  view  down  the  widen- 
ing Avon  and  out  over  the  distant  Basin  of  Minas.  About  1  M.  from 
the  station,  on  a  hill  which  overlooks  the  fine  valley  of  the  Avon  and  its 
uncleared  monntain-rim,  are  tl,.>  plain  buildings  of  King's  College,  the 
oldest  college  now  existing  in  Canada. 

Tt  was  founded  in  17BR,  and  ohiirtored  by  Kinp;  Goorfrn  TTT.  in  1802.  Tt  \o  under 
tho  patronano  of  the  Archbishop  of  ('anrerburv,  and  is  well  endowoil  witli  schnlar- 
phips,  honors,  etc.  Its  ofRcors  must  bplonir  to  the  Ohnrrh  of  England,  though 
tho*-*'  are  no  tpst>^  for  admission  of  students.  Many  of  the  most  influential  and 
distinsiiiahcd  Britiah-Anioricans  havo  b(>en  educated  here,  and  "  Kinpsmen  "  are 
found  in  all  parts  of  Canada.  The  eollejje  has  fi  professor'!  and  about  40  students. 
There  is  also  a  divinity  school  in  connection  with  the  college. 

Tlie  Province  of  Nova  Seotia  is  occupied  by  3(i  Christian  sects.  Of  its  inhabitants. 
55^24  belong  to  the  Anglican  Church,  and  are  ministered  to  by  a  lord  bishop,  i 
canons,  8  rural  deans,  an<l  G8  clergymen.  There  an>  102,<)(H  Catholics,  1().3,.589  Pre?- 
byterians,  73,430  Baptists,  41,751  Methodists,  and  4,958  Lutherans  (census  of  1871). 

The  site  of  Windsor  was  called  by  the  Indians  Pisiquid,  "  the  Junction  of  the 
Waters,"  and  the  adjacent  lowlands  were  .settled  at  an  early  day  by  the  French,  who 
raised  large  quantities  of  wheat  and  exported  it  to  Boston.  The  French  settled  in 
this  vicinity  about  the  middle  of  the  17th  century,  but  retired  far  into  the  interior 
Bt  the  time  of  the  British  conquest.  Gov.  Lawrence  issued  a  proclamation  inviting 
:  settlers  to  come  in  from  New  England,  stating  that  "  1(10,0(10  acres  of  land  had  been 
cultivated  and  had  borne  wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  hemp,  Hax,  etc.,  for  the  last  cen- 
tury without  failure."  The  deserted  French  hamlets  were  occupied  in  1750-60  by 
families  from  Mas.>iacbusetts  and  Rhotle  Island,  and  their  descenilauts  still  possess 
the  land.  The  Rhode-Islanders  erected  the  township  of  Newjiort,  Massachusetts 
formed  Falmouth,  and  Windsor  was  granted  to  British  officers  and  was  fortified  in 
1759.  The  broad  rich  marshes  near  Windsor  had  attracted  a  large  Acadian  popula- 
tion, and  here  was  their  principal  church,  whose  site  is  still  venerated  by  the  Mic- 
Diac  Indians. 

"  I  cannot  recall  a  prettier  village  than  this.  If  you  doubt  my  word,  come  and 
see  it.  Yonder  we  discern  a  portion  of  the  Basin  of  Minas  ;  around  us  are  the  ri(  h 
nieiidows  of  Nova  Scotia.  Intellect  has  here  placed  a  crowning  college  upon  a  bill ; 
opulence  has  .surrounded  it  with  picturesque  villas."  (CozztNS.)  Another  writer 
has  spoken  with  enthusiasm  of  Windsor's  "  wide  and  beautiful  environing  mead- 
ows and  the  hanging-gardens  of  mountain-forests  on  the  S.  and  W." 

The  Halifax  train  sweeps  along  the  St.  Croix  Iiiver  around  Windsor, 
pass  ng  (on  the  r.)  the  dark  buildings  of  King's  College,  on  a  hilltop,  w  tli 
the  new  chapel  in  front  of  their  line.  The  character  of  the  landscape  be- 
gins to  change,  and  to  present  a  striking  contrast  with  the  agricultural 
regions  just  traversed. 

"  Indeed,  if  a  man  can  live  on  rocks,  like  a  goat,  he  may  settle  anywhere  between 
Windsor  and  Halifax.  \Vith  the  exception  of  a  wild  pond  or  two,  we  saw  nothing 
but  rocks  and  stunted  firs  for  forty-five  miles,  a  monotony  unrelieved  by  one  pic- 
turesque feature.  Then  we  longed  for  the  '  Garden  of  Nova  Scotia,'  and  understood 
what  is  meant  by  the  name."   ('.Varnkr's  Buddeck.) 

Beyond  Three-Mile  Plains  the  train  reaches  Newport^  near  which  large 


1 


»r  the  ond  of  the 
on,  fnrinorly  the 
n  at  Windsor  in 
at  London,  and 
ikor,"  etc. 
onses  and  earth- 
lovvn  the  widen- 
lout  1  M.  from 
le  Avon  and  its 
I'a  College,  the 


1802.  Tt  U  under 
wod  with  srhnlar- 
Enpland,  though 
't  influential  and 
'  KinfTPnien  "  are 
bout  40  students. 

►fits  inhabitants, 

a  lord  bishop,  l 

lies,  10,3,589  Pre?- 

(census  of  1871). 

Junction  of  the 
the  French,  who 
French  s-ettlcd  in 
■  into  the  interior 
aniiition  inviting 
of  land  had  been 
,  for  the  latst  cen- 
d  in  1759-60  by 
ants  still  possess 
t,  Massachusetts 
1  was  fortified  in 
Acadian  })opuia- 
ited  hy  the  Mic- 

word,  come  and 
d  us  are  the  rii  h 
lege  upon  a  hill; 
Another  writer 
avirouing  mead- 

)nnd  Windsor, 

a  hilltop,  w  th 

landscape  be- 

le  agricultural 


y  where  between 
we  saw  nothing 
^ved  by  one  pic- 
and  understood 


r  which  large 


ifl  ' 


U  "         t   i' 


HALIFAX. 


Route  19.       93 


quantities  of  gypsum  are  quarried  from  the  veins  in  the  soft  marly  sanrl- 
stone.  Nearly  3,000  tons  of  th's  fine  fibrous  mineral  are  shipped  yearly 
from  Newport  to  the  United  States.  To  the  N.  are  the  villages  of 
Brooklyn  (5  M.),  devoted  to  mutnifacturing;  Scotch  V^iilage  (»  M.),  a 
farming  settlement;  and  Burlington,  on  the  Kennotcook  Hiver  (10  M.). 
Chivirie  and  Walton,  20-22  M.  N.,  on  the  Basin  of  Minas,  are  accessible 
from  Newport  by  a  tri-weekly  conveyance.  The  train  passes  on  to  Ellers- 
home  (small  inn),  a  hamlet  clustered  around  a  furniture-factory  and 
lumber-mills.  2i  M.  distant  is  the  settlement  at  the  foot  of  the  Ardidse 
Mt.^  which  is  the  highest  point  of  limd  in  the  Province,  and  overlooks 
Falmouth,  Windsor,  and  the  Basin  of  Minas.  The  train  now  crosses  the 
Five-Island  Lake,  skirts  Uniacke  Lake,  with  Mt.  Uniacke  on  the  N.,  and 
stops  at  the  Mt.  Uniacke  station  (small  inn).  The  Mt.  Uniacke  estate  and 
mansion  were  founded  more  than  50  years  ago  by  Richard  John  Uniacke, 
then  Attoniey-Goneral  of  Nova  Scotia.  The  house  occupies  a  pictui'esque 
position  between  two  rock-bound  lakes,  and  the  domain  has  a-  hard- 
working tenantry.  The  Mt.  Uniacke  Gnld-Mines  are  3  M.  from  the  sta- 
tion, and  were  opened  in  1865.  In  1869  the  mines  yielded  $37,340,  or 
$345  to  each  workman,  being  6  ounces  and  4  penny  weights  from  each 
ton  of  ore.  For  the  next  10  M.  the  line  traverses  an  irredeemable  wil- 
derness, and  then  reaches  Beaver  Bank,  whence  lumber  and  slate  are 
exported.  At  Windsor  Junction  the  train  runs  on  to  the  rails  of  the 
Intercolonial  Railway  (see  page  82),  which  it  follows  to  Halifax. 


19.    Halifax. 

Arrival  from  the  Sea.  —  Cape  Sanibro  is  usually  seen  first  by  the  passenger 
on  the  transatlantic  steamers,  and  Halifax  Harbor  is  soon  entered  between  the  light- 
houses on  Ohebucto  Head  and  Devil  Island.  These  lights  are  7>^  M.  apart,  Chebucto 
(on  the  1.)  having  a  revolving  light  visible  for  18  M.,  and  Devil  Island  a  fixed  red 
light  on  a  brown  tower.  On  the  \V^  shore  the  fishing-hamlets  of  Portuguese  Cove, 
Bear  Cove,  and  Herring  Cove  are  passed  in  succession.  4  M.  S.  E.  of  Herring  Cove 
is  the  dangerous  Thruincap  Shoal,  where  H.  B.  M.  frigate  La  Tribune,  44,  wan 
wrecked  in  1797,  and  nearly  all  her  people  were  lost,  partly  by  reason  of  an  absurd 
stretch  of  naval  punctilio.  Between  this  shoal  and  McNab's  Island  on  one  side,  and 
the  mainland  on  the  other,  is  the  long  and  narrow  strait  called  the  Kastern  Passage. 
In  1862  the  Confederate  crui-ser  Tallaliansee  was  blockaded  in  Halifax  Harbor  by  a 
squadron  of  United-Slates  frigates.  The  shallow  and  tortuous  Kastern  Passage  was 
not  watched,  since  nothing  but  small  fishing-craft  had  ever  traversed  it,  and  it  was 
considered  impassable  for  a  steamer  like  the  Tallahassee.  But  Capt.  Wood  took  ad- 
vantage of  the  high  tide,  on  a  dark  night,  and  crept  cautiously  out  behind  McNab's 
Island.     By  daylight  he  was  far  out  of  sight  of  the  outwitted  blockading  fl(>ct. 

2  M.  from  Herring  Cove  the  steamer  pa.sses  Salisbury  IIea<l,  and  runs  between  the 
Martello  Tower  and  lighthouse  on  Mauglicr  Beach  (r.  side)  and  the  York  Redoubt 
(1*4^  .M.  apart)  Near  the  Hodoubt  is  a  Catholic  church,  and  a  little  above  is  the 
hamlet  of  Falkland,  with  its  Episcopal  church,  beyond  which  the  N  W.  Arm  opens 
on  the  1.  Passing  between  the  batteries  on  McNab's  Island  and  Fort  Ogilvie,  on 
Point  Pleasiint,  the  steamship  soon  runs  by  Fort  Clarence  a!ul  the  fortress  on  George 
Island,  and  reaches  iier  wharf  at  Halifax,  with  the  town  of  Dartmouth  and  the  great 
Insaj'.e  Asylum  on  tlie  opposiU;  siiore. 

i\rrival  by  Railway.  —  The  railway  has  been  prolonged,  bv  a  system  of 
costly  works,  to  a  terminus  within  the  city,  where  a  large  and  handsome  ter- 
minal station  has  been  erected,  with  all  modem  conveniencea.  It  is  not  far  fVt>oi 
the  Queen's  Dock  Yard. 


94      Boute  19. 


HALIFAX. 


li 


'!^ 


r 


I  ►l' 


^1 


Hotels.,—  Halifax  ITotol  (fTpsalpin's),  10?  TTollis  St  .  S2-4  a  Jay  ;  Queen  Hotel 
(A.  B.  Sheraton);  Lorre  House,  83,  8"),  and  ^-7  Morri--  SI-.,  a  capital  family  hotel  ; 
Waverlv  HoiiPf  (fhe  Mi-^ses  R"mans)  Pleisant  St  ,  *^2.',i^  i\  ilav  ;  'nrlton  Floiise,  57 
Arffvle  ft  :  Royal,  I'll  Aigyle  St.  ;  Albion,  S.iciivillo  St.  ;  S^.  Juliun  (European 
plan),  llullis  St. 

iv«'ni ill! rant H.  —  Tccm,  pastry,  and  ronfectionery  may  be  obtained  at  Mifrhell's, 
2.')  (ieorj,'e  ^''t.     Anwricmt  licri'rdf/cs  are  coinpoumled  at  tlie  Halitax-Hou.-c  luir. 

liKa<liiiu:>KooiiiM.  — Tlu!  Yoinij?  Men's  Chii.stian  As^()C'iatilm,  c  orner  of  (Jr.in- 
villeaiid  I'riiice  Sts. ;  tlie  Provincial  liibrary,iii  tlu;  Province  (or  I'arlianient)  Huild- 
inj?  (open  lu  to  4):  and  in  tli(!  ciiief  lioteis.  Tlie  llalil'a.x  Liiiriry  is  at  19V  Hdlis 
."r.  ;  and  tlie  ('itizcns'  Kiee  Library  (founded  by  (Miicf  .Jn.'^tice  Sir  W'illiain  Yonn}?) 
i- an  Art:\  li'  M.ill.  Avj-vlc  Sf  .and  i-  open  from  3  to  (i  p  m.  Tin-  MrrclDnits"  !■  x- 
change  and  Rpaditig-Hoom  is  on  R<'d*"ord  Row.  The  Chun;h-of-England  InsHtute 
(liibrnrv  and  Ct\  innasiuni)  is  at  uO  Harrington  St. 

Clubs. — Tile  ila,iiii.\  i.luO  lias  an  (.i;:iiiit  liouse  at  1;")  Hollis  St.;  tlie  City 
Club,  IJarrinirtoM  St  ;  tMe  (^itholic  Younn  Men's  Club,  Starr  St  (<  pen  from  2  to  10 
P.M.);  tlie  lli^rliland,  Nortli  IJritisli,  St.  George'H,  Charitable  lri.»li,  and  (iciniania 
Soeifties,    Tlie  Roy;d  Nova-Seotia  Yai  lit  Club  hat*  a  station  at  the  foot  of  llollis  St. 

Aiuiiseiiieiils.  —  There  is  a  neat,  comfortable,  and  fiirly  app(  inted  theatre, 
called  the  Aradeiuy  of  Music  ;  and  Orpheus  llall.  Hi  winter,  toboiinaniiif^  on  Cita- 
del Hill  and  Collins'  h'idd,  b.\  the  Red-('ap  and  Royal  Ulue  Cluiis,  etc. ;  skatii.g  at 
the  Rinl<,on  Tower  St.  and  on  the  N  W  Arm  and  the  ponds;  curling,  by  the 
Curling  Club,  at  their  Rink  :  and  sicinh-riding  at  Point  Pleasant,  etc.  In  summer, 
good  games  of  cricket  and  indilTerent  liase-ball  plajing  may  be  pcen  on  the  Garrison 
Cricket-Oround.  But  Halifax  is  chieily  famous  for  the  interest  it  takes  in  trials  of 
pkill  between  yachtsmen  and  oarsmen,  and  exciting  aquatic  conte.'-ts  occur  fre- 
quently during  the  summer.  Boats  tor  hire  at  Nortli  Slip  and  Ferry  Slip,  and 
Luke's,  Freslnvater.  The  W  amlerers"  Boat-Cliib  have  their  hoatliouse  and  jiier  at 
the  foot  of  Morris  St.  The  station  of  the  Koyal  Nova-Scotia  Yacht  Squadron  is  at  the 
Royal  Engineer  Yard,  foot  of  Hollis  St.     There  is  capital  fishing  in  the  N    \V.  Arm. 

Hoivse-Cars  run  every  7.^  minutcp  from  Richmond,  by  Campbell  Road,  iiock- 
man,  Barrington,  Pleasant,  and  Inglis  Sts.,at  the  entrance  to  Point-Pleasant  I'ark, 
Tower  Roai^,  Victoria  Road,  S.  Park  St.,  ami  Spring-Garden  Koad  to  barrington 
St.,  opposite  the  Academy  of  Music,  Also  fioni  Bells  Lane  on  Barrington  St.  and 
S|)ringGarden  Road  to  Soiilh-l*ark  and  Inglis  Sts      Fare,  5  c. 

Carriages.  —  For  each  person  for  h  M.,15c  ;  1  M.,25c.  ;  2M.,40c. ;  3M., 
50c.  If  returning  in  same  carriage,  lialf  the  above  rates.  For  1-horse  carriage, 
per  hour,  75c. ;  2-liorse  carriage,  per  hour.  ^1 

Distances  by  sea.  —  Halifax  to  Portland.  310  M  (26  hrs.) ;  Boston,  378  M.  (35 
hr.i.) ;  New  York,  542  M  (50  hrs.) ;  Baltimore,  SHU  M.  (76  hrs.) ;  St.  John's,  N.  F., 
600  M.  (48  hrs.).  By  rail  to  St.  John.  277  M. ;  to  Quebec,  G78 ;  Montreal,  850; 
Charlottetown,  97  :  Portland.  618;  Boston,  726;  New  York,  930.  J}itita)ir('s  from 
the  Post-Offlce  to  Dockyard,  1  M.  ;  Wellington  Barracks,  1^  ;  Richmond,  2;  Poors' 
Asylum,!;  Fort  Ogilvie,  U  ;  Point  Pleasant,  2:  N.  W.  Arm  Bridge,  2^-. 

Kailv^ays.  —  Intercolonial  (Routes  16  and  17);  Windsor  &  Annapolis. 

Steamsliips.  -  The  Allan  Line,  fortnightly  f > t  St.  John's.  N.  F.,  Queen.<!town 
and  Liverpool,  Norfolk  and  Baltimore.  Fares  :  Halifax  to  Liverpool,  S75  and  .S  25  ; 
to  Norfolk  or  Baltimore,  $20  and  $12.  The  Furness-Line  steamships  run  between 
Halifax  and  London,  Eng.  ;  the  Ilansa  Line,  to  Hamburg  and  Antwerp;  the  Allan 
Line,  to  Glasgow  (also);  the  Red-Cross  Line,  for  New  York  (?^16  or  f9),  or  St. 
John's,  N.  F.  («18  or  *9). 

A  steamer  runs  from  Halifax  every  Tuesday  to  Sheet  Harbor,  Canso,  Arichat, 
Port  Mulgrave,  Port  Hawkesbury,  Georgetown,  and  Souris.  Steamboats  leave  for 
Lunenburg,  Mondays  and  Thursdays;  for  Prospect,  Chester,  and  Mahone  Bay, 
Wednesdays  and  Fridays:  for  Bridgewater.  every  Monday  and  Thursday;  for  St. 
Peters  (Cape  Breton),  West  Bay,  Baddeck,  Sydney,  and  for  Channel,  Codroy,  and 
Bonne  Bay  (Newfoundland),  fortnightly.  The  Halifax  leaves  for  Boston  every 
Wednesday  at  10  a.  m.  The  Boston,  Halifax,  and  Prince  Edward  Island  steamships 
leave  every  week  for  Boston. 

Stajjes  leave  Halitax  daily  for  Chester,  Lunenburg.  Liverpool,  SlielV)urne,  and 
Yarmouth  (see  Rome  24j,  <lep  trting  at  6  .\.  M.  Stages  leave  at  6  \.  M.,  on  Monday, 
Wednesday,  an'l  Frid.MV,  f'T  Musquod'.jboit  Harbor,  .Icddorc.  Ship  Harbor,  Tangier, 
Sheet  Harbor,  Beaver  Harbor,  and  Salmon  River  (see  Route  29). 


HALIFAX. 


lioiite  ID.      95 


;  3M., 

laniage, 


me.  and 
loiidiiy, 


? 


Halifax,  the  capital  of  Xova  Scotia,  aiul  tlie  diief  naval  stati.  .1  of 
thi3  British  Ijiipiro  in  tlie  Wef-tcru  Ilcmi.«|)herc,  has  ;j(i,  11)0  iiihahitaiits, 
witli  7  banks,  5  daily  papers  and  4  weeklii-s,  and  ;>8clninlK's.  It  (arupics  a 
picturt's(ju(!  position  on  the  K,  slopo  of  the  peninsula  (of  ;],U00  acres),  be- 
tween the  bay,  tlie  N.  W.  Arm,  and  tiie  Ucdtbrd  Hasin;  and  looks  out 
upon  a  noble  harbor,  deep,  conipK;rcly  sheltered,  easily  accessible,  and 
larjj;e  enonj^h  "  to  contain  all  the  navies  of  Knro|)e."  In  IHOit  the  imports 
amounted  to  $7,202,504,  and  the  exports  to  S  ;J, 109,548;  and  in  1870  tho 
assessed  valuation  of  the  city  was  Sl(),753,M2.  The  city  has  a  copious 
supply  of  water,  which  is  drawn  from  the  Chain  Lakes,  about  12  M.  dis- 
tant, and  so  high  above  Halifax  that  it  can  force  jets  over  the  higliest 
houses  by  its  own  pressure.  There  is  a  fire-alann  telegraph,  and  an  effi- 
cient fire  department,  with  several  steam-engines. 

The  city  lies  along  the  shore  of  the  harbor  for  2.^  M.,  and  is  about  ^  M. 
■wide.  Its  plan  is  regular,  and  some  of  the  business  streets  are  well  built; 
but  the  general  character  of  the  houses  is  that  of  poor  construction  and 
dingy  colors.  It  has,  however,  been  much  bettered  of  late  years,  owing  to 
the  improvements  afrer  two  great  fh'es,  and  to  the  wealth  which  flowed  in 
during  the  American  civil  war,  and  hardly  deserves  tho  severe  criticism 
of  a  recent  traveller:  "  Probablv  there  is  not  anvwhere  a  more  rustv,  for- 
lorn  town,  and  this  in  spite  of  its  magnificent  situation." 

Hollis  and  Granville  Streets,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Parliament  Buildings, 
contain  the  most  attractive  shops  and  the  headquarters  of  the  great  import- 
ing houses.  Many  of  the  i)uil(lings  in  this  section  are  of  solid  and  elegant 
construction,  though  the  prevalence  of  dark  colors  gives  a  sombre  hue  to 
the  street  lines. 

The  Parliament  Building  occupies  the  square  between  Hollis,  George, 
Granville,  and  Prince  Streets,  and  is  surrounded  with  trees.  In  IboO  this 
plain  structure  of  gray  stone  was  called  the  finest  building  in  North 
America,  but  American  architecture  has  advanced  very  far  since  that 
time.  Opposite  the  Granville-St.  entrance  is  the  Library,  occupying  a 
very  cosey  little  hall,  and  supplied  -with  Britis!\  and  Cantidian  ■works  on 
law,  history,  suid  science.  In  the  N.  part  of  the  building  is  the  [)lain  and 
commodious  hall  of  the  House  of  Assembly;  and  on  the  S.  is  the  chamber 
of  the  Legislative  Council,  in  which  are  some  fine  portraits.  On  the  r.  and 
1.  of  the  vice-regal  throne  are  l\ill-length  *  portraits  of  King  George  HI. 
and  Queen  Cliarlotto;  on  the  N.  wall  are  Chief  Justice  Blowers,  King 
William  IV.,  dudge  Haliburt^n  (see  page  92),  *  Sir  Thomas  Strange  (by 
Benjamin  West),  and  Sir  Brenton  Haliburton.  Opposite  the  throne  ai-e 
Nova  Scotia's  military  heroes,  Sir  .Tohn  Inglis  (the  defender  of  Lucknow) 
and  Sir  W.  Fen  wick  Williams  of  Kars.    On  the  S.  wall  are  fuU-lensrth 


Trnif^,  o. 


f  U 


Ing  George  II.  and  Queen  Carol'nc 


por- 


The  Dominion  Building-,  nearly  opposite  the  Province  (or  Parliament) 
Buikhng,  on  lioUis  St.,  covers  an  area  of  1-iU  bv  70  ft.    It  is  of  froestone,  ia 


96       Route  10, 


HALIFAX. 


I 


mm 


t  » 


an  ornate  style  of  nrcliitocture,  and  cost  S  120,000.  Tlio  lower  storj'  is 
ocrnpUMl  by  tlu*  Post-Odice;  and  the  third  floor  contaiiiH  the  ♦  Provincial 
Museum,  wiiicli  ('xliil)its  prcscrviMl  birds,  aniiuids,  ri'ptiles,  fossils,  min- 
erals, sIk'IIs,  coins,  and  specimens  of  the  stones,  minerals,  coals,  and  pold 
ores  of  Nova  Scotia.  There  are  also  mitnerons  Indian  relii's,  curiosities 
from  .Japan  and  China,  naval  models,  and  old  portraits.  Opposite  the  en- 
trance is  a  <jilt  pyramid,  which  represents  the  amount  of  gold  produced 
in  the  Province  between  1^02  and  1870, —  rj  tons,  8  cwt.,  valued  at 
Sy,373,431.  Most  of  this  gold  has  been  coined  at  the  U.  S.  Mint  in  Thila- 
delphia,  and  is  i)urer  and  liner  than  that  of  California  and  Montana. 

On  the  corner  of  Granville  and  Prince  Streets,  near  the  Parliament 
Buildin<r,  is  the  new  and  stately  stone  building  of  the  Young  Men's  Chris- 
tian Association,  with  its  reading-rooms  and  other  departments.  The 
massive  brownstone  house  of  the  Halifax  Club  is  to  the  S.,  on  Ilollis  St. 

The  *  Citadel  covers  the  summit  of  the  hill  upon  whose  slopes  the  city  is 
built,  and  is  250  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  Citadel  is  a  fortress  of  the  first  class,  according 
to  the  standards  of  the  old  school ;  though  of  late  years  the  govermnent 
lias  bestowed  much  attention  on  the  works  at  George's  Island,  which  are 
more  important  in  a  naval  point  of  view. 

The  works  were  commenced  by  Prince  Edwnrd,  th«>  Duke  of  Kent.,  •'«i  the  father 
of  Queen  Victoria,  wlio  was  then  Conuiiander  of  tlie  Forces  on  this  staiiun.  Ik  oni- 
Ijlo^ed  in  the  service  a  large  nuiiiber  of  the  i\hiroous,  wlio  hiul  been  coiiqueiHil  by 
tiie  Dritish,  and  were  banished  from  .huuaica,  and  subsequently  deported  to  f^ierra 
Leone.  Changes  and  additions  have  been  made  nearly  every  year  piiice,  until  tlio 
present  immense  stronghold  has  been  completed.  It  is  separated  fi*om  the  glaci.s  by 
a  deep  moat,  over  which  are  the;  guns  on  the  numerous  bastions.  1  he  massive  ma- 
Fonry  of  the  walls  seems  to  defy  assault,  and  the  extensive  barracks  within  are  paid 
to  be  bomb-proof.  During  the  years  1873-74  the  artillery  has  been  changed,  and 
the  pi'evious  mi.xed  armament  has  been  to  a  great  degree  replaced  by  nuizzle-loud- 
ing  Woolwich  guns  of  heavy  calibre,  adiijited  for  firing  the  conical  Palliser  shot  with 
points  of  chilled  iron.  The  visitor  is  allowed  to  walk  around  the  circuit  of  the  ram- 
parts, and  this  elevated  station  alTords  a  l)road  view  on  either  side.  Perhaps  the 
best  prosjjeet  is  that  from  the  S-  E.  bastion,  overlooking  the  crowded  city  on  the 
eloiJCH  below;  the  narrow  liarbor  with  its  shipping;  Dartmouth,  sweeping  up  to- 
ward Bedford  Basin;  Fort  Clarence,  below  Dartmouth,  with  its  dark  casemates; 
ISIcNab's  Island,  crowned  with  batteries  and  shutting  in  the  Eastern  Passage ;  the 
outer  harbor,  with  its  fortified  points,  and  the  ocean  beyond. 

Near  the  jiortal  of  the  citi'.uci  is  an  outer  battery  of  antiquated  guns;  and  at  the 
B.  end  of  the  glacis  are  the  extensive  barracks  of  the  Koyal  Artillery.  Other  mili- 
tary quarters  are  seen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Citadel. 

"But  if  you  cast  your  eyes  over  yonder  magnificent  bay ,  whei'c  vessels  bearing 
flags  of  all  nations  are  at  anchor,  ami  then  let  your  vision  sweep  past  and  over  the 
islands  to  the  outlets  beyond,  wlicre  the  quiet  ocean  lies,  bordered  with  fog-banks 
that  loom  ominously  at  the  boundary -line  of  the  horizon,  you  will  see  a  picture  of 
marvellous  beauty;  for  the  coast  scenery  here  transcends  our  own  sea-shores,  both 
in  color  and  outline.  And  behind  us  again  stretch  large  green  plains,  dotted  w  ith 
cottages,  and  bounded  with  undulating  hills,  with  now  and  then  glimpses  of  blue 


r  storj'  is 
rovincial 

sils,  niin- 
mid  pold 
•uriositics 
e  the  en- 
produced 
raliu'd  (It 
in  Piiilii- 
na. 

iirliamont 
I's  Chris- 
ts.      The 
illis  St. 
he  city  i^ 

iccording 
vermnent 
k^hich  are 


the  father 
lie  em- 

qiiiTc  cl  by 
to  Sierra 
,  iiiitii  the 
l'  glacis  by 
assive  nia- 
hi  are  paiJ 
inpecl,  and 
uzzk-loitil- 
8hot  with 
f  the  ram- 
rliajjs  the 
ity  on  tlie 
ng  up  to- 
a^cniatcs; 
isage ;  the 

uid  at  the 

Ither  niili- 

Is  bearing 
1  over  the 
tog-banks 
picture  of 
ores,  both 
ntteil  vith 
3S  of  blue 


HALIFAX. 


•  ^ 


Route  19.       97 


water;  and  as  we  walk  down  Citadel  IIlll,  we  feel  half  reeonciled  to  Halifax,  Its 
({uaint  mouldy  old  galile-i,  its  HoMier-*  and  sailors,  its  fogs,  ciibs,  iK'nn>  and  lialf- 
peiiuy  tokens,  and  all  its  little,  odd,  outlandish  peculiarities."     (('ozz,..Ns.) 

Lower  IVutcr  St.  border.^  the  hurlior-front,  and  gives  acces.s  to  the 
wharves  of  the  various  steiiinsliip  and  [)arii(!t  lines.  It  runs  from  tho 
Ordnance  Yard,  at  tli<!  loot  of  Huckin;,'liam  St.,  to  the  Govcnnnent  reser- 
vation near  (}eor<,'e  Island,  and  |)rcscnts  a  remarkably  dmgy  and  dilapi' 
dated  appearance  tlirou<;hont  its  entire  length. 

The  Queen's  Dookyard  occupies  f^  M.  of  the  shore  of  the  upper  harbor, 
nnd  is  surrounded  on  the  landward  side  by  a  high  stone-wall.  It  contain.s 
the  usual  parai)h('rnalia  of  a  first-class  navy-yard,  — storehouses,  machine- 
shops,  docks,  arsenals,  a  hospital,  and  a  line  of  ofKcers'  (pnirters.  It  is 
much  used  by  the  frigates  of  the  Hritisii  navy,  both  to  repair  and  to  refit, 
and  the  visitor  may  generally  see  here  two  or  three  vessels  of  Her  Britan- 
nic Majesty. 

The  Dorkyard  was  founded  in  1753,  and  n^ceived  great  additions  (including  the 
present  wall)  in  1770.  During  the  two  great  wars  with  tlie  United  States  it  waa 
Invaluable  as  a  station  for  tlie  royal  navy,  wiio.-e  fleets  thence  descendt'il  upon  the 
American  coast.  Many  tropliies  of  the  war  of  1SP2  went  kept  here  (iw  similar  marine 
nienientos  of  another  nation  an;  kept  in  tlu^  Brooklyn  and  Washington  Navy-Yards), 
im'lutling  the  figure-head  of  the  untbrtunate  American  frigate,  the  CUisupeake^ 
which  was  captured  in  1H13,  olT  IJoston  Harbor,  l)y  the  Uritisli  frigate  Shannon,  and 
vas  brought  into  Halifax  with  gn'at  rejoicing  It  is,  perhaps,  in  kindly  recognition 
of  the  new  fraternity  of  the  Angl' -American  nations,  that  the  InijK'rial  (Jovernment 
has  lately  caused  these  invidious  emblems  of  strife  to  be  removed. 

The  Dockyard  is  not  ojhmi  to  the  put)lic,  l)ut  tlio  superintendent  will  generally 
admit  visitors  upon  presentation  of  their  cards. 

In  tlie  N.  W.  part  of  the  city,  near  tho  foot  of  Citadel  Hill,  is  the 
Military  Hospital,  before  which  is  the  Garrison  Chapel,  a  plain  wooden 
building  on  whose  iinier  walls  are  many  mural  tablets  in  memory  of  ofli- 
cers  who  have  died  on  this  station.  Beyond  this  point,  Brunswick  St. 
runs  X.  W.  l)y  the  Church  of  the  Redeemer  to  St.  Georrje's  Church,  a  sin- 
gular wooden  building  of  a  circular  form.  At  the  corner  of  Brunswick 
and  Gerrish  Sts.  is  a  cemetery,  in  which  stands  a  quaint  little  church 
dating  from  1761,  having  been  erected  by  one  of  the  first  companies  of 
German  immigrants. 

On  Gottingen  St.  is  the  Church  of  St.  Joseph,  where  the  Catholic  seamen 
of  the  fleet  attend  mass  on  Sunday  at  9^  A.  M.  Near  this  building  is  the 
Or[)Iian  Asylum  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity. 

Farther  N.  on  Gottingen  St.  is  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  beyond 
which,  on  North  St.,  is  the  Roman  Catholic  Coller/e  of  St.  Mary,  at  Belle 
Air.  This  institution  is  under  the  charge  of  the  Christian  Brothers,  and 
has  the  same  line  of  studies  as  an  American  high-school.  Farther  out  on 
Gottingen  St.  is  the  Admiralty  House,  the  ofTicial  residence  of  the  com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  North-American  and  West-Indian  Squadrons,  be- 
yond which  are  the  Wellington  Barracks,  over  the  Richmond  railway- 
station.  From  the  plateau  on  which  the  secluded  Admiralty  House  is 
6  Q 


Mi 


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UK 


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It' A  •! 

k?f  ! 

if  ''*'U  '» I 

Pit' 


98       liniite  19. 


HALIFAX. 


lor;ite(l,  the  visitor  cnn  look  down  on  tho  Queen's  Dockynnl,  the  fleet, 
luid  the  imi'M'  liiirl)or. 

Tlu'  Homiiii  Ciitliolic  Cathedral  of  St.  Mary  is  on  the  Sprinjr  (^uinlcn 
HoikI,  uv.w  it-i  iiitfiscctioii  with  IMcasant  St.  It  hits  recently  been  nnich 
enliirjit'il  mihI  iniproveil  by  the  i\il<litiuii  of  mi  ch-pimt  priinite  fiivmh'  mid 
spire,  in  tlnrid  (Jothic  arcliitccttire.  Tlic  CatlK'drn!  fronts  on  an  old  and 
liononvl  (•(>ni('t('ry,  on  whoso  K.  side  is  a  linriy  coticcived  ♦  nioinnnciit  to 
VVcUford  and  Parkei-,  the  Nova-Scotian  licnics  of  the  Crimean  War. 
(Major  Welslnrd  was  killed  in  the*  storniin<^  of  the  Hedaii.)  It  consists  of 
a  snuill  lint  massive  arcli  of  brownstone,  standing  on  a  broad  ^rranite  base, 
mid  snpportinjT  a  statue  of  the  Ihntish  lion.  Ojiposite  tlie  cemetery,  on 
rieasant  St.,  is  the  Presbyterian  Chundi  of  St.  Matthew  (under  the  cure 
of  the  Itev.  Mr.  !.ain;c)-  Above  the  Cathedral,  on  the  Spriiif,^  (iarden 
lioad,  is  the  haiidsonu'  hiiildinj;  of  the  Court  I/oiisc^  wtdl  situated  amid 
open  j^n'oiinds,  near  the  jail  and  the  capacimis  drill-sheds. 

'Ilie  Public  Gardensare  on  the  Sprii!<;-(iarden  Uoad,  and  cover  IS  acres, 
cliarmin;^ly  laid  out,  with  pleasant  paths,  windiii;;'  ])onds,  deep  shrubber- 
ies, and  a  wealth  of  ri(di  flowers.  A  military  baud  plavs  here  Saturday 
allernoons,  and  sometimes  on  simimer  eveiiiii,i,^s,  when  the  (iaiNlcus  are 
li;i;hted  by  tdectrieity.  The  Wanderers'  Athletie-Clul)  grounds  are  on  the 
side  toward  the  CitatUd;  the  celebrated  (L'amp-II ill  Cemetery  on  the  W.; 
the  {j^reat  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  in  pleasant  i,n-ounds,  and  the  Poor- 
lloiise,  on  the  S.;  and  the  splendid  new  buildings  of  Dalhousie  College. 
Ill  this  region  also  the  new  Chun  h-(if-Kn<ilaiid  ('athedral  (llishop  Frederick 
Courtney,  late  of  St.  Paul's  Chiiivh,  lioston)  is  being  built. 

Tlie  Government  House  is  a  short  distance  beyond  St.  Matthew's 
Chinrh,  on  Pleasant  St.,  and  is  the  ofTlcial  residence  of  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor  of  Nova  Scotia.  It  is  a  })lain  and  massive  old  stone  building, 
•with  projecting  wings,  mid  is  nearly  snrrounde<l  by  trees.  P'artlier  S  ,  on 
[Morris  St.,  is  the  Aiifilican  Cathedral  of  St.  Luke,  a  plain  and  homely 
wooden  building.  Revoiid  this  point  are  the  pretty  wooden  churches  and 
villas  which  extend  toward  Point  Pleasant. 

At  the  foot  of  South  St.  arc  the  Orrhmnce  Grn}inffs,  from  whose  wharf  the  lower 
harbor  is  ov(>rlo()k>,'d.  About  1,800  ft.  distant  is  George's  Island,  on  whidi  \a 
a  i)()sv(!rful  luoderii  fortrc^ss,  ln'iiriiijia  iieiivy  Jirjiiainent  from  which  iiniucn.'^ociiillod- 
h'on  or  steel-pointeil  shot  eoukl  ho  hurlcil  ajrainst  a  hostile  fleet.  Tliis  position  is 
tiic  key  to  tin;  liartior,  and  convertics  its  fire  with  that  of  Fo/t  C/nrencr,  a  low  hut 
massive  casoniated  work,  1  M.  S.  K.  on  the  Dartmouth  shore,  who.-c  f^uns  eould 
swco])  tho  E.istorn  I'ass.'ifre  and  the  inner  harbor.  The  p;iss(i,u;e  from  the  outer  har- 
bor is  defended  by  tiic  York  Redoubt,  near  Sandwich  lV)int,  by  a  new  line  of  bat- 
teries on  the  N.  \V.  shore  of  McNab's  Ishmd,  aud  by  the  forts  on  Point  I'lea.saut. 

At  the  corner  of  Prince  and  Barrington  Sts.  is  St.  Paul's  Episcopal 
Clnu'ch,  a  plain  and  spacious  old  building  (built  in  1750),  with  numerous 
nmral  tablets  on  the  inner  walls.  Dalhousie  CoUer/e  and  Unicersitj/,  near 
the  Public  Garden,  was  founded  by  tlie  Earl  of  Dalhousie  while  he  was 
Governor-General  of  Canada.     Its  design  was  to  provide  means  for  the 


i  n 


the  fleet. 

ip  Gartlni 
L'on  much 
u.'-'nl''  mill 
I  old  nnd 
imnciit  to 
I'liii  VViir. 
niisists  of 
iiitc  Itiiso, 
H'tcrv,  on 
r  tlif  cure 
j;  Garden 
itcd  uuiid 

rlSaeres, 
slii'iilther- 
Satiii'day 
rdeiis  are 
ire  on  tlic 
the  W.; 
the  Poor- 
Col  h-'e. 
■'Vederick 

atthew's 
'Hteiiant- 
)uildiiioj, 
ler  S  ,  on 
lioniely 
ilies  and 


the  lower 

whifli  is 

^I'c'liilk'd- 

losifion  is 

linv  but 

ins  I'oiild 

lifer  liar- 

K'  of  bat- 

isaiit. 

piscopal 

unerous 

V/y,  near 

he  was 

for  the 


HALIFAX. 


Iluufr.  VJ.      99 


I 


Iil)eral  edueatlon  ol  \onni;  nu'ii  who  did  not  wish  to  j^o  (or  were  dehnrreil 
from  ^,'<tinf;)  to  Kiiij;'s  ('olIt';,'e,  at  Windsor.  Its  aneient  halls,  at  Duke 
unri  iJarrin^'ton  Sis.,  were  denioli!«hed  in  1887,  to  make  room  for  the  new 
city  buildings. 

In  the  suiiinior  of  1741  \\w  pn-at  Fr»'n«'h  Arniaila  willed  from  Tln'st  to  conquer  the 
nrlrish  North-Aiiicriian  coast  from  Virginia  to  Nt-wtouinliund  It  was  conniiaiiilt'd 
by  tho  Duke  <l"Anviiic,aiiil  was  coiiipo-nl  df  the  iiin'-(it-liattl»>  sliips  Tridmt,  Ar-lfht, 
Murs^MwX  /l/r;V/^,  t'i4  K"""  each  ;  tlu-  \intliii>nhirtniiil,  C<iriLon,Titfrf,  l^oimnl ,n\\iX 
li'  t\iinitn6i,W  nuns  each;  tlic  Diditmnl,  ft»  \  Mmen,  Ho  ;  AraoHUUti  ,2i')\  I'rnire 
d'  Or(ini(f,'2*);  tlie  I'lirjhit,  M^nurt,  hiiiu,  (i  irons,  Pt-rlf,  ami  2'J  other  fripites, 
witii  yu  transports,  carr.viu);  an  army  of  ;j,ir)0  soldiers.  D'Anvihe's  orders  were  to 
"  occupy  liouisliourtr,  to  reduce  Nova  .S-otin,  to  destroy  Hostoii,  and  ravage  th<t 
roast  of  New  Knulaiid."  Tiie  Armada  was  (jispersed,  iiowtvcr,  tiy  a  succesNion  of 
unparalleieil  and  disastrous  storms,  and  D'Anville  readied  Chebucto  Hay  (Halifax) 
on  Sept.  10,  witli  only  2  ships  of  tlio  line  and  a  few  transports.  Six  days  liter  too 
unfortunate  Duke  died  of  apoplexy,  induced  by  ^:ricf  and  distn-ss  on  account  of  tlio 
disasters  wliicli  his  enterprise  liadHUfTered.  The  Vice-Aiimiral  D'Kstournello  com- 
mitted suicide  a  few  days  l:iter.  Some  other  vessels  now  arrivid  here,  and  immense 
barracks  were  cnrteil  ulonj^  the  Ueilfonl  Hasin.  1,2(H»  men  hail  died  from  scurvy  on 
the  outward  voyajfe,  and  the  cami)s  were  ^oon  turned  into  hospitals.  Over  1,(K)0 
French  soldiers  and  2-'M)  Micmac  Indians  died  aroiuid  the  IJasin  and  were  buiied 
near  its  quiet  waters.  Oct.  IJJ,  the  French  licet,  numberin),'  5  ships  of  the  line 
and  2')  fri;^ates  and  transports,  sailed  from  Halifax,  intending  to  attack  Annapolis 
Uo.al ;  but  anotlier  terrible  storm  arose,  while  the  vessels  were  olT  (.'ape  Sable,  and 
Hcattered  the  remains  of  the  Armada  in  such  wide  confusion  tliat  tliey  were  obliged 
to  n'fire  from  the  .\nierican  waters. 

The  Indians  called  llalifix  harbor  Chfbucto,  meaning  "the  chief  luiven,"  and  tho 
French  muned  it  La  Buie  Siine,  "on  account  of  the  salubrity  of  tiic  air." 

In  the  year  1748  the  Hritish  Lords  of  Trale,  incited  i)y  the  people  of  Massachu- 
setts, determined  to  found  a  city  on  tin?  f'oast  of  Nova  Scotia,  partly  in  prospect  of 
conunercial  advantaf^cs,  and  partly  to  keep  the  Acadiaris  in  check.  Parliament 
voteil  t;4(),0lX)  for  tiiis  purpose;  and  on  .hoie  21,  174!),  a  fleet  of  13  transports 
and  the  sloop-of-war  .S/i/((»ix  arrived  in  the  designated  harl)or,  beariu}.;  2,'j7l>  cokv 
nists  (of  whom  over  1,5U0  were  men).  The  city  was  laid  out  in  .July, and  was  named 
in  lu)rK)r  of  (leorge  Montagu,  Earl  of  Halifax,  the  lu!al  of  the  Lords  of  Trade.  Tho 
Acadians  and  the  Inilians  soon  sent  in  their  subnussion;  but  in  17ul  the  suburb  of 
Dartmoutii  was  at  tacked  at  night  by  the  latter,  and  manyof  its  citizens  were  massacred. 
500  (iennans  settled  lure  in  17.Vi-52,  but  it  was  found  diillcuU  to  preserve  the  col- 
ony, since  so  many  of  its  citizens  pas.sedov(>r  tothe  New-Kngland  Provinces.  Tho  great 
tleets  and  armies  of  Loudon  and  Wolfo  concentrated  hero  before  advancing  against 
Lonisboiirg  and  Quebec  ;  and  the  city  afterwards  grew  in  importance  as  a  naval  sta- 
tion, llciiresentative  government  was  established  in  1758,  and  the  Parliament  of 
1770  reniamed  in  session  for  14  years,  while  Halifax  was  made  one  of  tho  cliief  sca- 
tious  whence  the  royal  forces  were  directtMl  upon  the  insurgent  American  colonies. 
After  the  close  of  tlie  Revolutionary  War,  many  thousands  of  exiled  Loyalists  took 
refug(f  here ;  and  the  wooden  walls  and  towers  with  which  the  city  had  been  forti- 
lied  were  replaced  with  more  formidible  defences  by  I'rince  Edward. 

The  ancient  p:ilisad(vwall  included  the  space  between  the  present  Salter,  Barring- 
ton,  and  .Jacob  Strt'cts,  and  the  hirbor ;  and  its  citadel  was  the  small  (jrovernment 
House,  on  the  site  of  the  present  L'arliament  Building,  which  was  surrounded  witn 
hogsheads  tilled  with  sand,  over  wliich  light  cannons  were  displayed. 

The  growtli  of  H.ilifax  tluring  the  present  century  has  been  very  slow,  in  view  of 
its  great  commerci  il  advantages  and  pos.-ibilities.  The  presence  of  large  bodies  of 
troops,  and  tiie  .semi-military  regime  of  a  g.irri.son-town,  have  had  a  certain  effect  in 
dii.idening  the  energy  of  tile  citizi'us.  (irc.it  sums  of  money  were,  however,  made 
here  during  the  American  civil  war,  when  the  sympathies  of  the  llaligonians  were 
warndy  enlisted  in  fivor  of  the  revolted  States,  and  many  blockade-runners  sailed 
hence  to  rcai)  rich  harvests  in  the  Sovithern  ports.  The  cessation  of  the  war  put  a 
stop  to  tills  lucrative  tnnle;  but  it  i.-;  Jiow  hoped  that  the  oompletiuu  of  tie  inter- 
colonial Hallway  to  St.  .John  and  Quebec  will  greatly  benefit  Halifax.  Tliere  is  a 
rivalry  between  St.  John  and  Halifax  which  resembles  that  iietween  Chicago  and  St. 
Louis,  and  leads  to  similar  journalistic  tournaments.     St.  John  claims  that  she  has 


I 


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...  t  w 
'I  i"-'} 

4m 


100       Route  W.    THE  ENVIRONS  OF  HALIFAX. 

a  flrst-clftfis  hotel  and  a  theatre,  which  Halifax  has  not ;  and  the  Nova-Scof  ian  city 
answers,  in  return,  that  she  has  the  best  cricket-club  and  the  champion  oarsman  of 
America. 

Sir  William  Fenwick  Williams,  of  Kars,  Bart.,  K.  0.  B.,  D.C.  L.,  was  born  at  Hali- 
fax in  1800.  After  servinj;  in  Ceylon,  Turkey, and  l*er.»*ia,  he  instructed  the  Moslem 
artillery,  and  fortified  the  city  of  Kars.  Here  he  was  besieged  by  tlie  Russians,  under 
Gen.  Mouravietr.  He  dcfoiited  the  enemy  near  the  city,  but  was  forced  to  surrender 
after  a  heroic  d«!fence  of  six  niontlis,  bein^;  a  sjicrifice  to  British  diplomacy.  He  was 
afterwards  Conunander  of  the  Forces  in  Canada. 

Admiral  Sir  Trovo  Wallis  was  born  at  Halifax  in  1791,  and  was  early  engaged  in 
the  great  battle  between  the  Cleopatra,  32.  and  the  French  Ville  de  Miian,  4<).  He 
afterwards  served  on  tbe  Curieux,  tiie  Gloire,  and  the  Shannon,  to  whose  command 
he  succeeded  after  the  battle  with  the  Chesapeake. 

20.    The  Environs  of  Halifax. 

The  favorite  drive  from  Halifax  is  to  the  Four-Mile  Jlovse,  and  along 
the  shores  of  the  *  Bedford  Babin.  This  noble  sheet  of  Avatcr  is  5  M.  long 
and  1-3  M.  Avide,  with  from  8  to  3G  fathoms  of  depth.  It  is  entered  by 
way  of  the  Narrows,  a  passage  2i^  -3  M.  long  and  ^  ]\I.  -wide,  leading  from 
Halifax  Harbor.  It  is  bordered  on  all  sides  by  bold  hills  200-330  ft.  ia 
height,  between  which  are  10  square  miles  of  .secure  anchoring-gromid. 
The  village  of  Bedford  is  on  the  W.  shore,  and  has  several  summer  hotels 
(Bellevue,  Seaview,  etc.).  The  steamer  Goliah  leaves  Halifax  for  Bedford 
at  11  A.  M.  and  2  P.  M.  daily.  During  the  summer  the  light  vessels  of  tho 
Royal  Halifax  Yacht  Club  are  seen  in  the  Basin  daily ;  and  exciting  rowing- 
matches  sometimes  come  off  near  the  Four-Mile  House. 

Along  the  shores  of  tho  Bedford  Basin  were  the  mournful  camps  and  hospitnln  of 
the  French  Armada,  in  174G,  and  1,3.]J  men  were  bmicd  there.  Tl;cir  remtiiiir.  were 
found  by  eubsequenl  settlers.  Tlie  tir.st  pcrman-iut  colonies  along  these  shores  were 
made  by  Massachusetts  Loyalists  in  1784. 

HammoncTs  Plains  are  7  M.  W.  of  Bedford,  and  were  settled  in  1815  by  sl.ives 
brought  away  from  the  shores  of  Maryland  and  Virginia  by  th<;  British  fleet'..  Tl.is 
is,  like  the  other  villages  of  freed  blacks  throughout  the  Provitito,  dirfy  and  dil:.]  i- 
dated  to  the  last  degree.  To  tho  N.  W.  is  the  Pockwock  Lake,  4  M.  long,  with  di- 
versified shores,  and  abounding  in  trout. 

*'  The  road  to  Point  Pleasant  is  a  favorite  promenade  in  the  long  Acadiui 
twilights.  Midway  between  the  city  and  the  Point  lies  '  Kissing  Dn('p-o,' 
which  the  Haliftix  maidens  sometimes  pass  over.  Who  gathers  toll  nobody 
knows,  but  —  " 

Point  Pleasant  projects  between  the  harbor  and  the  N.  W.  Arm,  and  is 
covered  with  pretty  groves  of  evei'green  trees,  threaded  by  narrow  ror.ds, 
and  now  laid  out  for  a  public  park.     The  principal  fortification  is 

Fort  Ogihie,  a  garrisoned  post,  whose  artillery  commands  the  channel. 
A  short  distance  to  the  W.  is  the  antiquated  structure  called  ihc  Prince  of 
Wales's  Tower,  from  which  fine  views  are  afforded.  The  Point  Pleasant 
Battery  is  near  the  water's  edge,  and  is  intended  to  sweep  the  outer 
passage. 

The  Northwest  Arm  is  4  M.  long  and  ^  M.  Avide,  and  is  a  river-Ilka 
inlet,  which  runs  N.  W.  from  the  harbor  to  within  2  M.  of  the  Bedford  Basin. 


DARTMOUTH. 


JimUe  21. 


101 


;n(lpv,' 


and  is 

roiids, 

Lit  ion  is 

itiniicl. 

ince  of 

■'lensant 

outer 


Its  shores  are  hij^h  and  picturesque,  and  on  the  Halifax  side  are  several 
fine  mansiDus,  surrounded  by  ornauieiital  grounds.  In  the  upper  part  of 
the  Arm  is  Mdville  Islnrul,  where  American  prisoners  were  kept  during 
the  War  of  1812.  Ftryiisoii's  Cove  is  a  picturesque  village  on  the  N.  W. 
Arm,  inhabited  chiefly  by  fishermen  and  pilots. 

The  steamer  Mkiiutc  niiikes  regular  trips  during  the  summer  up  the 
N.  W.  Arm,  and  to  AlcNub's  Island,  which  is  3  M.  long,  and  has  a  sum- 
mer hotel  and  some  heavy  military  works,  Avith  Meagher's  IJeach  and  the 
Mditary  Range.  On  Lawler's  Island  is  the  Quarantine  Hospital.  The 
fortress  on  George's  Island  is  the  key  of  the  harbor. 

Dartmoutll  {Acadian  House)  is  situated  on  the  harbor,  opposite  the  city 
of  Halifax,  to  which  a  steam  ferry-boat  makes  frequent  trips.  It  has  sev- 
eral pretty  villas  belonging  to  Halifax  merchants ;  and  at  about  ^  M.  from 
the  villHge  is  the  spacious  and  imposing  buiUiing  of  the  Mount  Hope  Asylum 
for  the  Insane,  a  long,  castellated  granite  building  which  overlooks  the 
harbor.  Dartmouth  has  4,358  inhabitants  and  5  churches,  and  derives 
prosperity  from  the  working  of  several  foundries  and  steam-tanneries.  It 
is  al.  ">  the  seat  of  the  Chebucto  Marine  Railway.  This  town  was  founded 
in  17o0,  but  was  soon  afterwards  destroyed,  with  some  of  its  people,  by  the 
Ind'ans.  In  1784  it  was  reoccupied  by  men  of  Nantucket  who  preferred 
roj-alism  to  republicanism.  The  Montafjue  Gold-Mlnes  are  4  M.  from 
Dartmouth,  and  have  yielded  in  paying  quantities.  Cow  Bay  is  a  few  miles 
S.  E.  of  Dartmouth,  and  is  much  visited,  in  summer,  on  account  of  its  fine 
marine  scenery  and  the  facilities  for  bathing.  The  Dartvioiith  Lakes  com- 
mence within  1  M.  of  the  town,  and  were  formerly  a  favorite  resort  of 
sportsmen,  but  are  now  nearly  fished  out. 

21.   The  Basin  of  Minas.— Halifax  to  St.  John. 

Halifax  to  Windsor,  soe  Route  18  (in  revprsc). 

The  stt-amboiit-route  from  Windsor  to  St.  .lohn  is  here  described.  Steamboats 
ply  between  Kingsport,  llautsport,  and  rarrsboro". 

As  the  steamer  moves  out  from  her  wharf  at  Windsor,  a  pleasant  view 
is  afforded  of  the  old  college  town  astern,  with  the  farming  village  of  Fal- 
mouth on  the  1.,  and  shipbuilding  Newport  on  the  r.,  beyond  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Croix  River.  The  shores  are  high  and  ridgy,  and  the  mouth  of 
the  Kennetcook  River  is  passed  (on  the  r.)  about  5  M.  below  Windsor. 
2-3  M.  below  is  Ilantsport  (1.  bank),  a  thriving  marine  village  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  Cockmigon  River.  On  Horton  Bluff  (1.  bank)  is  a  light- 
liouse  which  sustains  a  powerful  fixed  white  light,  visible  for  20  M.,  and 
beyond  this  point  the  steamer  enters  the  *  Basin  of  Minas.  On  the  1.  are 
the  low  ridges  of  Long  Island  and  Boot  Island,  rising  on  the  margin  of  a 
wide  and  verdant  meadow.  The  meadow  is  Grand  Pr6,  the  land  of 
Evangeline  (see  Route  22).    Mile  after  mile  the  fertile  plains  of  Cornwallis 


I 


n 


i 


102       Route  21. 


CAPE   IJLOMIDON. 


'■•■A 


^  *',;■< 


m 


K.v 


'. 


OjuMi  Oil  tlio  I.,  l)<)iiii(l('(I  by  tlie  Ilorton  hills  and  tlio  diirk  lino  of  \\w  North 
Mt.  In  iiilvnncc  is  tlio  hold  and  tdcar-iMit  outline  of  ('iipci  Hloniidnii, 
broodinjx  over  tlio  wafor,  and  on  tlio  r.  aiv  tla^  low  hut  wcll-dcdncd  iilulls 
of  Cfiiririi',  rich  in  jiypsuni  and  linicstoui*.  It  is  ahout  li2  M.  from  tlio 
month  ol"  till'  Avon  to  I'arr.-horo',  and  tho  I'ouive  of  tlie  steamer  eontiun- 
ally  approaehes  Hltunidon. 

Capo  Hhtiiitdoii  is  ii  vast  jircciiiicc  of  ird  sinulstouc  of  the  Trinssic  crn,  witli 
ptnmn-  marks  of  Vdlcaiiic  action.  " 'I'lic  dark  liasaUic  wall,  inviTiil  witli  thick 
voDtls,  the  terrace  el'  niiiVfrdaldid,  witii  a  luxisriaiit  friowtli  of  linlit-irreeit  slinilis 
mid  VDUng  tn'es  that  rajiidly  spriiij;  u|>  on  its  rich  and  Ill(li^t  surli.<  e,  the  |ne(iiiiie 
<r  hri^iit   red  sandstone,  al\\a\s  citan  and  IVesh,  and  coiilia>lin^  s-froiiulN   with  tlie 

li'ap  ahove consiitute  a  ('oiuliinalion  ot  t'orms  and  (olors  ((|nall\  striking;,  if 

feeu  in  tlie  distance  Iroiii  tlie  hills  ot  llortun  or  I'arrsliuro",  or  more  nearly  h'oni 
the  sea  or  the  stony  head)  at  its  hase.  Hlon  idon  is  a  s( cne  never  to  I  c  lor^^otfcn  hy 
II  traveller  \n1io  has  wandered  around  its  shores  or  (lamlered  on  its  ^Iddv  iu<ci- 
Jiices.'"  The  ea)H>  is  aliout  ATOlt.  hi}ih,and  jiresi'iits  an  interesting  ^i^J:llt  when  its 
dark-red  sinnmit  is  peeriiifi  ahovi-  thewliite  sca-l'ofjs.  Sir  William  li\ell,  thetuii- 
lieiit  15ritish  neolojiist,  madea(arctul  study  ot'tiie  ))heiiomena  of  this  vicinity. 

Tlie  Indian  lijjjend  says  that  lUon  idon  was  n'ade  hy  the  divine  (ilooscjij),  wdio 
broke  the  irreat  heaver-dam  oil' this  shore  and  swni:;;-  its  end  around  into  its  present 
l>osition.  Atterwards  he  crossed  to  tlH>  iicw-nadc  c!i]ii>  ar.d  strewed  its  slopes  with 
the  iienis  that  nrv  loiind  thcie  to-day  ,  cai'r\  inp;  thence  a  set  of  I'are  ornaments  for 
his  ancient  and  mysterious  leniale  companion.  'I'hc  hciclieciit  cliiel  hroke  away  tho 
beaver-d;ini  hecause  it  was  lloodir.u'  all  the  Cornwallis  ^■alle,\  ,aiid  in  his  eonllict  with 
the  (ireat  !>eav(>r  he  threw  at  him  liup-  mas.'-cs  of  rock  and  caitli,  which  are  tho 
pn>seiit  Five  Islands.  W.  of  I'iki  iiinnhitcli  (lUouiidon)  the  end  of  the  dam  swept 
around  and  heemuo  Plersiin  (('ape  Split). 

As  Bloniidon  is  loft  on  the  jiort  hcani,  the  stcanior  hurries  across  tho 
rapid  currents  of  the  outlet  of  the  Btisin.  In  front  is  seen  the  white  vil- 
la<;;e  of  rtuTshoro',  backed  by  the  dark  undidations  of  the  Cohequid  iMts. 
Just  before  reaching;-  I'arrsboro'  the  vessel  appnnu'hes  and  passes  J\ir- 
tvhJije.  hlaiul  (on  the  1.),  !>  sinjruhir  insulated  hill  2r)0  ft.  high,  and  con- 
nected with  the  niainlaml  at  low  tide  hy  a  narrow  lieacli. 

Partridjre  Islaiid  was  the  Puloirrrli  nTinui^ao  of  the  Micmacs,  and  was  n  favorite 
location  for  ]ei;ends  of  (ilooscap.  On  his  last  great  journey  from  IMewfoiindland  l)y 
Pictou  throujrh  .Vcadia  and  into  the  uidsiiown  West,  he  hiiilt  ii  {irand  road  from 
Fort  rumheriand  to  this  shore  for  the  use  of  his  weary  companions.  This  miracu- 
lously firmed  ridire  is  now  occupied  hy  the  post-roail  to  the  N.  W.,  and  is  calkd  l)y 
tJie  Indians  Oicicdkini  (t\\v  catiseway).  .\t  I'artridfie  Island  (ilooscap  had  his  cel- 
ebrated revel  with  the  supernatural  Kit-poos-e-ajr-unow ,  the  deliverer  of  all  op- 
pi'es.^cd,  who  was  taken  out  alive  from  his  mother  (slain  hy  a  pantl,  was  thrown 
into  a  well,  and,  heiiis;  miraculously  ]ireserved  there,  came  forth  in  due  time  to  fulfil 
his  liiirh  ihity  to  men.  Th(>st>  marvellous  friends  went  out  on  the  Hasin  in  a  stone 
canoe  to  tish  hy  torchliurht,  and,  after  eruisiii);  over  the  dark  waters  for  some  time, 
ppeared  a  monstrous  whale.  They  tossed  him  into  the  canoe  "  as  thouy;h  he  were  a 
tn)ut,"  and  madt  for  tlie  shore,  where,  in  their  hrotberly  feast,  the  whale  was  en- 
tirely devoured. 

Parrsboro'  (two  inns)  is  prettily  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  river, 
and  under  the  shelter  of  Partridjre  Island.  It  h:is  about  'JOO  inhabitii.ts, 
■with  five  churches,  and  is  engaired  in  the  bimber-trade.  The  beauty  of 
the  situiifon  and  the  views,  together  with  the  siiortinji  facilities  in  the 
bnck-couiiiry,  have  made  Parrsboi-o'  a  pleasure  resort  of  considerable  re- 
pute, and  the  neat  hotel  called  the  Summer  House  is  well  patronized.  This 
is  one  of  the  best  points  from  which  to  enter  the  fine  hunting  and  fishing 


PARUSHORO' 


Jioute  2L.     1 0;5 


tho  Nortli 
UI()iiii<l()M, 
ii«'(l  hliiUs 
.  from  tlio 
r  c'oiifimi- 


'•ic  orn,  with 
witli  thick 
rccii  sliriilis 
lie  luct  i|ii(  <• 
k1\  with  till! 
stiikiiifj,  if 

lH'illl.\    tl'OIU 

t(ir;i(itt(ii  hy 
j;iilit\  |in('i- 
rht  \\lirii  its 
ell,  tliv  tuii- 
icinity. 
(tdsc!!]),  who 
()  its  prcst'iit 
;  slopes  witii 
•iiMiiiciits  for 
ikc  away  tlio 
loiiliict  with 
liich  arc  tho 
)  daui  .swi'pt 

Mcniss  tho 
'  white  vil- 
('{juid  jMts. 
iisses  Par- 
iind  coii- 


s  a  favorite 
luelhmil  hy 

road  from 

is  iiiiracii- 
is  callnl  by 
lad  liis  col- 

of  all  op- 
was  tlirown 
nic  to  fulfil 
1  in  a  stone 

son\e  time, 
h  ho  wore  a 
lale  was  eu- 

ninll  rivor, 

h!U)it!l.:tS, 

botiuty  of 
:ios  in  the 
l(M'!ib]e  re- 
Ized.  Tills 
nd  fishing 


districts  of  ('iiiiibcrliuid  County,  and  ^^'uidos  and  outfits  may  be  Hecurcd. 
ThtTo  ar<!  (I  b()ardin^-hoiiM.'.s  hero,  and  '1  al  rartnd;;!!  Island.  I'lio  railroad 
from  I'arr.sboro'  to  Spriiif:;-liill  .liinctidu  ('-Vl  M.),  on  tin;  Inlorcolonial  lino, 
runs  through  tho  bust  scciiory  of  tho  (Jobo([ui(l  Mts. 

"  Parrsboro'  cnjovH  more  than  its  share  of  broad,  (jravelly  beach,  overliunff  with 
clifted  and  woody  hlulTs,  One  fresh  from  the  dead  walls  of  a  ^ji'eat  city  would  be  dc- 
•ijjhtcd  with  tiie  sylvan  shores  of  I'arrshoro'.  The  beach,  with  all  its  lireadfh.  a 
miracle  of  pelihly  hcaiitv,  slants  steeplv  to  the  sin-f,  wliicli  is  now  rolling  up  in  cori- 
injjf  clouds  of  frreen  and  while.  Here  we  turn  we.-tward  into  the  threat  bav  it.-e|f, 
Hoinn  with  a  tid(!  that  rushes  like  a,  inii;;hty  river  toward  a,  cataract,  whirlin;.',  boil- 
inj;,  breakin^j;  in  half-moons  of  crispy  foam."    (b.  L.  N'oiU,i;.) 

"  I'leasant  I'arrshoro",  with  its  ureeii  liills,  neat  cottajres,  and  sloping?  sliores  lav(Ml 
by  tlie  sea,  wlien  the  tide  is  full,  but  wearin|.c  (luite  a  dillereiit  aspect  when  tlie  tid« 
goes  out  .  for  then  it  is  left  pei'ched  thirty  feet.  Iii;;h  upon  a  red  clay  blulb  and  the 
fishin|.(-boats  wiiicli  were  aljoat  before  are  careen<-d  upon  their  beam  ends,  hi^;h  and 
(h\v  out  of  water.  The  louf^  ma-^.'-ive  pier  at  which  the  stcNinilioat  lately  lancle(|, 
hfts  up  its  nake(l  hulk  of  ti'e(.'-nail(>i[  lofjs,  reekint^  with  green  oowand  .-ea-wced  :  and 
a  hi;;li  conical  island  which  constitutes  the  chief  featmc  «d'  the  laud.-cape  is  trans- 
formed into  a  liold  jiromontory,  connected  witli  the  mainland  by  a  luige  ridg<!  of 
briek-red  clay."     (lI.vi.i-ocK.) 

Oentlemou  who  ar<^  intercsteil  in  geological  studies  will  liave  a  rare  chance  to  make 
collections  alxiut  l'arrs)ior()'  and  tlw  shores  of  Minas.  'I'he  most  favorable  time  i.^ 
when  the  blulfs  hav(>  been  crackeij  and  seale(|  l)y  i-ecent  frosts  ;  or  just  after  the  close 
of  the  winter,  when  muidi  fVesli  ilrhris  is  found  at  the  foot  of  tin;  clills.  Among  tho 
minerals  on  Partridge;  island  are:  analcime,  apophyllite,  amethyst,  agafc!,  apatite, 
ealcite  (al)undant,  in  yellow  crystals"),  chabazite,  chalcedony,  cafs-eye,  gypsum, 
liematite,  heulandite,  magnetite,  stilhite  (very  abundant),  jasjHT,  (•;icholong,  ofial, 
Bemi-opal,  ami  golil-lu-aring  (|uart/..  Aixiut  ('a,p(!  Hloundon  are  foiuid  anahinie, 
agate,  amethyst,  aiiophyllite.  calciti^,  (^lialcedony,  chaba/ite-gmelinit(;,  far.  elite, 
hematite,  magnetite,  heulandite,  li'umonite,  fibrous  gypsum,  malacliite,  mesolite, 
native  cojjper,  natrolite,  still)it»!,  i)silomelane.  and  (juartz.  Obsidian ,  malachite,  gold, 
and  copper  an;  found  at  Capo  (i"Or;  jasper  and  tim;  tjuartz  crystals,  on  Sjiencer's 
Isl.md  ;  augiti',  amianthus,  pyrites,  and  wad,  at  Parrsl)oro" ;  and  iiotliat  Five  Islands 
and  Scotsman's  Hay  thei-e  an;  beautiful  specimens  of  moss  agate.  At  Cornsvallis 
is  found  the  rare  mineral  called  W'iehtisite  (resembling  ohsiilian,  in  gray  and  deep 
blue;  colors),  which  is  only  known  in  one  other  jdace  on  earth,  at  Wichtis,  in  Kin- 
land.  The  iiurple  and  violet  ([uartz.  or  auK^thyst,  of  tlie  Minas  8lif)res,  is  of  great 
beauty  and  value.  A  Hlouiidon  amethyst  is  in  tlie  crown  of  France;,  and  it  is  now 
270  years  since  the  Sieiir  dc;  .Monts  carried  several  large  amethysts  from  Partridge 
Island  to  Ih'uri  IV.  of  France.  These  gems  are  generally  found  in  geodes,  or  after 
fresh  falls  of  trap-rock. 

Aih'ocate  Tlavhor  and  C<tpe  <r  Or. 

A  daily  staple  runs  W.  from  Parrsboro'  throufrh  f^rand  coast  scenery,  for 
28  M.,  i)assing  the  hamlets  of  Fox  Harbor  and  Port  Grovlllo,  and  stop- 
pinp;  at  Advocate  Harbor.  This  is  a  sequestered  mtirine  luunlet,  devoted 
to  slii[)l)uildin,L:;  tunl  the  deep-sea  fisheries,  and  has  about  600  inliabittints. 
It  is  iibout  00  yi.  from  .\nilierst,  by  a  road  Icadino;  across  the  Cobequid 
Mts.  and  throujih  Apple  River  (see  pajre  80).  Some  of  the  finest  marine 
scenery  in  the  Provinces  is  in  this  vicinity.  3-4  M.  S.  is  the  immense 
rocky  peninsula  of  *  Cape  d'Or,  a!moi?t  cut  otf  from  the  mainland  Ijy  a  deep 
ravine,  in  whose  bottom  tho  salt  tides  f1  iw.  Cape  d'Or  is  500  ft.  Irgh,  and 
has  recently  become  noted  for  its  rich  copper  deposits.  Off  this  point  there 
is  a  heavy  rip  on  the  flood-tide,  which  flows  with  a  velocity  of  6  knots  an 
hour,  and  rises  33-39  ft.    8  M.  W.  of  Advocate  Harbor,  and  visible  across 


m 


n 


t 

k 


.,  i'i 


m.i 


} 


'    l" 


if!  ■<*  ■ 


! 


104      /2o?<<e  SI. 


BASIN  OF  MINAS. 


the  open  bay,  is  *Cape  Chigneoto,  a  wonderful  headlund  of  rock,  730-800 
ft.  high,  ruiiniiip;  down  sheer  into  tlie  deep  waters.  This  mountain-prom- 
ontory marks  the  division  of  the  currents  of  the  Minas  and  Chignecto 
Channels. 

Cape  d'Or  is  Rometimen  calh'd  Cap  Dorr  on  the  ancient  maps,  and  received  its 
name  on  account  of  the  copjier  ore  which  was  found  hijre  by  tlie  early  Frencli  ex- 
plorers, and  was  supposed  to  be  f^old.  The  Acadians  afterwards  openeci  mires  here, 
and  tlie  name,  L>s  Mines,  ori{ruuilly  ai)i)hed  to  a  part  of  this  shore,  wnspiven  to  the 
noble  salt-water  hike  to  the  E.  Minns  is  either  an  Enplisii  modification  or  the 
Spanish  equivalent  thereof  t!ape  d"Or  was  granted  to  the  Dulic  of  Chandos  many 
years  ago,  but  he  did  not  continue  the  mining  operations. 


After  leaving  Parrsboro'  the  steamer  runs  W.  through  the  passage  be- 
tween Cape  Blomidon  and  Cape  Sharp,  which  is  3^  M.  wide,  and  is  swept 
by  the  tide  at  the  rate  of  6-8  knots  an  hour.  On  the  r.  the  ravines  of 
Diligent  River  and  Fox  River  break  ^he  iron-bound  coasts  of  Cumberland 
County;  and  on  the  1.  is  a  remarkable  promontory,  7  M.  long  and  1  M. 
wide,  with  an  altitude  of  400  feet,  running  W.  from  Blomidon  l)etwcen 
the  channel  and  the  semicircular  bight  of  Scotsman's  Bay.  Cope  Split 
is  the  end  of  this  sea-dividing  mountain,  beyond  which  the  S.  shores 
fall  suddenly  away,  and  the  steamer  enters  the  Minas  Channel.  12  M. 
beyond  Cape  Split,  Spencer's  Island  and  Cape  Spencer  are  passed  on  the 
N.,  beyond  which  are  the  massive  cliffs  of  Cape  d'Or.  On  the  1.  are  the 
unvarying  ridges  of  the  North  Mt.,  with  ol)scure  fishing-hamlets  along 
the  shore.  To  the  N.  the  frowning  mass  of  Cape  CkUjntcto  is  seen;  and 
the  course  passes  within  sight  of  the  lofty  and  lonely  rock  of  hh  Haute, 
v/hich  is  7  Al.  from  the  nearest  shore.  It  is  1^  M.  long  and  350  ft.  high, 
and  is  exactly  intersected  by  the  parallel  of  65'  W.  from  Greenwich. 

The  steamer  now  passes  down  over  the  open  waters  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy. 
St  John  is  about  62  nautical  miles  from  Isle  Haute,  in  a  straight  line,  and 
is  a  little  N.  of  W.  from  that  point,  but  the  exigencies  of  navigation  re- 
quire a  course  considerably  longer  and  more  southerly.  This  portion  of 
the  route  is. usually  traversed  at  night,  and  soon  after  passing  the  powerful 
first-class  red  revolving-light  on  Cape  Spencer(Ke\s  Brunswick),  the  steamer 
runs  in  by  the  Partridge-Island  light,  and  enters  the  harbor  of  St.  John 
about  the  break  of  day. 

St.  John,  see  page  15. 

The  Basin  of  Minas. 

The  steamer  leaves  Parrsboro'  daily,  for  the  villages  on  the  N.  and 

E.  shores  of  the  Basin  of  Minas.  As  the  times  of  her  departure  are  very  irregular, 
owing  to  the  necessity  of  following  the  tide,  and  her  landings  vary  according  to  cir- 
cumstances, the  following  account  relates  to  the  line  of  the  coast  rather  than  to  her 
route.  She  is  announced  to  call  at  Parrsboro',  Londonderry,  Maitlaud,  Kingsport, 
Summerviile,  aud  WiuuBor. 

Soon  after  leaving  Parrsboro',  Frazer^s  Head  is  passed  on  the  1.,  with 
its  cliffs  elevated  nearly  400  feet  above  the  water.    About  15  M    E.  of 


BASIN  OF  MINAS. 


Route  21.      105 


Parrsboro'  are  the  remarkable  insulated  peaks  of  the  *  Five  Islands,  the 
chief  of  which  is  350  ft.  high,  rising  from  the  waters  of  the  Basin.  On  tlio 
adjacent  shore  is  the  village  of  Five  Islands,  occupying  a  very  picturesque 
position,  and  containing  600  inhabitants.  In  this  vicinity  are  found  iron, 
copper,  and  plumbago,  and  white-lead  is  extracted  in  considerable  quan- 
tities from  minerals  mined  among  the  hills.  Marble  was  formerly  produced 
here,  but  the  quarries  are  now  abandoned.  The  massive  ridge  variously 
known  as  Mt.  Gerrish,  St.  Peter's  Mt.,  and  Red  Head,  looms  over  the  vil- 
lage to  a  height  of  500  ft.,  having  a  singularly  bold  and  alpine  character 
for  so  small  "u  elevation.  On  its  lower  slopes  are  found  pockets  containing 
fine  barytes,  of  which  large  quantities  are  sent  to  the  United  States.  A 
mass  of  over  150  pounds'  weight  was  sent  from  this  place  to  the  Paris  p]x- 
position  of  1867.  A  few  miles  \V.  of  the  village  are  the  falls  on  the  North 
River,  which  are  90  ft.  high;  and  to  the  N.  is  the  wild  and  picturesque 
scenery  of  the  Cobequid  Mts.  Stages  run  from  Londonderry  Station  to 
Five  Islaiuls,  which  is  indeed  one  of  the  lovili'st  spots  in  Canada.  The 
sea-beach  is  magnificent,  and  tlie  facilities  for  bathing  and  boating  ex- 
cellent.    Broderick's  Hotel  commands  the  finest  part  of  the  shore. 

"  Before  them  lay  the  outlines  of  Five  Islands,  rising  beautifully  out  of  the  water 

between  them  and  the  mainland The  two  more  distant  were  rounded  and 

well  wooded;  the  third,  which  was  midway  among  the  group,  had  lofly,  precipitous 
sides,  and  the  summit  was  dome-shaped ;  the  fourth  was  like  a  table,  rising  with 
perpendicular  sides  to  the  height  of  200  ft  ,  with  a  flat,  level  surface  above,  wliich 
was  all  overgrown  with  forest  trees.  The  last,  and  nearest  of  the  group,  was  by  far 
the  most  singular.  It  wtw  a  bare  rock  which  ro><e  irregularly  from  the  ^ea,  termi- 
nating at  one  end  in  a  peak  which  rose  about  200  ft.  in  the  air It  resembled, 

more  than  anything  else,  a  vast  cathedral  rising  out  of  the  sea,  the  chief  ma-ss  of  the 
rock  corresponding  with  the  main  part  of  the  cathedral,  while  the  tower  and  spire 
were  there  in  all  their  majesty.     For  this  cause  the  rock  has  received  the  name  of 

Pinnacle  Island At  its  base  they  saw  the  white  foam  of  breaking  surf;  while 

far  on  high  around  its  lofty,  tempest-beaten  summit,  they  saw  myriads  of  sea-gulls. 
Gathering  in  great  white  clouds  about  this  place,  they  siiorted  and  chased  one  an- 
other ;  they  screamed  and  uttered  their  shrill  yells,  which  sounded  afar  over  the 
sea."    (DeMille.) 

10  M.  beyond  these  islands  'die  steamer  passes  the  lofty  and  far-project- 
ing peninsula  of  Economy^  Pointy  and  enters  the  Cobequid  Bay  (which 
ascends  to  Truro,  a  distance  of  36  M. ).  After  touching  at  Londonderry, 
on  the  N.  shore,  the  steamer  crosses  the  bay  to  Mnit.hnd  (two  inns),  a 
busy  and  prosperous  shipbuilding  village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Shubenacadie 
River  (see  page  82). 

The  S.  shore  of  the  Basin  of  Minas  is  lined  with  bluflfs  100-180  ft.  high, 
but  is  far  less  Imposing  than  the  N.  shore.  Noel  is  about  15  M.  W.  of 
Maitland,  and  is  situated  on  a  pretty  little  bay  between  Noel  Head  and 
Burnt-Coat  Head.  It  has  300  inhabitants,  and  produces  the  mineral  called 
terra  alba,  used  in  bleaching  cottons.  It  is  not  found  elsewhere  in  Amer- 
ica.   Atler  leaving  Noel  Bay  and  passing  the  lighthouse  on  Burnt-Coat 


1  Eronomy  is  derived  from  the  Indian  name  Kenomee,  which  was  applied  to  the  same 
place,  and  means  "  San.'iy  Point." 

5* 


I-  '  I 


106      lioide  21. 


BASIN  OF   MINAS. 


Bead,  the  trend  of  the  coast  is  followed  to  the  S.  W.  for  ahout  20  M.  to 
Walton,  a  viUapie  of  600  inhabitants,  at  the  mouth  of  tlie  La  Tete  Kiver. 
Many  tlionsand  tons  of  frypsnin  and  plaster  of  l*arls  (calcined  frypsnin)are 
anniuilly  shijiped  from  this  jjort  to  the  United  States.  Immense  ([uantities 
are  exported  also  from  the  coasts  of  C/riririe,  \vliicli  extend  from  Walton 
S.  W.  to  the  month  of  tlie  Avon  River.  The  w  hole  back  country  is  com- 
posed of  limestone  soil  and  gypsum-beds,  whose  mining  and  shipment 
form  an  industry  of  increasing  importance.  Beyond  tlie  Chi^-irie  coast  the 
steamer  ascends  the  Avon  Kiver  to  Windsor. 

The  Basin  of  Minas  was  the  favorite  home  of  Glooscap,  the  Hiawatha  of  the  Mic- 
macs,  whose  traditions  describe  iiiui  as  an  envoy  from  tlie  Great  Spirit,  who  liad  the 
form  and  liabitsofliunianity,  but  was  exalted  above  all  peri!  and  sickness  and  death. 
He  dwelt  apart  and  above,  in  a  great  wigwam,  and  was  attended  by  an  old  woman 
and  a  beautiful  youth,  and  "  was  never  very  far  from  any  one  of  them,"  who  re- 
ceived his  counsels  His  power  was  unljounded  and  supernatural,  and  was  wielded 
against  the  enchantments  of  the  magicians,  while  his  wisdom  taught  the  Indians 
how  to  hunt  and  fish,  to  heal  diseases,  and  to  build  wigwams  and  cano<'S.  He 
named  the  constellations  in  the  heavens,  and  many  of  the  chief  points  on  the  Acadian 
shores.  The  Basin  of  Minas  was  his  beaver-pond;  Cape  Split  was  the  bulwark  of 
the  d^m  ;  and  Spencer's  Island  is  his  overturned  kettle.  He  controlled  the  ele- 
ment^, and  by  his  magic  wand  led  the  caribou  and  the  bear  to  his  throne.  The 
allied  jjowers  of  evil  advanced  with  immen>e  hosts  to  overthrow  iiis  great  wigwam 
and  break  his  power ;  but  he  extniguished  their  canip-fires  by  night  and  summoned 
the  spirits  of  the  frost  by  whose  endeavors  the  land  was  visited  by  an  intense  told, 
and  the  hostile  armies  were  frozen  in  the  forest.  On  the  apjiroach  of  the  English  he 
turned  his  huge  hunting-dogs  into  stone  and  then  passed  away  ;  but  will  return 
again,  right  Spencer's  Island,  call  the  dogs  to  life,  and  once  more  dispense  his  ro^al 
hospitality  on  the  ]Minas  shores. 

"  Now  the  ways  of  beasts  and  men  waxed  evil,  and  they  greatly  vexed  Glooscap, 
and  at  lengrh  he  could  no  longer  endure  then>  ;  and  he  made  a  rich  feast  by  the 
shore  of  the  great  lake  (Minas;.  All  the  beasts  came  to  it :  and  when  the  feast  was 
over,  he  got  into  a  big  canoe,  he  and  his  uncle,  the  (Jreat  Turtle,  and  the>  went 
away  over  the  big  lake,  and  the  l)easts  looked  after  them  till  they  saw  them  no 
more.  And  after  they  ceased  to  see  them,  they  still  heard  their  voices  as  they  sang, 
but  the  sounds  grew  fainter  ~.nd  fainter  in  the  distance,  and  at  last  they  wholly  died 
away ;  and  then  deep  silence  fell  on  them  all,  and  a  great  marvel  came  to  pass, 
and  the  beasts  who  had  till  now  spoken  but  one  language  no  longer  were  able  to 
understand  each  other,  and  they  all  tied  away,  each  his  own  way,  and  never  again 
have  they  met  together  in  council.  Until  the  day  when  Glooscap  shall  return  to 
restore  the  Golden  Age,  and  make  men  and  animals  dwell  once  more  together  in 
amity  and  peace,  all  Nature  mourns.  The  tradition  states  that  on  his  departure 
from  Acadia  the  great  snowy  owl  retired  to  the  deep  forests  t6  return  no  more  until 
he  could  come  to  welcome  Glooscap;  and  in  those  sylvan  depths  the  owls,  even  yet, 
repeat  to  the  night,  '  Koo  koo  skoos  I  Koo  koo  skoos  I '  which  is  to  say,  in  the  In- 
dian tongue,  '  0,  I  am  sorry  !  O,  I  am  sorry  I  '  And  the  loons,  who  had  been  the 
huntsmen  of  Glooscap,  go  restlessly  up  and  down  through  the  world,  seeking  vainly 
for  theirniaster,whom  they  cannot  find,  and  wailing  sadly  because  they  find  him 
not " 


'i4-^ 


out  20  M.  to 
I  Tete  River, 
jrypsuin )  are 
iseqiiiuitities 
from  Walton 
ntrv  is  cnni- 
ift  shipment 
irie  coast  the 


la  of  the  Mic- 
,  who  liad  the 
•ss  and  death, 
nil  old  woman 
10111,"  who  re- 
J  was  wielded 
t  the  Indians 
oauws.     lie 
n  the  Acadian 
(•  biilwarl<  of 
illed  the  ele- 
throne.     The 
:;reat  N\igwam 
id  suniuioiied 
intense  cold, 
10  Engli.«li  he 
t  will  return 
nse  his  ro^al 

:pd  Glooscap, 
feast  by  the 
tlie  feast  was 
d  thev  went 
aw  thcni  no 
IS  they  sang, 
■  wholly  died 
inie  to  pass, 
kvere  able  to 
never  again 
ill  return  to 
together  in 
is  departure 
>  more  until 
Is,  even  yet, 
,  in  the  In- 
id  been  the 
'king  vainly 
ey  find  huu 


I!    < 

4 

r 


II    I", 

11        « 


u . 


THE  LAND  OF  EVANGELINE.    ItoiUe  22.     107 


22.   The  Land  of  Evangeline. 

This  beautiful  and  docply  interesting,'  distriet  is  visited  with  the  greatest 
ease  from  the  aeadeniie  town  of  Wolfville  (Central  Ihme  :  Ac(uli'(  ;  Aiiuri- 
can),  whieh  is  127  M.  from  St.  .Joiui  and  (>;{  M,  Irom  Halifax  (by  Houte  18), 
on  an  arm  of  the  Basin  of  Minas,  and  engaged  ia  shipbuilding  and  fann- 
ing. It  has  1500  inhabitants,  5  churches,  Acadia  Seminary  (7  teachers  iiud 
70  pupils),  and  the  Ilorton  Academy  (4  teachers,  (iO  students).  Acadia 

College  is  a  Baptist  institution,  with  6  professors,  00  students,  and  .100 
alnnmi.  The  college  buildings  occupy  a  tine  situation  on  a  hill 

whieh  overlooks  "  those  meadows  on  the  Basin  of  Minas  which  Mr.  Long- 
fellow has  made  more  sadly  i)oetical  than  any  other  spot  on  the  Western 
Continent."  The  *  view  from  the  belfry  of  the  college  is  the  most  beau- 
tiful  in  this  vicinity,  or  even,  perhaps,  in  the  Maritime  Provinces.  Far 
across  the  Cornwallis  Valley  to  the  N.  is  the  North  Ml.,  which  terminates, 
15  M.  away  (21  M.  by  ro'ul),  in  the  majestic  bluff  of  (?ape  Blomidon, 
dropping  into  the  Basin  of  Minas.  To  the  N.  E.  is  the  "great  meadow" 
which  gave  name  and  site  to  the  village  of  Grand  Prd.  Steamboats  run 
on  the  Basin  ot  !Minas  in  summer,  connecting  Wolfville  with  the  other 
ports,  and  giving  a  very  delightful  journey  (see  page  101). 

A  }^ood  road  leads  E.  (in  3  M.)  from  Wolfville  to  Lower  Ilorton,  a  scat- 
tered hamlet  among  the  hills.  By  passing  down  irom  this  j)oint  to  tho 
meadows  just  beyond  the  railway-station  of  Grand  Pre,  tho  traveller 
reaches  the  site  of  the  ancient  village.  Standing  on  the  platlbrni  of  tli% 
station,  he  sees  a  large  tree  at  the  corner  of  the  field  on  the  left  front. 
Near  that  point  are  the  faint  remains  of  the  foundations  of  the  Acadian 
church.  The  tradition  of  the  country-side  claims  that  the  aged  willow- 
tree  near  by  grows  on  the  site  of  the  shoy  of  Basil  the  Blacksmith,  and 
that  cinders  have  been  dug  up  at  its  foct.  The  destruction  eflected  by 
the  British  troops  was  complete,  and  there  are  now  no  relics  of  the  an- 
cient settlement,  except  the  gnarled  and  knotty  trees  of  the  orchards,  the 
lines  of  willows  along  the  old  I'oads,  and  the  sunken  hollows  which  indi- 
cate the  sites  of  former  cellars.  Near  the  shore  is  shown  the  place  where 
ttie  exiles  were  put  on  shipboard.  A  road  leads  across  the  rich  diked 
marsh  in  2-3  M.  to  Long  Island,  a  sliglit  elevation  fronting  on  the  Basin 
of  Minus,  and  on  which  dwells  a  farming  population  of  about  120  persons. 
To  the  N.  E.  is  the  mouth  of  the  Gaspereaux  Biver,  and  on  the  W.  the 
Cornwallis  River  is  discharged.  The  early  Acadians  reclaimed  these  rich 
meadow's  from  the  sweep  of  the  tides  by  building  light  dikes  to  turn  the 
water.  There  were  2,100  acres  of  this  gained  land  in  their  Grand  Prd, 
but  the  successive  advancing  of  other  lines  of  aggression  iias  driven  back 
the  sea  from  a  much  larger  area,  all  of  which  is  very  productive  and  val- 
uable. In  1810  the  broad  meadow  between  Grand  Prd  and  Wolfville  was 
enclosed  by  new  dikes  and  added  to  the  reclaimed  domain. 


M 


1»« 


Ml  i' 


k<   i 


iJ    tUBr*        I' 


i 


108       Rout,;  22. 


GRAND    PR6. 


Nnhle'H  MiiMMiu'liusj'ttH  roK'""'"''  ^a*  cantoin'tl  at  rJrand  Pr6  In  tho  winter  of 
171t)  7.  DmiiiK  'I  lit'iivy  NUow-Htorni,  iM-lore  dawn  on  Kfb.  11,  tlin  town  wii.i  ut- 
ttu>k«>(l  l>y  ;{4*)  hn-iicli  troDp.x,  arraiii^cd  in  Id  ilivi>i(>iiH,  ami  coiniiiaiKlcil  by  (Dulon 
do  N  illiiTK.  'I'lii' >*'iitiiiflH  wnc  vigilant, and  K'^v**  tiiu  alarm  iir«  ^< inn  us  tlic  h(l^lllo 
coliunns  wt-n-  n'ou  ovtr  tlu'  lolty  onuw-dritts  ;  liut  tint  aMf-ailaiits  da>lit  d  in  I'l  iirlr.s.>^ly 
and  Hoon  canicd  tlic  htmnncst  of  tlic  Imrraiks.  Col.  Noldc  wan  slain  while  llnlitinK 
in  liJH  Hliirt.  1;U  Americans  were  killiil  and  wounded  und  tii)  W(  re  n:iide  ijri.Mi.erri; 
21  of  the  attacking  iiarly  Nvere  kiileil  and  woundeil.  In  the  nioridn^  8<^(l  of  thu 
Massa<dins»tts  men  wert'  enneentrated  in  a  Htone  lpnii(Un^',  and  lon^ht  witl\  nintdi 
brav«!ry,  tliu  eond)at  hein^  wa;;ed  from  hounu  to  hon.-«'  through  the  stnt  ts.  Hy 
noon  tiu'ir  annnunition  was  exiMiidi'd,  and  they  Hnrrench-red  to  the  French,  being 
paroled  and  allowed  to  niar<di  out  with  the  honors  of  wiir.  A  cnnviviMl  dinner  wiw 
then  enjo\ed  by  the  officers  of  the  whilom  hostile  forces,  and  the  AniericniiM  were 
HtMit  to  Anna|iolis  under  an  AcaiUan  (^nard,  whilo  the  French  H)on  afterward  letirt'd 
to  Iieaubiu<>in,  bearini^  tluir  cajttured  artillery  uud  four  stiinUs  of  colorH  whidi  had 
bven  tukuu  i  i  thu  battlu. 

Tho  shores  of  the  Knsin  of  Minas  wore  settled  in  tho  early  part  of  tlie  17th  century 
by  innnij,'rants  from  Iji  llochclle,  Siiintonji*,  and  I'oiton.  They  soon  euctul  dikes 
by  wliich  the  tide  was  kept  oil  from  the  n.cadows,  and  from  'tht'^e  rh  h  reclfdn  cd 
lands  they  gatheriMl  jjreat  t'rops.  i^everal  ciirj.':c.es  of  jrn.in  were  exported  to  llo.'ton 
every  >oar,  and  the  .M'ttlcment  f^oon  liccunie  hnye  and  llro^per(lns.  The  hulians 
rofiarded  these  new  iieif^hhors  with  ntrectinn,  and  lived  on  terms  of  perfect  pca«e 
■with  them.  Durinj^  the  wars  lietwfen  France  and  Crcat  llritain,  the  Acadiaiis  were 
jitron^ly  l)atriotic,  and  took  np  arn.s  in  the  ciuue  of  their  native  land.  Intcns-ely 
dovotetl  to  the  lloman  Catholic  Church,  and  considerini?  tliet<e  wars  as  in  tlio  nature 
of  crusades,  tlu-y  fout;ht  valiantly  and  well. 

Hut  when  Nova  Scotia  was  tniiiUy  ( edcd  to  Croat  llritain  (in  1713),  their  po>ifion 
bocanu'  very  awkward  and  iiaiuful.  Many  of  them  refu.-cd  to  ti.ke  the  oath  of  alle- 
giance, and  for  others  a  niodilied  fonnula  wna  fran.ed.  The  en.i:.-aries  of  the  Frencli 
power  at  Louishourg  and  Qui  bee  ( Irculatcd  unions?  them  and  maintained  their  loy- 
alty to  Franco  at  a  fever  licat,  while  tluir  priests  acted  (ontiniially  on  tlio  san.u 
policy,  and  kept  np  the  liostility  to  the  coi.rn.erors.  The  Ihitish  I'rovincial  govern- 
ment was  lo(  ated  at  Annapolis,  and  tliough  its  laws  were  niiid  and  clen  ent,  it  could 
not  (ommand  re.-pect  on  aceouut  of  its  physical  weakness.  Under  tliese  circuin- 
Btancos,  hundreds  of  tho  Acadians  joined  the  French  armies  during  every  war  be- 
tween tho  two  powers,  and  proved  dangerous  foenien,  on  account  of  their  knowledge 
of  tho  laud.  Ihitish  settlors  were  unwilling  to  locate  among  theto  pc  ople  on  account 
of  their  ho.'tility,  and  the  fairest  lands  of  the  i'rovince  wcio  tin  s  held  hy  an  alien 
and  hostile  populiition.  Tho  great  contlict  betwten  England  and  France  in  tho  Now 
■\\'orld  was  still  in  full  course,  and  tho  latter  power  was  in  posusfion  of  tlio  CanaduS. 
Tho  majority  of  tlio  Acailians  wore  doubtless  jwaceful  and  honest,  occupied  only 
with  tluir  local  afl'airs;  but  some  of  them  were  hostile  arl  troublesome,  and  the 
anonialou.s  position  of  tliese  alien  nhjcftswas  a  source  of  incessant  danger  to  the 
English  i)owcr.  It  was  therefore  det«  in  :ned  in  tlie  councii  at  Halifax,  in  1755,  that 
they  must  either  take  an  unconditior  al  oath  of  allegiauee  to  Glreat  15iitiiin  or  leavfl 
the  country.  Deputations  wore  calhd  in  from  all  tho  French  settlements,  and  the 
alternatives  weie  clearly  set  forth  heft n  them.  Almost  unanimously  thev  relu.'od 
to  take  the  oath,  j)referrii!g  (they  wiidjixilo  and  confiscation  to  such  an  act,  and 
geoming  to  ngard  their  neutralitj-  of  the  past  4.'>  years  as  having  become  a  vested 
right.  It  seems  as  if  diplomacy  and  arguuic  nt  were  tned  to  their  utmost  limit  upon 
these  unyielding  recusants,  and  it  then  became  necessary  for  tho  honor  and  safety 
of  the  Province,  to  resort  to  sterner  n  easuroR.  It  was  resolved  that  the  whole  Aca- 
diau  people  sliouUl  1  e  banislu  il  to  tin;  southern  American  colonies,  and  that  their 
estates  and  buildings,  cattle  and  vessels,  should  bo  declared  forfeited  to  the  Crown. 

Tho  Acadians  were  taken  by  su'-jjriso.  A  British  detachment  and  fleet  destroyed 
all  tho  villages,  farms,  and  (  hunhes,  on  the  Chignetto  Basin  and  tlio  Petitco''.iac 
River,  sweeping  uj)  many  jirL-oners  ami  mooting  with  some  sharp  fighting.  J>lonc- 
ton  destroyed  Slu  diac,  Kemslug,  and  other  towns  on  tho  Gulf  coast ;  Murray  gath- 
ered np  tiic  people  about  Windsor  and  to  the  E. ;  and  Ilandfield  put  the  Fn  nch 
Annapuiitaus  tin  shijiboard,  excejit  a  few  wiio  escaped  into  tlie  woods.  Winslow 
collected  1,U23  persons  at  Grand  Pr6  and  embarked  th»'m,and  burned  255  houses, 
276  barns,  and  11  miL>.  (Winslow  was  a  IMassachusetts  officer,  and  20  years  later 
his  own  fan.ily  was  driven  into  exile  for  host  ility  to  America.)  The  people  of  Grand 
Pr(3  were  sent  to  North  Carolina,  Vi."ginia,  and  Maryland. 


GRAND  TR^. 


Route  Si.       103 


li(>  winter  of 
town    Wll;i  ut- 
I'd  by  Coulon 
IS  tli«'  hohlilo 
I  in  t'liirlcs^ly 
while  tit;>itinK 
nil'  1)1  i.M  I. »■!•(* ; 
liip;  3.',ti  (if  tlm 
lit  witli  ninch 
(  htiTtts.     Hy 
Kn'iicli,  bring 
l.il  tllniuT  wiw 
nu'iicnnM  were 
iTwaril  loliifd 
orH  whicli  lind 


e 17th  century 

en  etc  d  ilikt'« 

rU  b  ricliiin  *'d 

rtiil  to  15(jf  ton 

The  IndiiinB 

t  pcrlcct  peine 

Acinliiiiis  were 

nd.     Intensely 

8  in  the  nature 

,  tbeir  pcfltion 
le  oatli  of  allc- 
s  of  the  French 
iiined  their  loy- 
y   on  tlic  san.o 
ivincinl  frovern- 
en  ent,  it  could 
tlie>>e  cireuni- 
every  war  be- 
'luir  knowledge 
pie  on  account 
Id  t>y  an  alien 
In  re  in  the  Kew 
it  tlic  CanadaS. 
occupied  only 
some,  and  the 
It  (lanper  tt'  the 
tliat 
Uitain  or  leavfl 
iiientP,  and  the 
jly  tliej'  relumed 
:h  an 'act,  and 
fconie  a  vested 
ost  limit  upon 
mor  and  safety 
he  whole  Aca- 
aiid  that  their 
o  the  Crown. 
Jeet  de.' ti  0}  ed 
lie  Pctitco'i.iac 


|hting.  J»lonc- 
Murniy  gath- 

lut  the  Fn  nch 

ods.     Wiuslow 

fid  255  houses, 

20  years  later 

eople  of  Grand 


"  While  we  non  plnlnlv  thnt  Englnnd  could  n«»vpr  mnlly  control  this  Province 
while  they  rpniulneil  in  it,  all  our  feelings  of  huniunlty  are  aireeted  by  the  wuioval 

lt."<elf,  and  otlll  nion)  by  the  severity  of  tlie  itttendiint  circnni«tanees They  were 

the  vlctinin  of  great  error  on  their  own  l)art,  and  of  delusive  views  that  false  frieiulu 
had  inHtilled  into  their  inin<ls,  and  the  liiipnIseM  of  national  and>ition  and  je.i^usy 
preeipit'iti'd  their  fate,  It  is.  however,  sonm  consolation  to  know  that  very  many  of 
the  exiles  returne<l  within  a  few  years  to  their  native  lan<l,  and  though  not  restored 
to  their  native  firms,  they  be<'anie  an  Integral  and  res|M!cted  portion  of  our  popula- 
tion, displaying,  under  all  changes,  those  simple  virtues  that  they  had  inherited,— 
the  same  modest,  humble,  and  peaceable  disposition,  that  had  been  their  early  attri- 
butes."   (Murdoch.)    (SwmiIso  Cl.viik,  Chkzzctcook,  and  TftAfADiK. ) 

In  17*50  a  largo  colony  of  families  from  Connecticut,  in  a  licet  of  22  voswjM  con- 
voyed by  a  man-of-war,  arriveil  at  (Jraml  l'r«^  and  occupied  the  deserted  farms. 
"  Thi.'y  found  tiO  ox-carts  and  as  many  yokes,  which  the  unfortunaU*  French  had 
used  In  conveying  their  baggige  to  tlie  vi'ssel.s  that  carried  them  away  from  the 
country  ;  and  at  the  skirts  of  the  fon-^t  heaps  of  the  bones  of  sheep  and  horned  cat- 
tle, that,  deserted  by  their  owners,  had  iierisheil  in  winter  from  the  lack  of  food. 
They  also  met  with  a  few  straggling  families  of  Acadians  who  had  escaped  from  the 
8crutini/ing  search  of  the  soldiers  at  t'le  removal  of  their  countrymen,  and  who, 
afraid  of  sliarlng  the  same  fate,  had  not  ventured  to  till  the  land,  or  to  appear  in 
the  open  country.  They  had  eaten  no  breid  for  five  years,  an<l  had  subsisted  on 
vegetables,  fish,  and  the  more  hardy  ]>art  of  the  cattle  that  had  survived  the  sever- 
ity of  the  first  winter  of  their  abandonment."    (ILvLinunToN  ) 

"  This  is  the  forest  primeval.     The  murmuring  pines  and  the  hemlockfl, 
Hearded  with  moss,  and  in  garments  green,  indistinct  in  the  twilight, 
Stand  like  Druids  of  eld,  with  voices  sad  and  prophetic, 
Stand  like  harpers  hoar,  with  beards  that  rest  on  their  bosoms. 
Loud  from  its  rocky  caverns,  the  deep-voiced  neighboring  ocean 
Speak.s,  and  In  accents  disconsolat*  answers  the  wall  of  tlic  forest. 

*'  This  is  the  forest  primeval ;  but  whore  are  the  hearts  that  beneath  it 

Ixiaped  like  the  roe,  when  he  be;ir-  in  the  woodland  the  voice  of  the  huL.usmanT 
Where  is  the  tliaLch-roofed  ^''    age,    m'.  home  of  Aca  lian  firmers, — 
Men  wiiose  lives  gli  led  on     rxe  rivers  that  water  the  woodlands, 
Darkened  by  shadows  of  e.-irth,  but  reflecting  an  image  of  heaven  ? 
Waste  are  those  pleasant  farms,  and  the  farmers  forever  departed  ! 
Hcatteix'd  like  dust  atid  lei*fes,  when  the  mighty  blasts  of  Octotier 
Seize  them,  and  whi  !  them  alfift,  and  sjirinkle  them  far  o'er  the  ocean. 
Naught  but  traditi  .u  remains  of  the  beautiful  village  of  (Irand  Pr6. 

•'  In  the  Acadian  land,  on  the  .shores  of  the  Basin  of  Minas, 
Distant,  .siu-luded,  still,  the  little  village  of  Grand  Pn^ 
Lay  in  the  fruitful  valley.     Vast  meadows  stretched  to  the  eastward, 
Giving  the  village  Its  name,  and  pasture  to  flocks  without  number. 
Dikes,  that  the  hands  of  the  farmers  had  raised  with  labor  incessant, 
Shut  out  the  turbulent  tides;  but  at  certtnn  seasons  the  tlood-gates 
Opened,  and  welcomed  the  sea  to  wai:der  at  will  o'er  the  meadows. 
West  and  south  there  were  fields  of  flax,  and  orchards  anr  corn-fieldiS 
Spreading  afar  and  unfenced  o'er  the  plain ;  and  away  to  i  (le  northward 
Blomidon  rose,  and  the  forests  old,  and  aloft  on  the  mountains 
Sea-fogs  pitched  their  tents,  and  mists  from  the  mighty  Atlantic 
Looked  on  the  happy  Galley,  but  ne'er  from  their  station  descended. 
There,  in  the  midst  of  its  farms,  reposed  the  Acadian  village. 
Strongly  built  were  the  houses,  with  frames  of  oak  and  of  chestnut. 
Such  as  the  peasants  of  Normandy  built  in  the  reign  of  the  Henries. 
Thatched  were  the  roofs,  with  dormer-windows  ;  and  gables  projecting 
Over  the  basement  below  protected  and  shaded  the  doorway. 
There  in  the  tranquil  evenings  of  summer,  when  brightly  the  sunset 
Lighted  the  village  street,  and  gilded  the  vanes  on  the  chimneys, 
Matrons  and  maidens  sat  in  snow-white  caps  and  in  kirtles 
Scarlet  and  blue  and  green,  with  distjilTs  spinning  the  golden 
Flax  for  the  gossiping  looms,  whose  noisy  shuttles  within  doors 
,  Mingled  their  sound  with  the  whir  of  the  wheels  and  the  soogs  of  the  maideni 


m 


■  ,  "In* 


110       Rmiten. 


GRAND  PRE. 


;  t 


Solemnly  down  tho  street  came  the  parish  priest,  and  the  children 
Paused  in  tht  ir  ])hiy  to  kiss  the  hand  ho  extended  to  blei-s  tlani. 
Reverend  walkid  he  an.ong  them  ;  ni.d  up  ro^v  matrons  and  Hiuidens, 
Huiiiug  h  H  Flow  approacli  with  words  of  afTectionate  welcome. 
Tiien  came  the  laborers  home  from  the  field,  and  serenely  the  Bun  sank 
'  Down  to  his  rest,  and  twilif^^ht  ))revailed.     Anon  from  the  Vielfry 
Softly  tho  Aiigelus  ,'ounded,  and  over  the  roofs  of  tlvc  village 
Columns  of  jale  bUio  smoke,  like  clouds  of  inceuFe  ascending, 
Rose  from  a  hundred  hearths,  the  homes  of  peace  and  contentmfnt. 
Thus  dwelt  together  in  love  these  simple  Acadian  farmers,  — 
Dwelt  in  tlie  love  of  God  and  of  man.     Alike  were  they  free  from 
Fear,  that  reigns  with  the  tyrant,  and  envy,  the  vice  of  repuhlics. 
Neither  locks  had  they  to  their  door.«,  nor  bars  to  their  windows  ; 
But  their  dwellings  were  open  as  day  and  the  hearts  of  the  owners  ; 
There  the  richest  was  poor,  and  the  poorest  lived  in  abundance." 

The  poet  then  describes  "  the  gentle  Evangeline,  the  pride  of  the  vil- 
lage." 

"  Fair  was  she  to  behold,  that  maiden  of  seventeen  summers, 
Bl.aek  were  her  ejes  as  the  berry  that  grows  on  the  thorn  by  the  wayside, 
Black,  yet  how  softly  they  gleamed  beneath  the  brown  shade  of  her  tresses! 
Sweet  was  her  breatii  as  the  breath  of  kine  that  feed  in  the  meadows. 
When  in  the  harvest  heat  she  bore  to  the  reapers  at  noontide 
Flagons  of  home-brewed  ale,  ah  !  fair  in  sooth  was  the  maiden. 
Fairer  was  she  when,  on  Sunday  morn,  whiic  the  bell  from  its  turret 
Sprinkled  with  holy  sounds  the  air,  as  the  prie.'-t  with  his  hyssop 
Sprinkles  tlie  congregation,  ami  scatters  bles.-ings  upon  them. 
Down  the  long  street  she  passed,  with  her  chajjlct  of  beads  and  her  missal, 
Wearing  her  Norman  cap,  and  her  kirtic  of  blue,  and  the  ear-rings,  — 
Brought  in  the  olden  time  from  France,  and  .'■ince,  as  an  heirloom, 
Handed  down  from  mother  to  child,  through  long  generations. 
But  a  celestial  brightness  —  a  more  ethereal  beauty  — 
Shone  on  her  face  and  encircled  her  form,  when,  after  confession. 
Homeward  serenely  she  walked,  with  God's  benediction  upon  her. 
When  she  had  passed,  it  seemed  like  tiie  ceasing  of  exquisite  music." 

After  a  beautiful  description  of  the  peaceful  social  life  of  the  Acadians, 
nnd  the  betrothal  of  Evangeline,  the  poet  tells  of  the  arrival  of  the  English 
fleet,  the  convocation  of  the  people,  the  royal  mandate,  the  destruction  of 
Grand  Pr^,  and  the  weary  exile  of  the  vMlagers. 

*'  So  passed  the  morning  away.     And  lo  !  with  a  summons  sonorous 
Sounded  tlie  bell  from  its  tower,  and  over  the  meadow  a  drum  beat. 
Thronged  erelong  was  the  church  witii  men.     Without,  in  the  churchyard. 
Waited  the  women.     They  stood  by  the  graves,  and  hung  on  the  headstones 
Garlands  of  autumn-leaves  and  evergreens  fresh  from  tiie  forest. 
T-  en  came  the  guard  from  the  ships,  and  marching  proudly  among  them 
Entered  the  sacred  portal.     \Vith  loud  and  dissonant  clangor 
Echoed  the  sound  of  their  brazen  drums  from  ceiling  and  casement, — 
Echoed  a  moment  only,  and  slowly  the  ponderous  portal 
Closed,  and  in  silence  the  crowd  awaited  the  will  of  the  soldiers 
Then  upro     their  commander,  and  spake  from  the  st?ps  of  the  altar, 
Holding  all  It  in  his  liands,  with  its  seals,  the  royal  commission. 
'  Ye  are  convened  this  day,'  hfe  .said, '  by  his  Majesty's  orders. 
Clement  and  kind  has  he  been  ;  but  how  have  you  answered  his  kindnesB^ 
Let  your  own  hearts  reply  !     To  my  natural  make  and  my  temper 
Painful  the  task  is  I  do,  which  to  you  I  know  must  be  grievous. 
Yet  must  T  bow  and  oiiey,  and  deliver  the  will  of  our  monarch  ; 
Namely,  that  all  your  lands,  and  dwellings,  and  cattl"  of  all  kinds 
Forfeited  be  to  the  crown  ;  and  that  you  yourselves  ft-oni  this  proviuce 
Be  transported  to  other  lands.     God  grant  you  may  dwell  there 
Ever  as  faithful  subject.s,  a  happy  and  peaceable  people  I 
Prisoners  now  I  declare  you  ;  for  such  is  his  Majesty's  pleasure.'  • 


GRAND  PRE. 


Ronte  22,       111 


ak 


3f  the  vil- 
rside, 


tresses : 


missal, 


Acadian?, 

|he  English 

ruction  of 


[chyard, 
ludstones 


I  them 


IdnesB) 


There  disorder  prevailed,  and  the  tumult  and  ntir  of  embarking. 

IJusily  plied  the  freigliteJ  boats  ;  and  iu  the  confusion 

Wives  were  torn  from  their  husbands,  and  niotiiers,  too  late,  saw  their  children 

Left  on  the  laud,  extending  their  arnis,  with  wildest  entreaties. 

Suddenly  rose  from  the  south  a  light,  as  in  autumn  the  blood-red 

Moon  climbs  the  crystal  walls  of  heaven,  and  o"er  the  horizon 

Titan-like  stretches  its  hundred  hands  upon  mountain  and  meadow, 

Seizing  the  rocks  and  the  rivers,  and  piling  huge  shadows  together. 

Broader  and  ever  broader  it  gleamed  on  the  roofs  of  the  village, 

Gleamed  on  the  sky  and  the  sea,  and  the  ships  that  lay  in  the  roadstead. 

Columns  of  shining  smoke  uprose,  and  flashes  of  flame  were 

Thrust  through  their  foldsand  withdrawn,  like  the  quivering  hands  of  a  martyr. 

Tlien  as  the  wind  seized  the  gleeds  and  the  burning  thatch,  and  uplifting, 

Whirled  them  aloft  through  the  air,  at  once  from  a  hundred  house-topa 

Started  the  sheeted  smoke,  with  flashes  of  flame  intermingled. 

Many  a  weary  year  had  passed  since  the  burning  of  Grand  Pr<5, 

When  on  the  filling  tide  the  freighted  vessels  departed. 

Bearing  a  nation,  with  all  its  household  gods,  into  exile, 

Exile  without  an  end,  and  without  an  example  in  story. 

Far  asunder,  on  separate  coasts,  the  Acadians  landed  ; 

Scattered  were  they,  like  flakes  of  snow,  when  the  wind  from  the  northeast 

Strikes  aslant  through  the  fogs  that  darken  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland. 

Friendless,  homeless,  hopeless,  they  wandered  from  city  to  city, 

From  the  cold  lakes  of  the  North  to  sultry  Southern  savanpus, — 

From  tlie  bleak  shores  of  the  sea  to  the  lands  where  the  Father  of  Waters 

Seizes  the  hills  in  his  htmds,  and  drags  them  down  to  the  ocean, 

Deep  in  their  sands  to  bury  the  scattered  bones  of  the  mammoth. 

Friends  they  sought  and  homes  ;  and  many,  despairing,  heart-broken, 

Asked  of  the  earth  but  a  grave,  and  no  longer  a  friend  or  a  fireside. 

Written  their  history  stands  on  tablets  of  stone  in  tlie  churchyards  " 

Longfellow's  Evangeline, 

•'  Much  as  we  may  admire  the  various  hays  and  lakes,  the  inlets,  promontories, 
and  straits,  the  mount  lins  and  woodlands  of  this  rarely  visited  corner  of  creation, — 
and,  compared  with  it,  we  can  boast  of  no  coast  sceuery  .so  beautiful,  —  the  valley  of 
Grand  Pre  transcends  all  tiie  rest  in  the  Province.  Only  our  valley  of  Wyoming, 
as  an  inland  picture,  m;"  match  it,  both  iu  beauty  and  tradition.  One  had  its  Ger- 
trude, the  other  its  Evangeline  "    (Cozzf.ns  ) 

"  Beyond  is  a  lofty  and  extended  chain  of  hills,  presenting  a  vast  chasm,  appar- 
ently burst  out  by  the  waters  of  19  rivers  that  empty  into  the  Basin  of  Minas,  and  here 
escape  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  variety  an  '  extent  of  this  prcspect,  the  beauti- 
ful verdant  vale  of  the  Gaspereaux  ;  the  extended  township  of  Ilorton  interspersed 
with  groves  of  wood  and  cultured  fields,  and  the  cloud-capped  summit  of  the  lofty 
cape  that  terminates  the  chain  of  the  North  Mt.,form  an  assemblage  of  objects 
rarely  united  with  so  striking  an  effect." 

"  It  would  be  difficult  to  point  out  another  landscape  at  all  equal  to  that  which  is 
beheld  from  the  hill  that  overlooks  the  site  of  the  ancient  village  of  Minas.  On 
either  hand  extend  undulating  hills  richly  cultivated,  and  intermingled  with  farm- 
houses and  orchards.  From  the  base  of  these  highlands  extend  the  alluvial  mead- 
ows which  add  so  nnich  to  the  appearance  and  wealth  of  Horton.  The  Grand 
Prairie  is  skn-ted  by  Boot  and  Long  Islands,  whose  fertile  and  well-tilled  fields  are 
sheltered  from  the  north  liy  evergreen  forests  of  dark  foliage.  Beyond  are  the  wide 
expanse  of  waters  of  the  Basin  of  Minas,  the  lower  part  of  Cornwallis,  and  the  isles 
and  blue  highlands  of  the  opposite  shores.  The  charm  of  this  prospect  consists  in 
tile  unusual  combination  of  hill,  dale,  woods,  and  cultivated  fields;  in  the  calm 
beauty  of  agricultural  scenery  ;  and  in  the  romantic  wildness  of  t.ie  distant  forests. 
During  the  sunmier  and  autumnal  months  immense  herds  of  cattle  are  seen  quietly 
cropping  the  herbage  of  the  Grand  Prairie ;  whil«  numerous  vessels  plying  on  the 
Baiiii  convey  a  pleasing  evidence  of  the  prosperity  and  resources  of  this  fertile  dis- 
trict."    (U.VLIBURTON.J 


•,':M 


iVij 


m 


I.1.V  . 


1 1 2      Route  23. 


ST.  MARY'S  BAY. 


\l' 


23.    Annapolis  Royal  to  Clare  and  Yarmouth. 

The  railwjiy  from  Annapolis  to  Bear  River  and  Di^by  was  opencfi  in  1891,  contin- 
uing the  ohler  n.iiw  .y  route  from  I)i:b.\  to  Yarnioutli.    The  runuiug  of  local  steam- 
•j    i  i  boats  ou  Annapolis  Basin  is  thus  reudcred  uncertain. 

%\  FroQi  St.  Joun  or  Halifax  to  Annapolis  lloyal,  see  Route  18. 

I  Tlie  stage-routes  from  Digby  to  Clare  and  to  West  Port  give  charming  views  of  the 

I    jl  marine  scenery  of  St.  Mary '•><  Bay.     The  \Vesteru-Couuiit;s  Kaitway  lies  about  3  M. 

1i  from  the  higliway,  with  mail-service  from  its  stations  to  the  villages  along  the  coast. 

'M  Stations.- Digby   to  Jordantown,  4  M.  ;    Bloomfiold,  9;    North   Range,   11; 

.    M  Plyuipton,  14  ;  Port  Gilbert,  1(5  :  Weynioutii,  *22  ;  Iklliveau.  26 ;  <^hnrcli  Point,  .30  ; 

[;  Little  Brook,  32  ;  Saulnierville,  34  :  Motcglian,  .'37;  Ilcctanooga,  4(5 ;  Norwood,  49; 

Brazil,  04 ;  Green  Cove,  57  ;  Ohio,  GO  ;  Hebron,  02  ;  Yarmouth,  67. 
We  add  alFo  the  dislances  on  the  old  highway. 

Itinerary. —  Annapolis  Roval;  (Monientsport.  8.\  M.  ;  Victoria  Bridge,  13. V ; 
Smith's  Covo,  16;  Digby,  20.\  ;  St.  Mary's  Bav,  27;^  ; 'Wcvmonth  Road,  32;  Wey- 
iiiouHi  Bridge,  3S  ;  Bclliveau  Cove,  43  ;  Cliiro,  50  ;  Metcghau  Cove,  69;  Cheticamp, 
63  ;  Bear  River,  74  ;  Yarmouth  Lakes,  81  ;  Yarmouth,  !)0. 

The  railway  lies  farther  inland  than  the  hi^-Invav,  traversing  a  com- 
paratively new  country,  where  heautiful  lakes  and  ponds  ahound  on  every 
side.  Tbp  fare  from  Yarmouth  to  Weymouth  is  .^^l.Go;  to  Diiihy,  .1$2.45; 
to  Annapolis,  ,93;  to  St.  .T-)hn,  ,<?:!.50;  to  Halifax,  .1?fi.50;  to  Boston  (lim- 
ited), $7.     Annapolis  Royal  to  Digby,  !^ec  pages  84,  85  (reversed). 

On  leaving  Digby  the  line  runs  S.  W.,  traversing  the  farming  set- 
tlement of  MarshaUlown,  and  crosses  the  isthmus  between  the  An- 
napolis Basin  and  St.  Mary's  Bay,  a  distance  of  about  7  M.  Thence- 
forward, for  over  30  M.,  the  highway  lies  near  the  beautiful  *  St.  Mary's 
Bay,  which  is  about  35  M.  long,  with  a  width  of  from  3  to  10  M.  On  the 
opjiositc  shore  arc  the  higidands  of  Digby  Neck  (see  Route  9A),  a  continu- 
ation of  the  North  Mt.  range.  On  this  shore  a  wide  belt  wf  level  land  has 
been  left  between  the  receding  range  of  the  South  Mt.  (or  Blue  Mts.)  and 
the  bay,  and  the  water-front  is  occu])icd  by  numerous  farms. 

In  St.  IMary's  Bay  tlie  fleet  of  the  Sieur  de  Monts  lay  for  two  weeks,  in  1604,  while 
the  shores  were  being  explored  by  l)oafs  <'reNvs.  The  mariners  were  greatl}  rejoiced 
in  finding  what  they  supposed  to  be  valuable  deposits  of  iron  and  silver.  The 
Parisian  priest  Aubry  was  lost  on  one  of  the^o  excursions,  and  roamed  through  the 
•woods  for  16  days,  eating  nothing  but  berries,  until  another  vesfcel  took  him  off. 
The  name  Bale  de  Ste.  Marie  was  given  by  Champlain. 

Brifjhton  is  at  the  head  of  the  bay.  and  is  a  pleasant  agricultural  village 
with  a  small  inn.  The  hamlets  of  BarUm  (or  Specht's  Cove)  and  GilberVs 
Cove  are  soon  passed,  and  the  stage  enters  the  pretty  village  of  Weymouth 
(two  inns),  a  seaport  which  builds  some  handsome  vessels,  and  has  a  snug 
little  trade  with  the  United  States  and  the  West  Indies.  It  is  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Sissiboo  Kiver,  on  whose  ojiposite  shore  is  the  Acadian  hamlet  of 
yeiv  Edinburgh.  Acrcss  St.  Mary's  Bay  is  the  maritime  villiige  of  Saiuly 
Cove. 

T!io  line  now  ascends  the  r.  bank  of  the  Sissiboo  River  to  Weymoiith 
Bndge  (Jones's  Hotel),  a  maritime  village  of  about  the  same  size  as  Wej'- 
moutli.  It  is  4  ^I.  from  the  mouth  of  the  river;  and  2-3  M.  to  the  E. 
are  the  Sissiboo  Falls.  The  shore  of  St.  Mary's  Bay  is  regained  at  Bdll- 
vtau  Cove  (small  inn),  an  Acadian  hamlet  chiefly  devoted  to  agriculture 


CLARE. 


Eoitte  23.      113 


and  shipbuildinff.  From  tlils  point  down  to  Beaver  River,  and  beyond 
throu<^ii  the  Tusket  and  Piil-niro regions,  the  shore  is  occupied  by  a  nitige 
of  luimlets  which  »ire  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of  tlio  old  Acadian- 
French. 

The  Clare  Settlements  woro  founded  about  1763  by  the  descendants  of  the 
Acivlians  wlio  h;id  lici-n  t-xile  I  to  New  Enfilund.  After  the  conqucsf  otCiinjidn  the.-o 
unfortuniite  waiiiioror.s  were  sulTcrel  to  return  to  Nova  Scotia,  but  they  found  their 
former  domains  about  tlie  l!;isin  of  Minns  already  oceupied  by  the  Ncw-Knj;l'inders. 
So  they  removed  to  tlie  le^^s  fcrrile  l(Ut  still  i)leisant  shores  of  Clare,  and  founded  new 
homes,  alternatiu^j  their  farm  labors  with  fishiiij^-voyagcs  on  St.  .Mary's  Hay  or  the 
outer  sea.  This  little  eomnionwealtli  of  4  -  o,(lO()  people  was  for  many  years  piverned 
and  directed  by  "  the  amiable  and  venerated  Abhe  Segoij;ue,"'a  patrician  priest  who 
had  fled  from  France  during  the  Ilevolutiou  of  1793.  [lis  power  and  inliuence  were 
unlimited,  and  were  exerted  only  for  the  peace  and  well-beini:;  of  liis  people.  Under 
this  benign  guidance  the  colony  flourished  amain  ;  new  hamlets  arose  along  the 
shores  of  tlie  beautiful  bay  ;  and  an  Acadian  village  was  founded  iu  the  oak-grove.s 
of  Tusket.  M.  Segoigne  also  conciliated  the  Micmaes,  learned  their  language,  and 
was  highly  venerated  by  all  their  tribe. 

"  When  the  traveller  enters  (Mare,  the  houses,  the  household  utensils,  the  foreign 
language,  and  the  uniform  costume  of  the  inhabitants  excite  his  surprise  ;  because 
no  parish  of  Nova  Scotia  has  such  a  distinctive  character.  The  Acailians  are  far 
behind  their  neighbors  in  niodL-s  of  agriiulture  :  they  show  a  great  reluctance  to 
enter  th'-  r>'''^^f  and  in  place  of  advancing  upon  the  highlands,  they  subdivide  their 
lands  ail..  ■  shore  and  keep  their  cliildren  about  them.     They  preserve  their 

language  ;.  .itoms  with  a  singular  tenacity,  and  though  connnercc  phues  th(.'ui 
in  constai.-  ^.^lumnnication  with  the  Kiiglisii,  they  never  contract  marriage  with 
th.^m,  nor  adopt  their  manners,  nor  dwell  in  their  villages.  This  conduct  is  not  due 
to  dislike  of  the  Knglidi  government ;  it  must  be  attril)uted  rather  to  ancient  usage, 
to  the  national  character,  and  to  their  systems  of  education.  But  if  they  are  infe- 
rior to  the  English  colonists  in  the  arts  which  strengthen  and  extend  the  influence 
of  society,  they  can  proudly  challenge  comparison  in  their  social  and  domestic  vir- 
tues. W'ithout  ambition,  living  with  frug.ility,  they  regulate  their  life  according  to 
their  means ;  devoted  to  their  ancient  worship,  they  are  not  divided  by  religious 
discord;  in  fine,  contented  with  their  lot  and  moral  iu  their  habits  of  lite,  tiiey  en- 
joy periiaps  as  much  of  happiness  aud  goodness  as  is  possible  in  the  fraiity  of  human 
nature."    (U.vlibukto.n.) 

"  Still  stands  the  forest  primeval ;  but  under  the  shade  of  its  branches 
D.vells  another  race,  with  other  customs  and  language. 
Only  along  the  shore  of  the  mournfid  and  misty  Atlantic 
Linger  a  few  Acailian  peasants,  whose  fathers  from  exile 
Wandered  back  to  their  native  laud  to  die  in  its  bo.'om. 
In  the  fisherman's  cot  the  wheel  and  the  loom  are  still  busy  ; 
Maidens  still  wear  their  Norman  ca])s  and  their  kirtles  of  homespun, 
And  by  the  evening  fire  rei  i^at  Evangeline's  story, 
Whi.o  from  its  rocky  caverns  the  deep-vuiced  neighboring  ocean 
Speaks,  and  in  acceuts  disconsolate  answers  the  wail  of  tlu>  forest." 

LoNGFKLLO\v"s  Evangfti'ne. 

The  road  runs  S.  W.  from  Bolhveau  Cove  to  Grosses  Cotjues  (300  inlial)i- 
tants)  and  I'ort  Acadie,  Clare,  and  Sanlnierville,  a  line  of  hamlets  who-^e 
inhabitants  are  engaged  in  farming  and  the  fisheries.  A  rotid  runs  7  M. 
E.  to  New  Tusket,  an  Aiigln-Acadiau  village  in  the  interior,  near  the 
island-studded  Lake  Wentworth.  Metei/han  (Sheehan's  Hotel)  is  ji  bay- 
side  village  of  700  inhabitants,  nearly  all  of  whom  are  Acadians  and  farm- 
ers. There  is  a  large  ciuire'i  hero,  and  halt  a-dozen  stores  lor  cnuutry 
trade  among  the  ueighl)uriiig  farmers.  iNIeleghan  is  tlie  last  village  on 
St.  Mury's  Bay,  and  the  ruud  now  turns  to  ihi  S.  uud  passes  the  inland 


■if.1 


■Ir 

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i'r 

■f 


iff  J 


Jill 


vm 


114       Route  23. 


YARMOUTH. 


H     ! 

■  I   |i 


m 


*i     '! 


t  \ 


li  J  M' 


hamlet  of  Chcticamp.  Cnpe  Core  is  an  Acadian  settlement,  and  is  finely 
situated  on  a  h('a<lland  wiiieli  faces  tlie  Atlantic  The  line  leaves  the 
vicinity  if  the  sea  and  strikes  inland  tlironi:;!!  a  region  of  'orests  and  lakes; 
reacliinf^  Yarmouth  about  13  ^I.  S.  of  I}ea'-er  Ifivcr. 

Yarmouth  (Hotel  Lv^ne;  Yarmouth  ;  Q  e^n)  is  a  wealthy  and  prosperous 
seaport  on  the  S.  W.  t  last  of  ^^oxa  Scotia,  and  is  situated  on  a  narrow 
lun-bor  ;}  M.  from  the  Atlantic.  It  has  i;,280  inhabitants,  withlflchurches, 
3  banks,  4  local  marine-insurance  companies,  and  semi-weekly  and 
wecikly  newspajiers.  It  Iks  u  pul)lic  library  and  a  small  museum  of  nat- 
ural his ory.  The  schools  are  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  Province,  and 
occup}'  conspicuous  buildings  on  the  ridge  back  of  the  town.  The  (.'ourt- 
Ilouse  is  in  the  ujjper  part  of  the  town;  near  whicii  is  the  si)acioi;s  Baptist 
church,  built  in  Novanglian  architecture.  The  Episcopal  church  is  a  new 
building,  and  is  one  of  the  best  in  Nova  Scotia.  1  M.  out  is  a  rural  ceme- 
tery of  40  acres.  Yarmouth  is  built  along  a  line  of  low  rocky  heights, 
over  a  harbor  which  is  nearly  drained  at  low  tide.  It  receives  a  goodly 
number  of  summer  visitors,  most  of  wliom  pass  into  the  Tusket  Lakes  or 
along  the  coast  to  the  E.,  in  search  of  sport. 

Yarmouth  has  been  called  the  most  Amerifan  of  all  the  Provincial  towns,  and  is 
endowed  with  tiie  eiierj^y  and  jiertinacity  of  New  England.  Thouj^h  o('cui)vnig  a 
remote  nituatioii  on  an  indilTerent  liarlior,  with  a  barren  and  incapable  back  country, 
this  town  has  risen  to  opulence  and  distinction  by  the  indomi'able  industry  of  its 
citizens.  In  ITol  tlie  sliijjping  of  the  country  was  confined  to  one  25-ton  flslxing-boat; 
in  1884  it  >  'uounted  to  over  30U  vessels,  measuring  125,000  tons,  and  is  now  far  ia 
advance  evei.  -^f  that  figure.  It  is  claimed  that  Yarmouth,  for  lier  population,  is 
tlie  largest  .hip  owning  port  in  the  world  In  addition  to  tbche  great  commercial 
fleets,  the  town  has  established  a  steaniship-Iine  to  St.  tlohn  an(l  Boston,  and  is 
building,  almost  alone,  the  Western-Counties  Railway  to  Annapolis.  It  is  expected 
that  great  lienefit  will  accrue  from  the  timber-districts  which  will  be  opened  by  this 
new  line  of  travel.  "  Varmouth's  financial  success  is  due  largely  to  the  jiractical 
judgment  and  sagacity  of  her  mariners.  She  has  reared  an  army  of  shiiunastcrs  of 
whom  any  country  might  be  proud,"  and  it  is  claimed  that  a  large  iiroportion  of 
the  Cape-Ann  fishmg-cnptains  are  natives  of  this  country.  On  the  adjacent  coast, 
and  within  12  M.  of  Yarmouth,  are  tne  marine  lianilets  of  Jegoggin,  Sandford 
(Cranberry  Head),  Arcadia,  Hebron,  Hartford,  Kelley's  Cove,  Jebogue,  Darling's 
Lake  (Short  Hcach),  and  Deerfield.  These  settlements  have  over  (),(.U0  iiihabit.ints 
in  the  aggregate.  The  coast  was  occupied  by  the  French  during  the  ITtli  century, 
but  was  afterwards  abandoned.  Aliout  the  middle  of  the  last  century  thc^'e  de- 
serted shores  were  taken  possession  of  by  colonies  of  fish'>rnien  from  Massiichu.>-etts 
and  CoiHiecticut,  who  wislted  to  be  lu'arer  their  fishing-grounds  ;  and  the  present 
population  is  descended  from  these  hardy  men  and  the  Losalists  of  17H8.  The  an- 
cient Jndiau  name  of  Yarmouth  was  Kfcxpongwillc,  which  means  "  Land's  End  ■' 

The  steel  steamships  Y;rmouth  and  Boston  ply  between  Yarmouth  and  Boston, 
leaving  Yarmouth  every  Monday,  Weduesiiay,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  attenioon  ; 
and  Itaving  Lewis  Wharf,  Boston,  every  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  at  10 
A  M.,atid  every  Saturday  at  (J  P.  M.  Time  of  voyjige,  17  hours;  fare,  §5  (return 
ticket,  ;?8). 

The  steamboat  for  Barrington,  Shelburne,  Lockeport,  Liverpool,  Lunenburg,  and 
llalifax  leaves  Yarmouth  early  Ibursday  mornings.  ,>.tarting  back  on  Mondav  even- 
ings. A  steamer  runs  t'r"m  YarnKuith  to  We-^tport  and  St.  John  every  Mondas  and 
Thursday  at  4  P.  M.,  leaving  to  return  Tnt>sd.iy  and  Friday. 

D  vison's  i-oHcues  leave  every  Wediie.-day  and  Saiurday  for  A.";ryle,  Uarrington, 
and  Slielburne. 

Yarmouth  has  many  handsome  residences  and  shops,  and  manufutories  of  iron 
goods,  machinery ,  steam-engines,  yaeiits,  yarns,  woollen  cloths,  etc.  It  is  the  second 
town  jn  the  Dominion  for  registered  tonnage. 


TUSKET  LAKES. 


RcAtien        115 


The   Tusket  Lakes  and  Archipelago. 

The  township  of  Yarmouth  contains  80  lakes,  and  to  a  bird  flying  overhead  it 
must!«wni  like  a  patchwork  of  blue  and  green,  in  which  the  blue  predominates. 
They  are  nearly  all  connected  with  the  Tasket  lliVer,  and  are  generally  small,  very 
irregular,  and  surrounded  by  young  forests.  They  rarelv  attain  the  width  of  1  M., 
and  are  strung  alcng  the  cour-e  of  the  river  and  its  tributaries,  joined  by  narrow 
aisles  of  water,  and  breaking  otf  into  bays  which  the  unguided  voyager  would  often 
ascend  in  mistake  for  the  main  channel  In  the  lower  lakes,  where  the  tide  Hows, 
near  Argyle  Bay,  are  profitable  eel-tislieries.  The  remoter  waters,  towards  the  liiue 
Mts.,  altord  good  trout-flshiug. 

Tlic  westerly  line  of  lakes  are  visited  from  Yarmouth  by  ridinj^  5  M.  out 
on  the  Digljy  road  and  then  turiiin<f  off  to  Deerjield,  near  the  Salmon-River 
Lakes  or  passinj^  over  to  the  settlement  at  Lake  George  (12-14  M.  from 
Yarmouth),  which  is  1^  M.  wide  and  3-4  M.  long,  and  is  the  largest  lake  in 
the  township.     A  little  farther  N.  is  the  Acadian  settlement  at  Cedar  Lake. 

The  best  route  for  the  sportsman  is  to  follow  the  Barrington  telegraph- 
road  10  M.  N.  E.  to  Tusket  {Aoiericon  Home),  a  prosperous  ehipbuilding 
village,  with  three  churches,  near  the  head  of  ship-navigation  on  the  Tus- 
ket Kiver.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  picturesque,  its  chief  feature 
beiiig  the  many  green  islands  off  the  shores;  and  the  river  has  been  famous 
for  fisheries  of  salmon  and  gaspereaux,  now  impaired  by  the  lumber-mills 
above.  From  this  point  a  chain  of  lakes  ascends  to  the  N.  for  20  M.,  iu- 
cludi  ig  the  central  group  of  the  Tuskets,  and  tenninatir.g  at  the  island- 
strewn  Lake  Wentworth.  Tlie  best  place  is  found  by  following  the  road 
which  runs  N.  E.  15-18  M.,  between  Vaughan  Lake  and  Butler's  Lake, 
and  by  many  lesser  ponds,  to  the  remote  settlement  of /Tort^y^  (small  hotel), 
near  the  head-waters  of  the  central  ,\\v\  western  groups.  To  the  N.  and  E, 
of  thi.-  point  are  the  trackless  forests  and  savage  ridges  of  the  Blue  Mts., 
and  the  hunter  can  traverse  these  wiids  for  40  M.  to  the  N.  E.  (to  the  Liv- 
erpool Lakes),  or  for  30  M.  to  the  S.  E  (to  the  Shelburne  settlements), 
without  meeting  any  permanent  evidences  of  civilization. 

Thfl  ancient  Indian  tradition  tells  that  squirrels  were  once  very  numerous  in  this 
region,  ami  grew  to  an  enormous  size,  endangering  the  lives  of  men.  But  the  Gieat 
Spirit  once  appeared  to  a  blameless  patriarch  of  the  Micniacs,  and  offered  to  reward 
his  virtue  by  granting  his  utmost  desire  After  long  meditation  the  chief  asked  the 
Divine  Visitor  to  bless  the  land  by  taking  the  power  from  tlie  mighty  squirrels,  upon 
which  the  m.indate  was  issued  and  the  dreaded  animals  shrank  to  their  pros;jnt  in- 
significant sizi-,  And  henco  it  is  known  that  ever  since  that  day  the  squirrel  haa 
been  querulous  at  the  sight  of  man. 


p.. 


':tx^ 


S.  of  Tusket  village  are  the  beautiful  groups  of  the  Tusket  Isles,  stud- 
ding the  waters  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  Abiiptic  Harbor.  Like  most  other 
collections  of  islands  on  this  continent,  they  are  popularly  supposed  to  be 
365  in  number,  though  thev  do  not  claim  to  possess  an  intercalary  islet 
like  tliat  on  Lake  Gc*)rge  (Xo»v  York),  wliieli  ainieart,  only  every  fourth 
year.  The  Tuskets  vary  in  size  from  Morris  Island,  which  is  3  M.  long, 
down  to  the  smallest  tuft-crowned  rocky,  and  afford  a  great  diversity  of 


iv 

••!r>f 


116     Jioute24. 


DIGBY    NECK. 


m 


scene'ry.  The  outer  fringe  of  the  archipelago  i  hreaded  by  the  Halifax 
and  Yarmouth  steamship  (see  page  I2b). 

"  The  scenery  of  Ar^N  lo  Hay  is  extremely  beautiful  of  its  kind  ;    innumerable 

islands  and  peiiin.-ulas  enilo.-e  the  water  iu  every  dirertiuu lottagcs  and  tul- 

tivated  laud  break  tne  nias.-'es  of  fureft.  and  tlie  masis  of  siiiall  fishiug-vessels  piep- 
iug  up  from  every  little  love  attest  tne  multiplied  resources  which  Nature  has  pro- 
vided for  the  supi»ly  of  the  inhabitants."     (Cai'T.  MooUnON.) 

AmouK  these  narrow  passes  hundreds  of  Acadi.ms  took  refuge  during  the  persecu- 
tions of  1768-bO.  A  liritisii  frigate  was  sent  down  to  hunt  them  out,  hut  one  of  her 
boats"  crews  was  destroyed  by  the  fugitives  among  the  islands,  and  they  were  not 
dislodged.  There  are  now  two  or  three  hamlets  of  Aeadiaus  iu  the  rcgiou  of  the 
upper  lakes. 

Lake  George  supplies  Yarmouth  with  watc-  (11  M.  distant ;  elevation,  105  ft ). 
Its  greitest  length  is  T  Al.,  and  brt-adtn  'Zk.  Tne  water  is  of  the  purest  quality ,  and 
as  tae  lake  is  fed  by  subterranean  springs  the  supply  is  inexhaustible. 

The  interior  of  Yarmouth,  Shelburne,  and  (Queen's  Counties  is  the  most  famous 
region  iu  the  Province  for  uioose-huuting,  and  hunters  from  the  I'rovinces,  the 
United  f*tates,  and  England  annually  engage  in  this  sport  during  the  open  .«ea*on 
and  are  generally  rewarded  by  splendid  success.  The  "open  season"  for  moo.-e- 
hunting  is  from  Sept.  15  to  Jan.  31.  The  "  open  season  "  fov  salmon-taking  is  from 
March  1  to  Aug.  1  ;  and  tue  "  open  season  "  lor  shooting  grouse  or  partridge  is  Irom 
Oct.  1  to  Jan.  1.  These  are  statutory  provisions,  the  violation  of  which  incurs  fines 
and  penalties. 

The  lakes  and  streams  of  Yarmouth  (Jouuty  are  easy  of  access  to  the  tourist,  who 
can  here  enjoy  at  comparatively  triHing  expense  a  natural  Sportsiuan's  Faradi.^e. 
Their  trout  and  salmon  flsheries  are  among  tiie  most  famous  ia  Ngva  Scotia,  aud 
hundreds  of  Americaus  have  yearly  visited  this  region. 

24.   Digby  Neck. 

Tri-weekly  stages  leave  Digby  for  this  remote  corner  of  Nova  Scotia.  Fare  to 
Sandy  Cove,  $1.50 ;  to  West  Port,  $2. 

Distances.  —  Digby  to  Rossway,  8*^  M. ;  Waterford,  12  ;  Centreville,  15  ;  Lake- 
Bide,  17  ;  Sandy  Cove,  20 ;  Little  i{ivi.'r,  25 ;  Petite  Passage,  80 ;  Free  Port ;  West 
Port,  40. 

The  stage  runs  S.  W.  from  Digby,  leaving  the  settlement.s  of  Marshall- 
town  and  Brighton  on  tha  1.,  across  the  Smelt  River.  The  first  hnmlet 
reached  is  Bosswnyy  Avhenoe  a  road  crosses  to  Gulliver's  Cove  on  the  Bay 
of  Fundy.  For  over  20  >L  the  road  descends  the  remarkable  peninsula 
of  Digby  Neck,  whose  average  width,  from  bay  to  bay,  is  about  I4  ^I. 
On  the  1.  is  the  continuous  range  of  dark  hills  which  marks  the  W.  end 
of  the  North  Mt.  range,  where  it  is  sinking  towa.ds  the  sea.  Among  these 
hills  are  found  fine  specimens  of  agate  and  ja.«per,  and  the  views  from  their 
summits  (when  not  hidden  by  trees)  reveal  broad  and  brilliant  stretches 
of  blue  water  on  either  side.  Fogs  are,  however,  very  prevalent  here,  and 
are  locally  supposed  to  be  rather  healthy  than  otherwise.  On  the  1  of  tlie 
road  are  the  broad  waters  of  St.  Mary's  Bay,  far  beyond  which  are  the 
low  and  rugged  Blue  Mts. 

Sandy  Cove  (small  inn)  is  the  metropolis  of  Digby  Neck,  and  has  400 
inhabitants  and  two  churches.  Its  people  live  by  farming  and  fishing, 
p.jd  support  a  fortnightly  packet-boat  to  St.  John,  N.  B.  4  M.  S.  E., 
across  St.  Mary's  Bay,  is  the  port  of  Weymoutli  (see  })age  112).  Beyond 
Little  River  village  the  stage  crosses  the  ridge,  and  the  passenger  passes 


NOVA-SCOTIA  COAST.         Route  S5.        117 


ucurs  flues 


the  Petite.  Paststfje,  which  separates  Diphy  Nock  from  Long  Island.  This 
strait  is  quite  deep  and  1  M.  wide,  and  has  i  red-and-white  flashing  liglit 
on  its  N.  W.  point  (lioar's  Head).  On  the  opposite  shore  of  the  passage 
is  a  village  of  390  inhabitants  (mostly  li^hormen),  ar.d  the  stage  now  runs 
down  Long  Island  on  the  15ay  of  Fun«./  side.  If  there  is  no  fog  the  view 
across  the  hay  is  pleasing,  and  is  usually  enlive:iod  hy  the  sails  of  passing 
vessels.  Long  Island  is  about  10  M.  long,  and  2  ^I.  wide,  and  its  village 
of  '^ree  Port  has  700  inhabitants. 

Near  the  end  of  Long  Island  anotiier  ferry-boat  is  taken,  and  the  trav- 
i'IIlm-  crosses  the  Grand  I'assage  to  West  Fort  (Cvntral  //<,uav),  a  village 
of  ij\)^)  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  iire  fishermen,  slii)>I)iiil(lers,  or  sea-cap- 
tains. Tills  town  is  on  Brier  Jsliuid,  the  S.  E.  p'>rial  of  the  Hay  «if  l-'iindy, 
and  is  5  M.  long  by  2  M.  wide.  On  its  E.  .-idc  are  two  lixed  white  liglits, 
and  on  the  W.  are  a  fog-whistle  and  a  powerful  white  light  visible  for 
15  M. 

25.   Halifax  to  Yarmouth.  —  The  Atlantic  Coast  of  Nova 

Scotia. 

The  steamer  of  the  Western  Shore  Line  rinis  along  the  coast  of  Nova 
Scotia,  leaving  Halifax  for  Yarnunith  every  Monday  at  10  v.  M.  A  vessel 
of  the  Fishwlck  Line  plies  between  Halifax.  Canso,  Arichat,  Port  Mul- 
grave,  Port  IlawUesbury,  Port  Hastings,  Hayludd,  and  Charlottetown, 
leaving  every  T'lesday  at  7  A.  n.,  and  giving  ncce«s  to  all  the  North- 
Shore  ports,  and   connecting  with   the   Bras  dOr  steamboats,  for  (Jape 

Breton , 

Fares.  —  Halifax  to  Lunenburg.  SLTjO;  to  Livorpool,  S.'?oO;  to  Sbelhurne, 
$4.50;  to  Yarmouth,  .'r5.  Lunenbiirp  to  Liverpnol.  82;  to  Shclburne,  Ht3 ;  to  Yar- 
mouth, .'S4. 50.  Liverpool  to  .Shelbuvne,  S2 ;  to  YiTiiioiith,  .*3  5(t.  Sbelburne  to 
YarmoutU,  .'#3.     Btrtlis  are  included  iu  tliese  prices,  but  tlie  meals  are  extra. 

"The  Atlantic  coast  of  Nova  S(otia,  from  Cape  Canso  to  Capo  Sable,  is  pierced 
with  innumerable  small  bays,  harbors,  and  rivers.  Tlie  sliores  are  lined  with  rocks 
and  thou.sands  of  islands ;  and  althoiij^h  no  part  of  the  country  can  properly  be  con- 
sidered mountainous,  and  there  are  but  tew  steep  high  cliffs,  yet  the  aspect  of  the 
whole,  if  not  romantically  sublime,  is  exceedingly  pic  iresque  ;  and  the  scenery,  in 
many  places,  is  richly  beautiful..  The  landscape  which  the  he.ul  of  Mahone  Bay,  in 
particular,  presents  can  scan  ely  be  surpassed."'     (M'Gr  gor's  British  America  ) 

"  The  j  ig'jed  outline  of  this  coast,  as  ^ee■n  upon  the  nu"i,  reminds  us  of  the  equally 
indented  Atlantic  shores  of  Scandiiii  via  ;  and  the  character  of  the  coast  as  he  sails 
along  it —  the  rocky  surface,  the  scanty  herbage,  and  the  endless  pine  forests—  re- 
call to  the  traveller  the  api^iirance  and  natural  productions  of  the  same  European 
country."    (1'hof.  Johnston.) 

The  steamer  passes  down  Halifax  Harbor  (see  page  93),  and  gains  the 
open  sea  beyond  Chebucto  Head  and  the  lighthouse  on  Snmbro  Island. 
She  usually  makes  a  good  ofiing  before  turning  down  the  coast,  in  order  to 
avoid  the  far-reaching  and  dangerous  Sap^;l)ro  Ledges.  W.  of  the  npon 
light  of  Pennant  Bay  is  ^Lars  Head,  on  whose  fatal  rocks  the  ocean  steam- 
ship Atlantic  was  wrecked,  iu  ISTiJ,  whcM  535  persons  were  drowned. 


m 

'sj 


fi 


Mi.1 


1\i 


■■?■ 

'I. 

■'/■: 


'11., 


^'4 


U: 


MA 


'J' 


i 


118        Route  25. 


LUNENBURG. 


M 


ii 


I 


w 


This  lino  of  coast  hns  boon  famous  for  its  ninrino  {li^nsterf.    In  1779  the  BrJtinh 

vnr-vcs^cls  I^'urtli  uiiil  Htliim  were  nvk  <  k( d  i.tarSiiii  I'lo.iuid  170  men  wen  clmwiud. 
Mars  Ilciid  ikrivi's  iff  iiaii.*-  tVoiii  tlic  tm  t  that  tlic  Hritisli  liiu'-of-liattio  ship  Mars, 
7(>  frims,  was  wrecked  ujioii  its  black  iedp>.  In  177!>  Hie  Aiiiericaii  war-vessel  Vifer, 
22,  attacked  II.  M.  S.  lii.sdUitidu,  jut^t  oil  .*«audirci,  and  captured  hcruftcT  a  lorifj  and 
desperate  i)attle,iii  which  Imtii  sliipswcre  liadl\  c  ut  to  pieces.  C'Hie  ^Hiiiliro  was 
nair.ed  l>.v  tiie  ii.ariiiers  of  St.  IVhilo  earlv  in  tiie  17th  (  eiitury  ;  and  it  is  thought  that 
tiio  prenMit  form  of  the  name  is  a  corruiition  of  Sf  Ondre,  tlie  ori^^iiial  de.Mjrnation. 
Tlio  ancient  Latin  hnoU  called  tlie  Noriis  Orhis  (piililislu'd  h_v  Elzevir;  Amsterdam, 
l(-83)  says  tliat  tlie  islands  hotwcon  Cape  Sandiro  (SfsiDiibrf)  and  Mahono  Bay  were 
called  the  >hirt\  rs"  Isles,  on  account  of  the  Freuclmien  who  had  there  been  aiaa- 
eacifd  hy  the  heatheu  Indians. 

Beyond  Cape  Prospect  the  deep  iiulentutions  of  St.  Margaret's  Bay  and 
Mahone  Bay  make  in  on  the  N.,  and 

"  brc>czy  Aspotojron 
Lifts  higli  it.s  fiuiniiiit  blue  ' 

The  roughest  water  of  the  voyage  is  usually  found  while  crossing  the 
openings  of  these  bays.  The  course  is  hiid  for  Cross  Island,  wliere  tliero 
are  two  lights,  one  of  which  is  visible  for  14  M.  Passing  close  in  by  this 
island,  the  steamer  enters  that  pretty  bay  which  was  formerly  known  to 
the  Indians  as  Mdlujash,  or  "  Milky,"  on  account  of  the  whiteness  of  its 
stormy  surf.  At  tlu'  head  of  this  bay  the  white  and  compact  town  of 
Lunenburg  is  seen  between  two  round  green  hills.  The  steamer  pastes 
around  the  outermost  of  these,  and  enters  the  snug  little  harbor. 

"  The  town  of  Lunenburg  is  situated  at  the  innermost  extremity  of  a  peninsula, 
and  to  a  ndlitary  traveller  i)resciits  a  more  formidable-  a.-pcct  than  any  other  in  Nov.' 
Scotia,  the  ujjper  liouses  beiiifi  placed  on  the  crests  of  steep  glacis  slopes,  so  as  to 
bear  upon  all  approaches  "    (C.vi'T.  Moorson.) 

Lunenburg  (King's  Hotel)  is  a  thriving  little  seaport,  situated  on  a  se- 
cure and  spacious  barltor,  and  enjoying  a  lucrative  West-India  trade. 
Together  with  its  innricdiate  environs,  it  has  4,000  inhabitants,  of  whom 
over  half  are  in  the  port  itself.  The  German  character  of  the  citizens  is 
still  retained,  though  not  so  completely  as  in  their  rural  settlements;  and 
the  principal  churches  are  Lutheran.  The  public  buildings  of  Lunenburg 
C'ounty  are  located  here.  A  large  trade  in  lumber  and  fish  is  carried  on,  in 
addition  to  the  southern  exports.  There  are  numerous  farming  communi- 
ties of  Germanic  origin  in  the  vicinity;  and  the  shore-roads  exhibit  at- 
tractive phases  of  marine  scenery.  7  jNI.  distant  is  the  beai;tifully  situated 
•''  ^  ge  of  Mahone  Baij  (see  Route  26) ;  4  M.  distant  are  the  remarkable  sea- 
■  .      ledges  called  the  Blue  Rocks;  to  the  S.  ?]   is  the  rural  settlement  of 

.  ."^tiburg  Peninsula,   oil"  which  are  the  sea-girt  farms  of  Ileckman's 


i..-i;ul 


md  12  M.  distant  is  the  cold  district  of  The  Orens. 


This  site  was  anciently  occupied  by  the  Tndiiin  village  of  Mala^nsh.  In  1745  the 
British  frovernment  issued  a  proclamation  invitinj?  (ierman  Protestants  to  emigrate 
to  Nova  Scotia  and  take  uj)  its  imoccniiied  lands  In  17";8,  £00  families  of  Germans 
and  Swiss  settled  at  Lnnenbnrjr.  and  \v,>re  provided  with  farming  iiiiplc'ments  and 
three  years'  provisions  l)y  the  government.  Tliev  fortiliod  their  new  domains  as 
well  as  possible,  but  n»any  of  t'ie  peop'e  wc-o  killed  by  Tndiins  b'rkingin  the?  woods. 
The  settlement  was  thus  held  in  cb(>ck  until  after  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  when  the 
iDiiians  ceased  hostilities.    Jn  1777  the  town  was  uttackecl  by  two  American  prira' 


IRONBOUND  ISLAND. 


Route  2o. 


119 


e  British 
arnwiifd. 
i|)  Mars, 
scl  Vifier, 
lonj;  iiiid 
»lir<>  vMis 
iiVflit  tliat 
ifrnation. 
iKterdnm, 
IJaj  were 
iceu  uiaa- 


Bay  and 


sing  the 
M-e  tliero 
1  by  this 
nown  to 
3SS  of  its 
town  of 
31"  pasires 


peninsula, 
trill  Nova 
!,  80  as  to 


on  a  se- 
ia  trade, 
f  wiiom 
tizens  is 
nts;  and 
inenburg 
ed  on,  in 
initnuni- 
libit  at- 
sltuated 
able  sea- 
ment  of 
ekman's 


toers,  wlio  landod  detnciuiienta  of  arinod  men  and  occupied  the  principal  buildings- 
After  plunderintj;  the  place  and  securiiiK  a  valuable  booty,  these  unwclcnnie  visitors 
sailed  away  rejoicinjr,  Icjr  inj^  l.iiiii'nburj;  to  put  on  the  robes  of  war  and  anxiously 
yearn  for  anotluT  naval  attack,  for  whose  reception  spirited  provisions  were  made. ' 
Among  the  people  throughout  this  county  (Jerman  customs  are  still  preserved,  as 
at  weddings  and  fuiuTals  ;  the  (Jerman  language  is  sj-oken  ;  and  .sermons  are  di'liv- 
ered  ofUnitinii's  in  the  .same  tongu<'.  The  cows  are  made  to  do  service  in  ploughing, 
and  the  funning  implements  are  of  a  primitive  pattern.  A  large  portion  of  the  out- 
door work  iu  'he  tields  is  done  l»\  the  womeu,  who  are  generally  strong -ind  muscular. 

The  Nova-Scotia  Central  liaiiway  runs  from  Lunenburg  to  Brid^^ewater, 
and  to  Middletoti  (see  page  8.i)-  Steamboats  .sail  from  Lunenuurg  for 
Halifax  every  Tuesday  and  Friday. 

Tlie  steamer  leaves  Lunenburg  Harbor,  passes  Battery  Point  and  its 
lighthouse  on  the  !.,  and  descends  between  the  knob-like  hills  of  the  outer 
harbor.  On  the  r.  are  the  shores  of  the  rem.irkable  peninsula  of  The 
Ovens.  The  low  clifts  along 

this  shore  are  pierced  by  numerous  caverns,  three  of  wiiich  are  70  ft.  wide 
at  their  mouths  and  over  200  ft.  deep.  The  sea  dashes  into  these  dark 
r3cesses  during  a  heavy  swell  witli  an  amazing  roar,  broken  by  deep 
booming  reverberations. 

In  1861  gold  was  discovered  on  the  Ovens  peninsula,  and  2,000 
ounces  were  obtained  during  lliat  autumn,  since  which  the  mining  fever 
has  subsided,  and  no  earnest  work  has  been  done  here.  The  precious  metal 
'/as  obtained  chiefly  by  washing,  and  but  little  was  effected  in  the  way 
of  quartz-crushing. 

Beyond  Ovens  Head  the  pretty  circular  indentation  o^  Rose  Bay  is  seen 
on  the  r.,  on  whose  shores  is  a  settlement  of  250  German  farmers.  The 
steamer  now  passes  between  Cross  Island  (1.)  and  Rose  Head,  which  are 
about  2  M.  apart,  and  enters  the  Atlantic.  When  a  sufficient  offing  lias 
been  made,  the  course  is  laid  S.  W.  ^  W.  for  8^:  ^L  Point  Enrag^  is  soon 
passed,  and  then  the  vessel  approaches  *  Ironbound  Island.  This  re- 
markable rock  is  about  h,  AL  long,  and  rises  from  the  sea  on  all  sides  in 
smooth  curves  of  dark  and  iron-like  rock,  on  which  the  mighty  surges 
of  the  Atlantic  are  broken  into  great  sheets  of  white  and  hissing  foam. 
Upon  this  dangerous  outpost  of  Nova  Scotia  there  is  a  revolving  light, 
v.iiich  is  visible  for  13  M.  Beyond  Ironbound,  on  the  r.,  is  seen  the  deep 
estuary  of  tlie  Lahave  River,  which  is  navigable  to  Bridgowater,  a  distance 
of  1.3  M.,  passing  for  12  M.  tlirough  the  hamlets  of  New  Dublin,  and  thence 
through  a  valley  between  higli  and  knob-like  hills. 

At  Fort  La  Ileve  in  163^5- 7,  died  Isaac  de  Razilly,  "  Knight  Commander  of  the 
Order  of  St.  .John  of  .lerusaleni,  Lioutenant-Geiieral  of  Acadie,  and  Captain  of  tlie 
West."  He  was  a  relative  of  Cardinal  Kichelieu,  and  had  fought  in  the  campiigns 
of  Ija  Uochjlle  and  the  coast  of  .Morocco.  In  1642  D'Aulnay  purchased  these  do- 
mains from  Claude  de  lltizidy,  but  soon  evacuated  tlu!  idiu-e,  removing  the  people  to 
Port  Llt)yal,  By  \\\'A  tlie  "'olony  !i:id  recovered  itself,  having  ''  uouuubteuiy  tiie 
best  port  and  the  best  soil  in  the  whole  country."  It  was  then  attacked  by  the 
Sieur  le  Uorgne,  who  burned  all  its  houses  and  the  chapel  At  a  later  day  the  new 
Fort  La  HtJve  was  attacked  by  a  strong  force  of  New-England  troops  who  were 
beaten  olF  several  times  with  the  loss  of  some  of  their  best  men.  But  the  brave 
Frenchmen  were  fi»ally  forced  to  surrender,  and  the  place  was  reduced  to  ruius. 
Iq  1705  the  settlement  was  again  destroyed  by  Boston  privateers. 


V;,'. 

,   Is- 
...  4, 


#1 


i 


:« 

it  ^, 


120 


Ruide  25. 


LIVERPOOL. 


f  -^^ 


Whon  off  Cfipn  Laliavo  the  steamer  tnkes  a  course  \V.  by  S.,  whicli  is 
followed  for  V\:\  M.  The  ri'liiiifi  liiiiiilct  of  Broad  Cove  is  on  the  shore 
S.  W.  of  (^!ipe  Lahiive;  and  when  about  !»  M.  from  the  cape,  the  entraneo 
of  Port  Medway  i^  seen.  This  harl)i)r  Is  4  M.  lonj,'  and  1.^  M.  wide,  and 
receives  the  waters  of  the  Port  Medway  and  Pedley  h'ivers.  Port  Med- 
way ( I)nii|thy's  Hotel)  is  on  its  \V.  sliore,  and  hns  600  inhabitants,  who 
are  enj^a^je*!  in  siiiphnildinjj  arid  hunbeiin^. 

The  steamer  soon  rounds  the  revolvini;  red  liijht  (visible  IC  M.)  on  Cof- 
fin's Island,  and  turns  to  the  N.  W.  up  Liverpool  Bay.  The  slH)res  are 
well  inhaljited,  with  the  settlement  of  .UoDse  Ilnrhov  on  the  ].,  and  lirook- 
hjn  (or  Herring  Cove)  on  the  r.  The  lighthouse  on  Fort  Point  is  rounded 
and  the  ves&el  enters  the  mouth  of  the  Liverpool  River,  with  a  line  of 
wharves  on  the  1.,  and  the  briiige  in  advanc-. 

Liverpool  (  VUl(t(je  Cnta  JIutel,  a  comfortable  summer-house;  and  two 
other  inns)  is  a  flourishing  seaport  with  3,102  inliabitants,  5  churches,  a 
weekly  paper,  and  a  bank.  Its  principal  industries  are  lumbering,  fish- 
ing, ahd  shipbuilding  The  town  occupies  the  rocky  shore  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Liverpool  River,  and  its  streets  are  adorned  with  numerous  large 
shade  trees.  Many  summer  visitors  come  to  this  place,  either  on  account 
of  its  own  attractions,  or  to  seek  the  trout  on  the  adjacent  streams  and 
lakes  (see  Route  27).  There  arc  pleasant  drives  also  on  the  Mill- "Village 
Road,  and  around  the  shores  of  the  bay. 

Liverpool  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Indian  domain  of  Osumke^fnk,  made 
classic  in  the  traditions  of  tlie  Micnincs  by  tin;  ( clilirafed  cii'onntcr  which  took 
place  here  between  the  divine  (ilooscap  (see  pajre  lU(i)  and  tlie  great  sorceres.*  of  the 
Atlai'tic  coast.  The  struggle  of  cralt  and  malevolence  agiiin>t  ^u|l(•rior  power  are 
quaintly  narrated,  thongii  taking  forms  not  jjlea^ing  to  rctii.ed  n  inds,  and  the  con- 
test ciuls  in  the  defeat  of  the  hag  of  U^umktu,euk^  who  is  rent  in  pieces  by  the 
bunting-dogs  of  (ilooscap. 

In  May,  1G04,  the  hari)or  of  Liverpool  was  entered  by  Pierre  dn  Gna.«t,  '•  Sicnr  de 
Monts  of  Sanitonge,  Gentleman  in  Ordinary  of  the  Chandier,  and  Governor  of  Pons," 
who  had  secureil  a  monopoly  of  tlie  fur-trade  between  40°  and  54°  N.  latitude.  He 
found  a  ship  here  trading  without  authority,  and  conliccated  her,  naming  the  har- 
bor Pov.  Kossignol,  after  her  cajUain,  "as  though  M.  de  Monts  had  wished  to  make 
pome  comjiensation  to  the  man  for  the  loss  he  inflicted  on  liini,  by  inniiortalizing 
his  n.'inii'."  This  design;ition  did  not  hold  to  the  harbor,  but  has  been  transferred 
to  tlie  large  and  beautiful  lake  near  the  bead-waters  of  the  Liverpool  River 

ALoat  1(34  a  yliore-fishery  was  established  here  by  M  l)en\s  and  Gov.  Razilly. 
This  enterprise  was  for  a  long  time  successful,  but  was  finally  crijjplcd  by  the  cap- 
ture of  its  heavily  laden  freigliting-shi))  by  tb.e  Portuguese.  Soon  afterward  Denys 
was  forced  to  leave  Port  Kossignol  on  account  of  the  machinations  of  D'Aulnay 
Charnisay,  and  the  settlement  was  broken  up.  Py  the  year  1700  a  thriving  village 
Ptood  on  this  site,  and  in  the  War  of  1812  many  active  privateers  were  fitted  out  liere. 
In  1832  the  port  owned  25,000  tons  of  shipping." 

On  leaving  Liverpool  Bay  the  steamer  rounds  Western  Head  and  runs 
S.  W.  i  S.  14  M.  On  the  r.  is  the  deep  embayment  of  Port  ^louton, 
partly  sheltered  by  Mouton  Island,  and  lighted  by  a  fixed  red  light  on 
Spectacle  Island.  At  its  head  is  the  farming  and  fishing  settlement  of 
Port  Mouton,  with  350  inhabitants.  This  inlet  was  visited  by  the  ex- 
ploring ship  of  the  Sieur  de  Monts  in  1604,  and  received  the  name  which 


SIIELDURNE. 


Route  25. 


121 


.,  which  is 
the  shore 

le  eiitnmce 
wide,  mid 

Tort  Mod- 

tuiits,  who 

il. )  on  Cof- 
shoros  lire 
iiid  Brook- 
is  rounded 
1  a  line  of 

^\  and  two 

Iiurcheis,  a 
ering,  fi'ih- 
tlie  mouth 
M'ous  large 
on  account 
h'oanis  and 
lill-Village 


es;enk,  mftde 
which  took 
ert'ss  of  the 
r  powtr  are 
11(1  the  con- 
it'ces  by  the 

•  Picur  (le 
or  of  Pons," 
titiule.  lie 
iig  the  hur- 
led to  niiike 
iiiiortahziiig 

trausl'erred 
ver 

ov.  Rnzilly. 
by  the  cap- 
\\»n\  Deny 9 
it  iJ'Aulriay 
viiig  village 
ed  out  here. 


1  and  runs 
^louton, 
d  light  on 

eiTient  of 
jy  the  ex- 

me  which 


it  still  hears  hccnu'c  a  shoop  here  lenped  from  the  deck  into  the  bay  and 
wn^  drowned.  The  shor'iw  were  settled  in  17*^3  by  the  disl)and('d  veterans 
of 'I'arlt'ton's  Logion,  wlio  had  done  siudi  valiant  service  in  the  Carolinas. 

In  July,  1022,  Sir  U'illiiun  Alexander's  iiioniK^r-ship  entered  Port  Monton,  "and 
disrovercd  three  very  i)le;isant  liarborH  and  went  awliore  in  one  of  them,  whieli,  after 
the  fiidp's  name,  tliey  called  LuUes  Hay,  where  they  fmuid,  agreat  way  uj),  a  very 
pleasant  river,  being  three  fathoiiiH  deep  at  the  entry  thereof,  and  on  every  side  of 
the  same  they  did  .«ee  very  delicate  ineailows,  iiaviiig  Roses  white  and  re  I  growing 
tliereon,  with  a  kind  of  whi'e  Lilv,  which  hula  daii^ty  smell."  These;  shores,  which 
were  hardly  so  fair  as  the  old  mariner  i)ainted  them,  were  soon  occupied  by  a  French 
post,  after  whose  ih'struetion  they  remained  in  solitude  for  over  a  century. 

On  Little  Hope  Island  is  a  revolving  red  light,  beyond  wliich  the  steamer 
runs  W.  S.  \V.  1')  .M.;  then  Port  Jolt  opens  to  the  N.  W.,  on  which  is  a 
fishing-village  of  200  iiiliabitatits.  About  3  M.  beyond  is  Port  Herbert,  a 
deep  and  narrow  estuary  with  anotlier  maritime  hamlet.  Fan'"  er  VV.  is 
the  mouth  of  iSalile  IJivcr  ;  but  the  stoanior  holds  a  course  too  far  out  to 
distinguish  mucli  of  these  low  shores.  3^  M.  N.  is  Jinm  hhtud^  \V.  of 
which  are  the  ledges  off  Kagged  Island  Harbor,  at  whose  head  is  a  village 
of  350  inhabitants.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  harbor  is  Locke's  Inhmd  (two 
inns),  a  prosperous  little  port  of  400  inhiibitants,  whence  the  West-India 
trade  and  the  B:ink  fisheries  are  carried  on.  Diirii  g  the  season  of  1874 
70,000  quintals  of  lish  (vahu'd  at  $250,000)  were  exported  from  this  point. 
On  Carter's  Island  is  a  fixed  red  light,  and  the  sea-swept  ledge  of  Gull 
Rock  lies  outside  of  tlie  luirbor,  and  Ikis  u  powerful  Mhite  light.  Beyond 
Western  Head  the  steamer  runs  across  the  wide  estuaries  of  Green  Harbor 
and  the  Jordan  Hiver,  on  whose  shores  are  four  maritime  hamlets.  The 
course  is  changed  to  N.  W.  ^  N.,  and  Boiiy's  and  Government  Points  are 
passed  on  the  r.  On  the  1.  Cape  Rose  way  is  approached,  on  which  are 
two  fixed  white  lights,  visible  for  aO  and  18  M.,  standing  in  a  black-and- 
white  striped  tower.  Passing  between  Surf  Point  and  Sand  Point  the  ves- 
sel turns  N.  by  E.,  leav'ng  liirchtonm  Bay  on  the  1.,  and  runs  up  to  Shel- 
burne.  The  last  few  miles  are  traversed  between  the  picturesque  shores 
of  a  l)ay  whcli  an  enthusiastic  mariner  has  called  "  the  best  in  the  world, 
except  the  hariior  of  Sydney,  in  Australia." 

Shelburne  (Shdburne  House,  T.  E.  Kyer,  proprietor),  is  the  capital  of 
Shelburne  Couiily,  and  has  over  1,()(J0  inliabitautt  and  5  churches.  It 
is  engaged  cliietiy  m  lishing  and  shipbuilding,  and  excels  in  the  latter 
branch  of  business.  The  harbor  is  9  M.  long  an'l  1-2  M.  wide,  and  has 
5-7  fathoms  of  water,  without  :iny  shoals  or  flats.  It  is  completely  land- 
locked, but  can  never  attain  any  commercial  importance,  owing  to  the 
fact  that  it  is  frozen  solid  during  the  winter,  there  being  no  river  currents 
or  strong  tides  to  agitate  the  water.  There  are  granite-ledges  near  the 
village,  and  the  Roseway  River  empties  into  the  baj'  1  M.  distant.  Birch- 
town  is  5  M.  from  Shelburne,  and  is  at  the  head  of  a  branch  of  the  bay.  It 
is  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of  the  negro  slaves  brought  from  Mary- 
land and  Virginia  by  the  Loyalist  refugees,  in  1783.  The  country  back 
6  * 


,L:i!,t' 


In 


' '  .■  *  . 

I  ■'  / , 

..  .J,-, 

.'■'■■' 

■ }' 

'  ilk 

■4 


M 


■U  .'I 


1 

"it"-'. 

,;■;    - 

m 


m 


■if  i   ' 

'•.A3    .?     '. 


I!  a      i'<': 


122        RnuU  25. 


PORT  T.ATOUR. 


of  Sbelhtjrnp  is  iinimprovcfl,  nnd  the  ronfl«  soon  trrmiiintf  in  tho  prent  for- 
ests jibout  I  he  liliii'  Mt-.  StappH  run  frfiui  tlii'*  town  K.  ii»m1  W.  rnros, 
Sliolltiirnc  to  Liverpool,  $'2.50;  to  liarrinjitoii,  $1.50;  to  Ynrnioutli,  $4. 

"Tho  town  (if  SlH'll)iini('  Jx  Mtimti-il  nt  thi>  N.  cxtrcmUy  of  a  heiuitifiil  Inlet,  10  M. 
\\\  k  iijitli  anil  2- U  M  in  lin-adtli,  in  wliich  tlic  w  In.lc  ruMil  niiv\  r.f  (iital  llrifaln 
lnijj;lit  \'u\  cDniiiU'ti'ly  lamlltK  kiil  "  In  17^<tJ  lar|f<'  nninlx-rs  of  AniiTican  LftMiii.-til 
fcttlid  licic.  hopintf  to  cicHt  a  ^rrr.'it  ( lt.\  rtn  this  iiiirivnlUMl  hail>ir.  Tlu'v  l)l•()^l^'bt 
tlioir  »it>r^  ail  ^  anil  ('(|ni|>a(;«>M,  anil  <  r<ralili>lu-(l  a  cuitin'Ml  nictidpoliran  t'ot  icfy.  Shcl- 
liurnn  Mti.n  iiin  ahead  of  Halifax,  an<l  nicahnrcs  \vt  re  talti'ii  to  tranftiT  tho  FJ-nt  of 
povoninunt  lit  iv.  Within  oi c  .\«iir  the  priniival  fort'^t  wan  r«'|>ln(»'(l  I13  n  ritv  of 
12,0(10  Inhahitants  (of  whoni  l,'J(t(l  \m'1('  n<^rro«'si  'i  hi?  ohficnrc  hanih-t  which  hn<l 
Vct'ii  fonii  U'll  hero  (nndir  the  name  of  New  .hTtiMalcni '  in  17'  '  van  r«'|(la(  cd  h_\  a 
II  ctroiinlis  ;  and  (iov  I'air  toon  entered  the  hay  on  the  fripttf  1  So/i/iii ,  amid  tlio 
roaiin^;  of  saluting  batteries,  and  named  the  new  ( it.\  .'^liell.ui'iHS  lint  the  plaro 
liad  no  rnral  liael<-eonntry  to  snpply  and  he  enriched  hy  :  and  the  colonists,  inosfly 
patricians  from  the  Atlantic  ( itics,  conld  not  and  wonld  not  en>rMjre  in  the  flsherie;*. 
Till'  money  whiih  they  IkuI  hronplit  from  their  old  homes  was  at  ia.-r  exlianstod,  and 
then  "  Shellinrne  dwindled  into  insignificance  alinost  as  iafiidl.\  as  it  luid  risei>  to 
notoriety  ''  Many  of  its  people  retnrned  contritely  to  the  United  States ;  and  tlio 
popnlation  here  soon  sank  to  40(1.  "  It  is  onl_\  the  sight  of  a  few  lai  .'c  f^torehon^cs, 
wi'h  decay 0(1  timhers  ninl  window-frames,  standing  near  the  wharves,  that  vill  lead 
him  to  (onclnde  that  tho.-e  wharves  mnst  once  liavo  ti'emed  with  shipmasters  and 
sailors.  TIk!  streets  of  tin;  town  are  chnnged  into  avennes  honnded  h\  stone  fence.i 
on  either  side,  in  which  grass  jdants  contest  the  )ialni  of  supremacy  with  stoacfl." 
Within  two  years  over  .'?2,5(/0,()00  were  sunk  in  the  Ibunding  of  Shelburne. 

The  stnamer  leaves  Sholl)urno  by  the  same  course  on  whicii  she  entered, 
Avitli  the  stunted  forests  of  McXutt's  Island  on  the  r.  Rounding  Cape 
JioKeiraij  witliin  1  M.  of  tlie  liiilits,  slie  run*  down  by  (Jray's  Ishind,  pass- 
in<;  Hound  Bay  and  tlie  handet  of  Blaek  Point,  on  tlie  bold  headhmd  of 
tlie  same  name.  Ni'f/ro  hlmd  is  tlien  J^ec  »  on  the  r.,  and  is  occupied  by 
a  ])opulation  of  nsjiermen;  while  its  N.  K.  poi?it  has  a  powerful  red-and- 
white  fhishinp;  lijiht.  Inside  of  this  island  is  the  broad  estuary  of  the  Clyde 
River,  and  near  by  is  the  larpe  ;nid  pictinvsque  rishin,L''-vil]a}re  of  Cape 
Nvtjvo.  Cape  Nearro  was  so  named  by  Cliamplain,  in  1004,  "on  account 
of  a  rock  which  at  a  distance  reseml)lcs  one."  The  steamer  then  pjisses 
the  Salvage  Rocks,  oil"  Blanche  Island  (Point  Jeffreys),  and  opens  the 
broad  bay  of  Port  Latour  on  the  N.  W.  This  haven  was  the  scene  of 
stirring  events  during  the  17th  century,  and  the  remains  of  the  fort  of 
Claude  de  la  Tour  are  still  visible  here. 

"  Clande  Turgis  de  St.  Esfiennr,  Sionr  de  la  Tonr,  of  the  province  of  Champagne, 
quitted  I'lris,  taking  with  him  his  son  Oharlea  Amador,  then  14  years  old.  to  -ettle 
in  Acadia,  near  Pontrincourt,  who  was  then  engaged  in  tonnding  Port  lloyal."'  17 
years  afterwards,  Charles  snreeedcd  to  the  government  on  the  death  of  liiencourt, 
Pontrinconrt's  Kon,  and  for  4  yetrs  held  Fort  .*<t  bonis,  in  the  present  Port  Latour. 
Meantinie  Claude  had  been  cai)ture(l  by  tin;  Engli>h  and  carried  to  fiondon,  where 
he  was  knighted,  and  then  nnn'ried  one  of  the  Queen's  maids-of-honor.  lleing  a 
IFtigxieTiot,  lie  was  the  more  ea-ily  seduced  from  his  allegiance  to  France,  and  he 
olfered  to  the  King  to  procure  the  surrender  of  Fort  St.  Louis  (the  only  French  post 
then  held  in  Acadia)  to  the  Flnglish  So  he  sailed  to  Nova  Scotia  witli  two  frigates, 
and  asked  his  son  to  yield  up  the  stronghold,  offering  him  high  honors  at  London 
and  the  supreme  eonuimnd  in  Acadia,  on  behalf  of  the  English  power  "Claude  at 
once  toiil  liis  father  that  he  was  mistaken  in  supposing  him  capable  of  giving  up  the 
place  to  the  enenies  of  the  state  That  h.  '.tould  preserve  it  for  the  king  his  master 
while  he  had  a  breath  of  life.     That  he  es  ,eemed  highly  the  dignitiea  otlei'ed  him  by 


CAPE  SABLE. 


JioiUe  25. 


123 


utli,  $4. 

Inlpt,  in  M. 
•«'al  Hiifiiln 
II  I,()Miii>t(i 
i«'V  lil()lij;l)t 
licf.v.  ^Jirl- 
the  Fcnt  of 
13  a  rity  of 
whit  liluid 
•la((Ml  liy  II 
" ,  aniiii  tlio 
lit  till*  iiliirw 
ists,  iiio.xfly 

llO  tl>ll(M  i((«. 

fiiistcd,  (111(1 
'III  ri.H'ih  to 
IS  ;  and  tho 
torclioni-es, 
at  V  ill  limd 
lasttTs  and 
tone  fi'iu  t'S 
Hi  htonoa." 
10. 

e  entered, 
ling  Vnpe 
ind,  pass- 
uIIjukI  of 
upied  l)v 

red-and- 
the  Clyde 
!  of  Cape 
I  account 

n  passes 
)poiis  the 

scene  of 
e  fort  of 


lampnjrno, 
I,  to  M'ttle 
nnl  ■•  17 
liieiirourt, 
rt  Latciur. 
on,  wlicre 
lU'iiig  a 
(',  and  he 
•onch  post 
o  frigates, 
it  London 

r<lo..rln    n» 

ng  np  the 
li'^  master 
id  hiui  by 


the  Fn(?H«h  klnit,  hut  R^mtild  not  buy  thpm  at  the  prlcp  of  tiTMon.  That  the  prince 
he  servt'd  wan  (it>lt'  to  ri'(|uii«'  hhii:  mid  if  not,  that  fld»dity  waM  it.^  own  be»t  n-roni* 
pence  "  The  futluT  •'inploytMl  alTtrtionaf*'  intrnos^ion  and  hold  int'iiace,  ttllk<>  in 
vain  ;  and  tlu'  Kiigli^h  mivul  ( oniniandiT  thi-n  laiidcil  liis  forces,  but  wuk  st'Vcndy 
rt'piilsi'd  from  the  fort,  and  finally  gavt*  np  tin'  si<'m'  A  trtiiror  to  Fraiicf  and  it 
raiHc  of  illsastor  to  Kngland,  fiic  nnfortnnate  lii  Totir  dared  not  rt  ;iirii  to  Kun)p<', 
but  advi^'d  Ids  pitriciai.  wlte  to  ;^o  biuk  with  thi'  Mvi-t,  siii<  i;  naught  now  rfiiiaiiifd 
for  liiin  Jnit  |wn"ry  and  iiiis^-ry.  '^'hi'  noble  lady  replied,  "  that  she  had  not  inarrieil 
him  to  abindoii  him,  Tliiit  wherever  he  sliould  talte  her,  and  in  whatever  eondi- 
tlon  he  might  bo  pliu'od,  she  would  always  be  his  fiithful  compatdon,  and  that  all 
her  happiness  would  con-'ist  in  soft<Mdng  his  u'rlef."  lie  then  threw  himself  on  the 
rlemeiicy  of  his  son,  wlio  tempered  liilal  alTcetlon  with  military  vigilanee,  and  wel- 
comed liie  elder  La  Tour, with  liix  family,  servants,  and  equipage,  giving  him  a  house 
and  liberal  subsistence,  hut  making  and  eiiforcing  the  condition  that  neither  him  elf 
nor  his  wife  should  ever  enter  I'ort  St  l.oul.4.  There  they  lived  In  happiness  and 
comfort  for  many  years.    (Sec  also  page  19.) 

The  hamlet  of  I'ort  Lufotir  is  seen  on  the  inner  shore,  und  the 
ves«el  rounds  the  long  low  promontory  of  Bnccaro  Point,  on  which  is  a 
small  village  and  a  lixeil  red  light  (visible  12  M. )•  On  the  W  i»  Capr 
Sable  Island,  which  is  7  M.  long  and  2-3  M.  wide,  and  has  n  i)opulatio  . 
of  1,036,  with  three  churches.  Its  first  settlers  were  tho  Krench  Aeadii-r.s, 
who  had  prosperous  little  hamlets  on  the  slioi  s.  In  August,  ^T.'jS,  400 
soldiers  of  the  35th  British  Regiment  laiide(l  here  and  destroye<  (lu  settle- 
ments, and  carried  pviest  and  people  away  to  Halifax.  About  1784  the 
island  was  occupied  by  Loyalists  from  the  Xew-Knglan<l  coasts,  whose  de- 
scendnnt.s  are  daring  and  adventtu'ous  mariners.  Cape  Sable  is  on  an 
outer  islet  at  the  extreme  S.  ))()int  of  the  island  and  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  is 
8-9  M.  S.  VV.  of  Baccaro  Point. 

It  i«  supposed  that  Cape  Sable  and  the  adjacent  shores  were  the  ancient  lands  of 
the  Norse  discoverer.-,  "  Hat,  and  covered  with  wood,  and  where  whit';  sands  were 
far  around  where  they  we  t,  and  tho  shore  was  low.'  If  the  year  '.t'.'-i  this  point  was 
visited  by  \'n-\f.  the  .s(m  of  Eric  the  Red,  of  Urattahlid,  in  (Jrcenland  He  anchored 
his  , ship  otT  shore  and  landed  in  a  boat;  and  when  bc^  returneil  on  bo  ml  he  .s.iil: 
"This  land  shall  be  named  after  its  qualifies,  and  called  M.\uKi,t.M>  "' (woodland). 
Thence  lu;  sailed  southward,  and  di-'covered  Vinland  tln;  >/..;  I,  on  tlie  S.  shores  of 
Massachusetts  and  Rhode  Island,  where  for  many  year-'  ■!•  ■  oold  Norsemen  main- 
tained colonies.  In  the  year  1007  .Markland  was  again  vi.sked  by  Thortinn  Karlsefno, 
who,  with  1*)0  men,  was  sailing  south  to  Vinland.  These  events  are  narrateil  in  the 
ancient  Icelandic  epics  of  the  S'lgaof  Eric  the  Red  and  the  Sagaof  Thorflnn  Karlsefne. 

In  i;317  a  ship  arrived  at  Iceland  from  the  8ho,\;s  of  >tarkland,  which  is  de- 
scribed by  the  Annales  .'^kalholtini  and  the  Codex  Flateyensis  as  having  been 
smaller  than  any  Icelandic  coasting-ves.sel.  lu  such  tiny  craft  did  the  fearless 
Norsemen  visit  these  iron-bound  shores. 

In  tho  autumn  of  1750  there  was  a  sharp  naval  action  off  the  cape  between 
II.  M.  H.  Albniiy  and  the  French  war-vesxel  St  Francis.  The  engagement  lasted 
four  hour.s,  and  ended  in  the  surrender  of  the  St.  Francis,  whose  convoy,  however, 
escaped  and  reached  its  destination. 

In  .Inly,  1K12,  the  Salem  privateer  Po'h/  wa.s  cruising  off  Cape  Sable,  when  she 
sighted  two  strange  sail,  and  bore  down  on  them,  supposing  them  to  be  merchant- 
men ;  but  one  wiui  a  British  sloop-of-war,  which  opened  a  hot  fire  upon  the  incau- 
tious hi/li/,  and  a  sharp  chase  ensued.  A  calm  comuienced,  during  which  the  frig- 
ate's boats  and  launch  attacked  the  privateer,  but  were  repulsed  by  heavy  dis- 
charges of  musketry  and  langrage.  The  Polli/  made  her  escape,  and  during  the 
chase  (iiKi  notion  tiie  convoy  of  the  frig  ite  had  been  captured  by  the  privateer  Mad' 
isnn,  and  was  sent  into  Sileni. 

In  ►he  .same  vicinity  (Aug.  1,1812)  the  Rhode-Tshnd  privateer  Yankee,  captured 
the  British  ship  Royal  Bjunty,  10  guns,  after  a  battle  of  one  hour's  duration-    The 


,V'.' 


'•'.'  f   ■■  1 


124        Routers. 


BARRINGTON. 


Ml 


:    li 


priralteer's  broadsirles  were  dplivpred  with  great  precision,  and  150  of  her  shot  struck 
thie  enemy,  while  the  fire  of  the  Royal  Bnitiiti/,  though  rapid  and  licavy,  v.aa  ncuily 
ineflfective.  The  shattered  Briton  became  unmanageable,  and  while  in  that  condi- 
tion was  raked  from  stem  to  stern  by  the  Yankfe's  batteries. 

Cape  Sable  has  long  been  dreaded  by  seamen ,  and  lias  caught  up  and  destroyed 
many  vessels.  It  is  one  of  the  most  dangerous  prongs  of  that  irou-bound  Provlnco 
for  which  Kdniund  Burke  could  find  no  better  words  than  "  that  hard-visan;cd  ill 
favored  brat  "  Probably  the  moat  destructive  wwck  on  this  shore  was  that  of'th( 
ocean  steamsliip  Hutif^arian. 


the 


The  steamer  runs  N.  W.  up  the  Barrinyton  Passage  to  Barrington  {Bar- 
riiKjton  House;  Willow  Grove;  Rock  Cottaf/e  ;  Island  Lod ye  —  each  $5-7 
a  week),  a  thrivinpj  maritime  village,  43  M.  from  Yarmouth,  whence  it  U 
readied  by  steamboats  tlirice  weekly,  connecting  with  tlie  Boston  boats,  or 
by  daily  stage.  (Boston  to  Barrington,  $6  by  steamer,  or  $7  by  steamer 
and  stage.)  Ten  to  tv/elve  miles  north  are  the  Sabimm  and  Great 
Pubnico  Lakes.  Barrington  was  settled  at  an  early  date  by  the  French, 
but  they  were  crowded  off  in  1763  by  the  arrival  of  160  families  from  Capo 
Cod,  who  brought  hither  their  household  effects  on  their  own  vessels. 
After  tlie  Revolution,  a  colony  of  Loyalists  from  Nantucket  settled  hero 
with  their  whilom  neighbors. 

The  course  is  now  to  the  S.  W.,  through  a  narrow  and  tide-swept  pas- 
sage between  Clement  Point  and  N.  E.  Point,  and  thence  out  through  tho 
Barrington  West  Passage,  passing  the  Baptist  church  near  Clarke's  Har- 
bor, and  emei-ging  on  the  open  sea  between  Bear  Point  and  Newell  Head. 
(It  is  to  be  noted  that,  under  certain  adverse  conditions  of  wind  and  tide, 
the  steamer  does  not  call  at  Barrington.  but  rounds  Cape  Sable  on  tho 
outside.)  On  the  1.  is  Green  Island^  hiding  Cape  Sable,  and  the  inlet  of 
Shag  Harbor  is  seen  on  the  r.  On  Bon  Portnge  Island  (whose  original 
French  name  was  Bon  Pofarje)  is  a  new  lighthouse,  to  warn  vessels  from 
the  rugged  shores  on  which  the  Viceroy  was  wrecked.  The  course  soon 
changes  toward  the  N.  W.,  and  Seal  Island,  "  the  elbow  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy,"  is  seen  on  the  1.,  far  out  at  sea,  with  the  tower  of  its  lighthouse 
(fixed  white  light,  visible  18  M.,  and  fog-whistle)  looming  above  its  low 
shores  On  this  island  the  ocean-steamship  Columbia  was  lost.  The 
Blonde  Rock  is  3i  M.  S.  by  W.  from  the  lighthouse,  and  marks  the  point 
where  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Blonde  went  to  pieces,  in  1782.  Her  crew  was  res- 
cued from  the  island  and  was  given  liberty  by  the  American  privateers 
Lively  and  Scammell,  which  were  prowling  about  Cape  Sable  at  the  time 
of  the  wreck. 

When  the  Seal  Island  lighthouse  is  just  abeam,  on  the  other  side  is  seen 
Cockerwhit  and  the  Mutton  Islands;  N.  of  Seal  Island  the  Noddy,  ^lud, 
and  Round  Islands  are  seen,  lying  well  out  at  sea.  The  early  French 
maps  (Chaubert's)  gave  these  lonely  islands  the  significant  name  of  Les 
Isles  aux  Loups  Marina. 

From  Cape  Sable  "  one  goes  to  the  Isle  aux  Cormorants^  a  league  distant,  so  called 
on  account  of  the  infinite  number  there  of  those  birds,  with  whose  eggs  we  filled  a 


TUSKET  ISLANDS. 


Rmte25.        125 


cask  ;  and  from  this  bay  making  W.  about  6  leagues,  crossing  a  bay  which  runs  In 
2-3  leagues  to  tlie  N.,  we  meet  several  islands,  2-3  leagues  out  to  sea,  which  may 
contain,  some  2,  others  3  lengues,  and  otliers  less,  aooordiug  to  my  judgment.  They 
are  mostly  very  dangerous  for  vessels  to  come  close  to,  on  account  of  the  grea'-  tides 
and  rocks  level  with  the  water.  Tlie-e  isl  inds  are  filled  with  pine-trees,  firs,  birches, 
and  aspens.  A  little  furtlier  on  are  4  others.  In  one  there  is  so  great  a  quantity  of 
birds  called  tanait'itx  that  they  may  be  easily  knocked  down  with  a  stick.  In 
another  there  are  seals.  In  two  others  there  is  such  an  abundance  of  birds  of  dif- 
ferent kinds  that,  without  having  seen  them,  could  not  be  imagitied,  such  as  cor- 
morants, ducks  of  three  kinds,  geese,  marmettes,  bustards,  perro'jUPls  <ic  rner,  snipe.?, 
vultures,  and  other  birds  of  prey,  maniies,  sea-larks  of  two  or  three  kinds,  herons, 
gnil/fints,  curlews,  sea-gulls,  divers,  kites,  appoils,  crows,  cranes,  and  other  sorts, 
which  make  their  nests  here."   (Ch.\mpl\in  ) 

"  Here  are  many  islands  extending  into  the  s.;a,  4  -  5  M.  distant  from  the  main- 
land, and  many  rocks  with  breaking  seas,  ^ome  of  these  islands,  on  account  of  the 
multitude  of  birds,  are  called  hies  aux  Tangueux  ;  others  are  called  Isles  aux  Loups 
Marins  (Seal  Islands)  "    (Nevus  Orbis.) 

N.  of  St.  John's  Island  (on  the  r.)  is  seen  the  deep  inlet  of  Piibnico  Har- 
bor, on  whose  shores  is  the  great  fishing-village  of  Pubnico  ( Carland's 
Hold),  with  2,500  inhabitants,  of  whom  1.3ti  fatnilies  are  Acadian-French, 
the  greater  portion  belonging  to  the  families  of  Amiro  and  D'P^ntremont. 
There  are  valuable  eel-fisheries  off  this  coast,  and  the  Acadians  own  66 
schooners  in  the  Ranks  fisheries.  5  M.  N.  is  Arqyle,  a  settlement  of  800 
inhabitants,  near  the  island-strewn  Abnptic  Harbor. 

The  steamer  now  crosses  the  mouth  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  estuary  of 
the  Tusket  River  (see  page  116),  and  enters  the  archipelago  of  the  *Tii8ket 
Islands.  In  favorable  conditions  of  wind  and  tide  she  traverses  the  Ellen- 
wood  Passage^  passing  the  Bald  Tuskets,  Ellenwood,  Allen,  and  Murder 
Islanils,  and  a  multitude  of  others.  The  Islands  are  of  great  variety  of  size 
and  shape,  and  are  usually  thickly  covered  with  low  and  stui'dy  trees; 
and  the  channels  between  them  ai"e  narrow  and  very  deep.  The  frequent 
kaleidoscopic  changes  in  the  views  on  either  side,  and  the  fascinating 
commingling  and  conti'ast  of  forest,  rock,  and  water,  recall  the  scenery  of 
the  Thousand  Islands  or  the  Narrows  of  Lake  George,  But  the  Tuskets 
are  not  even  embayed;  they  stand  off  one  of  the  sharpest  angles  of  the 
continent,  and  the  deep  lanes  between  them  are  traversed  by  the  strongest 
tides  of  the  ocean. 

Soon  after  passing  the  last  Tusket  the  steamer  runs  in  near  the  white 
village  on  Jebogue  Point,  and  enters  Yarmouth  Sound.  On  the  I.  is  Cnpe 
Fourcku,  with  its  fog-whistle  and  a  lofty  revolving  light  which  is  visible 
for  18  M.  The  narrow  channel  is  iscended,  with  a  plain  of  mud  on  either 
side,  if  the  tide  is  out;  and  the  vessel  reaches  the  end  of  her  journey  at  the 
wharves  of  Yarmouth. 

Yarmouth,  see  page  114. 


•5f' 


>  L  a 


1^.   ; 


•I 


i  I  13 


f  ui 


126        Routers,      ST.    MARGAKET'S  BAY. 


li   1    .! 


IH 


';    t 


26.   Halifax  to  Yarmouth,  by  the  Shore  Route.  —  Chester 

The  easiest  rniit«  to  the  chief  ports  on  tliis  roast  is  by  the  steamship  line  (see 
Route  25);  and  the  new  Westem-iOunties  Railway.  fioniYarniouth  to  Annapolis, 
will,  when  completed,  furnish  a  still  more  exjieilitiDus  line  of  travel.  Rut  n;any 
j>oints  on  the  Atlantic  front  of  the  Province  are,  and  will  be,  accessible  only  by 
Ptj>ge8.  This  mode  of  travel  is  fully  as  arduous  here  as  in  otherremote  districts,"  and 
the  acconiniodatiuns  for  wayfarers  are  indifferent. 

DiHtaiices.  —  Htlifiix  to  »t  Miiri?irefs  Hav,21  M  :  Tlubbjird's  Cove  (McLean's), 
3'-':  ('hester,  45  ;  >fahone  Hav,  f)5  (branch  to  Lunenburf^  in  7  M.K  Hridfjewater,  74; 
Mill  Villairc.  92;  l.iverpnol.  1(»2 :  Port  Mouton,  112  :  l'r)rt  .b.li.  IIG  :  i^able  Kiver, 
127  :Lockeport,  lU  ;  Jordan  River,  ILS;  Sliclbnrne,  141,  Rarrinjiton,  l(i4  :  Pnb- 
nico,  1/5;  Tu'Jket,  I'll;  Yannoutli,  211.  Her  Majesty's  mail-stages  leave  Halifax 
daily,  at  6.30  A.M.  R('turnin<^,  leave  Hiidttewater  at  5  .\.  M.  daily  Leave  Pridce- 
water  for  Liverpool.  Lrclvei>ort  and  Shelburne,  daily,  at  8  p  h.  Slielbunie  lor 
Rriilj^ewater,  at  noon.  Stage-i  from  Liverpool  to  Milton  ami  Port  Medway  ;  from 
IMahone  Ray  to  Liinenbnrj? ;  from  heail  of  St  Mar^raret's  Ra>  to  French  Vil'af^e, 
Glen  M  l'pan>^  and  Peu't^v's  Cove  Staphs  leave  Yarmouth  for  Shellmrne,  etc.,  on 
arrival  ot  evening  tniin  from  Di;rbv. 

F  ire.«i.  —  IT  difax  to  Chest(>r,  .«2  50  ;  Mahone  Bay,  .¥^50  (Lunenburp,  i|P4); 
Bri.l^ewater,  S4;  Liverpool,  *G;  Shelburne,  IffS.SO  ;  Rarrington,  .*1U;  Yarmouth, 
w  12. 

The  stapje  rattles  up  the  hil]y  street.s  nf  Halifax  at  early  mornintr,  and 
traverses  the  wide  coininoiis  N.  of  the  Citadel,  with  formal  lines  of  trees 
on  either  side.  Beyond  the  ensninji;  line  o^  .«ubnrban  villas  it  descends  to 
the  level  of  the  Northwest  Arm  (see  pnpe  100),  along  whose  head  it  passes. 
The  road  then  leads  along  the  shores  of  the  lakes  whence  HaliTax  draws 
its  water-supply,  and  enters  a  dreary  and  thinly  settled  region.  Danphi- 
ney's  Cove  is  at  the  head  of  *  St.  Margaret's  Bay,  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful bays  on  all  this  remarkable  const.  It  is  12  ^I.  long  by  6  M.  vido,  and 
is  entered  by  a  passage  2  M.  wide;  and  is  sujjposed  to  have  been  named 
(Bait  de  Ste.  Marguerite)  by  Champlain,  who  visited  it  in  !May,  1G03. 
There  are  several  small  maritime  villages  on  itsshores,  and  the  dark  blue 
waters,  bounded  by  rugged  hills,  are  deep  enough  for  the  passage  of  large 
ships.  The  stage  runs  S.  W.  along  the  shore  for  11  M.,  sometimes  rolling 
alongside  of  beaches  of  dazzling  white  sand,  then  by  shingly  and  stony 
strands  on  which  the  embayed  surf  breaks  lightly,  and  then  by  the  huts 
of  fishermen's  hamlets,  with  their  b'  its,  nets,  and  kettles  by  the  road- 
side. Hubbard's  Govt  has  a  small  an,  where  passengers  get  their  midday 
meals. 

There  ^vas  an  ancient  water-route  from  this  point  to  the  Rasin  of  Minas.  2  M. 
from  the  Cove  is  Dnripliiney' s  Lakr ,  which  is  4  M.  long,  whence  a  carry  of  li  M.  leads 
into  the  Ponhnok  Lake,  a  river  like  expanse  8  M.  long,  atul  nowhere  so  much  as  1 
M  wide.  A  short  outlet  leads  to  the  Rlind  Lake,  which  winds  for  7  M.  throiigh  the 
forests  W".  of  the  Ardoise  Mt.,  and  is  drained  by  the  St.  Croix  Kiver,  emptying  into 
the  Avon  at  Windsor. 

7  M.  S.  W.  of  Hubbard's  Cove  the  stage  crosses  the  Ea&t  River,  "a 
glorious  runway  for  salmon,  with  splendid  falls  and  cold  brooks  tumbling 
into  it  at  intervals,  at  tlie  mouth  of  which  large  trout  can  be  cauglit  two 
at  a  time,  if  the  angler  be  skilful  enough  to  land  them  when  hooked." 
Frequent  and  beautiful  vi^'ws  of  Mahone  Ray  are  now  gained  (on  the  1.), 
as  the  stage  sweeps  around  its  head  and  descends  to 


CHESTER. 


Route  2C.     127 


,  and 
lined 
1G03. 
blue 
large 
nulling 
stony 
hut3 
rnad- 
idday 


2  M. 

[.  leada 
h  as  1 
gh  the 
ig  into 


iihling 


ked." 
hel.), 


Chester  (Lorett  House;  MnJfjmve;  daily  staGce  to  Halifax,  and  senii- 
tvfcldy  ^tcanicr),  (iiU'Iy  situated  on  a  hill  overlooking  ^lalione  Bay,  lias 
nOO  inlial)itauts,  five  churches,  and  very  pleasant  summer  society.  It  Avas 
eettled  about  the  year  1760  bv  144  Xew-Englanders,  who  brought  an  outfit 
of  cattle  and  farming-tools.  In  1784  they  were  joined  by  w  large  nu)nl»er 
of  Loyalist  refugees,  but  these  were  from  the  American  cities,  and  soon 
wearied  of  farming  and  returned  out  of  exile.  In  the  woods  near  the  vil- 
lage is  a  thermal  spring  8  ft.  around,  wdience  a  soft  alkaline  water  is  dis- 
chiirged;  and  on  the  shores  of  Sabbatee  Lake  are  found  deposits  of  kaolin, 
or  white  pipe-clay. 

Mr  llallock  is  an  enthusiastic  admirpr  of  this  town,  and  says  :  "  Three  pleasant 
seasons  have  I  spent  at  Chester.  I  idolize  its  very  nunio.  Just  below  my  wuiduw  a 
lawn  slopes  down  to  a  little  bay  with  a  jetty,  wlieru  an  ocoasioual  schooner  lauds 
^ollle  stores.  There  is  a  larj^e  tree,  under  which  I  have  pla(  ei  some  seat-i ;  and  off 
the  end  of  the  pier  the  ladies  can  catch  flounders,  tonicods,  and  cunners,  in  any 
quantity.  There  are  beautiful  drives  in  the  vicinity,  and  innumerable  islands  iu 
the  bay,  where  one  can  bathe  and  picnic  to  hearfs-content.  There  are  saihng-boats 
for  lobster-spearing  and  deep-sea  tishing,  and  row-boats  too.  From  the  top  of  a 
neighboring  hill  is  a  wonderful  panorama  of  forest,  stream,  and  cultivated  shore,  of 
baAs  and  distant  sea,  filled  with  islands  of  every  size  and  shape.  And  if  one  will  go 
t'l  (Jold  River  he  may  perchance  see,  as  I  have  done,  caribou  (juietly  feeding  on  tne 
Jiatural  meadows  along  the  upper  stream.  Beyond  Beech  Hill  is  a  trackl(  ss  forest, 
tilled  with  moose,  witli  which  two  old  hunters  living  near  oft  hold  Ituniliar  inter- 
course."    (^Tlie  Fishing  Tourist.) 

One  of  the  pleasantest  excu.sions  in  this  district  is  to  Deep  Cove  and 
Blandford,  14  I\I.  from  Chester,  by  a  road  which  follows  the  shores  of 
Mahone  Bay.  From  Blandford  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Aspotogon  is  easily  ac- 
complished, and  rewards  the  visitor  l)y  a  superb  marine*  view,  including 
the  great  archipelago  of  Mahone  Bay,  the  deep,  calm  waters  of  St.  Mar- 
garet's Bay  on  the  E.,  the  broken  and  picturesque  shores  towards  Cape 
Sambro,  and  a  wide  sweep  of  the  blue  Atlantic.  Visitors  at  Chester  also 
drive  down  the  Lunenburg  and  Lahave  road,  which  affords  pretty  sea- 
views. 

A  rugged  road  leada  across  the  Province  to  Windsor,  about  40  M.  N.,  passing 
through  an  almost  mibroken  wilderness  of  hills,  and  following  t!ie  course  of  the 
Avon  Lakes  and  River.  Semi  weekly  stages  run  from  Cliester  to  Keutville  (.see 
page'JOj. 

*  Mahone  Bay  opens  to  the  S  ,  E.  and  W.  from  Chester,  and  may  be 
explored  by  boats  or  yachts  from  that  village.  It  is  studded  with  beau- 
tiful islands,  popularly  supposed  to  be  365  in  number,  the  largest  of  which 
are  occupied  by  cosey  little  farms,  while  the  smaller  ones  are  covered  with 
liits  of  forest.  The  mainland  shores  are  nearly  all  occupied  by  prosperous 
farms,  which  are  under  the  ctire  of  the  laborious  Germans  of  the  county. 
The  fogs  prevail  in  these  waters  to  a  far  less  extent  than  on  the  outer 
deep,  and  it  i.s  not  infrequently  that  vessels  round  the  point  in  a  dense 
v.'liite  uiist  and  enter  the  sunshine  on  the  Bay.  Boats  ai,d  boatmen  may 
be  obtained  at  the  villages  along  the  shore,  and  pleasant  excursions  may 
be  made  among  the  island.s,  in  pursuit  of  fish.    "The  unrivalled  beauty 


^M 


m 


■  fi 


i^iVi 


•■'■'4, 


Is-  ^^ 


128        Route  26. 


MAHONE   BAY. 


r 


of  Miihone  Bay"  Iims  been  tlie  theme  of  prnise  from  all  who  have  visited 
this  district.  In  June,  1813,  the  line-of-battie-phip  Jm  Hoijne  and  tlie 
frijjiite  Orpheua  chiisod  the  American  privateer  Vounr/  Tt((zev  in  among 
these  islands.  'I'hongli  completely  overpowered,  the  Yankee  vessel  re- 
fused to  surrender,  and  she  was  blown  up  by  one  of  lier  officers.  TLe 
whole  crew,  94  in  number,  was  destroyed  in  this  catastrophe. 

Osik  Islaiifl  is  cclcbratod  ns  one  of  the  plaros  whore  it  is  nllepocl  that  Capt. 
Kidd's  trwisurt'  is  hidden.  Ahoiit  80  .M'urs  iit;o  .S  Nfw-Ei.plaiukrs  ( laiimd  to  have 
found  hero  cvidcnres  of  a  buried  ni.vstory,  coiui  idiuj:  with  a  tradition  to  the  f^aiiie 
t'lfeet.  DijA^ing  down,  they  passed  regular  layers  of  tiag-stones  and  cut  logs,  and 
their  successors  penetnited  the  earth  over  1(I0  ft.  farther,  finding  layers  cf  timber, 
charcoal,  i)utty,  West-ludiau  grass,  sawed  planks,  and  other  curious  suV»st<inces, 
together  with  a  cjuaintly  carved  stone.  The;  pit  became  flooded  witli  water,  and  was 
pumped  out  steadily.  Halifax  .and  Truro  merchants  invested  in  the  enterprise,  and 
great  stone  drains  were  discovered  leading  from  the  .'ca  into  the  pit.  After  much 
money  and  labor  was  spent  in  the  excavation,  it  w.s  given  up  about  10  yeai>  ago, 
and  tiie  olyect  of  the  great  drains  and  concealed  pit  still  remains  a  profound  mas- 
tery. 

Jiig  Tiinrnoh  is  the  chief  of  the  islands  in  this  bay,  and  is  about  2  M.  long-  It 
contains  500  inhabitants,  who  are  engaged  in  farming  and  fishing.  Retwei'U  this 
point  and;Mt.  Aspotogon  is  Little  Tancnok  Island,  with  00  inhabitants.  These 
islands  were  devastated,  in  1~'){\,  by  the  Indi;ins,  who  killed  several  of  the  settlers. 

•'  This  bay,  the  scenery  of  which,  for  picturesque  grandeur,  is  not  surpassed  by 
any  landscape  in  An)eri''">,  is  about  10  IM  broad  and  12  deep,  and  contains  within  it 
a  multitude  of  beautiful  wooded  islands,  which  were  probably  never  counted,  but 
are  said  to  exceed  200." 


•Vf 


r  I 


Soon  after  the  Yarmonth  stage  leaves  Chester  "  we  come  to  Chester 
Basin,  island-gemmed  and  indented  with  many  a  little  cove;  and  far  out 
to  f-ea,  looming  up  in  solitary  grandeur,  is  Aspotogon,  a  mountain  head- 
land said  to  be  the  highest  land  in  Nova  Scotia  (  V  ).  The  road  follows  the 
siiorc  for  many  a  mile,  and  then  turns  abruptly  up  the  beautiful  valley  of 
Gold  Riv^r,  the  finest  of  all  the  salmon  streams  of  this  grand  locality.  In 
it  there  are  eleven  glorious  pools,  all  within  2  M.  of  each  other,  and  others 
foi*  several  miles  above  at  longer  intervals." 

]\[ahv^^e  Bay  (Victoria  Hotel)  i*-  a  village  of  800  inhabitants,  situated  on 
a  prett\  cove  about  17  Jf  from  Chester.  It  luis  4  churches,  and  its  inhab- 
itants are  mostly  engagt'd  in  fishing  and  the  lumber-trade.  In  the  vicinity 
ore  several  other  populou:->  German  settlements,  and  7  M.  S.  is  Lunenburg 
isee  page  118).  This  point  was  known  to  the  Indians  by  the  name  of 
Mnshnmush.  and  was  fortified  by  the  British  in  1754. 

The  stage  now  traverses  a  dreary  inland  region,  inhabited  Iw  Germans, 
and  soon  reaches  Bridgewater  (Eurekn  HuUl),  a  village  on  the  Lahave 
IJiver,  13  M.  from  the  sea.  It  has  1,000  inhabitants  and  4  churclies,  and 
is  largely  engaged  in  the  lumber-trade,  exporting  staves  to  the  United 
States  and  the  West  Indies.  The  scenery  of  the  Lahave  River  is  at- 
tractive and  pictiu'esque,   but  the  saw-mills  on  its  upper  waters  have 


proved  fatal  to  the  fit-h  (sec  page  110). 


The  road  now  traverses  n  disuiai 


\    ii 


region  for  18  M.,  when  it  reatdies  J////  ViUnrjc  (small  hotel),  on  the  Port 
Medway  River.     This  place  has  several  lai'ge  saw-mills  and  a  match- 


LIVERPOOL  LAKES. 


Route  27. 


129 


factory,  and  its  population  numbers  about  400.  It  is  near  the  Doran  and 
Herringcove  Lakes,  and  is  6  M.  from  tlie  Tliird  Falls  of  the  Laliave.  9  M. 
S.  VV.  is  Live>"po(jl  (see  page  120). 

From  Liverpool  to  Yarmouth  the  road  runs  along  the  heads  of  the  bays 
and  across  the  intervening  strips  of  land.  Tlie  chief  stntions  and  their 
distances  are  given  in  the  itinerary  on  page  126;  the  descriptions  of  the 
towns  may  le  found  in  Koute  25. 

27.  The  Liverpool  Lakes. 

This  system  of  inland  waters  is  most  easily  re:  ched  from  Halifax  or  St.  John 
by  passing  to  Annapolis  lloyul  and  there  taking  the  stage  which  leaves  at  6  a.  m. 
daily. 

liislanres.  — Annapolis;  Milford,14  M.  ;  Maitland,27:  Northfield . 30  ;  Kempt, 
3.");  Brookfield,  41;  Caledonia  Corner;  Greenfield  (I'onhook),  50;  Middlefield,  60; 
Liverpool,  70. 

Soon  after  leaving  Annaralis  the  stage  enters  the  valley  of  Allen's  River, 
■which  is  followed  toward  the  long  low  range  of  the  South  Mt.  At  Milford 
(small  inn)  the  upper  reservoirs  of  the  Liverpool  River  are  met,  and  from 
this  point  it  is  possible  to  descend  in  canoes  or  flat-bottomed  boats  to  the 
town  of  Liverpool,  60  M.  distant.  If  a  competent  guide  can  be  secured 
at  Milford  this  trip  can  be  made  with  safety,  and  will  open  up  rare  fishing- 
grounds.  The  lakes  are  nearly  all  bordered  by  low  and  rocky  shores,  with 
hill-ranges  in  the  distance;  and  flow  through  regions  which  are  as  yet  but 
little  vexed  by  the  works  of  man.  The  trout  in  these  waters  are  abundant 
and  not  too  coy;  though  better  flshmg  is  found  in  proportion  to  the  dis- 
tance to  which  the  southern  forest  is  entered.  Mr.  McClelland  has  been 
the  best  guide  from  Milford,  but  it  is  uncertain  whether  he  will  be  avail- 
able this  summer. 

Queen's  and  Lunenburg  Counties  form  "the  lake  region  of  Nova  Scotia. 
All  that  it  lacks  is  the  grand  old  mountains  to  make  it  physically  as  at- 
tractive as  the  Adirondacks,  while  as  for  game  and  fish  it  is  m  every  way 
infinitely  superior.  Its  rivers  are  short,  but  they  flow  wiili  full  volume 
to  the  sea,  and  yield  abundantly  of  salmon,  trout,  and  sea-trout.  Its  lakes 
swarm  with  trout,  and  into  many  of  the«n  the  salmon  ascend  to  spawn, 
and  are  dipped  and  speared  by  the  Indians  in  large  numbers."  (Hal- 
lock.) 

"  In  the  hollows  of  the  highlands  are  likewise  embosomn-  lakes  of  every  variet, 
of  form,  and  often  quite  isolated.  Deep  and  intensely  blue,  their  shores  fringeu 
with  rock  bowlders,  and  generally  containing  several  islands,  they  do  ninch  to  di- 
versify th^  i.-onotony  of  the  forest  by  their  frequency  and  picturesque  scenery." 

(CaPT.  ii..\RDY.) 

The  laverpool  road  is  rugged,  and  leads  through  a  region  of  almost  un- 
broken forests.  Bej'ond  Milford  it  runs  S.  E.  down  the  valleys  of  the 
Boot  Lake  and  Fishers  Lake,  with  dark  forests  and  ragged  clearings  on 
either  side.  Maitland  is  a  settlement  of  about  400  inhabitants,  and  a  few 
miles  beyond  is  Northfield,  whence  a  forest-road  leads  S.  W.  6  M.  to  the 
6*  I 


•«  -'^M 


■■M 


1,'.' 

m 


I," 


\ ' 


i)  a 


i-m^i0^^ 


1 30      Poute  27. 


LIVERPOOL  LAKES. 


shore  of  Fairy  J.'i.'.'c  vy  (he  Frozen  Ocean,  a  beautiful  islnnd-strewn  sheet 
of  water  4  M.  lojg.     .».  ]NL  Monro,  of  Maitland,  is  a  fjood  puide. 

The  road  now  entcs  Brook/iiU,  the  centre  of  the  new  farming  «rttie- 
ments  of  the  N(»rth  Distrit-t  of  Queen';:.  County.  Several  roads  -iivorji'e 
hence,  and  in  the  vicinity  the  lakes  and  tributaries  of  the  LiveriHio!  ar;l 
Port  Medv;ay  River;- are  curiour-Iv  inteilaced.  5-G  ^I.  S.  V.  is  tlie  Mnhiya 
Lake,  which  is  6  M.  long  and  has  severai  pretty  islands.  'J  tie  vow,  passes 
on  to  Ore  en  fit:  Id,  a  busy  luiniiering-villa;2;e  at  the  outlet  of  i'ort  Mr  ^nay 


Great  Lak' 
other  roav' 
(small  innj 
through  tl*' 


This  long-drawn-out  sheet  of  water 


uso  skii 


hv  the 


v;hich  runs    S.   from    Brookfi;'!  !    throu,j,r:i    Caledonia  Cower 

The  Ponhook  Road  is  S.  \V  of  Greenfield  j!;;d  run-:  down 

forest  to  the  outlet  of  Ponhook  like,  '  tuM  headquarters  of 

the  Micrnucs  ;'i;d  of  a'l  tbo  sidinoi!  of  the  Liverpool  River  "     This  Indian 

village  is  ti'-;;  plire  to  i^<   t'uides  vrho  are  tireless  and  are  fanfiliar  wuh 

every  rod  of  the  l:ike-d -irict      Frtim  t!:.'.  point  a  canoe  voyage  of  about 

I   ,1  8  M.  across  the  Ponhook  Luke-  learls  the  voyager  into  the  greiit  *  Lake 

RosfiignoL  wl/ieh  i-  12  ?.L  Uj  .i.;  by  8  aL  v.idc,  and  affords  one  of  the  most 

picturesque  sight.-,  in  Novsi  Kcoua, 

"  A  glorious  vicv7  \.n^  unfolded  as  ■we  left  thTim  and  entered  the  still  water  of 
the  lak( .  Tlic  bicozc  toll  iaiiid!>  with  the  sun  Jind  euiibled  us  to  sfeor  d. winds  the 
'  entrc,  from  nhu  h  tdotie  the  size  of  the  lake  could  be  appreciated,  ouintr  to  the 
lauiiber  of  the  isiunl.  These  were  of  every  iuiagiiuible  shajie  and  si/e,  —  \\>m\  the 
gri//ly  rui  k  bearing  a  r.ilUary  stunted  pine,  *<haggy  witli    Usnea,  to  those  of  ;i  mile 

in  !  !!;rth,  thii  kly  wood  ■ '  \\\i\\  maple,  beeeh,and  birches Here  and  ttierc  a 

brigliC  -  pot  of  white  shikI  formed  a  beach  temptiiig  for  a  disembarkation  ;  and  fre- 
quent '-vlrau  scenes  of  an  almost  fairy-land  character  opened  up  as  \V(>coastc  1  along 
the  shores,  —  iirt'e  harbors  almost  closed  in  from  the  lake,  overgrown  with  water- 
lilies,  arro'-lipads,  and  other  aquatic  plaots,  with  mossy  banks  backed  by  bosky 
groves  of  l)(.i..ocks.''     (Capt.  ILvudy.) 

At  the  foot  of  Lake  Ros^ignol  is  a  wide  oak-opening,  with  a  fine  greensMard  under 
groves  of  white  o:iks  Near  this  poi.it  ttie  Live  -pool  River  flows  out,  passing  .«cveral 
islvjts,  and  alTofding  pood  trout-fisliing.  In  and  about  this  oak-(jpening  was  the 
oliief  vUlage  of  che  ancient  Micniac«  of  this  region  ;  and  here  are  their  nearly  oblit- 
erited  inu'ving-gvounds.  Tl.o  site  is  now  n,  favorite  resort  for  hunting  and  fishing 
parlies.  The  name  Povhonk  means  "  the  first  lake  in  a  chain  "  ;  and  these  shores 
are  one  of  the  few  districts!  of  the  vast  domains  of  Miii^inndh^lne,  or  "  Micmac 
L^nd,''  that  remain  in  the  possession  of  the  aborigines  From  I'ouh&ok  12  lakes 
may  be  ent-ir'.d  by  canoes  without  milking  a  single  portage. 

From  Lake  Rossignol  the  sportsman  may  visit  the  long  chain  of  the 
Se(/um  S"ga  Lakes,  enlered  from  a  stream  on  the  N.  W.  shore  (several 
portages;^  and  may  thence  ascend  to  the  region  of  the  Blue  Mts.  e.d  into 
Shelburne  County.     The  Indian  Gardens  may  also  be  visited  tl      '  <?,  af- 
i   |f|  fording  many  attractions  for  riflemen.     Tlie  Micmacs  of  Ponhof .  the 

best  guides  to  the  remoter  pa: ;     ^f  the  forest.     There  ar.      .ve 
men  in  the  town  of  Liverpool  w    •  .  ave  traversed  these  pie'.     ..     ■ 
and  they  will  aid  fellow-sportsmen  loyally.     The  Indian  vii'tj-D 


gentle- 
'itudes, 
is  only 


rv   v;i     llic 


about  15  M.  from  Live!  poof  by  a  road  on  the  1.  banl 

Liverpool,  see  j  uge  120.  The  landlord  of  the  Alansion  House,  1  pool, 
furnishes  Indian  guides.  The  Nova-Scotia  Central  Railway  i  <i  >  from 
Middleton  to  the  vicinity  of  the  lakes,  and  across  to  Briugewater  and  Lu- 
nenburg. 


I 


CKEZZETCOOK. 


Route  28. 


131 


28.    Halifax  to  T'mgier. 


nah^scs 


■  1  iilong 
water- 
bosky 


of  the 

several 

(l  into 

• .?.  nf- 

tlie 

3ntle- 

itudep, 

is  only 


The  Roval  mnil-stnge  leaves  Halifax  at  6  a.  y  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Fri- 
daj  (returning  tiie  uiteruaU)  days  ,  tor  tlie  vill.-^w  aloi.,  t;ie  Atlauiic  wlioie  to  tbe 
E.  Tlie  (OQveyance  is  not  good,  and  the  road  j  are  sometimes  iu  bad  couditioa,  but 
tliere  is  pretty  coa.>-t-.scenery  along  the  rou'.-:., 

lliHtances.  —  Halifax;  Dirrniouth  ;  Porter's  Lake  (Tnnis's),  Ki  M  :  Chezzet- 
nrok  Uoad  (Orinon's),  IS:  Mii'iquodoboit,  II;irl)or,  28;  Lakeville  (Webber's),  40; 
i^'hip  Harbor,  46  ;  Tangier,  60  ;  Sueet  Harbor,  80  ;  Beaver  Harbor,  90. 

After  leaving  Dartmouth,  the  stage  runs  K.  through  a  lake-strewn  coun- 
try, and  passes  near  the  gold-mines  of  Montague.  Beyond  the  Little 
Salmon  River  it  traverses  Preston,  with  the  gold-bearing  district  of 
Lawrencetown  on  the  S.  The  mines  and  placer-washings  at  this  point 
drew  large  and  enthusiastic  crowds  of  adventurers  in  1861-62,  but  they 
are  now  nearly  abandoned.  The  road  rounds  the  N.  end  of  Echo  Lake 
and  ascends  a  ridge  beyond,  after  which  it  crosses  the  long  and  river-like 
expanse  of  Porter's  Lake,  and  runs  through  the  post-village  of  the  same 
nnme.  3-4  ^L  to  the  S.  E  is  Chezzetcook  Harbor,  with  its  long  shores 
lined  with  settlements  of  the  Acadian  French,  whereof  Cozzens  writes:  — 

"  But  we  are  again  in  the  Acadian  forest ;  let  us  enjoy  the  scenery.  The  road  we 
arc  on  is  but  a  :evv  miles  from  the  sea-siiore,  but  the  ocean  is  hidden  from  view  by 
tiie  thick  woovls.  As  we  ride  along,  however,  we  skirt  the  edges  of  coves  and  inlets 
that  frequently  break  in  upon  the  landscape.  Ther*?  is  a  chain  of  fresh-water  lakes 
also  along  this  road.  Sometimes  we  cross  a  bridge  over  a  rushing  torrent ;  some- 
times a  calm  expanse  of  water,  doubling  the  evergreens  at  its  margin,  comes  into 
view  ;  anon  a  gleam  of  sapphire  strikes  through  the  verdure,  and  an  ocean-bay  with 
its  shingly  beach  curves  in  and  out  between  the  piny  slopes." 

Here  "  the  water  of  the  harbor  has  an  intensity  of  color  rarely  seen,  except  in 
the  pictures  of  the  most  ultramarine  painters.  Mere  and  there  a  green  island  or  a 
lishing-boat  rested  upon  the  surface  of  the  tranquil  blue.  l''or  miles  and  miles  the 
eye  followed  indented  grassy  slopes  that  rolled  away  on  either  side  of  the  harbor, 
and  the  most  delicate  pencil  could  scarcely  portray  theexqui*'te  line  of  creamy  sand 
that  skirted  their  edges  and  melted  otf  in  the  clear  margin  of  ti.  i  water.  Occasional 
'•'"''}  cottages  nestle  among  these  green  banks,  —  not  the  .4cadian  houses  of  the 
uy.  \,  'with  thatched  roofs   and    dormer-windows    projecting,'  but   comfortable, 

homely-looking  buildings  of  modern  shapes,  shingled  and  un-weathercocked 

The  women  of  Chezzetcook  appear  at  daylight  in  the  i  ity  of  Halifax,  and  as  soon  as 
the  sun  is  up  vanish  like  the  uow  They  have  usually  a  basket  of  fresh  eggs,  a  brace 
or  two  of  worsted  socks,  a  bottle  of  lir  balsam,  to  sell.  These  comprise  their  simple 
conuner(e  " 

Chezzetcook  was  founded  by  the  French  in  1740,  but  was  abandoned  during  the 
long  subsequent  wars.  After  the  British  conquest  and  pacification  of  Acadia,  many 
of  the  old  families  rcturnctl  io  their  former  homes,  and  Chezzetcook  was  re-occupied 
by  its  early  settlers.  They  -  Tnied  an  agricultural  community,  and  grew  rapidly 
in  prosiunicy  i^l  in  is'i-ahors.  There  are  about  250  famil!-s  now  resident  about  the 
bay,  presen'"r,.,:  the  name-  and  language  and  many  of  the  primitive  customs  of  the 
.\cadian^:  o    'he  Basin  of  Miuit...     (See  pages  108  and  113.) 

The  road  passes  near  the  head  of  "Chezzetcook  Hnrbor,  on  the  r.,  and 
then  turns  N.  E.  between  the  blue  waters  of  Chezzetcook  <^»*eai;  Lake  ( 1.) 
mid  Pepiswick  Lake  (r.).  The  deep  inlet  of  ^fusquo(lohoit  Harbor  is  soon 
rearlied,  and  ii.?  head  is  crossed.  Ihis  is  tie  harbot  where  Capt.  Hardy 
made  his  pen-picture  of  this  romantic  coast:  — 

"  Nothing  Ciu  exceed  the  beauty  of  scenery  in  some  of  the  Atlantic  harbors  of 
Nova  Scotiu         .v;h  innumerable  islands  aid  h*iv"'.y- wooded  shores  fringed  witti 


If'' 


.V." 


f 


h^'^ 


M 


132        Route  2S. 


TANGIER. 


^i  s 


the  (golden  kelp,  the  wild  undnlatinf?  hills  of  maple  rising  in  the  biickgroiind,  the 
patches  of  lucadow,  and  m-at  little  white  shantii'S  of  tl\e  fishermen's  ileariugs,  .  .  ,  , 
the  fir  woods  of  tlie  western  shores  butiicd  in  tlie  uiorniug  sunbeams,  ^he  perfect 
retiection  of  tiie  isliinds  and  of  the  little  fisliiiij^-scliooaers,  tlio  wreiths  of  blue 
smoke  risint^  from  their  cahin  stoves,  and  the  roar  of  the  distant  rajjids,  wlierc  the 
river  joins  the  harhor,  borne  in  cadence  on  the  ear,  mingled  with  the  cheerful 
Bounds  of  awakening  life  from  the  clearings." 

Near  iviusii'jodoijoit  are  soine  valuable  f'Md-iiiliies,  with  two  j)owerfuV 
quartz-crushing  nii!i«.  and  i?everal  moderately  rich  lodes  of  auriferous 
quartz.  The  stage  soon  reaches  the  W.  arm  o^  Jtddore  Harhm%  and  then 
crosses  the  Le  Ahirchant  Bridge.  The  district  of  Jeddore  has  1,623  in- 
habitants, most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  fisheries  or  the  coasting  trade, 
alternating  these  employments  with  lumbering  and  shipbuilding.  A  long 
tract  of  wilde»'nes3  is  now  traversed,  and  Ship  Harbor  is  reached.  A  few 
miles  N.  W.  is  the  broad  expanse  of  Ship  Harbor  Lake,  reaching  nearly 
to  the  Soar's  Back  Ridge,  and  having  a  length  of  12-14  ]\I.  and  a  width 
of  2-4  M.  To  the  N.  are  the  hills  whence  falls  the  Tanj^ier  River,  to 
which  the  Indians  gave  the  onomatopoetic  name  of  A/unagopakegeek, 
which  signifies  "  tumbling  over  the  rocks."  The  post-road  now  enters 
the  once  famous  gold-bearing  district  of  Tangier. 

These  mines  were  opened  in  1860,  and  soeedily  became  widely  renowned,  attract- 
ing thousands  of  adventurers  from  all  parts  of  the  Atlantic  coast.  For  miles  the 
ground  was  honeycombed  with  pits  and  shafts,  and  the  excited  men  worked  with- 
out intermission.  But  the  gold  was  not  found  in  masses,  and  only  patience  and 
hard  work  could  extract  a  limited  quantity  from  the  quartz,  so  the  crowd  became 
discontented  and  went  to  the  new  field's.  Lucrative  shore-washings  were  engaged  in 
for  some  time,  and  a  stray  nugget  of  Tangier  gold  weighing  27  ounces  was  shown  in 
the  Dublin  Exposition.  This  dis-trict  covers  about  30  scjuarc  miles,  and  has  12  lodes 
of  auriferous  quartz.  The  South  Lode  is  the  most  valuable,  and  appears  to  grow 
richer  as  it  descends.  The  mines  are  now  being  worked  by  two  small  companies, 
and  their  average  yield  is  $  400-600  per  miner  each  ^ear. 

Beyond  Tangier  and  Pope's  Bay  the  post-road  passes  the  head  of  '^pry 
Bay,  and  then  the  head  of  Mushaboon  Harbor,,  nnd  reaches  Sheet  Harbor 
(Farnal's  Hotel).  This  is  a  small  shipbuilding  lillage,  at  the  head  of  the 
long  harbor  of  the  same  name,  and  is  at  the  outlets  of  the  Middle  and 
Korth  Rivers,  famous  for  their  fine  salmon  fisheries. 

Slierbrooke,  see  page  133. 

Considerable  intt-rest  attaches  to  Sherbrooke  in  theeyesof  the  sportsman  as  being 
in  the  centre  and  headquarters  of  one  of  the  finest  angling-districts  in  An  eiica. 
The  iStillicater  of  St.  Afari/'s  Jiicer,  3  M.  from  Sherbrooke,  fiom  mid-Ma,\  to  mid- 
July,  is  the  yearly  resort  of  number « of  miUtary  and  private  gentlemen  from  IIalil;ix, 
who  indulge  in  tlie  noble  sport  of  angling  for  salmon.  Fish  weighing  38  lbs.  have 
been  frequently  taken  with  tlie  fly.  Angling  for  trout  begins  July  10,  and  con- 
tinues till  Nov.  1  W.  of  St.  Mary's  lUver,  and  witliin  8  M.,  are  the  Gegogfiin  and 
Gaspereaux  Brooks,  both  celebrated  for  their  trout ;  at  tlie  latter  stream  sea  trout 
of  6  lbs.  weight  have  been  taken.  K.  of  St.  Mary's  Iviver  are  tin;  Indian  Lake><, 
and  Indian  Ili\er,  —tlie  latter  lieing  ditfimlt  of  access,  bui  probably  the  be.st  lish- 
ing-stream  in  eastern  Nova  Scotia.     It  is  'J  M.  from  Sherbrooke. 

The  name  St.  Mary's  was  given  to  this  District  by  the  French.  At  Sherbrooke, 
•when  first  settled  by  the  English  Loyalists,  there  were  found  tbe  remains  of  a  stone 
fort,  built  to  command  the  approach  to  the  scttlcnKfut  by  the  river. 

Stages  leave  Sheet  Harbor  at  6  a.  M.,  Tuesday.  Thursday,  and  Saturday  (return- 
ing alternate  days)  for  Salmoa  Kivefr,  ^o  M. ;  Marie  Joseph,  3j  ;  Liscomb,  50 ;  and 
Sherbrooke,  61. 


GUYSBOROUGH. 


Route  39.        133 


being 

t'liia. 
o  iiiiJ- 
alit':ix, 

have 
(I  con- 
tin  and 

trout 
Lakc'x, 
tit  lish- 


29.    The  Northeast  Coast  of  Nova  Scotia. 

This  district  is  readied  by  papsini;  on  tlic  Intercolonial  Railway  (sec  Routes  16 
and  17)  houi  St.  Joun  or  llaiiiax  to  Neu'  Glasgow,  und  thunce  taking  tbe 
lluilwuy  to  Autiguuitjh  {Ami  Kuutu  32). 

From  Antigonish  a  daily  stago  departs  after  the  arrival  of  trains  go- 
ing E.,  running  38  M.  S.  (I'arc,  1-2.00)  to  Sherbrooke  {Shtibvtioke 
Iluitl;  C'altilunid  Ilotil,  —  both  with  livery -stables  —  see  also  page  13"2), 
a  village  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  St.  Mary's  River,  the  largest  river  in  Nova 
Scotia,  and  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  that  stream.  It  is  engaged  in 
shipbuilding  and  in  the  exportation  of  deals  and  lumber.  The  town  de- 
rives considerable  interest  from  the  fact  ihat  in  the  vicinity  is  one  of  the 
broadest  and  most  prolific  gold-fields  in  the  Province.  Gohhnvillt  is  3  M. 
from  Sherbrooke,  by  a  road  which  crosses  the  St.  Mary's  on  a  long  bridge. 
This  district  covers  18  square  miles,  and  is  the  richest  in  the  Province, 
having  yielded  as  high  as  $2,000  per  man  per  year,  or  about  tliree  times 
the  average  production  of  the  best  of  the  Australian  mines.  The  aurifer- 
ous lodes  are  operated  at  Goldenville  only,  where  there  are  several  quartz- 
crushers  on  a  large  scale.  Tbese  mines  were  discovered  in  1861,  and  on 
the  first  day  over  $500  worth  of  gold  was  found  here.  Systematic  mining 
operations  were  soon  commenced,  and  the  yield  of  the  precious  meta.  ]ias 
since  been  very  satisfactory. 

The  Wine-Harbor  Gold- Held  is  several  miles  S.  E.  of  Sherbrooke,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  St.  Mary's  River.  The  average  yield  per  ton  is  small,  yet  tie  breudtli  and 
continuity  of  the  lodes  renders  the  work  easy  and  certain.  This  district  is  seamed 
with  abandoned  shafts  and  tunnels,  one  of  which  is  700  ft.  long.  Tlio  first  discovery 
of  gold  was  nia'le  in  1860  in  the  sands  of  tlio  sea-shoro,  and  tlie  quartz  lodes  on  the 
N.  E.  side  of  the  harbor  wore  soon  opened  Of  Liter  years  the  Wine-IIarbor  district 
has  greatly  declined  in  popularity  and  productiveness. 

The  S'orniont  Gotd-Jields  are  3i3  M.  N.  E.  of  Sherbrooke,  and  are  most  easily 
reached  by  direct  conveyance  from  Antigonish.  Gold  was  discovered  here  by  the 
Indians  in  1861,  and  occurs  in  thick  layers  of  quartz  Owi-ig  to  its  remoteness, 
this  regiou  has  remained  undeveloped,  and  its  total  yield  in  1S'^9  was  but  227  ounces 
($4,540).  The  chief  village  in  the  district  is  at  the  head  of  Cou7> try  Harbor,  a  pic- 
turesque arm  of  the  sea,  8  M.  long  and  2-3  M.  wide.  There  are  fine  opport"  -■*""i 
for  shooting  and  fishing  among  the  adjacent  bays  and  highlands.  All  this  ■■.-■ 
was  settled  in  1783  -  4  by  Loyalists  from  North  uiid  South  Carolina. 

Guysborough  and  Cape  Canso. 

Guysborough  (Grant's  Hotel)  is  reached  by  daily  mail-stages  from 
Heatherton,  on  the  Halifax  &  Cape  Breton  Railway.  Alter  leaving  the 
valley  of  the  Sou'h  "'iver,  the  road  passes  through  a  rough  and  hilly  region, 
and  descends  t  ■  .  h  the  Intervale  Settlement  and  Manchester  to  Guvs- 
bftrough,  a  marine  village  at  the  head  of  Chedabucto  Bay.  It  has  about 
1,(00  inhabitants,  with  a  prosperous  academy,  and  is  the  capital  of  Guys- 
borough  County  (named  in  honor  of  Sir  Guy  Carleton).  It  is  engaged  in 
shipbuilding  ant  ihe  fisheries,  and  has  a  good  and  spacious  harbor.  The 
noble  anchorage  J  Milford  Haven  lies  bet  -ten  the  town  and  the  bftv. 


K 


I' 


3' 


#% 


134 


Route  no. 


SABLE   ISLAND. 


It 


A  Ptrnnj?  post  was  ostnblishod  nt  Cheflabuoto,  on  tho  «ito  of  Onysborough  In  1036, 
bv  M  Dciiys.  wlio  hud  siiutioiiM  waniioiisc-H  mid  ii  fitroiij;  tVtrt  hero,  tonctliiT  with 
120  men.  Hi'iv  h(>  rfci'ivcd  mid  mppnrtt-d  ihc  oxilcd  cliildri'ii  of  D'Aiilimy  t'liar- 
tiifiay;  and  hcn^  alwo  ho  wan  vahiiy  hp^ii'pcd  for  M'Vfnil  diivs  by  Iji  (JinMidiero  and 
loo  men  from  Canso  In  1000  t'.'^  *  ■  ;.  h  n>  hold  by  Do  Moiitornucuii,  mid  wt-re 
bravely  dcfoiidi'd  apainst  tho  atluK  ■  '  (  .  ^Ncw-Enniand  army  under  Sir  William 
l'ln|)i)s.  Finally,  win  n  tli(!  VinUliULrfi  'M  tin-  fort  were  nil  in  flnnics  almut  liim,  the 
gallanr,  yroneliman  snrrendi  rid,  and  svaH  sent  to  I'laoentia  with  Ids  s<»ldit'r8.  Tlie 
ruins  of  tho  auoiont  fort  an;  ii'iw  to  ho  traced  near  tlio  moutli  of  tho  harbor. 

A  bold  ridge  runs  31  >L  E.  from  Giiysborough  along  the  S.  shore  of  Chcd- 
abucto  Bay  to  Cape  Canso,  the  most  easterly  point  of  Nova  Scotia.  A 
road  follows  the  course  of  the  bay  to  the  ^v  b  ,,  ■  .i.uge  of  Cape  Canso, 
■which  has  over  1,000  inhabitants  and  enjoys  a  profitable  little  export 
trade.  Several  islands  lie  off  this  extreme  point  of  Nova  Scotia,  one  of 
which  bears  t.  o  [)o\vorful  white  lights  and  a  fog-whistle.  Canso  Harbor 
is  marked  bv  a  jixed  red  light  which  is  visible  for  12  ^L 

Wlillo  Haven  is  on  tho  S.  side  of  tho  proat  peninsula  of  Wilmot,  30  M.  from 
Guyshorouph,  und  is  a  small  fishing;  settlouiont  situatid  on  one  c>f  tlio  finest  bays  on 
tho  Amoriean  coast.  It  was  oripinaily  intended  to  liavo  tho  Intonolonial  Railway 
tcrminafo  heic,  and  connect  with  tho  transatlantic  stoanifiliips.  The  liarbor  is  easy 
of  access,  of  capacious  l)rendth.  and  fieo  Irom  ico  in  winter.  Its  E  point  is  W'liito 
Head,  usually  tho  first  li.rd  seen  iiy  vessels  crossing  from  Europe  in  tiiis  upi)er  lati- 
tude, on  which  is  u  fixed  white  lipht.  Just  W.  of  White  Ilaveu  is  the  fiohormen's 
hamict  of  Molasses  Harbor ,  uour  tho  broad  bight  o.  Tor  Bay. 


mi  '■ 


)vH,      i 


30.    £able  Island. 

The  Editor  inserts  the  following  slictch  of  tliis  remotest  outpost  of  tho  Maritime 
Provinces,  liopinp  that  its  quaint  character  may  make  amends  for  its  uselessness  to 
the  summer  tourist.  It  may  also  be  of  service  to  voyagers  on  tliesc  coasts  who  sliould 
chance  to  bo  cast  away  on  tho  island,  since  no  one  likes  to  bo  landed  suddeiilj  in  a 
strange  country  witliout  liaving  some  previou  i  kuowlodge  of  tlio  reception  lie  may 
get. 

A  regular  line  of  communication  has  recently  been  established  between  Sable 
Island  and  Halifax.  Tho  lioat-  run  on<  «>  a  year,  an  i  are  chartered  by  the  Canndian 
government  to  carry  provision  md  si  .ics  to  th<  iirhthou^  •  ptjoplo  and  patrols, 
and  to  bring  back  the  persons  who  may  have  been  wrecked  tnere  during  the  pre- 
vious year. 

Sable  Island  is  about  90  "^ '.  c.  E.  of  Cape  Canso.  L  is  a  barren  ex- 
panse of  sand,  without  trees  or  ihickets,  and  i-  constantly  swept  bv  storms, 
under  whose  powerful  pressure  the  whole  aspcc'  of  the  land  changes,  by 
the  shifting  of  the  low  dunes.  The  onh  prouucts  of  this  arid  shore  are 
cranberries,  immense  quantities  of  wh,       ire     innd  on  the  lowlands. 

"  Should  any  on*^  bo  visiting  tlio  island  now.  ho  nn,  it  see,  about  10  M.  distance, 
looking  seaward,  iialf  a  dozen  low  dark  liuunnocks  on  tho  liorizon.  As  ho  ap- 
proach ^hey  gradually  resolve  themselves  into  hills  fringed  by  breakers,  and  by 
and  tiy  the  white  .sea-beach  with  its  continued  surf,  —  tho  sand-hills,  part  naked, 
part  waving  in  grass  of  the  deepest  green,  luifold  th(>m.«elves,  — a  house  and  a  barn 
dot  tile  western  extremity,  —  hero  and  there  along  the;  wild  beacli  lie  tlio  ribs  of  un- 
lucl<v  traders  lialf  buried  in  tho  sliiftlng  sand Nearly  tho  first  thing  tlio  vis- 
itor does  is  to  mount  tho  flag-stalT,  !ind,  climbing  into  the  crow's-nest,  scan  the  scene. 
The  ocean  bounds  him  everywhere.  Spread  east  and  west,  he  views  trie  narrow 
island  in  form  of  a  bow,  as  if  tho  great  Atlantic  waves  had  bent  it  around,  nowhere 
much  above  1  M.  wide,  26  M.  long,  including  tho  dry  bars,  and  holding  a  shallow 
lake  13  M.  long  in  its  centre.    There  it  all  lies  spread  like  a  map  at  his  feet,  —  grassy 


1  lnir.36, 
tlicr  with 
my  C'liiir- 
diero  ftud 
iirid  were 
I-  Williiim 
hiiu,  the 
vn.  The 
r. 

c.f  Ched- 
•otia.  A 
le  CiUiRO, 
e  export 
fi,  one  of 
0  Harbor 


}0  M.  from 

■St  bavs  on 
111  llailwiiy 
h(ir  is  easy 
t  is  U'liito 
upper  lati- 
Lhcrmeu's 


0  Maritime 

lossness  to 

u)  should 

Idenlj  in  a 

m  lie  may 


ecn  Sable 
Cannilian 
1  patrols, 

:  the  pre- 


II  t 


arren  cx- 
V  storms, 
aiijres,  by 
shore  are 
iinds. 

.  distance, 
As  he  ap- 
rs,  and  by 
art  nakcLl, 
nd  a  barn 
ribs  of  un- 
ng  the  vis- 
1  the  scene, 
he  narrow 
li,  nowhere 
a  shallow 
t,  — grassy 


SABLE       uAND. 


Jinufp  JO.        1 35 


hill  and  sandy  va'"  -y  faditiK  away  into  the  distance.  On  the  foreground  the  outpofit 
men  ^uUopin^  tht.r  rou^li  poiiit^s  into  headi|uarrer'<,  rccallt'd  by  the  tla^  Hyint^c  over 
hifl  head;  tho  \Ve>t-vnd  Iioum;  of  rctiige,  with  bread  and  matches,  llrevNi,od  and 
kcttli!,  and  <lireclions  to  lind  water,  and  iicadtiuarters  with  tlaK-statf  on  the  udjoin- 
injjf  hill.  Kvery  sandy  peak  or  grassy  knoll  svitii  a  dead  man's  name  or  old  snip's 
triidition, —  Maker's  Hill, 'I'rotfs  tjove,  Scotchman's  Head,  French  (ianlcns,  —  tra- 
ditionary spot  where  tlie  poor  convicts  expiated  their  social  crimes  — tlie  little 
buriil-jiround  ncstlin;;'  in  tlie  long  t;rass  of  a  high  iiill,  and  consecrated  to  the  re- 
pose of  many  a  sea-tossed  limb  ;  and  '2-'6  M.  down  the  shallow  lake,  the  South-side 
house  and  barn,  and  stall"  and  boats  lying  on  the  lake  i)e>ide  the  door,  i)  M.  fartinir 
down,  by  the  iii  I  of  a  glass,  he  may  view  the  tlag-stalfat  the  foot  of  the  lake,  and  5 
M.  further  the  Kast-emi  lookout,  with  its  stall"  and  watch-hou.se.  Herds  of  wiM 
ponies  dot  the  hills,  and  black-duck  and  sheldrakes  are  hca  ling  their  young  broods 
on  the  mirror-like  i)onda.  Seals  innuiirerablo  are  basking  on  the  warm  santls,  or 
piled  like  ledges  of  rock  along  the  shores  The  (riiisi^nw's  bow,  the  Muskom niet'x 
stern,  the  East  Boston's  hulk,  and  the  grinning  ribs  of  the  well-fastened  iiiiiijf ,  are 
spotting  the  santls,  each  with  its  tale  of  lust  adventure',  hardships  passed,  and  toil 
endured.  The  whole  picture  Is  set  in  a  silver-frosted  frame  of  rolling  surf  and  ^ca- 
ribbcd  .sand  " 

"  .Mounted  upon  his  hardy  pony,  tb  solitary  patrol  starts  uf»on  his  lonely  way. 
He  rides  up  the  centre  valleys,  ever  d  anon  mounting  a  gra.s.sy  hill  to  look  sea- 
waril,  reaches  the  \Ve,-t-end  bar,  speculates  upon  iierchance  a  broken  spar,  an  empty 
bottl(\  or  a  cask  of  beef  struggling  in  tne  land-wash,  —  now  fords  tlie  shal.ow  lake, 
It  'dng  well  for  his  liind-range,  to  escape  the  hole  where  Baker  was  drowned;  and 
coming  on  the  breeding-ground  of  the  counMess  birds,  his  pony's  hoof  with  a  reck- 
le.-is  smash  goes  crunching  thrtnigh  a  dozen  <'ggs  or  callow  young.  He  fairly  puts 
ills  pony  to  her  mettle  to  escape  the  dond  of  angry  birds  which,  arising  in  countless 
numl)(!rs,  dent  his  weather-beaten  tarpaulin  with  their  sharp  bills,  and  snaj)  hi.^ 
pony's  ears,  and  c<nif  .se  him  with  tlieir  sh.irp,  shrill  cries.  Ten  minutes  more,  and 
'■•i  is  holding  had  t' >  count  the  .seul.s.  There  tlu^y  lay,  old  ocean's  llocks,  resting 
»    "ir  wavetii-^     I  limi  a,  —  great  ocean  bulls,  and  cows,  and  calves."     (Dr.  J.  B. 

.^  or  over  a  century  Sable  Island  has  been  famous  for  its  wild  horses.  They  num- 
ber pi  rhaps  400,  and  are  divided  into  gmgs  which  are  under  the  leadership  of  the 
old  II  lif^s.  They  re.«emble  the  Mexican  or  Ukraine  wild  horses, in  their  large  heads, 
sh.iggy  necks  •^loping  quarters,  paddling  giit,  and  chestnut  or  piebalil  colors  Once 
a  year  the  dni  -Jiire  all  herded  by  daring  Horsemen  int  )al;irge  pound,  where  20  or  30 
of  tlie  best  ;i  ken  out  to  be  sent  to  Nova  Scotia.     After  tiie  horses  chosen  for  ex- 

porLitiou  are  ■  . ^.socd  and  secured,  the  remainder  are  turued  loose  agaiu. 


Since  Sable  Island  was  first  sighted  by  Cabot,  in  1497,  it  ha.s  been  an  object  of 
terror  to  mariners.  .Several  vessels  of  D'Anville's  French  Armada  were  lost  here ; 
and  among  the  many  wrecks  in  later  days,  tin;  chief  have  been  tlio  ^o  uf  tlie  ocean 
Bteamship  Gi on(i<i  amX  tne  French  frigite  L' Afriiainp, 

In  the  year  1583,  when  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  was  returning  frot.i  Newfoundland 
(of  which  he  had  taken  possession  in  the  name  of  the  linglish  Crown),  iiis  litth;  tieet 
became  (entangled  among  the  shoals  about  Sable  Island.  On  one  ol  these  outlying 
bars  the  ship  Delight  struck  heavily  and  d  ished  her  stern  and  quarters  to  pieces. 
The  lilicers  and  over  lOJ  men  were  lost,  and  14  of  the  crew,  after  drifting  about  in  a 
piiuiace  for  many  diys,  were  flnn'v  rescued  Tiie  other  vessels,  the  Sixurel  and  the 
(Jol'/en  Hiii'l^  bore  off  to  sea  anu  -et  tneir  cour.so  for  bjugiand.  IJut  wnen  ol"  the 
Az  ires  tiie  S'jiinrfl  was  .sorely  to-iseil  by  a  tempest  (being  of  only  10  tons'  burden), 
and  upon  her  deck  was  seen  .*^ir  ilumpirey  Gilbert  reading  a  book.  X-*  she  swept 
l)ast  tne  Goldtii  IliiuJ,  the  brave  kniglit  cried  out  to  tiie  <'aptain  of  the  latter: 
"  Courage,  my  1  ids,  we  are  as  near  heaven  by  sea  as  by  land.'"  .Vbont  midnight  the 
S(jiiirrrl  plunged  heiivilv  forward  into  the  trough  of  the  sea,  and  went  down  with 
all  on  board.  Thus  perished  triis  "  resolute  soldier  of  Jesus  Christ,  ....  one  of  the 
noblest  and  best  of  men  in  an  aue    f  great  men." 

In  15UH  a  futile  attempt  at  coloui/iiig  Sable  I.sland  was  made  by  "  ^e  Sieur  Baroti 
de  beri  et  do  St.  Just,  Vit  mte  de  Uueu."  But  he  left  some  live-stock  here  that 
afterwards  saved  many  lives. 

In  the  year  15'H  the  Marquis  de  la  Roche  was  sent  by  Henri  IV.  to  America,  car- 
rying 200  convicts  fi*om  the  French  prisons.    He  deteruiiued  to  fouad  a  settlement 


■■■f 

1;'1 

■rt  ■; 

i  1, 

1  ■■^'Mn 

•n 


S      1 

.' ' '  >''' 


■•-s. 


3. 


■.•:v/:i 


'  .'.;f«-."l 

•<.■: . 


1  'M\      Itoiit,'  .St. 


NKW   CLASdOW. 


rrm 

i   ,.■ 

oa       i 

■ 

■ 

^^E 

■!*r| 

• 

1. . 

I  ,. 

• 
«. 

^        ^! 


^"V^; 


I       7!, 

li 


iJ 


mi  Siihio  InIiuiiI,  mid  loH  40  of  IiIn  iiini  tlit'ic  fi>  rninini'iico  Mm  work.     Hcmiii  iif>f<r, 
1>«»  III   KimIii-  >vns  tnrcid    li\    KtlCNM  of  htmill    in    n  liliii    In    I'llllicf,    iiluMiilolllli^    lllfM) 
llllloi  |||||iltt>   I  oloiiiolM.       VVilllolll    tooil,    I'lorllih^',    III'    \\<i<ii|,    tlii'V    HIllti'Ktl    iltti'll.-'t'lv 
lllllll   |>lirtilll  icllcl   WUH  liiollglit   li>    llli>  «lr.  kill),   iilll    l•'n•lM•||^lll|>oll  llif  i>lniii|.      V'vr 

Ki'Vi'ii  vi'iirs  l.li(<\  dwell   ill    litiH  lniiK   o|  nmi  t  Ui  d  IiiiiIki',  dri'M.nl   in  M-iil-Nkiiin,  and 

living  on  tisli.      Tiirii    Kin^   II I    IV.  ^<>lll    oui   u  .x|ii|)  undi  r  Clirilottl,  iind  tlif  1*2 

Mirvivois,  (;iiniit,  .xi|ii.'illil,  mid  loiin-lu>uidt'd,  wciv  <iini»'d  Imt'k  to  l<'raiuo,  when' Mit-y 
Were  |iardoiii'd  and  irwanlvd. 

All  ailt'iiipt  waM  iiiiid)-  al>oiif  tlic  inidill<>  of  Hii>  iCitli  ci'iitiirv  to  roioMlM'  ('a|ii>  llro- 
toii  ill  the  iiitcrosl.H  ol  S|i,'in,  Inil  Hit'  lloct  iliat  wa-i  tiaii>|iortiin;  ""'  ?*|»iiidaid«  uud 
tlirli  |ii'o|ii>rl.v  wnn  daHlitil  lo  pitrcH  on  ^ahtu  Ihluiid. 

31.    St.  John  and  Halifax  to  Pictou. 

n.V  tliP  IMctoii  llraiii  li  lliiilway,  wliicli  divcim«H  fnmi  tiio  Iiitoii'oloiilai  llailwav  at 
Tniro. 

MiitloiiM.  -  St  John  Id  Victou.  Ht.  John  to  Tniio,  UU  M  ;  ValU«v,  HID; 
I'liion,  rjt  ;  Kiv.Ts.lal.',  li'JS  ;  W  rst  Uivrr,  i:;{t; ;  <iU«Mnan\ .  'Ji;{ ;  llnu'w.'ll,  iif,0  ; 
Bt.llMitoii. 'IV);  W(«tvilU<, 'jr.S  :  S\  lv«v*fcr,  2C.;i ;  Koidibroom   20r. ;  I'ictou, '2(;i». 

SfiilloiiH.  -  ll,ili><i.r  10  I'hioii.  Iladlax  ro  'I'ruio,  »ij  M.:  Vallov,  titl;  Union, 
71;  IJiv«iN,Mi',  74  ,  \V(«-t  Uivcr,  H'_' ;  (iicni:air\ ,  lilt  llo|K>wfll,  !)7  ;  StoUiirton,  li  2; 
Uostvillo.  104;  Svlvi'^UT,  11(»;   l.oihbiooin,  1112;  I'ictmi,  116. 

St.  .Irtlin  t«)  Truro,  soo  Houti's  It]  and  17. 

llnlifax  to  rniro,  m'o  Kmito  17  (icvcrsivi). 

Tho  train  runs  K.  iVoJu  'Truro,  and  soon  afti'r  loaving  tho  environs,  pntors 
n  coinparativi'ly  brokon  and  utiintcri'stiiif;  rojrion.  On  tlio  I.  arc  tlic  roll- 
inj;  I'ool-liills  ol'  (he  Coln>tiuid  K'anm',  aiil  tlu'  valley  ol"  tlio  Salmon  Ivivi^ 
is  follow  »>d  liy  several  ii;sij:nilu-ant  forest  stations.  Jiirt  rfiilnle  issnrroiuided 
by  a  ploasatit  diversity  ol'  lull-sei'uery,  and  lias  a  spool-laftory  anil  a  eon- 
siderable  luiulier  trade.  14  M.  to  the  N.  is  the  thrivin<r  Seottish  settlement 
ol'  /^nrltoirn.  Hey>nd  West  Hiver  the  train  reaehes  Cth  lujitvnj,  which  is 
the  station  for  the  Scottish  villaires  of  New  Lairj;  and  (iairliu-h.  J/i'jxiriU 
(Hopewell  llutcU  has  small  woollen  and  spool  I'actories;  and  a  short  dis- 
tance lu'yond  the  line  approache>  the  hanks  of  the  Kast  Hiver. 

Stt  lliirtoii  is  the  station  for  the  {jreat  Albion  Mines,  which  arc  con- 
trolK'd  (for  the  most  psirt)  hy  the  (Jeneral  Minini;  Association,  of  London. 
There  i>  a  po|)ulous  village  here,  most  of  wlios(<  inhabitants  are  coimected 
with  tho  niii.cs.  The  coal-seams  extend  over  several  miles  of  area,  and 
arc  of  remarkalde  tliiekncss.  They  are  beinji;  worked  in  several  |)its,  and 
would  doubtless  return  a  great  revenue  in  ease  of  the  removal  of  the  re- 
.stri«'tivo  trade  regulations  of  the  United  States.  In  tie  year  lb^G4  over 
200, Oo()  tons  of  coal  were  raised  from  these  mines. 

New  Glasgow  (I'l'/n/i'/Hi' //i»/t/)  has  2,500  inhabitants,  larg^cly  engaf^ed 

iu   sliipbuildmg   and    luiving    other   maiuifuctures,    includiiij^    ioundrics 

and  tanneries,  steel  and  glass  works.     It  is  favorably  situated  on  the  East 

Kivor,  and  has  largo  coal-mines  in  the  vicinity.     Here  are  the  main  olHces 

and  W.  terminus  of  the  railway,  running  75  M.  E.  to  the  Strait  of  Canso. 


PICTOU. 


jioutf.ii.    137 


lljilhvtiv  at 


Pictou  (yein  Revere  fJonnr ;  Central  ffinixe)  it*  a  floiirishiiip  town  on 
thf  (fiilf  Htioro,  w'illi  fl,M)0  iiilial)itiiiitH,  hjx  cliiirclK's,  u  iiiasoiiu;  liai!,  two 
Wii'Uly  piipfT^^,  till'  piililic  Imildiii^H  nf  I'lclciii  Coiiiity,  tliicc  hanks, 
n  lianil'-onic  V.  M.  ('.  A.  hiiildiiii,',  aii<l  the  rictoii  Afadciuy,  foiiiidcd  on 
tin-  |il;iii  nf  a  Scottish  rnivcrsity  in  IHIM,  and  now  occMipyin/^-  a  laixr  and 
liand>'onir  new  hnildini;,  willi  niiisctnn,  lil)i'at'y,  convocalion  liall,  etc. 
The  liarl)or  is  tlic  (incst  on  tin-  S.  slion-  of  Ihc^Jnlf,  and  <'an  .'i(r«»ninio(Ialo 
nliipM  tif  any  Imi-dm,  having  a  dcplli  (»f  5-7  faliionis.  Tlu'  town  or(  iipicH 
a  ronnnandin;;  posilinii  on  a  Inllsidf  over  a  small  ('ov(>  on  tln>  N.  r*id(>  of 
(l«o  liarhor;  and  nearly  opposite,  the  hasin  is  divided  into  three  arms,  into 
which  Ihiw  the  I''ast,  Miihlle,  and  West  Kixcrs,  on  »\hieh  are  (Ik;  nhij)- 
pin^  w  liarves  of  the  Alhion.  Interecdoninl,  Acadia,  and  Vale  Coal  ('oin- 
panies,  wiienee  ininiense  (piantities  of  coal  are  exported.  'I'liere  is  very 
])lensant  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  Tictou,  and  j^ood  sea-hat hinfj  on  the 
adjacent  iieaches. 

IMctoii  has  a  lar(j;o  coasting  triidc:  is  en<ja<^ed  in  shiphnilding;  and  has 
a  marine-railway.  It  has  also  toitacco-IUctoriPs,  canling-jnills,  several 
saw  and  grist  mills,  a  fonndry,  and  three  or  fonr  tanneries.  Hut  the  chief 
husiness  is  connected  with  tln^  adjMcent  mines  and  the  exi)o»"tation  of  coal, 
and  with  the  hirge  IVeestoni^  ([nnrrics  in  the  vicinity. 

Staines  leave  IM<'t()n  sevenil  times  weekly,  for  Iliver  .lohn,  T;it;minjTonohe,  ^Vallace, 
rnt;>vasli,  nml  Anilicrst  (sec  pa^ce  HI).  Steamships  jcvivo  (opposih-)  IMfton  forChar- 
Inttcfr.wn,  on  Monday,  Woilnpsflay,  FH'tav,  and  Safurdav,  on  the  arrival  of  the  IIiil- 
ifix  tr.iin  (see  Uoiii*'  44):  also  for  flu>  (Jiilf  porfs  ami  Qiieliec,  alternate  Monday 
evening's  (8-e  U(inr»' till) ;  also  for  the  Magdalen  Islauds  (st'O  Koute  49);  and  for 
Souris  and  Georgetown,  T.  E.  I. 


r 


!,  m 

.■•ftf,  1 ' 


After  the  divine  flloosoap  (see  pa^e  10(5)  had  loft  Nowfonndland,  whore  hn  conferred 
npoii  the  loons  the  power  of  woirdly  eryiriK  wlien  tliey  needed  his  aid,  lie  landed  at, 
Pictou  (from  riktiiiik,  an  Indian  word  meaning?"  Hnhhlinf;,"' or  •' (ias-explodinp;," 
and  referred  to  the  ehnllitions  of  the  water  near  the  ^reat  coal-beds).  Jlere  lia 
ereateil  the  ttu'toise  tril)e,  in  tliis  wise:  (ireat  festivals  and  pjames  were  mad((  in  hln 
honor  hy  the  Indiims  of  IMctook,  hnt  he  diose  to  dwell  with  a  homely,  lazy,  and 
despi<od  old  haehelor  named  MikehieUh,  whom,  after  clotldnj?  in  his  own'  robe  and 
jrivinj?  him  victory  in  the  >;ames,  lie  initiated  as  tlm  prof^enitor  and  kinf?  of  all  the 
tortoises,  smoking  him  till  iiis  coat  became  brown  and  as  hard  a.s  bone,  and  then  re- 
dueini^  Ins  size  by  a  rude  surj^ieal  operation. 

The  site  of  Pictou  was  occupied  in  ancient  times  by  a  populous  Indian  village, 
and  in  17(53  the  French  made  futi!(>  ))rep»rations  to  found  a  colony  here  In  1705, 
2OO,uU0  acres  of  land  in  this  vicinity  were  prantcd  to  a  compiiny  in  Philadelphia, 
whence  bunds  of  settlers  came  in  17')7-7l  Meantime  the  site  of  the  town  liad  been 
given  to  an  army  oftieer,  wlio  in  turn  sold  it  for  a  horse  and  saddle.  The  I'ennsyl- 
vanians  \V(>re  disheartened  at  tlie  severity  of  the  climate  and  the  infertility  of  the 
Mn\,  and  no  pro;?ress  w:is  made  in  the  new  colony  until  1773,  when  the  ship  Hfctor 
arrived  with  Hit  persons  from  the  Scottish  Jliirhlands.  They  were  broufrht  over  by 
the  Philadelphia  conii>any,  but  when  they  found  that  the  shore  lands  were  ail 
tiken,tliey  refused  to  settle  on  the  comi>anys  territory,  and  hence  the  agent  cut 
olf  their  snp]ily  of  provisions.  Tlioy  subsisted  on  tlsh  and  venison,  with  a  little 
Hour  from  Truro,  until  the  next  spriiig,  when  they  sent  a  ship-ioad  of  pine-timber 
to  Hritain,  and  planted  wheat  and  potatoes.  Soon  afterwards  they  were  joined  by 
15  destitute  families  from  Dumfriesshire  ;  and  at  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War 
many  disbanded  soldiers  settled  here  with  their  families.  In  178fi  the  Rev.  JanieS 
McGregor  came  to  Pictou  and  maae  a  home,  and  us  he  was  a  powerful  preacher  ia 


■i  ' 


'  1-1 


Ik, 


-I 


.  i 


I  ; 


)M 


J^^'^  I 


:"«>  ' 


138      Route  32. 


ANTIGONISH. 


the  Onolic  lan^uapo,  nmny  Ilijrhlnndors  from  the  other  parts  of  the  Province  moved 
here,  aiici  new  inmiifiratinns  nriived  from  Scotland.  In  1TH8  the  town  was  eoni- 
nienred  on  iN  jircsent  site  by  Deacon  l'atter>on,  and  in  \1\*2  it  was  made  a  shiie- 
town.  (ireat  »|iiantitics  of  luinlier  wen-  expoitcd  to  Uritiiin  hctwcen  18(15  and  1S20, 
dvirinp;  the  jM'i'iod  of  Knroi>i'an  conviilsiim,  wiien  the  Ualtic  jxnts  wer(>  closed,  and 
while  the  Hritish  navy  was  the  main  hope  of  the  nation.  The  place  was  ciiptured  in 
1777  by  an  Anieri''aii  iirivatccr.  Coal  was  discovered  liere  in  17!t8,  bnt  the  i-xjiorta- 
tion  was  small  until  1S27,  when  the  General  Mining  Association  of  London  began 
operations. 

J  W.  Dawson,  LL.  D  ,  F.  R.  S.,  was  horn  at  Pieton  in  1820,  and  prndnated  at  the 
University  of  Kdinbnrgh  in  1840.  He  studied  and  travelled  with  Sir  ('li.irles  Lvell, 
and  has  becotiu'  on(>  of  the  leadt'rs  among  the  Christian  scientists,  llis  grcitesf  woik 
was  the  "  Acadian  (leology.''  For  the  past  20  years  lie  has  been  Principal  of  the 
McUill  College,  at  Montreal. 

32.    St.  John  and  Halifax  to  the  Strait  of  Canso  and  Cape 

Breton. 


This  comparatively  new  route  leaves  the  Intercolonial  Riilway  (Pieton  Branch) 
at  New  Glasgow  (see  piige  13  i),  104  M.  from  Halifax,  and  238  W  from  St.  John,  and 
runs  down  to  the  Strait  of  C'anso,  where  it  connects  with  a  st(>am  ferry-boat  to  (  apo 
Hreton,  and  with  steamboats  to  various  ports  on  the  island  A  trip  eastward  by  this 
route,  and  a  voyage  on  the  Hras  dOr.  gives  a  deepiy  interesting  excursion. 

Stations.  —  New  Glnsgow  to  Glenfalloch,  Bk  M.  ;  Merigomish,  OJ ;  French 
River,  13|;  Piedmont,  18 ;  Avondale,  22  ;  P.arney's  River,  28.V  ;  Murshy  Hope, '^0 ; 
James  River,  30\  ;  Hrierly  IJrook,  34 .V  ;  .\ntigoiiish,  40  ;  South  River,  45  ;  Ta\  lor's 
Riiid,  47;  Ponepiet,  50:  Ileatherton,  52i  ;  Afton,  50  ;  Tracadie,  (50:  Giroirs,  (il)  ; 
Little  Tracadie,  (J5  ;  ilarbor  au  Bouche,  Gi' ;  Capo  Porcupine,  G!) ;  Strait  of  Canso, 
74. 

Kxprcss-traius  run  daily,  leaving  New  Gla.sgow  after  the  arrival  of  the  train  from 
Ilalilax. 

On  reaching  the  open  country  beyond  New  Gln?gow,  tlie  rond  passes  on 
for  several  miles  throngh  an  uninteresting:  region  of  small  farm.s  and  recent 
clearings.  At  the  crossing  of  the  Sutherland  Kiver,  a  road  diverges  to  the 
N.  E  ,  lending  to  Mtri(joini<li,  a  shipbuilding  hamlet  on  the  coaet,  Avitli  a  safe 
and  well-sheltered  harbor.  In  this  vicinity  are  iron  and  coal  deposits,  the 
latter  of  which  arc  worked  by  the  Merigomish  Coal  Alining  Company,  with 
a  capital  of  $400,000.  Beyond  the  hamlet  at  the  crossing  of  French  River, 
—  "  which  m;iy  have  seen  better  days,  and  will  probably  see  worse,"  — 
the  road  ascends  !i  long  ridge  which  overlooks  the  Piedmont  Valley  to  the 
X.  E.  Thence  it  descends  through  a  sulliciently  dreary  country  to  tlia 
relay-house  at  JLtrs/nj  Hope 

"  The  sun  has  set  when  we  come  thundering  down  into  the  pretty  Catholic  village 
of  Alltitfonisli.  the  most  home-like  plice  we  have  seen  on  the  island.  The  twin 
stone  towers  of  the  unfinished  cathedral  lootn  up  large  in  the  fading  light,  hrd  the 
bishop's  pidace  on  the  hill,  the  home  of  the  I?i<hop  of  Arichat,  appears  t'.  '  '■  an  im- 
posing white  barn  with  many  staring  windosvs.  .  .  .  People  were  loit  .  g  il  tho 
street;  the  young  beaux  going  up  and  down  wth  the  belles,  -  ■..  the  '^m  ureiy 
munuer  in  youth  and  summer.     Perhaps  they  were  students  ficm         Xavier  Col- 


ANTIG0NI3H. 


Route  3Z.      139 


ce  moved 
f;&»  com- 
a  shiie- 
Liul  1S20, 
ised,  ami 
|itiu'<'il  in 
■  cxixirta- 
011  bi'giiu 

ed  nt  the 

rlos  Lvt'll, 
ttcst  work 
)al  of  tho 


d  Cape 


1  Branch) 

John, and 
at  to  (  apo 
ard  by  this 

I ;  French 
Hope,  'JS ; 

« ;  Ta\  lor's 

roirs,  dli  ; 

of  Canf>o, 

train  from 

pMPPGP  on 
aid  recent 
o-cs  to  the 
vith  a  safe 
)OPitP,  the 
any,  with 
ich  Hirer, 
|\orpe,"  — 
ley  to  the 
ry  to  th3 


olio  ■village 
Iho  twin 
t,  sird  the 
'../'  an  im- 
;r  Yt:  tho 
e  'iM  ureiy 
X-Jivier  Col- 


lege, or  visitinpf  gallants  from  Guysborough.  They  look  into  tho  post-offloe  and  the 
fancy  Htore.  They  stroll  and  take  tlieir  little  j»rovinci:il  pleasure,  and  make  love, 
for  all  we  can  see,  as  if  Antigonish  wen;  a  part  of  the  world.  How  they  must  look 
down  on  Marshy  FIopc!  and  Addiiigton  Forks  and  Tracadie  I  What  a  charming  place 
to  live  in  is  this  I '"   (Baddeck.) 

Antigonishi  (two  good  inns),  tho  caj)ital  of  the  comity  of  the  same 
name,  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  long  and  shoal  harbor,  near  St. 
George's  Bay.  Some  sliipbuilding  is  done  here,  and  many  cargoes  of 
cattle  and  butter  are  sent  hence  to  Newfoundland.  On  the  E.  shore  of  the 
harbor  are  valuable  deposits  of  gypsum,  which  are  sent  away  on  coasting- 
vessels.  The  inhabitants  of  the  village  and  the  adjiicent  country  are  of 
Scottish  descent,  and  their  unwavering  indu.  try  has  made  Antigonish  a 
prosperous  and  pleasant  town.  The  Colle(/e  of  St.  Francis  Xarier  is  the 
Diocesan  Seminary  of  the  Kranco-Scottisli  Diocese  of  Arichat,  and  is' the 
residence  of  the  Bishop.  It  is  a  Catholic  institution,  and  has  six  teachers. 
Tho  Cathedral  of  St.  Xuwi7i  was  begun  in  18G7,  and  was  consecrated  Sep- 
tomlier  13,  1874,  by  a  Pontifical  High  Ma«s,  at  which  7  bishops  and  30 
priests  assisted.  It  is  in  the  Roman  Uasilica  style,  170  by  70  ft.  in  area, 
and  is  built  of  blue  limestone  and  brick.  On  the  facade,  between  the  tall 
square  towers,  is  the  Gaelic  inscription.  Tlyhe  Dhe  (''the  House  of  God  "). 
Tiie  arched  roof  is  supported  by  14  Corinthian  columns,  and  the  interior 
has  numerous  windows  of  stained  glass.  The  costly  chancel-window  rep- 
resents Christ,  tho  Virgin  Mary,  and  St.  .Tosei)h.  There  is  a  large  organ, 
and  also  a  chime  of  bells  named  in  honor  of  St.  Joseph  and  the  Scottish 
i^aiiits,  Nniian,  (.'oliunba,  and  Margaret,  Qu  >en  of  Scotland.  This  splen- 
did structure  is  not  too  large  for  the  numerous  congregation  every  Sunday 
from  the  villagi;  and  surrounding  country,  mostly  Highland-Scotch, 
"who  frequently  hear  sermons  in  their  own  Gaelic  tongue  from  the  Cathe- 
dral pulpit.  A  few  yards  from  the  C-ithedral  there  is  a  neat  three- 
story  building  recently  erected  for  a  Ladies'  Academy,  to  be  conducted 
by  the  Montreal  Sisters  of  the  Congregation.  The  other  denominations 
having  churches  in  Antigonish  are  the  Presbyterians,  the  Anglicans,  and 
the  Baptists.  The  Presbyterian  Church,  on  Main  Street,  is  a  handsome 
structure  with  a  tall  spire.  The  viUage  has  two  branch  banks  and  two 
weekly  newspapers,  —  The  Aurora,  the  organ  of  the  Bishop  of  Arichat, 
and  The  Casket.  The  count}' has  a  population  of  18,100,  devoted  chietly 
to  agricultural  pursuits.  Its  capital  is  a  pretty  village  with  pleasant 
drives  in  the  vicinity.  Nearly  all  the  people  of  the  county  do  their  slutp- 
ping  in  the  village,  and  hence  the  numerous  stores  along  its  main  street, 
souio  of  them  large  brick  buildings.  The  harbor  is  ill-suited  for  shipping, 
but  the  railway  now  supplies  the  deliciency. 

1  Antigonish,  —  accent  ou  the  laot  syllublc     It  is  an  ludiau  word,  meaning  "  the  P.lver  ot 
riah." 


<■■     tf'il 


•r  ■]: 


.m 


\k 


I-    4: 


140     Route  32. 


TRACADIE. 


Stages  run  daily  from  Antfgonish  S.  to  Sherbrooke  by  Lochaber  and  College  Lake. 
N.  \V.  of  the  village  are  the  bold  and  picturesque  highlands  long  known  as  tho 
Antlurouisli  i>lts.)  projei'ting  I'roni  the  line  of  the  coast  about  15  M.  N.  into 
the  (rulf.  They  are,  in  some  places,  l.OOO  ft  high,  and  have  a  f^trong  and  well- 
marked  mountainous  character.  Semi-weekly  stages  run  N  from  Anfigonish  to 
JAf)/v/.'</o»"/(  and  (rY>r//('/w'//(',  nrspectively  10  and  18  M  distant.  8-10  M.  N.  of 
tlie  latter  is  the  bold  promontory  of  C;i]>H  St.  GtMU'iro,  on  which,  400  11.  above 
the  sea.  is  a  powerful  revolving  wiiite  light,  wliieh  is  visilile  l()r25  M.  at  i-ea.  From 
this  point  a  road  runs  S.  \V.  to  M I'iiiii'inf  Cove,  which  is  also  acces>ible  by  a  ro- 
mantic road  through  the  hills  from  Antigonish.  This  is  a  small  seaside  lianilet, 
vrhicb  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  II.  B.  M.  frigate  MaHcinant  was  once 
caught  in  these  narrow  waters  during  a  hciavy  storm ,  and  was  run  ashore  here  in  order 
to  avoid  being  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  iron-bound  coast  beyond.  4-5  M.  bc\ond 
the  Cove  is  Arlsaii;,  a  I'oinantically  situated  settlement  of  Scottish  Catliolics,  wlio 
named  their  new  home  in  memory  of  Arisaig,  in  the  Western  Highlands.  It  lias  a 
long  wooden  pier,  \inder  whose  lee  is  tiie  only  harbor  and  shelter  against  east-winds 
between  Antigonish  and  Merigomish. 

The  first  important  station  between  Antigonish  and  the  Strait  is 
Heatherton,  a  Franco-Scotch  district  of  2,000  inhabitants.  A  ''lily  stage 
connects  the  railway  at  this  station  Avitli  Guijsborouyh,  a  town  on  tiie 
Atlantic  coast,  abont  20  M.  S.  of  Heatherton,  and  the  capital  of  the 
county  of  Guysborongh  (see  page  l;J3).  Tracndle  is  in  a  French  district 
of  1,180  inhabitants.  There  is  a  monastery  here,  pertaining  to  the  aus- 
tere order  of  tlie  Trappists.  Most  of  the  monks,  between  40  and  50  in  num- 
ber, are  from  Belgium.  They  are  excellent  farmers,  and  have  their  land 
thoroughly  cultivated.  There  is  also  a  (.'onvent  of  Sisters  of  Charity  in 
the  vicinity.  The  people  of  Tracadie,  like  all  the  41,219  French  inhab- 
itants of  ISTova  Scotia,  belong  to  the  old  Acadian  race,  whose  sad  and 
romantic  history  is  alluded  to  on  pages  108  and  113.  "And  now  we 
passed  through  another  French  settlement,  Tracadie,  and  a^ain  the  Nof- 
man  kirtle  and  petticoat  of  the  pastoral,  black-eyed  Evangeline  appear, 
and  then  pass  like  a  day-dream."     (Cozzens.) 

Harbor  an  Bonche  is  a  French  district  of  2,140  inhabitants.  The  village 
is  out  of  sight  of  the  station,  on  St.  (leorge's  Bay,  and  has  two  churches 
and  two  inns.  Beyond  this  point  the  line  soon  reaches  its  terminus,  on  the 
Strait  of  Canso,  where  passengers  for  Cape  Breton  take  steamers. 


[College  Lnke. 
nown  fts  tht> 
,  M.  N.  into 
njj;  ntul  well- 
iitigouiHh  to 
10  M.  N.  of 
4(i(»  tl.  above 
it  t^ia.     From 
ililc  by  .1  ro- 
isiile   hanilc't, 
ant  was  once 
jbcroiii  order 
5  M.  be\oud 
atbolics,  wlio 
Ids.     It  lias  a 
ust  east-wiuds 

le  Strait  is 
L  ''aily  stage 
own  on  the 
pital  of  the 
ench  district 

to  the  aus- 
kI  50  in  num- 
,-e  their  land 
)f  Charity  in 
rench  iiihab- 
losc  sad  and 
And  now  we 
lain  the  Nor- 

liue  appear, 

The  village 
two  churches 
iiiinus,  on  the 
iiers. 


CAPE    BEETON. 


The  island  of  Cape  Breton  is  about  100  M.  long  by  80  M.  wide,  and  has 
an  area  of  2,000,000  acres,  of  which  800,000  acres  consist  of  lakes  and 
owamps.  The  S.  part  is  low  and  generally  level,  but  the  N.  portion  is 
very  irregular,  and  leads  off  into  unexplored  highlands.  The  chief  natural 
peculiarities  of  the  island  are  the  Sydney  coal-fields,  which  cover  250 
square  miles  on  the  E.  coast,  and  the  B''as  (?0r,  a  great  lake  of  salt  water, 
minifying  through  the  centre  of  the  island,  and  communicating  with  the 
sea  by  narrow  channels.  The  exterior  coast  line  is  275  M.  long,  and  is 
yjrovided  with  good  harbors  on  the  E.  and  S.  shores. 

The  chief  exports  of  Cape  Breton  are  coal  uid  fish,  to  the  United  States; 
timlior,  to  England;  and  farm-produce  and  .ive-stock  to  Newfoundland. 
The  I'ommanding  positioti  of  the  inland  makes  it  the  key  to  the  Canadas, 
and  the  naval  power  holding  these  shores  could  control  or  crush  the  com- 
merce of  the  Gulf.  The  upland  soils  are  of  good  quality,  and  produce 
valuable  crops  of  cereals,  potatoes,  and  smaller  vegetables. 

The  Editor  trusts  that  the  followhig  extract  from  Brown's  *'  History  of 
the  Island  of  Cape  Breton"  (London  :  1869)  will  be  of  interest  to  the 
tourist  :  "  Tlie  summers  of  Cape  Breton,  say  fro.n  May  to  October,  may 
challenge  comparison  with  those  of  any  country  withiti  the  temperate 
rejgions  of  the  world.  During  all  that  time  there  are  perhaps  not  more 
than  ten  foggy  days  in  any  part  of  the  island,  ex<--»pt  along  the  southern 
coast,  between  the  Gut  of  Canso  and  Scatari.  P/ight  sunny  days,  with 
balmv  westerly  winds,  follow  each  other  in  succession,  week  after  week, 
wliile  the  midday  heats  are  often  tempered  by  cool,  refreshing  sea-breezes. 
Of  rain  there  is  seldom  enough;  the  growing  crops  more  often  suffer  from 
too  little  than  too  much." 

"  To  the  tourist  that  loves  nature,  and  who,  for  the  manifold  beauties  by 
hill  and  shore,  by  woods  and  waters,  i>  happy  t'^  make  small  sacrifices  of 
personal  comfort,  I  would  commend  Ca])e  Rroron.  Your  fasliionable, 
whose  main  object  is  company,  dress,  and  I'rivolous  pleasure  with  the  gay, 
and  whose  only  tolerable  stopping-place  is  the  grand  hotel,  had  better 
content  himself  with  reading  of  this  island."     (Xoule.  ) 

The  nam>:!  of  the  island  is  derived  from  that  of  its  E.  cape,  which  was 
given  in  honor  of  its  discovery  by  Breton  mariners.  In  1713  the  French 
authorities  bestowed  upon  it  tne  new  name  of  L' hie  Royale,  during  the 


A.    **'  ^-    « 


142      Route  33.        THE  STRAIT  OF   CANSO. 


m 


reigr  of  Louis  XIV.  At,  this  time,  nfter  the  cession  of  Acndin  to  the  Brit- 
ish Crown,  many  of  its  inliMbitnnts  emii^rate'l  to  Cnpe  Breton  ;  iinrl  in 
Aujinst,  1714,  the  fortress  of  Lonislidiir^  wa-^  founded.  T)nrlni(  the  next 
hair-(M'iiturv  occurred  tlie  terrible  -wars  lietwoen  Krniice  and  Great  Britain, 
whose  chief  incidents  were  the  sietres  of  Loni^lioiirjr  and  the  final  demoli- 
tion of  tliat  redoubtable  fortre'^s.  In  1705  this  i<!an<l  was  amiexed  to  the 
I'rovince  of  Nova  Scotia  In  17i'"4  it  wa><  erected  into  a  separate  I'rovince, 
and  continncil  as  such  imtil  1820,  when  it  was  reannexed  to  Nova  Scotia. 
In  1815  Cape  Breton  had  ai»out  10,000  i?ihabitants,  but  in  1S71  irs  popula- 
tion amounted  to  75,503,  a  hir^e  proportion  of  whom  v,ore  from  tlie  Scot- 
tish riighluuds  (sue  Century  Miiyazint,  July,  1884). 


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33.    The  Strait  of  Canso. 

The  Gut  of  C:  .iso,  or  (as  it  is  now  more  generalh'  cahed^  *'ne  Strait  of 
Canso,  is  a  pic^^uresque  passarre  which  comiects  the  Atlantic  Ocean  with 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  aiid  separates  the  ir.land  of  Cape  Breton  from 
the  shores  of  Xova  Scotia,  'i'he  baulks  are  high  and  mountainou«,  covered 
with  spruce  and  other  e\crirreeits,  and  a  succession  of  small  white  ham- 
lets lines  the  coves  on  either  side.  Thi*  errand  aveinie  of  commerce 
peems  worthy  of  its  poetic  appellation  of  " 'ibe  Golden  Gate  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  Gulf."  It  is  claimed  that  more  keels  pass  throuirli  this  chamiel 
every  year  than  throufrh  any  other  in  the  world  except  the  Strait  of  Gib- 
raltar, iris  not  only  the  shortest  passajre  between  the  Atlantic  and  the 
Gulf,  but  has  the  advantage  of  anchorape  in  ca-e  of  contrary  winds  and  l)ad 
weather.  The  shores  are  bold-to  and  free  from  dangers,  and  there  are  sev- 
eral pood  anchorages,  out  of  the  current  and  in  a  moderate  depth  f)f  Avater. 
The  stream  of  the  tide  usually  sets  from  tlie  S.,  and  runs  in  great  swirling 
eddies,  but  is  much  influenced  by  the  wind''.  The  strait  is  described  by 
Dawson  as  "a  narrow  transverse  valley,  excavated  by  tlie  ci  iicnts  of  Ih'^ 
drift  period,"  and  portions  of  its  shores  are  of  the  carboniferous  epoch. 

The  Stmit  of  Canso  is  traversod  by  several  thousand  sail  in?- vessels  every  year,  and 
also  by  the  largo  stoi  iiers  of  the  Boston  and  Colonial  Stcani.-hip  Company. 

"So  with  rcnewid  anticipations  we  ride  on  toward  the  striit  'of  nnrivalled 
beauty,-  that  travellers  say  '  surpiti^^es  anythinfr  in  America.'  Ami,  indeeJ,<'ansean 
ean  have  niy  feeble  t<'stiino()y  in  eonfi'.ination.  It  is  a  jrrand  marine  'liirbway,  hav- 
ii'Sir  steep  hills  on  tli''  Cnpe  Bre*on  Islnnd  side,  and  lofty  nionntMin*  on  the  other 
ghore :  a  full,  hrofid,  mile-wide  space  betwe-n  them  ;  and  reaeliinfr.from  end  to  end, 
fifteen  miles,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence."     (Cozzens.) 

Vessels  from  the  S  ,  bound  for  the  Strait  of  Canso,  first  approach  tlie 
Nova-Scotian  sliores  rioar  Oipe  rnnso  (see  page  184),  whose  liglKs  and 
islands  nre  rr)unded,  and  the  cc>utse  lies  between  N.  W.  and  W.  N.  W. 
towards  Eddy  Point.  If  a  fnfi  prevail*,  tlie  steam-whistle  on  Cranberry 
Island  will  be  heard  giving  out  its  notes  of  warning,  soundiiiir  for  8  seconds 
in  each  minute,  and  heard  for  20  M.  with  the  wind,  for  15  M.  in  calm 


PORT  HASTINGS. 


Moute  33.       143 


wenthev,  and  5-8  M.  in  stormy  weatlier  and  apiinst  the  wind.  On  the  1. 
is  ChedM'u'iicto  Ray.  stretching  in  to  Guysb(irouo;h,  lined  along  its  S.  shore 
by  hills  3-700  ft.  higli;  and  on  the  r  the  Isle  .Madame  Is  soon  approached. 
28-30  M.  beyond  Cape  Caiiso  the  vessel  passes  Juldi/  Pidut  on  which  are 
two  fixed  white  lights  {visil)le  8  M  ).  On  the  starboard  beam  is  danvri  i 
Island,  beyond  whicli  is  tiic  l»road  estnary  of  ILthllntits  Hci/-  On  the 
Cape-Breton  shore  is  tlie  hamlet  of  Uear  I'oint,  ai.d  on  the  1.  are  Melford 
Creek  (witii  its  church),  Steep  Creek,  and  Pirate's  Cove.  The  handets  of 
Port  Mnlgrave  and  Foil  llawkesbury  are  now  seen,  nearly  opposite  each 
othe.,  and  half-way  u])  the  strait. 

Port  Mulgrave  (two  inns)  is  a  village  of  about  400  inhabitants,  on  the 
Nova-Scotia  side  of  the  strait.  It  is  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  and  has  a 
harbor  which  remains  open  all  the  year  round.  Gold-bearing  quartz  is 
found  in  the  vicinity;  and  bold  hills  tower  above  the  shore  for  a  long  dis- 
tance. A  steam  ferry-boat  plies  between  this  point  and  l^ort  Hawkesbnry, 
1^  M.  distant,  in  cnnnectior.  vith  the  railway,  running  dawn  from  New 
Ghipgow  (see  page  1;')8,  and  end  of  paire  10(5).  The  Cape  I'n'tou  Railwav 
was  opened  in  181)1  from  the  Strait  of  Canso  to  the  Grand  Narrows  and 
Sydney. 

Pore  Hawkesbury  {/I'iickc.'<f/urij  Ifnti/,  comfortable;  A  adit  lIvtiT)  is  a 
village  of  about  li(M)  iidiabitants,  on  tlui  Caj)e-Bn'ton  side  of  the  strait.  It 
is  silaalfd  ou  Sliip  lIarl»or,  a  suug  havcu  lor  vesscl>  of  -JO-ft.  ilraught, 
marked  by  a  lixt-d  red  liiiiit  on  Tapper  I'oint.  Tlus  i>  the  best  iiarbor 
on  the  strait,  and  lia^  vciy  good  hoidiug-^'round.  Tiie  village  is  of  a  scat- 
tfi-('d  apid'araiicc,  and  Ins  fuir  small  churches.  Stages  run  luMUf  to 
Sydney.  Arichat,  and  West  Bay,  on  the  Bras  d'Or;  and  a  railway  has 
b.'cn  surveyed  to  th<>  latter  iioiiit.  Tiie  steamsliii.s  that  ply  between  Bos- 
ton and  Prince  Edward  Island  weekly,  call  at  Port  llawkesbury,  toncliing 
at  the  V, harf  of  the  Bras  d'Or  steamboats,  and  makintr  close  and  sure  con- 
nections with  liieni.     They  ka.'e  for  Boston  eery  Friday. 

Port  Hastings  (more  generally  known  as  riaMtr  Cave)  is  about  3  M. 
above  Port  Ilav.kesbury,  on  the  (Jape-Bret(tn  shore,  and  is  built  on  the 
blul't's  over  a  snudi  harbor  in  which  is  a  (Jovernnieiit  wharfs  From  this 
point  the  Cape-Breton  mails  are  distributed  through  the  island  by  means 
of  the  stage-lines.  The  village  is  nnich  smaller  than  Port  llawkesbury,  and 
has  a  lucrative  country -trade,  besides  a  large  exportation  of  lish  and  cat- 
tle to  Newfoundland  and  the  United  States.  It  derives  its  chief  intere^-t 
from  being  the  point  where  the  Atlantic-Cable  Company  transfers  its  mes- 
sages, received  from  all  parts  of  ILurope  and  delivered  under  the  ^ea,  to 
the  Western  Union  Telegr.iph  Company,  by  which  the  tidings  are  sent 
away  through  tlie  Donunion  and  the  I'ldted  States.  The  telegraph-ofiicf 
i>  in  a  small  building  near  the  strait 
liute!. 


i  h 


The  Hastings  Hoiise  is  the  chief 


.'"J 


144      Rotde  33. 


CANSO. 


■>  \. 


Neaf-ly  opposite  Port  Hastings  is  the  bold  and  shaggy  headland  of  Cnpe 
Porcupine,  attaining  a  height  of  640  ft.,  and  contracting  the  strait  to  its 
narrowest  part.  The  stream  now  widens  slowly,  with  16-20  fathoms  of 
water,  and  at  its  N.  entrance  (\V.  side)  the  steamer  passes  a  I'ghthonse, 
which  sustains  a  powerful  fixed  white  light,  110  ft.  above  the  water,  and 
visible  from  Cape  St.  George  to  Tort  Hood. 

CatiPG  was  in  the  earlier  days  called  Cawpsenit,  or  Canspmi,  and  the  word  is 
derived  from  the  Indiiiii  ('(inisoJcp,  \vhi(  h  siirnities  "  tiicing  the  frowning  clifTs  "  It 
is  also  claimed  that  the  name  is  derived  from  the  Spanish  word  Ga)if:n,  sipnif^ing 
''^oo.-e,"  in  alhisiou  to  the  ^reat  tiocks  of  wild  geei-e  f-ometmies  t^ren  lure.  Heie 
tlie  Micniao  traditions  locate  the  miirvellous  transit  of  the  divine  Gluo.'diii  i.'^ee  |>fige 
lOH),  who  was  stoiJi>ed  by  theses  dec))  wate.-s  while  on  his  way  to  attack  a  mighty  wiz- 
ard in  Nc.vt'oundland.  He  summoned  from  the  sea  a  whale,  who  bore  him  across 
the  strait,  like  a  new  Arion,  and  landed  him  on  the  Breton  shores. 

For  many  sears  the  Strait  of  Can^o  was  called  the  /'a.vfl^r  rie  Froii;:,r,  on  nil  the 
old  Fiviicli  maps  and  charts,  in  honor  of  the  Sicur  d«  Fronsac,  tlie  idile  and  enter- 
pri"^!)'^  (ji')vernor  of  Cajie  Ureton  ;  and  in  Inls,  over  a  rentnry  1  (fore  Pl\  mouth  wis 
fuundt  d,  h  was  visited  hy  the  Uaron  de  Lery,  who  deigned  forn.iiig  a  fcttlenrcnt  nn 
th  .-liures,  and  left  a  considerahle  nnniher  of  swine  and  cattle  liere.  Sav;  n  vte 
f i .  ' 'Hted  tliis  vicinity,  for  the  juirposcs  of  fishii;jx.  from  the  y<ar  Ifjl'lj  :  an(i  in 
liiU-i  De  Monts  found  here  four  Bascjue  shijis  (from  St.  .lean  de  liiiz)  trading  with 
the  India  Tlu'te  .\ears  later  a  Dutch  ves.'-el  entered  ("an,-o,  and  e.Mitcd  the  terri- 

ble hosliliij  of  the  India  is  by  rilling  the  graves  of  their  dead  in  or^icr  to  strip  olf 
the  heaver-^kins  in  winch  the  ( orpscs  were  wrajiped  I'ontgrave  cruis-cd  about  thc?e 
waters  for  a  long  time,  protectii:g  tlie  ironoimlized  fur-trade. 

A  fortress  ami  rendezvous  for  tisliernien  \Nas  soon  estabii.'^hed  near  Cayie  CanFO,  at 
the  harl>or  of  Canso.  In  IfiSM  the  (  aiiso  station  and  the  sulentary  fisher}'  were 
plundered  by  an  exiieditioii  from  Boston,  consisting  of  a  crew  of  ^\est-lndian  pri- 
vateersmen.  They  entirid  these  waters  in  a  lU-gun  vessel  called  a  bdrrahniLa,  and 
carried  away  a  French  shiii  from  the  liailor.  After  the  conquest  of  Acadia,  the 
Kew-Kngland  fishi  rnien  occu)ricd  the  harl  fir  of  Canso,  and  erected  dwellings  and 
wareliou.ses.  In  Vt'M  the  settkments  wtre  attacked  at  night  by  powcrfnl  Indian 
bands,  and  completely  iilur.dercil,  though  most  cf  the  fislu'in.en  escaped  to  thv^ir 
vessels.  Tlioy  loaded  .Hveral  French  ve.-sels  with  the  jiroieeds  of  the  raid,  and  then 
retired  to  the  forest.  In  1722  the  Was.sicliusetts  fishing-vessels  were  captined  here  by 
the  Indians,  and  were  fallowed  by  arn.cd  vesfels  of  that  Province,  who  retook  them 
after  a  naval  battle.  II  M- S.  Siiiiini^l  .'■cized  soir.e  illegal  French  tratlcrs  here  in 
1718;  and  in  1724  a  ])rize-vessel  was  boarded  by  the  savages  in  the  Gut  of  Canso,  and 
all  its  crew  were  killcel  or  ca]itured.  Dniing  the  subseqiu  ut  juace  New  Fhigland  had 
1,500-  2,(00  men  here  in  the  fisluries,  antl  in  17o0,  4(i,(  00  quintals  of  dry  fish  were 
exported  hence.  When  the  war-clouds  were  lowering,  in  17)57,  the  British  had  100 
soldiers  in  garrison  here,  and  II.  M.  S.  Eltham  was  ktpt  in  the  Strait  as  a  guard- 
phip.  In  l'(44  M.  Dnvivier  attacked  C'anso  at  the  bead  of  670  n.cn,  Freneli  Aca- 
dians  and  Mien  acs,  and  soon  captured  and  destroxed  it.  In  1745  I'eppeiell  reached 
Canso  with  S  regiments  of  Massachusetts  troojis  and  Jsew-Ilampshire  and  Connecti- 
cut regiments,  and  here  he  ren-ained  for  sone  weeks,  drilling  his  ncii  and  erecting 
fortifications.  At  a  later  day  Coninrodore  Warren  arrived  here  with  the  British 
\Vest-lndian  fleet,  the  Superb,  60,  Lainiceaton.  40,  ISlerniaid,  40,  Ettltam,  and  other 
ships. 

The  Briti.'^h  war-vessel  Litth  Jack,  6  guns,  was  cruising  about  the  Strait  of  Canso  in 
1781,  when  slic  met  two  Marblehead  (irivatcers.  Securing  a  favorable  jiosition  near 
Petit  de  Cirat,  a  shore-battery  was  formed,  and  the  cutter  way  anchored  with  spiings 
on  her  cable.  Afier  a  sharp  action,  one  of  the  privateers  was  eripjiled  and  foic  c  d  to 
fiurrender,  and  the  o'.her  made  haste  to  escape.  The  Americans  were  paroled  at  Petit 
de  (irat,  and  the  vessel  was  taken  to  (Quebec. 

After  the  clo,-e  of  the  American  Hevoliition,  the  S.  end  of  the  Strait  of  Canso  was 
occujtied  by  a  cclony  of  Lcnalists  frc  ni  Florid.a,  who  suficred  terribly  from  the  com- 
parative inclemency  of  the  cliniate.  The  present  inhabitants  of  thoe  shores  are 
jnostly  of  Scottish  descent,  a  liardy  and  intrepid  people.  So  late  as  the  year  17S7 
thca-e  was  not  one  settler  on  the  Breton  side  of  the  strait,  and  the  iniuiigration  has 
Piostly  ceci'red  during  the  present  century. 


ARICHAT. 


Route  34.       1 45 


ill 


34.    Ahchat  and  Isle  Madame. 

A  mail-stago  runs  daily  from  Port  Hii\vkesl)ury  to  Ariclmt,  30  ^r.  S.  E., 
passinpj  near  the  sea-shoro  hamlets  of  Oaribacou  and  Lower  Hivcr  Inhab- 
itants, and  approaching  the  Scottish  village  of  Grand  Anse.  At  the  French 
fis!iiti<i;-settlement  of  Grand  Dujue^  the  pa>»senger  is  ferried  across  tlie 
Lsnnox  Passage,  a  long  ;ind  pictnrc^^que  strait  which  separates  \Aq 
Madame  from  the  Breton  shores.     Steamers  run  from  Halifax  to  Arichat. 

Isle  Madame  is  16  M.  in  length  from  E.  to  W.,  and  about  5  M.  in 
breadth.  Its  surface  is  very  irregular,  though  of  but  moderate  elevation, 
and  the  central  part  is  occupied  by  a  small  lake.  It  was  settled  over  a 
century  ago,  by  exiles  from  Acadia,  whose  descendants  now  occupy  the 
laud,  and  are  pious  Catholics  and  daring  seamen. 

In  1710  the  French  explorer  of  Isle  Madame  found  113  inhabitants  here,  "  who 
live  as  they  can,"  on  a  sterile  soil,  and  barely  maintained  by  some  [letty  fisheries. 
He  closes  his  account  by  sa\in^,  "  \Vc  quitted  this  country  with  no  regret,  except 
that  we  must  leave  there  so  many  miserable  people." 

Arichat  {Finlafs  lintel,  $  1.50  a  day),  the  capital  of  Richmond  County, 
is  the  most  important  tishing-station  between  Halifax  and  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland. It  has  over  1,000  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  of  Acadian- 
French  origin,  and  are  connected  in  some  way  with  the  sea.  The  fisheries 
of  which  this  port  is  the  centre  are  connected  with  the  great  establish- 
ments on  the  Isle  of  .Jersey  (in  the  English  Channel),  like  tliose  of  Cheti- 
camp,  Gaspe,  and  Faspebiac.  There  is  also  an  American  firm  located 
here,  engaged  in  the  canning  of  lobsters.  The  town  is  scattered  along  the 
steep  N.  shore  of  a  spacious  and  secure  harbor,  which  is  sheltered  by 
Jersevman  Island,  and  is  "  capable  of  containing  anv  immber  of  the  larirest 
ships."  The  spacious  Catholic  church  in  the  W.  jjart  of  the  town  is  pro- 
vided with  a  chime  of  bells,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  Coadjutor  Bishop  of 
Arichat,  whose  diocese  incliules  Cape  Breton  and  the  E.  counties  of  Nova 
Scotia.  It  is  claimed  that  "The  Sisters  of  the  Congregation  of  Notre 
Dame,  of  Montreal,  have  a  grand  and  ilom-ishing  academy  for  female  edu- 
cati(jn  of  the  highest  order  in  the  town  of  Arichat."  E.  of  the  cathedral  is 
;he  I'ichmond  County  Court-Housc,  sm-moimted  by  a  cupola.  There  are 
also  an  English  academy  an<l  an  Anglican  churcli  in  the  town.  On  the 
S.  \V.  is  seen  the  lighthouse,  bearing  a  fixed  red  light,  which  guides  mari- 
ners through  the  Grid  Passage  and  into  the  harbor. 

Arichat  has  bundant  boating  and  fishing  facilities.  The  favorite  drive 
is  the  troe-arched  (irandi(iue  lioad.  Gnnul  Lakt,  favored  by  picnics,  is 
surrounded  by  stattdy  forests.  The  Sea-View  and  Ocean  Houses  charge 
S-l  to  S7  a  week.     Steamboats  rtm  to  Arichat  from  Mulgrave. 

To  the  \V.  Little  Arichat  extends  along  the  coast,  with  1,000  French  in- 
habitants. E.  of  Arichat  is  the  Acadian  tishing-hamlet  of  Petit  de  Graf, 
with  2,000  inhabitants;  anci  D'Lscounse  is  anolher  place  of  similar  pursuits, 
across  the  Bar  of  H«)cks. 


♦       } 


f  ■■  ■  ' 
.      1 


■■■■  '.'.,'    /.- 
'     ,■•] .   'f  'I 


'ii'Vija 


140      lioxiteSS. 


ST.    PETER'S. 


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35.   The  Strait  of  Canso  to  Sydney,  C.  B. 

By  the  way  of  (he  lain?,  thrnnrjli  St  Pet €7'' 8. 

Tho  Roynl  mnil-stap-  leaves  Port  Tlawkoslmry  pvcry  niorninp;,  Fomo  time  nftcr  th« 
arrival  of'tlic  Aiitip)iiiHli  stap',  and  niiis  K.  aiiil  N.  K.  to  Sxtlne.v.  Fare,  li^f).  This 
is  one  of  tlie  ui'ist  arduous  routes  \>y  wliicli  S.\due>  eaii  be  apiiroaclied,  and  leads 
tiiroiigli  a  tliiidv  settled  and  ui  iiitt  n '^tin;J:  roniitry  until  St.  I'(  ter"s  is  reiched. 
Jleyond  that  iM>int  there  is  a  serit  s  ot'attiiictive  views  of  the  Great  Hras  d'Or  and  St. 
Aiidre\v"s  ChaUMel,  (  oiitiuuinii'  almost  to  S\dney. 

liiKtHlU'fM.  —  (I'ort  Ilastlnjrs  to  I'urt  nawkeshnry,  4- 5  IM  )  Port  Ilawkesbiiry 
to  Graud  Anse,  21  M.;   St.  Peter's,  35  ;  Ked  isliindi52;  Irish  Cove,  G4;   Sjduey, 

Tliero  is  but  little  to  iiitorost  tlio  trnvollor  diirinj]j  the  first  part  of  the 
Journey.  After  leuvinti'  I'ort  Hawkesbiirv,  tlie  stii<;0  enters  a  ruir^red  nud 
iniproniisiurr  country,  leaving;;  tlie  populous  shores  of  Canso  iind  pusliing 
E.  to  the  River  lnhal)ilants.  Crossinn;  that  stream  where  it  befrins  to  nar- 
row, the  road  contiinies  through  a  rcuion  of  low  bleak  hills,  with  occasional 
views,  to  the  r  ,  of  the  dcejier  coves  of  the  Lennox  I'assajre.  Before  noon 
it  reaches  the  nam  w  Ilaulover  Isthmus,  which  separates  St.  Peter's  Bay, 
on  the  Atlantic  side,  from  St.  Peter's  Inlet,  on  the  Bras  d'Orside.  At  tliis 
jio.ni  is  situated  the  village  of  St.  Peter's,  a  Scottish  settlement  near  the 
bay.  The  canal  which  has  been  constructed  here  to  open  comnumication 
between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Bras  d'Ur  is  J  M.  Ion;.;-,  2(i  ft.  wide,  and  13 
It.  deep,  and  is  expected  to  beef  nuich  benefit  to  the  Bras  d"()r  \illa!;es  It 
has  bt;en  linished  •ithin  a  fewyears,  and  |  ertains  to  the  Government, which 
takes  a  small  toll  from  the  vessels  passing  through.  S  K.  of  St.  Peter's 
arc  the  bUilY  heights  of  Mt.  (iranville.  and  to  the  N.  W.  are  the  uninhab- 
ited highlands  which  are  called  on  the  maps  the  Sporting  iMtg. 

St.  Peter's  >vas  foun<led  by  M.  Denys,  about  the  year  l()3f),  to  connnand  the  lower 
end  of  the  IJras  d"Or,  as  his  )i(,st  at  St.  Anne"s  eonuuanded  the  ufijier  end.  He  built 
a  portage-r<\-id  here,  ojiened  farm-lands,  and  erected  a  fort  which  mounted  s^everal 
cannon  'J"he  Indians  residing  on  the  most  remote  arms  of  tlie  Bras  d'Or  were  thus 
enabled  to  visit  and  earrv  tlieir  furs  and  lisli  to  either  one  of  Denys's  foits.  Denys 
himself,  touether  witli  the  fort,  the  shij),  and  all  other  property  here,  was  captured 
*;o()ti  after  by  a  naval  force  «ent  out  by  M.  le  Porgne.  Put  in  Itioti  Denys  retook  his 
jiosts,  guarded  by  a  charter  from  King  Louis.  A  few  years  later  St.  Peter's  was 
cnptnred  by  La  (!irau(li<  n-,  but  w.-is  afterwards  restored  to  Denys,  who,  however, 
abandoned  th  >  inland  about  ItlTO.  \vh(>n  all  his  bniidii  gs  at  this  post  were  destroyed 
by  tire.  In  1737  St.  Peter's  was  fortitied  b\  M,  de  St.  Ovide,  tlie  conimaiidaiit  at 
Louisbourg;  but  during  th^e  New-England  crusade  against  the  latter  city,  in  1745, 
it  was  captured  and  (ilundered  by  Col  Moulton's  Mas.sachusetts  regiment,  in  1752 
St.  Peter's  was  the  chief  depot  cf  tiie  fnr-'rade  with  tlie  Micniacs,  and  was  sur- 
rounded witli  fruitful  farms.  It  was  then  called  Pert.  Toulouse,  and  was  connected 
with  Lotiisbourg  by  a  military  road  IH  leagues  in  length,  constructed  l)y  the  Count 
de  Ilayniond.  Besides  the  garrison  of  Freiich  tro(i]>s,  there  was  a  (ivil  papulation 
of  23n  souls;  iind  in  UHn  Port  Tnulouse  bad  grown  to  be  a  laj'ger  town  than  eveu 
Loiiisbtiurg  itself.  The  King  of  France  afterwards  reprimanded  the  Count  de  Ray- 
mond for  constructing  his  militiiry  roi  d,  saying  that  it  would  atlbrd  the  English  au 
opportunity  to  attack  Louisbourg  on  i.iie  landward  s^de. 

From  the  Strait  of  Canso  to  Grand  River  the  coa.-r  is  occupied  by  a  line  of  humble 
and  retired  villages,  inna'Dited  'oy  Acadian-French  fishermen.  7-8  M.  S.  E  of  St, 
Peter's  are  the  L'Ariloise  settlements  (so  named  because  a  slate-quarry  was  once 
worked  here).    In  1750  there  was  a  large  French  village  here,  with  a  garrison  of 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


Ro\(U35.      147 


i»  nftrr  the 
?  T).  Tliis 
and  leadH 
■i  rcMcluMl. 
l)f  iind  St. 

isvkr.«1rury 

;  ''>3J"»''y. 

rt  of  the 
:r<r(.'(l  and 
1  pusliing 
IS  to  iiar- 
cctisioinil 
foTO  nooii 
er's  I'ay, 
.  At  tliis 
:  near  the 
limitation 
li'.  and  13 

a,i;'(!s  It 
'lit, which 
it.  I't'ter's 

uniiihab- 


[l  tbo  lower 
He  built 
ted  s-c'vtral 

wt'ic  tlius 
ts.     Di'iiys 

■;  cai)turcd 

retook  his 
\'tor"s  Mas 

,  liowover, 

■  (lestnned 
laiidaiit  at 

tv,  in  17-15, 

t'.     in  1752 

1  was  i-nr- 

coiiiiectod 

tiu'  Count 

p  ipu'.iitiou 

than  *'Vtu 

lit  dc  Uav- 

Eiiflii.^'h  au 

of  humhle 
S.  E  of  i*t. 

■  ^as  once 
{arriaon  of 


troops,  and  I/Ardoisc  was  the  chief  depot  of  tbi  fur-tra^le  with  tiie  Indians.  At 
Grand  Kivcr  tin-  character  of  tlio  population  -  .anges,  tliough  the  naineH  of  tlie  net- 
tlcnicnt  would  indicate,  were  history  silent,  tti.it  the  towns  be\oud  that  point  were 
originally  founded  l»y  the  French  They  an-  now  o(  cnpied  >'xciu.sively  liy  the  Scotch, 
wliose  ii;flit  vessels  put  out  t  .  the  liarl)ors  of  (irand  River,  t/An-'ievifjue,  St. 
Esprit,  lJianch(!rotte,  l-'ranihoise,  ■  iid  l-'ourchu,  on  wliicli  are  li.sliiug-villages. 

A  few  miles  X.  1].  <d"  St.  Peter's  the  .'*ta^e  crosses  the  Indian  Kescrva- 
tion  neir  Lotiis  Cove.  C/injJtl  Island  i.s  a  little  way  off  shore,  and  is  the 
liirjTost  of  the  group  of  islet.s  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  Inlet.  These 
islands  were  granted  by  the  governmont,  in  1702,  to  the  Micinac  chiefs 
15ask  and  Toniina,  for  the  use  of  their  tribe,  and  iiave  ever  since  been  re- 
tained by  their  descendants.  On  the  largest  island  is  a  Catholic  chapel 
where  all  the  Micmacs  of  Cape  Breton  gather,  on  the  festival  of  St.  Anne, 
every  year,  and  pass  several  days  in  religious  ceremonies  and  aboriginal 
gnnes.  Beyond  this  point  the  road  runs  N.  K.  between  Soldier's  Cove  and 
the  bold  highlands  on  the  r.  and  traverses  the  Red-Island  Settlement,  off 
which  are  the  Red  Islands. 

"  The  road  that  skirts  the  Arm  of  Gold  is  about  100  M.  in  length.  After  leaving 
Sydney  you  ride  hedde  the  Spanish  Uiver  a  short  distance,  until  you  come  to  the 
jtortfif^e   wliicli  .«ep;irates  it  I'roin  tlie  lake,  and  then  you  follow  the  delicious  curve 

of  tiie  i;reat  Ijench  until  you  arrive  at  St.  i'etor's There  is  not  a  lovelier  ride 

l)y  \vhire-pel)l>led  heacli  and  wi  le  stretch  of  wave.  Now  we  roll  aloiif;  amidst  pri- 
meval trees — not  the  everi^reens  of  the  .sea-coast,  but  laniiliar  -^rowtlis  of  maple, 
bceiMi,  birch,  and  larches,  juniper,  or  hackmatack, — iuiperlshr.ble  for  shipcraft ; 

now  we  cross  brid.^es,  ov(>r  sparkiinjjj  brooUs  alive  with  trout  and  salmon To 

liinjr  now  m  our  curricle,  upon  this  wooded  hill-rop,  overlooking  the  clear  surface 
of  the  lake,  with  leafy  island,  and  peninsula  dotted  in  its  depths,  in  all  its  native 
grace,  witho\it  a  touch  or  trace  of  liandiwork,  far  or  near,  save  and  except  a  single 
spot  of  sail  in  the  far-otf,  is  holy  aud  sublime.'"   (Cozze.ns.) 

About  10  M.  beyond  the  Red  Island  Settlonu'..t  is  the  way-office  and  vil- 
lage at  Irish  Cove,  whence  a  road  runs  10-- 12  ^i.  S.  E.  across  the  highlands 
to  the  Grand-River  Lake,  or  Loch  Lomond,  a  picturesque  sheet  of  water 
5-6  M.  long,  studded  with  islets  and  abounding  in  trout.  The  Scottish 
liamlets  of  Loch  Lomond  and  Lochside  are  on  its  shores;  and  on  the  N., 
imd  connected  by  a  narrow  strait,  is  Loch  Uist.  The  road  crosses  the 
lake  ;ind  descends  to  Framboise  Harbor,  on  the  Atlantic  cojist. 

N  of  Loch  Uist,  and  about  7  M  from  the  Bras  d'Or,  is  a  remarkable  saline  spring, 
cotit;iiiiing  in  each  gallon  343  grains  of  chloride  of  sodium,  308  of  chloride  of  cal- 
cium, ami !)  of  t!ie  chlorides  of  mignesiiim  and  pnta.ssium.  This  water  is  sing'darly 
free  from  sulphurous  contamination,  and  has  been  found  very  efficient  in  ca  es  of 
asMuiia,  rheumatism,  and  chronic  headache.  There  are  no  accouiniodatious  for 
vi.-irors. 

About  6  M  N.  W.  of  Irish  Cove  is  seen  Benacadie  Point,  at  the  entrance 
to  the  East  Bay,  a  picturesque  inlet  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  wliich  ascends  for 
1^-20  M.  to  rhe  N.  K.,  and  is  bordered  by  lines  of  bold  heights.  Near  its 
M.  shore  are  several  groups  of  i.-hiuds,  and  the  depth  of  the  bay  is  from 
b  to  32  fithoins.  The  stage  follows  it:-  -■-  to  the  upper  end.  Above 
Irish  Cove  tlie  roud  lies  between  the  brr,  ■  a  mountain  600  ft.  high,  be- 
yond which  is  Cape  Rhumore.  3-4  M,  fart"  u  m  is  Loch  an  Fad,  beyond 
which  a  roadside  chapel  is  seen,  and  the  ro.  d  pasoes  on  to  Edoobekuk^ 


u" 


I' 


ft   ,>(;■;' 


'  -wi 


T' .  'J 


p- 

\\-'l:. 


i  <■  < 


i( 


:i  ' 


M' 


148      Jimtte  S6. 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


between  the  heights  and  the  blue  water.  The  opposite  shore  (4  M.  dls- 
tant)  is  occupied  by  the  Indi....  ,  vnose  priucipal  vilhijje  is  called  Ksccwmi, 
and  is  situated  near  the  group  of  islands  in  Crane  Cove.  Thr  -y  now 
diminishes  to  2  M  i>.  width,  and  is  followed  to  its  .source  in  th  i,.;;oon  of 
Tweednojrie.  The  aggregate  number  of  inhabitants,  Scottish  andlndian, 
along  the  shores  of  the  Kast  Bay,  is  a  little  over  2,000,  The  stage  crosses 
the  narrow  isthmus  (4-5  M.),  and  then  follows  the  lino  of  the  Forks 
Lake  and  the  Spanish  River,  to  the  town  of  Sydney. 
Sydney,  see  page  150. 


36.  Halifax  to  Sydney,  Cape  Breton. 

By  the  Sea, 

There  are  several  routes  hy  sea  between  Halifax  and  Sydney,  the  fares  being 
ft  8-10.  The  tourist  should  send  u  note  to  the  steuniship-ageuts,  ut  Halil'ax  for  nar- 
tlcuiars  '        ^ 

Tlje  easiest  route  from  Boston  is  by  Pteamship  to  Port  Ilawliesbury,  on  the  Strait 
of  Cansi),  and  thence  up  the  Bras  d'Or. 

There  are  now  several  steamboats  plying  on  the  Bras  d'Or,  giving  the  best  of 
facilitit'S  (from  the  I'roviiK-ial  point  ot  view;  for  visiting  the  various  ports  and  villa- 
ges ol  this  lovely  iulaud  sea  (see  end  of  page  lOO). 

Halifax  Harbor,  see  tiuio  ^3. 

The  course  of  the  -  roans'iip  is  almost  always  within  sight  of  land,  a 
cold,  dark,  and  roc'  •Svjuiid  coast,  off  which  are  .submerged  ledges  on 
which  the  sea  breaks  intt  v.  hite  foam.  This  coast  is  described  in  Routes 
28  and  29;  but  of  its  aspect  from  the  sea  the  Editor  can  say  nothing,  as 
he  was  obliged  to  traverse  the  route  as  far  as  Canso  by  night. 

After  passing  the  bold  headland  of  Cape  Canso,  the  deep  bight  of  Ched- 
nbucto  Bay  is  seen  on  the  W.,  running  in  to  Guysborough  and  the  Strait 
of  Canso.  Between  Cape  Cause  and  Red  Po-nt,  on  Cape  Breton,  the  open- 
ing is  about  30  M.  wide,  inside  of  which  are  Isle  Madame  (Route  34)  and 
St.  Peter's  Bay.  The  course  of  the  vessni,  after  crossing  this  wide  open- 
ing, converges  toward  the  Breton  coast,  which  is,  however,  low  and  with- 
out character,  and  is  studded  with  white  fishing-hamlets.  St.  Esprit  is 
visible,  with  its  little  harbor  indenting  the  coast. 

About  the  middle  of  the  last  century  the  British  frigate  Tilbmy,  €A,  was  caught 
on  this  phore  during  a  lu'avy  gale  of  wind,  and  was  unahlo  to  work  off,  in  i-pito  of 
the  utmost  exertions  of  her  great  crow.  The  Tiibury  Bncks,  off  f?t  E;  pi  it,  still 
commemorate  tlic  place  where  she  finally  struck  and  went  to  jjieces.  2(_H)  s;,ilnrs 
vero  citlicr  drowned  or  killed  by  being  dashed  on  the  sharp  rocks,  and  2(1(1  nien  and 
1")  officers  were  saved  fiom  the  waves  by  the  French  people  of  St.  Esprit,  who  nour- 
ished and  sheltered  tliem  with  tender  care.  England  and  France  being  tlien  at  war, 
the  survivors  of  the  Ti/bi(ri/\s  crew  were  despatclied  to  France  as  prisoners,  on  the 
French  frigate  Hermione.  This  vessel  was,  however,  captured  in  the  English  Chan, 
nel,  and  the  sailors  were  released. 

Beyond  St.  Esprit  the  coves  of  Frambofse  and  Fourchu  make  in  from 


CAPE  BRETON. 


Route  3G.       149 


the  sea,  and  above  the  deep  iiiletof  diibarus  Baythe  lighthouse  of  Louis- 
boiirg  (see  Route  38)  may  porhaps  l)o  seen. 

Ill  17m  tin;  French  sliips  A'')//-c  fhiDif/'la  Ddlii'mnr^,  T.niits  Trnsm^,  and  Mnrquia 
d\tntin  sniU-il  t'roiii  ('iilliio  (I'itu),  witli  ii  vast  ninount  <>f  ti«Msiuv  on  lioiinl,  loii- 
co.ilcil  imiltT  a  .snrract'-car^ii  of  cocoa.  I'lic  two  latter  were  c;  |(tnreil  oil'  tlie  Azores 
by  tlic  Hritisli  privjitcers  /V/;j  r  Frf/^rirk:  and  l)iiki\  '  it  ilimnK  the  3  hours'  ai  tiou 
the  Notre  Diiinf  esca|ieil.  Not  diriiij^  to  approacli  t.i.  Kn'ticli  (•oa^t  wliile  so  many 
hosMU'  privateers  were  cniisinj^  ahoiit,  hIic  crowded  ill  sa,  and  bore  away  for  Louis- 
bimri^.     20  day«  later  sho  si_i;lito.l  Scalar  ,   mi   i'        '.net  fi-    '    lier  valuahl  i  cargo 


.  by  a  Uritish  fltet, 

i\ofrf.  Dn»io  was  Doa 

t  bore  in  ii>;ht  captivity 

k     !iout  Capo  Breton. 

I.     Ii iston,  mu\  C/irster, 

•,i*UO  was  found  on  the 


c»  were  captured  in  these 
tulv,  IToG,  the  I'rencii  vessels 
n.  M.  ships  (irnflton,  70,  Not- 


was  aire  idy  safe.     JUit  slio  was  met,  a  nliort     ,i«i 
and  became  a  prize.     Amoiij;  Mm  people   r   pUi 
Antonio  dUlloa,the  fimous  Spanish  scientist,      lo 
for  two  months,  and  who  afterwards  wrote  an  i 
Tiie  luclty  vessels  that  made  the  capture  were  ' 
and  their  crews  had  ;.;reat  prize-money, — foi 
Notre  Dame^  in  bars  and  ingots  of  gold  and  .«ilver. 

In  ITfifi  the  French  frigate  Arc-m-Cirl ,  oO,  and  the 
waters  by  II.  IJ  M.  sliips  Centurion  i\n(\.  Success.  In 
Hiros,  74,  lllustre,  ()4,  and  two  3  i-gun  frigites  met  il 

tinsham,  70,  and  tlu;  Juninica  sloop,  and  fought  from  mid-afternoon  till  dark  T lie 
action  was  indecisive,  and  each  lleet  claimed  that  the  other  stole  away  at  night. 
The  loss  of  men  on  both  sides  was  considerable 

In  .May,  174;-),  a  gallant  naval  action  wis  fought  hereabouts  between  the  French 
Hhip-of-the-line  Vl'jri'ant  and  Com.  Warren's  llect,  consisting  of  the  iSV/?- r6  (00-gun 
ship), and  the  Lniinrestnn,Mennnifl,iv\v\  E'thdin  40-gun  frigates)  The  Viiiilnnt\\'Si.3 
carrying  a  supply  of  military  goods  from  Urest  to  Louisiinurg,  and  met  the  Mr- 
mair/,  standing  otT  and  on  in  the  fog.  The  latter  made  ^ail  and  fled  toward  the 
squadron,  and  tlie  Vigilant  nwopt  on  in  the  fog  and  ran  into  tlie  midst  of  the 
British  tleet.  Warren's  ships  optMunI  fire  on  every  side,  Init  the  French  c;iptain, 
the  Mar(}uis  de  Maisoiiforto,  refused  to  slu•rend(^r,  thougii  his  docks  wore  covered 
with  stores  and  Iiis  lower  b:itteries  were  below  the  water-line  l)y  reason  fif  the  heavy 
cargo.  The  battle  was  terrific,  and  lasted  I'or  7  lioiirs,  whilt!  Maisonforte  kept  his 
colors  flying  and  tiis  cannon  roaring  until  all  his  rigging  was  cutawiiy  by  the  Ifritish 
shot,  the  rudder  was  broken,  the  forecastle  battered  to  pieces,  and  great  uunibera 
of  the  crew  wounded  or  dead. 

The  steamship  now  runs  out  to  round  Scatari,  travorsinfj  waters  which 
maintain  a  uniform  depth  of  over  30  fatlioms.  On  tlie  W.  is  the  promon- 
tory of  Cape  Breton,  from  wliicli  the  island  rceeives  its  name.  It  is  a  low 
headland,  off  which  is  the  dark  rock  of  Porto  Nuevo  Island. 

There  is  an  eld  French  tradition  to  the  effect  that  Verazzano,  the  eminent  Floren- 
tine navigator,  landed  near  Cape  Breton  on  his  last  voyage,  and  attempted  to  found 
a  fortified  .settlement.  But  being  suddenly  attacked  and  overpowere<l  bv  the  Indians, 
himself  and  all  his  crew  were  put  to  deitli  in  a  cruel  manner.  It  is  known  to  his- 
tory that  this  discoverer  was  never  heard  from  after  leaving  France  on  liis  last  voy- 
age (in  1.')2j). 

It  is  believed  that  Cape  Breton  was  first  visited  by  the  Mnric^ohl  (70  ton.e),  in 
l.')!i3  ;  whereof  it  is  written  ;  '•  Hero  diners  of  our  men  wont  on  land  vpon  the  very 
cajte,  where,  at  their  arriuall  they  found  the  spittes  of  oke  of  the  Sauages  which  had 
roasted  meate  a  little  before  And  as  they  viewed  the  countrey  they  .s:iw  diners 
beistes  and  foules,  as  blacko  foxes, deeres,  otters,  great  foules  with  redde  legges,  pen- 
guiiies,  and  certaine  others.''  Thence  the  Mnrii'nfrl  sailed  to  the  ,«ite  of  Louisbourg, 
where  lier  crew  luuled  to  get  water,  but  were  driven  olT shore  b\  the  Indians. 

The  cape  probably  owes  its  name  to  the  fact  of  its  being  visited  by  tlio  l?reton  and 
B  is(|ne  fishermen,  who  in  those  days  frequen cd  these  seas.  Cape  Breton  was  at 
thit  time  ;i  prosperous  commercial  city,  near  Bayonne,  in  the  South  of  France.  It 
was  fi-eqitbnted  by  the  Huguenots  about  this  time,  and  had  large  fleets  engaged  in 
the  fisheries.  By  the  changing  of  the  coarse  of  the  Adour  Biver,  and  the  drifting  of 
find  into  its  harbor,  its  maritime  importance  was  taken  away,  and  in  1841  it  had  but 
920  inhabitants.     (Dictmnnaire  Eiiri/clojieiirjne.) 

In  1629  Lurd  Ochiltree,  the  sou  of  the  Ikrl  of  ArraD,  came  out  with  60  coIODi.st3, 


'  '11  ^n 

■'ft 

■;  tii 

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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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150       Route  X. 


SYDNEY. 


and  founded  a  town  on  tho  harbor  of  Bnleine,  S.  E.  of  Cape  Breton.  The  hendftrong 
Scottish  iioMe  vas  arbitrary  in  his  dcalii>f,'s  with  tlie  French  fishermen  on  the  coast, 
and  was  poou  nttaiked  by  n  Mrnns  bo(h  of  Noniians.  Tlie  armor-clad  .*^cots  for  a 
time  defended  tiicir  fort  liravcly,  but  were  at  liist compelled  to  f^urnnuh'r.  and  were 
c;;rried  olf  i>s  iirii^oners,  iiicli;din;,'  Lord  Ochiltn c,  who  was  phmdcred  of  all  that  he 
possessed,  and  was  pent  to  Fnince  in  the  iiokl  of  tlie  llniit  Si   Andidv. 

In  \~i'J>  tlie  B'reiich  fri^jjate  Li  C/i(i»iKii(,  (iO,  was  wrecked  on  I'orto  Nnero  Island, 
and  all  on  board  were  lost.  Anonj;  tlu  s-e  nnfortr.ii'.te  people  were  M  dc  ('hazel, 
Jnteiidant  cf  Canada  ;  M  de  Louvifrny,  (jovernor  of  Trois  Rivieres,  nun.erous  other 
colonial  dignitaries,  and  fevernl  ecclesiastics.  "  This  nii> fortune  in  the  course  of  a 
filn.'^lc  niirlit  brcn'ght  more  priefand  loss  upon  the  French  colonies  than  they  had 
BUfiered  during  20  years  of  warfare."    (Charlevoix.  ) 

Ecatari  Island  is  about  5  M.  N.  F^.  of  Cape  Rreton,  and  lies  on  the  4Cth 
parallel  of  N.  latitude.  It  is  a  rock-l)nund  island,  8  by  4  M.  in  area,  and 
is  a  favorite  resort  of  sea-birds.  On  the  K.  point  is  a  powerful  revolving 
white  light,  and  on  the  W.  end  is  a  fixed  red  light.  The  Halifax  and  Syd- 
ney steamers  somctirnes  run  inside  of  Scatari,  through  the  Main-a-Dieu 
(orMenadou)  Passage,  near  the  obscure  fishing-hamlet  of  Main-a-Dieu. 
N.  and  W.  of  Scatari  is  the  wide,  deep,  and  unsheltered  Mira  Bay. 

Aftqr  crossing  the  broad  mouth  of  Mira  Bay,  the  shallower  bight  of  Co70 
Bay  is  seen  on  the  1.  Tlie  vessel  steams  to  the  N.,  by  the  darlc  and  rug- 
ged rock  of  Flint  Island,  and  then  runs  about  N.  W.  by  the  great  coal-dis- 
tricts of  Glace  Bay  and  Linrjan  (see  Route  37).  Rounding  the  lighthouse 
on  Low  Point  (or  Flat  Point),  she  ascends  Sydney  Harbor,  passing  the 
mines  and  villages  of  the  Victoria  Company  on  the  1.,  and  the  great  shafts 
and  works,  hamlets  and  churclies,  of  the  General  Mining  Association  on 
the  r.  After  running  by  the  lighthouse  on  the  S.  K.  Bar,  the  openirg  of 
the  W.  Arm  is  seen,  and  the  steamer  soon  reaches  her  wharf  at  Sydney. 


I  i. 


Sydney,  formerly  tho  capital  of  the  Island-Province  of  Cape  Breton, 
occupies  a  f  ivorable  position  on  one  of  the  finest  harbors  on  the  Atlantic 
coast,  and  is  the  chief  toAvn  of  the  island.  It  has  about  3,fi00  inhabitants, 
with  G  churches,  2  newspapers,  a  masonic  hall,  and  the  Court-House  of 
Cape  Breton  County.  The  principal  article  of  trade  is  coal,  of  which  vast 
quantities  arc  broucht  bv  railwavs  to  this  harbor,  whence  thev  are  sent 
away  on  vessels.  Cattle  and  provisions  arc  also  exported  from  this  point 
to  St.  Pierre  and  Newfoundland.  Near  the  water's  edge  is  a  white  build- 
ins,  surrounded  by  balconies  and  ad  joineil  by  a  broad  pier  and  a  flag-staff. 
This  little  estate  is  the  lieadquarters  of  the  Fre"ch  fleet  in  the  North  At- 
lantic, and  is  kept  with  true  man-of-war's-man's  neatness.  There  i'' 
usually  a  frigate  of  tliis  fleet  lying  oft'  the  village,  and  their  bands  fre- 
quently phiy  in  the  town.  There  is  a  pleasant  view  over  the  harbor  from 
the  old  fort  on  Barrack  Point. 

It  is  usually  said  of  a  fair  harbor  anywhere  in  the  Australian  *)r  Ameri- 
can colonies,  that  it  "is  capable  of  coitaining  the  whole  British  navy." 
This  remur'K  lias  been  made  concerning  Sydney  Harbor  by  the  best 
authority,   Capt.   Bayfield,  R.  N.,  the    marine  surveyor   who  made  the 


NORTH  SYDNEY. 


fiontp  m. 


151 


pasisinp;  the 


Admiralty  charts  for  the  British  North-American  coast.  Tlie  deep  water 
continues  al)ove  the  wharves,  and  as  far  up  as  Sydney  Bridge.  The  har- 
bor is  usually  ice-bound  during  the  winter,  from  ,)an.  1  to  April  1,  and  on 
this  account  is  less  valuable  than  others  more  to  the  S. 

Hotels.  —  .l/rs.  h'hu/'s;  Misn  IL'nni'if :  AfcKen-ae  Home;  Central;  AmeT' 
icdii ;  all  at  Sydney.     At  N.  Syduey  the  Vtndome  and  the  Jiclinniit. 

The  town  of  Sydney  is  not  attractive  in  its  external  aspects,  tliough  it  is  said  tiiat 
its  socii'ty  is  of  a  hi;^li  ordc-r  of  culture  and  exclusive  dignity.  It  possesses  many  of 
the  social  attriljutes  of  an  old  colonial  capital,  though  there  are  now  no  vestiges  of  ita 
former  position  save  the  deserted  barracks  and  decaying  batteries.  The  stranger  in 
Sydney  will  be  !tl)le  to  see  all  that  he  cares  to  of  the  town  in  less  than  an  hour,  for 
it  is  devoid  of  interest,  notwithstanding  the  prominent  position  which  it  holds  in 
the  worlil's  marine  intelligence  and  sliipping  news.  Sydney  is  750  M.  from  New 
York,  BOO  M  from  Boston,  240  M.  from  Halifax,  400  M.  from  St.  John's  (N.  F.), 
and  720  M.  from  Quebec. 

Railrnad-trains  run  frotn  Sydney  to  Lo  isbourg  (see  page  154)  ;  stages,  to  Lingan, 
Little  Glace  Kay,  and  Cow  Bay  ;  ferry-boats  to  N.  Sydney  ;  steamboats  to  Baddeck, 
the  Bras  d'Or,  and  the  Strait  of  Canso  ;  and  steamships  to  St.  John's  (Newfound- 
land), Halifax,  etc. 

There  are  several  small  hotels  and  boarding-houses  at  Sydney  and  N.  Sydney,  but 
tlic  large  and  comfortable  hotel  which  the  custom  of  the  ]oc;ility  seems  to  warrant 
hns  not  yet  been  built.  The  steamship  officers  can  recommend  the  best  sto^jpiiig- 
places. 

North  Sydney  is  0-8  :\[.  N.  W.  of  Sydney,  with  which  it  is  connected 
by  the  steam  ferry-boat  Lnrh/  of  the  Lake,  making  three  trips  daily.  It 
is  a  busy  and  dingy  little  place,  and  has  several  tanneries,  a  shoe-factory, 
and  the  shipping-depots  of  th.e  Sydney  cf»al-mines.  There  are  several 
taverns,  of  the  most  inferior  order.  The  marine-railway  at  this  point  was 
for  many  months  occupied  by  the  hulks  and  wrecked  vessels  which 
were  left  along  the  coast  after  the  Lord's-Day  Gale.  About  4  M.  N.  VV.  is 
the  French  Village  on  the  Little  Bras  d'Or;  and  a  road  runs  30  M.  S.  W. 
over  the  uninhabited  highlands  of  the  peninsula  of  St.  Andrews,  to  the 
Grand  Narrows,  on  the  Bras  d'Or  Lnke. 

The  harbor  of  Sydney  was  visited  in  1587  by  the  English  ship  Hnpfwdl,  which 
drove  out  a  Biscayan  vessel  and  plundered  all  the  fish-stages  along  the  sliore.  Many 
savages  here  visited  the  ship,  "  among  whom  was  their  king,  whose  name  wiis  Itary, 
and  their  queene,  to  wliom  also  we  gaue  co  its  and  kniues  and  other  tritles.  These 
Sauages  called  the  harborow  Cibo.  ]\\  this  place  are  the  greatest  multitude  of 
lobsters  that  euer  we  heard  of  ;  for  we  caught  at  one  hawle  with  a  little  draw 
net  abouel40. "  This  harbor  soon  received  the  name  of  Baie  des  Espagr^ols,  be- 
cause during  the  troublous  times  of  the  ll3th  century,  it  was  the  favorite  resort  of 
the  Spanish  fishermen,  as  Louisbourg  was  of  the  EngUsh,  and  St.  Anne's  of  the 
French. 

In  li596  the  French  frigates  UEiwipux  and  Profon/l,  commanded  by  the  valiant 
Iberville,  (entered  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  and  sunmioned  to  its  shores  the  Indian 
warriors  of  (.'ape  Breton.  A  cho.sen  force  of  Micmacs  were  soon  embarked,  and  then 
tliey  .sailed  away  to  the  destruction  of  l>ema<iuid.  This  was  also  the  station  of  the 
powerful  French  squadron  under  the  (Hievalier  du  Palais,  .\fter  Admiral  Walker's 
terribly  disastrous  voyage  in  the  (iulf  (in  1711),  the  remainder  of  his  fleet  was 
gathered  together  here,  and  it  is  .said  th.at  the  42  war-ves.«els  then  as.sembled  formed 
the  most  powerful  naval  armament  ever  se(!n  in  these  waters.  They  lay  in  the 
roiidstcad,  abreast  of  Lloyd's  Cov-o,  and  the  Aduiirai  had  the  following  pompous  In- 
scription erected  on  the  shore :  — 

^^  In  nomine  Patris,  Fil>i,et  Spirit '^is  Sanrti,  Amen.  Omnibus  in  Christi  Fideli- 
bus  Salutem.    Anna,  Dei  Gratiot,  Magn.  Britannia,  Francia,  et  Hibernia,  Regina; 


If  X\'' 

.if 


'te 


II 


152      Route  37.     THE  SYDNEY  COAL-FIELDS. 


* '    .■ 


Totiusque  AmericcR  Septenlrionalis  Domina,  Firfei  Defensor,  etc.  In  Cuius  harum 
insulnrinn  vule;o  Ca/ie  Breton,  Proprietatis  et  Dowinii  2'estimonium ,  ilor  Erexit 
Monumentxnn,  Sua>  Mnjestnth  iServus,  et  titibilitu.^  fi'lelissimus,  D.  Hovendfn 
WdLker,  E(jufS  Anratiti),  (hnniuni  in  America  Nniiut/i  Kei^aliimi,  Piafectus  et 
I'/ia  assiarrlia.     Monte  Seplnnbris,  Anno  Snliitis  MDCCXI." 

The  fir.Mf  civil  frovcrnor  of  Cupe  IJroton  alter  its  sevfraiico  from  Nova  Scotia  (1784) 
was  Major  Desbarr(?s,a  veteran  of  tlie  caiiiiiaijtiis  of  the  Mohawk  Valley,  Lake  Georpe, 
Tieouilern<j;a,  Louishoiirg,  ami  Quebec.  One  of  his  chief  steps  was  to  select  a  site  for 
the  new  capital  of  the  island,  and  the  location  chosen  was  the  peninsula  on  the  S. 
arm  of  the  capacious  harbor  called  Spanish  River.  The  seat  of  government  thus 
established  was  named  Sydney,  in  honor  of  Lord  Sydney,  Secretary  of  State  for  the 
Colonies,  who  had  erected  ('ape  Breton  into  a  separate  Province.  In  the  spring  of 
17H5  the  Loyalists  under  Abraham  Cuyler  (ex-Ma.\or  of  Albany,  N.  Y.)  came  from 
Louisbourg  to  Sydney,  cut  down  tlje  forests,  and  erected  buildings. 

In  1781  a  sharp  naval  battle  was  fought  off  Sydney  Harbor,  between  the  French 
frigates  VAstJce  and  V  Henrnone  (of  44  guns  each)  and  a  British  squadron  consist- 
ing of  the  Vliarlestown ,  28,  Allegianre,  16,  Vulture,  16,  Little  Jark.  6,  and  the  arn;ed 
transport  Vtrnon.  16  coal-ships  which  were  under  convoy  of  the  British  fleet  fled 
into  Sydney  harbor,  while  the  frigates  rapidly  overhauled  the  escort  and  brought  on 
a  general  engagement.  After  a  long  and  stubborn  action,  the  Little  /ar/t  surren- 
dered, and  tiie  remainder  of  the  fleet  would  have  shared  the  same  fate,  had  it  not 
been  for  the  approach  of  night,  under  whose  shelter  the  shattered  British  vessels 
bore  away  to  the  eastward  and  escaped.  They  had  lost  18  men  killed  and  28 
wouJided.  The  senior  captain  of  the  victorious  French  vessels  was  La  I'erouse,  who 
started  in  1788,  with  two  frigates,  on  a  voyage  of  discovery  around  the  world,  but 
was  lost,  with  all  his  equipage,  on  the  Isle  of  Vanikoro. 


r  ' 


37.  The  East  Coast  of  Cape  Breton.— The  Sydney  Coal- 

Fields. 

The  Sydney  Mines  are  on  the  N.  side  of  Sydney  Harbor,  and  are  con- 
nected with  N.  Sydney  by  a  coal-railway  and  also  by  a  stage  (fare, 
75c.).  They  are  on  the  level  land  inckided  between  the  .  .lIc  Bras  d'Or 
and  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  and  are  worked  by  the  General  Mining  Asso- 
ciation of  London.  Nearly  500  men  are  employed  in  the  pits,  and  the  vil- 
lage has  a  population  of  2,500. 

The  International  Mines  are  at  Bridgeport,  13  M.  N.  E.  of  Sydney,  and 
are  connected  with  that  harbor  by  a  railway  that  cost  $500,000.  The  sea- 
shore is  here  lined  with  rich  coal-deposits,  extending  from  Lingan  Harbor 
to  Sydney.  It  is  probable  that  the  submarine  mining,  which  has  already 
been  commenced,  will  follow  the  carboniferous  strata  far  beneath  the  sea. 

The  Victoria  Mines  are  W.  of  this  district,  and  near  Low  Point,  9  M. 
from  Sydney.  The  company  has  a  railway  which  extends  to  their  freight- 
ing station  on  Sydney  Harbor,  and  is  at  present  doing  a  prosperous  busi- 
ness. 

The  Lingan  Mines  are  near  Bridgeport,  and  are  reached  by  a  tri-weekly 
stage  from  Sydney  (15  M. :  fare,  $1.50).  Lingan  is  derived  from  the 
French  word  L'Indieime,  applying  to  the  same  place.  It  was  occupied 
and  fortified  by  the  British  early  in  the  18th  century,  and  a  garrison  of 
60  m.en  was  stationed  here  to  guard  tlie  coal-mines.  At  a  later  day  the 
French  army  at  Louisbourg  was  supplied  with  large  quantities  of  coal 
from  this  point,  and  several  cargoes  were  sent  away.    During  the  summer 


Cujus  harum 

,  tior  Erexit 

).    Horendtn 

Pi  (f  feet  us  et 

Scotia  (1784) 
Lake  Gt'orfjo, 
ilfct  a  site  for 
<ula  on  ttie  S. 
irnnieiit  thus 
Htate  for  the 
the  spring  of 
.)  caine  from 

jn  the  French 
idron  consist- 
nd  the  armed 
itish  fleet  fled 
id  brought  on 
<  Jack  purren- 
te,  had  it  not 
FJritiHh  vessels 
killed  and  28 
I'erouse,  who 
he  world,  but 


ley  Coal- 

nd  are  con- 
stage  (fare, 
e  Bras  d'Or 
iiiing  Asso- 
and  the  vil- 


)0 


ydney,  and 
The  sea- 
wan  Harbor 
has  ah'eady 
ath  the  cen. 
Point,  9  M. 
leir  freight- 
)erous  busi- 


a  tri-weekly 
d  from  the 
as  occupied 
garrison  of 
iter  day  mo 
ities  of  coal 
the  summer 


THE  SYDNEY  COAL-FIELDS.     Route  37.       153 

of  1752  the  mine  was  set  on  fire,  and  the  fort  and  buildings  were  all 
destroyed. 

The  Lit  fie  Glnce  Bay  Afines  are  18  M.  from  Sydney,  and  are  reached 
by  a  tri-weel\ly  stage  (faro,  $1).  They  arc  situated  on  Glace  Bay  and 
Glace  Cove,  and  about  Table  Head,  and  are  carried  on  by  a  Halifax  com- 
pany, which  employs  300  miners.  The  deposits  are  very  rich  along  th's 
shore,  and  extend  far  out  beneath  the  sea. 

The  Goiorie  and  Block-House  Mines  are  on  Cow  Bay,  and  are  among  the 
most  extensive  on  this  coast.  They  are  22  M.  from  Sydney,  and  are 
reached  by  a  tri-weekly  stage.  They  employ  over  600  men,  and  have 
formed  a  town  of  2,000  inhabitants.  Large  fleets  gather  in  the  bay  for 
the  transportation  of  the  coal  to  the  S.,  and  while  lying  here  are  in  con- 
siderable peril  during  the  prevalence  of  easterly  gales,  which  have  a  full 
sweep  into  the  roadstead.  Nearly  70  vessels  were  wrecked  here  during 
the  Lord's-Day  Gale,  and  the  shores  were  strewn  with  broken  hulks  and 
many  yet  sadder  relics  of  disaster.  The  S.  portal  of  the  bay  is  Cape 
Morien,  and  on  the  N.  is  Cape  Perry,  olF  which  is  the  sea-surrounded  Flint 
Island,  bearing  a  revolving  white  light. 

The  coal-bods  of  Cape  Breton  were  first  described  by  Denys,  in  1672,  and  from 
lt)77  to  1690  he  had  a  royalty  of  20  sous  per  ton  on  all  the  co  il  that  was  exported. 
Some  of  it  was  taken  to  France,  and  great  quantiti.-s  were  sent  into  New  England. 
In  1720  a  mine  was  opened  at  Cow  Bay,  whenc;  the  French  army  at  Louisbourg 
was  supplied,  and  numerous  cargoes  were  shipped  to  Bo.ston.  Between  1745  and 
1749  the  British  garrison  at  Louisbonrg  was  abundantly  supplied  with  fuel  from 
mine.*  at  Burnt  Head  and  Little  Bras  d'Or,  whi<'h  were  protected  against  the  Indians 
by  fortified  outposts.  The  .\bb^  Riynal  says  that  there  was  "  a  prodigious  demand 
for  Cape-Breton  coal  from  New  England  from  the  year  1745  to  1749.-'  But  this  trade 
was  soon  stopped  by  the  British  government,  and  only  enough  mining  was  done  to 
supply  the  troops  at  Louisbourg  and  Halifax.  The  "coal-smugglers"  still  carried 
on  a  lucrative  business,  slipping  quietly  into  the  harbors  and  mining  from  the  great 
seams  in  the  face  of  the  clitfs.  In  1785  the  Sydney  vein  was  opened  by  Gov.  Des- 
barres,  but  its  profitable  working  was  preventeil  by  heavy  royalties.  The  Imp^rial 
Government  then  assumed  the  control,  and  its  vessels  captured  many  of  the  light 
craft  of  the  smugglers.  In  1828  the  General  Mining  Association  was  formed  in  Lon- 
don, and  secured  the  privilege  of  the  mines  and  minerals  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Cape 
Breton  from  the  Duke  of  York,  to  whom  they  had  been  granted  by  King  George  IV. 
Under  the  energetic  management  of  the  Association  the  business  increased  rapidly, 
and  became  profitable.  Between  1827  and  1857  (inclusive),  1,931,634  tons  of  coal 
were  mined  in  Cape  Breton,  of  which  605,(X)8  tons  were  sent  to  the  United  States. 
Between  1857  and  1870  there  were  sold  at  the  mines  3,323,981  tons.  By  far  the 
greater  part  of  these  products  came  from  the  Sydney  field,  but  of  late  years  consid- 
erable exportations  are  being  made  from  the  mines  at  Glace  Bay,  Cow  Bay  (Block- 
House),  Gowrie,  and  Lingan.  'I'he  Caledonia,  Glace  Bay,  and  Block-House  coals  are 
used  for  making  gas  at  Boston  and  (-ambridge,  and  the  gas  of  New  York  is  made 
from  International,  Glace  Bay,  Caledonia,  and  Block-House  coals. 


"  In  travelling  from  Ilawkesbury  to  Port  Hood,  and  Baddeck  and  back  again,  by 
the  Bras  d'Or  Lakes,  one  traverses  a  country  in  some  places  thickly  settled,  but  all 
appireiitly  well  settled  by  a  race  of  men  physically  the  superior  of  any  other  on  the 
f ue  of  this  continent.  They  are  chiefly  of  Highland  Scotch  descent,  with  a  sprink- 
ling of  French  Canadians,  and  as  a  mutter  of  cour.-e  nearly  all  Roman  Catholics  iu 
their  religious  belief.  ,  .  The  Cape  Hretoaers  seem  to  be  very  prolific  in  the  propaga- 
tion of  their  species.  No  immigration  is  wanted  here  ;  only  give  them  time,  and 
they  will  compass  the  same  ends  themselves.  Nothing  under  ten  cliildren  is  consid- 
ered a  large  family,  and  those  who  fall  short  of  tuls  generally  couaidur  it  necessary 
to  explain  the  unusual  circumstance.'' 


V  l 


t 


■is 


■.  i,i 


■iii 

li 


II.  ^• 


154      Route  38. 


LOUISBOURG. 


'  f 


38.    The  Fortress  of  Louisbourfif. 

Louisbourg  is  reached  by  railway  (running  occasional  passengor-rur?) 
from  Sydney,  in  24  M.  A  roiul  runs  hence  15-18  M.  N.  K.  along  an  in- 
teresting coiist,  to  ('ftj)e  Breton  (see  page  141i),  passing  the  hamlets  of  Big 
and  Little  Loran,  "named  in  honor  of  tlie  liMughty  house  of  Lorraine." 
Caj)e  Breton  itself  is  nearly  insulated  by  the  deep  haven  of  Baleine  Cove, 
and  Just  off  its  S.  ])oint  is  the  rock  of  I'orto  Nuevo,  r'sing  boldly  from 
the  sea.  Beyond  the  cape  and  the  hamlet  of  Main-ii-Dieu  the  ^lira  Buy 
road  passes  the  hamlet  of  Ottahgne  (18  M.  from  Sydney),  at  the  outlet  of 
the  broad  lagoon  of  the  Catalogne  Lake,  and  follows  the  Mira  River  from 
the  villnge  of  Mira  Gut  to  the  drawbiidge  on  the  Louisbourg  road,  where 
the  farming  hamlet  of  Albert  Bridge  has  been  estnblished  (12  M.  from 
Sydney).  A  road  runs  hence  S.  W.  12-14  M.  to  Marion  Biidge.  a  Scot- 
tish settlement  near  the  long  and  narrow  Mira  Lake.  The  rotid  ascends 
thence  along  the  valley  of  the  Salmon  River  to  the  vlcinit}'  of  Loch  Uist 
and  IjiOch  Lomond  (see  page  147). 

Gabarus  Bay  is  8-10  M.  S.  VV.  of  Louisbourg,  and  is  a  deep  and  spa- 
cious but  poorly  sheltered  rondstead.  It  has  a  large  and  strnggling  fishing- 
settlement,  near  the  Gabarus,  Belfry,  and  Mira  Lakes. 

Louisbourg  at  present  consists  of  a  small  hamlet  occupied  by  fisher- 
men, whose  vessels  sail  hence  to  the  stormy  Grand  Banks.  The  adjacent 
country  is  hilly  and  unproductive,  and  contains  no  settlements.  The  hsir- 
bor  is  entered  through  a  passnge  10  fathoms  deep,  with  a  powerful  white 
light  on  the  N.  E.  headland,  and  is  a  cnpac'ous  basin  with  5-7  fathoms 
of  water,  well  sheltered  from  any  wind.  On  Point  Rochfort,  at  the  S.  W. 
side  of  the  harbor,  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  French  fortress  and  city. 

"  TJhe  ruins  of  the  onre  formidiible  b.itteries,  with  wide  broken  gaps  (blown  up 
by  gniipowdcr),  procMit  ii  inclancliDly  picture  of  past  euergj'  Tlie  strong  and  capa- 
cious magazine,  once  tlic  (icposit  of  innnense  quantities  of  munitions  of  war,  is  gtill 
nearly  entire,  biU.  liiddi  n  bv  t'le  accumulation  of  earth  and  turf,  now  affords  a  com- 
modious shelter  for  flocks  of  peaceful  sheej),  which  feed  around  tiie  burial-ground 
where  the  remains  of  many  a  gallant  Frenchman  and  patriotic  Briton  are  depofited  ; 
while  beneath  tlie  clear  cold  wave  may  be  seen  the  vast  sunken  sliips  of  war,  who.-e 
very  bulk  indicares  the  power  enjoyed  by  the  Gallic  nation  ere  Enifland  bccauie 
mistress  of  her  colonic^  on  the  shores  ot'tlio  Western  Atlantic.  Desolation  now  .«its 
with  a  ghastly  smile  around  the  o!ice  formidable  bastions.  All  is  silent  ex(  ept  tlie 
loud  reverberating  ocean,  as  it  rolls  its  tremendous  surges  along  the  I'ocky  beach,  or 
the  bleating  of  tlie  scattered  sheep,  as  with  tinkling  b-  lis  they  return  in  the  duiky 
politude  of  eve  to  tlieir  singular  folds."    (Montgomkkv  ISI  vutin.') 

"If  you  ever  visit  Louisbourg,  you  will  observe  a  patch  of  dark  greensward  on 
Point  llochfort,  —  the  site  of  the  old  Imrying-ground.  Heiieath  it  lie  tlu' ashes  of 
hundreils  of  br.-ive  New-Knglanders.  No  monument  marks  the  sacred  spot,  but  the 
waves  of  the  restless  ocean,  in  calm  or  storm,  sing  an  everlasting  requiem  over  the 
gi'aves  of  the  departed  heroes.*'   (R   Brown.) 

The  port  of  Louisbourg  was  called  from  tlie  earliest  times  Har-ie,  d  PAnsfo^s,  but 
no  important  settlements  were  made  here  until  after  the  surrender  of  Newfoundland 
unA  Acndi.a  to  Oreat  Britain,  by  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht.  Then  the  French  troops  and 
inliat>itants  evacuated  Placentia  (N.  F.)  and  came  to  this  place.  In  1714  M.  de  St. 
Ovide  de  Brouillan  whs  iTiade(iovernor  of  Louisbourg  ;  and  the  work  of  building  the 
fortress  was  begun  about  1720. 


THE  FORTRESS  OF  LOUISBOURG.     Route  3S.      155 


cnger-ouvp) 
long  an  in- 
ilets  of  Bis 

Lorrsiine." 
leine  Cove, 
joldly  frnin 
!  Miiii  Buy 
lie  outlet  of 

River  from 
foiid,  where 
;i2  M.  from 
d<je.  u  Scot- 
oad  ascends 
f  Loch  Uist 

ep  nnd  ppa- 
;ling  fishing- 

?d  by  fisher- 
riie  adjacent 
3.  The  har- 
werful  Avhite 

-  7  fathoms 
x\.  the  S.  W. 

and  city. 

ips  (blown  up 
•ong  iuul  caiia- 
of  war,  is  etill 
affords  a  coui- 
burial-groniid 
are  dcpo^itetl ; 
of  war,  who>e 
lillaud  liccaiiie 
latioii  now  s^its 
Mit  cx(C'i)t  the 
lick y  lieach ,  or 
II  in  tilt'  dufcky 

prcensward  on 
ie  the  ashe?  of 
d  sjiot,  but  the 
luiem  over  the 

PAnshis,  but 
Newfoundland 
•nrh  troops  and 
ilU  M.  de  St. 
of  building  the 


The  powerful  defences  of"  the  Dunkirk  of  America"  were  hurried  to  comp'otion, 
and  the  iwople  of  New  Rn^rland  "  looked  witli  ewe  upon  the  sombre  walls  of  Fiouis- 
hoin-ft  whose  towers  rose  like  jriants  above  tiie  northern  seas."  Over  8n,()(Mi,(  (i() 
Hvres  were  tlrawn  from  the  French  royal  treasury,  and  were  e.xi)ended  on  tiie  forti- 
fications of  LonishourL';  and  iiunienui-^  car^xots  of  biiildiii;r-stoiie  were  sent  hither 
from  France  (iis  if  (':ipe  IJreton  had  not  eiioujrli,  and  lirtie  else).  Fleets  of  New- 
Kngland  vesxds  hore  lundu'r  and  biicks  to  tin;  new  fortress;  and  the  .\eadi,ins  sent 
in  suiiplies  and  rattx'.  For  more  than  '20  years  the  French  governn  ent  devoted 
ad  its  ciiergv  and  resources  to  one  object,  —  the  coinplction  of  tiiese  fortilications. 
Inhaliirants  were  dra.vn  to  the  ida(e  In  bounties  ;  and  L()ui>boiU'g  soon  had  a  large 
trade  witli  Fr.ince,  New  Kngl.ind,  and  the  West  Indies. 

The  harbor  was  guarded  by  a  battery  of  30  28-i>ounders,  on  ("Jont  Island :  and  by 
the  Grand  (or  Royal)  Hattery,  whit  h  carried  30  heavy  guns  and  raked  the  entrance. 
On  the  landward  side  was  a  deep  moat  and  projecting  bastions  ;  and  the  great 
careening-dock  was  opjiosi^e.  The  land  and  harbor  sides  of  the  town  were  defended 
by  lines  of  rampart-  and  bastions,  on  which  80  gun.s  were  niounted;  and  the  West 
Gate  was  overlooked  by  a  battery  of  10  24-pounders.  The  Citadel  was  in  the  gorge 
of  the  King's  Bastion.  In  the  centre  of  the  city  were  the  stately  stone  church, 
nunnery,  and  hospital  of  St.  Jean  de  Uieu.  The  .streets  crossed  each  other  at 
right  angles,  and  conunnnicated  with  the  wlmrves  by  five  gates  in  the  harbor- 
ward  wall.  The  fortress  was  in  the  first  system  of  Vauban,  and  required  a  large 
gari'ison. 

Early  in  1745  the  Massachusetts  Legislature  determined  to  attack  Lonisbourg  with 
all  the  forces  of  the  Province  ;  and  tJov.  Shirley,  the  originator  of  the  enterprise, 
gave  the  military  connnanvl  to  Col  \Vm.  Pepiu'rell.  M.issachusetts  furnished  3,250 
men  ;  New  II  unpslure,  300  ;  and  Connecticut,  500  ;  and  George  Whitcfield  gave  the 
motto  for  the  army,  "  Nil  ilfsprrnntlum^  ('hris!o  </ii'p,"  thus  making  the  enteriJri.Mj 
a  sort  of  i'uritfin  crasale.  The  forces  were  joined  at  Canso  by  Connnodfire  W'arren'.s 
West-India  Meet,  and  a  landing  was  soon  elfected  in  (iabarus  Hay.  The  garrison  con- 
sisteil  of  750  French  veterans  and  1,500  militia,  and  the  as.sujlants  were  "4.000  un- 
disciplined nnlitia  or  volunteers,  olHcered  by  men  who  had,  with  one  or  t'.vo  excep- 
tions, never  seen  a  shot  fired  in  ang(;r  all  their  lives,  encamped  in  an  open  country, 
....  and  sadly  deficient  in  suitable  artillery."  The  storehouses  up  the  harbor 
wore  set  on  fire  by  Vaughan's  New-IIampsiiire  men  ;  and  tiie  l)lack  smoke  drove  down 
on  the  Grand  Battery,  so  greatly  alarming  its  g.inison  that  they  spiked  their  guns 
and  fled.  The  fort  was  occupied  by  the  Americans  and  soon  opened  on  the  ci^y. 
Fascine  batteries  were  erected  at  1,550  and  950  yards  from  the  West  Gate,  and  a 
breaching  battery  was  reared  at  niglit  within  250  yards  of  the  walls.  Amid  the  roar 
of  a  continual  bombardment,  the  g.irrison  made  sorties  by  sea  and  land;  and  1,500 
of  the  Anierirans  were  sick  or  wounded,  000  were  kept  out  in  the  country  watching 
the  hostile  Indians,  and  200  had  been  lost  in  a  disastrous  attempt  r,t  storming  the 
Island  Battery.  I'^arly  in  June,  the  guns  of  the  (."ircular  Battery  were  all  dis- 
mounted,  the  King's  Bastion  had  a  breach  24  feet  deep,  the  town  had  been  ruined 
by  a  rain  of  bombs  and  red-hot  balls,  and  the  Island  Battery  had  been  rendered  un- 
tenable by  the  American  cannonade.  On  the  15th  the  fleet  (consisting  of  the  Sii/jerb^ 
Sinvlerlanr/,  Camerbury,  and  Princess  J\I'iri/,  00  guns  each  :  and  tiie  Laiinre.s'nn, 
Chester,  Lark,  Mtrniaifl,  Hertor,  iind  E't/ia)7i,  nf  4')  guns  each)  was  drawn  up  oif 
the  harbor;  and  the  army  was  arrayed  "  to  march  with  drums  beating  and  colours 
flying  to  the  as.sault  of  the  West  Gate  "  But  Gov.  Duchanibon  saw  these  ominou.i 
preparations  and  surrendered  the  works,  to  avoid  unnecessary  carnage.  "  As  the 
troops,  entering  the  fortress,  beheld  the  strength  of  the  place,  their  hearts  for  the 
first  time  sank  within  them.  '  God  lias  gone  out  of  his  way,"  said  they,  'in  a  re- 
markable and  mo-it  miraculous  manner,  to  incline  the  hearts  of  the  French  to  give 
up  and  deliver  this  strong  city  into  our  hand.'  "  Pepperell  attribute  I  his  success, 
not  to  his  artillery  or  the  fleet  of  line-of-battle  ships,  but  to  the  prayers  of  New  Eng- 
land, daily  arising  from  every  village  in  behalf  of  the  absent  army.  •'  The  news  of 
this  importmt  victory  filleil  New  England  with  joy  and  F]urope  with  astonishment  " 
Boston  and  London  and  the  chief  to.vns  (d"  America  and  England  were  illuminated  ; 
the  batteries  of  Lomlon  Tower  fired  salutes;  and  King  George  II.  made  Pepperell  a 
baronet,  and  Warren  a  rear-admiral.     (For  the  naval  exploits,  .<ee  page  149.) 

4,130  French  people  were  sent  home  on  a  fleet  of  transports;  the  siege-batteHes 
were  levelled,  niul  '2  )0  guns  were  niountod  on  tiie  repaired  walls  :  and  in  the  follow- 
ing April  the  New-England  troops  were  relieved  by  two  regiments  from  Gibraltar, 
and  went  hoine,  having  lost  nearly  1,000  men.    The  historian  Sniollet  designated 


^ 
M 


mm 


156      Route  5S.     THE  FORTRESS  OF   LOUISBOURG. 


I  ! 


the  Capture  of  Loulsbourg,  "  the  most  important  achievement  of  the  war  of  1745  " ; 
and  the  authors  of  the  "  Universal  History  "  oonsiclend  it  "  an  equivalent  for  all 
the  successes  of  the  French  upon  the  (Jontinont.''  The  siege  is  minutely  de.-cribed 
(with  miips)  in  Hrown's  "  History  of  the  Island  of  (^ipe  Breton,"'  pap-s  ltW-248. 

"  That  a  colony  like  IMassuchusett''',  at  that  time  fur  from  iieing  riih  or  populous, 
should  display  such  rcmarkalile  military  spirit  and  enterprise,  aided  only  by  the 
flmallcr  Province  of  New  llamiisliire;  that  thcv  should  «'(iuip  hoth  laud  andi-ca  forces 
to  attack  a  redoui)table  fortress  called  Vty  British  olHcers  imi)reguai'le,  and  on  whicli 
the  French  t'rown  had  expended  innuense  sums  ;  .  .  .  .  tiiut  4,()()()  rustic  nulitia, 
whose  officers  were  as  inexperienced  in  war  as  their  men,  althouiih  suiiported  by 
naval  forces,  should  concjuer  the  regular  troops  of  the  greatest  military  power  of  the 
age,  and  wrest  from  their  hands  a  place  of  unusual  strength,  all  appear  little  short 
of  miracle.*'    (Bkamisu  Murdoch.) 

So  keenly  did  the  French  government  feel  the  loss  of  Louisbourg  that  tlie  grt-at 
French  Armada  was  sent  out  in  1746  to  retake  it  and  to  destroy  Boston.  After  the 
disastrous  failure  of  this  expedition  (see  page  99),  La  .lonquiere  was  despatched  with 
16  men-of-war  and  28  other  vessels,  on  the  same  errand,  but  was  attacked  by  the  fleets 
of  Anson  and  Warren  off  Cape  Finisterrc,  and  lost  9  ships  of  war,  4,000  men,  and 
S  8,000,000  worth  of  the  convoyed  cargoes.  In  1749  the  war  was  ended,  Louisbourg 
and  Cape  Breton  were  restored  to  France,  and  ''  after  four  years  of  warfare  in  all 
parts  of  the  world,  after  all  the  waste  of  blood  and  treasure,  the  war  ended  just 
where  it  began." 

When  war  brol<?>  out  again  between  Eng'and  and  France,  In  1755,  Louisbourg  was 
blockaded  by  the  fleet  of  Admiral  Boscawen.  England  soon  sent  11  line-of-battle 
ships,  A  squadron  of  frigates,  and  50  transports,  bearing  0,000  soldiers,  to  reduce  the 
fortress  ;  but  France  was  too  prompt  to  be  surprised,  and  held  it  with  17  sail  of  the 
line  and  10,000  men.  The  vast  English  fleet  got  within  2  M.  of  Louisbourg  and 
then  recoiled,  sailed  to  Halifax,  and  soon  broke  up,  sending  the  army  to  New  York 
and  the  ships  to  Fngland.  France  then  equijiped  fleets  at  Toulon  and  Roehfort,  to 
reinforce  Louisbourg :  but  the  Fovrlroymit/Si,  the  Orp/ieus,  64,  and  other  ves.scls 
were  captured.  Six  men-of-war  and  sixteen  transports  reached  Louisbourg,  with  a 
great  amount  of  military  supplies 

Great  Britain  now  fitted  out  an  immense  fleet  at  Spithead,  consisting  of  the 
Namur,  90  guns  ;  Iioi/a(  Willi(ini,HO  ;  /'riticess  Amflia,  80  ;  Tirrihle,  74  ;  the  Nort/i- 
vmbcriand,  Oxford,  Bitr/brd,  Vnus;iiartl^  SoDifrset,  and  Lancaster,  70  g.ins  each  ; 
the  Devonshire,  Bedford,  Captain,»wi\  Prince  Frederick, VA  each;  the  Pembroke, 
Kingston,  York,  Prince  of  Oranse,  Defiance,  and  Nottingham,  {3d  guns  each;  the 
Centurion  and  Sutherland,  50  each;  the  frigates  Juno,  Grammont,  Nightingale, 
Hunter,  Boreas,  Hmd,  Trent,  Port  Mahon,  Diana,  Shannon,  Kennington,  Scar- 
borough, Squirrel,  Hawk,  Beaver,  Tyloe,  and  Halifax;  and  the  fire-ships  Etna  and 
Lightning  There  were  also  118  tran.-ports,  can-ying  13.600  men,  in  17  regiments. 
Boscawen  commanded  the  fleet,  Amherst  the  army,  and  Wolfe  was  one  of  the  briga- 
diers. 

This  powerful  armament  soon  appeared  off  Louisbourg,  and  at  dawn  on  the  8th  of 
June,  1758,  the  British  troops  landed  atGabarus  Bay,  and  pushed  through  the  fatal 
Purf  of  Freshwater  Cove,  amid  the  hot  fire  of  the  French  shore-batteries.  After  losing 
110  men  they  carried  the  entrenchments  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  and  the  French 
fell  back  on  Louisbourg.  The  fortress  had  been  greatly  strengthened  since  the  siege 
of  1745,  and  wjis  defended  by  3,400  men  of  the  Artillery  and  the  regiments  of  Volon- 
taires  Etrangers,  Artois,  Bourgogne,  and  Cambise,  besides  large  bodies  of  militia  and 
Indians.  In  the  harbor  were  the  ships-of-war,  Pnuhnt,^'^;  Entreprenant,  74; 
Capricieux,  64;  Cilchre,^^^;  Bienfuisa7it,{]i\  Apollon,  bO  ;  Diane, 36;  Arithuse, 
S6;   Fidcle,Z(j\  Echo,  S2;  Biche,i6\  and  Chevre,16. 

Wolfe's  brigade  tlien  occupied  the  old  Lighthouse  Battery,  and  opened  fire  on  the 
fity,  the  French  fleet,  and  the  Island  Battery.  The  latter  was  soon  completely  de- 
stroyed by  Wolfe's  tremendous  cannonade;  and  since  the  harbor  was  t'n  ?  left 
imguarded,  Gov.  Drucour  .«ank  the  frigates  Diane,  Apollon,  Biche,  Fidel-,  and 
Chdvre  at  its  entrance.  Meantime  the  main  army  was  erect  ng  works  on  Green  Hill 
and  opposite  the  Queen's  and  Princess's  Bastions,  under  the  fire  of  tlie  French 
ram  jar  is  and  sliips,  and  annoyed  on  the  rear  by  the  Indians  During  a  bloody 
sortie  by  the  French,  the  Earl  of  Dundonald  and  many  of  the  Grenadiers  were 
killed  The  henvv  Ki<iffo-batteries  Were  advanced  ranidlv.  and  nourcd  in  a  crushins 
fire  ou  the  doomed  city,  destroying  the  Citadel,  the  West  Gate,  and  the  barracks. 
The  magazine  of  the  Entreprenant,  74,  blew  up,  and  the  Capricieux  and  Celebre, 


Hi 


THE  FORTRESS  OF  LOUISBOURG.     Route  38.       157 


f  1745  " ; 
lit  for  all 
(l('^c•ribl'll 
<-248. 
poimloiif, 
ly  by  the 
n'li  forces 
on  whit  h 
Ir  militia, 
ported  by 
\v(T  of  the 
ittle  short 

the  Rrcat 
After  the 
tched  with 
y  the  fleets 
men,  and 
L,ouisbourg 
•fare  in  nil 
ended  just 

sbourg  was 
iie-of-battle 
i  reduce  the 

sail  of  the 
Aiourg  and 

New  York 
loebfort,  to 
ther  vessels 


urg 


with  a 


ting  of  the 
;  the  North- 

ms  each  ; 

Pembroke, 

each ;  the 
Hi^htmgale, 

ton,  iSrnr- 
Etna  and 

regiments, 
the  briga- 

the  8th  of 
r\\  the  fatal 
[After  losing 

the  French 
Ice  the  siejje 
Its  of  A'olon- 

niilitiaand 
\enaiH,   74  ; 

i;  Aritliuse, 

fire  on  the 

fipletel"  de- 
s  tln>  left 
')ijvi- ,  and 
Itreen  Hill 

|the  French 
g  a  bloody 
diers  were 

|a  crushing 
barracks. 

|nd  Celcbre, 


catching  the  Are  in  their  pails,  wore  burned  at  their  moorings.  The  Arithuse  and 
Echo  ran  out  of  the  harbor  in  foggy  weather,  but  the  latter  was  captured.  Only 
two  French  frigates  reniaiued,  luid  these  were  both  captured  by  boats  from  the  fleet, 
after  a  daring  attack.  On  the  litJth  of  Jul^  the  Chevalier  de  Drucour  surrendered 
the  city,  with  bfi'-il  men,  23o  pieces  of  artillery,  and  immense  amounts  of  stores  and 
supplies.  The  French  had  lost  about  1,(100  men,  the  British  nearly  600,  during  the 
siege  ^ 

All  England  rang  with  the  tullnga  of  the  fall  of  "  the  Dunkirk  of  America,"  special 
prayers  and  thaiiks^rivings  were  read  in  all  the  churches  of  the  kingdom  ;  and  11 
sets  of  colors  from  Louisbourg  were  presented  to  the  King  at  Kensington  Palace, 
whence  they  were  borne  with  great  pomp  to  St.  Paul's  Cathedral.  Marine  insurance 
on  Anglo-American  vessels  fell  at  ouce  from  30  to  12  per  cent,  because  the  French 
privateers  were  driven  from  the  western  seas  by  the  closing  of  their  port  of  refuge. 

In  1759  the  great  fleet  and  army  of  Oen.  Wolfe  gathered  at  Louisbourg  and  sailed 
away  to  the  Conquest  of  Canada.  Halifax  was  a  fine  naval  station,  and  it  wa« 
deemed  inexpedient  to  maintain  a  costly  garrison  at  liOuisbourg ;  so  .sappers  and 
miners  wea*  .sent  there  in  the  summer  of  17(50,  and  "  in  the  short  space  of  six  months 
all  the  fortifications  and  public  buildings,  which  liad  cost  France  25  years  of  labor 
and  a  vast  amount  of  money,  were  utterly  demolished,  —  the  walls  and  glacis  levelled 
into  the  ditch,  — leaving,  in  fact,  nothing  to  mark  their  former  situation  but  heaps 
of  stones  and  rubbish.  Nothing  was  left  standing  but  the  private  houses,  which 
had  been  rent  and  shattered  during  the  siege,  the  ho.spital,  and  a  barrack  capable 

of  lodging  300  men All  the  artillery,  ammunition,  stores,  implements,  —  in 

short,  everything  of  the  slightest  value,  even  the  hewn  stones  which  had  decorated 
the  public  buildings,  were  transported  to  Halifax." 

The  British  garrison  was  withdrawn  in  17(58,  and  after  the  foundation  of  Sydney 
•'  the  most  splendid  towu  of  La  Nouvelle  France  "  was  completely  deserted  by  its 
people. 

During  some  years  past  a  scheme  has  been  agitated  who.'se  fulfilment  would 
restore  Louisbourg  to  more  than  Us  former  importance.  It  is  proposed  to  construct 
a  first-class  railway  from  tliis  point  to  some  station  on  the  Pictou  Branch  of  the 
Intercolonial  Railway,  crossing  the  Strait  of  ("anso  either  by  a  lofty  suspension- 
bridge  or  a  stoam  ferry-boat  on  which  the  tniins  would  be  carried.  It  is  thought 
that  the  freight  and  pissenger  receipts  from  the  coal-mines  and  tlie  settlements  on 
the  territory  traversed  would  more  than  defray  the  cost  of  construction  and  mainte- 
nance. The  projectors  then  intend  to  make  Louisbourg  a  port  of  cr ''  for  the  ocean- 
steamships,  for  who.se  use  this  safe  and  accessible  harbor  is  peculiar  •  lapted.  This 
port  is  on  the  (50th  parallel  of  \V.  longitude,  and  is  11  degrees  E.  of  Bos\  inand  14  de- 
grees E.  of  New  York,  or  so  much  farther  advanced  on  the  route  to  Europe.  When 
the  through  railway  is  completed  to  Boston,  Montreal,  and  New  York,  it  is  thought 
that  most  of  the  l)etter  class,  at  least,  of  transatlantic  travellers  would  prefer  to  save 
time  and  nearly  1,000  M  of  ocean-voyaging,  by  leaving  or  taking  tlie  steamship 
here.  Extensive  surveys  have  already  been  made  in  this  vicinity,  and  real  estate 
In  Louisbourg  has  rapidly  advanced  in  value. 


"  Baddeck  was  settled  by  Scotch  Royalists,  principally  fh)m  the  Highlaads  and  the 
Islands  of  Mull,  Lewis,  and  Skye.  The  people  are  proud  of  their  descent,  and  still 
keep  up  many  of  their  ancient  customs.  Gaelic  is  yet  the  common  language  among 
those  living  in  the  back  country,  and,  while  nearly  everybody  understands  it  to  some 
extent,  there  are  many  who  cannot  speak  English.  Every  Sunday  services  are  held 
in  Gaelic,  which  are  very  interesting,  —  the  singing  especially  is  wild  and  thrill- 
ing. Once  a  year  the  annual  '  Scotch  Gathering'  takes  place  at  Baddeck,  and  the 
various  clans  gather  in  all  their  forces,  and  for  one  day  the  quiet  little  village  is  full 
of  excitement.  I  he  sounds  of  the  fiddle  and  bagpipe  are  heard  in  every  direction, 
anil  on  wooden  platforms  the  lads  and  las.ses,  with  solemn  visages,  go  through  their 
flings  in  sets  of  four  or  eight.  .  .  .  The  people  raise  very  little  grain  or  corn,  but 
potatoes  thrive.  Strawberries  ripen  tiie  latter  part  of  July,  and  last  until  the  mid- 
dle of  August,  when  raspberries  take  their  place.  Some  years  they  have  very  good 
apples  in  the  last  of  September.  The  walks  and  drives  through  the  country  are  very 
interesting,  not  only  from  the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  but  also  for  the  insight  into 
the  quaint,  old-fashioned  homes  of  the  descendants  of  the  Highlanders.  They  show 
true  Scotch  hospitality,  will  not  take  pay  for  food  or  drink,  but  ask  you  in  theit 
houses,  and  say  '  plea-^e  yourself,  mon,'  with  everything  inside,  and  if  you  desire  to 
purchaae  anything  will  ask  five  times  its  value."    (Chancleb.) 


4>. 


W3 


ii 


158      Route  39. 


ST.   ANNE'S  BAY. 


^    ■ 


I 


\    If  1 


S9.   The  North  Shore  of  Cnpe  Breton.  ~  St  Anne's  Bay  and 

St.  Paurs  Island. 

• 

Convevftnces  mny  be  lured  at  Hnddcck  ((-oe  pnfro  162)  by  which  to  visit 
St.  Anne's  'Die  distance  is  about  10  M.  to  the  head  of  tlie  liarbor.  Tlie 
first  part  of  tlic  way  leads  along  the  shores  of  Raddeck  Hay,  with  the 
promontory  of  Ued  Head  over  the  water  to  the  r.  The  road  then  crosses  a 
cold  district  of  denuded  hiphlands,  and  descends  to  the  *  Valley  of  St.  Anne.. 
As  the  harl)or  is  approached,  the  traveller  can  see  the  amphitheatrical 
glens  in  which  the  great  Holy  Fairs  or  annual  religious  commnnioTis  of 
the  people  are  held.  These  quaint  Trcsbyterian  cainp-inoetings  are  said 
to  be  a  relic  of  the  ancient  churches  in  the  Scottish  Highlands.  The 
shores  of  the  harbor  M-ere  occupied  in  1820  by  immigrants  from  the  High- 
lands, who  are  now  well  located  on  comfortable  farms.  The  road  follows 
the  S.  Arm,  and  to  the  1.  is  seen  the  N.  Arm,  winding  away  amoi;g  the 
tall  mountains.  Just  E.  of  the  N.  Arm  is  St.  Anne's  Mt.  which  is  1,070  fr. 
high,  and  pushes  forward  cliHs  900  ft.  high  nearly  to  the  water's  edge. 

*'  There  is  no  ride  on  the  continent,  of  the  kind,  so  full  of  picturesque 
beauty  and  constant  surprises  as  this  around  the  indentations  of  St.  Anne's 
harbor.  High  bluffs,  bold  shores,  exquisite  sea-views,  mountainous  ranges, 
deliciojis  air,"  are  found  here  in  abundance.  AI)out  <)i)posite  the  light- 
house on  the  bar,  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  is  Old  Fort  Point,  on  which 
the  French  batteries  were  estiblished.  Near  this  point  is  the  hamlet  of 
Fnf/lishiotcn,  chiefly  interesting  as  containing  the  grave  of  the  once  famous 
"  Nova-Scotia  Giant."  The  mountains  back  of  Englishtown  are  over 
1,000  ft.  high,  and  run  N.  E.  to  Cape  Dauphin,  whence  they  repel  the  sea. 
Imrny^s  Sallin;j  Directions  states  that  "on  the  N.  side  the  land  is  very 
high,  and  ships-of-war  may  lie  so  near  the  shore  that  a  water-hose  may 
reach  the  fresh  water."  As  to  the  harbor,  the  ancient  description  of 
Charlevoix  still  holds  good:  — 

"  Port  Ste.  Anne,  as  already  stnted,  has  before  it  a  very  sure  roadstead  between 
the  Cibou  Islands.  The  port  is  almost  completely  closed  by  a  tongue  of  land,  leav- 
ing passago  for  only  a  single  ship.  This  port,  thus  closed,  is  nearly  two  leagues  in 
circuit,  and  is  oval  in  form.  Ships  can  everywhere  approach  the  land,  and  scarcely 
perceive  the  winds,  on  account  of  its  high  banlis  and  the  surrounding  mountains. 
....  The  fishing  is  very  abundant ;  great  quantities  of  good  wood  are  found  there, 
Buoh  as  maple,  beech,  wild  cherry,  and  especially  oaks  very  suitable  for  building 
and  masts,  being  28-38  ft  high;  marble  is  common  ;  most  of  the  land  good,  —  in 
Great  and  Little  Labrador,  which  are  only  a  league  and  a  half  off,  the  soil  is  very 
fertile,  and  it  can  contain  a  very  large  number  of  settlers." 

In  St.  Anne's  Bay  the  English  ship  Chnnrewftl  was  wrecked  in  1.597,  and  while 
she  lay  aground  "  there  came  aboord  many  shallops  with  store  of  French  men,  who 
robbed  and  spoyled  all  they  could  lay  their  hands  on,  pillaging  the  poore  men  euen 
to  their  very  shirts,  and  vsing  them  in  sauage  manner  ;  whereas  they  should  rather 
as  Christians  haue  aided  them  in  that  distresse."  lo  1629  this  harbor  was  occupied 
by  the  Grfat  St.  Andreiv  and  the  Marg^uerite,  armed  vessels  of  France,  whose  crews, 
together  with  their  English  prisoners,  constructed  a  fort  to  command  the  entrance. 
Itwas  armed  with  8  cannon,  1,800  pounds  of  powder,  pikes,  and  muskets,  and  was 
garrisoned  by  40  men.  The  commander  of  the  tleet  raised  the  arms  of  the  King  and 
of  Cardinal  Richelieu  over  its  walls,  and  erected  a  chapel,  for  whose  care  he  left  two 


IXGONISII. 


RnnlclO.        159 


ay  and 

1  to  visit 
or.    The 
with  the 
orosses  a 
»Sr  Anne.. 
tlieatrical 
unions  of 
,  nre  said 
ids.    The 
the  High- 
ad  follows 
imoiig  the 
is  1,070  ft. 
!*  edge, 
(icturesque 
St.  Anne'i^ 
ons  ranges, 
!  the  light- 
f,  on  which 
;  hamlet  of 
uce  famous 
n  are  over 
pel  the  sea. 
iind  is  very 
|r-hose  may 
;eription  of 


pead  between 
3f  land,  Icav- 
^o  leagues  in 
land  scarcely 

mountains. 
I  found  there, 

for  building 
Id  good,  — in 
lie  soil  is  Tcry 

J7,  and  while 
[ch  men,  who 
Tore  men  euen 
Ishould  rather 
[was  occupied 
J  whose  crews, 
Ithe  entrance. 
Ikets,  and  was 
[the  King  and 
re  he  left  two 


Jpsuitn.  Up  then  named  the  harbor  St.  Anne's.  Before  the  rlo,«e  of  tlmt  wlntMf 
UHire  thiiii  one  tliini  of  ili<>  troops  di«<l  of  the  scurvx ,  mid  ti)i>  coiiiniaiitliiiit  u.skmm* 
hiiiiifed  lii-t  licnN'iiaiit  on  tlie  p.iradt-grouiid.  In  Itl^U  the  .louit.s  fr)«mU'd  an  In- 
Uiiin  iiiis.sion  Ihtu,  Init  liot'.i  thi>  and  the  ;;:irri>on  wcrt- aftcrwiirds  wirhdniwn.  Some 
years  lahT  a  new  battery  and  .>«'ttl('iiuMit  were  fncti-il  licre  by  Nicholas  Denys,8ieur 
de  Kroiisac,  who  traded  hnicf  with  tlie  Indians  of  the  N   of  ("ape  Ihcmn. 

The  valley  of  tiie  N.  Ann  of  St.  AMhf's  wasgrant*^!,  in  171'!,  to  M.  ile  Houville, 
R  captain  in  the  infantry  of  France,  and  tirothtr  of  that  llcrtelde  Uouvillo  who  led 
the  forces  that  destroyed  Schenectady,  Deerfield,  and  Haverhill.  The  N.  Ann  was 
long  called  Kouvillc's  River.  At  a  later  day  t'ostahellc,  Heancourt,  Souhras,  and 
other  Frencli  otHcers  liad  fishini^-stations  on  tiu'  hay.  In  1715  a  frigite  from  Com. 
Warren's  tieet  (then  blockading  Louisbonig)  entered  the  iiarbor,  and  lU'stroyed  all 
the  i)ropcrty  on  it.s  shores.  St.  .Xniie's  Hay  was  afterwards  called  Port  iJiiii/i/iin  by 
the  French,  and  t\w  government  long  liesitated  as  to  whether  the  chief  fortress  of 
('ape  Breton  shonld  be  loeateil  hen*  or  at  Ivouisbonrg.  The  perfect  security  of  the 
hari)or  afforded  a  stro  ig  argument  in  favor  of  St.  Anne's,  and  it  .seemed  capable  of 
being  made  impregnable  at  sliglit  e.xpense.  .\fter  the  foundation  of  Louisbourg  1,000 
cords  of  wood  were  .sent  to  that  place  aiuiually  from  St.  Auuc's. 

The  road  from  the  Bras  d'Or  to  the  N.  shore  of  Cape  Breton  diverges 
from  the  .St.  Anne  road  before  reaching  the  harbor,  and  bears  to  the  N.  E., 
along  the  W.  Branch.  It  rounds  the  North -River  Valley  by  n  gretit  curve, 
and  then  sweci)s  up  the  harlior-shore  under  the  imposing  dills  of  St. 
Aiuie's  Mt.  From  St.  Aimo's  to  Ingonish  the  distance  is  about  40  M.,  by 
a  remarkably  picturesque  road  between  the  mountains  and  the  Atlunt  c, 
on  u  narrow  j)lain,  which  recalls  Byron's  lines:  — 

"  The  niniintiilna  look  on  Miirnthon, 
And  Muruthon  looks  on  the  sua. " 

"  Grand  and  very  befyitiful  are  the  rocky  gorges  and  ravines  which  furrow  the 

hills  and  precipices  between  St.  Anne's  and  Ingonish Equally  grand  and  pic- 

turesfjue  is  tlie  red  sycnitic  escarpment  of  Smoky  Cape,  capped  with  the  cloud 
from  which  it  derives  its  name,  with  many  .a  lofty  headland  in  the  liackground, 
and  the  p»'ak  of  the  Sugar-loaf  Mountain  just  peeping  above  the  far-distant  hori- 
zon." (Brown.) 

The  proud  headland  of  Cape  Smoky  (the  Cap  Enfum^  of  the  French)  is 
USO  ft.  high,  and  runs  sheer  ci<rvn  into  the  sea.  To  the  W.  there  are  peaks 
1,200-1,300  ft.  high;  and  a.^  the  road  bends  around  the  deep  bights  to  the 
^*.,  it  passes  under  summits  more  than  1,400  ft.  high.  Among  these  mas- 
sive hills,  and  facing  Cape  Smoky,  is  the  village  of  Ingonish,  inhabited  by 
Scottish  Catholic  fishermen,  800  of  whom  are  found  in  this  district.  On 
the  island  that  shelters  the  harbor  is  a  fixed  white  light,  237  ft.  above  the 
sea,  and  visible  for  15  M. 

Ingonish  was  one  of  the  early  stations  of  the  French.  Tn  1729  a  great  church  was 
built  here,  who.se  foundations  only  remain  now  ;  and  in  1849  a  church-bell. marked 
St.  Malo,  1729,  and  weighing  200  pounds,  wa.s  found  buried  in  the  sands  of  the 
beach.  The  settlement  here  was  probably  ruined  by  the  dr.iwing  away  of  its  people 
to  aid  in  holding  Louisbourg  against  the  Anglo-American  forces  In  1740  Ingoni.sh 
was  the  second  town  on  the  island,  and  its  Heet  caught  13,5t)0  quintals  of  fish.  It 
was  destroyed,  in  1745,  by  men-of-war  from  Com.  Warren's  fleet. 

The  highland  n^gion  back  of  Ingonisli  has  always  been  famous  for  its  abundance 
of  game,  especially  of  moose  and  caribou.  In  the  winter  of  1789  over  9,000  moo.-o 
were  killed  here  for  the  sake  of  their  skins,  which  brought  ten  shillings  each  ;  and 
for  many  years  this  wlioloHale  slaughter  vvent  on,  and  ves.sels  knew  when  tliey  were 
approaching  the  N.  sliore  of  Cape  Breton  by  the  odor  of  decaying  carcasses  which 
came  from  the  shor**.  Finally  the  outraged  laws  of  the  Province  were  vindicated  by 
the  occupatiou  of  lugouiou  by  a  body  of  troops,  wliode  duty  it  was  to  restraia  Hm 


m 


«f9 


tr*' 


V. 

VS. 


100       Route  ,10. 


ST.  PAUL'S  ISLAND. 


'  !i:  : 


im; 


moov-hnntcM  at  whafotcr  rn,«t.  Of  Into  yonrn  fhc  moo.«o  hnrc  >ppon  nrnrly  fXtPt* 
niirniNMl  by  rity  «|)ort.«m<'ii  ini'l  by  tin'  Iiiiliiin'^,  who  kill  tlu-m  wliiio  lirlplcscly  «'n- 
tiuixli'il  in  tlin  i|eo|)  XMovv-drirfs.  Tiio  srciiory  t)etw<'t'n  Hiiddcik  ami  lii(:onl.«h 
n^iMiihlfS  Mmt  of  tlu'  Nnrth  of  Scotliiiid,  but.  !•<  ovi'ii  moro  plciuruKqiio.  Many 
otnciTs  from  tliu  U.-ilifax  ({urriHon  liiivu  nought  Iti4  mooxc  and  trout. 

Tlio  lii^liway  oiids  at  Iriponi^li,  and  a  tiail  cn)sses  the  motintainn  to  the 
N.  N.  W.  to  A{</)y  Ihiy,  an  open  bight  of  tho  sea,  into  which  several  hirpe 
lagoons  empty.  A  specie-sliip  was  wrecked  oil' tills  hay  early  ir>  tho  pres- 
ent century,  and  for  many  years  coins  were  thrown  nshore  during  heavy 
storms.  In  1856  the  ttrst  Atlantic  Cable  wns  landed  here.  On  the  N.  W. 
shore  of  Aspy  Hay  is  the  lofty  Sugar-loaf  Mt.,  beyond  which  Cape  North 
runs  out  to  the  N.  E.,  1,000  ft.  high.  Cape  North  is  8  M.  S.  K.  by  K.  from 
Cape  St.  Lawrence,  and  between  those  two  point.?  is  tho  St.  Lawrence  lint/, 
on  whose  remote  shores  are  about  400  itdiabitants,  while  about  Cape  North 
are  nearly  800  more.  Between  Capo  North  and  Cape  Ray,  Newfoundland, 
the  distance  is  55  M.,  and  through  this  wide  strait  is  the  middle  entrance 

to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 
< 

St.  Paul's  Island. 

St.  Paul's  Island  is  13  M.  E.  N.  E.  of  Cape  Nortli,  and  is  a  vast  mass  of 
rock,  3  M,  long  and  1  M.  wide,  bearing  three  peaks  500  ft.  high,  sur- 
rounded by  tall  clitl's  which  reach  far  below  the  water,  and  indented  by 
the  Trinity  and  Atlantic  Coves.  The  cod,  mackerel,  and  seal  fisheries 
nround  the  island  are  very  vahuvble;  and  the  adjacent  waters  are  of  great 
depth,  and  form  a  constant  current  to  the  S.  E.  St.  Paul's  Island  has  9 
inhabitants;  a  fixed  white  light  (visible  for  20  M.)  on  the  N.  point;  a  pro- 
vision depot  for  wrecked  sailors  in  Trinity  Cove;  a  steam  fog-whistle  in 
Atlantic  Cove;  and  on  the  S.  point  a  revolving  white  light  of  the  first 
class,  visible  for  20  M. 

This  island  has  been  one  of  the  most  fatal  points  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  fitretching, 
as  it  does,  across  i^uch  an  important  route  of  niarine  travel.  Thousands  of  lives  have 
been  lost  here,  and  human  bones  formerly  strewed  the  beaches,  while  anchors, 
chains,  and  other  relics  of  disa.ster  were  found  in  the  neighboring  waters.  The 
Acadians  of  Cheticamp  used  to  visit  the  i.^land  every  spring,  in  order  to  secure  the 
valuable  parts  of  cargoes  and  wrecks  which  the  sea  threw  up  on  the  shore.  Among 
the  largest  of  the  ves.eels  lost  here  were  the  Horatio,  Canada,  Duncan,  Venus,  a 
transport  with  200  soldiers  (all  drowned),  the  orcan-steamshlp  Aoru-es;ia7i ,  and  the 
ship  Jd'f'ie.  Tlie  latter  was  wrecked  in  mid-winter,  and  80  of  her  people  were  lost ; 
but  11  reached  the  shore,  and  wandered  about  until  they  wen;  all  frozen  to  death. 
AVitli  the  present  system  of  lights,  whistles,  and  cannon,  most  of  the  danger  of  thus 
island  is  removed. 

"A  dome  of  inhospitable  rock  peers  through  the  mist,  one  of  nature's  peniten- 
tiaries, which  no  living  man  would  own,  and  so  has  been  deeded  to  St.  Paul :  Melita 
is  Eden  to  it.  The  saints,  it  ap])ears  to  me,  have  been  gifted  with  theruggedest  odds 
and  ends.  Wherever,  on  all  the!=e  cast-iron  shores,  there  is  a  flinty  promontory, 
upon  which  Prometheus  himself  would  have  shuddered  to  be  chained,  there  the 
name  of  an  apostle  has  been  transfixed.  Yonder  is  Cape  North,  the  stony  arrow- 
head of  Cape  Breton,  a  headland,  rather  a  multitudinous  group  of  mountain  head- 
lands, draped  with  gloomy  grandeur,  against  the  black  cliffs  of  which  the  surf  la 
now  firing  its  snowy  rockets All  in  all,  this  is  a  fine  termination  of  the  pic- 
turesque isle.  Steep  and  lofty,  its  summits  are  darkened  by  steepled  evergreens, and 
its  many  sides  gashed  with  horrid  fissures  and  ravines."    (L.  L.  Noble.) 


THK   nUAS   D'OH. 


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40.    The  Bras  dOr  Lakes.    {See  end  of  page  IGO.) 

Till  *' Iiihnul  /.V)i/'('"  hitii'icu  Sijiluiii  mill  Hii'ifnr.  There  are  fcrernl 
Kteimers  plyiim  on  thi'  Urax  d'Or,  miikltiij  d;iilv  trip^  id  siiinitirT.  Thev  lt'HT4'  Port 
MnUrave,  on  the  Sfniit  of  (3nnKo,  aftfr  tlic  arrival  of  the  Ilnlh'iix  loail-f rain,  and  rnn 
out  e.isrwiinl,  hy  Isle  .Mad:nne,  and  tip  St.  I'efcr'rt  May.  Traversing  the  nrenflv 
eoinitleted  8t.  IVterV  Canal  hy  St.  Pctt-r's  villMirc,  the  hoit^  desc<Mid  St  Peter's 
Inlet,  hv  ('hiipel  Island  and  tlie  Micniae  Indiati  Kr^crvation  (for  all  this  region,  neo 
p;igi'-i  14')  7),  and  nni  ont  into  thf  Ori'at  Hras  ilOr  Alter  visiting  the  varions 
portH  oil  the  lakes,  tliev  ronnd  Point  Ai'nni.  and  run  aronnd  to  Sydney  d.iilv  The 
agent  at  llalifiix  can  give  particular-*  of  snilings,  etc  The  constmctidn  of  the  rail- 
w.iy  frnn  New  (llasgow  to  the  Strait,  ami  nf  the  canal,  hiive  nuide  the  Hr.is  d'Or 
very  aceessil>le,  nnd  removed  the  trials  wliich  l\edged  ahont  this  ileli/htt'ul  trip 

Tlie  routes  taken  down  the  lakes  are  various.     We  give  the  old  route  of  the  Xep- 
<u;te,  although  the  usual  journey  now  Is  down  the  Great  Hras  d'Or. 

Alter  leaving  the  wharves  of  Sydney,  the  steamer  passes  up  to  N.  Syd- 
ney, where  she  makes  a  short  stop,  then  runs  to  the  X.  K.  out  of  Sydney 
Harbor,  with  the  shafts  and  villages  of  the  Sydney  Mines  on  the  ..  After 
rounding  Cranberry  Head  the  course  is  N.  VV.  for  8-9  M.,  in  the  ocean, 
passing  the  surf-beaten  Bird  Rock  on  the  1.,  while  the  stately  mountains 
towards  St.  Anne's  and  Ingonisii  (see  page  159)  are  seen  in  advance. 
When  within  2 --3  M.  of  Point  Aconi  the  vessel  turns  in  to  the  1.,  and  soon 
enters  the  strait  tilled  the  *  Little  Bras  d'Or,  a  narrow  and  river-like  pas- 
sage through  which  the  tide  sweeps  rapidly,  and  which  is  impassable  for 
large  craft.  The  water-view  is  sometimes  limited  to  a  few  score  feet,  so 
tortuous  and  landlocked  is  the  clninnel;  and  there  are  several  small  and 
picturesque  hamlets  on  the  shore,  mostly  inhabited  by  immigrants  from 
the  Hebrides. 

On  the  r.  side  of  the  channel  is  Boularderie  Island,  whi'h  is  about  35 
M.  long  by  2-8  M.  wide,  and  supports  a  small  farming  jiopulation.  In 
1713  this  rich  and  beautiful  island  was  griuited  by  the  French  Crown  to 
M.  de  la  Boularderie,  an  otHcer  of  the  French  navy,  who  had  greatly  dis- 
tinguished himself  in  the  defence  of  Port  Royal  and  of  Placentia.  It  is 
now  occupied  by  Highlanders,  who  number  about  1,300,  and  have  several 
small  hamlets.  On  the  N.  end  of  the  island  is  the  coal-field  of  Point  Aconi, 
which  has  not  been  ojjerated  for  several  years. 

The  *  Great  Bras  d'Or  is  the  channel  on  the  \V.  side  of  Boularderie,  and 
is  always  used  by  ships  and  large  coasters  bound  into  the  lakes.  It  lias 
from  5  to  38  fathonns  of  water,  and  is  much  grander  in  scenery  than  is  the 
E.  channel.  The  lake-steamers  usually  traverse  this  strait,  rounding  Point 
Aconi,  and  approaching  the  sea-re])elling  mountains  of  St.  Anne's  and 
Iiigonish.  On  the  N.  are  seen  the  Ciboux  Mandif,  sheltering  St.  Anne's 
Bay  (see  page  158),  and  marked  by  a  revolving  red-and-white  light,  which 
is  visible  for  14  M.  On  the  r.  the  dark  and  wind-swept  Cape  Dauphin  is 
approached,  terminating,  in  a  peak  1,045  ft=  higli,tho  massive  ridge  wliich 
occupies  the  peninsula  of  St.  Anne.  Beyond  the  lighthouse  on  Black  Rock 
Point  (1.  side),  the  ste  imer  passes  through  a  strait  ^  M.  wiile,  and  then 
enters  the  Great  Bras  d'Or,  which  is  1-3  M.  wide,  and  is  followed  to  the 


'1. '  *.' 


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m 


'1 1. 


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'1 


1G2      Route  40. 


BADDECK. 


a  I 


U'  i 


i 


: 


iill, 


1 

m 

1 

I 

1 

. 

t  .  -tf 

S.  W.  for  nojirly  30  M.,  between  the  mountains  of  St.  Anne  and  the  high- 
lands of  lioulanlerie. 

Tlie  Niptiinc  soon  traverses  the  narrow  channel  of  the  Little  Bras  d'Or 
and  enters  a  bros^der  bay.  Hey(>nd  (Jrove  Point  it  reaches  a  beautiful 
pound  which  is  followed  for  25  M.,  and  is  3-4  M.  wide,  (It  is  called  St. 
Andreir's  Clidrnnlou  tlie  Admiralty  charts,  but  that  name  is  elsewhere  ap- 
plied to  the  Kast  liay.)  Near  lieorge  Mt.,  on  the  1.,  are  the  low  shores  of 
Long  Island;  and  the  steamer  sometimes  stops  off  Beaver  Harbor,  or  Bois- 
dale.  The  course  is  now  laid  towards  the  W.  shore,  rounds  Kempt  Head, 
the  S.  extremity  of  Boularderie  Ishir.d,  and  passes  Coffin  Island  on  the  r., 
beyond  whi(di  is  seen  the  long  channel  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or.  The  course 
is  nearly  N.  W.,  and  lies  between  Bed  Point  (r.  side)  and  Macliay  I'oint  (1. 
side),  which  are  about  3  M.  apart.  In  front  is  seen  the  village  of  Baddeck, 
while  inside  of  the  points  Badileck  Bay  extends  to  the  r.  and  St.  Patrick's 
Cham  el  to  the  1. 

"Badieck  (Telegraph  House;  Loch  Rae  ffouse ;  McLean  House)  is  the 
capital  of  Victoria  County,  and  the  chief  vill;ige  on  the  Bras  d'Or.  It  has 
four  churches,  a  court-house,  and  a  government  building,  and  is  the  centre 
of  a  group  of  fariuing-settlements.  The  harbor  can  accounuodate  vessels  of 
500  tons,  and  from  this  point  several  cargoes  of  produce  are  annually  sent 
to  Xewfoundland. 

This  locality  was  first  visited  by  the  Frencli,  from  whom  it  received  the 
name  /kthque,  f^'mce  Scotticized  to  Baddtck (ixccent  on  the  last  syllable). 
It  was  first  settled  by  the  disbanded  soldiers  of  the  Boyal  Bangers,  and  in 
1793  there  were  10  inhabitants  here.  Near  the  village  are  the  summer- 
homes  of  Prof.  A.  G.  Bell,  of  Washington,  and  George  Kennau,  the  Sibe- 
•  riau  traveller. 

"  Although  it  was  Sunday,  I  could  not  but  notice  that  Baddeck  was  a  clcan- 
lookiu}?  villajio  of  wliitt'  wooden  liounes,  of  perhnjjs  7  800  inhahitants  ;  that  it 
stretched  aloiifr  tlie  shore  for  a  nnle  or  more,  strajrgling;  off  into  lami-houpes  at  each 
end,  lying  for  tlie  most  j)art  on  the  sloping  curve  of  the  biiy.  There  were  a  few 
country-looking  stores  and  shops,  and  on  the  shore  tliree  or  four  rather  decayed 
and  shaky  wharves  ran  into  the  water,  and  a  tew  scliooiiers  lay  at  anchor  near 
them  ;  and  the  usual  decaying  warehouses  leaned  about  the  docks.  A  peaceful  and 
perhai)s  a  tliriviug  place,  but  not  a  bustling  place 

"  Having  attributed  the  ([uiet  of  Baddeck  on  Sunday  to  religion,  we  did  not  know 
to  what  to  lay  the  quiet  on  Monday.  But  its  peacefulness  continued.  1  liave  no 
doubt  tliat  the  fanners  began  to  farm,  and  the  traders  to  trade,  and  the  sailors  to 
Bail  ;  but  the  tourist  felt  that  he  had  come  into  ,a  place  of  rest.  The  pronnse  of  the 
red  sky  the  evening  before  was  fulfilled  in  another  royal  day.  There  was  an  inspira- 
tion in  the  air  that  one  Ionics  for  rather  in  the  mountains  than  on  the  sea-coast,  it 
seemed  like  some  n<'\v  and  gentle  conijiound  of  sea-air  and  land-air,  which  was  the 
perfection  of  breatiiing  material.  Jn  tiiis  atmosphere,  wliicli  seems  to  How  over  all 
these  Atlantic  isl(>s  at  this  season,  one  emhires  a  great  deal  of  exercise  with  little 
fatigue;  or  he  is  content  to  sit  still  and  has  no  feeling  of  sluggishness.  Mere  living 
Is  a  kind  of  ha}>pine«s,  and  the  easy-going  traveller  is  satisfied  with  little  to  do  and 
less  to  see.     Ix^t  the  reader  not  understand  that  we  are  reconunending  him  to  go  to 

BaiMeek.     Vav  from  it T!ii  re  stre  fcsv  v.hom  it  would  p.-.y  to  go  a  th.ousand 

miles  for  the  sake  of  sitting  on  the  dock  at  Baddeck  when  the  sun  goes  down,  and 
watcliing  the  purple  lights  on  the  islands  and  the  distant  hills,  the  red  flush  on  the 
horizon  and  on  the  lake,  and  the  creeping  on  of  gray  twilight.  You  can  ."^ee  all  this 
as  well  elsewhere ?  I  am  not  so  sure.  There  is  n  harmonv  of  beauty  about  the 
Bras  dOr  at  Baddeck  which  is  lacking  in  many  scenes  of  more  pretension." 
(CuABLi^s  Dudley  Warner's  Baddeck;  and  that  Sort  of  Tking.) 


BADDECK. 


Route  40.       1G3 


Tl\e  tourist  who  stops  at  Baddeck  should  visit  the  Indian  village  which 
occtip  es  a  grassy  point  near  the  town.  It  pertains  to  one  of  the  clans  of 
the  \liemac  tribe,  and  usually  has  12-15  wigwams.  Visitors  are  received 
with  a  not  unkindly  inditftirence,  and  may  here  study  Indian  domestic 
life,  ttie  curious  manner  of  carrying  babies,  and  the  architecture  of  the 
wigvam.  Some  of  the  people  can  talk  English.  The  visitor  should  en- 
de  Ivor  to  see  one  of  the  Micmac  Catholic  prayer-books,  printed  (at  Vienna) 
in  a  5>ingular  hieroglyphic,  and  bought  by  the  Indians  at  the  Trappist  nion- 
astei-y  in  Tracadie.  The  camp  at  Baddeck  is  broken  up  in  the  autumn 
.iiifl  the  people  retire  to  tl»eir  reservations  near  the  hunting-grounds. 

The  Micniaca  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Cape  Urcton  still  retain  many  of  their  ancient 
«nstoins,  and  arc  of  purer  blood  than  any  otlier  tribe  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  They 
lumber  about  1,600  (and  1,400  in  New  Brunswick),  and  occupy  several  revservations 
it  the  Province,  where  they  are  cared  for  and  protected  by  the  Dominion  govern- 
n«!nt.  Under  this  psiternal  care  (stronsrly  contrasting  with  tlie  Indian  policy  of  the 
United  Statt^s)  the  aborigines  are  ste..','ily  increasing  in  numbers  and  approaching  a 
better  standard  of  civilization,  and  cre  loyal  and  useful  subjects  of  their  "  great 
ni»tlier,"  Queen  Victoria.  The  discipii;.e  of  families  is  well  preserved  by  the  use  of 
cocporcal  punishment.  VV^arm  parental  affection  is  a  strongly  marked  feature,  and 
ths  subordination  of  the  women  is  still  maintained,  though  ameliorated  by  tiie  in- 
Ihi'ncesof  civiliztition.  The  Micmacs  have  exchanged  their  former  belief  in  and 
w(rship  of  the  hostile  principles  of  good  and  (;vil  for  the  creed  of  the  lioman  Catb- 
oil."  Church,  of  wliich  tliey  are  devout  communicants. 

riu'ir  language  has  many  curious  verbal  coincidences  with  that  of  the  Gaelic  race, 
and  is  saiil  to  be  "  copious,  tiexible,  and  expressive  ''  Philologists  liave  al.so  traced 
a  narked  analogy  between  the  Greek  and  Micmac  languages,  basing  thereon  a  sharp 
rciukc  to  llenan's  tiippant  attack  on  the  aboriginal  tongues  of  America. 

Baddeck  to  Wliycocomagh,  see  Route  41.  Baddeck  to  St.  Anne's  Bay, 
see  Ko\ite  39.  A  road  runs  from  this  point  nearly  N.  for  10  M.  to  the 
f«Tks  of  the  Big  Baddeck  River,  where  trout  are  found.  To  the  N.  are 
(lie  Baddeck  Mts.,  an  unexplored  and  savage  highland  region  which  ex- 
tends for  100  M.  to  the  N.,  as  far  as  Cape  North,  witii  a  breadth  of  15-25 
M.  This  mountain-region  ban  been  a  lavorite  hunting-ground  for  moose 
and  caribou,  which  are  now  carefully  preserved  by  Provincial  game-laws; 
and  it  also  contains  bears,  wolves  and  foxes,  rabbits  and  hares,  beaver, 
mink,  and  muskrats. 

The  Baddeck  Falls,  on  the  north  fork  of  the  Big  Baddeck  River,  reached 
by  a  pleasant  drive  of  about  10  M.,  are  very  beautiful,  and  have  been  com- 
pared with  the  Crystal  Cascade  in  the  White  Mts.  The}'  are  situated  in  a 
narrow  gorge,  whose  precipitous  sides  are  high  enough  to  give  an  idea  of 
grandeur  as  weli  as  picturesqueness. 

The  Margaree  River  may  be  reached  from  Baddeck  (in  28  M.)  by  a 
picturesque  road,  ascending  the  long  valley,  and  crossing  the  Hunter's 
Mt.,  with  fine  views  over  the  Bras  d'Or.  The  pleasant  rural  district  of 
tlio  Mildle  Valley  is  then  traversed,  and  the  road  leads  through  a  remark- 
able piiss  of  the  hills  and  enters  the  rich  valley  of  the  Margaree,  famous 
I'^ir  its  ii.^liiiig  (see  Route  42).  Visitors  to  tiiis  district  usually  board  ill 
the  farm-houses,  where  plain  and  substantial  fare  is  given. 

The  Middle  River  lies  to  the  W.  of  Haddeck,  and  is  approached  by  the  Whyco- 
couuigh  road  (Route  41).  'J'lie  valley  has  over  1,0  0  inhnbitants,  of  Gaelic  Iligh- 
lainl  race,  many  of  whom  are  unajcquainted  with  tne  Eugli.'.h  language.  Near  their 
Fe'tlements  aie  prolific  trout-streams,  where  fine  sport  may  be  enjoyed  in  tlie  early 
Punui ■•^v.  TVi<>  chii  f  ypttli'nients  are  respectively  1'2,  l.S,  and  IG  M.  from  Baddeck, 
aad  near  the  bead  of  the  ri>er  is  au  uuduveioped  gold  diatrict.    A  few  miles  up  thif 


.  HI 


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■'■    i^' 

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■'■I 

'rM 

I.JV. 


Am 


164      Haute  40. 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


l> 


river  Is  "  a  Gaelic  settlement  of  farmers.  The  river  here  flows  through  lovely  mead- 
ows, sandy,  fertile,  and  sheltered  by  hills,  —  a  green  Eden,  one  of  the  few  peatuful 
Inhabited  spots  in  the  world.  I  t  luild  conceive  of  no  news  coming  to  these  liigh- 
landers  later  than  the  defeat  of  the  Pretender." 

In  1801  the  total  population  of  the  Island  of  Cape.Breton  was  2,513,  including 
Englishmen,  Acadians,  and  Micniacs.  Tn  1802  the  first  emigrant-ship  arriwd  at 
Sydney  from  Scotland,  and  since  that  tinwi  over  25,000  Scottish  immigrants  have 
landed  and  settled  on  this  island.  Tliey  rai)idly  spread  over  the  W.  coast  and  occu- 
pied the  shores  of  tlie  Mras  d'Or  and  its  connected  waters,  and  Cape  Breton  is  now, 
and  probably  will  ever  be,  a  Scottish  land.  After  the  dispersal  of  the  Highland  clans 
and  the  final  pacification  of  Northern  Scotland,  the  chieftains  and  nobles  found  it 
more  profitable  to  devote  their  estates  to  cattle-raising  than  to  maintain  the  old  ten- 
antry system.  So  thousands  of  poor  tenant-farmers  were  expelled  from  their  Hold- 
ings and  their  ancient  homes  to  make  room  for  deer-parks  or  shtvp-farms  among 
the  glens.  Driven  forth  against  their  will,  they  cro.s,-ed  the  Atlantic  to  settle  on 
the  New-World  shores,  in  a  fairer  but  less  honored  land.  The  selfish  policy  of  the 
powerful  nobles  depopulated  broad  districts  of  the  Highlands.  "  Many  who  hau 
flriends  in  the  colonies,  and  knew  what  they  had  to  expect,  emigrated  witii  great 
alacrity  ;  but  thou.sands,  who  had  no  such  desire,  on  the  contrary  the  greatest 
repugnance  to  leave  the  land  of  their  fathers,  the  familiar  hills,  and  the  greai 
slopes  of  Lochaber,  were  heart-broken  at  the  idea  of  being  separated  from  them  iy 
a  thousand  leagues  of  raging  sea."  This  hardy  rural  population  is  peculiarly  adaptid 
to  develop  a  new  country  like  Cape  Breton,  and  can  also  endure  the  great  fluctu- 
ations pf  the  climate,  which  range  from  32^  below  zero  to  96°  above.  The  descerd- 
ants  of  these  immigrants  are  superior  to  the  native  Highlanders,  both  phys-icaily 
and  mentally,  and  pay  more  attention  to  the  education  of  their  children  and  to  the 
general  estate  of  the  nation. 

On  leaving  Baddeck  the  steamer  rnns  out  around  Mackny's  Point,  aid 
ascends  the  *  Little  Bras  cV  Or  Lake,  to  the  S.  W.  This  slieet  of  water  is 
5-6  M.  wide,  and  is  bordered  on  the  E.  by  the  peninsula  of  St.  Andrew 
and  the  hills  back  of  Sunacadie  and  Christmas  Island,  and  on  the  W.  ay 
the  highlands  of  the  Watchabaktchkt  peninsula. 

"  The  most  electric  American,  heir  of  all  the  nervous  diseases  of  all  the 
ages,  could  not  but  find  peace  in  this  scene  of  tranquil  beaut}',  and  sail 
on  into  a  great  and  deepening  contentment.  Would  the  voyage  could  last 
for  an  age,  with  the  same  sparkling  but  tranquil  sea,  and  the  same  en- 
vironment of  hills,  near  and  remote.  The  hills  approached  and  fell  away 
in  lines  of  undulating  grace,  draped  with  a  tender  color  which  lielped  to 
carry  the  imagination  beyond  the  earth. 

"  Certainly,  as  we  glided  out  upon  the  summer  waters  and  began  to 
get  the  graceful  outline  of  the  widening  shores,  it  seemed  as  if  we  had 

taken  passage  to  the  Fortunate  Isles It  was  enough  to  sit  on  deck 

forward  of  the  wheel-house,  and  absorb,  by  all  the  senses,  the  delicious 
day.  With  such  weather  perpetual  and  such  scenery  always  present,  sin  in 
this  world  would  soon  become  an  impossibility."   (Warner's  Baddeck.) 

12-15  M.  from  Baddeck  is  the  *  Strait  of  Barra  (or  Grand  Narrows), 
so  named  because  the  inhabitants  of  the  adjacent  shores  came  from  the 
island  of  Barra,  in  the  Hebrides.  The  strait  is  picturesque,  and  is  2  M. 
long  and  1  M.  wide.  On  the  shore  are  a  conspicuous  Catholic  church  and 
a  liglitliouse;  and  tlie  inluibitants  are  nearly  xu\  Campbells  and  ivicNeils. 

The  steamer  now  enters  the  *  Great  Bras  d'Or  Lake,  a  noble  expanse 
of  water  with  a  depth  of  from  15  to  57  fathoms.    It  is  difficult  to  state  its 


THE  BRAS  DOR. 


Route  40.     1G5 


size,  on  account  of  tiie  numerous  deep  bays,  but  from  tlie  Strsiit  of  Barra 
to  the  S.  shore  it  is  18  M.  long  (N.  and  S.),  and  from  Malafruwdatchkt  it  is 
nearly  20  M.  (\Z.  and  W. )•  From  the  head  of  West  Bay  to  the  head  of 
East  Bay,  a  vessel  could  sail  in  a  straight  course  nearly  oO  M. 

"  The  Bras  d'Or  is  the  most  beautiful  salt-water  lake  I  have  ever  seen,  and  more 

beautiful  than  we  had  iniaj^ined  a  body  of  salt  water  could  be Tbe  water  seeks 

out  all  the  low  places,  and  ramifies  the  interior,  runnin;^  away  into  lovely  bays  and 
lagoons,  leaving  slender  tongues  of  land  and  picturesque  islands,  and  bringing  into 
the  recesses  of  the  land,  to  tlie  remote  country  farms  and  settlements  the  flavor  of 
salt,  and  the  fish  and  moUusks  of  the  bruiy  sea.  There  is  very  little  tide  at  any 
time,  so  that  the  shores  are  clean  and  sightly  for  tlie  most  part,  like  those  of  a  fresh- 
water i;ike.  It  has  all  the  pleasantness  of  a  fresh  water  lake,  with  all  the  advan- 
tages of  a  salt  one.  In  the  streams  which  run  into  it  are  the  speckled  trout,  the 
8h:id,  and  the  .salmon  ;  out  of  its  depths  are  hooked  the  cod  and  the  mackerel,  and 
in  its  bays  fatten  the  oyster  This  irregular  lake  is  about  100  M.  long,  if  you  meas- 
ure it  skilfully,  and  in  some  places  10  \I.  broad;  but  so  indented  is  it,  that  lam 
not  sure  but  one  would  need,  as  we  were  informed,  to  ride  1,000  M.  to  go  round  it, 
following  all  its  incursions  into  the  land.  The  hills  around  it  are  never  mere  than 
6-600  ft.  high,  but  they  are  high  enough  for  reposeful  beauty,  and  offer  everywhere 
pleasing  lines."    (W.vrner's  Baddeck) 

Soon  after  passing  the  Strait  of  Barra  the  broad  estuary  of  the  River 
Denys  is  seen  on  the  r.  Deep  ship-channels  may  be  followed  thither,  pass- 
ing at  first  through  a  cluster  of  islets,  and  then  into  the  North  Basin, 
whence  the  Portage  Inlet  runs  N.  to  within^  M.  of  the  Whycocomagh 
Basin.  The  Inner  Basin  is  7  M.  long  and  2-3  M.  wide,  and  is  sometimes 
visited  by  shi})s,  which  load  here  with  lumber  for  England.  The  River 
Denys  debouches  into  the  S.  W.  angle  of  this  basin.  There  are  five  ham- 
lots  of  from  150  to  300  inhabitants  each,  situated  on  the  basins  and  the 
river,  most  of  the  people  being  from  the  Western  Isles  of  Scotland. 

The  ancient  Indian  name  for  the  Bras  d'Or  was  Birlenubnrh ;  St.  Patrick's  Channel 
was  called  Onayner.k  ;  the  River- Denys  Basin,  Mirvinu'^iiasli ;  the  West  Btay,  l^aqiie- 
lacadie;  and  the  liast  Bay,  Piscnboua.s/i.  For  the  convenience  of  trading  with  the 
numerous  Indians  who  inhabited  these  shores,  M.  Denys  established  his  forts  at  St. 
Peter's  and  St.  Anne's  ;  but  there  is  no  record  of  .settlements  by  the  French  on  the 
lakes.     The  chief  seat  of  the  Indians  is  now  on  the  shore  where 

"  Escasoni's  fountains 
Pour  down  their  crystal  tide." 

The  beautiful  basin  and  river  of  Denys  were  named  in  honor  of  their  discoverer, 
Nicholas  Denys,  Sieur  de  Fronsac,  who  was  appointed  by  King  Louis,  in  1(354, 
"  Governor  and  Lieutenant-General  "  of  Cape  Breton  and  the  adjacent  shores. 

When  the  steamer  is  about  4  M.  from  the  Strait  of  Barra,  Benacadie 
Point  is  seen  on  the  1.,  7-8  M.  distant,  below  which  is  the  great  opening 
of  the  East  Bay  or  St.  Andrew's  Cliannel,  running  in  to  the  N.  E.  for 
nearly  25  M.  (see  page  147).  10-  12  M.  below  the  strait  is  the  open  ng  of 
the  long  and  sinuous  harbor  of  Mal'ujrtwdntchld,  which  approaches  the 
marble  formations  of  the  western  highlands,  and  has  a  village  of  350  in- 
habitants.    To  the  S.  E.  are  the  islands  off  St.  Peter's  Inlet. 


0, 


>^oM»  j.f- 


avvny  on  tiie  right  is  the  S.  W.  arm  of  the  (ireat  Bras  d'Or, 
which  is  called  the  West  Bay,  or  St.  Geovf/e's  Channel,  and  is  about  15  M. 
long  and  7  M.  wide.     It  contains  numerous  iblands,  and  is  separated  from 


^FmI 


1   i 


'4 ; 


I 


r  i' 


1 GG      Route  40. 


Tin:   HUAS   D'OK. 


f' 


III 
III 


the  Rivcr-Donyt*  Rasin  by  a  raiif^o  of  inassivo  lii^lilands  on  the  N.  The 
N.  shore  hills  arc  700-770  ft.  hif;h,  and  thosi;oii  the  S.  shore  are  250  -  ()20 
ft.  hifjjh.     The  shores  are  thinly  inhabited. 

"  The  only  other  thinp  of  note  the  Bras  d'Or  offorcfl  us  boforc  we  reached  West 
Bay  was  the  fiiu'st  show  ol'  iiicdiisa'  or  jnlly-tish  that  could  be  produced.  At  first 
tliere  were  dozens  of  tliese  disk-shaped  transparent  creatures,  and  tiien  hundreds, 
sfarrinp;  the  water  like  marjjfueritcs  si)rinkled  on  a  nteadow.  and  of  s-izes  from  tliat 
of  a  teacup  to  a  dinner-i)ljite.  We  soon  ran  into  h  scliool  of  them,  a  convention,  a 
herd  as  extensive  as  tlu' vast  buffalo  droves  on  the  plains,  a  collection  as  tliiek  a.s 
dover-lilossoms  in  a  field  in  June,  miles  of  tlieni  apparently  ;  and  at  lenjrth  the  boat 
liad  to  push  its  way  tliron^ih  a  mass  of  them  which  covered  the  water  like  the  leaves 
of  the  pond-lily,  and  tilled  the  deeps  far  down  with  their  beautiful  contractinfj  and 
expanding;  forms  I  did  not  sujipose  there  were  so  many  jelly-fishes  in  all  the  world." 
(U'ahnkr's   Bnilrlerk.) 

"The  scenerv  of  tlie  lakes  is  exceedingly  striking  and  diversified.  Long  rocky 
cliffs  and  esciirpments  rise  in  some  places  abru))tly  from  the  water's  edge  ;  in  others, 
undulating  or  rolling  hills  preiiominate,  fringed  on  tiie  shores  by  low  white  cliffs  of 
gypsum  or  red  conglomerate;  whilst  the  deep  basins  and  channels,  which  branch 
off  in  ail  directions  from  the  central  expanse  of  waters,  studded  with  innumerable 
islets  covered  with  a  rich  growth  ot  spruce  and  hemlock,  present  views  the  most 
picturesque  and  diversified  imaginable  "    (Brown.) 

"  Tlye  scenety  of  this  vast  inlet  is  in  some  places  beautifully  picturesque,  and  in 
some  others  monotonous  and  uninteresting,  but  in  many  parts  of  a  sul)lime  charac- 
ter, which  exhibits  the  sombre  gloom  of  pine  forests,  the  luxuriant  verdure  of  iiroad 
valleys  and  wooded  mountains,  and  the  wild  features  of  lofty  promontories  frowning 
in  stubborn  ruggedness  over  the  waters  of  the  rivers  and  inlets."'     (M'CIregor  ) 

"So  wide  is  it,  and  so  in<lented  l)y  broad  bays  and  deep  coves,  that  a  coasting 
journey  around  it  is  equal  in  extent  to  a  voyage  across  the  Atlantic.  Besides  the 
distant  mountains  that  rise  proudly  from  the  remote  shores,  tliere  are  many  nol)lo 
islands  in  its  expanse,  and  forest-covered  peninsulas,  bordered  witli  beaches  of  glit- 
tering white  pebbles.  But  over  all  this  wide  landscape  there  l)roods  a  spirit  of 
primeval  solitude For,  strange  as  it  may  se(Mn,  the  Golden  Arm  is  a  very  use- 
less pieco  of  water  in  this  part  of  the  world  ;  highly  favored  as  it  is  l)y  nature,  latid- 
lockcd,  deep  enough  for  vess(>ls  of  all  burden,  ea.sy  of  access  on  the  Gulf  side,  free 
from  fogs,  and  only  separated  from  the  ocean  at  its  southern  end  by  a  narrow  strip  of 
land,  about  'i  M.  wide  ;  abounding  in  timber,  coal,  and  gypsum, and  valuable  for  its 
fisheries,  especially  in  winter,  yet  th(!  Bras  d"Or  is  undeveloped  for  want  of  that 
elemeut  which  seems  to  be  alien  to  the  Colonies,  namely,  enterprise.^''    (Cozzens.) 

'•  The  climate  of  Baddeck  in  summer  is  delightful,  the  nights  being  always  cool 
and  the  lieat  of  the  day  never  oppres^ive  ;  on  only  one  occasion  last  July  did  tlie 
thermometer  indicate  80^.  The  air  has  a  life  and  an  elasticity  in  it  unknown  la 
lower  latitudes  during  tlie  summer  months.  .  .  .  The  water-view  is  one  of  the  finest 
to  be  found  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  clear  blue  waters  id'  the  Bras  d'Or,  hero  seven 
or  eight  miles  wide,  .are  .apparently  hennned  in  l)y  ranges  of  mountains,  whieh  in 
some  places  ris<>  abruptly  from  the  water  in  lofty  cliffs  ol"  plaster  or  gypsum,  worn 
l\v  the  action  of  water  into  strange  and  fantastic  forms.  Tliei^e  white  cliffs,  fringed 
vith  dark  evergreens,  i'orm,  with  the  red  conglonusrate  and  bright  green  fields 
stretching  down  to  the  water's  edg(>,  a  most  beautiful  picture,  whicli  is  appro- 
priately framed  with  long  lines  of  mountains.  The  Bras  d'Or.  though  an  arm  of 
tile  sea,  has  here  a  tide  of  only  from  six  to  eighteen  inches,  so  that  tliose  fond  of 
aquatic  pursuits  are  not  burdened  with  a  head  current  when  homeward  bound." 

Cnpe  Breton  Convections.  —  The  steamboat  Marion  leaves  Sydney  on  Mondays, 
Wediiesd>i\.>^,  an  1  Fridays,  calling  at  lioulardarie,  Baddeck,  Gland  Narrows,  St. 
Peters,  and  (irandique  Ferry,  connecting  with  the  train.  Returning,  it  leaves 
Mnlgi'ave  on  airival  of  train,  for  Sidney,  calling  at  above  p.")iiits,  and  connect- 
ing with  steamer  TShrjuolin  at  Bmldi't-k.  for  \\h\ cocomaiih   and  Little  Narrows. 

The  steamboat  Neptune  leaves  Mulgrave  on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays, 
on  arrival  of  the  train,  fen*  Hast  Hay,  calling  at  Grandique  Ferry  and  St  Peters. 
Jieturning  on  ruondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays  in  time  to  connect 

with  the  t'ain. 

The  steamship  Rirnniiski  leaves  Mulgrave  every  Monday  and  Friday,  for  Ari- 
cliat  ;:nd  Canso  :  'i'uesda.\  s  and  Thurs(!a\s,  for  Port  Hood;  \Vediiesda\  s  and  Satur- 
days, fur  Guysboro'.  Returning  the  following  moi'niugs,  to  connect  with  the 
train. 

Tlie  Cape-Breton  Railway  runs  from  the  Strait  of  Canso  along  the  W.  tide  of  the 
Island  to  G:and  Nariows,  Boisdule,  North  Sydney,  and  Sydney <. 


N.     The 
■J50  -  ()20 


ched  West 

I.  At  first 
huiiilroilH, 
from  that 
ivctitioii,  a 
IS  tliick  as 
th  the  boiit 
}  the  leiives 
•nctiiifj  nnd 
the  world." 

Long  rocky 
;  in  others, 
lite  clills  of 
lich  branch 
nnnnerable 
?s  the  most 

}ue,  and  in 
inie  charac- 
irc  of  iiroad 
les  frowning 

REG OR  ) 

;  a  coasting 

Besides  the 

many  nol)lo 

•lies  of  glit- 

a  spirit  of 

a  very  iise- 

itnre,  land- 

If  side,  free 

o\v  strip  of 

ualilo  for  its 

mt  of  that 

COZZENS.) 

always  cool 
uly  did  the 

iknown  ia 
of  the  finest 

here  sev(  u 
which  in 
pFum,  worn 
ifTs.  frinjrcd 
green  fields 
ti   is  appro- 

aii  arm  of 
uis(!  fond  of 
ird  bound." 

n  Mondays, 
V arrows,  St. 
g,  it  leaves 
11(1  connect- 
le  Narrows, 
nd  Fridays, 
d  St  Peters, 
e  to  connect 

ay,  for  Ari- 
s  and  Satur- 
ect  w  ith  the 

.  bide  of  the 


I 


ST.  PATRICK'S  CHANNEL.      liouie  41-      167 

41.    Baddeck  to  Mabou  and  Port  Hood.  —  St  Patrick's 
Channel  and  Whycocomagh. 

This  route  is  traversed  by  the  Royal  mail-stage  on  Mon<lay  and  Wednesday,  leav- 
ing IJaddeck  at  noon,  and  reac  liing  Whycocomagh  after  4  o'clock,  and  Mabou  at  9 
V.  M.  The  distance  ia  about  .'30  M.  ;  the  fare  is  ,'iii  2  5U  The  Koyal  mail-stage  on  this 
route  is  a  one-horse  wagon  with  a  single  seat,  so  that  the  acconimodations  for  tmvel 
are  limited. 

Mr  Warner  thus  describes  tlie  road  b(>t\veen  Whycocomagh  and  Baddeck:  "  From 
the  time  we  first  struck  the  Bras  d'Or  for  thirty  miles  we  rode  in  constant  sight  of 
its  magiiilicent  water.  Now  we  were  two  hundred  feet  above  the  water, on  the  hill- 
side skirting  a  point  or  following  an  indentation  ;  and  now  we  were  diving  into  a 
narrow  valley,  cros.-^ing  a  stream,  or  turning  a  sharj)  corner,  but  always  with  the 
Bras  d"Or  in  view,  the  afternoon  sun  shining  on  it,  softening  the  outlines  of  its  em- 
bracing hills,  casting  a  shadow  from  its  wooded  islands  Sometimes  we  opened  upon 
a  broad  water  plain  bounded  by  the  Watchabaktchkt  hills,  and  again  we  looked  over 
hill  after  hill  receding  into  the  soft  and  hazy  blue  of  the  land  beyond  the  great  mass 
of  the  Bras  d'Or  The  reader  can  compare  the  view  and  the  ride  to  the  Bay  of 
Naples  and  the  Cornice  Road  ;  we  did  nothing  of  the  sort ;  we  held  on  to  the  sefit, 
prayed  that  the  iiarness  (jf  the  pony  might  not  break,  and  gave  constant  expressiou 
to  our  wonder  and  delight." 

St.  Patrick's  Channel  is  20  M.  long  by  1-3  M.  wide,  and  is  made 
highly  iii,-,turesque  by  its  deep  coves,  wooded  points,  and  lofty  sliores.  Its 
general  course  is  followed  by  the  highway,  affording  rich  views  from  some 
of  the  higher  grades.  After  leaving  Baddeck  the  road  strikes  across  the 
country  for  about  5  M.  to  the  liaddeck  River,  in  whose  upper  waters  are 
large  trout.  Beyoiul  this  point  the  road  swings  around  the  blue  expanse 
of  Indian  Bay,  approaching  a  bold  hill-range  650  ft.  high,  and  crosses  the 
Middle  Kiver,  at  whose  mouth  is  an  hulian  reservation.  Frequent  glimpses 
are  afforded  of  St.  Patrick's  Chaimel,  well  to  the  1.  across  the  green  mead- 
ows. A  range  of  lofty  heights  now  forces  the  road  nearer  to  the  water, 
and  it  passes  within  2  M.  of  the  remarkable  strait  known  as  the  Little 
Niwrowx,  about  which  there  are  150  inhabitants. 

A  road  leads  N.  W.  5  M    into  Ainslic  Gli'n,  and  to  the  great  Ainslie  L,ake, 

which  covers  25  square  iiiiles,  and  is  the  source  of  the  .Margaree  River  Its  shores 
are  broken  and  rugged,  and  are  occupied  by  a  hardy  population  of  Highlanders. 
I'etroleum  springs  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity  (see  page  109). 

Beyond  the  Little  Narrows  is  a  magnificent  basin,  15  M.  long  and  3-5 
M.  wide,  into  whose  sequestered  and  forest-bound  waters  hirge  ships  make 
their  way,  and  are  here  laden  with  timber  for  Europe. 

The  road  runs  around  the  successive  spurs  of  the  ^alt 
Mt.,  a  massive  ridge  on  tl.e  N.  sliore  of  the  Basin,  and  many  very  attractive 
views  are  gained  from  its  upper  reaches.  From  the  crest  of  Salt  Mountain 
portions  of  tlie  four  counties  of  tlie  island  can  be  .seen  on  clear  days.  It 
affords  a  magnilicent  view,  and  is  a  comparatively  easy  though  steep  climb. 
The  water  is  of  a  rich  blue,  partly  owing  to  its  depth,  wliich  is  from  3  to 
20  fathoms. 

Whycocomagh  {Bay-View  Hotel)  is  a  Scottish  Presbyterian  hamlet, 
situated  at  the  X.  W.  angle  of  the  Basin,  and  surrounded  l)y  pretty  Trosach- 
like  scenery.     There  are  about  400  inhabitants  in  this  neighboi'hood, 


m 


I 


'.is 


•I; 

m 


'•t 


\^ 


k4 


i;>  1  r.i. 

'''I'lV, 
'I  A  id' 

V-.  -  5" 


II' 

I;  I;  •■; 

'  f . 

:  : 

i    f-  • 


1  G8       Route  1,2. 


WHYCOCOMAGH. 


whence  small  cargoes  of  produce  are  annually  shipped  to  Newfoundland. 
Near  this  point  is  a  marhlo  cave,  with  several  chambers  6-8  ft.  \\\^\\  and 
foxes  are  often  seen  among  the  hills.  It  is  claimed  that  valuable  (le])osit.s 
of  magnetic  and  hematitic  iron-ore  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity. 
Stages  run  30  M.  S.  W.  from  Whycocomagh  to  I'ort  Hastings,  on  the  tame 
and  uninteresting  road  known  as  the  Victoria  Line. 

"  What  we  first  saw  was  an  inlet  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  called  by  the  driver  Iloganiah 
Bay.  At  its  entrance  were  Iniig,  wooded  islands,  liejond  which  we  saw  the  backs 
of  graceful  hills,  like  tin-  lapes  of  son.e  pottic  ,-ea-coast  ...  A  peaceful  place,  this 
W  liycoi  ou.agli.  The  lapsii.g  Wiiters  of  the  Bras  d'Or  made  u  sunsnier  uiu.-ic  all 
along  tlie  quiet  street ,  tliebay  lay  pniiling  uith  its  inlands  in  front,  and  an  aniphi- 
therttre  of  liiils  rose  beyond."   (Warnku's  Baddick.) 

On  leav  ng  Whycocouiagli  the  quaint  double  peaks  of  Salt  Mt.  are  seen 
in  retrospective  views,  and  the  road  soon  enters  the  Skye  Glen,  a  long, 
narrow  valley,  which  is  occupied  by  the  Highlanders.  The  wagon  soon 
reaches  the  picturesque  gorge  of  the  Mahou  Valley^  with  the  mountainous 
mass  of  Cape  Mabou  in  front.  The  Mull  River  is  seen  on  the  1.,  glitter- 
ing far  below  in  the  valley,  and  erelong  the  widenings  of  the  sea  are 
reached,  and  the  traveller  arrives  at  Mabou.    The 

stage  for  Port  Hood  (10  M.  S.)  leaves  at  noon,  reaching  Port  Hastings  at 
7.30  P.  M.  (see  Route  42).       

A  steamboat  runs  from  Baddeck  to  Whycocomagh  twice  a  week.  This 
route  is  much  easier  for  the  traveller  than  that  by  the  stage,  and  reveals  as 
much  natural  beauty,  if  made  during  the  hours  of  daylight.  The  passage 
of  the  Little  Narrows  and  the  approach  to  Whycocomagh  are  its  most 
striking  phases. 

42.  The  West  Coast  of  Cape  Breton.  — Port  Hood  and  Mar- 

garee. 

The  Royal  mail-stajxe  leaves  Port  Hastings  every  evening,  at  about  4  o'clock,  after 
the  arrival  of  the  Halifax  mail-train.  Fare  to  Port  Hood,  $2 ;  '$1  by  steamer,  in 
summer. 

Distances.  —  Port  Hasting?!  to  Low  Point,  7  M.  ;  Crei:j:nish,  9  ;  Long  Point,  14  ; 
Judiqne,  13;  Little  Judique,  24;  Port  Hood,  28;  Mabou,  88;  Broad  Cove  Inter- 
vale, 5G  ;  Margareo  Forks,  68;  Margarce,  76  ;  Cheticanip,  88. 

The  first  portion  of  this  route  is  interesting,  as  it  affords  frequent  pleas- 
ant views  of  the  Strait  of  Caiiso  and  its  bright  maritime  ])rocessions.  The 
trend  of  the  coast  is  followed  from  Port  Hastings  to  the  N.  W.,  and  a  suc- 
cession of  small  hamlets  is  seen  along  the  bases  of  the  highlands.  Just 
beyond  Lou)  Point  is  the  Catholic  village  of  the  same  name,  looking  out 
over  the  sea.  The  road  now  skirts  the  wider  waters  of  St.  George's  Bay^ 
over  which  the  dark  Antigonish  Mts.  are  visible.  Beyond  the  settlements 
of  CroignibU  uud  Long  Point  is  the  populous  distiict  of  Judique,  iuhab- 


PORT  HOOD. 


Route  42.       169 


veek.    This 


!ted  by  Scottish  Catholic?,  who  are  devoted  to  the  sea  and  to  agriculture. 
The  Judiqiiers  are  famous  thrnn2liout  the  Province  f  jr  their  great  stature, 
and  are  well  l<nown  to  the  American  fisiiermen  on  account  of  tlicir  pug- 
nacity. Yanlvee  crews  landing  on  this  coast  are  frequently  assailed  by 
these  pugilistic  Gaels,  and  the  stalwart  men  of  Jutlique  usually  come  off 
victorious  in  the  fistic  encounters.  The  district  has  about  2,000  inhab- 
itants. 

Port  Hood  (two  inns)  is  the  capital  of  Inverness  County,  and  is  a  pic- 
turesque little  seaport  of  about  800  inhabitants.  The  American  fishermen 
in  the  Gulf  frequently  take  shelter  here  durng  rough  weather,  and  400 
sail  have  been  seen  in  the  port  at  one  time.  There  are  large  coal-deposits 
in  the  vicinity,  which,  however,  have  not  yet  been  developed  to  any 
extent.  The  town  was  founded  by  Capt.  Smith  and  a  party  of  New- 
Englanders,  in  1790.  "This  port  affords  the  only  safe  anchorage  on  the 
VV.  coast  of  Cape  Breton  to  the  N.  of  the  Gut  of  Canso,"  and  is  marked 
by  a  red-and-white  light,  near  the  highway,  on  the  S.  Oil'  shore  is  Smith's 
Island,  which  is  2  M.  long  and  210  ft.  high,  beyond  which  are  the  high 
shores  of  Henry  Island.  A  stage-road  runs  N.  K.  to  Hillsborough,  where 
it  meets  the  road  from  ^Mabou,  and  thence  passes  E.  to  Whycoconiagh  (see 
page  107).  Steamers  run  from  Mulgrave  to  Port  Hood  every  Tuesday  and 
Thursday. 

Mabou  (Cameron  House)  is  10  M.  N.  E.  of  Port  Hood,  and  is  reached 
by  a  daily  stage  passing  along  the  shore-road.  It  is  at  the  month  of  the 
broad  estuary  of  the  Mabou  River,  amid  bold  and  attractive  scenery,  and 
conta  US  about  800  inhabitants.  To  the  N.  K.  is  the  highland  district  of 
Cape  Mabou,  averaging  1,000  ft.  in  height,  and  thickly  wooded.  The 
Gulf-shore  road  to  Margaree  runs  between  this  range  and  the  sea,  passing 
the  marine  hamlets  of  Cape  Mabou  and  Sight  Point.  There  is  an  inland 
road,  behind  the  hills,  which  is  entered  by  following  the  VVhycocomagh 
road  to  the  head  of  the  estuary  of  the  Mabou  and  then  diverging  to  the 
N.  E.  This  road  is  traversed  by  a  tri-weekly  stage,  and  leads  up  by  the 
large  farming-settlement  at  Broad  Cove  Intervale,  to  the  W.  shores  of 
Lake  Ainslie  (see  page  167),  which  has  several  small  Scottish  hamlets 
among  the  glens. 

"The  angler  who  has  once  driven  through  Ainslie  Glen  to  the  shores  of  the 
liike,  launched  his  canoe  upon  its  broad  waters,  and  entered  its  swiftly  running 
stream,  will  never  be  content  to  return  Until  he  has  fished  its  successive  pools  to  its 
\ery  mouth." 

A  road  leads  out  from  near  the  W.  shore  of  the  lake  to  the  village  of 
Broad  Cove  Chapel,  on  the  Gulf  coast,  traversing  a  pass  in  the  highlands. 
The  stage  runs  N.  between  the  hills  and  the  valley  of  the  Margaree  (S.  W. 
Brancli),  "one  of  the  most  romantic  and  best  stocked  salmon-rivers  in  the 
world."  Beyond  the  settlement  of  Broad  Cove  Marsh,  a  road  runs  out  to 
the  Gulf  abreast  of  Sea-  Wolf  Islaiul,  on  whose  cliffs  is  a  fixed  light,  300  ft. 


170      nn'le42. 


MAHGAHEE. 


^^l 


hhrh.  M<irrinree  Forl-n  is  a  rurnl  villajjo  nt  the  junction  of  the  N.  E.  and 
S.  W  r.rnmlics  of  the  famous  Marg'aree  Eiver,  whcro  sulnion  abound 
from  June  15  until  July  15,  and  rare  sea-trout  lisliing  is  found. 

"  In  Cape  ISri'tnn  thf  tmiiuHfiil  Miirjiitn-o  Is  on«'  of  the  ir.oft  noted  streiims  for  sea- 
trout,  and  its  clcur  water  and  iii(  rini'M|iu'  s( cnerv,  wiiidinjr  through  inttrviile  mead- 
ows dotted  witli  groniis  of  witcli-clin.  and  backed  ))V  wooded  lillls  over  a  thousand 
feet  in  height,  entitle  it  to  pre-entinencc  amongst  the  rivers  of  tiie  Gulf  '' 

'i'liere  fire  sevenil  small  liuinlcts  in  this  refrion.  with  a  total  population 
of  over  4,000.  Margaree  Harbor  iCi'oirdis  Ilmise  ;  GilUs  House),  near 
the  (/hiuiiiey-Corncr  coul-miues,  48  M.  from  I'ort  ilood,  has  a  small  fleet 
ot  rtshiuji-vessels.  A  shore-road  runs  X.  K.  12  M.  to  Chetlcamp,  a  district 
containing  about  2,000  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  of  the  old  Acadian 
race.  It  is  a  fishino;  station  of  Robin  &  Co.,  an  ancient  and  powerful 
commercial  house  on  tlio  Isle  of  .Jersey;  and  was  founded  by  them  in  1784, 
nn<l  settled  by  Acadian  rofiisees  from  Prince  Kdwarfl  Is]an<l.  The  harbor 
is  suitable  for  small  vessels,  and  is  formed  by  Cheticamp  Island,  sheltering 
the  mouth  of  the  Cheticamp  River.  There  is  a  powerful  revolving  white 
light* on  the  S.  point  of  the  island,  loO  ft.  high,  and  visible  for  20  M. 
nt  sea. 

N.  E.  and  E  of  Cheticamp  extends  the  great  highland-wilderness  of 
the  N.  part  of  Cape  Hroton  (see  page  163),  an  unexplored  and  trackless 
land  of  forests  and  mountains.  There  are  no  roads  above  Cheticamp,  and 
the  most  northerly  point  of  the  Province,  Ccj.'e  St.  Lawrence  (see  ])iige 
159),  is  30  M.  N.  E.  by  K.  ^  E.  from  the  N.  part  of  Cheticamp  Island. 


%  > 


!  ,:■■ 


A 


11 


1 


The  terrible  storm  which  swept  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  in  August,  1873,  and 
^vrecked  hundreds  of  vessels,  attained  its  greate.-t  force  around  the  island  of  Cape 
Breton  and  in  the  narrow  seas  to  the  \V  ,  towards  I'lince  Edward's  Island  and  the 
Magdalen  Island.  It  lasted  oidv  a  few  hours,  but  was  fearluliy  destruc  tive  in  it.s 
effects,  and  strewed  all  these  ( oasts  with  drowned  mariners  The  following  spirited 
poem  is  inserted  here,  by  the  kind  pern)ission  of  its  author,  Mr.  Edmund  C.  Sted- 
uian. 

The  Lord's-Day  Gale. 


In  Gloucester  port  lie  fishinp  craft,— 
■More  staunch  nnrl  trim  \V(i'n  never  seen  : 

They  are  sharp  before  and  sheer  nhaft. 
And  true  their  lines  the  ninsts  between. 

Alonsj  the  wharves  of  (Jlnncester  Town 

TJK'ir  fiires  are  lightly  landed  down, 
And  the  laden  flakes  to  sunward  lean. 

Well  know  the  men  each  eruisinp-sronnd, 
Ancl  where  the  cod  and  mackerel  be 

Old  Kastern  Point  the  schooners  round 
And  leave  Cape  .\nn  on  the  larboard  lee  : 

Sonnd  are  the  planks,  the  hearts  are  bold, 

That  hrave  Decembers  surpcs  cold 
On  George's  shoals  in  the  outer  sea. 

And  some  nmst  sail  'o  the  banks  far  north 
And  set  their  trawls  for  the  hnnpry  cod,- 
In  the  phostly  Ioh  creep  back  and  lorth 
B\-  shro'ided  paths  no  foot  iinth  trod  ; 
T'lion  the  crews  the  ice-wmds  blow, 
The  bitter  sleet,  the  frozen  snow,  — 
.  Thvir  Uvea  arc  in  the  hand  of  God  ! 


New  England  :  New  England  ! 

Needs  sail  they  must,  so  b'ave  and  poor, 
Or  June  tie  warm  or  Winter  storin, 

Lest  a  wolf  gnaw  thronph  the  cottape-door  1 
Three  weeks  at  home,  three  lone  months  gone, 
While  the  patient  good-wives  sleep  alone, 

And  wake  to  hear  the  breakers  lour. 

The  Grand  fJank  gathers  In  its  dead.  - 
The  deep  sea-sand  is  their  windinu-shcet ; 

Who  does  not  (Jeorfre  s  bdlows  dread 
'I'hat  dash  toeether  the  driftina  fleet  ? 

TVlm  rloes  not  Ions;  to  hear,  in  Mjiv, 

The  pleasant  wash  of  Saint  Lawrence  Tiny, 
The  fairest  grotnid  where  ti.shermen  meet  ? 

There  the  west  wave  holds  the  red  sttrlipht 
Till  the  bells  at  home  are  rung  for  nine  : 

Short,  short  the  wateb..  nnit  eahn  the  Jiight ; 
The  tiery  northern  streamers  shine  ; 

The  eastern  sky  anon  is  cold. 

And  winds  trofn  pinv  forests  old. 
Scatter  the  white  mists  otlthe  t>rine. 


THE  LOUD'S-DAY  GALE.         Route  ^.       171 


N.  E.  nnd 

n  ab()iin(? 


in  8  for  sea- 
vale  mend- 
I  tliousand 


lopulation 
mae)^  near 
^inall  fleet 
a  district 
i  Acadiiui 
powerful 
n  in  1784, 
he  harbor 
slieltering 
iufi  Avhite 
for  20  M. 

lerness  of 
trackless 
•ainp,  and 
(see  ])age 
and. 

1873,  and 
d  of  Cai)e 
d  and  the 
five  in  its 
n^  i-pii'itfd 
d  C.  Sted- 


ind  poor, 
I. 

)ttnpc-<loor  I 
iioiitlisgone, 

p  llloilf, 

our. 

nd.  - 

iiL'-shcet  J 
ciid 
flut't  ? 
y, 

lire  Unv. 

lllfll   llU'ct  ? 

1  Rurlight 
or  v'v.^c  : 
...  ...^..t  I 


rtne. 


New  Fnfflnnd  '  Now  F.niflnnd  ' 
'I'lioii  fttvrst  well  tliiiii'  oi'Ciin  mnln  I 

It  »|irt'ii(|ith  its  lin'kst  uiiKMii/  thy  nickc. 
And  \nntt  \\\n\\n^t  tliy  ln'iirt  liati)  luiu  ; 

Thy  shitiH  ii|i(>ii  it.s  Ikmoih  ridi' 

And  Itul  tlio  lu'iivinjf  o1  Jt.n  tide  : 
To  thte  its  secret  upeeth  is  i  luin. 

Cape  Breton  and  Kdwiird  Inle  between, 
In  striiit  and  L'ulf  tlie  schooners  lay  ; 

The  sea  was  all  at  pcaeo,  1  ween, 
'I'he  night  before  that  .Vngnst  day  ; 

Was  never  a  (JloU(;e.ster  skipper  tliere, 

But  thoiijiht  erelonB,  with  u  ripht  Bood  fare, 
To  sail  for  liome  ironi  Suiitt  Lawrence  Bay. 

New  Enplnnd  !  New  Knglnnd  ! 

Thy  siinnt's  love  was  turned  to  hate  1 
The  winds  eontrol  his  lickU;  son). 

And  in  liis  wraih  he  hath  no  mate. 
Thy  shores  his  angry  scourges  tear, 
And  lor  thy  ehihlreii  in  his  care 

The  suduen  tempests  lie  in  wait. 

The  East  Wind  fjathered  all  unknown,  — 
A  »hick  .sea  cloinl  his  course  liel'ore  ; 

lie  left  hy  nipht  the  Inizen  zone 
And  smote  the  clitfs  of  Labrador  ; 

lie  lashed  the  coasts  on  either  hand, 

And  betwi.xt  the  (Jipe  and  Newfoundland 
Into  the  Hay  his  armies  pour. 

He  caught  our  helpless  cruisers  there 
As  a  f,'ray  wolf  harries  the  hndd!!ng  fold  ; 

A  sleet  -  li  darkness      tilled  the  air, 
A  shudderiuii  wave  before  it  rolled  : 

That  Lord  s-i)ay  morn  it  was  a  breeze,— 

At  noon,  a  blast  that  shook  the  seas,  — 
At  night  —  a  wind  of  Death  took  liold  ! 

It  leaped  acrnas  the  Breton  bar, 
A  death-wind  from  the  stormy  East  I 

It  scarred  the  land,  and  whirled  afar 
The  sheiterrng  thatch  of  man  and  beast; 

It  mingled  riek  and  roof  and  tree. 

And  like  a  besom  swept  the  sea. 
And  churned  the  wate  8  into  yeast. 

From  8aint  Panl  s  Light  to  Edward  s  Isle 
A  thoosand  craft  it  smo»e  "Urdn  . 

And  some  a^'ainst  it  s  rove  the  while, 
And  more  to  lU'ike  a  port  were  fain  : 

The  inackcrcl-snlls  flew  seroaming  p-ist, 

And  the  stick  that  bent  to  the  noonday  blast 
Was  split  by  the  sundown  hurricane. 


O,  what  can  live  on  the  open  iea. 
Or  moored  in  port  the  gale  outride? 

The  very  craft  that  at  anchor  be 
Arc  dragued  along  l)y  the  swollen  ildot 

The  great  slorm-wave'came  rolling  we»t. 

And  tossed  the  vessels  on  its  crest  . 
The  ancient  tiounds  its  might  defied  \ 

The  ebb  to  check  it  had  no  power  ; 

The  surf  ran  up  to  an  nnt(dd  height ; 
It  rose,  nor  yielded,  hour  by  hour, 

A  niglit  and  day,  u  day  and  niglit ; 
P'ar  up  the  seething  shores  it  cast 
The  wreck  of  hull  and  spar  and  niast. 

The  strangled  crews,  —  a  wid'ul  sight  I 

There  were  twenty  an<l  tnoro  of  Brel(m  sail 

Fast  anchored  oii  one  monring-^round  , 
Each  lay  within  his  neighbors  liad, 
When  the  thick  of   the  tempest  closed  them 
round : 
All  sank  at  once  in  the  gaping  sea,  - 
Homewliere  (m  the  shoals  their  corses  l>e. 
The   foundered    hulks,    and    the  seamen 
drowned. 

On  reef  and  bar  our  schooners  drove 
Before  the  wind,  before  the  swell ; 

Bv  the  steep  sand-clitt's  their  ribs  were  stove,  — 
"Lon2,  long  their  crews  the  tale  shall  tell : 

Of  the  (iloucester  fleet  are  wrecks  threescore; 

Uf  the  Province  .sail  two  liundied  more 
Were  stranded  in  that  tempest  fell. 

The  bedtime  hells  in  Gloucester  Town 
That  Sabbath  night  rang  soft  and  clear; 

The  sailors'  childrt  n  laid  tliem  down,  — 
Dear  Lordl  their  sweet  prayers  touldst  thou 
hear  'I 

'T  is  said  that  gently  l>lew  the  winds  ; 

The  cood  wives,  thi-ouah  the  seaward  blinds, 
Looked  down  the  bay  and  had  no  fear. 

New  England  !   New  Encland  I 

Thy  ports  their  dauntless  seamen  mourn  ; 
The  twin  capes  yearn  for  their  return 

Wlio  never  shall  he  thither  borne  : 
Their  orphans  whisper  as  they  meet ; 
The  homes  are  dark  in  many  ii  street, 

And  women  move  in  weeds  forlorn. 

And  wilt  thon  fail,  and  dost  thou  fear  ? 

Ah,  no  ;  ihoiigh  Widows  cheeks  are  pale, 
The  lads  si'all  say  :  "  Another  vear. 

And  we  shall  lie  of  nge  to  s'ul : 
A'ul  the  mothers'  hearts  shall  fill  with  pride. 
Though  tears  drop  fast  lor  them  who  died 

When  the  fleet  was  wrecked  in  the  Lord's- 
I  Day  gale. 


"  The  island  bncanie  as  Oaelio  as  the  most  Gaelic  part  of  Scotland.  It  continues 
po  to  this  day.  What  of  Cape  Breton  is  not  Highland  Scottish  is  Acadian  French 
The  old  allies  of  the  Middle  Ages  live  together  in  :  mity  on  this  fair  outpost  of  the 
new  world.  The  Hifrhland  imniigrnnts  had  a  hard  time  of  it  for  many  a  long  day. 
They  were  poor,  unskilled  in  agriculture,  and  utterly  ignorant  of  woodcmft  or 
forest  life.  But  their  rnortile  was  superb  Like  men  they  set  the  stout  heart  to 
the  stae  brae.  H-irdy,  patient,  frugal.  Ood-fearing,  they  endured  hardships  th  t 
would  have  killed  ordinary  settlers.  Gradually  and  painfully  they  learned  to  wield 
the  axe,  and  to  liold  the  plough  instead  of  the  clumsy  hoe  and  spade  of  their  native 
isles.  The  lakes  and  streams,  t'le  Bras  d'Or  and  the  rough  Atlantic,  crave  generous 
supplies  of  food.  'I'heir  log-huts  in  the  green  woods  were  their  own  And  their 
children  have  exchanged  the  primitive  shanty  for  comfortable  frame  houses,  and 
the  few  sheep  their  fathers  owned  for  fat  flocks  and  hardy  horses  that  they  rear  for 
the  Svdney  and.  Newfoundland  markets.  Take  up  your  summer  quarters  on  the 
Gut  of  Canso,  or  at  St.  Peter's,  Baddeck,  Whycocomagh,  Sydney,  fjonisbourg,  Mar- 
garee.  or  any  other  local  centre,  and  though  you  mav  no^  get  '  all  tho  comforts  of 
the  ^^nutmarket,'  you  will  get  what  is  better.  The  more  Gaelic  you  can  speuk  tUe 
iess  mouey  you  need  to  have  in  your  purse."    (Rev.  Geouoe  M.  iSRAM.) 


■-.■.>*  iv,,;; 


PHINCE  EDWAKD   ISLAND. 


PniNCR  EnwARD  Island  is  situHtcd  In  the  southern  portion  of  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  nnd  is  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the  Northumberland 
Strait.  It  is  30  M.  from  Cape  Breton  Island,  16  M.  from  Nova  Scotia,  and 
0  M.  from  New  Brun«wick,  and  is  surrounded  by  deep  and  navigable 
waters.  The  extreme  length  is  130  M.;  the  extreme  breadth,  34  M.;  and 
the  area  is  2,133  square  miles.  The  surface  is  low  or  gently  undulating, 
with  small  hills  in  the  central  parts,  and  the  soil  is  mostly  derived  from 
red  sandstone,  and  is  very  fertile.  The  air  is  balmy  and  bracing,  less 
foggy  than  the  adjacent  shores,  and  milder  than  tliat  of  New  Brunswick. 
The  most  abundant  trees  are  the  evergreens,  besides  which  the  oak  and 
maple  are  found.  The  shores  are  deeply  hidented  by  harbors,  of  which 
those  toward  the  Gulf  are  obstructed  by  sand,  but  those  on  the  S.  are  com- 
modious and  accessible. 

The  island  is  divided  into  3  coutitie*!,  including  13  districts,  or  67  town- 
ships and  3  royalties.  It  has  108,81)1  inhabitants,  of  whoni  47,115  are  Cath- 
olics, 33,835  are  Presbyterians,  13,485  Methodists,  and  7,205  Episcopalians. 
The  majority  of  the  people  are  of  Scottish  origin,  and  there  are  300 
Micniac  Indians.  The  local  government  is  conducted  by  the  Executive 
Council  (9  members)  and  the  House  of  Assembly  (30  members),  and  the 
political  parties  wliich  form  about  the  petty  questions  of  the  island  dis- 
play a  partisan  acrimony  and  employ  a  caustic  journalism  such  as  are 
not  seen  even  in  the  United  States.  The  Province  is  provided  with  gov- 
ernor and  cabinet,  supreme  and  vice-admiralty  courts,  and  a  public 
domain,  on  the  same  plan  as  those  of  the  great  Provinces  of  Quebec  and 
Ontario.  The  land  is  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  nearly  all  the 
population  is  riu'al.  Manufactories  can  scarcely  be  said  to  exist,  but  the 
fisheries  are  carried  on  to  some  extent,  and  shipbuilding  receives  con- 
siderable attention.  The  roads  are  good  in  dry  weather,  and  lead  through 
quiet  rural  scenery,  broken  every  few  miles  by  the  blue  expanses  of  the 
broad  bays  and  salt-water  lagoons.  The  chief  exports  consist  of  oats, 
barley,  hay,  potatoes,  fish,  live-stock,  and  eggs. 

It  has   been  claimed  that  Prince  Edward  Island  was   discovered  bv 


r'..Kr%«- 


*v 


vyuuiii,  iii  1497,  but  there  is  no  certainty  on  this  subject.  It  was  visited 
by  Champlain  on  St.  John's  Day,  lf!08,  and  received  from  him  the  name 
of  V  Isle  St.  Jean.    The  whole  country  was  then  covered  with  stately  for- 


PRIN'CE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 


173 


Dn  of  tho 
mberlnnd 
cotia,  and 
navigable 
1  M*,  and 
lulnlatlng, 
ived  from 
icing,  less 
runswlck. 
le  oak  and 
,  of  which 
>.  are  com- 

r  G7  tovrn- 
i)  are  Cath- 
"icopalians. 
■e  300 
Executive 
),  and  the 
si  and  dis- 
lich  as  are 
with  gov- 
a  public 
uebec  and 
ly  all  the 
it,  but  the 
leivcs  con- 
(1  through 
ses  of  tho 
t  of  oats, 

ivered  by 

[as  visited 

the  name 

Itately  for- 


ests, abounding  in  game,  and  was  inhabited  by  a  clan  of  the  Mictnac 
Indians,  who  pulled  it  Epnyijuit  ("Anchored  on  the  Wave")-  It  was 
included  in  tho  broad  domain  of  Acadia,  over  which  Franco  and  England 
waged  such  disaatrou>»  wars,  but  was  not  settled  for  over  two  centuries 
after  CabotN  voyage.  In  1G03  this  and  tho  Magdalen  Islands  were  granted 
to  M.  I)()ui)let,  a  captain  in  tho  French  navy,  who  erected  summer  fishing- 
stations  here,  but  abandoned  tiiem  every  autumn.  After  England  had 
wrested  Nova  Scotia  frotn  Franco,  a  few  Acadians  crossed  overtoL'Islo 
St.  Jean  and  became  its  first  settlers.  In  1728  tluTc  wore  60  French  fam- 
ilies here;  in  1745  there  were  about  800  inhabitants;  and  duruig  her  death- 
struggles  with  the  Anglo-American  armies,  the  Province  of  Quebec  drew 
large  supplies  of  grain  and  cattle  from  these  shores.  The  capital  was  at 
Port  la  Joie  (near  Charlottotown),  where  there  was  a  battery  and  garrison, 
dependent  on  the  military  commaiidant  of  Louisbourg.  It  is  claimed  by 
Haliburton  that  the  island  was  captured  by  tho  New-Englamlers  in  1746, 
but  it  is  known  only  that  Gen.  Pej)perell  ordered  400  of  his  soldiers  to  sail 
from  Louisbourg  and  occupy  L'Islo  St.  Jean.  It  does  not  appear  whether 
or  not  this  was  done.  After  tho  expulsion  of  the  Acadians  from  Nova 
Scotia,  many  of  them  fi^d  to  this  island,  which  contained  4,100  inhab- 
itants in  1758.  In  that  year  Lord  Rollo  took  possession  of  it,  according  to 
the  capitulation  of  Louisbourg,  with  a  small  military  force. 

In  1763  the  island  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain  by  the  Treaty  of  Fon- 
ta'nebleau,  and  became  a  part  of  the  Province  of  Nova  Scotia.  It  was 
surveyed  in  1764  -  6,  and  was  granted  to  about  100  English  and  Scottish 
gentlemen,  who  were  to  pay  quitrents  and  to  settle  their  lands  with  1  per- 
son to  every  200  acres,  within  10  years,  the  colonists  to  be  Protestants 
from  the  continent  of  Europe.  When  the  10  years  had  elapsed,  many  of 
the  estates  were  forfeited  or  sold  to  other  parties,  and  only  19  of  the  67 
townships  had  any  settlers.  In  1770  the  island  was  made  a  separate  Prov- 
ince, and  in  1773  the  first  House  of  Assembly  met.  In  1775  the  Americans 
captured  the  capital,  and  in  1778  four  Canadian  companies  were  stationed 
there.  In  1780  the  Province  was  called  New  Ireland,  but  the  King  vetoed 
this  name,  and  in  1800  it  was  entitled  Prince  Edward  Island,  in  honor  of 
His  Royal  Highness  Prince  Edward,  Duke  of  Kent,  then  Commander  of  the 
Forces  in  British  North  America  (afterwards  father  of  Queen  "Victoria).  In 
1803  the  Earl  of  Selkirk  sent  over  800  Highlanders,  and  other  proprietors  set- 
tled colonies  on  their  domains.  The  complicated  questions  arising  from  th(< 
old  proprietary  estates  have  engrossed  most  of  the  legislation  of  the  isl- 
and for  70  years,  and  have  been  settled  by  the  purchase  of  the  lands  by 
tiie  government  Prince  Edward  Island  long  refused  to  enter  the  Dominion 
of  Canada,  but  yielded  at  last  on  very  favorable  terms,  one  of  the  condi- 
tions being  that  the  Confederacy  should  build  a  railway  throughout  the 
Province. 


;^J 


1. 


174         -  • 


CAPE  TRAVKRSE. 


$!■• ' 


43L.   Point  du  Chene  to  SummersMe  and  Charlottetown.  — 
The  Northumberland  Strait. 

ilk/ John  (/)  Point  du  CliOiie,  ^ee  Houte.s  14  and  10. 

hititti)^/':*  leave  I'olnt  du  (Jhene  ev  •"■y  day  during  tlie  wenson  of  navijja- 
tion,  on  arn  '•!  of  the  morning  train  from  St.  John.  Tlw  fare  to  ISunuuer- 
ftidc  in  $1.50;  and  from  SunimerHide  to  Charluttutown,  $1.&U. 

Tlie  distance  from  Slicliac  to  Summorsidij  i.s  y5  M.  .Soon  after  leaving 
the  wharf  at  Point  du  Chene  the  steamer  passes  out  tlirouph  Sliediac  Hay, 
nnd  enters  tlie  Northumberland  Strait.  The  cotirse  is  a  little  N.  of  E.,  and 
the  first  point  of  the  island  to  come  in'o  8ight  is  Cape  Egmont,  with  its 
lines  of  low  sandstone  cliffs.  The  traveller  Jiow  sees  the  sifiniflcanco 
of  the  ancient  Indian  name  of  this  sea-girt  land,  Epayyuit,  signifying 
"  Anchored  on  the  Wave." 

Af\er  passing  Cape  Egmont  on  the  1.,  the  steamer  enters  Bed«  que,  or 
Halifa^c,  Bay,  nnd  runs  in  toward  the  low  shores  on  theN.  E.  After  pass- 
ing Indian  Point  and  Island  it  enters  the  harbor  of  Summerside,  with  the 
estuary  of  the  Dunk  Kiver  on  the  r. 

Summerside,  f=ee  page  179. 

Upon  leaving  Summerside  the  steamer  pa?.ses  Indian  Point  on  the  1., 
and,  after  running  by  SaluUHwn  Point,  i:ntera  the  Northumberland  Strait. 
The  course  is  nearly  S.  E.  9  M.  from  Salutatiim  Point  is  Cape  Traverse, 
and  on  the  S.  shore  is  Cape  Toniientino.  At  this,  the  narrowest  part  of 
the  strait,  the  mails  are  carried  across  by  ice-l)oats  in  winter,  nnd  passen- 
gers are  transported  by  the  same  perilous  route.  A  submarine  cable  un- 
derlies the  strait  at  this  point.  It  is  20  >1.  from  Cape  Traverse  to  St. 
Peter's  Island,  and  along  the  island  shores  are  the  villages  of  Tryon,  Cra- 
paud.  I)e  Sable,  and  Bonshaw.  On  passing  St.  Peter's  Island,  the  steamer 
enters  llillsfmr'uuyh  Bay  and  runs  N.,  with  Orwell  and  Pownal  Bays  open- 
ing on  the  E. 

"  Charlottetown  Harbor,  at  its  entrance  between  the  cl.lJb  ii'  Tilo-khonse 
and  Sea-Trout  Point,  is  450  fathoms  wide,  and,  in  sailii  ;  'k.  ■.  River 
running  northward,  the  Hillsborough  River  eastwardly,  aiia  u.o  Elnot  to  ^he 
westward,  surround  the  visitor  with  beautiful  effects,  and  ns  he  glides 
smoothly  over  t'  eir  confluence,  or  what  is  called  the  Three  Tides,  he  w  ill 
feel,  perh.  ,  •■,  thpt  he  has  seen  for  the  first  fme,  should  a  setting  sun  gild 
the  horizon,  ,  ^  :binaf;'on  of  color  and  effect  which  no  artist  could  ade- 
quately rf;)/a  >..  't." 

CharlotVQtC'V  a,  see  page  1"'. 

Of  late  years  the  steamboats  have  run  from  Point  du  Chene  to  Summer- 
side,  and  from  Pictou  to  Chariottetowui  but  not  between  Summerside  and 
Charlottetown. 


CHAULOTTETOWN. 


Jiouu  44-    1 75 


vn.— 


navipa- 
lunuuur- 

Iruvinj? 
iiic  Hiiy, 
'  E.,  and 
with  its 
lifleiiiue 
gnifying 

It  que,  or 
"ter  pass- 
with  the 


m  the  1., 
1(1  Strait. 
raverse, 
t  part  of 
passen- 
ble  un- 
rse  to  St. 
on,  Cra- 
steamer 
lys  open- 

';khoni»e 
Kiver 

(jt  to  ^he 

le  glides 
9,  he  w  ill 

sun  gild 
)uld  ade- 


Summer- 
rside  and 


44.    Picton  to  Prince  Edward  Island. 

To  Chitrlottttown. 

The  «fcamshipfl  leave  Pictou  for  (  harlottefown  dailv  {during  the  s(  nfloil 
of  mi\  i^atioii),  on  arrival  nf  the  morning  train  from  Halifax.  Faro,  f2.  The 
di'laiice  is  a  little  over  50  M. 

Soon  aftor  leaving  the  safe  and  pleasant  harbor  of  IMctoji,  Mie  <*t?amer 

:i|'pr   lehcs  Pictou  /shttul,  a  hilly  and  well-wooded  land  4  M.  long,  with  a 

i/'it! '  u«e  and  some  farms.     On  the  VV.  in  Carilton  Islaml,  consisting  of 

f  evoral  i>lct8  united  by  (-and-bars,  and  guarded  by  a  ligluliouse.    There  are 

leasant  views  of  the  receding  h'ghland.s  of  Nova  Scotia;  and  the  vessel 
moves  easily  through  the  quiet  waters  of  the  Nortiiumberland  Strait. 
"  Prince  Kdward  Island,  as  wo  approached  it,  had  a  pleasing  aspect,  and 
none  of  that  remote  friendlessncss  which  its  appearance  oi  the  map  con- 
veys to  one;  a  warm  and  sandy  land,  in  a  genial  climate,  without  fogs, 
we  are  informed." 

After  passing  (on  the  r.)  the  long  low  Point  Prim,  the  ste'imer  sweeps 
avfiund  to  the  N.  into  Hillsborough  Bay,  and  enters  the  harl  ir  of  Char- 
lottctown. 


Pictou  to  Georgetown. 

Steamships  leave  Pictou  for  Georgetown  every  Mondav;  leaving  George- 
town for  Pictou  Wednesdays.  Fare  from  port  to  port,  $2.  The  di  tance  is 
nearly  70  M.    In  winter  the  Stanley  runs  between  Pictou  and  Georgetown. 

The  chief  incidents  of  this  short  voyage  are  the  views  of  Pictou  f-^land; 
the  approach  to  Cape  Bear,  the  S.  E.  point  of  P.  E.  Island,  backed  by 
hills  200  ft.  high;  and  the  ascent  of  the  noble  sheet  of  Cardigan  Bnv,  be- 
twccm  Bough  toil  and  Panmure  Islands. 

Georgetowu,  see  page  181. 

45.   Charlottetown. 

Arrival.  —The  steamer  passes  between  St.  Peter's  Island  (1.) and  Govern or's 
Island  (r.)  and  ascends  Hillsborough  Bay  foi  about  6  M.  It  then  passes  betw. -en 
Blockhouse  Foint  (on  the  1.,  with  a  lighthouse)  and  Sea-Trout  Point,  uud  enters  he 
harbor  of  Charlottetown,  where  there  are  7-10  fathoms  of  water.  Powerful  «•  ir- 
VMit-i  :trp  fornu'd  liere  by  the  tides  of  the  IIillsborou«;h.  York,  and  Elliot  Rivers  i  or 
East,  North,  and  West  Rivers),  which  empty  into  this  basin. 

Uotels*  -  Oi!«borac>  House  \  Davies  llouee ;  liocklin. 

N«t;ii.kif*nii»s.  Ttio  Worci'nter  or  the  (drro/l  leaves  Charlottetown  everv' 
Tiinisdav  for  the  Strait  of  Canso,  Halifax,  and  Boston.  Fares:  Charlottetown  to 
Bostoa,  *7.50  ;  Halifax  to  Boston,  «7. 


t  .*1 


1'; 


i-;  ti 


176       Route  45. 


CHARLOTTETOWN. 


1 ; 


I 


U  '■ 


<t«7  < 


Stoamboats  run  between  (^harlottetnwn,  Point,  du  Chfine,  and  Pictou  (see  Routes 
4y  and  44).  Anotlur  boat  plit-s  about  tlie  bay  and  up  the  IlillsboroUs^h  River,  mak- 
ing also  trips  to  (Jrapaud  and  Urwcll,  Slie  runs  up  the  Hillsborough  River  to 
Mount  Stewart  on  .M"nda.v,  Tuesday,  Friday,  and  Saturday  ;  to  (Jrapaud  oa 
Wednesday  ;  and  to  Orwell  on  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  and  Tluirsday.  Smaller  .-teaiu- 
boatK  ply  between  ("harlottetown  ami  Orwell,  West  River,  Rocky  Point,  Veraoa* 
lUver  Bridge,  and  Murray  "b  Harbor  ;  and  to  Southport  every  hall  hour. 

CHARLOTTETOWN,  tlic  Capital  of  Priiice  Kdward  Island,  is  situated  on 
gently  rising  ground  on  the  N.  sido  of  tho  Hillsborough  River,  and  fronts 
on  a  good  harbor.  It  has  about  12,000  inhabitants,  with  2  daily  and  4 
•weekly  newspapers,  4  banks,  and  10  churches.  The  plan  of  the  city  is 
very  regular,  and  consists  of  (j  streets,  each  100  ft.  wide,  running  E.  and 
W.,  intersecting  9  streets  running  from  X.  to  S.     Tliere  are  4  squares. 

The  Provincial  Building  is  the  finest  structure  in  the  city.  It  stands 
on  Queen's  Square,  at  the  head  of  Great  George  St ,  and  is  built  of  Nova- 
Scotia  freestone  (at  a  cost  of  $  85,000).  The  halls  of  the  Legislative  Coun- 
cil and  House  of  Assembly  arc  on  the  second  floor,  and  are  handsomely 
furnished  and  adorned  with  portraits  of  the  statesmen  of  Prince  Edward 
Island.  On  the  same  floor  is  the  Colvnial  Library,  containing  a  good  col- 
lection of  books  relating  to  the  history,  laws,  and  physical  characteristics 
of  Canada  and  the  British  Empire.  A  pleasant  view  of  the  city  and  the 
rivers  may  be  obtained  from  the  cupola  of  the  building.  The  Post  Office 
is  also  on  Queen's  Square,  and  is  a  new  and  handsome  stone  building. 
Just  beyond  is  the  Market  House,  a  great  wooden  structure  covered  with 
shingles.  The  principal  shops  of  Charlottetown  are  about  Queen's  Square, 
and  offer  but  little  to  be  desired.  The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St. 
Dunstan  is  a  spacious  wooden  edifice  on  Great  George  St.,  near  the  Square. 

The  extens.ve  Convent  of  Notre  Dame  is  on  Hillsborough  Square,  and 
occupies  a  modern  brick  building.  The  Prince  of  Wales  College  and  the 
Normal  School  ai'e  on  Weymouth  St.,  in  this  vicinity. 

The  old  barracks  and  drill-shed  are  W.  of  Queen's  Square,  between 
Pownal  and  Sydney  Sts.,  and  are  fronted  by  a  parade-ground.  The  Gov- 
ernment House  is  on  a  point  of  land  W.  of  the  city,  and  overlooks  the 
harbor. 

In  1748  the  government  of  the  island  was  vested  in  civil  and  military  offlcera, 
whose  residence  wat  established  at  the  W.  entrance  to  the  harbor  of  Port  la  Joie 
(Charlottetown),  where  they  had  a  battery  and  a  small  garrison.  It  is  said  that  the 
first  Frencli  sailors  who  entered  the  inner  harbor  vere  so  pleased  with  its  tranquil 
leauty  that  'hey  nan.ed  it  Port  la  Joie.  There  were  no  houses  on  the  site  of  the 
city  in  1752.  The  harbor  was  held  by  three  British  frigates  in  1746,  but  was  ravageil 
by  200  Micuiacs  under  the  French  Ensign  Montesson.  Ail  the  Eng.ish  found  on  tlie 
Bliore  were  captured,  tut  the  Indians  refused  to  attack  the  war-vessels. 

In  17*J8  Morri  1  and  Deschanips  arrived  here  with  a  small  colony,  and  erected  huts. 
They  laid  out  the  streets  of  Charlottetown,  which  was  soon  established  as  the  capi- 
tal of  the  island.  In  1775  it  was  captured  by  two  Ameiican  war-vessels,  which  hud 
bi'cn  cruising  in  the  Gulf  to  carry  otf  the  Quebec  storeships.  The  sailors  plundered 
the  town,  and  led  away  several  local  dignitaries  as  prisoners,  but  Washington  lib- 
erated the  captives,  and  reprimanded  tlie  predatory  cruisers. 

Charlottetown  "  has  the  appearance  of  a  place  from  which  something  has  de- 
parted;  a  wooden  town,  with  wide  and  vacant  streets,  and  the  air  of  waiting  for 


(see  Routes 
Kiver,  mak- 
j^ti  River  to 
Jnipaud  oa 
iiller  ^team- 
ut,  Veraoa- 
r. 

situated  on 
and  frnnta 
iaily  and  4 
the  city  is 
ing  E.  and 
quares. 
,     It  stands 
lit  of  Nova- 
lative  Coun- 
handsomely 
nee  Edward 
g  a  good  col- 
laracteristics 
city  find  the 
le  Post  Office 
me  building, 
covered  with 
;cn's  Square, 
hedral  of  St. 
|r  the  Square. 
Square,  and 
liege  and  the 

lare,  between 
The  Gov- 
)verlooks  the 


Lilitary  officers, 
Jof  Port  la  Joie 
lis  said  that  tlie 
lith  its  tranquil 
Ithe  site  of  the 
lut  was  ravaged 
i\\  found  oa  the 

ks. 

td  erected  huts, 
lied  as  the  capi- 
Isels.  which  hud 
lilors  plundered 
Tashington  Ub- 

jiething  has  de- 
of  waiting  for 


ENVIRONS  OF  CHARLOTTETOWN.     Route  46.      1 77 

Bomething That  the  productive  island,  with  its  system  of  free  schools,  is  ahout 

to  enter  upon  a  prosperous  career,  and  that  (Iharlottetown  is  soon  to  heeonie  a  pliico 
of  threat  activity,  no  one  who  converses  witli  the  native-*  can  doubt,  and  I  think 
tliat  even  now  no  traveller  will  rej^ret  spcndinf?  an  hour  or  two  there;  but  it  is 
necessary  to  say  that  the  rosy  inducements  for  tourists  to  speud  the  »uumier  there 
exist  only  in  the  guide-books." 

Environs  of  Charlottetown. 

The  Wesleynn  College  is  on  an  eminence  buck  of  the  city,  and  overlooks 
the  harbor  and  the  rivers.  It  has  10  instructors  and  about  300  students. 
St.  Daiistan's  Col'rfje  is  a  Catholic  institution,  which  occupies  the  crest 
of  a  hill  1  M,  from  the  city,  and  has  4  professors.  There  are  several  pretty 
villas  in  the  vicinity  of  Charlottetown;  and  the  roads  are  very  good  during 
dry  weather.  Some  travellers  have  greatly  admired  the  rural  scenery  of 
these  suburban  roads,  but  others  have  reported  them  as  tame  and  uninter- 
esting. The  same  conflict  of  opinion  exists  with  regard  to  the  scenery  of 
the  whole  island. 

Southpovt  is  a  village  opposite  Charlottetown,  in  a  pretty  situation  on  the 
S.  shore  of  the  Hillsborough  River.     It  is  reached  by  a  steam  ferry-boat. 

3  M,  from  this  place  is  the  eminence  called 
Tea  Ilill^  whence  a  pleasing  view  of  the  parish  and  the  bay  may  be  ob- 
tained. A  few  miles  beyond  is  the  village  of  Pownal^  at  the  head  of 
Townal  Bay,  and  in  a  region  prolific  in  oats  and  potatoes. 

46.    Charlottetown  to  Summerside  and  Tignish.  —  The 
Western  Shores  of  Prince  Edward  Island. 

This  region  is  traversed  by  the  Prince  Kdward  Island  Railway,  a  narrow-gauge 
road  built  by  the  Canadian  government.     This  line  was  opened  late  in  IS74. 

Express  trains  run  from  Charlottetown  to  Summerside  in  2^  houi-s;  to  Tignish 
in  U  houis. 

.•^tulions.  —Charlottetown  to  Pt  Bnnstan's.  2  :  Cemotery.  4 ;  T?nvaUv  .Innction, 


CoMwav,  77:   Portage,  HO;  Rrae.  HO  :  O'Lenrv,  RO :  Rlnoinflold,  05 ;  Elmsdale,  100; 
Alberton,  104  ;  Montrose,  108  ;  De  lUois,  112.V;  Tignish,  117. 

After  leaving  the  commodious  station-building,  in  the  E,  part  of  Ch;ir- 
lottetowu,  tiie  train  sweeps  around  the  city,  turning  to  the  N,  from  the 
hank  of  the  Hillsborough  River,  The  snl)url)an  villas  are  soon  passed,  and 
the  line  traverses  a  level  country  to  Roijaltij  Junction^  where  the  track** 
to  Souris  and  Georgetown  (see  Route  47)  diverge  to  the  N.  E.  The  train 
now  enters  the  main  line,  and  runs  W,  through  a  fertile  farming  country, 
—  "a  sort  of  Arcadia,  in  which  Shenstono  would  have  delighted."  The 
hamlets  are  sniiill  and  the  dwellings  are  very  })laiii,  but  it  is  expected  that 
the  stations  of  the  new  rii  Iway  wdl  become  the  inu'lei  of  future  villages. 
The  train  soon  crosses  the  head-waters  of  the  York  River,  and  reaches  A^ 
Wiltshire^  beyond  which  is  a  line  of  low  hills,  extending  across  the  island. 
4  M.  beyond  th"s  point  is  the  station  of  Hunter  River,  whence  a  mucli- 


?- 
'»"• 


I: 

9' 


i>.  -  ,»';:•■,:< 


i<  I    "i     .  ■ 

r  ..I.'  •' 


1 78      Rimtc  46. 


RUSTICO. 


trnvellod  road  lends  to  tlio  N.  to  Now  (ihippjow  nnd  Rustico,  locally  famoua 
lor  pleasant  iiiariiic  scciicrv. 

Rustico  is  a  ([ii Ct  niarino  scttlcincnt,  with  two  cliurrhos  nnd  a  bank, 
and  altoiit  yoo  iiilial)itaiits.  It  is  near  (hand  Hustico  Harbor,  and  is  ono 
of  tlu(  (diici'  (isliino;  stations  of  the  N.  shore.  'I  lie  orij^inal  settlers  were 
Acadians  (in  the  year  1710),  many  of  whose  descendants  remain  in  tho 
township,  and  are  peaeeiul  and  nnpr();^n^ssive  citizens,  llie  i^casiiU'  Hotel 
(40  jinests)  is  ii  snniU  sunnner  hotel  near  the  sand-hills  of  the  heach;  and 
the  facilities  for  boat in<r,  i)athin<:,  rishin<:,  and  gniminj::^  are  said  to  bo  ex- 
cellent. The  griMit  fleets  of  the  (lulf  (ishermen  are  sometimes  seen  olF 
these  shores.  Ther(^  is  a  pleasant  drive  np  the  Ilimter  IJiver  to  Nvto  Glaa- 
goir  (l\a(dvein's  inn),  whi(di  was  settled  by  men  of  Glasj^ow,  nnder  Alex- 
ander (%)rma(d<,  the  Newfonndland  explorer,  in  1S21>.  Ihe  Uimter  Hiver 
affords  jrood  trotitinf;.  Orand  Rustico  Harbor  is  rendered  unsafe  by  shift- 
in;::  l>'>'s  «>f  sand.  On  the  coast  to  the  N.  W.  are  the  hamlets  of  N.  Kus- 
tico^md  Cavendi^-h. 

Fron>  Comity-I/me  Junction  diverges  the  Cape-Traverse  Branch  Railway 
(one  train  daily). 

Ken. fin  (/Ion  station  is  abont  41  M.  from  Cluirlottetown,  and  is  near  the  petty 
hamlet  of  the  same  name.  To  the  N.  E.  is  Grenville  Harbor,  with  the  estu- 
aries of  three  rivers,  the  chief  of  which  is  tho  Stanley.  There  are  several 
maritime  hamlets  on  these  shores,  and  on  the  W.  is  New  London,  a  neat 
Scottish  settlement  with  two  churches.  A  road  also  leads  N.  W.  from 
Kensiniiton  to  Prinrefoirv,  a  vilhifre  of  40o  inhabitants,  situated  on  tho 
j)eninsnla  betwe(Mi  Kicdimond  Bay,  March  Water,  and  the  Darnley  Basin. 
This  town  was  laid  out  (in  1700)  with  broad  streets  and  scpuires,  and  was 
intended  for  the  metropolis  of  the  N.  coast,  but  the  exp((ctations  of  the 
povermnent  were  never  realized,  and  "  the  ploujrhshare  still  turns  np  the 
sod,  where  it  was  intended  the  busy  thoroughfare  should  be."  Malpecpui 
Harbor  is  the  finest  and  safest  on  the  N.  shore  of  Trince  Edward  Island. 
A  few  miles  E.  are  the  lofty  sandstone  (diffs  of  Cape  Tryon,  near  New  I^on- 
don  harbor.  I'rincetown  fronts  on  Rivhmond  Bay,  a  capacious  haven 
which  runs  in  to  the  S.  W.  for  10  M.,  ami  contains  7  islands.  Travellers 
have  praised  the  beauty  of  the  road  from  I*rincetown  to  I'ort  Hill,  which 
afTords  many  pleasant  views  over  tla^  bay. 

Beyond  Kensington  the  train  runs  S.  W.  across  the  rural  plains  of  St. 
David's  Parish,  nnd  passes  out  on  the  isthmus  between  Richmond  liay  and 
Bedecpie  Bay,  where  the  island  is  only  3-1  M.  wide.  9  M.  from  Kensing- 
ton it  reaches  Sninmerside. 

Summerside  (}f(iirlei/  FTotnn' ;  CnrnphvU's  Hotel),  on  Bedecpie  Harbor, 
is  a  f<iwn  of  about  ',\S)(\0  inhabitants,  with  8  cluirches,  5  schools,  2  weeklv 


I  ti  I. 


liewspajters,  inid  1  lianks.  n  is  uie  prifi  Vviience  nio^i  oi  nie  iiruuiicis  oi 
the  W.  part  o(  the  island  are  sent  out.  and  has  grown  rapidly  of  late  years. 
The  chief  exports  in  1882  were  GOO,()U()  bushels  of  oats,  110,000  bushels  of 


it 


SUMMERSIDE. 


Route  46.       179 


nlly  fnmouB 

iind  a  h'.xuk, 
and  is  Olio 
I't tiers  \v<'re 
main  in  tlio 
tunulc  Ihittl 
Ix'iu-li;  and 
d  to  bo  cx- 
los  soon  otr 
o  Nc  10  Gliis- 
luidei-  Alcx- 
[iinter  Uiver 
ifc  In'  sliift- 
^  of  N.  Kiis- 

iich  Hailwa) 

icar  the  petty 
,'ith  the  estu- 
:;  arc  several 
>n(hm,  a  neat 
N.  W.  from 
iited  on  the 
•uloy  Basin. 
?s,  and  was 
itions  of  the 
iinis  up  the 
iMali)e(pie 
ward  Islaiuh 
r  New  Lon- 
icious  haven 
Travellers 
Hill,  which 

)laiiis  of  St. 
ond  Hay  and 
oni  Kensing- 

(pie  Harbor, 
lis,  2  weekly 
prodiKts  oi 
)f  liite  years. 
0  bushels  of 


potatoes,  10,300  bnsliels  of  barley,  86,450  dozen  of  ewpjs,  and  4,337  barrels 
of  the  famous  Hodeqiie  oysters.  The  wlmrvcis  are  lonj^,  in  order  to  reaeli 
the  deep  water  of  the  ehannel;  and  the  houses  of  the  town  are  mostly 
small  wood(Mi  hnildin(|^s. 

The  *  /gland  Purk  Hotel  is  a  sntniner  resort  on  an  islet  off  the  harbor, 
ami  is  ])!itroni/((d  l)y  American  tourists.  There  are  aeconnnodations  for 
fishin<^and  bathinj;,  and  a  steam  (erry-boat  plies  between  the  island  and 
tlu;  town.  The  hotel  commands  a  pleasant  view  of  the  Bedequo  shores 
and  the  Strait  of  Northumberland  (it  has  been  closed  for  gome  years). 

"Tlds  little  Wfaport  Is  int«.'n(lt!(l  to  b«  attrtwtive,  and  It  would  (iflve  these  traveller* 
proat  pleasure  to  describo  it  it  they  could  at  all  riMneuiltor  in»\v  it  looks.  But  it  is  a 
p.ace  tliiit,  like  soiiu;  tiwes,  innkeH  no  sort  ot  iiii|)ri'Ksiou  on  the  uuiuory.  We  went 
Hshore  there,  and  tried  to  take  an  iiitcrc^st  in  tue  sliiphniidui}^,  and  in  the  little 
oystiTS  which  the  hirbor  yields ;  but  whether  we  did  take  an  inti'iest  or  not  iias 
paswd  out  of  memory  A  small,  uniaituresijuc,  wo';den  town,  in  the  languor  of  a 
provincial  suniincr;  why  should  we  iiret.<'nd  an  intercut  in  it  wiiich  we  did  not  teel? 
It  did  not  disturb  our  reposeful  frame  of  mind,  nor  much  interfere  witli  our  eigoy- 
uieut  of  the  day."     (Wahnkus  Baddeck.) 

Steamboats  run  across  the  Strait  of  North nmberhind  to  Point  du  Clj§ne, 
leaving  Suinmerside  at  8  A.  M.  daily. 

On  leaving  Summerside,  the  train  runs  out  to  the  W.,  over  a  level  region. 
To  the  N.  is  the  hamlet  o(  St.  Eleanors  (Kllison's  Hotel),  a  place  of  400  in- 
habitants, situated  in  a  rich  farming  country.  Itenjoys  the  honorof  being 
the  shire-town  of  Prince  County,  and  Is  about  2^  M.  from  Summerside. 
3  M.  from  St.  Eleanors  Is  the  rural  vilhige  of  Miscuuche,  inhabited  by 
French  Acadians.  Wellin«jt(m  (Western  Hotel)  Is  a  small  hamlet  and 
station  12  M.  beyond  Summerside,  near  the  head  of  the  Grand  Kiver,  which 
flows  into  liichmond  Bay.  The  Acadian  settlements  about  Cape  Kgmont 
are  a  few  miles  to  the  S.  W. 

The  line  passes  on  to  Port  IIlll,  a  prosperous  shipbuilding  village  on 
lliciimoiid  Bay.  Near  this  |)hice  is  Limnox  Island^  which  is  reserved  for 
tlie  Micmae  Imiians,  and  is  inhabited  by  about  150  persons  of  that  triije. 
H('t\v<'eii  the  bay  and  the  tjulf  of  St.  Lawrence  Is  George  Island,  which  is 
composed  of  trnp-rock  and  amygdaloid,  and  is  regarded  as  a  curious  geo- 
loirjciii  intrusion  in  the  red  sandstone  formations  of  the  Prince-Kdward 
shores.  The  train  runs  N.  VV.  over  the  islhmus  between  the  Cavendish 
Inlet  and  tlie  Percival  and  Eiimore  Rivers,  and  soon  enters  the  North 
I'arisli.  This  region  is  thinly  Inhabited  by  French  and  British  settlers, 
niKJ  is  one  of  the  least  prosperous  portions  of  the  island.  The  line  passes 
iieiir  Broe,  a  settlement  of  800  Scotch  farmers,  near  the  trout-abounding 
slrenms  of  the  Parish  of  Halifax.  To  the  S.  W,  is  the  se(|uestered  marine 
liaiiilet  of  Wiit  JUrint,  where  a  town  has  b(!en  laid  out  and  preparations 
ni;ide  for  a  commerce  which  does  not  come.  The  coast  tr«tids  N.  by  E. 
ti  .M.  tioni  We^t  Point  to  Cape  Wolfe,  whence  it  runs  N.  K.  by  E.  27  At  ^o 
Nortii  Point,  in  a  long  unl)roken  strand  of  red  clay  and  sandstone  cliffs. 

Alberton  {AlOion  Jlouac),  one  of  the  norti  ern  termini  of  the  railway, 
is  a  prosperous  village  of  800  inhabitants,   with  five  churches  and  uu 


i 


I 


i 


i*  -' 


l'\: 


m'^m 


'i 


180      Route  47. 


TIGNISH. 


\ 


?  >  ;  • 


'f  • '. 


Americnn  consular  agency.  It  is  situated  on  Cascumpec  i  harbor,  and  is 
engaj;;ed  in  sliipbuildiiig  and  tlio  fisheries.  The  American  lishing-schooners 
often  talie  relnge  in  this  harbor.  Tiie  neighboring  rural  districts  are  fer- 
tile and  thickly  populated,  and  produce  large  (luantities  of  oats  and  pota- 
toes. This  town  was  the  birthplace  of  the  (Gordons,  the  heroic  mission- 
aries at  Kromanga,  one  of  whom  was  martyred  in  IbGl,  the  otiier  in 
lb72.  S.  of  Alherton  is  Holland  Uay,  which  was  named  in  honor  of  him- 
self by  Major  Holland,  the  English  surveyor  of  the  island;  and  6-8  M.  N. 
is  Cape  KiUlare. 

Tignish  (lit/dn's  Hotel)  is  the  extreme  northern  point  reached  by  the 
railway,  atul  is  117  M.  from  Charlottetown.  It  has  about  200  inhabitants, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  iniportant  fishing-stations  on  the  island.  The  in- 
habitants are  mostly  French  and  Scotch,  and  support  a  Catholic  church 
and  convent.  There  are  several  other  French  villages  in  tliis  vicinity, 
concerning  which  the  historian  of  the  island  says:  "They  are  all  old  set- 
tlemouts.  The  nationality  of  the  i)eoi)le  has  kept  them  together,  until 
their  fiirms  are  subdivided  into  small  portions,  and  their  dwellings  are 
numerous  and  close  together.  Few  are  skilful  farmers.  Many  prefer  to 
obtain  a  living  by  fishing  rather  than  farming.  They  are  simple  and  in- 
oflensive  in  their  manners;  quiet  and  uncomplaining,  and  easily  satisfied. 
The  peculiarities  of  their  race  are  not  yet  extinct;  and  under  generous 
treatment  and  superior  training,  the  national  enteri)riso  and  energy,  polite- 
ness and  refinement,  would  gradually  be  restored." 

North  Point  is  about  8  I\I.  N.  of  Tignish,  and  is  reached  by  a  sea-view- 
ing road  among  the  sand-dunes.  It  has  a  lighthouse,  which  sustams  u 
powerful  light,  and  is  an  important  point  in  the  navigation  of  the  Gulf. 


47.  Charlottetown  to  Georgetown. 

By  the  Pvince  Edward  Island  Railway. 

Stations.  —  Charlottotowu ;  Royalty  Junction,  5  M. ;  Mount  Stewart,  22;  Car- 
digan, 40 ;  Georgetown,  46. 


Beyond  Royalty  Junction  the  train  diverges  to  the  N.  E.,  and  follows  the 
course  of  the  Hillsborough  Kiver,  though  generally  at  some  distance  from 
the  shore.  The  banks  of  this  stream  are  the  most  favored  part  of  that 
prosperous  land  of  which  Dr.  Cuyler  says:  ''It  is  one  rich,  rolling,  aralde 
farm,  from  Cape  East  clear  up  to  Cape  North."  As  early  as  1758  there  were 
2.000  French  colonists  about  this  river.  The  Hillsborough  is  30  M.  long, 
and  the  tide  ascends  for  20  M.  Much  produce  is  shipped  from  these  shores 
during  the  autumnal  months.  About  8  M.  beyond  the  Junction  the  line 
crosses  French  Fort  Creek,  on  whose  banks  the  French  troops  erected  a 
fortification  to  nrotect  the  short  nnrtncn  (^h  ^\.\  sif-rosa  thf>  iRliind.  from 
the  river  to  Tracadio  Harbor.     Here  the  military  domination  was  surren- 

1  Cascumpec,  an  Indian  word,  meaning  "  Flowing  through  Sand." 


GEORGETOWN. 


JiouU  47.      181 


3r,  nnd  i9 
.(•hooners 
s  tiro  (er- 
iiid  pot  11- 
missioii- 
otlicr  in 
r  of  liiiu- 
-8  M.  N. 

id  by  the 
mbitants, 
The  in- 
ic  church 
\  vicinity, 
11  old  set- 
her,  until 
iUings  are 
•  prefer  to 
le  and  in- 
j  satisfied. 
■  generous 
■gy,  polite- 

sea-view- 
;ustanis  a 
Gulf. 


rt,  22 ;  Car- 

ollows  the 
ance  from 
rt  of  tliat 
ng,  araido 
[here  were 
0  M.  long, 

ese  shores 
n  the  line 

erected  a 
n.und,  from 

IS  surren- 


dered to  the  British  expeditionary  forces.  At  Scotch  Fort  the  French  l)uilt 
the  first  churcii  on  tiie  island,  and  the  earliest  Hritish  settlers  located. 
From  the  lofty  hill  at  St.  Andrews  a  beautiful  view  is  obtained  over  a  rich 
rural  country. 

The  Lome  House  (100  guests,  S7-10  a  week),  at  Tracadie,  is  a  favorite 
summer  resort,  4  M.  from  Bedford  station,  facing  the  outlet  of  Ht-dford 
Bay,  near  grassy  sand  hills,  along  sea-swept  bathing  beach,  "the  stain- 
less sands  of  Tracadie's  high  reef,"  the  lighthouse  on  tin;  point,  etc.  Good 
fishing  and  shooting  in  the  vicinity,  which  is  a  rich  farming  country. 

Mount  Stewart  is  a  prosperous  little  shipbuilding  village.  The  train 
crosses  the  river  at  this  point,  and  at  Mount  Stewart  .Junction  it  turns 
to  the  S.  Iv,  while  the  Souris  Railway  diverges  to  the  N.  E.  The  country 
which  is  now  travorscil  is  thinly  settled,  and  lies  about  the  head-waters  of 
the  Morrell  and  I'isquid  IJivers.  There  are  several  small  lakes  in  this 
region,  and  forests  are  seen  on  either  hand.  At  Carditjan  {^mvaW  inn)  the 
line  reaches  the  head-waters  of  the  eastern  rivers.  A  road  leads  hence  to 
the  populous  settlements  on  the  Vernon  River  and  Powiuil  Bay. 

Georgetown  ( Comniercud  Hotel)  is  the  capital  of  King's  County,  and 
has  about  800  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  tlie  long  {)eninsula  between 
the  Cardigan  and  Brudenelle  Rivers,  and  its  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on 
the  island,  l)eing  deep  and  secure,  and  the  last  to  be  closed  by  ice.  The 
county  buildings,  academy,  and  Episcopal  church  are  on  Kent  Square. 
The  chief  business  of  the  town  is  in  the  exportation  of  produce,  and  ship* 
building  is  carried  on  to  some  extent.  The  town  is  well  laid  out,  but  its 
growth  has  been  very  slow.  Steamers  ply  between  this  port,  IMctou,  and 
the  Magdalen  Islands  (see  Routes  44  and  49).  The  harbor  is  reached  by 
ascending  Cardigan  Hay  and  passing  the  lighthouses  on  Panmure  Head 
and  St.  Andrew's  Point. 

Mont(i</ne  Bvhhje  (Montague  House)  is  reached  from  Georgetown  by  {> 
ferry  of  6  M.  and  11  M.  of  staging.  It  has  350  inb.abitants  and  several 
mills.  To  the  S.  E.  is  St.  Mary's  Bay.  About  20  M.  S.  of  Georgetown  is 
Murray  Harbor^  on  which  there  are  several  Scottish  villages.  From  Cape 
Bear  the  coast  trends  W.  for  27  M.  to  Point  Prim. 


"  No  land  can  boast  more  rich  supply. 
That  e'er  was  found  beneath  the  sky  ; 
No  purer  streams  have  ever  Howod, 
Since  Ileavea  that  bounteous  gift  bestowed. 


And  herrinsr,  like  a  mighty  Wost, 

And  cod  and  mackerel,  crowd  the  coast." 


V 

I' 


*'  In  this  fine  island,  lonj?  noirlected, 
Much,  it  is  thoucrht,  miffht  be  effected 
By  industry  and  (ipplication, — 
Sources  of  wealth  with  every  aatiou." 


1S2      Route  48. 


ST.   PETER'S. 


48.   Gharlottetown  to  Souris. 

By  the  Prince  Edward  IsluTid  Railway. 

StHtionx.  —  Cliarldttotowii ;  Royalty  Junction,  5  M. ;  Mount  Stewart,  22 ;  Mor- 
rell,30;  St.  Peter's,  88i  ;  Harmony,  65  ;  Souris,  GOi- 

Chiirlottetown  to  Mount  Stewart,  sec  piif^e  181. 

At  Mount  Stewart  .Tunetion  the  train  diverges  to  the  N.  E.,  and  soon 
reaches  Murrell,  a  fhshing-station  on  the  Morrell  River,  near  St.  Peter'3 
Bay. 

St.  Peter's  (Prairie  ILtd)  was  from  the  first  the  most  important  port 
on  the  N.  shore  of  the  island,  on  account  of  its  rich  sahnon-fisheries. 
About  the  year  1750  the  French  government  endeavored  to  restrict  the 
fishing  of  the  ishind,  and  to  stimulate  its  agriculture,  by  closing  all  the 
ports  except  St.  Peter's  and  Tracadie.  The  village  is  now  quite  small, 
though  the  sahnon-fisherv  is  valuable.  St.  Peter's  Bav  runs  7  M.  into 
the  land,  but  it  is  of  little  use.  since  there  is  oidy  5  ft.  of  water  on  its 
sandy  bar.  From  this  inlet  to  East  Point  the  shore  is  unbroken,  and  is 
formed  of  a  line  of  red  sandstone  clifis,  33  M.  long. 

"  The  sea-trout  fishing,  in  the  bays  and  harbors  of  Prince  Edward  Island,  espe- 
cially in  .Tunc,  when  tlie  fish  first  rush  in  from  the  gulf,  is  really  magnificent.  They 
average  from  3  to  5  pounds  each.  I  found  the  best  fishing  at  St.  Peter's  Bay,  on 
the  N.  side  of  tlic  island,  about  28  M.  from  Charlottetown.  I  there  liilled  in  one 
morning  16  trout,  which  weighed  80  pounds.  In  the  bays  and  along  the  coasts  of 
the  island  they  are  taken  with  the  scarlet  fly,  fvom  a  boat  under  easy  sail,  with  a 
'  mackerel  breeze.'  and  sometimes  a  heavy  '  ground  swell.'  The  fly  skips  from  wave 
to  wave  at  the  end  of  30  yards  of  line,  and  there  should  be  at  least  70  yards  more  on 
the  reel.  It  is  sphmdid  sport,  as  a  strong  fish  will  make  sometimes  a  long  run,  and 
give  a  good  chase  down  the  wind  "   (Pebley.) 

Harmony  station  is  near  Polio  Bay,  which  was  named  in  honor  of  Lord 
Rollo,  who  occupied  the  island  with  British  troops  in  1758.  There  is  a 
small  hamlet  on  this  bay;  and  to  the  S.  W.  are  the  Gaelic  settlements  of 
Dundas,  Bridgetown,  and  Annandale,  situated  on  the  Grand  River. 

Souris  (three  inns)  is  a  vilhige  of  Catholic  Highlanders,  pleasantly 
situated  on  tlie  N.  side  of  Colville  Bay,  and  divided  into  two  portions  by 
the  Souris  River.  The  harbor  is  shallow,  but  is  being  improved  by  a  break- 
water. The  shore-fishing  is  pursued  in  fleets  of  dories,  and  most  of  the 
produce  of  the  adjacent  country  is  shipped  from  Souris  to  the  French  Isle 
of  St.  Pierre  (see  page  185).  There  is  a  long  sandy  beach  on  the  W.  of  the 
village,  and  on  the  S.  and  E.  is  a  bold  headland.  Souris  was  settled  by 
the  Acadians  in  1748;  and  now  contains  about  500  inhabitants. 

The  East  Parish  extends  for, several  leagues  E.  of  Souris,  and  includes 
the  sea-shore  hamlets  of  Red  Point,  Bothweli,  East  Point,  North  Lake,  and 
Fairfield.  The  East  and  North  Lakes  are  long  and  shallow  lagoons  on  the 
coast.    East  Point  is  provided  with  a  first-class  fixed  light,  which  is  130 


ft.  aliovc  lilt;  sea  and  is  vjsil/le  iur  io  ux.     utcaniOuiits  piv  oelVveeu  tjOuriSi 
Georgetown,  and  Pictou. 


11^ 


MAGDALEN   ISLANDS. 


Route  49.       1 8"3 


rds  more  oa 


iCii   oOuiis, 


49.    The  Magdalen  Islands. 

These  remote  islands  are  sometimes  visited,  during  tiie  summer,  by  flsliing-par- 
ties,  wiio  flud  rare  sport  in  catcliinfj;  tlie  wtiite  sea-tri)iit  that  abound  in  the  vicinity. 
The  acconnnod.itions  for  visitors  are  of  the  most  primitive  liind,  but  many  detects 
are  atoned  for  by  tlie  liospitahty  of  the  ^Hiople. 

The  mail-«t»'ampr  f'cnrtr  leaves  Picton  Landing  for Genrpetown  and  Sonrls(P.  E. 
I.),  and  tlie  Ma^^dalen  Islands  every  Monday  after  the  arrival  of  the  Halifax  ex- 
press. See  S.  (i  W.  Henjuniirs  di'linhtful  description  of  the  Magdaleu  Islands,  in 
I'/t"  (\')ifiirf/  M<t(i(ir.itti\  Apiii,  1884. 

Fares.  —  Halifax  to  Port  Hood,  S  4.60  ;  to  Ceorgetown,  .S  4  10  ;  to  the  Magdalen 
Islands,  !|?  8.  Further  particulars  may  be  obtained  by  addressing  James  King,  mail- 
contractor,  Halifax. 

The  Magdalen  Islands  are  tlilrtoen  in  number,  and  are  situated  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  50  M.  from  East  Point  (P.  E.  I.), 
60  M.  from  Cape  North  (C.  B.),  120  M.from  Cape  Ray  (N.  F,),  and  150  M. 
from  Gaspd.  When  they  are  first  seen  from  the  sea,  they  present  the  ap- 
pearance of  well-detached  islets,  but  on  a  nearer  approach  several  of  them 
are  seen  to  be  connected  with  each  other  by  double  lines  of  sandy  beaches, 
fiirminj?  broad  and  quiet  salt-water  lagoons.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly 
Acadian  fishermen  (speaking  French  only),  devoted  to  the  pursuit  of  the 
immense  schools  of  cod  and  mackerel  that  visit  the  neighboring  waters. 
At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  the  harbors  and  lagoons  are  filled  with 
hundreds  of  sail  of  fishing-vessels,  most  of  which  are  American  and  Pro- 
vincial. Seal-hunting  is  carried  on  here  with  much  success,  as  extensive 
fields  of  ice  drift  down  against  the  shores,  bearing  myriads  of  seals.  On 
one  occasion  over  6,000  seals  were  killed  here  in  less  than  a  fortnight  by 
parties  going  out  over  the  ice  from  the  shore.  This  is  also  said  to  be  the 
best  place  in  America  for  the  lobster  fishery,  and  a  Portland  company  has 
recently  founded  a  canning  establishment  here.  On  account  of  their 
abundant  returns  in  these  regards  the  Magdalen  Islands  have  received  the 
fitting  title  of  "  The  Kingdom  of  Fish."  In  order  to  protect  these  interests 
the  Dominion  armed  cutter  La  Canadlenne  usually  spends  the  summer  in 
these  waters,  to  prevent  encroachments  by  Americans  and  Frenchmen. 

Amhsrst  Island  is  the  chief  of  the  group,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  principal 
village,  the  custom  house,  and  the  public  buildings.  On  its  S.  point  is  a 
red-and-white  revolving  light  which  is  visible  for  20  M. ;  and  the  hills  in  the 
interior,  550  ft.  high,  are  seen  from  a  great  distance  by  day.  Tlie  village  has 
3  churches  and  the  court-house,  and  is  situated  on  a  small  harbor  which 
opens  on  the  S.  of  Pltasant  Bay,  a  broad  and  secure  roadstead  where  hun- 
dreds of  vessels  sometimes  weather  heavy  storms  in  safety.  1  M.  N.  W. 
of  the  village  is  the  singular  conical  hill  called  the  Demohdle  (280  ft.  high), 
whence  the  bay  and  a  great  part  of  the  islands  may  be  seen. 

Grindstone  Island  is  5-6  M.  N.  of  Amherst,  and  is  coimected  with  it 
by  a  double  line  of  sand-beaches,  which  enclose  the  wide  lagoon  called 
Basque  Harbor.  It  is  5  M  long,  and  has  a  central  hill  550  ft.  high,  while 
on  the  W.  shore  is  the  lofty  conical  promontory  of  sandstone  which  the 


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184      Route  49.  MAGDALEN   ISLANDS. 

Acadinns  call  Cap  rh  Mcide.  On  the  same  side  is  the  thriving  hamlot  of 
L' ktnut}  (III  Nnnl.  On  tlio  K.,  iiml  coMtiiiiiinu  7  s(|U!ire  niilc's,  is  Alright 
Island,  iei-niiii:it<'(l  by  the  grayish-white  dills  of  Cape  Ali'ii^ht,  over  400 
ft.  hifjli.  A  saml-beac'h  runs  X.  V..  It)  M.  from  (jrin.lstone  to  Wolf  Island, 
a  sandstone  rock  '■{  M.  loiifj;;  and  another  beaeh  rnns  tlienci!  1)  M.  farther 
to  the  N.  K.  to  Grosse  Jtildiid, on  tlie  (Jrand  Lagoon.  Tiiis  island  has  another 
line  of  lofty  (dills  of  sandstone,  'I'o  the  K.  is  CoJJin  Jslaml,  and  4  M.  N.  is 
Bnjon  Idmid,  beyond  \vhi(di  are  tho  Bird  Isles. 

Entry  Island  lies  to  tho  K.  of  Amherst  Island,  off.  the  entrance  to 
Pleasant  Bay,  and  is  the  most  picturesque  of  tlie  gronp  Near  the  centre 
is  a  hill  5S0  ft.  hif;h,  visible  for  25  M.,  and  from  whose  summit  the 
whole  Magdalen  group  can  be  overlooked.  The  wonderful  cliffs  of  red 
sandstone  which  line  tho  shores  of  this  island  are  very  picturesque  in  their 
etTect,  and  reach  a  height  of  400  ft. 

Deadman's  Isle  is  a  ruggeil  rock  8  M.  W.  of  Amherst,  and  derives  its 
name  from  the  fancied  resemblance  of  its  contonr  to  that  of  n  corp:«e  laid 
out  for'  burial.  While  passing  this  rock,  in  1804,  Tom  Moore  wrote  tho 
poem  which  closes: 


"  There  lictli  a  wrt'cl<  on  tlic  dismal  sliore 
Of  cold  mui  pitiless  Liil)radoi-, 
Wlicre,  under  tho  moon,  upon  mounts  of 

frost, 
Full  nmny  a  mariner's  bones  are  tossed. 

"Yon  shndowy  bark  linth  been  to  that  wreck, 
And  the  din'i  blue  tire  thut  lifihts  her  deck 


Dotli  piny  on  na  pole  nnd  livid  a  crew 
As  e\  er  yet  dtiink  the  churcliyard  dew. 

"  To  Detidmnn'R  Isle  in  the  eye  of  the  hlnst, 
To  l)c;:diiiin's  Isle  she  si)eids  lier  fust  ; 
By  ,'<keletii)i  shtipes  her  sails  nre  furled. 
And   the  hand  thut  steers  is  not  of  tliis 
world." 


The  Bird  Isles  arc  two  bare  rocks  of  red  sandstone,  \  M.  apart,  the  chief 
of  which  is  known  as  Ganiiet  Rock,  and  Is  1,300  ft.  long  and  100-140  ft. 
high,  lined  with  vertical  cliffs.  These  isles  are  haunted  by  immense  num- 
bers of  sea-birds,  gannets,  guillemots,  puflhis,  kitti  wakes,  and  razor-billed 
auks.  "  No  other  bveeding-place  on  our  shore  is  so  remarkable  at  once 
for  the  number  and  variety  of  the  species  occupying  it."  Immense  quan- 
tities of  eggs  are  carried  thence  by  the  Islanders,  but  to  a  less  extent  than 
foi'merly. 

This  great  natural  curiosity  was  visited  in  lfi32  by  the  Jesuits  (who  called  the  rocks 
Les  Colotitbiers),  by  Ilcriot  in  18U7,  by  Audubon,  and  in  18(50  by  Dr.  Bryan.  The 
Dominion  lias  roccntl\  erected  a  lighthouse  hcrcat  greiitexpen.sc,and  to  tlie  imniinent 
peril  of  tho.-e  engaged  in  the  work,  since  tliere  is  no  landing-place,  and  in  breezy 
weather  the  surf  tliislies  violently  against  the  chlTs  all  around.  The  tower  bears  a 
fixed  white  light  of  the  fir,-t  class,  which  is  vi  iblc  for  21  M. 

Ch!irlevoi.\  vitited  thes-e  inlands  in  1720,  and  wondered  how, "  in  such  a  Multitude 
of  Nests,  every  IJird  inuncdiately  fii;ds  her  own  We  fired  a  Gun,  which  gave  the 
Alarm  thro"  fill  this  Hying  Con'nonwealth,  and  there  was  formed  above  the  two 
Islands,  a  thick  Cloud  of  these  Birds,  which  was  at  least  two  or  three  Leagues 
around."' 

The  Magdalen  Islands  were  visited  by  Cartier  in  1534,  but  the  first  permanent  sta- 
tion was  loundcd  here  in  1(H3  by  a  (omiany  of  Honllcur  mariners,  to  whom  the 
islands  were  comeded  by  the  Coirpany  of  New  France  In  1720  the  Duchess  of 
Orleans  granted  thcni  to  the  Count  de  l^t.  Pierre.  In  17G3  they  were  inliabited  by 
10  Acadian  families,  and  In  1167  a  Bostonian  named  Gridley  founded  on  Amherst 


ST.   PIERRE  AND  MIQUELON.     /?<>»"^  60.      185 


T«lnn(t  an  cstdbHshment  for  traillnt?  and  for  f.ho  neal  and  walrus  fisheries.  During 
the  llovolutioii  Aiueriiaii  privatftrs  vi-itL-il  tlui  l.^iaIltls,  uiid  tle,stro\i'd  t'Vorvtiiiiijj; 
accrstJi'iilc.  (iiidlcy  rt'tiirniMl  iiftor  tlit;  w,ir,  Imt  tho  walruM  soon  liccaiue  extiint, 
and  the  i-tlandci-.s  tnrncd  tlicir  attention  to  tin;  coil  and  lu-rrinj^  tlslu;ri»)s,  Wlicn 
Admiral  Coiiin  nrcivvd  his  grant  tiifio  wcrti  lOD  tiiiniiii's  iurc;  in  1H81  tiiure  wern 
1,001)  inlialiifants;  and  tin;  imv-cnt  pnpnliition  is  almnt  ,'5.;)(t(».  hi  tlic  mean  tinio 
thrco  colonics  liavc  iiccn  t'onndcd  and  populated  fVani  these  islands,  on  Liiinwlor  and 
the  N.  sliore.  The  Lord's-Day  Oale  (see  page  170)  wrought  sad  havoc  uuiong  tlio 
fleets  in  the-e  waters. 

Tradition  tells  that  when  Capt.  Coffin  was  conveying  (Joveriior-fSeneral  Lord  Dor- 
chester to  Canada  in  iiis  frigate,  a  furious  storm  aiose  in  the(iult',  and  tile  skilful 
mariner  saved  his  vessel  hy  gaining  sludter  under  the  lee  of  these  islands.  Dorches- 
ter, grateful  for  his  preservation,  secured  for  the  cajitain  the  grant  of  tlu?  islands 
"  in  free  and  common  soceage,"  with  the  rights  of  l)uilding  roads  and  fortilieations 
reserved  to  the  Crown.  The  grantee  was  a  native  of  1{o.-,ton  and  a  henel.ictor  of 
Nantucket,  and  subsequently  became  Admiral  Sir  Isaac  ('olfln.  The  grant  now 
belongs  to  his  nephew,  Admiral  Collin,  of  Hath,  and  is  an  cntaiUvl  cstatt;  of  the 
faniily.  In  ISTIJ,  75  years  after  the  grant,  the  legislature  f)f  Quebec  (in  who.'-e  juris- 
diction the  islands  lie) made  extensive  investigations  with  a  view  to  i)Uy  out  the  i)ro- 
prietor's  claim,  since  many  of  the  islanders  had  emigrated  to  Labrador  aud  the 
Mingau  Isles,  dissatisfied  witlx  their  uncertain  tenure  of  the  laud. 


<#^r' 


50.    St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon. 

Tlmv-Tiihte fnr  1S88.  — Str.  St.  I'ierre  leaves  Halifax  every  alternnte  Monday 
at  10  ,\.  M.  (providing  tiie  mail  from  lingland  has  then  arrived),  for  St  I'ierre,  Miq., 
traversing  tae  Hras  dOr  Lakes,  and  calling  at  the  following  ports  in  Cape  Breton. 


St.  I'oter  s, 
iJadleck, 

S\duev. 

N.  Sydney, 
and  Cow  Hay, 
Fare  to  =5t    I'iurre,  .Sl^'OD; 


return,  *9  00,  , 
"  10. oO.  I 
"  12  "0,1 
"  12.00,  i 
"        14  OU, I 


including  meals  and 
state-rooui  berth. 


fare,  .^O  00  ; 
"       7.(K)  i 
"       8.00; 
8.00; 
•'        0  00; 
return,  '#"2o. 
St.  Pierre  mav  also  be  visited  by  the  Western  Coastal  steamer  from  St.  John's, 
N.  F.  (see  KonteGO). 

There  are  seveial  French  caf6s  and  pensions  in  the  village  of  St.  Pierre,  at  which 
the  traveller  can  find  indilTerent  accommodations.  The  best  of  tiiese  is  that  at  wliicli 
the  telegraph-operators  stop. 

On  entering  the  harbor  of  St.  Pierre,  the  steamer  passes  Ga'antry  IlfarJ,  on  which 
is  a  rcd-and-white  flash-light  which  is  visible  for  20  M.,  and  also  two  fog-guns. 
Within  the  harlior  are  two  fixed  lights,  one  wliito  and  one  red,  which  are  visible  for 
6  M.  ;  and  the  Isle  aux  Chiens  contains  a  scattered  fishing-village. 

The  island  of  St.  Pierre  is  about  12  M.  from  Point  May,  on  the  New- 
foundland coast,  and  is  12  M.  in  circumference.  It  is  mostly  composed  of 
rugged  porphyritic  ridges,  utterly  arid  and  barren,  and  the  scenery  is  of 
a  striki.  g  and  singular  cliaracter.  Back  of  the  village  is  the  hill  of  Cat- 
vaire,  surmounted  by  a  tall  cross;  and  to  the  S.  W.,  beyond  Ravenel  Bay, 
is  the  lakelet  called  U Etnuf)  du  Savoyard.  The  town  is  compactly  built  on 
the  harbor  at  the  K.  of  the  island,  and  most  of  its  houses  are  of  .intone.  It 
is  guarded  by  about  50  French  soldiers,  who.*e  presence  is  necessary  to 
keep  the  multitudes  of  fearless  and  pugnacious  sailors  from  incessant  riot- 
ing. There  is  a  large  force  of  telegrnph-oporators  here,  in  charge  of  the 
two  cables  from  America  to  Great  Britain  by  way  of  Newfoundland,  and 
of  the  Franco-American  cable,  which  runs  E.  to  Brest  and  S.  W.  to  Dux- 
bury,  in  Massachusetts. 

The  only  good  house  in  the  town  is  that  of  the  Governor ;  and  the  Cath- 


'M 


:     -f 

'1    ,A.v:,| 


.  ...:r  I'.iJ 


I-       V-.     ' 


186      Route  50.    ST.  riERRE  AND  MIQUELON. 


^    ,]• 


olic  church  nnd  convent  rij>e  prominently  over  the  low  house?  of  the  fisher- 
men. Near  the  sen  is  ii  Imttery  of  mu'iciit  guii>*,  wliu-li  are  used  only  for 
v'lirning  in  season  of  foRs.  The  Ijtiildinps  are  nearly  all  of  wood,  nnd  in- 
chule  many  shops,  where  every  variety  of  pooiis  may  he  ohtained.  The 
merchants  are  connected  witii  French  and  American  firms.  There  aro 
numerous  v((h(iret«,  or  drinkin^-saloons;  anil  tiie  nnhtrf/vg^  <»r  small  taverns, 
are  thorouj^hiy  Fn-nch.  The  citizens  are  famed  for  then*  hosj)itality  to 
properly  accredited  strangers;  and  the  literary  culture  of  the  community 
is  served  hy  a  diminutive  weekly  paper  callt'd  Ln  Ftuille  OJicidIr,  printed 
on  a  sheet  of  foolscap,  and  containing  its  serial  Parisian  feiiilUlon. 

The  street  of  St.  Pierre  presents  a  very  interesting  siglit  during  the 
spring  and  fall  It  is  crowded  with  many  thousands  of  hardy  fishermen, 
arrayed  in  the  quaint  costtiines  of  their  native  shores,  —  Nornnms,  liretons, 
Basques,  Provincials,  nnd  New-Fnglanders,  —  all  active  and  alert:  v.hile 
tlie  implements  of  the  fisheries  are  seen  on  every  side.  The  environs  of 
the  town  are  rocky  and  utterly  improductive,  so  that  the  provisions  used 
here  are,  imported  from  the  Provinces. 

The  resident  population  is  6,000  (of  whom  24  are  Protestant),  nnd  the 
government  is  conducted  hy  a  Commandant,  a  Police  Magistrate,  Doctor, 
Apostolic  Prefect,  and  Engineer,  w.th  a  few  artillerists  and  gens-d'armes. 
There  is  usually  f)ne  or  more  French  frigates  in  the  ha'hor,  looking  after 
the  vast  fislieries  whicli  employ  15,000  sailors  of  Fraiice,  and  return 
80,000,000  francs'  worth  of  fisli. 

St.  Piorro  is  the  chief  rciidozvons  of  the  Frenrh  fi^hormen,  ami  inimonso  fleets  are 
sometimes  gathered  here.  Over  1  COO  ssiil  of  ^(lllare-ri}.'■^re(l  vessels  from  Frame  are 
engaptd  in  fliese  ti.<hories.  ami  on  tlie  Liith  of  , lime,  lS^4,  the  roadstead  near  tiic 
Island  contained  JJaO  ^ail  of  Kiiiare-rijigetl  vesn  Is  and  8(  (*  fore-aiid-aft  ve^!■els.  They 
are  here  furnished  with  sniijilies,  N\liii  h  are  ihiiwn  fiom  the  adjacent  Provinces,  and 
In  return  leave  many  of  the  luxuries  of  Old  Frame.  It  i.-  elaimt(t  that  the  hiandy 
of  St.  Pierre  i,-<  the  hest  in  America.  The  tislurn  en  leave  their  fish  here  to  lie  cured, 
and  from  this  jioint  they  are  >ent  S.  to  the  \  niled  States  and  the  West  Indies. 

Lilt/e  I\Ii(/i(fl(m  hIdivL  or  Langley  l.-land,  lies  8  M.  N.  W.  of  St.  Pierre,  and  is 
about  24  M.  around.  It  is  joined  to  f<i-(>at  !>•  iqweliiii  IsIaiKl  t)y  a  lojig  and 
narrow  sandy  isthmus  The  latter  i.^land  is  12  M.  long,  and  looks  out  on  Fortune 
Bay.  Near  its  N.  end  are  the  singular  hills  known  as  Mt.  Chapcau  and  Mt  Cal- 
Vaire.  On  this  island,  dur'ng  the  summer  of  1874.  was  wrecked  11.  B.  M.  frigate 
Niobe,  the  brave  ship  that  ti-ained  her  guns  on  Santiago  de  Cuba,  and  prevented  a 
total  massacre  of  the  Virsmius  prisoners 

St.  Pierre  was  eapturet'i  by  a  Prltish  fleet  in  1798,  nnd  all  its  inhabitants,  1,502  in 
number,  were  earried  away  to  Il.ilifax.  whence  they  were  soon  afterwards  K;nt  to 
France.  In  179*)  a  French  Hejiuhlican  fleet  under  Admiral  Richery  visited  the  de- 
serted island,  and  completely  destro\ed  its  hnildings  nnd  wharves.  It  was,  how- 
ever, restored  to  France  in  1S14,  together  with  her  nnrient  privileges  in  theFe 
waters.  "All  the  island  is  only  a  great  laboratory  for  the  preparation,  raring, 
and  exportation  of  codfish  For  the  rest,  not  a  tree,  not  a  bush,  above  26  centi- 
metres."' 

The  n5tel  Joinville  and  the  Pension  Ilacala  are  visited  by  strangers.  Theatricals 
are  given  at  the  Casino  on  the  ("athedral  Square. 

See  a  capital  illustrateil  article  ou  St.  Pierre,  by  S.  0.  W.  Benjamin,  In  TM 
Centavy  Mayxzlim^  June,  1854. 


TravellffS  xntendinrf  to  visit  Newfoundland  should  send  to  the  Quecn^s 
printer,  at  St.  John''s,fm-  the  Vjcak-Hook  and  Almamac,  detailini/  the 
inland  routes,  distances,  etc. 


NEWFOUNDLAND 


1,502  in 

fCllt  to 
ll  the  (le- 
la?,  how- 
|in   tlicFC 

c  uriiig, 
l5  centl- 

leatricala 
In  Tlu 


Is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  tho  Oulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  N.  by  the 
Stiiiit  of  Iklle  Isle,  and  on  tlie  K.  and  S.  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  From 
N.  to  S.  it  is  350  M.  Ion}?,  and  the  average  breadth  is  130  M.,  giving  an 
estimated  area  of  40,200  s(jiiare  niiUjs.  The  coast  is  steep  and  bold,  and 
Is  indented  with  numerous  deep  bays  and  fionls.  Mines  of  lead  and  cop- 
per are  being  worked  with  much  success,  and  there  are  large  undeveloped 
deposits  of  coal  on  the  W   coast. 

"  Up  go  the  surges  on  the  coast  of  Nowfoundlnnd,  and  down  again  Into  the  sea. 
The  iiuge  island  ....  stands,  with  its  shwr,  b^^t'thng  clitls,  out  of  the  ocean,  a  nicn- 
strous  nia.sH  of  rook  and  gravel,  ahnost  without  soil,  like  a  strange  tiling  from  the 
hottoni  of  the  great  deep,  lifted  up  suddenly  into  sunshine  and  storm,  hut  belong- 
ing to  the  watery  darkness  out  of  which  it  has  hecMi  reared.  The  eve  aceustonied  to 
richer  and  soft«;r  scenes  finds  something  of  a  strange  and  almost  startling  beauty  In 
its  bold,  hard  outlines,  cut  out  on  every  side  against  tlio  sky.  ,  .  .  Inland,  sur- 
rounded by  a  fringe  of  sniaP  forests  on  the  co.ists,  is  a  va.>t  wilderness  of  nioHs,  and 
rock,  and  lake,  and  dwarf  firs  about  breast-high  These  little  trees  are  so  close  an(l 
stilT  and  Hat-topped  that  one  can  almost  walk  on  them.  Of  course  they  an?  very  hard 
things  to  make  way  through  and  among  ....  In  March  or  April  almost  nil  the 
men  go  out  in  fi<  ets  to  meet  the  ice  that  Hoats  down  from  the  northern  regions  and 
to  kill  the  seals  that  come  down  on  it.  In  early  sununer  a  third  part  or  a  half  of 
nil  the  people  go,  by  families,  in  their  schooners,  to  the  coast  of  Labr.idor,  and 
■'pend  the  sununer  fishing  there  ;  and  In  the  winter,  half  of  them  are  living  in  the 
woods,  in  tilts,  to  have  their  fuel  near  them.  At  home  or  abroad,  during  tho  sea- 
son, the  men  are  on  the  water  for  .seals  or  cod.  Tho  women  sow,  and  plaiit,  and 
tend  the  little  gardens,  and  <lry  the  fish;  in  short,  they  do  the  land-work,  and  are 
the  better  for  it."   (11.  T.  S.  Lowell.) 

Two  of  the  most  remarkable  features  of  the  natural  history  of  the  island 
are  thus  quaintly  .^et  forth  by  Whitbourne  {anno  1G22) :  "  Neither  arc  there 
any  Snakes,  Toads,  Serpent.9,  or  any  other  venomous  Wornies  that  ever 
were  knowne  to  hurt  any  man  in  that  country,  but  only  a  very  little  nim- 
ble fly  (the  least  of  all  other  flies),  which  is  called  a  Miskieto;  those  flies 
seem  to  have  a  great  power  and  authority  upon  all  loytering  and  idle  peo- 
l)le  that  come  to  the  Newfoundland."  Instances  have  been  known  where 
tlie  flies  have  attacked  men  with  such  venom  and  multitudes  that  fatal 
results  have  followed.  In  the  interior  of  the  island  are  vast  unexplored 
regions,  studded  with  large  lakes  and  mountain-ranges.  Through  these 
solitudes  roam  coun^^ess  thousands  of  deer,  which  are  pursued  by  the  Mic- 
mac  hunters. 

Newfoundland  was  discovered  by  the  Norsemen  in  the  tenth  centurj^ 
but  they  merely  observed  the  coast  and  made  no  further  explorations. 


»■ 


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if. 

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i 

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« 

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1 

1 

1 

188      Route  51. 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


mm 


mi 

Ml 


II 


■! 


There  i»  good  roiiMou  for  supposiiipf  tliiit  It  wmh  froqiiontod  by  Breton  and 
Normiin  lislicrmcii  during  tlie  luiirtccnth  cciitiiry.  In  14lt7  tlu«  island  was 
forninlly  diHtovt'nvl  by  .bilin  Cabot,  wlio  wan  voyaging  uikUt  the  patron- 
ftge  of  Il«'!iry  V'll.  o(  I'jigland.  Tbtioxplonition.s  of  Cortc'r«'al  (1501),  Ve- 
ra/.zano  (1624),  and  (^artier  (loJH),  all  touched  licrc,  and  great  flnhiug- 
fleets  began  to  visit  the  surroinidiiig  seas.  Sir  Huniphn-y  (iilbert  took 
possession  of  Newfoundland  in  \\w  \\\\\w  of  Kngland,  in  l^^."],  ninking 
thiH  the  most  aneient  colony  of  the  Ib-itish  Kmpire.  The  settienientf* 
of  Guy,  Whitbourne,  Calvert,  and  othcrH  were  soon  established. 

Tlie  fishermen  were  terribly  persecuted  by  pirates  during  the  earlier 
part  of  the  17th  century.  I'eter  Kaston  alone  had  10  puiI  of  corsairs  on  tho 
coast,  dainiing  that  ho  was  "master  of  the  seas,"  and  levying  lu'avy 
taxes  on  all  the  vessels  in  tlieso  waters.  Hetween  1012  and  lOGO  alone, 
tlio  pirates  capturtd  180  jiieecs  of  ordnance,  l,OfcO  fishermen,  and  largo 
fleets  of  vessels. 

Between  1692  and  1713  the  French  made  vigorous  attempts  to  conquer 
tho  island,  and  the  struggle  r;iged  a\  ith  varying  fortunes  on  the  K.  and  S. 
shores.  By  the  Treaty  of  rtrcclit  the  French  received  jiermission  to  catch 
and  cure  fish  along  the  W.  coast  (sec  iJoute  01)  In  1728  Newfoundland 
was  formed  into  a  Province,  and  courts  were  established.  The  French  made 
determined  attacks  in  17G1  and  17l»6,  and  the  people  were  reduced  to 
great  extremity  by  tlie  Non-Intercourse  Act  passed  by  the  American  Con- 
gress in  1770  (uid  again  in  1812-14.  In  1817  there  were  60,000  inhab- 
itants, and  800  vessels  were  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  whose  product  was 
valued  at  $  10,000,000  a  year.  In  1832  the  first  Legislative  Assembly  was 
convened;  in  1838  a  geological  survey  was  made;  and  in  1858  the  Atlan- 
tic telegrajjli-cable  was  landed  on  these  shores.  Newfoundland  has  re- 
fused to  enter  tho  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  is  still  governed  directly  by 
the  biitibh  Cruwn.     It  hud  rj7,58U  inhabitants  iu  1U84. 


51.   Halifax  to  St.  John's,  Newfoundland. 

The  ocean  steamships  between  Halifax  and  Liverpool  call  at  St.  .John's  frequently. 

St'hediileti  for  188S.  —  The  msw  steamers  of  tlie  Red  Orosfi  Line  run  trnni  New 
York  (oflflre,  IS  Hroadwaj),  to  Halifax  and  St.  .lolin's.  New  York  to  Halifax,  nO 
hrs. ;  slay  at  Halifax,  20  lira.  ;  Halifax  to  St.  .John's  60  hrs  ;  stay  at  St.  John's,  00 
hrs  ;  St.  .lolin's  to  Halifax.  60  hr.^.;  .stay  at  Halifax.  .10  hrs.  ;  Halifax  to  New  York, 
60  hrs.     Averaj^o  time  of  tliu  entire  round  trip,  12  day.s. 

Kare.s:  N.  V.  to  Halifax,  fir.st  caliiri,  $110  second  cabin,  $0  ;  to  Halifax  and  return, 
$28,  or  .Sin  :  N,  Y.  to  St.  .lohu's,  lff34,or  »18  ;  to  St.  .John's  and  return,  Jfl^W  or  ¥32  ; 
Ualitax  to  St.  .John's,  .#18,  or  *0 ;  to  St.  .John's  and  return,  $34,  or  #ltj.  Sabings 
every  15  days  iu  summer;  every  lO  days  in  spring  aud  autumu. 

Halifax  to  Sydney,  see  page  148. 

Affpr  Ipflvincr  flio  hnrlinrnf   .^vdnpv.  Flinf  Tulnnrl  is  sppn  on  fhp  r..  nnd  the 
.^„  .  ...„  ..._  — -    .  ^. ^.  ,  » _. , _..,-.- 

blue  ranges  of  the  St.  Anne  Mts.  on  the  1.  The  course  is  but  little  N.  of 
E.,  and  the  horizon  soon  becomes  level  and  landless.  Sometimes  tlie  dim 
blue  hills  of  St.  Pierre  are  the  first  land  seen  after  the  Cape-Breton  oofl?t 


Proton  and 
islimtl  wn» 
he  pntron- 
IBOn,  Ve- 
•!it  fi>*l\inj;- 
;ill)L'rt  tiiok 

si'ttlotnentf* 

Ami 

the  oiuTier 
siiirs  on  tho 
•yinji  heavy 
[  lOtiO  alone, 
[1,  and  livrgo 

:a  to  conquer 
;ho  Iv  and  S. 
sion  to  catch 
ewfoundhuui 
French  made 
e  reduced  to 
inerican  Con- 
n(),000  inhab- 
product  was 
sscnibly  was 
r,8  the  Athui- 
Uand  has  re- 
dircctly  by 


id. 

^n"s  fwqiit'ntly. 
run  tVoni  N»'vv 
to  Halifax,  f'i(» 

It  St.  JohnV.HO 
to  New  York, 

Ifax  nnrl  return, 

In ,  f  W  or  *3'i  ; 
sfltj.     Sailing* 


ther=,  nnd  the 
It  little  N.  of 
limes  the  dim 
iBreton  cofl?t 


ST.   JOHN'S. 


RmUeSi.       189 


sinks  below  the  horizon;  but  jjeneniliy  the  bold  mountahi-|)rotnontory  of 
Cape  ChiippMU  Hoiijje  is  the  first  recofinizal)le  shore.  Then  the  deep  bight 
of  I'laccntin  Itny  opens  uway  on  the  N.  .\rter  nmndinj^  (^ape  JJaco  (see 
pMj.,'e  !!>!»),  I  lie  sti'ani^hip  stretclies  away  up  the  Strait  Shore  past  ii  lino 
of  li^liinji  liandets,  deep  liunis,  and  rocky  capes. 

"  When  ttie  niistn  disiMTseil,  tlio  rocky  slioren  of  Ne^^fonnflliinil  were  olo«e  upon 
our  li't't,  —  lotf.v  <lills,  red  iniil  K'""V,  ffiiiMv  lu-atcii  hy  tin?  \vav<'<  of  tin;  iiruad  ocean. 
We  amii't'il  oiirx'lvc.s,  as  \\c  pariM-il  alueast  tiie  hays  an<l  licaillatids  and  ru^^«>ll 
islands,  with  ua/.iiiK  at  the  wild  s<'ciie,  and  searching  out  tiu>  iK'aiity  tinddly  reposing 
anions  the  hlcalc  and  desolate.  On  the  whole,  Newfoundland,  to  the  voyaf^er  from 
tlie  St;itcs,  is  a  lean  and  hony  land,  in  thin,  raj^j^t'd  clothes,  with  the  sniallestaniount 
ot  adornment  .Moii^  the  sides  of  the  ilull.  hrown  nKMUitains  tlxMu  is  a  suspicion 
of  v(rdiin»,  spotted  and  striped  iiere  and  there  with  nieann*  woods  of  i)irch  and  fir. 
The  Kl'Ty  of  this  hard  region  is  its  coast:  a  wonderful  iM'rplexlty  of  fiords,  bays  and 
creeks,  islands,  peninsulas  and  capes,  endlessly  pictures(iue,  and  very  often  magnill- 
ceiitiy  )?rand.  Nothing  can  well  exceed  the  headlands  and  precipices,  honoyconitxid, 
siiatteriil,  and  hnliowi'd  out  into  vast  caverns,  antl  liiven  up  to  the  thunders  and  tho 
fury  of  tlie  deep-si-a  hillo.vs.  .  .  The  brooks  that  flow  from  the  highlands,  and  fall 
over  cliirs  of  (!;reat  elevation  into  tho  very  stirf,  and  that  would  be  counted  features 
of  t^randiur  in  some  countries,  are  here  the  merest  trities,  a  kind  of  jewelry  on  the 
hem  of  t!ie  land-cipe  "     (.NoKl.K.) 

"  I'ue  first  view  of  the  harbor  of  St  .John's  is  very  strikin«  I/ofty  precipitous 
cliirs,(if  h.ird  dark-red  sandstone  nnd  conglomerate,  lan^re  aion;.?  the  const,  with  deep 
water  close  at  their  feet  Their  beds  plunge  from  a  hciu'ht  of  4'l(>-70<)  ft  ,  atan  angle 
ot  7n\  riiiht  into  the  sea,  where  they  are  ceaselessly  dashed  against  by  the  uubrokcn 
swell  of  the  Atlantic  waves  ''    (Jukes  ) 

52.    St  John's,  Newfoundland. 

Arrival  from  the  S«a.  —  "  The  harbor  of  St.  .John's  is  certainly  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  for  bold  and  elfective  scenery  on  the  Atlantic  shore.  ...  We  were 
moving  spiritedly  forward  over  a  bright  and  lively  .sea,  wat<'hing  the  stern  headland.s 
receding  in  the  south,  and  starting  out  to  view  in  the  north,  when  we  passed  Cape 
^!pear,  a  lofty  promontory,  crowned  with  a  lighthouse  and  a  signal-staff,  upon  which 
was  floating  tlie  meteor  tiag  of  England,  and  at  once  found  ourselves  abreast  tho 
bay  in  front  of  St.  .John's.  Not  a  vestige,  though,  of  anything  like  a  city  was  iu 
siglit,  except  another  flag  flitting  on  a  distant  pinnacle  of  rock.  Like  a  mighty 
('oli<<  tun,  the  sea-wall  half  encircled  the  deep  water  of  this  outer  bay,  into  which 
the  fidl  power  of  the  ocean  let  itself  under  every  wind  except  the  westerly.  Right 
towards  the  coa.st  where  it  gathered  it.self  up  into  the  greatest  massi\cness,  and  tiid 
itself  into  a  very  Oordian  knot,  we  cut  across, curious  to  behold  when  and  where  the 
rugged  ailainant  was  going  to  split  and  let  us  through  At  length  it  ojjened.and  wo 
looked  through,  and  jiresently  glided  through  a  kind  of  mountain-pass,  with  all  the 
lonely  grandeur  of  the  Francoiiia  Notch  Above  us,  and  clo^^e  above,  the  rugged, 
brown  clill's  rose  to  a  fine  height,  armed  at  certain  points  with  cannon,  and  before 
us,  to  all  appearance,  opened  out  a  most  beautiful  mountain  lake,  with  a  little  city 
looking  down  from  the  mountain-side,  and  a  swamj)  of  shipping  along  it.s  shores.  We 
were  in  the  harbor,  and  befon-  St   .lohn's."     (Noiilk.) 

Hotels.  New  Atlantic  Hotel,  bit  rooms,  parlors,  billiard  rooms,  etc.,  elevator, 
elei  uic  bell.s,  v a- w  of  Harbor ;  Union  House,  3(9  vVnter  fit.  There  are  a  .»o  two  or 
tune  boaruing-liou.-es.  Mrs.  ^imms's,  35y  Water  St.,  is  one  of  the  best  of  these; 
auii  Iviiiguc  s  Uouie,  17<i  Water  St.,  is  toierable. 

(;ai'iii»j;es  niay  be  engaged  at  the  stands  on  Water  St.  (near  the  Post-Offlce). 
The  rate  per  hour  is  SOc 

Ainnsements,  generally  of  merely  local  interest,  are  prepared  in  the  Citv  flail. 
There  is  a  Misouic  Temple      Boat-racing  is  frccjnently  carrie  I  on  at  Qui«idy-Vidd5 


1' 


Olid 
■  > 


Oricket-matches  ;ire  Jilso  plaved  oti  the  oiitski 
at  tiie  M.irket  House,  on  Wnter  St. 


.'ni^T-^/iiie«* 


fouudiaud,  aud  Luudou  Co.,  at  the  Market  House. 


rs  01  tiiefii.y. 
TeUyraph,  New  York,  New 


'  -■; 


i   l''t\ 

M     T.    '\ 

I  ■     4 


f! 


U:-' 


■!■■« 


190      Route  52, 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


\  '> 


Mail-wasrons  leare  St.  John's  for  Portnpral  Core,  dallv :  to  Bav  Bulls  and 
Ferryland,  weekly  ;  to  Siilnionier  iiinl  I  laceiitia.  on  the  day  of  iirriviil  of  the  Hali- 
fax ni:;il.     ll.iilroiul  to  point.-^  on  ('()n('c|)tioii  ]{ ly. 

St('ains1ir>s.  —  For  Hay-do  Verds,  Trinity,  ("atiilitia,  Bonavistn,  Kinp's  f'ove, 
Oreeiis|ioiid,  Foijo,  Twillin!,',ite,  Expluits  Island,  Liitlc  Il.iv  IsIjiikI,  Tilt  (Jove,  IJctt's 
Cove.  Nipper's  llirbor.  and  t!i!'  Lal)r.id(ir  ( f)a  t  ;  fo  Ferr'.  hmd,  'leuesv-e,  Tfepa--sev, 
Burin.  St.  Liwrence,  (Ir  ind  B'tnk.  St.  Pierre  IF'-lmrHriton,  (J'inltoi  ■.,(!re!if,  .lervoi^] 
Burijeo,  F.itfl*!  Hay  (L-i  Pnile).  rinsi>  RIanelie  C  lannel.  !Mid  Svdne--.  Fires  (m.-.-ils 
ineliided)  fo  H'lv-de-Verds  or  Ferrvlml,  I's  ;  Trinitv  or  PI;iee'ifi:i,  20  s. ; 
Catalina  or  Burin,  20s  ;  Foiro  or  St  Pi(>rre,  32.1.  Hd  ;  TUt  <'<.v<',  4'l.<.;  Rose 
Blanelie,  50 .«  ;  Svdney,  70  .s.  These  ."tenin.sliip.s  to  the  Northern  and  Wesfcrn  oiit- 
port.s  leave  ahont  everv  ten  days,  and  connect  witli  the  Ifrrit't  s  for  F/ihrador. 
The  /{(Wdvisfft  runs  from  St.  John's  to  Pictou  and  Monhcal  every  fortnit'lit.  in 
sununer  The  Ked-(lros.«  Line  rnn.s  the  Mirdudd  and  I'ort'in  .*-teani.ships  t'loni  St. 
JohnVs  to  II  ilit'ix  and  Ne.v  York  eviry  ten  days.  (See  p:ine  1«8.)  The  Ailuu-Line 
steaui.sUip.s  from  Halifax  to  Liverpool  reacli  St.  John'rf  in  48  lirs. 

St.  John's,  tho  ra|Mta1  f)f  tho  Province  of  XowfouiuDand,  is  situated  in 
latitmk'  47^  .'J-T  ;]:{"  N  ,  and  loniritiide  52^  45'  10"  W.,  and  is  hnilt  on  tlio 
slope  of  a  lonij  hill  whidi  rises  from  the  shore  of  a  deep  and  secure  har- 
bor. At  the  time  of  tlie  census  of  18f}J)  there  were  22,5.55  inhatiifaiits  in 
tlie  city  (there  are  now  over  .•{0,000);  bnt  the  population,  owing  to  the 
peculiar  character  of  its  chief  industry,  is  liable  at  nnv  time  to  be  in- 
creased or  dimini.shed  by  several  thousand  men.  The  gicater  part  of  the 
citizens  are  connected  with  the  fislieries,  directly  or  indirectly,  and  laro-e 
fleets  nro  despatched  from  the  port  throu<,diout  the  season.  Their  return, 
or  the  arrival  of  the  sealing-steamers,  with  their  great  crews,  brings  new 
life  to  the  streets,  and  oftentimes  results  in  such  general  "rows"  as  re- 
quire the  attendance  of  a  large  police-force.  The  interests  of  the  city  are 
all  Avith  the  sea,  from  which  are  drawn  its  revenues,  and  over  which  pas3 
the  fleets  which  bring  in  provisions  from  the  Provinces  and  Stales  to  tho 
S.  W.  The  manufactures  of  St.  John's  are  insignificant,  and  consist,  lor 
the  most  part,  of  biscait-bakeries  and  oil-refineries  (on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  harbor).  An  immense  business  is  done  by  the  mercantile  houses 
on  Water  St.  in  furnishing  supplies  to  the  outports  (a  term  applied  to  all 
the  other  ports  of  Newfoundland  except  St.  John's);  and  one  firm  alone 
has  a  trade  amounting  to  S  12,000,000  a  year.  For  about  one  month, 
during  the  busy  season,  the  streets  are  absolutely  crowded  with  the  people 
from  the  N.  and  W.  coasts,  selling  their  fish  and  oil,  and  laying  in  pro- 
visions and  other  supplies  for  the  ensuing  year.  The  commercial  interests 
are  served  by  three  banks  and  a  chamber  of  commerce;  and  the  literary 
standard  of  society  is  maintained  by  the  St.  John's  Atheniieum  and  the 
Catholic  Institute.  The  city  is  supplied  with  gas,  and  water  is  brou^Tiht 
in  from  a  lake  4jJ  M.  distant,  by  works  which  cost  $360,000. 

"In  tryinpr  to  descrihe  St.  John's,  there  Is  some  difflcnlty  in  applying  an  adjec- 
tive to  it  suffleieiitly  distinctive  and  appropriate.  We  find  other  cities  coupled  witli 
words  which  at  once  give  their  predominant  characteristic .  London  the  riclicst, 
Paris  the  gayest,  St.  Pctersburj;  the  coldest.  In  one  respect  the  chief  town  of  New- 
foundland has,  1  believe,  no  rival;  we  may,  therefore,  call  it  the  fishiest  of  modern 
capitals.  Round  a  great  part  of  the  harbor  are  sheds,  acres  in  extent,  roofed  wit'x 
cod  split  in  half,  laid  on  like  slates,  drying  in  the  sun,  or  rather  the  air,  for  there  id 


ST.   JOHN'S. 


Route  r,2.      191 


7  Bnllfl  nnd 
)f  tlie  Iluli- 

:inp"H  rove, 
t'ovc,  K'-tt's 

i-ciit,  .Icvvoi'*, 

.„rt;.,  20  s.; 
40  s.  ;  Hose 
^Vcsff'rn  out- 
or  liJibrnilor. 
fortnk'ht.  m 
\ii|is  tVoiii  St. 


(  situated  in 
built  on  tlio 
st'ciin'  liar- 
habitants  in 
)\ving  to  the 
me  to  be  in- 
jr  ptu-t  of  the 
:ly,  and  large 
Their  vol  urn, 
s,  brin«i;s  new 
vows"  as  re- 
f  the  city  are 
r  which  pass 
Stales  to  the 
,d  consist,  ibr 
opposite  side 
untile  houses 
iipplied  to  all 
[le  firm  alone 
|t  one  month, 
•ith  the  people 
laying  in  pro- 
■rcial  interests 
the  literary 
\e\\vc\  and  the 
ler  is  brou-.^ht 


r;  coupltHl  VMt  A 
Ion  the  richest, 
^ftownof  Ncw- 
kest  of  ir.oaern 
Lit,  roofed  witA 
lair,  for  there  13 


not  much  of  the  former  to  depend  upon The  town  \?.  irrejrular  and  dirty,  built 

chictly  of  wood,  the  dumpues.s  of  the  climate  reuderiiig  stone  un.suitiible."   (EliOT 
\V.\llBURrON.) 

The  harbor  is  small,  but  deep,  and  is  so  thoroughly  lf;ndlocked  that  the 
water  is  silwiiys  smootli.  Here  may  generally  be  seen  two  or  three  UritisU 
nnd  Krencli  frigates,  and  at  the  close  of  the  sesisou  these  narrow  waters  are 
well  filled  with  the  vessels  of  the  fishiiig-Heets  and  the  powerful  sealing- 
steaniers.  Along  the  shores  are  tlie  fisli-stages,  where  inniKMise  fpiantiiies 
of  cod,  herring,  and  salmon  are  cured  and  made  ready  for  exportatiou. 
On  the  S.  shore  are  several  wharves  right  under  the  dills,  and  also  a  float- 
ing dock  which  takes  iip  vessels  of  800  tons'  burden.  The  entrance  to  the 
harl)or  is  called  the  *  Narrows,  and  is  a  stupendous  cleft  in  the  massive 
ridge  which  lines  the  coast.  It  is  about  1,800  ft.  long,  and  at  its  narrow- 
est point  is  but  660  ft.  wide.  On  either  sid*  rise  precipitous  walls  of  sand- 
stone and  conglomerate,  of  which  Signal  Hill  (on  the  N.  side)  reaches  an 
altitude  of  520  ft,  and  the  southern  ridge  is  nearly  700  ft-  high.  Vessels 
coming  m  from  the  ocean  are  unable  to  see  the  Narrows  ui.til  close  upon 
it,  and  steer  for  tiie  lofty  block-house  on  Signal  Hill.  The  points  at  the 
entrance  were  formerly  well  fortified,  and  during  war-time  the  harbor  was 
closed  by  a  chain  drawn  across  the  Narrows,  but  the  batteries  are  now  in 
a  neglected  condition,  and  are  ner.rly  disarmed. 

The  city  occupies  the  rugged  hill  on  the  N.  of  the  harbor,  and  is  built 
on  three  parallel  streets,  connected  by  steep  side-streets.  The  houses  are 
mostly  low  and  unpainted  wooden  buildings,  crowding  out  on  the  side- 
walks, and  the  general  appearance  is  that  of  [)overty  and  thriftlessness. 
Even  the  wealthy  merchants  generally  occupy  houses  far  beneath  their 
station,  since  they  seem  to  regard  Newfoundland  as  a  place  to  get  for- 
tunes in  and  then  retire  to  England  to  make  their  homes.  This  prin- 
ciple was  universally  acted  on  in  former  years,  but  latterly  pleasant  villas 
are  being  erected  in  the  suburbs,  and  a  worthier  architectural  appearance 
is  desired  and  expected  for  the  ancient  capital.  Water  Street  is  the  main 
business  thoroughfare,  and  follows  the  curves  of  the  harbor  shore  for  about 
li  M.  Its  lower  side  is  occupied  by  the  great  mercantile  houses  which 
supply  "fish-and-fog-land  "  with  provisions,  clothing,  and  household  re- 
quirements; and  the  upper  side  is  lined  with  an  alternation  of  cheap  shop.s 
and  liquor-saloons.  In  the  N.  part  is  the  Custom  House,  and  near  the  cen- 
tre is  the  spacious  building  of  the  Market-Hall  and  the  Post-Office.  To  the 
S.,  Water  Street  connects  with  the  causeway  and  bridge  of  boats  wdiich 
crosses  the  head  of  the  harbor.  Admonished  by  several  disastrous  fires, 
the  city  has  caused  Water  St.  to  be  built  upon  in  a  substantial  manner, 
and  the  stores,  though  very  plain,  are  solidly  and  massively  constructed. 

The  Anglican  Cathedral  stands  about  midway  up  the  hill,  over  the 
old  burying-ground..  It  was  planned  by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  the  most  emi- 
nent liritish  architect  of  the  present  era,  and  is  in  the  early  English  Gothio 


••i.i 


■■'■1^;.:;. 


192       Route  52. 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


'  r  \\ 


r  ■ 


I'; 

■  '■> 


architecture.  Owing  to  the  inability  of  the  Church  to  raise  sufficient  funds 
(for  tlic  missions  at  tiie  outports  deiiiaud  all  her  revoniics),  the  cathedral 
IS  l)iit  i)artly  li)iishcd,  but  sine*.'  1880  inucli  work  has  been  done  upon  it, 
largely  l)y  tislienuen  volunteers.  Tlic  lofty  ))roportious  of  the  interior 
and  the  lliu'  (i(»tiiic  colonnades  of  stone  betwi  en  the  nave  and  ai>lcs, 
together  with  the  high  lancet-windows,  form  a  pleasant  picture. 

The  *  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  is  the  most  stately  building  in  Xew- 
foundland,  nnd  occupies  the  crest  of  the  riilge,  commanding  a  nohle  *  view 
over  the  city  and  harbor  and  adjacent  country,  and  lookin<i  throusrli  the 
Narrows  on  to  the  open  sea.  The  ])rospect  from  the  cathedral  ternice  on 
a  moonliirlit  night  or  at  the  time  of  a  clear  sunrise  or  sunset  is  es])ecially 
to  be  commended.  In  the  front  part  of  the  grounds  is  a  colossal  statue  of 
St.  Peter,  and  other  large  statues  are  seen  near  the  building.  The  cathe- 
dral is  an  iujinense  stone  structure,  "with  twin  towers  on  the  frotd',  and  is 
surrounded  with  a  long  interiuil  corridor,  or  cloister.  There  are  no  aisles, 
but  the  whole  building  is  thrown  into  a  broad  nave,  from  which  the  tran- 
septs diverge  to  N.  and  S.  The  stone  of  which  it  is  constructed  was 
brought  from  Conception  Bay  and  from  Duidcary,  Ireland,  and  the  walls 
were  raised  by  the  free  aiul  vohuitary  lal)ors  of  the  people.  Clustered 
about  the  cathedral  are  the  Blshoj/s  Palace,  the  convent  and  its  schools, 
and  St.  Boimvtnture's  CuUefje  (5  professors),  where  the  missionaries  are 
disciplined  and  the  Catholic  youth  are  taught  in  the  higher  branches  of 
learning. 

Catholicism  was  founded  on  the  island  by  Sir  George  Calvert  (see  Route  54)  and 
by  the  liisliop  of  Quebec  ;  sulTered  }>(n>ecution  fvoiii  17(j2  to  1784,  when  all  priests 
■were  bauislud  (though  some  retunieil  in  disguise) :  and  afterwards  gained  tlie  chief 
power  as  a  euu-equeuce  of  Irisli  immigration,  upon  which  the  bishops  became  arro- 
gant and  autocratic,  and  the  J'rovinc  c  was,  jiractically,  governed  from  Cathedral 
Hill.  The  great  pile  of  religious  buildings  then  erected  on  this  couunandini;  height 
cost  over  S  500,000,  and  the  present  revenues  of  the  diocese  are  princely  in  amount, 
being  colIect(;d  by  the  priests,  who  board  tiie  arriving  fishing-vessels  and  assess  their 
people.     The  Irish  Catholics  form  a  great  majority  of  the  citizens  of  St.  John's. 

Near  the  cathedral  are  the  old  barrsicks  of  the  Royal  Newfoundland 
Companies  aiul  the  garrisons  from  the  British  army.  The  Military  Road 
runs  along  the  crest  of  the  heights,  ami  aObrds  pleasant  views  over  the 
harbor.  On  this  road  is  the  Colonial  Building,  a  substantial  structure 
of  gray  stone,  well  retired  from  the  carriage-way,  and  adorned  with  a 
massive  portico  of  Doric  colunms  upholdin;^  a  pediment  which  is  occupied 
by  the  Royal  Arms  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland.  The  coloiual  legislature 
meets  in  this  building,  and  occupies  plain  but  comfortable  halls.  The 
Goreniinent  Ilousie  is  N.  of  the  Colonial  Building,  and  is  the  oHicial  man- 
sion of  the  governor  of  the  I'mvince. 

It  wiis  built  in  1828-30,  and  cost  $240,000.  The 
Burrounding  grounds  are  plea>antly  iliversilied  vvith  groves,  Hovver-beds, 
and  walks,  aiul  are  nuicli  visited  by  the  aristocracy  of -St.  John's,  during 
the  short  but  brilliant  summer  season. 


ST.   JOHN'S. 


Route  52.       193 


•ient  funds 
cathedral 
le  ujion  it, 
he  interior 
and  air^les, 

up  in  Xew- 
loble  *  vii^w 
through  the 
.  terrucc  <ni 
s  especially 
;ul  statue  of 
The  calhe- 
iront,  and  is 
,re  no  aisles, 
ch  the  tran- 
trncted  was 
nd  the  walls 
I.     Clustered 
d  its  schools, 
sionaries  are 
I  branches  of 

Route  54)  and 
leu  all  priests 
ined  the  chief 
beciuiie  ai-ro- 
om  Cathedral 
andin'T  height 
_lv  in  amount, 
nd  ast^ess  their 
t.  John's. 

cwfoundland 

fllitary  Road 

}\vs  over  the 

ial  structure 

l)rned  with  a 

1  is  (K'cupied 

al  legislature 

halls.    The 

ofhcial  nian- 

|40,OnO.    The 

ovver-beds, 

Ihu's,  during 


Passing  out  through  the  poor  suburb  called  "  Mnggotty  Cove,"  a  walk 
of  about  20  minutes  leads  to  the  top  of  *  Signal  Hill. 

"  Hij?h  above,  on  our  r.,  a  ruined  monolith,  on  a  mountain-peak  (Crow'.<i  Nest), 
marks  the  site  of  an  old  V)attery,  while  to  the  ].,  sunk  in  a  hollow,  a  black  boy  lies 
siu'ltered  amid  the  bare  bcines  of  mother  earth,  here  mainly  composed  of  dark  red 
Randstf)nes  and  conglomerate,  passing  down  by  regular  gradations  to  tlie  slate  below. 
A  sudden  turn  of  the  roid  reveals  a  deep  solitary  tarn,  some  8)0  ft  above  the  sea, 
in  which  the  guardian  rocks  rcHect  tiieir  purple  fices,  and  where  the  ripple  of  the 
muskrat,  iiurryiug  across,  alouc;  di>turbs  the  placid  surface.  U'e  pass  a  hi.leous- 
looking  barrack,  an(i,  crossing  the  soft  velvety  sward  on  the  crest,  reach  a  little  bat- 
tery, from  the  parapets  of  which  we  look  down  down,  almost  .OlK)  ft  pi'rpendicu- 
larly,  right  into  '  the  Narrows,'  the  strait  or  creek  between  the  hills  connecting  the 
broail  .\tlantic  wirh  the  oval  harbor  within  The  great  south-side  liids,  covered 
with  lu.xuriant  wild  vegetation,  and  skeined  with  twisting  torrents,  loom  across  the 
strait  so  close  that  one  might  f  incy  it  almost  possible  a  stone  could  Hy  from  the 
hand  to  the  opposite  shore  Ou  our  left  the  vast  ocean,  with  nothing  —  not  a  rock 
—  between  us  and  Gal  way  ;  on  our  right,  at  the  other  end  of  the  nariow  neck  of 
water  directly  beneath,  the  inner  basin,  expanding  towarJs  the  city,  with  t  le  back- 
ground of  blue  hills  as  a  setting  to  the  picture,  broken  only  in  their  continuous  out- 
line by  the  twin  towers  of  the  Catholic  cathedral,  ever  thus  frcjm  all  points  perform- 
ing their  mission  of  conspicuity.  Right  below  ns,  400  ft  perpendicular,  we  lean 
over  the  grass  parapet  and  look  carefully  down  into  the  little  battery  guarding  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  entering-strait,  wliere,  in  the  old  wars,  heavy  chains  stretched 

f.uin  shore  to  shore The  Narrows  are  full  of  lishing-boats  returning  with  tlie 

silver  spoils  of  the  day  glistening  in  the  hold  of  the  smacks,  which,  to  the  number 
of  forty  or  tifty  at  a  time,  tack  and  fill  like  a  fleet  of  white  swans  against  the  western 
evening  breeze  Even  as  we  look  down  on  the  decks,  they  come,  and  still  tliey  come, 
round  the  bluff  point  of  Kort  Amherst,  from  the  bay  outside."   (Lt.-CoL   McCrea.) 

"  After  dinner  we  set  off  for  Signal  Hill,  the  grand  observatory  ot  the  country, 

both  by  nature  and  art T.ittle  rills  rattleil   by  ;   paths  wound  among  rocky 

notches  and  grassy  cliasms,  anJ  led  out  to  dizzy  '  over-looks  '  and  '  short-ofTs.'  The 
town  with  its  thousand  smokes  sat  in  a  kind  of  amphit'ieatre,  and  seemed  to  enjoy 

the  spectacle  of  sails  a  d  colors  in  the  harbor We  struck  into  a  fine  military 

roid,and  passed  spacious  stone  barracks,  soldiers  and  soldiers"  fimilies,  goats  and 
little  gardens.  From  the  observatory,  situated  on  the  craggy  peninsula,  both  the 
rugged  interior  and  the  expanse  of  ocean  were  before  us."   (Noule.) 


"  Britones  et  Norma ni  anno  a  C/iristo  nato  MCCCCCIIII.  has  terras  inveiiere^-  ; 
and  in  August,  1527,  14  sail  of  Norman,  Breton,  and  Portuguese  vessels  were  shel- 
tered in  the  harbor  of  St.  John's.  In  1542  the  Sieur  de  Roberval,  Viceroy  of  New 
Fr.uice,  entered  here  with  3  ships  and  200  colonists  bound  for  Quebec.  He  found  17 
Vfs,-e!s  at  anchor  in  the  harbor,  and  soon  afterward  there  arrived  .lacques  Cartier 
and  the  Quebec  colonists,  discouraged,  and  returning  to  France.  Kolierval  ordered 
him  back,  but  he  stole  out  of  tlie  harbor  during  the  darkne.-is  of  night  and  returneil 
to  b'rmce  A  few  years  later  the  harbor  was  visited  by  the  exploring  ship  I\lari/  of 
Criii/for//,  and  the  revi^rend  Canon  of  St  I'aul,  who  liad  undertaken  the  unpriestiy 
function  of  a  iliscoverer,  sent  hence  a  chronicle  of  the  voyage  to  Cardinal  \Vol,'<ey. 

In  August,  1583,  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  (see  page  135)  entered  the  harbor  of  St. 
John's,  with  a  fleet  consisting  of  the  Ditii;ht,  Goldtn  Hind,  Sirallotr.  and  Scfiiirn-l. 
He  took  formal  po.ssession  of  the  port  and  of  the  island  of  Newfoundland,  receiving 
tae  obedience  of  S<]  ship-masters  then  in  the  harbor.  But  the  adventurous  mari- 
ners wore  discontented  with  the  rmleness  of  the  country,  and  the  learned  Parnie- 
nins  wrote  back  to  Hakluyt :  "  !My  good  Hakluyt,  of  the  manner  of  this  country 
whit  shall  1  say,  when  I  ,<ee  nothing  but  a  very  wildernesse."'  In  view  of  the  date 
of  Gilbert's  occupation,  NewfountUand  claims  the  proud  distinction  of  being  the 
niost  ancient  colony  of  the  British  ELupire.  In  15H4  St.  John's  was  visited  by  the 
fleet  of  Sir  Francis  Drake,  which  had  swept  the  adjacent  seas  ami  left  -a  line  of  burn- 
ing  wrecks  bohin.I 

In  Ib9i3  the  town  was  so  strongly  guarded  that  it  easily  repulsed  the  Chevalier 
Nesmond,  who  attacked  it  with  ten  French  men-of-war.  The  expedition  of  tue 
daring  Iberville  was  more  successful,  and  occupied  the  place.    In  November,  1704, 

9  M 


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ST.    JOHN'S. 


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a  fleet  from  Quebec  landed  a  Fn'nch  and  Indian  force  at  Plncentla,  whence  they 
nilvaiKod  alioiif  tin-  iiiitldlo  of  January.  Tliey  were  about  4(iO  strong,  and  crushed 
the  P«'ninsuia  of  Avaluu  on  snow-^hcx's.  Tlie  town  ot  I{ay  IJulls  Lihuulu)  .>^urien- 
dered  on  tlieir  aiipidaili,  and  a  long  and  painful  inidvvinter  niaicli  enciu d,  over  the 
mountains  and  through  the  dtep  snows.  'J'lie  Fr«'n<  h  Uiiiitia  of  Piactntia  \v(  re  sc  nt 
in  at  dawn  to  surprise  tlie  fort  at  St.  John's,  but  could  not  enter  the  works  for  lack 
of  sealiug-ladders  ;  so  they  contented  theuiselves  with  oecup\ing  the  town  and 
Quiddy  Viddy.  'J  lie  fort  was  now  be>ieged  for  33  ilaxs,  in  a  KNison  of  inten^e  rold, 
when  even  the  harbor  was  frozen  over;  hut  the  hngli^h  held  out  Viiliantly,  and 
showered  balls  and  bonibs  ujion  the  town,  finally  succeeding  in  dislodging  the  en- 
emy and  putting  them  in  full  retreat. 

In  June,  ITtili,  the  Count  dllausonvillc  entered  thie  Bay  Bulls  witii  a  powerful 
French  fleet,  consisting  ot  the  Rohuste,  74;  L'Evrilli,  t]4 ;  La  Garonne,  44;  and 
La  Lirornt,  30.  lie  enorted  several  transports,  whence  1,500  .-oldiers  were  landed. 
This  force  marched  on  St.  John's,  which  surrendered  on  summons,  tcgetlur  with 
the  English  frigate  Lirujhwont.  Lord  t'olville's  fleet  hastened  up  from  llalifax  J.nd 
blot'kaded  Adn.iral  He  Ternay  in  the  harbor  of  St.  John,  vhile  land  forces  were  de- 
barked at  Torbay  and  Quiddy  Viddy.  The  liist-named  detachnKUt  (Hojal  An  eri- 
cans  iind  Highlanders)  proceeded  to  storm  the  works  on  Signal  Hill,  but  the  Fren-.h 
fought  desperately,  and  held  tlum  ai  lay  until  the  English  forces  from  Torbn\  came 
in  and  suicteded  in  carr\iiig  the  entiie  line  of  heights.  In  the  n.enn  tin  e,  a  di  use 
fog  had  settled  over  the  coatt,  ui.der  who.-e  protection  De  Ternay  ltd  his  .squadron 
through- the  british  line  of  blockade,  and  gained  the  open  sea.  In  HOG  a  forn  idable 
I  reneh  fteet,  under  Adn.iral  Hiehery  ((onsisting  of  7  line-of-batt.e  ships  and  several 
frigates),  menaced  St.  John's,  then  tonmanded  by  Adniinil  Sir  Jiin.es  Wallace. 
Strong  batteries  were  erected  along  the  Narrows;  fire-.ships  were  drawn  up  in  the 
harbor;  a  chain  was  stretched  across  the  eiitrai;<e;  and  the  entire  body  of  the 
people  was  (ailed  under  arns.  The  hostile  fliet  blotknded  the  port  for  many  da\8, 
out  was  kept  at  hay  hy  the  batteries  on  Signal  Hill ;  and  after  an  iiieflcctual  attenpt 
at  attack,  sailed  away  to  the  S.  Feb.  12,  ISKi,  a  disastrous  fire  occurr<'d  at  St. 
John's,  by  which  l,r)(iO  persons  were  left  homeless;  and  great  suffering  would  have 
ensued  had  it  not  bc>en  for  the  citiz.ens  of  Boston,  who  despatched  a  ship  loaded  with 
provisions  and  clothing  for  gratuitous  distiibution  an.ong  the  in.poverished  people. 
Nov  7,  1817.  another  terrible  fire  occurred  here,  by  whidi  $2,00O,(j(j0  worth  of 
property  was  destroyed;  and  this  was  followed,  within  2  weeks,  by  a  third  dis- 
astrous confiagration.  This  succession  of  calamities  cauio  near  resulting  in  tire 
abandonment  of  the  colony,  and  the  people  were  goaded  by  hunger  to  a  succession 
of  Jeeds  of  crime  and  to  organized  violations  of  the  laws  In  lb25  the  first  highway 
was  buib  (from  St.  John's  to  I'ortugal  Covei  ;  in  1838  the  first  session  of  the  Colonial 
Parliament  wa.s  held ;  and  the  first  steamship  in  the  Newfoundland  waters  arrived 
here  in  1840. 

In  IStiO  the  city  was  convulsed  by  a  terrible  riot,  arising  from  politico-religious 
causes,  and  threatening  wide  ruin.  An  immense  mob  of  armed  Irishmen  attac  ked 
and  pillaged  the  stores  on  Water  St.,  and  filled  the  lower  town  with  rapine  and  rob- 
bery. The  ancient  organizai,ion  called  the  Royal  Newfoundland  Companies  waa 
ordered  out  and  posted  near  the  Market  House,  where  the  troops  sufferecj  for  hours 
the  gibes  of  the  plunderers,  until  they  were  fired  upon  in  the  twilight,  when 
they  returned  a  point-blank  vollc^v,  which  caused  a  sad  carnage  in  the  insurgent 
crowd.  Then  the  great  Cathedral  bells  rang  out  wildly,  and  summoned  all  the 
rioters  to  that  building,  where  the  Bishop  exhorted  them  to  peace  and  forbearance, 
under  pain  of  excommunication.  After  a  remarkable  interview,  the  next  day,  be- 
tween the  Bishop  and  Gov.  Sir  Alexander  Bannerman,  this  tragical  revolt  was 
ended 

In  1870  St.  John's  had  21  sailing-vessels  <ind  6  steamers  engaged  in  the  sealing 
business,  and  their  crews  amounted  to  1  fjSi  men.  In  1809  (the  latest  accessible 
statistics)  088  vessels,  with  a  tonnage  of  109,043  tons,  and  employing  5,400  men.  en- 
tei-ed  this  port ;  and  in  the  same  year  there  were  cleared  hence  677  vessels,  with 
4,937  men. 

St.  John's  has  4  foundries,  3  biscuit  bakeries,  2  tobacco  factories,  a  nail  factory,  a 
shoe  factory,  a  rupe-walk,  and  one  of  the  finest  graving  dock^-  in  tlie  world. 

The  new  railroad,  the  iirsl  to  be  uuiil  in  Newioundiand,  now  runs  from  St.  Jo'nn'a 
to  Uolyrood,  06  M.,  and  to  Harbor  Grace,  b5  M.,  and  Carbonear,  93  M.  It  is  being 
built  by  a  New-York  company,  and  will  be  extended  a.>)  rapidly  as  possible  to  tne 
Cvpper-miuea  at  Hall  s  bay,  310  .VI.  distant,  opening  up  a  valuable  mining  and  farm- 
ing country.  It  will  cost  !$3,000,00u,  and  the  company  receives  u  subsidy  ol 
$160,000  u  year  for  36  yeurS;  uua  u  ic;ud-gruut  uX  l,iUU,000  ucrea. 


PORTUGAL  COVE. 


Route  53.       195 


'hence  they 
luiiJ  crosfed 
'iltt)  suni-n- 
(il,  over  the 
ia  \v( !«'  suit 
)iks  tor  liK'lc 
V  town  niid 
intciuc  cold, 
liiiiitly,  mid 
li'iiig  thf  «n- 

1  a  powerful 
lue,  44  ;  und 
were  landed, 
(gether  with 
Halifax  !>nd 
irct's  were  de- 
llojal  An  eri- 
t  the  Freii'.h 
,  Torbo}  rnn.e 
tin  e,  a  dense 
his  sqnadroa 
i  a  lorn  idable 
)S  and  several 
tnies  Wallace, 
wn  up  in  the 
}  body  of  the 
)r  many  daxs, 
etnal  attm  pt 
M'urred  at  ^t. 
ig  would  have 
ip  loaded  with 
Irished  people. 
0(J0  worth  of 
a  third  dis- 
hing in  the 
I  succession 
tirst  highway 
the  (.oloniai 
a  tors  arrived 

litico-religious 
men  attai  ked 
pine  and  rob- 
om panics  waa 

red  for  hours 
wiUght,  when 

the  insurgent 
iioned  all  the 
forbearance, 

next  day,  >)e- 

al  revolt  was 

n  the  pealing 
test  accessible 
,466  nien.  en- 
vessels,  with 

nail  factory,  a 
jrld. 
m  St.  John's 
.  It  is  being 
ossible  to  tu« 
ing  and  farui- 
a  iiubiiidy  ol 


53.   The  Environs  of  St.  John's. 

"  On  either  side  of  the  city  of  St.  John's,  stretching  in  a  semicircle  along  the  rug- 

fted  coa.st,  at  an  uveiage  radius  from  the  centre  of  7  or  H  M.,  a  number  of  little  fish- 
ng-coves  or  hay.s  attract,  during  the  sweet  and  enjoyable  summer,  all  persons  who 
can  connnand  tue  usv  of  a  horse  to  revel  in  tlieir  beauties.  Each  little  bay  is  but  a 
slice  of  tlic  liigii  clid-i  scooped  out  by  the  friction  of  tlie  mighty  pressure  of  the  At- 
lantic waves  ;  and  leading  down  to  its  shingled  beach,  each  boasts  of  a  lovely  green 
valley  through  whicji  infillibly  a  tumbhng  noisy  trout-burn  pours  back  the  waters 
evaporated  from  the  parent  surface."     (Lt.-Col.  McCre.v  ) 

The  country  about  tiio  capital  is  not  naturally  productive,  but  has  been  made  to 
bring  fo-  Mi  fruit  and  vegetables  by  careful  labor,  and  now  supports  a  considerable 
farming  population.  The  roads  an;  fine,  being  for  the  most  part  macadamized  and 
free  from  mud  3  M.  beyond  the  city  is  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  pleasantly  situated  ia 
a  small  forest. 

Quiddy-  Vtddy  Lake  is  frequently  visited  by  the  people  of  St.  John's. 
The  favorite  drive  is  to  Portugal  Cove,  over  a  road  tliat  has  been  de- 
scribed as  posses.sing  a  "sad  and  desolate  bosiuty."  This  road  passes  the 
Windsor  Lake,  or  Twenty-Mile  Pond,  '*a  large  picturesque  sheet  of  water, 
with  some  pretty,  lonely-looking  islands."  The  inn  at  Portugal  Cove 
looks  out  on  a  handsome  cascade,  and  is  a  favorite  goal  for  wedding-tours 
from  St.  John's.     Barges  run  from  St.  John's  to  Topsail. 

"  The  scenery  about  Portugal  Cove  well  repays  the  ride  of  nearly  10  M.  on  a  good 
roail  froip.  St  .John's.  It  is  wildly  romantic,  and  just  before  entering  the  village  i.s 
very  beautiful.  A  succession  of  lofty  hills  on  e  ich  side  tower  over  the  road,  and 
shut  out  everything  but  their  conical  or  mammillated  peaks,  covered  witli  wild 
stunted  forest  and  bold  masses  of  rock,  breaking  througli  with  a  tiny  waterfill  from 
the  .higiiest,  which  in  winter  hangs  down  in  perpendicular  rilges  of  yellow  ice. 
Turning  sud  lenly  out  of  one  of  the  wiltest  scenes,  you  cross  a  little  brid;5o,  and  the 
romantic  scattered  village  is  hanging  over  t'.ie  abrupt  rocky  shore,  with  its  fisli-flakea 
and  busy  little  anchorage  open  to  the  sig'it,  closed  in  the  distance  by  the  shores  of 
(.'onception  hay,  lofty  and  blue,  part  of  which  are  concealed  by  the  picturesque  Belle 

Isle.'"      ^SlR  It.   BONNVCASTL  :.) 

"  On  ai)!)roaching  Portugal  Cove,  the  eye  is  struck  by  the  serrated  and  picturesque 
outline  of  tlie  hills  which  run  along  the  coast  from  it  towards  Cape  St.  Francis, 
and  presently  delig'iti^d  witli  the  wild  beauty  of  the  little  valley  or  glen  at  the  mouth 
of  wiiich  the  cove  is  situated.  The  road  win  Is  with  several  turns  down  the  side  of 
the  valley,  into  which  some  small  brooks  hurry  their  waters,  flashing  in  the  sur»- 
shine  as  they  leap  over  the  rocks  and  down  tlie  ledges,  through  the  dark  green  of 
the  woods.  On  turning  the  shoulder  of  one  of  the  hill-slopes,  the  view  opens  upoa 
Conception  Bay,  with  the  rocky  points  of  the  cove  immediately  below."  (PaoF. 
JUK  ;s.) 

Another  favorite  excursion  is  to  Virginia  Water,  the  former  summer 
residence  of  the  governors  of  Newfoundland.  It  is  reached  by  way  of 
the  King's  Bridge  and  the  pretty  little  Quiddy-Viddy  Lake,  beyond  which 
tiie  Bailyhaly  Bog  is  crossed,  and  the  carriage  reaches  the  secluded  domain 
of  Virginia  Water.  It  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  lake  of  deep  water,  3  M. 
in  circunilcrence,  "  indented  with  little  grass-edged  bays,  fringed  and 
featl'cred  to  the  limpid  edge  with  dark  dense  woods."  Beyond  this  point 
the  drive  may  be  protracted  to  Logie  Bay,  a  small  cove  between  projecting 
cliifs,  with  bold  and  striking  shore  sconery.  Logie  Bay  is  4  M.,  and  Tor- 
bay  is  8-9  M.  from  St.  John's,  by  a  .ino  road  which  crosses  the  high  and 
mossy  barrens,  and  affords  broad  sea-views  from  the  cliffs.  The  country 
is  thinly  settled,  and  is  crossed  by  several  trout-brooks. 


M 

M 

1 

l-r 

1 

*»'., 

1^' 

v 


r»li 


T  : 


?«■     ! 


196      Route  54. 


TORBAY. 


f  ■ 


•t 


:  II 


I  i 


Logie  Bay  is  remarkable  for  the  wildness  of  its  rocit  and  ol'flF  scenery.  "  Notliing 
lil<e  a  beacii  is  to  be  found  anywhere  on  this  coast,  the  descent  to  the  sea  being 
always  ditficult  and  K<'i>t'rally  iiupracticable  In  Lo^Me  Hay  tiie  ti.icii-iiedded  darlc 
sandstones  and  congloinenites  stand  bold  and  bare  in  round-topped  hills  and  preci- 
pices 3-4(K)  ft.  in  height,  with  occa.>-ional  fissures  traversing  their  jagged  cliffs, 
and  the  boiling  waves  of  the  Atlantic  corling  around  their  feet  in  white  eddies  or 
leaping  against  their  sides  with  huge  spouts  of  foam  aiid  spray."     (I'kof.  Jukes.) 

"Torbay  is  an  arm  of  the  .sea.  —  a  short,  strong  ami  with  a  slim  hnnd  and  finger, 
reaching  into  the  rocky  land  and  touching  the  svaterfalls  and  rapids  of  a  pretty 
broolt.  Her"  is  a  little  village,  with  Komish  and  Protestant  steeples,  and  the  dwell- 
ings of  fishermen,  with  the  universiil  appendages  of  fishing-houses,  boats,  and  Hakes. 
One  seldom  looks  upon  a  hamlet  so  picturesijue  and  wild."  On  the  N.  shore  of  the 
bay  is  a  long  line  of  clifls,  3-400  ft.  high,  surf-beaten  and  majestic,  and  fuiely 
observed  by  taking  a  boat  out  from  Torbay  and  coasting  to  the  N  "At  one  point, 
where  tlie  rocks  recede  from  the  main  front  and  form  a  kind  of  headland,  the  strata*, 
6-8  ft.  thick,  assume  the  form  of  a  pyramid,  from  a  bioad  ba.'-e  of  a  hundred  yards 
or  more  running  up  to  meet  in  a  point.  The  heart  of  this  vast  cave  has  partly 
fallen  out,  and  left  the  resemblance  of  an  enormous  tent  with  cavernous  rtce.^ses 
and  halls,  in  which  the  shades  of  evening  were  already  lurking,  and  the  surf  waa 
Bounding  mournfully.  Occasionally  it  was  musical,  pealing  forth  like  the  low  tones 
of  a  great  organ  with  awful  solemnity.  Now  and  then,  the  gloomy  silence  of  a  min- 
ute was  broken  by  the  crash  of  a  billow  far  within,  wheu  the  reverberations  were 
like  the  slamming  of  great  doors." 

"  After  passing  this  grand  specimen  of  the  architecture  of  the  sea,  there  appeared 
long  rocky  reaches,  like  Egyptian  temples,  old  dead  cliffs  of  yellowish  gray  checked 
off  by  lines  and  seams  into  squares,  and  having  the  resemblance,  where  they  hare 
fallen  out  into  the  ocean,  of  doors  and  windows  opening  in  upon  the  fresUer  stone." 
(Noble.) 


1     ! 


64  The  Strait  Shore  of  Avalon.  — St  John's  to  Cape  Eace. 

That  portion  of  the  Peninsula  of  Avalon  which  fronts  to  the  eastward  on  the 
Atlantic  has  been  termed  the  Strait  Shore,  on  account  of  its  generally  undcviating 
line  of  direction.  Its  outports  may  be  visited  either  by  the  Friday  mail-con- 
veyance, through  Petty  Harbor,  Bay  Bulls,  Ferr^land,  and  Ileuewse,  or  by  the 
Western  Coastal  steamer  (see  Route  (iO). 

Distances  by  K«acl,  — St.  John's  to  Blackhead,  4  M. ;  Petty  llaibor,  10; 
Bay  Bulls,  19;  \Vitle.':s  Bay,  22;  Mobile,  24;  Toad  Cove,  26;  La  Manche,  32; 
Brigus,  34;  Cape  Broyle,  38;  Caplin  Cove,  42;  i'erryland,  44 ;  Aquafort,48;  Fer- 
meuse,  51 ;  Reuewse,  54  ;  Cape  Race,  C4. 

"  The  road,  one  of  the  finest  I  ever  saw,  —  an  old-fashioned  English  gravel-road, 
smooth  and  hard  almost  as  iron,  a  very  luxury  for  the  wheels  of  a  springle^s  wagon, 
—  keeps  up  the  bed  of  a  small  river,  a  good-sized  trout-strciim,  liowing  from  the  in- 
land valley  into  the  harbor  of  i>t  John's.  Contrasted  with  the  bold  reyions  that 
front  the  ocean,  these  valleys  are  soft  and  fertile.  We  passed  snsooth  meadows,  and 
eloping  plough-lands,  and  green  pastures,  and  houses  peeping  out  of  pietty  groves. 
One  might  have  called  it  a  Canadian  or  New-Hampshire  vale."  The  road  passes 
geveral  lakelets  and  trout-streams,  and  gives  fine  views  of  the  ocean  on  the  1. ,  being 
also  one  of  the  most  smooth  and  firmly  built  of  highways.  "No  nation  makes  such 
roads  as  these,  in  a  land  bristling  with  rugged  difficulties,  that  has  noi.  wound  its 
■way  up  to  the  summit  of  power  and  cultivation."  The  hills  along  the  coast  closely 
resemble  the  Cordillera  peaks ;  and  from  the  bald  summits  on  the  \V.,  Trinity  Bay 
may  be  seen. 

The  mail-road  rnnninc;  S.  from  St.  John's  ptispes  Waterford  Bridge  and 
soon  approache.s  Blackhead,  a  Catliolic  village  near  an  iron-bound  shore 
whose  great  cliffs  have  been  worn  into  fantastic  shapes  by  the  crash  and 


f.-stnrx    Ct 


\f\mt       ♦  1^ 


easterly  point  of  North  Americn,  1,656  M.  from  Valentia  Bay,  in  Ireland. 
On  the  summit  of  the  cape,  264  ft.  above  the  sea,  is  a  red-and-white  striped 
tower  sustaining  a  revolving  light  which  is  yisible  for  22  M. 


BAY  BULLS. 


Route  54.       197 


Ivhite  stripea 


The  road  now  pnsscs  between  "  woody  banks  running  through  an  un- 
duhithig  country  but  half  rechumed  c)n  the  r.,  while  on  the  I.  the  slopes 
stretch  up  to  the  bree/.y  headhmds,  beyond  whic'.i  tliore  is  nothing  but  sea 
and  cloud  from  tliis  to  I'urope."  /'t//^  Harbor  is  4  M.  S.  W.  of  Capo 
Spear  and  10  M.  from  St.  .loliu's,  and  is  a  village  of  900  iidiabitants,  wilh 
a  refinery  of  cod-liver  oil  and  long  lines  of  evergreen  li.sh-flaUes.  OlF  this 
point  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Ticced  was  wrecked  in  1S14,  and  60  men  were 
drowned.  The  houses  of  Petty  Harbor  are  situated  in  a  narrow  glen  at 
the  foot  of  frowning  and  barren  ridges.  The  harbor  at  the  Aiot  of  thii^ 
ravine  is  small  and  insecr .  .  The  dark  liills  to  the  AV.  attain  a  height  of 
700  ft.  along  the  unbroken  shore  Avhich  leads  S.  to  Bay  Bulls;  and  at 
about  4  M.  from  Pe'ty  Harbor  is  the  *  Spout,  a  deep  cavern  in  the  sea^ 
ward  clifls,  in  whose  top  is  a  hole,  through  which,  at  liigli  tide  and  in  a 
heavy  sea,  the  water  shoots  up  every  half-minute  in  a  roaring  fountain 
-vhich  is  seen  3  ^I.  off  at  sea.  The  road  now  approaches  lonclay  Hill  (810 
ft.  high ),  the  chief  elevation  on  th  s  coast,  and  reaches  Bay  Bulls,  a  village 
of  700  inhabitants.  This  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  outports,  and 
affouls  a  refuge  to  vessels  that  are  unabie,  on  account  of  storms  or  ice,  to 
make  the  harbor  of  St.  John's.  There  are  several  farms  near  the  bay,  but 
most  of  the  inhabitants  are  engaged  m  the  cod-fisherv,  which  is  carried 
on  from  large  open  boats.  This  ancient  settlement  was  exposed  to  great 
vicissitudes  during  the  conflicts  between  the  French  and  the  English  for 
the  possession  of  Newfoundland,  and  was  totally  destroyed  by  Admiral 
Richery  (French)  in  1796.  Fine  sportmg  is  found  in  this  vicinity,  all  along 
shore,  and  shooting-parties  leave  St.  John's  during  the  season  for  several 
days'  adventure  hereabouts. 

In  1696  the  Frencri  frigates  Pilican,  Diamant,  Count  dp.  Toulouse,  Vendnns^e^ 
Philippe,  and  llarcourt  met  the  British  man-of-war  Sapphire.  nlT  Cajie  Spear,  and 
chased  it  into  Bay  Bulls.  A  naval  ))attlo  of  several  hours'  duration  was  closed  by 
the  complete  diflcouifiture  of  the  British,  who  set  fire  to  the  shattered  Sapphire  and 
abandoned  her.  The  French  sailors  boarded  her  immediately,  but  were  destroyed 
by  the  explosion  of  the  magazine. 

Witless  Bail  is  the  next  village,  and  has  nearly  1,000  inhabitants,  with  a 
large  and  prominent  Catholic  church.  Cod-fishing  is  carried  on  to  a  great 
extent  oft'  this  shore,  also  off  Mobile,  the  next  settlement  to  the  S.  Beyond 
the  rock-bound  hamlets  of  Toad  Cove,  La  ilaache,  and  Brigus,  the  road 
reaches  Cape  Broyle. 

In  1628  Cape  Broyle  was  captured  by  Admiral  de  la  Rade,  with  three  French  war- 
Te-s(>ls,  who  also  took  the  fishing-fleet  then  in  the  harbor.  But  Sir  George  Calvert 
J'l'Mt  from  the  capital  of  Avalon  two  frigates  (one  of  which  carried  24  guns)  and  sev- 
•M'al  liundred  men,  on  whose  approach  "  the  French  let  slip  their  cables,  and  made 
to  sea  as  fast  as  they  could."'  Calvert's  men  retaliated  by  harrying  the  French 
s^itions  at  Trepassey,  where  they  captured  six  ships  of  Bayonne  and  St.  Jean 
de  JiUz. 

Cape  Broyle  is  a  prosperous  fishing-settlement  on  Broyle  Harbor,  near 

the  mountainous  headland  of  Cape  Broyle  (552  ft.  high).     There  is  good 

snhnnn-fishing  on  the  river  which  runs  S.  E.  to  the  liarbor  from  the  foot 

of  Hell  Hill. 


'I. 


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*•■■;■; 


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1   •      .   r    '  • 
■■'■    ■  »  ■.■•\ 

.  ■    f         J     .   *: 

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i''.  .ti  kSJkM 

w    i 


198      Route  54. 


FERRYLAND. 


Ferryland  is  2  M.  beyond  tho  Caplin-Ciyi-^i  settlcmont,  nnd  is  the  capi- 
tal of  the  district  of  Ferryland.  It  has  about  1,000  inhabitants,  and  is  well 
located  on  level  ground  near  the  head  of  the  harbor.  In  the  immediate 
vicinity  are  several  prosperous  farms,  and  picturescpie  scenery  surrounds 
the  harbor  on  all  sides.  To  tho  S.  E.  is  Ferryland  Head,  on  which  is  a 
fixed  white  light,  200  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  16  M.  Olfthis  point 
are  the  slender  spires  of  rock  called  the  Hart'a  Ears.,  projecting  from  the 
sea  to  the  height  of  50  ft, 

Tn  Ifilt  (10*22)  KiuR  Jnmcs  T.  prantod  tho  proiit  peninsula  between  Trinity  and 
Pluccntia  Ba>s  to  Sir  (Jiorge  Calvert,  then  S^etrctary  of  State.  The  grantee  named 
\\\.^  new  domain  Avaloii,  in  honor  of  the  district  wliere  Ciiri.'.tian  tradition  oininij 
that  the  Ciospcl  was  lint  ]ir('.'u  bed  in  Britain  (the  present  Olaj-tonhurj  ).  It  was  de- 
signed to  found  here  u  Christian  colony,  with  the  broiuJest  prin(  iples  of  toleratiou 
tnd  charity.  Calvert  Knt  out  a  considerable  company  of . settlers, under  the  govern- 
i!:ent  of  Capt.  \Vynne,  and  a  colony  was  planted  at  Ferr\  land  The  reports  sent 
hack  to  England  coudrning  the  toil  and  productions  of  the  new  country  were  so 
favorable  that  Sir  George  Calvert  and  his  fandly  soon  joinetl  the  colonists.  Under 
his  administration  an  equitable  government  was  established,  fortifications  were 
erected,  and  other  improvements  instituted.  Lord  Haitinn  re  had  but  little  jleasure 
of  his 'settlement  in  Avalon.  lie  found  that  he  had  been  greatly  deceived  about  the 
climate  and  the  nature  o)  the  soil.  The  Puritans  also  began  to  harass  him  ;  and 
Erasmus  Stourton,  one  of  tluir  n.inisters,  not  only  preached  dissent  under  his  eyes 
at  Ferryland,  but  went  to  England  and  reported  to  the  I'rivy  Counc  il  that  Balti- 
niore's  priests  said  mass  and  had  "all  the  other  ceremonies  of  the  Church  of  Rome, 
in  tho  ample  manner  as  -tis  used  in  Spain."  Finally,  alter  trials  by  storm  and  by 
Bchismatics,  Lord  Baltimore  died  (in  It  32),  leaving  to  his  son  Cecil,  2d  Lord  llalti- 
more,  the  honor  of  founding  Maryland,  on  the  grant  already  secured  from  the  king. 
In  that  more  favored  .'outheru  clin  e  afterwards  arose  the  great  tity  which  com- 
memorates and  honors  the  name  of  B.'.LTiMonK. 

In  1G37  Sir  David  Kirke  was  appointed  Count  Palatine  of  Newfoundland,  and  estab- 
lished himself  at  Ferryland.  He  hoisted  the  royal  standard  on  the  forts,  and  main- 
tained a  strong  (and  .'ometimes  liarsh)  rule  over  the  island  At  the  outbreak  of  the 
English  Revolution  (1042),  l\irke"s  brothers  joined  King  Charles's  fanes  and  fought 
bravely  through  the  war,  while  Sir  David  strengthetied  his  Newfoundland  forts  and 
established  a  powerfrl  and  vell-arn  rd  fleet.  He  otTered  tlu'  King  a  .^afe  asylum  in 
his  domain  ;  and  the  fiery  Prince  Rupert,  with  the  royal  Channel  tleet,  was  sailing 
to  Newfoundland  to  join  Kirke's  forces,  when  he  was  htadcd  oil  by  the  fleet  of  tlio 
Conunon wealth,  under  Sir  George  Ayscuc.  After  the  fall  of  the  Stuarts,  Sir  David 
was  carried  to  Flngland  in  a  vessel  of  the  Republic  (in  1051),  to  be  tried  on  various 
charges;  but  he  bribed  Cromweirs  son  in-law,  and  was  released,  returning  to  Ferry- 
land, where  he  died  in  1050,  after  having  governed  the  island  f<  r  over  20  \cars.  At 
a  later  day  this  town  became  a  )tort  of  some  inportance,  and  was  the  scene  of  re- 
peated naVal  attacks  during  the  French  wars.  In  1073  it  was  taken  and  plundered 
by  4  Dutch  frigates. 

In  l(;y4  Ferryland  was  attacked  by  2  largo  French  frigates,  carrying  90  guns, 
which  opened  a  furious  cannonade  on  the  town.  But  the  H'dliam  and  ]\]nnj,  16, 
was  lying  in  the  harbor,  with  9  merchant-ships,  and  their  crew<  built  batteries  at 
the  harbor-mouth,  whence,  with  the  guns  of  the  privateer,  they  iuHicted  such  dam- 
age on  the  enemy  that  they  withdrew,  after  a  5  hours"  cannonade,  having  lost 
about  90  men.  In  1702  the  powerful  French  fleet  of  Admiral  do  Teruay  was  driven 
otf  by  a  battery  on  Dois  Island. 

Aqunfort  lies  S.  W.  of  Ferryland,  and  is  a  small  hamlet  situated  on  a 
long,  deep,  and  narrow  harbor  embosomed  in  lofty  hills.  The  next  setilc- 
ment  h  Fermense,  with  600  iidiabitants  and  a  Catholic  church  and  convent. 
It  is  on  the  shore  of  Admiral's  Cove,  in  the  deep  and  secure  harbor  of 
Fermeuse,  and  the  people  are  engaged  in  the  cod  and  salmon  fisheries. 
Jieneu'se  is  an  ancient  and  decadent  port  16  M.  S.  of  Ferryland,  situated  on 


CAPE   RACE. 


Route  51      199 


is  the  capi- 
nnd  is  well 
I  immediate 
y  siirrnunds 
which  is  a 
»tV  tills  point 
iig  from  the 


1  Trinity  and 
raiitit!  iiaiUL'd 
iiditiou  claiiiia 
y).     Itwnsde- 
\  of  toleratiou 
k'l-  the  govern- 
L*  reports  sent 
(iintry  \\«re  so 
onists.     Under 
ificiitions  were 
:  little  I'leasure 
lived  about  the 
rasH  hiui ;  and 
under  his  eyes 
nil  that  Balti- 
lurch  dl  Rome, 
y  storui  and  by 
2d  Lord  Talti- 
Ironi  the  king 
ity  which  com- 

and,andestab- 
ts,  and  niain- 

utbreuk  of  the 
cs  and  fought 
md  forts  and 
afe  usyluni  in 
t,  was  sailing 

the  fleet  of  the 
rts.  Sir  David 

ied  on  various 

rning  to  Ferry- 
20  \ears.     At 

he  scene  of  re- 

and  plundered 

rying  90  guns, 
and  I\lnrij,  16, 
ilt  batteries  at 
cted  such  dam- 
having  lost 
nay  was  driven 

■■ituated  on  a 
lO  next  setile- 
.  and  convent, 
re  hi\rbor  of 
ion  fisheries. 
Id,  situated  on 


an  indifferent  harhoV  which  lies  b  ween  Burnt  Point  and  Renewse  Head. 
3-4  ^I.  inland  are  the  ruppjed  lumunocks  called  the  lied  Hills,  whence 
the  eastern  hill  ran;;e  runs  30  M.  N.  across  Avalon  to  Holyrood. 

fl-8  M.  from  llenewse  are  the  tall  and  shaggy  hills  called  the  ButterpotH, 
which  command  broad  views  over  Avalon,  and  from  Hay  Hulls  to  tlie  W.  shore  of 
Tivpassey  Hay.  The  Uutterpots  of  Holyrood  are  also  st-eii  from  this  point ;  and  Prof. 
Jukes  counted  80  lakes  in  sight  from  the  main  peak  (which  is  Or)o  ft.  high). 

S.  of  this  point  extends  a  fatal  iron-bound  coast,  on  which  scores  of  vessels,  veiled 
in  impenetr.ible  fog  or  swept  inward  by  resistless  storms,  have  been  dashed  in  pieces. 
A  very  slight  error  in  reckoning  will  throw  vessels  bound  S  of  Cape  Ra<  e  upon  tliis 
shore,  and  then,  if  the  (JajH!  Race  and  Ferryland  lights  are  wrapped  in  the  dense 
black  fog  peculiar  to  tluisO  waters,  the  chances  of  disast*!r  are  great.  The  erection 
of  a  fog-whistle  on  the  cape  has  greatly  lessened  the  p«'rils  of  navigation  here.  The 
oceau  steamships  ylHifio-iSlaarort,  Ar^o^ViUd  City  of  Pkilatlelpkia  were  lost  on  Capo 
Race. 

Cape  Race  is  the  S.  p].  point  of  Newfoundland,  and  is  a  rugged  head- 
land of  black  slaty  rock  thrown  up  in  vertical  strata.  It  is  provided  with 
a  powerful  light,  180  ft.  above  tlie  sea,  and  visible  for  15  M.  The  great 
polar  current  sweeps  in  close  by  the  cape  and  turns  around  it  to  the 
W.  N.  VV.,  forming,  together  with  the  ordinary  tides  and  the  bay-currents, 
a  complexity  of  strerms  that  causes  many  wrecks. 

Icebergs  are  to  be  seen  off  this  shore  at  almost  all  seasons,  and  the  dense  fogs  are 
often  illumined  by  the  p<'culiar  white  glare  which  precedes  them.  Field-ice  is  also 
common  here  during  the  spring  and  early  summer,  but  is  easily  avoided  by  the 
warning  of  the  "  ice  blink."  Throughout  the  summer  and  autunm  the  fog  broods 
over  this  .-hore  almost  incessantly,  and  vessels  arc  navigated  by  casting  the  lead  and 
following  the  soundings  which  are  marked  out  with  such  precision  on  the  Admi- 
ralty charts,  t)  M.  K.  of  Cape  Race  is  the  B-illanl  Bank,  which  is  18  M.  long  and 
2-12  M.  wide,  with  a  depth  of  water  of  15    26  fathoms. 

Cape  R;ice  is  distant,  by  greit-circle  sailing,  from  New  York,  1,010  M.  ;  Boston, 
820;  Portland,  779;  St.  .John,  N.  H.,  715;  Halifax,  4B;  Miramichi,  492;  Quebec, 
836  ;  Cape  Clear,  1,713  ;  Oalway ,  1,721  ;  Liverpool,  1,970. 

The  Grand  Banks  of  Newfoundland  are  about  50  M.  E.  of  Cape  Race. 
They  extend  for  4  degrees  N.  and  S.  and  5  degrees  E.  and  W.  (at  45°  N. 
latitude)  running  S.  to  a  point,  liiey  consist  of  vast  submerged  sand- 
banks, on  which  the  water  is  from  30  to  60  fathoms  deep,  and  are  strewn 
with  shells.  Here  are  found  innumerable  codfish,  generally  occupying 
the  shallovver  waters  over  the  sandy  bottoms,  and  feeding  on  the  shoals  of 
smaller  fish  below.  They  pass  out  into  the  deeper  waters  late  in  Novem- 
ber, but  return  to  the  Banks  in  February,  and  fatten  rapidly.  Immense 
fleets  are  engaged  in  the  fisheries  here,  and  it  is  estimated  that  over 
100,000  men  are  dependent  on  this  industry. 

Throughout  a  great  part  of  the  spring,  pum.ncr,  and  fall,  the  Grand  Banks  are 
cnvi;red  by  rarely  broken  fois,  through  which  falls  an  almo.-t  ince.'i'^ant  slow  rain. 
Soiuotimes  these  fogs  are  so  den.-<o  that  objects  within  60  ft.  are  totally  invisible,  at 
v.'.iich  times  the  fi.sJiing-vessels  at  anchor  are  liable  to  bo  run  down  by  the  gn-at 
Atlantic  steamers.  The  dangerous  proximity  of  icebergs  (which  drift  across  and 
ground  on  the  Banks)  i.^  indicated  by  the  sudden  and  intense  coldness  which  tlicy 
send  through  even  a  midsummer  day,  by  the  peculiar  wliito  glare  in  the  air  about 
them,  and  by  the  roaring  of  the  breakers  on  their  sides. 

It  was  on  the  Grand  Banks,  not  far  from  Cape  Race,  that  the  first  battle  of  the 
Seven  Years'  War  was  fougLit.    June  8, 1755,  the  British  60-guu  frigates  Dunkirk 


■I*  *1 
■  •  t 

■.•:♦(    »i| 


■.  i.t 


iMU 


>.i 


/     !     .. 


■'Hr 


200      Route  55. 


THE  GRAND   BANKS. 


,  t,i 


i™  1 1  If 


5.    :! 


!t 


and  Defiance  wore  crulsinpc  nhnwt  in  a  donsp  fop;,  wlirn  thoy  Biot  the  Fronch  men-of- 
w.ir  A'rir/e  Huil  Li/s.  For  five  hours  tlir  liattlt^  ('(intimicil,  ami  a  cinitimial  can- 
Iioiunlc  was  kept  up  Ix'fwccM  tlic  lu)stil<'  ships.  Th»'  KicikIi  wen-  oVfiiiiatclMd,  hut 
fought  valiaiitl.N ,  iiitlictinj.;  lit-avy  lossi-s  on  the  assailants  (tiio  l)iiitkir/c  aloiif  U»t  'JO 
Uicii).  Wlicn  they  fiMally  sinicndori'd,  the  Li/s  wax  found  to  cuutuiu  $4(1(1,(100  in 
dpccic  and  H  coinpaiiit's  of  iiifuutry. 

Th«' vicinity  of  Cape  llacc  was  for  sonH>  time  the  <T\iisin)i->!;round  of  the  U.  S. 
fripite  CoiistitiKioii,  in  1«12,  and  in  tliew;  waters  she  captured  tlie  AfJiona,  the  Atte- 
litii ,  and  other  vessels. 

Near  the  edfje  of  the  (Jrand  Hank  (in  lat.  41"  41'  N  ,  lonj?  m°  18'  \Y  )  occurred 
the  famous  sea-(i;^ht  between  tlie  ('onstitiilion  and  the  (itunicif,  wiio.«e  result  filled 
the  linited  States  with  rcjoiciufj;,  and  impaired  the  prestige  of  the  IJritish  navy.  On 
the  afternoon  of  Aujj.  11),  1S12,  the  I'ox.^titution  sifrhted  the  Giienicre,  and  hore 
down  upon  iier  with  double-shotted  batteries.  The  British  ship  wa.«  8oniewhat  in- 
ferior in  force,  but  attacked  the  Anieriean  with  the  eontideiice  of  victory.  The  ("on- 
stimtian  reieived  several  broadsides  in  silence,  but  when  within  half  pistol-shot  di.s- 
eharjred  her  tremendous  batteries,  and  followed  with  such  a  fire  of  deadly  precision 
that  the  (iitrrricie  was  Koon  left  a  dismasted  and  shattered  wreck.  'I'he  liritish  ship 
then  surrendered,  having  lost  101  men  in  tlie  action,  while  her  antagonist  lost  but 
14.     The  Gutrriere  had  38  guns,  and  the  Constilutiou  had  44. 

55.  St.  John's  to  Labrador.  —  Northern  Newfoundland. 

Instances.  S^t.  .lohn's  to  Old  Perlican,  47  M. ;  Trinity,  68  :  Catalina,  87  ;  Uona- 
vi.-ta,  107;  King's  Cove,  llti;  Urcenspond,  148;  Ko^o,  214;  Twillii.gate,  232;  Ex- 
ploits, 24!) ;  Little  bay  Island.  284  :  Little  Bay,  21)3;  Nip|)er's  Harbor,  30G  ;  Betts 
Cove,  300;  Tilt  Cove,  317;  Coachmans  Cove,  341);  Conehe,  31)0;  St.  Anthony, 
435;  (inguet,  450;  Battle  Harbor,  404;  >pear  Harbor,  500;  Francis  Harbor 
iJiglit,  618  ;  Dead  Island,  53o;  Veni.>^on  Jsland,54l;  Punch  Bowl,  553;  Batteaux, 
603;  Indum  Tickle,  578;  Grady,  tiOl ;  I^ong  Island,  (i(i8;  I'ack's  Harbor.  (j2l ;  Kigo- 
lette,0^0;  Indian  Harbor,  051» ;  IJrig  Htrbor,  0t)5 ;  Holton,  071;  Cape  Harrison, 
703;  llagged  Harbor,  710;  Adnaviek,  720;  Mauuock's  Island,  740;  JS'ack,  703; 
Turnavick,  708  ;  Cape  Ilarrigan,  818. 

Labrador  (  oast,  of  ^'^/rait  of  Utile  Isle.  —  St.  .Iohn'.s  to  Battle  Harbor,  494  M. ; 
Cape  Charles,  600;  Chimney 'i'iekle,  504 ;  Chateau,  517  ;  lied  Ba>,544;  Lauce-au- 
Loup,  604;    Forteau,6(0;    Blanc  Sablon,  580  ;  Salmon  Kiver,  OOl. 

The  Northern  mail-steamer  leaves  St.  .John's,  N.  F.,  every  alternate  Monday  dur- 
ini?  the  .season  of  navigation,  and  visits  the  chief  outports  on  the  N.  coast  (so-called). 
The  fare's  are  as  follows:  St,  .John's  to  Bay-de-Verds,  10  s., —  .steerage,  6  s.;  to 
Trinity.  20 s. ,  — steerage,  10s.  ;  to  Konavista,27s.  6d.,  —steerage.  148.  ;  to  Greens- 
pond,  .30  s.,— steenge,  15s. ;  to  Fogo,  32  s.  Od.;  to  Twilling.ite,  35s.  ;  to  Exploits 
Island,  37  s.  6  d  ;  to  Tilt  Cove,  Bett's  Cove,  or  Nipper's  Harbor,  40  s.  At  its  most 
northerly  port  the  steamer  meets  the  Ilcrcnlcs,  the  Labrador  mail-steamer. 

The  fare  on  the  Labrador  steamer  is  $2  a  day.  which  includes  both  passage  and 
meals.  The  northern  boats  are  powerful  and  seaworthy,  but  the  faro  at  their 
tables  is  necessarily  of  the  plainest  Icind.  The  time  which  will  be  required  for  the 
Labrador  trip  is  nearly  four  weeks  (from  St.  .John's  back  to  St  .John's  again).  The 
expense  is  .about  #50  The  journey  should  be  begun  before  the  nnddle  of  July,  in 
order  to  avail  of  the  short  summer  in  these  hiirh  latitudes  It  would  be  prudent 
for  gentlemen  who  de-ire  to  mnke  this  tour  to  write  e  rly  in  the  season  to  the  agents 
of  the  steamship  lines,  to  assure  themselves  of  due  connections  and  to  learn  other 
particulars  Mr  .1.  Tavlor  Wood  is  the  agent  at  Halifax  for  the  steamer  from  that 
port  to  St  .John's  :  and  Bowriug  Brothers,  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  are  the  agents  for  the 
Northern  Coastal  Line. 

Passincf  out  between  the  stern  and  frowning  portals  of  the  harbor  of  St. 
Jolm's.  the  steamer  soon  takes  a  nortlierly  course,  and  opens  the  indenta- 
tion of  Lofiie.  Bay  on  the  W.  (see  pac^e  190).  After  runninfr  by  the  tal! 
cliffs  of  Sufjar  Loaf  and  Ked  Head  (700  ft.  high),  Tor  bay  is,  seen  opening 
to  the  W.,  within  which  is  the  village  of  the  same  n«rue. 


TRINITY. 


Jioute  65.      201 


Fronrh  men-of- 
('(iiitiiiual  can- 
■t'niiatclicil,  hut 
irk  aloiH'  l<>>t  1)0 
lin  !«4(l(t,(i(M»  In 

ml  of  the  U.  S. 
[ilioiia,  the  Aftt- 

8'  W  )  occurred 
hofe  result  tilled 
ritisli  iiav.v.  On 
iriere^  and  horo 
lis  poniewhat  in- 
torv.  The  Ton- 
f  pistol-nhot  dis- 
deadlv  precision 
'I'lie  liritish  ship 
agonist  lost  but 


■oundland. 

alinn,87  ;  IJona« 

11, gate,  '232;  KX' 

rhor,  3UG  ;  BettB 

i>;   8t.  Anthony, 

Francis  IL.rbor 

bW6 ;    liatteaux, 

irbor.  <521 ;  liigo- 

Cape  Harrison, 

40;  ]Suck,  703; 

I  arbor,  404  M.; 
544;  Lauce-au- 

ate  Monday  dur- 
coast  (so-called), 
•eiage,  6  s. ;    to 
4  8.  ;  to  Oreens- 
js.  ;  to  Exploits 
8.     At  its  most 
steamer, 
th  passage  and 
i(!  fare  at  their 
■equired  for  the 
n's  again).     The 
iddle  of  July,  in 
ould  be  prudent 
son  to  the  agents 
I  to  learn  other 
earner  from  that 
lie  agents  for  the 


e  harbor  of  St. 
IS  the  indenta- 
np;  by  the  tall 
seen  opening 


About  8  M.  beyond  Torbay,  tlio  white  slioro  of  Cape  St.  Francis  U  seen 
on  tlio  port  bow,  and,  if  the  water  is  rou|2;l),  the  great  breakers  may  be 
seen  whitening  over  the  rocks  which  are  callefl  the  Unnulicr,.  The  course 
is  now  Iiiid  across  the  inouth  of  (.!()iiccptio!i  Uay,  which  is  seen  extending 
to  tlie  S.  W.  for  .'50  M.  18  M.  |Voni  ('a])e  St.  Francis,  und  abont  40  .M.  from 
St.  John's,  tlio  steamer  passes  Ijctween  Bay  Verd  Ili-ad  and  Split  Point, 
and  stops  oif /^»^  Vtrd,  a  village  of  ubont  GOO  inhal)itants,  sitnatcd  on  a 
broad  and  unsheltered  bight  of  the  sea.  The  fishing-grounds  in  this  vicin- 
ity are  among  the  best  on  the  American  const,  and  attract  large  fieets  of 
boats  and  schooners.  The  attention  of  the  vlllag<;rs  is  divided  between 
farming  and  fishing,  the  latter  industry  being  by  far  the  most  Incrativo. 
Koads  lead  out  from  Bay  V^erd  S.  to  Carbonear  and  Harbor  Graco  (see 
Koute  66),  and  N.  W.  to  the  settlements  on  Trinity  Bay.  Soon  after 
leaving  Bay  Verd,  the  steamer  passes  Baccnlleu  Island,  a  high  ai.d  ridgy 
land  3i  M.  long,  and  nearly  2  M.  from  the  main.  On  its  N.  end  is  a  pow- 
erful Hashing  light,  elevated  443  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  lor  24  M. 

Although  fabot  wa.s  the  first  professional  discoverer  (if  the  term  may  bo  used)  to 
visit  and  exp.ore  the  shores  of  .N'ewfoundiand,  there  is  no  doubt  that  these  waters 
had  long  been  the  resort  of  tlie  fishing-tieets  of  the  Normans,  Uretons,  und  l{us(iueH. 
Lesirarbot  claims  tliat  they  had  fished  olf  these  shores  "  for  many  centuries,"  and 
Cabot  api)lied  the  name  "  Haccalaos''  to  the  coimtry  because  "  in  the  Fcas  there- 
about he  found  so  great  nniltitudes  of  cert  dn  biggo  fishes,  nnicii  like  unto  Tunnies 
(which  the  inhabitants  call  BarraUws)^  thit  they  sometimes  sta>ed  his  shiiipes." 
Haccalaos  is  the  ancient  Basque  name  for  codfish,  and  its  extensive  use  by  the 
natives  in  plai  e  of  their  own  word  Aiiei:;e,  meaning  tin;  same  thing,  is  held  a.s  con- 
clusive proof  that  they  had  been  nmcli  iti  connnunication  with  IJasque  fishermen 
before  the  arrival  of  Tabot.  Cabot  gave  this  name  to  tlie  continent  as  far  as  he 
explored  it,  but  in  the  map  of  1G40  it  is  applied  only  to  the  islet  which  now  re- 
tains it. 

On  her  alternate  trips  the  vessel  rounds  in  al)out  Grates  Point,  and  stops 
at  Old  Perlican  {SCO  Route  oT).  Otherwise,  it  runs  across  the  mouth  of 
Trinity  Bay  for  about  20  M.,  on  a  N.  W.  course,  and  enters  the  harbor  of 
Trinity,  115  M.  from  St.  John's.  The  entrance  is  bold  and  imposing,  and 
the  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  island,  atfordmg  a  livnd-locked  anchor- 
age for  the  largest  fleets.  It  is  divided  into  two  arms  by  a  high  rocky 
peninsula  (380  ft.  high),  on  whose  S.  side  are  the  wharves  and  honses  of 
the  town.  Trinity  has  about  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  a  port  of  entry  and 
the  capital  of  the  district  of  Trinity.  Considerable  fanning  is  done  in  the 
coves  near  the  head  of  the  harl)or.  Roads  lead  out  to  the  S.  shore  (see 
Koute  57),  and  also  to  Salmon  Cove,  5  i\I  ;  English  Harbor,  7;  Ragged 
Harbor,  16;  and  Catalina,  20. 

On  leaving  Trinity  Harbor,  the  course  is  S.  E  until  Green  Bay  Head 
and  the  Horse  Chops  are  passed,  when  it  turns  to  the  N.  E.,  and  runs  along 
within  sight  of  a  high  and  cliffy  shore.  Beyoml  the  Ragged  Isles  is  seen 
Green  Island,  where  there  is  a  fiy.ed  white  light,  visible  for  15  M.,  around 
which  (through  rough  water  if  the  wind  is  E.)  the  vessel  passes,  threading 
a  labyrinth  of  shoals  and  rocks,  and  enters  the  harbor  of  Catalina,  re- 
9* 


Hi 


4' 


il 

i 


202      Rmite  55. 


BONAVISTA. 


■% 


t'l 


I 


il- 


1*' 
t 


morkublo  for  Its  HuMcn  nnd  fipqupnt  Intertnittpnt  tides.  The  town  of 
Cutiiliim  liiiH  1,.']()0  iiiliabitiintH,  with  'i  cliurclu''*,  of  which  that  of  the  Kpis- 
C()|»:ili:iiis  is  u  liiit^  piece  of  iircliitectine,  thoii^rli  hiiiit  of  wood.  Tlu?  inaln 
piirtof  tiio  settlement  is  on  the  \V.  sid*^  of  tlie  liarhor,  and  has  a  coiisider- 
nblo  inaritinu)  trade.  Tlie  adjacent  waters  abound  in  salmon,  and  deli- 
cioiiH  cdibjo  whelks  aro  found  on  the  rocks.  Besides  tlie  liiphway  to 
Trinity  (20  M.),  a  rup^ed  road  leads  N.  to  Bona  vista  in  10  M.  Cataliim 
was  visited  in  1");J4  by  Cartier,  who  named  it  ^S7.  Oiflienne. 

On  k'iivinj;  Catalina  Harbor,  North  Head  is  jiassed,  and  after  running 
N.  E.  by  N.  3  M.  Flowers  Head  is  h;ft  on  the  port  bow.  About  2  M.  be- 
yond, tlio  Bird  Islets  aro  seen  on  the  1.,  near  wliich  is  the  fi^hinfj-settlement 
oi  Bird  Island  Cove  (670  itdiabitants),  with  its  lonjr  and  handsome  beach. 
A  short  distance  inland  is  seen  the  Burnt  Hidjre,  »  line  of  dark  bleak  hills 
rising  to  a  heiijht  of  500  ft  The  Dollarman  Bank,  famous  for  codfish,  is 
now  crossed,  and  on  the  1.  is  seen  (^ape  Ltn-gent  and  Spiller  I'oint,  oil"  which 
aro  the  precipitous  and  tower-like  *  Sjjiller  liocka,  surrounrled  by  the  sea. 
The  steamer  now  passes  Cape  Bouavista,  on  which  is  a  red-and-white 
flashing-1  gilt,  150  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  15  M. 

The  ri'-tUscov(Ty  of  NowfoniKlliind  (after  the  Nnrthiiien's  voynpos  f)  ocnturios  he- 
fore)  wiis  cirectcd  in  .luiif,  14!>7,  In  Caliot,  a  VciR'tian  in  tin-  st-rvici'  of  Henry 
VII.  of  I'iiinland,  sailinj;  in  tlie  ship  Matihnv,  of  Hristol  He  jrave  the  name  oi  liona 
Vistn  ("  Fair  View  "),  or  Pri»i(t  Vista  ("  Kir-t  View  "),  to  the  first  point  of  ttie  const 
wliieh  he  saw,  anil  tliat  name  lias  since  Ix'cn  attached  to  tliis  northerly  cape,  since 
it  is  lieiieved  tiiat  tiiis  was  tlie  location  (.f  the  new-found  shore.  (The  reader  of  Hid- 
dl<''s  "  iMenioirs  of  Sebastian  Oahot '"  will,  however,  be  much  ))uzzled  to  know  what 
point,  if  any,  Cabot  actually  saw  on  these  (  oa^ts.)  The  rocks  uud  shoals  to  the  N. 
ure  prolific  in  fisli,  and  ure  visi.ed  by  great  flotillas  of  boats. 

After  roundinj;  the  li<rlit,  the  steamer  enters  Bontivista  Bay,  a  f^reat 
bight  of  the  sea  extending  between  Capes  Bonuvista  and  Fieels,  a  dis- 
tance of  o7  M.  About  4  M.  S.  W.  of  the  cape,  the  ■>tiamer  enters  the  liar- 
bor  of  Bonavista,  an  ancient  miirine  town  with  3,500  Inhabitants  and  3 
churches.  It  is  the  capital  '>f  the  (iistrict  of  the  same  name,  and  i-  also  a 
port  of  entry,  having  a  hirge  f.jul  increasing  commerce.  The  harbor  is 
not  secure,  and  during  long  X.  W.  gales  the  sea  breaks  heavily  acrosa  the 
entrance.  'I'he  Episcopal  cluirch  is  a  fine  building  in  English  Gothic 
architecture,  but  the  houses  o(  the  town  are  generally  mean  and  small. 
Considerable  farm  ng  is  done  on  the  comparatively  fertile  lands  in  the 
vicinity,  and  it  is  claimed  that  the  climate  is  much  more  genial  and  the 
air  more  clear  than  on  the  S.  shores  of  the  island.  The  town  is  146  M. 
from  St  John's,  and  is  30  M  by  road  from  Trinity  and  10  M.  from  Catalina. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  settlements  on  the  coast,  and  signalized  itself 
in  1696  by  beating  oil'  the  French  fleet  which  hud  captured  St.  John's  and 
ravaged  the  S.  coa.sts. 


BONAVISTA  BAY. 


HouU  55.      203 


liC!  town  of 
of  the  Kpis- 

,    Tlic  main 
H  consider- 

)n,  and  dcli- 
liif^liwnv  to 

^I.     Cataliim 

ftor  nuininp 
.lit  2  M.  be- 
i<r-settl('iiK'iit 
some  lieiicli. 
k  l)le!ik  hills 
)r  codfjsli,  is 
int,()tl"  wliich 
I  by  the  sea. 
t'd-aud-wliite 

)  conturios  be- 
•vi(('  of  Henry 
'  iiaiiif  (if  liona 
iiit  of  the  const 
L'l'ly  ('i(i)i',  since 
>  rciulcr  of  HiJ- 
l  to  know  what 
hoals  to  tlie  N. 

Ray,  n  preat 

reels,  a  dis- 

iters  the  har- 

)itaiits  and  3 

and  is  also  a 

he  harbor  is 

ly  acrosa  the 

crlish  Gothic 

In  and  small. 

lands  in  the 

nial  and  the 

\vn  is  146  M. 

cm  Catalina. 

lalized  itself 

John'B  and 


lionminta  Bay. 


A  rofid  IpmIh  S.  W   from  Bgtevi'^ta  to  Hirrhv  roTi».  9  M. ;  Atnhornt  Core,  12; 

.'.  OT;  Ti  " 

anil  I  lull. in  Ann,  t>'S. 


Kind's  Cove, 'Jit ;   Ki-cIm   t'ovf, 


ricklo  Covf,  33;  Oj)fu  Hole,  3i ;  IMate  Cove,  38  ; 


Kiii^'x  Cove  \n  u  vill(in<«  of  Ijalirador  fl-^hcrnn-n,  with  r)"(<>  intialiitantM  and  2 
rhurcln's.  It  is  on  a  miiiow  liarlmr  ln'twrcii  tin-  lolty  clill's  of  tin-  rousl:  ran>{i>, 
tliroiijtii  whose  i»as>'('s  a  road  nnis  S  to  Trinity  in  \',\  M.  .'{  M.  from  Kin^^'.•^  Cove  i.<4 
liniuil  Ciiir  villaj?«',  nmii'r  th«!  sliadow  of  the  |«';ik  of  Southern  Mead.  K'rI.s  in  (] 
M.  from  Kinn'-i  Cove,  and  ilocs  a  considrralile  Inniher  t)UsincsM.  Tlicnrc  the  road 
(Icsci'Tids  tlirou^,'h  Tickle  Oov«!  (2  M.  from  flic  iiictinc-cpu'  Red  Cliir  Inland)  to  tho 
fliicc  villaKcH  on  the  S  ,  each  of  which  has  2-  .'{tMI  inhaltitantH  To  the  \\  .  arc  tho 
deep  estuaries  of  Sweet  llarlior,  ('lode  Sound  ('JO  M.  lonj;),  and  Newman  Sound  (11 
M.  lonjf),  penetrating  th<(  hill-country  and  exhihitin>;  a  siiccession  of  views  of  rn- 
manflc  scenery  and  total  desolation.  Ildats  may  he  taken  from  Open  Hole  to  l>iir- 
riiiv  Ifiirhor,  a  flsldiiK  settlement  1(»  >1.  N.  \V.,  at  the  month  of  Newman  Sound,  and 
to  Salrtiiif,  It}  M  distant,  a  village  of  otH)  inhaldtants.  (5  M.  N.  \V'.,  heyond  the  Hiiy 
of  Fair  and  False*,  is  lilimi/i/  lidi/,  a  deep  and  narrow  inlet  with  jiieturesfjiio  forest 
scenery,  extendini?  for  several  miles  anions;  the  hills.  The  name  was  ^iven  on  ac- 
count of  the  fre{juent  contlicts  which  here  ensued  tietween  tin-  Reil  Indians  and  tiio 
fisliennen.  At  the  head  of  the  hay  is  the  Terra  Nova  Kiver,  descending  from  tho 
Tiira  Nitva  Ltikf,  which  is  1')  M.  distant,  and  is  I'J  M.  long. 

The  \.  shore  of  itonavista  Hay  is  vi>iteil  most  easily  from  tlie  port  of  GreenX' 
finii'l  The  coinnuinlcaticin  is  exclusively  hy  hoats,  which  may  h«'  engage(|  at  tho 
village.  Nearly  all  the  islands  in  the  vicinity  and  for  lo  .M.  to  the  S  U  .  atid  S.  are 
occupied  hy  small  conununities  of  hardy  fishermen,  and  tho  shores  of  thi;  main- 
latnl  ari>  inilented  with  deep  and  narrow  hays  and  stiunds.  To  the  N.  art;  I'ooI'h 
Island,  3  M.  ;  I'iiu-her's  Island,  ',» ;  Cohhler's  island,  lU ;  and  Middle  Mill  Cove  (near 
Cape  Freels),  l;j.  To  the  S.  and  W.  are  the  Fair  Island,  7  M.  ;  Deer  Island,  11  ; 
Cottel's  Island  (three  settlements),  1') ;  the  (Jooselierry  Isles,  12;  and  Hare  Hay,  'J3. 
The  last-named  place  is  at  the  entrance  (if  Fnshiviiter  Ilii/,  which  runs  in  for  ahout 
1.")  M.,  with  deep  wat-r  and  hold  shores.  The  great  nortliern  mail-roal  is  heing 
linilt  idong  the  head  fif  this  bay  ;  a  whort  distance  from  which  (by  the  ri-  r)  are  tho 
Uu))ibn  P(>H//5,  laig(!  lukes  in  'lie  u- -olate  interior, 'J3  .M  long,  abounding  in  fish. 
One  of  the  best  salmoQ-fi-l  .>  nes  on  the  island  is  at  the  liuad  of  Indian  Bay,  12  M. 
W.  of  Oreeuspoud. 


On  leaving  Bonavjstn,  the  steamer  rnns  N.  by  VV.  across  Bonavista  Bay, 
passing  the  GooselK-rry  Isles  on  the  port  bow.  After  over  3  hours'  nm, 
the  N.  shore  is  approached,  and  the  harbor  of  Greenspond  is  entered. 
This  town  contains  over  1,000  inhabitants,  and  i^  situated  on  an  island 
1  M.  square,  so  rugged  that  soil  for  house-gardens  had  to  be  brought  from 
the  niaiidand.  A  large  Imsiness  is  done  here  in  thf  ii>lieries  and  the  seal- 
trade,  and  most  of  the  inhabitants  are  connected  with  either  the  one  or  the 
other.  The  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  difficult,  and  is  marked  by  u  fixed 
red  light,  visible  for  12  M. 

The  steamer  now  runs  N.  ¥..  and  N.  for  about  18  M.  to  Cape  Freels, 
parsing  great  numbers  of  islands,  some  of  which  are  inhabited  by  fislier- 
tne  ,  while  others  are  the  resort  of  myriads  of  sea-birds,  which  are  seen 
hovering  over  the  rocks  in  great  flocks.  Soon  tifter  passing  the  arid  high- 
lands of  Cape  Freels,  the  course  is  laid  to  the  N.  \V.  across  the  opening  of 
Sir  Charles  Hamilton's  Sound,  a  broad  and  deep  arm  of  the  sea  which  is 
studdetl  with  many  islands.  Leaving  the  Cape  liidge  and  Windmill  Hill 
astern,  the  Tenguin  Islands  are  seen,  15,^  M.  from  Cape  Freels;  and  G  M. 
further  N.  W.  the  Wadham  Isles  are  passed,  where,  on  a  lonely  and  surf- 


:■} 


I     \ 


■H 

-^ 

.'■. 

1 

^' 

i"   '■ 

'.' 

«l' 

• 

V.;, 

i\- ' 

H 

fc' 

'">;  .  ■■■■'. 


wm 


!i'l^ 


204      Route  55. 


FOGO. 


'i       !'• 


!Hi-! 


beuten  rock,  is  the  Offer  Wadham  llf];hthon<!e,  a  circular  brick  tower  100 
ft.  high,  exlin)iting  a  fixed  white  Ught,  wliicl||is  visible  for  12  M.  To  the 
N.  K.,  and  well  out  at  sea,  is  Funk  Jdmul^  near  which  are  good  sealing- 
grounds. 

B'unk  Island  was  visited  by  Cnrtior  in  \')Z\.  who  named  it  (and  the  adjacent  rocks) 
Les  Is/es  (hs  Oi/stniij-.  Here  lie  saw  a  wliitc  hear  "  as  larj^c  as  a  cow,"  which  had 
BWiini  14  lca;riU'S  troni  Newfoundland.  "  lit-  then  coasted  along  all  the  northern 
part  of  that  great  island,  and  he  says  tliat  you  meet  nowlure  else  hetter  i)orts  or  u 
more  wretched  country  ;  on  every  side  it  is  nothing  but  frightful  rocks,  sterile  lands 
covered  with  a  scanty  moss ;  no  trees,  but  only  some  bushes  half  dried  up ;  that 
nevertheless  he  found  men  there  well  made,  who  wore  their  hfiir  tied  on  the  top  of 
the  head."  The  isles  were  again  visited  by  ('artier  in  duly,  lij{3o,  in  the  ship  Grand 
Hennine.  "  If  the  soyle  were  as  good  as  the  harboroughes  are,  it  were  a  great  com- 
moditie  ;  but  it  is  not  to  be  called  the  new  found  land,  but  rather  stones  and  craggcs 

and  a  place  fit  for  wildc  beastes In  short,  I  believe  this  was  the  land  allotted 

to  Caine."'  Such  was  the  unfavorable  description  given  by  Jaqucs  Cartier  of  the 
land  between  Ca))e  Konavista  and  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

It  is  supposed  that  either  the  IJaccalieu  or  the  Penguin  Islands  were  the  "  Feather 
Islands, ■■  which  the  AniKths  SLal/ioltiiii  and  Li ginnnn's  state  were  discovered  by 
the  Northmen  in  the  year  1*285  The  Saga  of  Eric  the  Red  tells  that  Leif,  son  of  the 
Earl  of  Norway,  visiteii  the  Labrador  and  Newfoundland  shores  in  994.  "Then 
sailed  they  to  the  land,  and  cast,  anchor,  and  put  off  boats,  and  went  ashore,  and 
saw  there  no  grass,  (ireat  icebergs  were  over  all  up  the  country,  but  like  a  plain  of 
Hat  stones  was  all  from  the  sea  to  the  mountains,  and  it  appeared  to  them  that  this 
land  had  no  good  cjualitics."  Leif  named  this  country  Ilelluland  (from  Helln,a  Hat 
ptone),  distinguishing  Labrador  as  Hflliilnnif  it  Mikla.  In  128S  King  Eric  .sent  the 
mariner  Uolf  to  Iceland  to  call  out  men  for  a  voyage  to  these  shores  ;  and  the  name 
Ni/j'a  Land,  or  Nypi  Finn/if  Lniiri,  was  then  applied  to  the  great  island  to  the  S., 
and  was  probably  adopted  by  the  PJnglish  (in  the  Anglicized  form  of  Nriv/niin'llnnd) 
during  the  commercial  intercourse  between  England  and  Iceland  in  the  15th  cen- 
tury. 

9.^  M.  N.  W.  by  X.,  Cnpe  For/o  is  approtu'hod,  and  is  a  bold  promontory 
214  ft.  high,  terminating  Fogo  Island  on  the  S.  E.  Tlie  course  continues 
to  the  N.  W.  olf  the  rugged  shores  of  the  island,  and  at  6.^  JI.  from  Cape 
Fogo,  Rouiul  Head  is  passed,  and  the  steamer  assumes  a  course  more  to 
the  westward.  6-8  M.  from  Round  Head  she  enters  the  harbor  of  Fogo, 
a  port  of  entry  and  post-town  216  M.  from  St.  John's.  The  population  is 
740,  with  2  churches;  and  the  town  is  of  great  local  importance,  being  the 
depot  of  supi)lies  for  the  fishing-stations  of  the  N.  shore.  (See  also  Koute 
58  for  tills  and  other  ports  in  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame.) 

"The  western  headlands  of  Fogo  arc  exceedingly  attractive,  lofty,  finely  broken, 

of  a  red  and  purplish  brown,  tinted  here  and  there  with  jjale  green As  we  pass 

the  bold  promi'icnces  and  deep,  narrow  bays  or  fiords,  they  are  continually  changing 
and  surprising  us  with  a  new  scenery.  And  now  the  great  sea-wall,  on  our  right, 
opens  and  eiscloses  the  harbor  and  village  of  Fogo,  the  cl'.'"f  ])lace  of  the  island, 
gieamii  in  the  setting  sun  as  if  there  were  llanies  shining  through  the  windows. 
]jOokin^  .0  the  left,  all  the  western  region  is  one  fine  yEgean,  a  sea  filled  with  a  mul- 
titude of  isles,  of  manifold  forms  and  sizes,  and  of  every  height,  from  mountain  })yra- 
nuds  and  cre>;tcd  ridges  down  to  romided  knolls  and  tables,  rocky  ruins  sjjlit  and 
shattereel,  giant  slabs  sliding  edgewise  into  the  deej),  columns  and  grotesque  masses 
ruffled  with  curling  surf,  —  the  t'yclades  of  the  west.  I  climb  the  shrouds,  and  be- 
hold fields  and  lanes  of  water,  an  endless  ami  beautiful  network,  a  little  Switzerland 
with  her  vales  and  gorges  filled  with  the  purple  sea."     (Noble.) 

In  passing  out  of  Fogo  Harbor,  the  bold  bluff  of  Fogo  Head  (.345,  ft.  high) 
is  seen  on  the  1.,  back  of  which  is  Brimstone  Head.     The  vessel  steams 


TWILLINGATE. 


Route  55,      205 


ic  tower  100 
M.  To  the 
ood  sealing- 


Ijaccnt,  rocks) 
,■■  whirh  hud 
tlu-  northern 
tiT  ports  or  u 
s, sterile  lands 
Iried  up ;  that 
on  the  top  of 
ho  ship  Grand 
•0  a  great  com- 
ics and  cragRca 
J  land  allotted 
Cartier  of  the 

c  the  "Feather 
discovered  by 
Leif,son  of  the 
n  99-1.     "  Then 
nt  ashore,  and 
t  like  a  plain  of 
them  that  this 
•oni  iW/a,ali:it 
g  Eric  sent  the 
;  and  the  name 
■land  to  the  S., 
Nfu-foiin'llnntl) 
in  the  15th  ceu- 


promontory 

se  continues 

,  from  Cape 

:)urse  more  to 

bor  of  Fogo, 

:)opiUation  is 

ice,  being  the 

ee  also  Route 


',  finely  broken, 

...  As  we  pass 

mally  changing 

l,on  our  right, 

e  of  the  island, 

th  the  windows. 

lied  with  a  niul- 

niouutaiu  pjra- 

ruins  split  and 

•otesqne  masses 

lu'ouds,  and  be- 

Ittlo  Switzerland 


ll(345.  ft.  high-) 
Ivessel  steams 


in  to  the  W.,  up  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame,  soon  passing  Fogo  Head,  and 
opening  the  Cliange  Island  Ticltles  on  the  S.  Change  Island  is  tlien  seen 
on  the  1.,  and  the  course  is  laid  across  to  the  lofty  and  arid  hills  of  Bacca- 
lieu  Island.  At  22  M.  from  Fogo  the  steamer  enters  the  harbor  of  Twil- 
lingate  (the  Anglicized  form  of  Toulimjuet^  the  ancient  French  name  of 
the  ])ort).  The  town  of  Twillingate  is  the  capital  of  the  district  of  Twil- 
lingate  and  Fogo,  the  most  northerly  jjoliticnl  and  legal  division  of  New- 
foundland, and  has  a  population  of  3,700,  with  6  churches.  It  is  situated 
on  two  islands,  and  the  sections  are  connected  by  a  bridge.  Farming  is 
carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent  in  the  vicinity,  but  with  varying  suc- 
cess, owing  to  the  short  and  luicertain  summers.  The  houses  in  the  town 
are  (as  usually  in  the  coast  settlements)  very  inferior  in  appearance, 
snugness  and  warmth  being  the  chief  objects  sought  after  in  their  archi- 
tecture. 

The  finest  breed  of  Newfoundland  dogs  were  formerly  found  about  the  Twillingate 
Isles,  and  were  generally  distinguisiiod  by  their  deep  black  color,  with  a  white  cross 
on  the  breast.  They  were  smaller  than  the  so-called  Newfoundland  dogs  of  America 
and  Britain  ;  were  almost  amphibious  ;  and  lived  on  fish,  salted,  fresh,  or  decayed. 
Like  the  great  mahogany-colored  dogs  of  Labrador,  these  aniira,ls  were  distinguished 
for  rare  intelligence  and  unbounded  alTection  (especially  for  children) :  and  were 
exempt  from  hydrophobia.  A  Newfoundland  dog  of  pure  blood  is  now  worth  from 
Ig  75  to  S 100. 

The  steamer  passes  out  of  Twillingate  Harbor  and  runs  by  Gull  Island. 
The  course  is  to  the  S.  W.,  o(T  the  rugged  shores  of  the  Black  Islets,  and 
the  N.  promontory  of  the  great  New  World  Island,  14  M.  from  Twillingate 
she  reaches  the  post-town  of  Exploits  Island,  a  place  of  530  inhabitants, 
with  a  large  fleet  of  fishing-boats.     (See  also  Route  58.) 

From  Exploits  Islimd  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame  is  crossed,  and  the  harbor 
of  Tilt  Cove  is  enteied.  This  village  has  770  inhabitants,  and  is  prettily 
situated  on  the  border  of  a  picturesque  lake.  The  vicinity  is  famous  for 
its  copper-mines,  which  were  discovere  1  in  1857  and  opened  in  1865.  Be- 
tween 18tJ5  and  1870,  45,000  tons  of  ore,  valued  at  $1,180,810,  were 
extracted  and  shipped  away.  It  is  found  in  pockets  or  bunches  3-4  ft. 
thick,  scattered  through  the  heart  of  the  hills,  and  is  secured  by  level  tun- 
nels several  thousand  feet  long,  connected  with  three  perpendicular  main 
shafts,  216  ft.  deep.  There  is  also  a  valuable  nickel-mine  here,  with  a  lode 
10  inches  thick,  worked  by  costly  machinery,  and  producing  ore  worth 
S332  a  ton.  A  superior  quality  of  marble  is  found  in  the  vicinity,  but  is 
too  far  from  a  market  to  make  it  worth  while  to  quarry.  The  male  inhab- 
itants of  Tilt  Cove  are  all  miners. 

The  next  stopping-place  is  at  Nipper's  IFarbor,  a  small  fishing-village 
10  M.  S.  W.  of  Tilt  Cove.  The  harbor  is  the  best  on  the  N.  shore  of  the 
Bay  of  Notre  Dame,  and  lies  between  the  Nipper' "^  Isles  and  the  mainland. 
On  alternate  trips  the  mail-steamer  calls  also  at  Little  Bay  Island^  6-8  M. 
S.  of  Nipper's  harbor. 


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206      Route  56. 


CONCEPTION  BAY. 


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The  great  copper-mines  of  this  region  now  employ  thousands  of  miners, 
and  produce  vast  quantities  of  rich  ore.  Tlic  new  railway  from  St.  John's 
is  lu'ading  toward  the  N.  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame,  to  reach  the 
mines.  Thoy  are  owned  in  London,  and  much  of  the  ore  is  shipped  to 
Wales,  to  be  suk  Ited.  Since  the  year  1880,  these  remote  shores  have 
received  great  accessions  of  population;  a  telegraph  line  has  beer, 
built  along  the  coast  to  St.  John's ;  and  new  roads  begin  to  reach  in- 
land, including  the  great  highway  across  the  island,  to  Indian  Pond, 
Grand  Lake,  and  the  Bay  of  Ishinds,  surveyed  in  1878,  in  which  year 
Governor  Sir  John  Glover  and  the  Rev.  M,  Harvey  crossed  the  island  on 
this  line,  in  canoes,  finding  imtnense  areas  of  arable  and  grazing  land, 
deposits  of  coal  and  other  minerals,  etc. 

The  Hercules  connects  with  the  Northern  Coastal  steamer  at  its  last 
port,  and  goes  on  to  Labrador  (see  pages  223  to  229). 

56.  St.  John's  to  Conception  Bay. 

Railway  Stations.  St.  .Tohn's  to  Topsail,  16  M, ;  Manuels,  18  ;  KcUlKrews 
22;  Seal  Cove.  27  ;  Holyrood.  33;  Hurbor  Main,  3G;  Salmon  Cove,  3;» ;  IJrifius 
.)iinction,  47A  ;  lliirlior  Grace  .Junction,  57i  ;  Uroad  Cove,  66^  ;  New  Harbor  Uoad, 
74  ;  Tilton,  7'!l ;  Harbor  iJrace,  84  :  (.arbonmr,  92. 

St.  .John  to  Harbor  Grace  .Junction,  57^  M   ;  Placentia,  84. 

A  small  steamboat  plie.s  up  and  down  the  bay  at  certain  seasons. 

There  is  also  a  road  extending  around  ('onception  Bay.  It  is  20  M.  from  St. 
Jolin's  to  Topsail,  by  way  ot  I'ortujjjal  Cove,  pa.s.sing  Beacliy,  Broad,  and  Hor.-^e 
Coves?  The  more  direct  i-oute  jead.n  directly  across  the  N.  part  of  Avalon  from  St. 
John's  to  Topsail.  The  cliief  villap;es  and  the  distances  on  this  road  are  as  follows  : 
St.  John's  to  Topsail,  VI  M.  ;  Killip;rews,  18;  Holyrood,  28;  Chajiel's  Cove,  33; 
Harbor  Main,  84,^  :  Salmon  Cove,  37  ;  Colliers,  40  ;  Brijius,  4<) ;  Port  do  Grave,  51  ; 
Spaniard's  Bay,  50;  Harbor  Grfice,  63;  Carbonear,  07.^;  Salmon  Cove,  72 ;  Spout 
Cove,  7()i  ;  Western  Bay,  82;  Northern  Bay,  87;  Island  Cove,  93j ;  Caplin  Cove, 
97  ;  Bay  Verd,  105. 

The  stage-road,  after  leaving  St.  John's,  traverses  a  singular  farming 
country  for  sevenil  miles,  and  then  enters  a  rugged  region  of  hills.  Portu- 
gal Cove  is  soon  reached,  and  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  ledges  near 
the  foot  of  a  range  of  higl;Innds.  It  contains  over  700  inliabitants,  with 
2  churches,  and  has  a  few  small  farms  adjacent  (see  page  195). 

Gaspar  Cortereal  explored  this  coast  in  the  year  1500,  and  named  Conception 
Bay.  He  carried  home  sncii  a  favoniV/le  account  that  a  Portugne.«e  colony  was  es- 
tablished at  the  Cove,  and  50  ships  wore  sent  out  to  the  fisheries.  In  1578,  400  sail 
of  vessels  were  seen  in  the  bay  at  one  time,  prosecuting  the  fisheries  under  all  flags. 
The  cdlony  was  broken  up  by  the  English  fleet  under  Sir  Francis  Drake,  who  also 
drove  the  French  and  Portuguese  fishermen  from  the  coast. 

BeUe  Isle  lies  off  shore  3  M.  from  the  Cove,  whence  it  may  be  visiti'd  by  fcrry- 
'wats  (also  from  Topsail).  This  interesting  island  is  9  M.  long  and  3  .M.  wide,  and 
iS  traversed  by  a  line  of  bold  hills.  It  is  famous  for  the  ricliness  of  its  deep  black 
soil,  and  produces  wlieat,  oats,  potatoes,  and  liay,  with  the  best  of  butter.  The 
lower  Silurian  geological  formation  is  here  finely  displayed  in  long  parallel  strata, 
amid  which  iron  ore  is  found.  The  clitfs  which  front  on  the  shore  are  very  bold, 
and  sometimes  overhang  the  water  or  else  arc  cut  into  strange  and  fantastic  shapes 
by  the  action  of  the  sea.  Two  or  three  brilliant  little  waterfalls  are  se.?n  leaping 
from  the  upper  levels.  Belle  Isle  has  600  inhabitants,  located  in  two  villages,  Lauce 
Cove,  at  the  W.  end,  and  the  Beach,  on  the  S. 


HARBOR  GRACE. 


Route  56.      207 


of  miners, 
1  St.  John's 
)  reach  the 
shipfK'd  to 
hores  have 
has   bt-er. 
o  reach  in- 
clian  Pond, 
which  year 
le  ishind  on 
■azing  land, 

r  at  its  last 


3;   Kcllip;rew« 

.,  8;t;    Urigus 

Harbor  Uoad, 


20  M.  from  St. 
>u(l.  and  Horse 


alon  from  St. 
are  as  follows : 

Ts  ('ovc,  33 ; 

do  Oruve,  51  ; 
ove, 72 :  Spout 

Ciipliu  Cove, 


;;ul;\r  farming 

lills.  Portu- 

le  ledges  near 

ibitaiits,  with 

led  Conception 

colony  was  es- 
1578.  400  sail 
uiulor  all  ttiigs- 
)rako,  who  also 

'i?iU-d  by  fcrry- 
3  M.  wide,  and 

its  deep  black 
If  butter.  The 
Iparallel  strata, 

are  very  bold, 
fantastic  shapes 
Ve  seen  leaping 
1  villages,  Lauce 


The  steamer  runs  out  to  the  S.  W.  between  Belle  Isle  and  the  bold 
heifjhts  about  Portugal  C'ove  and  Broad  Cove,  and  passes  up  Conception 
Bay  Tor  18  M.,  witli  tlie  lofty  Blue  Mills  on  the  S.  It  then  enters  the  nar- 
row iiarbor  of  Brigus  {SuUimn's  Ilutd),  a  port  of  entry  and  the  capital 
of  the  district  of  Brigus.  It  has  2,500  inhabitants,  with  Wesleyan,  Roman, 
and  Anglican  churches,  and  a  convent  of  the  Order  of  Mercy.  The  town 
is  built  on  the  shores  of  a  small  lake  between  two  rugged  hills,  and  pre- 
sents a  picturesque  apj)earance.  It  has  over  800  boats  engaged  in  the 
cod-fishery,  and  about  30  larger  vessels  in  trading  and  fishing.  There  are 
a  few  farms  in  the  vicinity,  producing  fair  crops  in  return  for  great 
labor.  The  best  of  these  are  on  the  bright  meadows  near  Clark's  Beach, 
4  M.  from  the  town;  and  several  prosj)erous  villages  are  found  in  the 
vicinity.  Near  the  town  is  the  singular  double  peak  called  ti-e  Twins, 
and  a  short  distance  S.  W.  ia  the  sharp  and  conical  Thumb  Peak  (598  ft. 
high). 

The  steamer  passes  out  from  the  rock-bound  harbor  and  runs  N.  by  the 
bold  lull  of  Brigus  Lookout  (400  ft.  high).  Beyond  Burnt  Head,  Bay  de 
Grave  is  ^^c■'  ■  ning  on  the  1.,  with  several  hamlets,  aggregating  2,600  in- 
habitants. <  ils  luid  Bareneed  are  tiie  chief  of  these  villages,  the  latter 
beiuTjon  the  narrow  neck  of  land  between  Bayde  Grave  and  Bay  Roberts, 
21^  M.  from  Blow-me-down  Head.  Green  Point  is  now  rounded,  and  the 
course  is  laid  S.  W.  up  Bay  Roberts,  passing  Coldeast  Point  on  the  port 
bow  and  stopping  at  the  vilhige  of  Bay  Roberts  {Moure's  Ilotd).  Tliis 
place  consists  of  one  long  street,  with  2  churches  and  several  wliarves, 
and  has  2,800  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  spend  the  summer  on  the  Lab- 
rador coast. 

Passing  out  from  Bay  Roberts,  Mad  Point  is  soon  left  abeam,  and  Spari' 
iard's  Bay  is  seen  on  the  l,  entering  the  land  for  3^  M.,  and  dotted  with 
fishing-establishments.  Tiie  bay  is  surrounded  by  a  line  of  high  hills, 
on  whose  promontories  are  two  or  three  chapels.  The  hamlet  and  church 
of  Bryant's  Cove  are  next  seen,  in  a  narrow  glen  at  the  base  of  the  hills, 
and  the  steamer  passes  on  around  the  dangerous  and  surf-beaten  Harbor- 
Grace  Islands  (off  Feather  Point),  on  one  of  which  is  a  revolving  white* 
and-ved  flash  light,  151  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  18  M. 

Harbor  Grace  (two  inferior  inns)  is  the  second  city  of  Newfoundland, 
anil  is  the  cap.tal  of  the  district  of  Harbor  Grace.  It  has  7,100  iiduib- 
itants,  with  sev  in\\  churches,  a  weekly  newspaper,  and  fire  and  police 
(Ipi)artments.  '>'he  town  is  built  on  level  land,  near  the  shelter  of  the 
Point  of  Beach,  with  its  wharves  well  protected  by  a  long  sand-strip. 
The  bay  is  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  decreasing  from  li  M.  in  width  to  ^ 
M.,  and  is  insecure  except  in  the  sheltered  place  before  the  city.  Tho 
tr- le  of  this  port  is  very  large,  and  about  200  ships  enter  the  harbor 
yeurly.  There  is  a  stone  court-house  and  a  strong  prison,  and  the  Con- 
vent of  the  Presentation  is  on  the  Carbonear  road.    The  Roman  Catholic 


W 


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208      Route  57. 


CARBONEAR. 


m    ''' 


cathedral  is  the  finest  buiMinj^  in  tlie  city,  and  its  high  and  sj'mmetrical 
dome  is  r  laiKhiiurlc  for  vessels  entering  the  port.  The  interior  of  the 
cathedral  is  profusely  ornamented,  having  been  recently  enlarged  and 
newly  adorned.  Most  of  the  hou  os  in  the  city  are  mean  and  unprepos- 
sessing, being  ;  dely  constructei  of  wood,  and  out  little  improved  by 
painting. 

A  rngfijc'd  road  runs  N.  W.  15  M.  nrross  the  peninsula  to  Heart's  Cositeiit 

(see  Kouto  57).  A  road  to  the  N.  n'aclu'.s  (in  Ik  M.)  tlic  fanning  villago  of  ^ios(/iiito 
Core,  snugly  omboso.'ied  in  a  pretty  glin  near  the  cultivated  meadows.  About  the 
,>ear  ItilO  a  colony  was  planted  lion;  by  the  agents  of  that  Engli,-h  conii)an.\  in  wliich 
were  Sir  Francis  Bacon,  the  Karl  of  ^^outhaniiiton,  and  other  knights  and  nobles. 
King  .lanius  I.  granted  to  this  conii)any  all  the  coast  lietweeu  Capes  Bonavista  and 
St.  Mary,  but  their  euterprise  brought  no  pecuniary  returns. 

Carbonear  is  1^  M.  by  road  from  Mosqtiito  Cove  (3  M.  from  Harbor 
Grace),  and  is  reached  by  the  steamer  after  passing  Old  Sow  Point  and 
rounding  Carbonear  Island.  This  town  has  5,000  inhabitants,  with  3 
churches,  and  Wesjeyan  and  Catholic  schools.  Several  wharves  are  built 
out*  to  furnish  winter-quarters  for  the  vessels  and  to  accommodate  the 
large  fish-trade  of  the  place.  It  is  21  M.  by  boat  to  Portugal  Cove,  across 
Conception  Bay.  This  town  was  settled  by  the  French  early  in  the  17th 
century,  under  the  name  of  Carboniere,  but  was  soon  occupied  by  the 
British.  In  1696  it  was  one  of  the  two  Newfoundland  towns  that  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  English,  all  the  rest  having  been  captured  by 
L  ""rville's  French  fleet.  Other  marauding  French  squadrons  were  beaten 
eflf  uy  the  men  of  Carbonear  in  1705-6,  though  the  adjacent  coast  was 
devastated;  and  in  1762  Carbonear  Island  was  fortified  and  garrisoned  by 
the  citizens. 

The  mail-road  runs  N.  from  Carbonear  to  Bay  Vcrd,  passing  the  villages  of  Cro* 
ker's  Cove,  1  M.  ;  Freshwater,  2  ;  Salmon  Cove,  5  ;  Perry's  Cove,  8  ;  Broad  Cove, 
15;  Western  Bay,  17  ;  Northern  Bay,  20  ;  Job's  Cove,  25;  Island  Cove,  27;  Low 
Point,  33  ;  Bay  Verd,  38.  There  is  no  liarbor  along  this  shore,  the  "  coves  "  being 
mere  open  bights,  swept  by  sea-winds  and  aflbrding  incecure  anchorage.  The  in- 
habitants are  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  and  have  made  some  attempts  at  farming,  in 
defiance  of  the  early  and  biting  frosts  of  this  high  latitude.  Salmon  Cove  is  near 
the  black  and  frowning  cliffs  of  Salmon  Cove  Head,  and  is  famous  for  its  great  num- 
bers of  salmon.  Near  Ochre  Pit  Cove  are  beds  of  a  reddish  clay  which  is  used  for 
paint,  and  it  is  claimed  that  the  ancient  Bceothic  tribes  obtained  tlieir  name  of 
"  Red  Indians  "  from  their  custom  of  staining  themselves  with  this  clay. 

isay  Verd,  see  page  201. 

57.   Trinity  Bay. 

This  district  may  be  visited  by  taking  the  Northern  Coastal  steamer  (seeRotite  55) 
to  Bay  Verd,  Old  Perlican,  or  Trinity  ;  or  by  passing  from  St  John's  to  Harbor 
Grace  by  Route  56,  and  thence  by  tlie  road  to  Heart's  Content  (15  M.)  The  latter 
village  is  about  80  M.  from  St.  John's  by  the  road  around  Conception  Bay. 

Heart's  Content  is  situated  on  a  fine  harbor  about  half-way  rp  Trinity 
Bay,  and  has  1,200  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  -^re  engaged  in  the  Labrador 
fisheries  or  in  shipbuilding.  Th.e  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  very  .striking, 
partaking  ff  the  boldness  and  startling  contrast  which  seems  peculiar  to 
this  sea-girt  Province.     Just  back  of  the  village  is  a  small  'ake,  over 


TRINITY   BAY, 


Rude  57.      209 


■which  :  -ea  the  dark  mass  of  Mizzen  Hill,  G04  ft.  high.  Heart's  Content 
derives  its  chief  importance  and  a  world-wide  fame,  from  the  fact  tliat 
here  is  the  W.  terminns  of  the  ohl  Atlantic  telejjraph-cahle.  The  office  of 
the  company  is  near  the  Episcopal  Church,  and  is  the  only  good  building 
in  the  town. 


"  O  lonely  Hnv  of  Trinity. 
()  (Irt'ary  shores,  f.'i\<'  cur  ! 
Le'in  (liiwii  into  the  wliitc-lipped  sen, 
The  voice  of  Ood  to  hear  ! 

'*  From  world  to  wn-ld  His  ponrit'rs  tlv, 
Thonirht-winacd  nnd  shod  with  lire 
Till!  insci  of  Mis  stormy  sky 
Rides  down  the  snrkeii  wire. 

"  AVlrat  s;iiih  the  herald  of  the  Lord  ? 
'  The  world  s  loMtf  strife  is  dene  : 
Close  wedded  hy  thit  mystic  cord, 
Its  continents  are  one. 

*"  And  one  in  lieort,  us  one  in  blood, 
Sliull  ail  iier  peoples  De 
The  hands  of  human  brotherhood 
Are  clasped  beneath  the  sea.' 


"  Throb  on, strong  pnlse  of  th.inder  !  beat 
t'rom  answerini;  beiieh  to  deacli ; 
Fuse  niitions  in  tliy  kiiidlv  bent. 
And  melt  the  citains  of  each  1 

"  Willi  terror  of  the  sky  above, 
(ilide  tinned  and  dumb  below  ! 
Bearf^ently,  Ocean's  carrier-dove. 
Thy  errands  to  nnd  fro. 

"  Weave  on,  swift  shuttle  of  the  Lord, 
Hetieath  the  fleep  so  far. 
The  hridal  robe  ol  eartlis  iiecord, 
The  funeral  shroud  of  war : 

"  For  lo  '  the  fall  of  Oceons  wall 
Space  mocked  and  tioie  outrun  ; 
And  round  the  world  the  thought  of  all 
Js  MS  the  thouijlit  (d'  one.' 
John  G.  Wiiittikus  Cahle  Hijmn. 

The  road  runninj?  N.  from  Ileart't^  Content  loads  to  New  Pcrlican.  .3  M.  ;  Sillee 
Cove,  (5  M.  ;  Hants  Harbor,  12  ;  rieal  Cove,  I'J  ;  Lauce  Cove,  24  ;  Old  Perlican,  28; 
and  CJrate's  Cove,  34. 

New  Perlican  is  on  the  safe  harbor  of  the  same  name,  and  has  alicut 
420  inhaljitants,  most  of  whom  are  eu.iraged  in  the  cod-fishery  and  in  ship- 
building. A  packet-boat  runs  from  this  point  across  the  Ray  to  Trinity. 
Xear  the  village  is  a  large  table-rock  on  which  several  score  of  names  have 
been  inscribed,  some  of  them  over  cwo  centuries  old. 

Old  Perlican  V3  about  tlie  size  of  HeartVs  Content,  and  is  scattered  along 
tlio  embayed  shores  inside  of  Perlican  Island.  It  is  overlooked  by  a 
crescent-shaped  range  of  dark  and  barren  hills.  The  Xorthern  Coastal 
steamer  calls  at  this  port  once  a  month  during  the  season  of  navigation. 


The  southern  road  from  Heart's  Content  leads  to  Heart's  Desire,  6  M. ;  Hesirfa 
Doli,,'lit,  y  ;  Siioal  Hay,  14;  Witless  Hay,  lU  :  Green  Harbor,  2-3;  Hoih'A11,28;  New 
H.ir'nor,  32;  asid  Uildo  Cov",  :i5.  Tbe  viliajjes  on  this  i"oa  I  are  all  -«mall,  and  aro 
mostly  inhabited  by  tbe  toilers  of  tlie  sea.  The  country  about  Green  Harbor  and 
Hoiie  All  is  milder  and  more  pastoral  than  are  the  elilT-bouiui  I'l-gions  on  either  side. 
From  New  HiU'bor  a  road  riuis  E  by  Spaniard's  Hay  (Conception  Hay)  to  .St.  .)oIin'.«", 
ill  ()8  M.  To  the  S.  and  \V.  lie  the  {ishing-haii\lets  on  the  narrow  istlnnus  of  Avalon, 
whicli  sep:irates  IMaeentia  Hay  from  Trinity  Hay  by  a  strip  of  land  7  M.  lonjif,  joinin{» 
the  peiii.isula  of  Avalon  to  the  main  island.  The  deep  estuary  called  Bull  An)ir\vA 
up  amid  the  mountains  to  with  n  2  M.  of  the  Come-by-chance  River  of  Placenda 
ISiy,  anil  here  it  is  projjosed  to  make  a  canal  joininu;  the  tsvo  bays. 

il**avt's  Kase  is  1.')  M  from  Heart's  Content  (by  boat),  and  is  at  the  P.  entrance 
of  Uandom  Sound.  It  is  a  fishin<r-villa)re  witli  200  inhabitants  and  a  church  To 
f  le  S.  i.s  the  grind  clilf-scenery  around  St.  .lones  Harbor  and  the  lont;;  and  river- 
li'.u'  />.r  Harbor,  tilleil  witli  isi.anils,  at  whose  bead  is  Centre  Hill,  an  isolated  cone 
over  1,0(10  fr.  hiirh.  From  the  sunnuit  of  Centre  Hill  or  of  Oown  Hill  .nay  be  .^^een 
nearly  the  wholi!  extent  of  the  Placentia  and  Trinity  Hays,  ..ith  tlieir  capes  and 
inlands,  villap's  and  harbors.  ,Just  above  Ilearfs  Ease  is  Randoni  I,<l,nid,  covering 
.1  in-'ic  area,  and  separ.'iteil  from  the  main  by  tlie  deep  and  narrow  wiierconrses 
lalle  I  iltimlom  Sound  nnd  Smith's  Sound.  There  is  much  fine  .scenery  iti  the  .sounds 
and  tlicir  deep  arms,  and  .salmon-tishing  is  here  carried  on  to  a  oonsiderabh;  extent. 
There  are  immense  quantities  of  slate  ou  the  ehores,  &ome  of  which  has  been  quar- 


■Ilf 

■■t->m 


■•'"■  I'-l 


i:  <  i 


idfell 


t  ' 

<■,'■ 

'i. 

-^ 

■1^ 

'!  ■ 

;!?;. 

-■ 

■A- 

^ 

)•. 

U 

^.  ■ 

I    ■;.  -I 

;  u. 


(i? 


210      Route  r,8. 


RIVEU  OF   EXl'LOITS. 


riod  (nt  Wilton  HrnvoV  Tlio  two  snmuls  nro  an. nit  ?k)  M  lonfc,  fnrminp  three  pideB 
of  a  H<(uiir<' aroiiiid  Kandniii  Islinid,  and  liavc  a  widtli  of  froii.  .  M.  to  2  M.  "The 
Hail  \\\^  Siiiitirs  Sound  was  very  licantiliil.  It  is  a  Hiif  river-like  arm  of  the  sea,  1-2 
M.  wide,  witli  iofr\  ,  and  in  many  places  iirecipitons,  rocky  hanks,  covered  with  wood. 
....  Till'  cliaraefer  of  the  scenery  of  iCandom  Soi.nd  is  wild  and  lieantifnl,  and  cou- 
reying,  from  its  wtilluosw  und  Hilencc,  the  feeling  of  utter  solitude  and  Heclusion." 

Trinity  is  the  most  coiivcuioid  point  from  which  to  visit  tlic  N.  shore  of 
the  iJiW  (see  |)M^(>  201).  The  southern  rosid  rims  to  Trout  v,  7  M  ;  New 
U«)iiavonture,  12  M. ;  imd  Old  r.oiiiiventurc,  18  M.  Beyond  these  settle- 
ments is  the  N.  entrance  to  I{iin(him  Sound. 


68.    The  Bay  of  Notre  Dame. 

rns.«oniiers  are  landed  from  the  Northern  (^oasta)  steamer  at  Fogo,  Twillingate, 
Little  l?av  Isla  (d,  Nipper's  Harbor,  or  Tilt  Cove,  —  all  ports  ou  this  ba>  (see 
pages  204,  205). 

Fogo  is  situated  on  Fogo  Island,  which  lies  between  Sir  Charles  Ham- 
ilton's Sound  and  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame.  It  is  13  M.  long  from  E.  to  \V., 
and  ,8  M.  wide,  and  its  siiores  arc  hold  and  rugged.  There  are  10  fishing- 
villages  on  the  island,  with  nearly  2,000  inhahitants  (exclusive  of  Fogo), 
and  roads  lead  across  the  hills  from  cove  to  cove. 

It  is  9  M.  by  road  from  Fogo  to  Cape  Fogo;  7  M.  to  Shoal  Bay;  5  to  Joe  Batt's 

Arm  (400  inh.'diitants) ;  7  to  Little  .S'ldom-eoni<>-hy  ;  and  SI  to  Sddotn-came-hy,  a 
considerable  village  on  a  fine  safe  harbor,  winch  is  often  filled  with  Heets  of  schoon- 
ers and  brigs.  If  ie»!  on  the  coast  or  contrary  winds  ))revent  the  fishermen  from 
rea(dung  Labrador  in  tlie  early  summer  Imndreds  of  sail  bear  away  f\)r  this  iiarbor, 
and  wait  here  until  the  northern  voyage  is  jtraeticable.  Tliere  is  no  other  secure 
anoliorage  for  over  50  M.  down  the  coast  Tilto)i  Harbor  is  on  tin;  E  coast  of  the 
island,  and  is  a  Catholic  village  of  about  400  inhabitants.  Tlie  principal  settlements 
reached  bv  boat  from  Fogo  are  Apsev  Cove,  14  M .  :  Indian  Islands.  14;  Blackhead 
Cove,  14;  Rocky  Bay,  25-  Barr'd  Islands,  4:  and  Change  Islands,  8.  20  M  S.  \V. 
is  <tander  Bav,  the  outlet  of  the  great  Gcoulrr-Biiii  Ponds,  wbi<di  bathe  the  slopes  of 
the  Blue  Hills  and  the  Heart  Ridge,  a  chain  of  mountains  30  M.  long. 

From  Exploits  Island  (see  page  205)  boats  ])ass  S.  12  M.  through  a  great 
archipelago  to  the  mouth  of  the  River  of  Exploits.  This  noble  river  de- 
scends from  Rod-Indian  Pond,  about  90  M.  to  the  S.  W.,  and  has  a  strong 
current  with  frequent  rapids.  Tiie  Grand  Falls  are  145  ft.  high,  where 
the  stream  breaks  through  the  Chute-Brook  Hills.  An  Indian  trail  leads 
from  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  S.  W.  across  the  vast  barrens  of  the  in- 
terior, to  the  Bay  of  Despair,  on  the  S.  coast  of  Newfoundland.  The  River 
of  Exploits  tlows  for  the  greater  part  of  its  course  through  level  lowlands, 
covered  '-ith  evergreen  forests.  It  may  he  ascended  in  steamers  for  12 
i\I..  to  the  fir.et  rapid,  and  from  thence  to  the  Eed-indian  Pond  by  boats 
(making  frequent  portages). 

The  river  was  first  ascended  by  Lieut.  Bnrhan,  B.  N.,  in  1810, under  orders  to  find 
and  conciliate  the  Red  Indians,  who  had  lied  to  the  interior  after  being  nearly  ex- 
terndnat«'d  liy  the  whih's.  lie  met  a  party  of  tliei.i,  and  left  liostages  in  their  hands 
while  lie  carried  fome  t>f  theii"  nund>er  to  the  coast.     But  Ids  guests  decamped,  and 

)m\   ,.<if ii,'i>.i.1    ^*i1«-    i-i\   l^.^.l    fK..f    *U.^   I.^-,.-*-. ..«,..-.    l...,1    !.<.....    ^.....^.11,'    .-......'l/...^.!      <..>vl    flw^    4-..n  .. 

*.x-    ...^...ti.-.    .»iii^»      \\f    iiii\t    .mil     iliv:    I !._'.- 1    I  -j^,-.-«    iiiitl    I  M-f-ii    V   1  111  I  i>      111  i«  1  Vl.'l  «'i  I,    <tlli(     tliv     11  1"   ^ 

had  tied  to  the  nMiiote  interior.  In  1823  three  squaws  were  eaptm-ed,  taken  to  St. 
John,  loaded  with  presents,  and  re'ea.sed  :  since  which  time  no  Red  Indians  have 
been  seen,  and  it  is  uot  kuown  whetlaer  the  tribe  is  extinct,  or  has  fled  to  Labrador, 


nf?  three  cIcleB 
n'2M.  "The 
ttli('S(>n,  1-2 
•el  ssitli  wood, 
lit'iil,  1111(1  cou- 
Hi'chiKioii." 

i  N.  shore  of 
,  7  M  ;  New 
these  settle- 


;o,  Twillingftte, 
this  buy  (see 

l^harlos  Iliim- 
roni  E.  to  W., 
re  10  fishing- 
ive  of  Fogo), 

')  to  Joe  Batt'8 

lom-come-h}/.  a 

lefts  of  schoon- 

lishonnon  from 

f>.r  this  harbor, 

no  other  secure 

K  foast  of  the 

)t!il  settlenients 

14;  Rliickhead 

^.     20  1\1    S.  \V. 

le  the  sloijes  of 

rough  n  great 
loble  river  de- 
has  a  strong 
liigli,  where 
Ian  trail  leads 
!ns  of  the  in- 
id.   TheKiver 
;vel  lowlands, 
samers  for  12 
ind  by  boats 


|r  orders  to  fiiul 
Miig  nearly  ex- 

\.  in  their  hands 
decamped,  and 

|',,ivnd  the  tvU  e 

|l,  taken  to  t?t. 
Indians  have 

Id  to  Labrador, 


RED-INDr.\N   POInD. 


.Route  58.       211 


I 


or  \n  secluded  In  some  more  remote  part  of  the  interior.  They  were  very  numeroua 
at  tlie  Unie  of  the  advent  of  the  KuronrMins,  an.l  re<reived  the  new-comers  with  con- 
fidence ;  l)ut  thereafter  for  tw(»  centinies  tlu'y  were  hunted  down  lor  tiie  sake  of  the 
rich  furs  in  tiieir  |»oss«^ssion,  and  (rrailuully  retired  to  t'le  distant  inland  lakea. 

In  H27  the  IJu'otliic  Society  of  St  .If^lin's  sent  out  en  .'oys  to  thid  tlie  Red  Indians 
and  open  IViendly  intercourse  with  the  ..  Jhit  they  we.-e  unable  to  (,'et  slj;ht  of  a 
siii){le  Indian  dnriiifj  lout;  wet.ks  of  rainbliiif^  thrciij^h  vhct  interior,  and  it  is  con- 
fliided  that  the  rue  is  extinct.  On  the  shores  of  Mu-  liroad  ami  beautiful  Red-Indian 
i'oiid  Mr.  Cormack  found  several  loiif^-deserted  village's  of  wigwams,  with  cainHJH, 
mid  curiouft  aboriginal  cemeteries.  This  was  (evidently  tin;  fivoritc  seat  of  the  tribe, 
and  from  this  point  tlieir  deer-fences  wore  Heen  for  over  3U  M.  (see  also  page  218). 

Little  //(/?/ /a/^mf/ (1,600  inhabitants),  15  M  from  Tilf  Cove,  is  the  most 
<'avoral)le  point  frouj  which  to  visit  Hall's  Bay.  8  M.  S.  W.  arc  the  settle- 
ments at  the  mouth  of  Hall's  Hay,  of  which  Ward's  Harbor  is  the  chief, 
liaving  200  inhal)itants  and  a  factory  for  camiing  salmon.  There  are  valu- 
alile  salmon-fisheries  near  the  head  of  tlie  bay.  From  Ilall'.s  Hay  to  the  N. 
and  W.,  and  towards  Wliite  Bay,  are  the  favorite  summer  feeding-ground.'i 
of  the  immense  herds  of  deer  which  range,  almost  unmolested,  over  the  in- 
terior of  die  island.  The  hunting-groiuHls  are  usually  entered  from  this 
point,  and  sportsmen  should  secure  two  or  three  well-certified  Micmao 
guides. 

A  veteran  British  sportsman  has  written  of  this  region  :  **  T  know  of  no  country 
80  near  Kn^land  which  olfers  the  same  amount  (f  inducement  to  t!ic  explorer,  natu- 
ralist, or  sportsman."  It  is  to  be  lioped,  however,  that  no  future  visitors  will  imi- 
ta*'!!  the  atrocious  conduct  of  a  party  of  Londo!i  sportsme:i,  who  recently  entered 
t'.iese  huntin;?-y[round3  and  massacred  nearly  2,00()  deer  daring  the  short  season, 
leaviii}?  tl'.e  forests  filled  with  deeayinK  game.  I'r.blic  opinion  will  sustain  the  Mic- 
mtc  Indians,  who  are  dependinit  ot:  the  deer  for  their  livin-i;,  and  who  have  declared 
that  they  will  prevent  a  repetition  of  such  carnage,  or  punish  its  perpetrators  in  a 
summary  manner. 

The  Indians  and  the  half-bi-eed  liunters  frequently  cross  the  island  from  Hall's 
Bay  by  ascending  Indian  Brook  in  boats  for  aboi'.t  il  j  M.,  ir.id  then  niaki:!g  a  port- 
age to  the  chain  of  ponds  emptying  into  Grand  I'ond,  nvA  descending  by  Deer  Pond 
and  the  Ilumber  River  (skirting  the  Longllr.ige)  to  tlio  Br.y  of  I.lanJs.  Thotr'.nsit 
is  botli  arduous  and  perilous.  20  INI,  inland  are  tl'.e  i:;ou:itai.is  called  the  T/:rce 
Tnoers,  from  whose  suumiit  may  bo  seen  the  Graiid  Pond,  the  Bay  of  Exploits,  and 
the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

The  deer  migrate  lo  the  S.  W.  in  the  autumn,  and  puss  the  winter  near  St.  George's 
B.iy  and  Cape  Ray  The  Red  Indians  constructted  i  'uiy  leagues  of  fence,  from  the 
B  ly  of  Notre  Dame  to  Red-Indiin  Pond,  by  which  tney  intercepted  the  licrdsduring 
their  passage  to  the  S  ,  and  laid  in  supi)lies  of  provi  ions  for  the  Nviiiter. 

Ketl- Indian  Poml  is  about  3  J  M.  S.  W.  of  Ilah's  Bay.  It  is  40  M.  long  by 
;"<  -  ti  M  wide,  and  contains  many  inlands.  To  the  S.  liu  the  great  interior  l,.,Ut.!,  i  i 
Jill  unexplored  and  trackless  i-egion.  The  chief  of  tliese  are  Croalicr'a  Lake  (10  M, 
distant),  filled  with  islets;  Jameson's  Lake, 20  M.  long,  between  Serpentii;o  Mt.  and 
Mt.  Misery ;  Lake  Bathurst,  17  by  5  M. ;  and  George  IV.  Lake,  18  by  G  M.  15  M. 
\V  of  Red-Indian  Pond  is  Grand  Pond,  which  ii  GO  M.  long.    (See  page  218  ) 

From  Nipper's  Harbor  the  sportsman  may  pas  up  Green  Bay,  to  the  S.  \V.,  and 
enter  the  hunting-grounds  (having  first  taken  care  to  securo  trusty  guides).  On  the 
.\'.  si  le  of  the  bay  is  a  copper-mi:ie  tliafc  was  opened  in  1SG9,  and  h-^  yielded  well. 

Ill  (  Cove  is  23  M  from  II  i IPs  B:i\  ,  30  M.  from  New  Pay,  and  24  M.  frcm  Nim- 
rol.  7  M.  distant  is  Bitri/iiiu:  P.ace,  n  simill  fi  'ling-villrgc,  iienr  wliic'i  have  been 
iDiincJ  numerous  birch-l),irk  cotTnis  and  other  ri'.,;:norials  of  t'lo  Red  Indian  ■.  A  road 
runs  N.  1<]  from  Tilt  Cove,  ii:i';si;iL^  i.i  S  M.  Hamtd  Ilarbcr,  \;\Ac\\  U  pi'oiinc  i.i  cop- 
p''i' ;  and  in  4  M  S'loc  Con',  f  unous  for  troiif ,  and  the  station  of  a  govcrr.mcnfcboat 
wiie'i  here  watches  ihe  French  fi- :ici'ies.  \  road  runs  J«.  7  M.  from  Shoe  CoTe  to 
La  Scie,  ou  the  I'reuch  Shore  (see  Jloute  61). 


.  .  |.  •  ■ 

'it 

■  ■' ;  i 


ii 


■1,  ■»: 

:    VU 


^  i 


fp 

1 

*          * 

212 

Jlouie  59. 

PLACENTIA  BAY. 

t,  h 

( 

V 

hi  I 


ali:    1 


KiH 


59.    Placentia  Bay 

Is  included  between  Cape  St.  Mary  and  Cape  (.'hapeau  Rouge,  and  is  48 
M.  wide.  Placentia  is  the  c'aj)ital  of  the  eastern  shore,  and  is  a  port  of 
entry  and  post-town,  80  M.  from  St.  John's  by  road.  It  is  built  along  a 
level  strand,  overshadowed  by  round  dotaclied  hills,  and  maintains  a  large 
fleet  of  fishing-boats.  There  are  renuukablo  cliffs  on  Point  Verde  and 
Dixon  Island,  near  the  town;  and  the  views  from  Signal  Hill  and  Castle 
Hill  extend  far  out  over  the  bay.  There  is  much  romantic  scenery  along 
the  narrow  channels  of  the  N.  E,  and  S.  E.  Arms,  which  extend  from  the 
harbor  in  among  the  mountains.    Railroad  to  St.  John's,  in  84  AI. 

In  the  year  1660  Placentia  Bay  was  entered  by  two  French  frigates,  which  sailed  up 
into  the  harbor  and  landed  a  strong  force  of  soldiers,  with  lieavy  artillery  and  other 
munitions.  Here  they  erected  a  strong  fort,  occupying  a  point  so  near  the  channel 
that  the  Baron  La  Honfcin  (who  was  detached  for  duty  here)  said  that  *'  ships  going 
In  graze  (so  to  speak)  upon  the  angle  of  th'3  bastion."  The  French  held  this  jtost 
until  1713,  when  it  was  surrendered,  according  to  the  terms  of  the  treaty  of  Utrecht. 
The  port  became  famous  as  the  resort  of  the  French  privateers  which  were  destroy- 
ing the  English  fisheries,  and  Commodore  Warren  was  sent  out  (in  1(J92)  with  three 
60-gun  frigates  and  two  smaller  vessels  to  destroy  the  town.  Wurren  ran  in  ciose 
to  Placentia  and  opened  fire,  but  was  warmly  received  by  the  batteries  at  the  en- 
trance and  by  Fort  St.  Louis.  After  a  heavy  cannonade  of  six  hours'  duration,  the 
English  fleet  was  forced  to  draw  off  In  1696  Iberville  gathered  14  war-vessels  at 
Placentia,  and  having  received  400  men  of  Quebec,  sailed  to  the  E  and  overran  all 
the  Atlantic  coast  of  Newfoundland,  returning  with  40-50  prize-ships  and  COO 
prisoners.  In  1697  the  great  French  fleet,  which  (under  Iberville)  desti"\ed  all 
the  British  posts  on  Hudson's  Bay,  gathered  here.  So  much  did  the  Briti.-li  dread 
the  batteries  of  Placentia  and  the  warlike  enthu.«iasni  of  M  de  Costabelle,  its  com- 
mander, that  Admiral  Walker,  anchored  at  S\dney,  with  a  splendid  fleet  carrxing 
4,000  land-soldiers  and  9U0  cannon,  refused  to  obey  his  orders  to  reduce  this  little 
French  fortress,  and  sailed  back  to  Britain  in  disgrace  AVhen  France  surrcndi'ied 
Newfoundland,  in  1713,  the  soldiers  and  citizens  of  Placeiitla  migrated  to  Cape  Bre- 
ton ;  aud  in  1744  a  French  naval  expedition  uutler  M.  de  Brotz  failed  to  recapture 
it  from  the  British.  This  town  afterwards  became  one  of  tiie  chief  ports  of  the 
Province  ;  but  has  of  late  years  lost  much  of  its  relative  importance.  A  road  runs 
hence  to  St.  John's  in  80  M. ;  also  through  the  settlements  on  the  S.  to  Distress 
Cove  in  26  M. ;  also  S.  W.  38  M.  to  Branch,  on  St.  Mary's  Bay. 

Little  Placentia  Is  on  a  narrow  harbor  5  M.  N.  of  Placentia,  and  has  383 
inhabitants.  Near  this  point  is  a  bold  peak  of  the  western  range  in 
Avalon,  from  which  67  ponds  are  visible.  The  islands  in  the  bay  are 
visited  from  this  point.  Ram's  Islands  (133  inhabitants)  are  10  M.  dts- 
tant;  Red  Island  (227  inhabitant?)  is  12  M.  W. ;  and  about  18  M.  distant  is 
IMer  islieen  Island,  which  is  21  M.  long,  and  has  on  its  W.  coast  the  Ragged 
J.^^ands,  365  in  number.  The  great  lead-mines  at  La  Manche  are  12  M.  X. 
of  Little  Placentia,  on  the  Isthmus  of  Avalon,  7  M.  from  Trinity  Bay.  At 
the  head  of  the  bay,  33  M.  from  Little  Placentia,  is  the  village  of  North 
Harbor,  near  the  great  Powder-Horn  Hills,  and  7  M.  beyond  is  Black 
River,  famous  for  its  wild-fowl  and  other  game. 

Harbor  Buffet  is  13  ^A.  from  Little  Placentia,  on  th'j  lofty  and  indented  Long 
Island,  and  has  333  inhabitants.  Near  the  S.  W.  part  of  Placentia  Bay  is  the  town 
tuid  port  uf  BuriU)  a>  statiou  of  the  Westeru  Coastal  steamers  (see  page  214). 


ST.   MARY'S  BAY. 


•RimU  GO.       213 


r 


60.    The  Western  Outpo'-ts  of  Newfoundland.  —  St.  John's 

to  Cape  Ray. 

On  nUornato  Thurfdays  or  Fridays  nf^or  th<!  arrival  of  tho  mnJls  from  Europe,  the 
TVf'stcni  Coastal  sfoMmer  lo^ivcs  St.  John's  for  the  outports  on  the  S.  fshoro 

Fhi-.'s.  —  St.  .lohn's  t"  I'Vrrvland,  lO.s  ;  Ucn^wsp.  10,^:  Tr<'pas«<<v,  17s.  flrt.  ; 
St.  Marv'.'<  or  Placcntiii, '2i»s.  ;  Riirin.'2r)s  :  S^,  F/iwrctwo.  27>i.  Hd.  :  'Jrand  Hnnk, 
.I'ls.:  St.  Piorrc,  .3'2s  fid.;  IiMrlmr  Hriton,  37  s  fid  ;  Ganltoi«i  or  Ori'iit  .IcrTois, 
37s  fid.:  HurfTco,  4r)s.  :  La  Poll*',  47  n.  fid.  ;  Ro.«<««  IMnnchc,  r)()s  ;  ('tiniincl,  558. ; 
Sydney,  70  s.    Meals  are  included.     The  trip  out  and  back  takes  10  to  lli  days. 

St.  .lolm's  to  Cape  Rtice,  see  Route  54. 

I'assin^if  through  tho  rocky  portals  of  the  harbor  of  St.  John's,  the 
steamer  directs  her  course  to  the  S.  along  the  iron-bound  Strait  Shore. 
After  visitin;:;  Ferryland  and  Renewse  (see  page  198),  tho  Red  Hills  are 
Si  3n  ill  the  W. ;  and  beyond  the  lofty  bare  sununit  of  Cape  Baliard,  the 
dreaded  cliil's  of  Cape  Race  (page  199)  are  rounded  well  olT  shore.  Otf 
Freshwater  Point  the  course  is  changed  to  N.  W.,  and  Trepassey  Bay  is 
entered.  The  shores  are  lofty  and  bare,  and  open  to  the  sweep  of  the 
sea.  8^  M.  from  Freshwater  Point  is  Powles  Head,  on  whose  W.  side  the 
harbor  of  Trepasaey  in  sheltered.  The  town  contains  514  inhabitants,  most 
of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  an  1  fronts  on  a  secure  harbor  which 
is  never  closed  by  ice.   Roads  lead  heiica  to  Sahnonier  (31  M  )  and  Renewse. 

Tn  1*328  Lord  BaUiniore's  ships  of  Avalon,  the  Benediction  and  the  V/r^ori/, entered 
Trcpi.s.^ey  Hay  under  full  sail,  bent  on  attacking  the  Frenol.i  Hottleinent.  The  Bene' 
di'linn  fir.-<t  greeted  the  fleet  with  several  cannon-shot,  after  svhich  sho  sent  a  terrifio 
broadside  among  the  ve.>'.-iels.  Tlie  Ba.s(iue  sailors  tied  to  tho  shore,  andtlie  Virtorif, 
lo  veviiig  her  boats,  took  i)o.s.<(>ssion  of  all  the  vessels  in  tlie  harbor  and  bore  thein 
away  as  prizes.  The  town  of  Trepassey  was  destroyed  by  a  British  naval  attack  in  1702. 

The  steamer  now  runs  S.  W.  to  and  around  Cape  Pine,  on  which  is  a 
tall  circular  tower  which  upholds  a  fixed  light  314  ft.  above  the  sea,  visible 
at  a  distance  of  24  M.  1  M.  W.  N.  W.  is  Cape  Freels,  a  little  beyond 
which  is  St.  Shot's  Baij. 

This  narrow  shore  between  Cape  Pino  and  St.  Shot's  is  said  to  be  the  most  danger- 
ous and  destructive  district  on  tlie  North  American  coast,  and  hits  been  the  scene  of 
hundreds  of  shipwrecks.  Tlie  conflicting  and  variable  currents  in  these  waters  set 
toward  the  shore  with  great  force,  and  draw  vessels  inward  upon  the  nigged  ledges. 
In  former  years  disasters  were  frequent  heiv,  but  at  jji-esent  mariners  are  warned 
oir  by  the  .\dmiralty  charts  and  the  lights  and  whistles.  St.  Shot's  is  as  dreaded  a 
niime  on  the  N  coast  as  (Jape  Ilatteras  is  in  tlie  southern  sea.  In  1816  the  transport 
Harpooner  was  wrecked  on  (Jii)e  Pine,  and  2n0  people  were  lost. 

St.  Mary's  Bay  is  hounded  by  Cape  Freels  and  Lance  Point,  and  extends  for  28 
M.  into  the  Peninsula  of  .\valon.  On  the  E.  shore  is  .S7.  Mftrp\'!,  a  court-house  town 
and  port  of  entry,  situated  on  a  deep  laml-locked  harbor,  and  largely  engiiged  in 
fisuing.  To  tlie  S.  is  the  mountainous  Cape  English,  near  which  a  narrow  sandy 
he.Mch  separates  the  bay  from  Holyroo/f  Ponr,',  a  remarkable  body  of  fresh  water  over 
12  M.  long.  It  is  65  M  by  road  from  St.  Marys  to  St  .John's";  and  at  16  M.  dis- 
tance the  village  of  Snimonier  is  rt'iiched.  This  is  a  fishing  and  farming  town  near 
the  outlet  of  the  broad  Salmonier  River,  famous  for  its  great  salmon  To  tlie  N.  W'., 
at  the  head  of  the  bay,  is  .some  striking  .scenery,  ner.r(!olinet  Bay,  where  einptie.-< 
the  Ilodge-Water  River,  descending  from  the  Quemo-Oospen  Ponds,  in  the  interior 
of  Av.ilon.  There  are  several  small  hamlets  in  this  vicinity ;  and  (W/neMs accessible 
by  liind  from  St.  John's  in  56  M.  The  W.  shore  of  St.  Mary's  Bay  is  niouataiuuus 
and  rugged,  and  has  no  settlements  of  any  consequence. 


•  i 


i% 


m 


.\ 


^\\^ 


^ 


w  ■'... 


■*r 


■w^ 


J'  < 


2 1 4      Jiuute  60. 


FORTUNE  BAY. 


I    » 


Beyond  the  hold  Capo  St.  Mary  the  stonmer  nniR  to  the  N.  W.  ncro«»s  the 
wide  entrmice  to  IMacenthi  liay  (see  pajre  212).  At  ahont  20  M.  from  ('ay)O 
St.  Mary  the  sharply  dcliiicd  headland  of  Capo  Cliapoaii  Hntige  becomes 
visible;  and  the  liarbor  of  Burin  is  entered  at  ai»oiit  42  M  from  Cape  St. 
Mary.  Tills  lniri)or  is  the  finest  in  Newfonndland,  and  is  sheltered  by 
i-lands  whoso  eliir-bound  shores  are  nearly  2t")  ft.  liij,rh.  On  Dodding  Head 
is  a  llu;litliouse  430  ft.  above  the  sea,  bearing  a  revolving  light  which  is 
visible  for  27  M.  Still  farther  np,  and  almost  entirely  land-locked,  is  tho 
Burin  Inlet.  The  town  of  Burin  has  2,-'Jf)0  mhabitants,  and  is  an  important 
trading-station,  supplying  a  great  pMi-t  of  IMaeentla  Bay.  The  adjacent 
scenery  Is  of  the  boldest  and  mo>t  rugged  character,  the  lofty  islands  vying 
with  the  inland  mountains. 

On  leaving  Burin  the  course  is  laid  to  the  S.  W.,  passing  the  lofty  prom- 
ontories of  Corbin  Head,  Miller  Head,  and  Red  Head.  Beyond  the  tall 
sngar-loaf  on  Sculpin  Toint  the  deep  harbors  of  Little  and  Great  St.  Law- 
rence, are  seen  opening  to  the  r. ;  and  the  sea-resisting  rock  of  Cajw  Cliopcau 
Jiouye  is  next  passed.  Tills  great  landmark  resembles  in  shape  the  crown 
of  II  hat,  and  is  748  ft.  high,  with  sheer  precipices  over  300  ft.  high.  From 
this  point  the  course  is  nearly  straight  for  33  >L,  to  St,  Pierre,  running  well 
off,  but  always  in  sight  of  a  bold  and  elevated  shore. 

St.  Pierre,  see  page  185. 

On  leaving  St.  Pierre  the  course  is  to  the  N.,  passing,  in  6  M.,  the  low 
shores  of  Grten  Island,  and  then  rmuiing  for  a  long  distance  between  the 
Miqnelon  Islands  and  May  and  Danticic  Points  (on  the  mainland),  which 
are  about  12  M.  apart.  When  about  half-way  across  Fcirtune  B.iy,  Brunei 
Lsland  (5  M.  long)  Is  passed,  and  on  its  K.  point  is  seen  a  lighthouse  408  ft. 
above  the  sea,  showing  a  flashing  li^ht  for  25  M.  at  sea.  6  M.  beyond  this 
point  is  Sagona  Island,  with  its  village  of  fishermen;  and  5  M.  farther  N. 
the  steamer  enters  Harbor  Briton.  Here  is  an  Anglican  village  of  about 
80J  inhabitants,  with  an  extensive  local  trade  along  the  shores  of  Fortune 
Bay.  The  harbor  is  very  secure  and  spacious,  and  runs  far  Into  the 
land.  This, town  was  settled  in  1616  by  Welshmen,  and  was  then  named 
Cambriul. 

Fortune  Boy 

is  included  between  Point  May  and  P.iss  Island,  and  is  36  M.  wide  and  66  M.  long. 
Forluiie  is  a  town  of  over  800  inhiibitants,  situated  near  the  entrance  of  the  bay, 
and  on  tlie  I/upjiline  road.  Its  cnerpios  are  chietly  devoted  to  the  fisheries  and  to 
tr;iilin<r  with  St  Pierre.  3  M.  E.  N.  E.  are  the  highlands  of  Cape  Grand  Hank,  from 
whicli  the  shore  trends  N.  E.  hy  the  hamlets  of  Garnish  and  Frenchman's  Cove  to 
Point  Enragee.  The  E.  and  N  shores  are  broken  by  deep  estuaries,  in  which  are 
small  fi'ihint^-settleinents  :  and  in  the  N.  W.  corner  are  tiie  North  and  East  Bays, 
famous  for  lierriuirtisheries,  which  attnict  large  fleets  of  American  vessels.  On  the 
W.  sl>ofe  is  the  prosiu'i'ous  village  of  l>«lleoi'eni,  engaged  in  the  cod  and  herring 
fisheries,  and  distant  15  M.  from  Il.irbor  Hriton  HoikIs  lead  from  tiiis  point  to  the 
villages  of  Harrow,  Jiluc!  Pinion,  Cofhin,  English  llavlior  West.  Coombs"  Cove,  and 
Sr.  ,Ia<iues.  The  other  settlements  on  the  W.  shore  are  niere  fishing-stations.  clo.«ely 
liennned  in  between  the  niouutaius  and  the  sea,  and  are  visited  by  boats  from  Harbor 
Britna. 


BUROEO. 


liuute  GO.       215 


\oro«>s  the 
'rom  Capo 
becomes 
Ciipo  St. 
>Uere(l  by 
(ling  Head 
t  \\\\W\\  is 
ed,  is  tlio 
important 
3  ndjucent 
imds  vying 

ofty  prom- 
lul  the  tiill 
vt  St.  Liiw- 
pt  Chapeau 
I  the  crowu 
ligh.  Trom 
aiming  well 


^I.,  the  low 

lotween  the 
lui),  which 
li.iy,  Bvnnet 
louse  408  ft. 
loyond  this 
farther  N. 
e  of  about 
of  Fortune 
far  into  the 
hen  named 


_  66  M.  long. 
|-e  of  the  bay, 
lieiies  and  to 
ll  Hank,  from 
lian's  Cove  to 
lin  which  are 
ll  East  Bays, 
tels.     On  the 
and  herring 
[point  to  tlie 
l)s"  Cove,  and 
Ttions.  cloi^ely 
I  from  Harbor 


Herinltnfcn  Hay  i«  an  extensive  bi^^ht  of  the  sea  to  the  \.  of  Pans  iHland.    Tt8 

printipal  Ionvm  is  ILmtituiif  l'of<',i\u  An^;lil•an  M-ttlcnieiit  it  M.  from  llarhor  Hritoii. 
N  of  tlic  bity  is  l.oni;  Island,  wliii-li  is  25  M.  ar«)Un(l,  and  nheltcrs  the  liliy  (if  1>«> 
H|>alr,  famous  tor  its  proiitic  sahnon-tisiiiMit-s.  From  tlic  lit-ail  of  tiiis  hay  Indian 
trails  lead  inland  to  iioni;  I'ond,  Kound  Pond,  and  a  ^reat  <  lu.'<ter  of  uiivi>it(>d  lakes 
tiitmitcd  in  a  hind  of  forests  and  monntains  From  the  farther  end  of  theeiu  iuluuU 
waters  diverge  tlie  great  trailn  to  tlie  Uiver  of  FiXploits  and  llall'H  Hay. 

After  ruiming  out  to  the  S.  W.  between  Sagona  Island  and  Connaigro 
Head,  the  course  is  laid  along  the  comparatively  straigiit  coast  called  the 
WiAtevn  Shore,  extending  from  Fortune  Bay  to  Cape  Kay.  ('rossing  the 
wide  estuary  of  Hermitage  IJay,  the  bold  highlands  of  Cape  La  Ilune  arc 
ni)proaolied,  12  M.  X.  of  the  Penguin  Islands.  About  25  M.  \V,  of  Capo 
La  Iluno  the  steamer  passes  the  liainea  Islands,  of  which  the  isle  called 
Columbe  is  remarkable  for  its  height  and  boldness.  Tl  ore  is  a  ri>liing- 
community  located  here  ;  and  the  August  herrings  are  held  as  very 
choice. 

The  old  marine  records  report  of  the  Rameu  Isles  :  "  Tn  which  isles  are  so  great 
nbnndance  of  the  huge  and  mightic  sea-oxen  with  great  teeth  in  tlie  moneths  of 
April,  Mav,  and  dune,  that  there  haue  been  lifteeue  huudreth  killed  there  by  cue 
small  burke  in  the  jeere  lOlJl" 

In  1597  the  Knglish  ship  Ilopcivell  entered  the  harbor  of  Ramea  and  tried  to 
phnider  the  F'reneh  vessels  there  of  their  stores  uud  powder,  but  was  forced  by  a 
shore-battery  to  leave  incontinently. 

About  9  M.  W.  N.  W.  of  Ramea  Columbe,  the  steamer  enters  the  har- 
bor of  Burgeo,  a  port  of  entry  and  trading-station  of.  650  inhabitants,  sit- 
uated on  one  of  the  Hurgeo  Isles,  which  here  form  several  small,  snug 
harbors.  This  town  is  the  most  important  on  the  Western  Shore,  and 
is  a  favorite  resort  for  vessels  seeking  supplies.  3  M.  distaut  is  Upper 
BuvfjvOy  built  on  the  grassy  sand-banks  of  a  small  islet;  and  7  RL  N.  is 
the  salmon-fishery  at  Grandy's  lirook,  on  the  line  of  the  N.  Y.,  N.  F.  and 
London  Telegraph.  • 

Beyond  the  Bur'-oo  Isles  the  course  is  laid  along  the  Western  Shore,  and 
at  about  25  M.  the  nuissive  heights  at  the  head  of  Grand  Bruit  Bay  are 
seen.  5  M.  farther  on,  after  passing  Ireland  Island,  the  steamer  turns  into 
La  Poile  Bay,  a  narrow  arm  of  the  sea  which  cleaves  the  hills  for  10  M. 
The  vessel  ascends  3  M.  to  La  Puile  (Little  Bay),  a  small  and  decadent 
fishing-village  on  the  W' .  shore. 

The  distance  from  La  Poile  to  Channel,  the  last  port  of  call,  is  30  M., 
and  the  coast  is  studded  with  small  hamlets.  Garia  Bay  is  5-6  M.  W. 
of  La  Poile,  and  has  two  or  three  villages,  situated  amid  picturesque 
scenery  and  surrounded  by  forests.  Rose  Blanche  is  midway  bet\vee;i 
La  Poile  and  Channel,  and  is  a  {)ort  of  entry  with  nearly  500  inhabitants, 
situated  on  a  small  and  snug  harbor  among  the  mountains.  It  has  a  con- 
siderable trade  with  the  adjacent  fishing-settlements^  8  M.  beyond  Iio.ie 
iUanche  are  the  Burnt  Islands,  and  3  M.  farther  on  are  the  Dead  Islands. 
At  8-10  M.  inland  are  seen  the  dark  and  desolate  crests  of  the  Long- 
Kange  Mountains,  sheltering  the  Codroy  Valley. 


If:?,? 

.■Ml 

■  '  j'i 
'I;   ■  i'l 


i„ 


i: 


w 


■I, 


1  r»l 


210       RuutcOl. 


PORT  AU   BASQUE. 


,> 


■}\» 


Tho  f)«-ti(l  InIhikIh  (Fr«'uch,  />*  /5/r.t  auor  Mints)  an'  so  nntned  on  nrrount  of 

ttit>  iiiaiiv  fatal  wi'i'i  ks  wliicli  liiivo  (MiMirrril  uti  tln-ir  <lark  rm  kn  The  iiaiiio  wiin 
^ivi-ii  alter  tiic  liiHh  of  ail  fitii)fi'aiit-.'4lii|i,  ulun  tlic  i'lamls  \\«m'«'  ><<)  Irli.^cil  witli 
liiiiiiaii  t'oriiM-s  tliat  it  took  a  pillar  of  iiicii  the  ila\.>«  to  Imrv  tlifin.  (i*-or){('  llarvt-y 
loriiicrly  lived  on  one  of  llic  i-lamls.  and  Mived  liiiiidied.s  of  live.H  liv  lioldly  |iutllii)( 
out  to  the  wrciked  fliipH.  Alioiit  iSiO  the  Disintlilt  >tiiuk  oil  one  of  the  isles  >\\vi 
was  full  of  iiiin.i^rant.x,  and  her  hoats  could  not  live  in  tin-  heavy  pile  whieli  was 
rapidly  li-eakiiiK'  l)i'>'  >'!'  ""'  Harvey  ixished  out  in  his  row-lioat,  attended  only 
hy  |i  daiiglilt  r  (!(■  >eais  old  I  ai  d  ,1  ho\  Ti^earsoid.  lit*  l.inded  every  one  of  tho 
paK.Mii^it  i.-<  and  »row  1  lii.'l  in  iiiindier)  safely,  and  fed  them  for  thn'c  weeks,  In.-o- 
inut  li  tiiat  his  faiidly  had  nothing;  hut  lish  to  eat  all  wintir  utter  in  Ih.'iH  thu 
<ila!^H'>w  ship  Uiiiikin  struck  a  !■  ck  off  the  isles,  anil  went  to  pieces,  the  crew  clini;- 
in;,'  ti.  the  hteni-rail.  In  spite  of  the  heavy  M-a,  llarve\  scued  theiii  ail  ('lit  in 
nun. Iier),  liy  making  t'oiii'  trips  in  his  punt.  "'Ihewliol  oast  hetwecn  \a\  I'mlo 
and  (ape  Kay  seeins  to  have  heeii  at  one  time  or  other  strewed  with  wrecks  Kv«'ry 
house  is  surrouiult  (I  witli  old  rlKt-'int^.  spars,  ma.ts,  sails,  ships'  hells,  rudders, 
wheels,  and  other  matters.  The  houses  too  contain  tt'lt'.scopes,  coinpasscH,  and  jiur- 
liouM  of  ships' furniture."  (I'lioF.  Jikes.) 

Channel  (or  Port  an  Basqiu)  is  3-4  M.  W.  of  the  Deiul  Isles,  ntid  30 
M.  iVoiii  Lit  roile.  It  i.s  Ji  port  ofoiitrv  and  ;i  tnitisfer-st  .tioii  of  tl  c  N.  Y., 
N.  F.  and  London  'l'elc'<;raph  Company,  an<l  hu.s  nearly  1,000  iiiliabitatits, 
with  ^n  Anglican  chuicli  und  several  niereantile  est!d)iislnTients.  'Ilio 
tisherie.s  are  of  nnieli  importance,  and  larire  quantities  of  halibut  are 
caught  in  the  vicinity.  A  few  miles  to  the  \V.  is  the  gresit  Table  Mt., 
over  Cape   L'ay,   beyond  which  the   French    Shore   turns  to   the  N.     A 


schooner  leaves   Fort 


ail 


I5as(iuo  every  fortnight,  on  the  arrival  of  tho 


steamer  from  St.  .lohn's,  and  carries  the  mails  N.  to  St.  George's  liay,  tho 
Bay  of  Islands,  and  Bonne  Bay  (see  Koute  (51). 

Tho  steamer,  on  every  alterntite  trip,  runs  S.  W.  from  Channel  to  Syd- 
ney, Cape  F)reton.  The  course  is  jieross  the  o]»eti  sett,  tind  no  land  is  seen, 
after  the  mountains  about  <'aj)e  Kiiy  sink  below  the  horizon,  until  tho 
shores  of  Cape  Breton  are  a])prouched. 

Sydney,  see  page  150. 


I  J  r 


61.    The  French  Shore  of  Newfoundland.  —  Cape  Ray  to 

Cape  St.  John. 

It  is  not  likely  that  any  tourists,  except,  perhaps,  a  few  adventurous  yachtsmen, 
will  visit  this  district.  It  is  destitute  of  hotels  and  roads,  and  has  only  one  short 
and  infreciuent  mail-packet  route.  Tlie  only  settlements  are  a  few  widely  scattered 
fisliint;-villajies,  inhabiteil  by  a  rude  and  hardy  class  <d'  mariners  ;  and  no  form  of 
local  government  has  ever  been  established  on  any  part  of  the  sliore  But  the  Editor 
is  reliK  tant  to  pass  over  sudi  a  vast  extent  of  the  coast  of  tlie  Maritime  Provinces 
without  some  brief  notice,  especially  since  this  distiict  is  in  many  of  its  features  ^o 
unique.  Tiie  Editor  was  unable,  owing  to  the  lateness  of  the  season,  to  visit  tlie 
I'reneh  Shore  in  person,  but  has  been  aided  in  tlie  preparation  of  the  following 
notes,  both  by  gentlemen  wlio  have  traversed  the  coast  and  the  inland  lakes,  and 
by  various  statistics  of  the  Province.  ]t  is  tliercfore  believed  tiiat  the  ensuing 
itinerary  is  correct  in  all  its  main  features.  The  distamies  have  been  verified  by 
coioparison  with  the  Biitish  Adii.iralty  cliarts. 

The  Frencli  Shore  may  bevi.-ited  by  the  trading-schooners  which  run  from  port 
to  jiort  tiiroujiiiout  it.-  Wijoio  extcui  uurit  g  tiie  suuur.er  fftuson.  iue  n.ost  iuienst- 
ing  parts  of  it  n;ay  also  be  seen  by  taking  tlie  mail-packet  which  leaves  I'ort  au 
Basque  (Channel)  fortnightly,  and  runs  N.  to  Bonue  Bay,  touching  all  along  the 
coast. 


ftcronnt  of 

llllUIC    WIIH 

•ii.j;t'il  wltli 
rn<'  liiirvty 
dly  )iut(liiK 

•  Mi'H     M>o 

•  wliifh  wiiH 
tniiU'd  only 
>  (111*'  tif  tli« 

ttlM'ks,   lll.-O- 

iii  ii-;iH  tiiu 

'  crew  cliii^;- 
111  till  ('li>  ill 
ri)  Iji  I'mle 
(ks  Kvciy 
lis,  ruddtTS, 
08,  und  iiur- 

ile?,  nnd  30 
rtheN.  Y., 
nlmbitiuits, 
U'lltS.  'llio 
liiilibut  nro 
yuA/e  J//., 
the  N.  A 
rival  of  tho 
i'a  Buy,  the 

incl  to  SyJ- 
uul  is  seen, 
until  tiio 


e  Ray  to 


U' 


ynchtsnien, 
ly  one  short 

■ly  seatttTi'd 

no  fdiiu  of 
ut  the  Editor 
me  Pioviiices 
ts  features  co 

to  vi.-it  the 
the  following 
id  lakes,  and 

the  ensuing 
n  verified  by 

im  from  port 

i.OSt   iutCTCSi.- 

javes  I'ort  au 
all  along  the 


CAPE  RAY. 


lioute  Gl      2 1 7 


The  French  Sho^e  cxtond'i  from  Capo  Pt.  John  (S.  of  Nofir  P.ime  H.iy) 
around  (lie  N  and  W,  eo.thtH  of  the  isliiiid  to  <'iip<>  Kny,  imludiiitr  tlic  riehext  viiU 
le> '4  niid  fa i rest  soil  of  Newfoundland  It  is  nearl.\  exempt  from  fo^;*,  hor  lerr«  on 
tlm  most  prolitlc  tislihitf-ixround-',  and  is  called  tlu'  "  (J  irden  of  Newfoiiniliaiid  " 
Uy  th«  tn-aties  of  ITIII,  litiH,  and  ITMl,  the  Kreiicli  received  the  r';<ht  toe.itcli  and 
cun*  tish,  and  to  erect  hutn  and  sfa^fes  alonic  this  entire  <'oant,  —  a  conpes>ion  of 
whleii  they  have  aviiiled  liienihelves  to  the  fullest  extent  There  are  several  Hrlfl'U 
rolonios  aloiiK  the  shore,  hut  they  live  witluutt  law  or  magistrates,  siiire  the  homo 
government  lieiieves  that  such  a|)|iointnientN  would  la;  a^^alnst  the  s|iirit  of  tlie 
tri-aties  with  France  (whiclj  practically  neutrali/,e(l  the  coast).  The  only  authority 
Ih  that  wlilch  if*  Kiven  hy  eourfesy  to  the  resilient  dert^yiiieii  of  the  seftlement.s. 

It  Is  1>  M.  from  Channel  to  (;at)P  Hay,  where  the  French  Shore  he;;iiis.  The  dl«» 
tancen  from  this  point  are  ^ivcn  an  hetween  harlior  and  harhin',aiid  do  not  represent 
the  Ntrai;<ht  course  from  one  outport  to  another  at  a  (jreat  ilistanee. 

Cape  Kay  to  Coiroy,  1.'}  M. ;  Cape  AiiKuille,  m(Crahhs  nrook,4r);  Middle  Urtuich, 
f)(» ;  llnlihison's  Point,  r/) ;  Flat  Hay,  A?  ;  Handy  Point,  tl'*;  Indian  lleid,7r));  V:i\w 
Sr  (h'orne,  54  ;  Port  au  Port  (liOiin  Point),  81  ;  Hay  of  Islands,  lOS  ;  Cape  (Jregory, 
12');  Honne  IJav,  ltd;  (»reen  Cove,  147  ;  Cow  Ifarhor,  loM  ;  Portland  Hill,  ITU  ;  Hay 
of  In-^ornachoix  (Point  Ki<li), '2(>d  ;  Port  au  Choi x, '2<I8  ;  Point  Femlie,  2*2(1 :  Flower 
Cove, '24') ;  Savage  Cove.  24!> ;  Handy  Hav,  250;  (ireen  Island. 'JW, ,  Cape  N  umn, 
HSo;  Pistolet  Island,  "ilili ;  Noddv  II  irhor,  HOd  ;  Quirjmn  (Capo  Haiild),  fJlO  :  «  rjj^uet 
H(v,a21;  Ht.  Lunaire,  a2t) ;  Hraha  Hav,a3l;  Ht  Anthniiv,  33');  Ooo  .  (arbor 
(Hare  Hay), .lid;  Harbor  de  Veaii.  3iH  ;  Ht.  .lulien, .%'};  (Jroque,  3.')8  ;  ('oi,  he,  3713; 
C!anada  Hav ,  3H7  ;  Great  Harbor  Deep,  41U ;  Lu  I'l'ur  du  LLs,  4U2  ;  < .'  Hcie,  456 ;  Cape 
at.  John,  4(JU. 

*  Cape  Ray  is  the  S.  VV.  point  of  Newfoundland,  and  is  strikingly  pic- 
turesque in  its  outlines.  3  M.  from  the  shore  rises  a  preat  tnble-nioun- 
tain,  with  sides  1,700  ft.  hi<^h  and  an  extensive  plateau  on  the  summit. 
Nearer  the  sea  is  the  Stif/nr  L<inf\  a  syiiHiictrical  conical  peak  HOO  ft.  hifrh, 
N.  of  which  is  tho  Tolt  Peak,  1,280  ft.  hi<rii.  These  heij^htH  may  he  seen 
for  f)0  M.  at  sea,  and  the  flashinp;  light  on  tho  cape  is  vis  hie  at  iiiplit  for  20 
M  From  this  point  St.  Paul's  Island  bears  wS.  W.  42  M.,  and  Cape  North 
is  W.  by  S.  57  M.  (see  pa<ro  160). 

Soon  after  passing; out  to  the  W.  of  Cape  ^iy,  Cnpe  AnrjnUle  is  seen  on 
the  N., — a  hold  promontory  nearly  1,200  ft,  ui;:h.  Retwcon  these  capea 
is  the  valley  of  the  Grmt  Cudroy  Hirer,  witli  ii  farming  population  of 
several  hundred  souls;  and  along  its  course  is  the  mountain-wall  called 
the  Long  Ranpe,  stretching  obliquely  across  the  island  to  the  shores  of 
White  Bay. 

St.  George's  Bay  extends  for  about  50  M.  inland,  and  Its  shores  are 

said   to  be  very  rich  aufl   fertile,  abounding  also  in  coal.     The  scenery 

about  the  hamlet  of  Crnbb's  Brook  "forms  a  most  lovely  and  most  Kng- 

lish  picture."    There  are  several  small  handets  around  the  bay,  of  which 

Sandy  Point  is  the  chief,  having  400  inhabitants  and  2  churches.     The 

people  are  rude  and  uncultured,  fond  of  roaming  and  adventure;  but  the 

moral  condition  of  these  communities  ranks  high  in  excellence,  and  great 

deference  is  paid  to  the  clergy.     The  Micmac  Ind  ans  are  often  seen  in 

this  vicinity,  and  are  partially  civilized,  and  devout  members  of  the  Catholic 

•II.     The  country  to  the  E  is  mountainous,  merging  into  wide  grassy 

,  on  which  the  deer  pass  the  winter  season,  roaming  about  the  icy 

of  the  great  interior  lakes. 
lU 


ni 


f 

■I''' 
'■•II 


1 


fit', 


i,  • 


'f., 


m 


/'-i 


i:^ 


tii 


■V      ' 

■i  i'  i 


I  i;».i 


^.Mi'J^ 


IP"— 


218      Route  61. 


GRAND  POND. 


I   >;4i 


I-' 


Grand  Poml  Is  Ufiinlly  (and  rnrolv)  visited  from  St  fSrorpeV  Bay.     After  M' 

ccjiilinij;  the  bioiid  sound  at  the  head  nl'  the  hay  for  about  ]U  M  ,  a  blind  forest-path 
i.s  entered,  anil  the  Indian  jjnides  U-ad  tlie  way  to  the  N,  E.  over  a  vast  expanse  of 
moss  (very  nneoiiifortabh;  trav«Ulin;r).  Tlie  Hare-Head  Hills  are  |)ass('d,  and  after 
about  15  >l.  of  arduous  niarehinj;,  the  traveller  reaches  the  Cirand  L'ond.  '*  And  a 
bei'utiful  sigiit  it  was.  A  narrow  .-trip  of  blue  water,  wideinn^r,  as  it  jiroreeded,  to 
about  2  M. ,  lay  l)etween  bold  loeiiv  pnc  ipici'S  covered  N\ith  wood,  und  ri>ing  almost 
directly  from  the  wafer  to  a  iieij:ht  of  6-t)()0  ft.,  having  b.ire  top.s  a  little  farther 
back  at  a  stiil  greater  elevation. ■■  Tlie  I$ay  Indians  keep  canoes  on  the  jiond,  and 
there  are  several  wiirwanis  on  the  shores,  (iauie  and  fisli  are  abundant  in  tlie.se 
woods  and  waters,  sine*;  it  is  but  once  in  years  that  the  all-sla\hig  white  man 
reaches  the  jiond,  ami  the  prudent  Indians  l<ill  only  enough  for  their  own  actual 
needs.  There  is  a  lofty  islanil  2(1  M.  long,  on  each  side  of  wliich  are  the  narrow  and 
ravine-like  channels  of  tlie  pond,  with  an  enormous  depth  of  water.  The  route  to 
llnll'K  Kji,\  (.Me  jiage  211)  leads  up  the  river  from  the  N.  K.  enrner  of  the  jiond 
for  about  Jio  M.,  passing  through  four  lakes  From  the  uppern.ost  pond  the  canoo 
is  carried  for  h  M.  and  juit  into  the  stream  which  empties  into  Hall's  Bay.  8  M.  W. 
of  the  inlet  of  this  river  into  (irand  I'ond  is  the  outlet  of  .lunction  Urook,  a  rajiid 
Ptreain  which  leads  to  the  Hniiiber  Iliver  and  Deer  Poud  in  8-  1(J  M.,  and  is  passable 
by  canoes,  with  frcciueiit  jiortages. 

Near  the  N.  end  of  (jraial  I'ond,  about  the  year  1770,  occurred  a  terrible  battle 
between  the  Micmacs  and  the  Ked  Indians,  which  resulted  in  the  extermination  of 
the  latter  nation  Tlie  INlicniacs  were  a  Catholic  triVie  from  Nova  Scotia,  wlio  had 
moved  over  to  Newfoundland,  and  were  displacing  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  the 
Ked  Indians,  or  Hwothics.  In  the  great  battle  on  Grard  Pond  the  utmost  deter- 
mination and  sjiirit  wert;  shown  by  the  Ikeothics,  invaded  here  in  their  innermost 
retreats.  Ihit  they  had  only  bows  ami  ariows,  while  the  Midiiaes  were  armed  with 
guns,  and  at  the  c'o.m'  of  the  battle  not  a  man,  woman,  or  eliild  of  the  lied  Indians 
of  this  section  was  lefi  alive. 

This  region  is  densely  covered  with  forests  of  large  trees  (chiefly  fir  and  spruce), 
alternating  with '•  the  barrens,"'  vast  tracts  which  are  covered  with  thick  moss. 
Gov  Sir. John  Hiirvey,  after  careful  inspection,  claims  that  the  barrens  are  under- 
laid with  luxuriant  soil,  while  hr  the  cultivation  of  grasses,  oats,  barley,  and  pota- 
toes there  is  "no  country  out  of  England  or  Eg.\  pt  superior  to  it  "'  The  intense 
and  protraeted  cold  of  the  winter  seasons  will  i)rt  elude  agriculture  on  a  large  scale. 

Tlie>e  iiiland  solitudes  are  adorned,  during  the  sliort  hot  svimnier,  with  many 
brilliant  flowers.  Among  tliese  are  great  numbers  of  wih!  r<ises,  violets,  iri-es, 
pitcher-plants,  heather,  inaideu-h;iir,  and  vividly  colored  lichens  ;  while  (says  Sir 
K.  Honnycastle)  "  in  the  tribe  of  lilies,  Solomon  in  all  his  glory  exceeded  not  the 
beauty  of  those  produced  in  this  iinhe»'ded  wild<'rness."  The  only  white  man  who 
ever  yet  crossed  these  lonely  lands  from  sliore  to  shore  was  a  Scotchman  named 
Cormack,  whowalke'  from  Trinity  15ay  to  St.  Ueorge's  IJay,  in  1S1:2  He  was  ac- 
companied by  a  Micniae  liiilian,  and  the  trij)  took  several  weeks.  The  maps  of 
Newfoundland  cover  this  vast  unexplored  region  with  conjectural  mountains  and 
hypothetical  l.-ikes.  The  ]$ritish  Adndr.ilty  chart  of  NewtbundlMnd  (Southern  Por- 
tion) ondts  most  of  these,  but  gives  minule  and  valuable  topographical  outlines  of 
the  lakes  and  hills  N.  of  the  Ray  of  Despair,  the  Hcd-lndian  I'ond,  and  River  of  Ex- 
ploits, and  the  region  of  the  Grand  Pond  and  Deer  Pond,  with  their  approaches. 

Cape  St.  George  thrusts  a  Impe  line  of  precipices  into  the  sea,  and  5  .M. 
beyond  is  Red  Ishiml^  surrounded  hy  dark  red  cliffs.  25  M.  farther  to  the 
N.  K.  is  the  entrance  to  Port  au  Port,  a  jrreat  double  harbor  of  noble 
capacity.  It  is  separated  from  St.  (JeorpeVs  Bay  by  an  isthmus  but  1  M. 
wide,  at  the  W.  base  of  the  great  Table  Mt. 

The  *  Bay  of  Islands  affords  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  the  Province, 
and  is  sheltered  by  several  small  but  lofty  islands.  The  soil  alonp;  the 
shores  is  stiid  to  be  deep  and  productive,  and  adapted  to  raisiiifr  grain  and 
produce.  Limestone,  gypsum,  and  fine  marble  are  found  here  in  hirge 
quantities.  There  are  about  1,500  inhabitants  about  the  bay.  See  S.  G.W. 
lioHJaiam's  illustrated  urlicle,  in  The  Cinturij  MaijarJiie.  May,  iHSi. 


HUMBER  RIVER. 


Route  61.       219 


After  fts« 
forest- path 
L'xpanse  of 
,  and  after 
.    ''And  a 
nreedcd,  to 
•iiig  almost 
:tl»;  further 
jioiid,  and 
lit  in  these 
white  man     ' 
Dwn  actual 
narrow  and 
he  route  to 
if  the  pond 
d  the ( anoo 
,-.    8  M.  \V. 
^ok,  a  rajiid 
I  is  passable 

•rible  battle 
mination  of 
ia,  who  had 
bitants  the 
tmost  deter- 
r  innermost 
armed  with 
Red  Indians 

ind  spruce), 
thick  mos8. 
;  are  nnder- 
1-,  and  pota- 
The  intense 
la  rue  scale. 
,  with  many 
diets,  iri>es, 
ile  (says  Sir 
dcd  not  the 
te  man  who 
man  named 
He  was  ac- 
he niiips  (if 

ntains  and 
nthern  I'or- 

dutlines  of 
River  of  Ex- 
)  roaches. 

,  iind  5  M. 
ther  to  the 
r  of  noble 
is  but  1  M. 

0  Province, 
itlono;  the 
grain  and 

re  in  hirpe 

136  S.  G.W. 


At  the  head  of  the  bay  is  the  mouth  of  the  Humber  Rivf^r,  the  largest  river 
in  NewfouniUand.  In  the  last  18  M.  of  its  course  it  is  known  as  the  Hiimber  Sound, 
and  is  1-2  M.  wide  and  o()-6()  fathoms  deep,  with  lofty  und  ruj;;:;ed  hills  on  either 
b;  le.  Great  quantities  of  timber  iire  found  on  these  shores,  and  the  trout  and  sal- 
mon fisheries  are  of  considerable  value.  The  river  Hows  into  the  head  of  the  sound 
in  a  narrow  and  swift  current,  und  is  ascended  by  boats  to  the  Deer  Pond.  Ocoi- 
flonal  cabins  and  clearings  are  seen  along  the  shores,  inhabited  by  bold  and  hardy 
pioneers.  3  M  above  the  head  of  the  sound  there  is  a  rapid  1  M.  long,  up  which 
boats  are  drawn  by  lines.  Hvre  "  the  scenery  is  highly  striking  and  picturesque,— 
lofty  clilfs  of  pure  white  limestone  risnig  abruptly  out  of  the  woods  to  a  height  u( 
3  400  ft  ,  and  being  themselves  clothed  witii  thick  wood  round  their  sides  and 
over  their  summits.'"  Above  the  rapids  the  river  traverses  a  valley  '2  M.  wide,  filled 
with  birch-groves  and  hemnieil  in  by  high  hills.  The  stream  is  broad  and  shallow 
for  6  M.  above  the  rapids,  where  another  .^eries  vi  rapids  is  met,  above  which  are  the 
broad  waters  of  *  Deer  Piiiid,  2-3  M.  v  vje  and  15  M.  l.)ug.  Here  is  the  undis- 
turbed ho'.ne  of  (leer  and  smaller  game,  loons,  gulls,  and  kingfishers.  A  few  Micmac 
Indians  still  visit  these  solitudes,  and  thoir  wigwams  are  seen  on  the  low  savaunaa 
of  the  shore.    (Sec;  also  pages  211  and  218  ) 

"  Beyond  the  forest-covered  hills  which  surround  it  are  lakes  as  beautiful,  and 
larger  than  Lake  (!eorge,  the  cold  clear  wiiters  of  which  tiow  to  the  bay  under  the 
name  of  the  river  Humbc^r.  It  Inw  a  valley  li  <.:  Wyoming,  and  more  romantic 
scenery  than  the  Susiiuehanna.  The  Bay  ot  Islands  is  also  a  bay  of  streams  and  in- 
lets, an  endless  labyrinth  of  cliffs  and  woods  and  waters,  where  the  sunnner  voyager 
would  delight  to  wander,  and  which  is  worth  a  volume  sparkling  with  pictures." 

Bonne  Bay  if*  23  M.  N.  E.  of  the  Hay  of  Islands,  and  is  a  favorite  resort 
of  American  and  Trovincial  lishennen.  Great  quantities  of  herring  are 
caught  in  tliis  vicinity.  Tlio  mountains  of  the  coast-range  closely  ap- 
proach the  sea,  forming  a  bold  and  .striking  prospect;  and  the  rivers  which 
empty  into  the  bay  may  be  followed  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Long  Range, 

The  coast  to  the  N.  N.  W.  for  nearly  70  M.  i;^  straight,  with  the  slight 
indentations  of  the  Bay  of  St.  Paul  and  Cow  Bay.  The  Bay  of  Inyorna' 
c/ioix  has  comparatively  low  and  level  shores,  with  two  excellent  har- 
bors. On  its  N.  ))oint  (Point  Kich)  is  a  lighthouse  containing  a  white 
flashing-light  which  is  visible  for  18  M.;  and  2  M.  E.  is  the  flshing-statiou 
oi  Port  au  Choix,  whence  considerably  quantities  of  codfish  and  herring 
are  exported.  The  Bay  of  St.  John  is  clotted  with  islands,  and  receive.^ 
the  River  of  Castors,  flowing  from  an  unknown  point  in  the  interior,  and 
abounding  in  salmon. 

"  What  a  region  for  romantic  excursions  I  Yonder  are  wooded  mountain.s  with  a 
sleepy  atmosphere,  and  attractive  vales,  and  a  fine  river,  the  River  Castor,  flowing 
f"om  a  country  almost  unexplored  ;  and  here  are  green  isles  spotting  the  sea,  —  the 
islands  of  St  John.  Behind  them  is  an  expanse  of  water,  alive  with  fish  and  fowl, 
the  extremes  of  which  are  lost  in  the  deep,  untroubled  wilderness.  A  nioi?th  would 
not  sufiice  to  find  out  and  enjoy  its  manifold  and  picturesque  beauties,  through 
which  wind  the  deserted  trails  of  the  Red  Indians,  now  extinct  or  banished.'' 

The  Bay  of  St.  John  is  separated  by  a  narrow  isthmus  from  St.  Mar- 
garet's Bay  (on  the  N.),  on  which  are  the  stations  of  New  FtroUe  and  Old 
Ferolle.  Beyond  the  Bays  of  St.  Genevieve  and  St.  Barbe,  with  their  few 
score  of  inhabitants,  is  Flower  Cove._  containing  a  small  hamlet  and  an 
Episcopal  church.  The  great  sealing-grounds  of  the  N.  shore  are  next 
traversed;  aiid  the  adjacent  coast  loses  its  mountainous  character,  and 
sinks  into  wide  plainti  covered  with  grass  and  wild  grain. 


"S 


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220      Route  Gl.         STRAIT  OP  BELLE  ISLE. 


,1  ■ 


i  m 


-^istH     1' 


I 


The  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

The  Strait  of  Belle  Isle  is  now  entered,  and  on  the  N.  is  the  lofty  and 
barren  shore  of  L.ibrador  (or,  if  it  be  night,  the  fixed  light  on  Point 
Amour).  As  Green  Island  is  passed,  the  Rtd  Cliffs,  on  the  Labrador  shore, 
are  seen  at  about  10  M.  distance.  'I'lie  low  limestone  elill's  of  the  New- 
foundland shore  are  now  followed  to  (he  N.  E.,  and  at  80  M.  beyond  Green 
Island,  Cape  Norman  is  reached,  with  its  revolving  light  upheld  on  the 
bleak  dreariness  of  the  spray-swept  hill.  This  cape  is  the  most  northerly 
point  of  Newfoundland. 

The  Sdcred  Iddndis  are  12  ^I.  S.  E.  l)y  E.  from  Cape  Norman,  and  soon 
after  passing  them  the  hamlet  of  Quirpon  is  approached.  This  place  is 
situated  on  Quirpon  Island,  4  degrees  N.  of  St.  .John's,  and  is  devoted  to 
the  sealing  business.  It  has  an  Episcopal  church  and  cemetery.  IMulti- 
tudes  of  seals  are  caught  otf  this  point,  in  the  great  current  which  sets 
from  the  remote  N.  into  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle.  Htmdreds  of  icebergs 
may  sometimes  be  seen  hence,  moving  in  stately  procession  up  the  strait. 
In  front  of  Quirpon  are  the  cold  highlands  of  Jaques-Cartier  Island.  Cape 
Baidd  is  the  N.  point  of  the  island  of  Quirpon,  and  the  most  northerly 
point  of  the  Province. 

14  M.  N.  of  Cape  Rauld,  and  midway  to  the  Labrador  shnrp,  is  Belle  Isle,  in  the 
entraiue  of  th«  strait.  It  is  y'j  M.  Ioiik  and  3  M.  broad,  and  is  utterly  barron  and 
unproti table.  On  its  S.  jioint  is  a  loiu'ly  lijibtbouse,  470  ft.  above  the  sea,  sustain- 
inj;  a  li.xtd  wlute  light  which  is  visible  for  28  IM.  During  the  dense  and  blinding 
pnow-stornis  that  olteu  sweep  over  the  strait,  a  eannon  is  fired  ;  '  re;;nlar  intervals  ; 
and  large  deposit.^  of  provisions  are  i<ept  Jiere  for  the  u.-e  of  ;;hipwi(  ( ked  mariners. 
IJetween  Dee.  15  and  April  1  there  is  no  light  exhibited,  for  the>e  northern  seas  are 
then  deserted,  save  by  a  few  daring  seal-liunters.  There  is  but  one  ponit  where  the 
isliind  can  be  ai)proaehed,  whieli  is  1,'.^  M.  from  the  lighthouse,  and  heie  the  stores 
are  landed.  There  is  not  a  tree  or  even  a  bush  on  the  island,  and  coal  is  imported 
from  Quebec  to  warm  the  liou.-e  of  the  keeper,  —  who,  though  vi.^ited  but  twice  a 
year,  is  haiii)y  and  contented.  The  path  from  the  landing  is  cut  through  the  moss- 
covered  roek,  and  leads  up  a  long  and  steep  ascent. 

in  the  jear  1527  ''a  Canon  of  iSt.  Paul  in  London,  which  was  a  great  mathemati- 
cian, and  a  man  indued  with  wealth,''  sailed  for  tlie  New  Worhl  with  two  shijjS, 
which  were  fitted  out  by  King  Henry  VIII.  After  they  had  gone  to  the  westward 
for  many  days,  and  had  passed  "  treat  Hands  of  Ice,"  they  reached  "  the  mayne 
land,  all  wildernesse  and  n.'  "nta  les  and  woodes,  and  no  naturall  ground  but  all 
mosse,  and  no  habitation  nor  no  people  in  these  parts."'  They  entered  the  Strait  of 
Belle  Isle,  and  then  "  there  arose  a  great  and  a  maruailous  great  storme,  and  niuch 
loul  weather,'"  during  which  the  ships  v.ere  separated.  The  captain  of  the  Mary  of 
(jiiil/ord  wrote  home  concerning  his  consort-ship:  "  1  trust  in  Almightie  Jesu  to  heaie 
good  newes  of  her";  but  no  tidings  ever  came,  and  she  was  probably  lost  in  the 
Btrait,  with  all  on  board. 

The  islands  of  Belle  Isle  and  Quirpon  were  called  the  Isles  of  Demons  in  the 
remote  past,  and  the  ancient  majjs  represent  them  as  covered  with  "  devils  ram- 
I)ant,  with  wings,  horns,  and  tails."  They  were  said  to  be  fascinating  but  malicious, 
and  Andre  Thevet  exorcised  them  from  a  band  of  stricken  Indians  by  repeating  a 
part  of  the  Gospel  of  St.  John.  The  mariners  feared  to  land  on  these  haunted 
Bhorc^s,  and  ''  when  they  passed  this  way,  they  heard  in  the  air,  on  the  tops  and 
about  the  masts,  a  great  clnmor  of  men"s  voices,  confused  and  inarticulate,  such  as 
jou  may  hear  from  the  crowd  at  a  fair  or  market-place  ;  whereupon  they  well  knew 
tb.at  the  Isle  of  Di-'nons  was  not  fur  off."  The  brave  but  superstitious  Ntirmans 
dared  not  laud  on  the  Labrador  without  the  crucifix  in  hand,  believing  that  those 
gloomy  shores  v.crc  guarded  by  great  and  terrible  griffins.    These  quaint  legends 


e  lofty  and 
it  on  Point 
ivdor  shore, 
f  the  New- 
lyond  Green 
licld  on  the 
it  northerly 

n,  mid  soon 
his  place  is 
,  devoted  to 
pry.  Multi- 
t  \vhich  sets 
of  iceberg? 
ip  the  strait. 
>land.  Cape 
)st  northerly 


Ic  Isle,  in  the 

rly  banru  and 
e  sea,  sustaiii- 
-  Uiid  blinding 
iilar  iutt  rvais ; 
lu'd  mariners, 
thern  seas  are 
onit  where  the 
icie  tlie  stores 
al  is  imported 
d  but  twice  a 
ugh  the  moss- 

lat  matheninti- 
lith  two  shij).*, 

the  wes-tward 
"  the  mayne 

'round  but  all 
Id  the  Strait  of 
|me,  and  much 

)f  the  Mary  of 
leJesu  to  heave 

ily  lost  in  the 

tnions  in  the 

"  devils  ram- 
Jbut  malicious, 
jby  repeating  a 
Itlies^e  haunted 
the  tops  and 
kilate,  such  as 
Ihcy  well  knew 
tiouH  Nermann 
[ug  that  those 
luaiut  legends 


■I 


STRAIT  OF  BELLE  ISLE.  Jioute  01.      221 


undoubtedly  had  a  good  foundation.  In  July,  1873,  the  coasts  of  the  Strait  of  Belle 
Isle  wen;  ravaged  by  bands  of  immense  wolves,  who  devoured  several  human  beings 
and  besieged  tlie  settlements  tor  weeks. 

An  ancient  MS  of  lOHti  relates  a  curious  legend  of  Belle  Isle.  Among  the  com- 
pany on  tlie  Heet  wliich  was  conducted  throngli  the  Straits  to  Quebec  in  1,042,  were 
the  l-aijy  MargU(;rite,  niece  of  the  Viceroy  of  New  Fi-ance,  and  her  lover.  Their 
conduct  was  such  as  to  have  scandalized  the  fleet,  and  when  they  retched  the  isle 
of  Demons,  Roberval,  enraged  at  lier  sliamelessne.ss,  put  her  on  shore,  with  her  old 
nur.<e.  Tlit!  lover  leaped  from  the  ship  and  joined  the  women,  and  the  licet  sailed 
away.  Tiien  the  demons  and  the  hosts  of  hell  began  their  as.«iaults  on  the  forsaken 
trio^  tearing  about  their  hut  at  nigbt,  menacing  them  on  the  shore,  and  assaulting 
them  in  tlie  forest.  Hut  the  penitent  sintu^rs  were  guarded  by  invisible  bands  of 
saints,  and  kept  from  peril.  Aft«!r  many  months,  wearied  by  these  liendish  assaults, 
the  lover  died,  and  was  soon  followed  by  the  nur.-fc  and  the  child.  Long  thereafter 
liveil  Marguerite  alone,  until  finally  a  tishing-vessel  ran  in  warily  tosvard  the  smoke 
of  her  fire,  and  rescued  her,  after  two  years  of  life  among  demons. 

From  Cape  Baiilil  the  coast  runs  S.  by  the  French  sealing-stations  of 
Grignet,  St.  Lunaire,  Braha,  and  St.  Anthony,  to  the  deep  indentation  of 
Ilnre  /Jay,  which  is  18  M.  long  and  6  M.  wide.  A  short  distance  to  the  S. 
is  the  fine  harbor  of  Croque,  a  favorite  resort  for  the  French  fleets  and  a 
coaling  station  for  the  steamers.  The  back  country  is  dismal  to  the  last 
degree. 

To  the  S.  E.  are  the  large  islands  of  Groals  (7  :<  3\  M.  in  area)and  BelloTple(9  v  6 
M.).  Running  now  to  the  S.  \V.  by  Cajie  Iloiige  and  Botitot,  Couche  Harbor  is  seen 
on  the  starboard  bow,  and  Caiiatia  Bay  is  opened  on  the  W.  This  great  bay  is 
12  M.  long,  and  is  (Mitered  through  an  intricate  passage  called  the  Narrows,  beyond 
which  it  widens  into  a  safe  and  capacious  basin.  'I'he  shores  are  .'solitary  and  de- 
serted, and  far  inland  are  seen  the  great  hill-ranges  called  The  Clouds.  7  M.  to  the 
S.  W".  is  the  entrance  to  IIoo,iiiig  Harbor,  and  5  M.  farther  S.  is  Fourchette,  12  M. 
beyond  which  is  (Jnat  Harbor  Diep,  a  long  and  narrow  estuary  with  such  a  depth 
fif  water  th:it  ve.'ssels  cannot  anchor  in  it.  This  is  at  the  \V^  entrance  of  White 
Bay,  and  is  lij  M.  from  Partridge  Point,  the  E.  entrance. 

AVIiite  Bay  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water  45  M.  long  and  10-15  M  wide.  It  is  very 
deep,  and  has  uo  islands  ex(e))t  such  as  are  close  in  shore.  The  fisheries  are  car- 
ried on  here  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  at  Cat  Cove,  Jackscn's  Arm,  Chouse 
liiook,  Wiseman's  Cove,  Seal  Cove,  and  Lobster  Harbor  are  small  settlements  of 
rc.-;ident  fishermen.  Chouse  Brook  is  situated  amid  noble  scenery  near  the  head 
of  tlie  bay,  60  M.  by  boat  from  La  Scie.  On  the  highlands  to  the  W  and  S.  of 
A\  hite  Bay  are  the  haunts  of  the  deer,  which  are  usually  entered  from  Hall's  Bay  or 
(i  reeu  Bay. 

3  M.  S.  E.  of  Partridge  Point  is  La  Fleur  de  Lis  harbor,  so  named  from 
the  simulation  of  the  royal  flower  by  a  group  of  three  hills  near  its  head. 
Running  thence  to  the  E.,  the  entrances  of  Little  Bay  and  Ming's  Bight 
open  on  the  starboard  side,  and  on  the  port  bow  are  the  St.  Barbe,  or  Horse 
Islands.  About  20  M.  from  La  Fleur  de  Lis  is  La  Scie,  the  last  settle 
nieiit  on  the  French  Shore,  with  its  three  resident  families.  A  road  leads  S. 
7  M.  frum  tliis  point  to  Shoe  Cove,  on  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame  (see  page 
211);  and  5  M.  E.  of  La  Scie  is  *  Cape  St.  John,  the  boundary  of  the 
French  Shore  on  the  Atlantic. 

"  The  Cape  is  in  full  view,  a  promontory  of  shaggy  precipices,  suggestive  of  all  the 
funds  of  I'anilemoniuni,  rather  than  the  lovely  Apostle  who.-e  iiiUne  has  be<m  gib- 

butou  ua  the  black  and  dismal  crags As  we  bear  down  toward  the  Cape,  we 

puss  Gull  Isle,  a  mere  pile  of  naked  rocks  delicately  wreathed  with  lace-like  mists, 
imagine  the  last  hundred  feet  of  Conway  Peak,  the  very  finest  of  the  New-Hampshire 
mountain-tops,  pricking  above  the  waves,  and  you  will  see  this  little  outpost  and 


■* ' 


ill 

•  'vi:: 


'^  i 


■^ 

.f-: 


i 


[i 


222      Mouie  61. 


CAPE  ST.   JOHN. 


?  '.. 


breakwater  of  Cnpe  Ft.  John.''  (Noni,E.)  The  Cape  proscnts  by  for  the  pmnrlcst 
8ct;mi\  on  till'  E.  coii-st  of  Newfoiui(lliiii(l,anil  is  an  uiilirok'.  ii  wall  ol  lilanv  nnk, 
4-5i.»0  ft.  hiyli  and  5  M.  long,  against  who.-u  iumifiliate  bast  the  tkcp  sta  ^^v^^■ps. 

"Op  the  lanpfs  of  TiAnR.\i>oR  and  Hvr  .ai.aos.  lying  AVest  ant)  NouTlI-^vEST  fuom 

K>GI,\.MiE,    AM)    lil-l.MJ,.    I'AIUK   01'    llli;    KIKM..    LA.NDi:   OF   TUK    WlSI    IMiIlS. 

"  Maii.v  h  luc  traual^M'd  to  sran-li  the  roast  of  tlie  lande  of  Lalorador,  uh  v>o11  to 
the  inlentc  to  kuowc  \w\\v.  fune  or  \\\\\  tin  r  it  rrai  lirtlif,  as  aiso  w  iietiier  tlu  re  bee 
an\  i>as.-age  by  sea  tlirouj;he  tlie  same  into  the  Sea  of  Sur  and  the  Island*  s  ol  Maiica, 
wliit  liaic  uiidt  r  the  KquiLoitiail  li.ic  ;  thinks  ngithat  the  wuNethythcrsliuldegieatly 
bet- slioitened  by  tbis  v\aj.e.  'J'lie  SjianNardes,  as  to  whose  ryght  tbe  saule  islandes  of 
f  pices  iierte,\i.v,  dul  1\  ist  ^e*•ke  to  l.\i.de  the  sane  by  tbis  way.  The  I'oi  tiigales 
also  liauynge  tbe  trade  (d  spins  in  theu"  handes,  d\ d  traiia\le  to  f>  ude  the  ^an.e : 
altlioLigli  lietlierto  neither  aii\e  sui  Iil  }a>sage  is  fonnde  or  the  ei.de  of  tbat  lande. 
]nthe\e;irea  tliousande  and  line  hundiedth,  (itu^^par  Cortesreales  made  a  v^iige 

thy  ther  v. ith  two  earauel.es  ;  but  tonnd  not  the  stie\ght  or  i)assage  lie  songht 

He  greatly  inarua,\.ed  to  lelioide  tlie  bougi  quantitie  of  snowe  and  ise  Vov  the 
f»a  is  there  fros«  n  »xud\i:gly.  Thinbal  iii.unles  are  men  of  good  coiporature,  al- 
thougli  tawny  like  the  Indiess.  and  ialioiious.  Tliev  luiNiite  tbeyr  b(id\es,  and  wearo 
biaselettes  and  lioo|ief  of  s\  luer  and  eopier.  Tbe,  r  appaiel  is  made  of  the  >k\  nnes 
of  niarternes  and  d\  vc  rs  othi  r  beju-te- ,  u  hit  he  they  weaie  ssitli  the  heare  inwarde  in 
wynter,  and  outwaide  ill  Mon.n  er.  'J'hi-  appaiell  th«'}  gvrde  to  th(\r  bodu's  with 
gyrdete  mad(^  of  cotton  or  the  syiie\\»'s  of  f\  s>lies  and  beastes.  They  eate  f\sslie 
more  than  any  other  tliMij^e.  aid  ojecially  »;liiions,  althonghe  the}  have  lonles 
and  frute.  They  ii.ake  tiu\  r  lionfes  ot  timl  er,  whereof  they  haue  great  plentie : 
and  in  the  stiade  :  f  tyles,  (ouer  them  witli  the  skjimes  of  fysshes  and  biastes  It 
is  said  also  fiiat  there  are  giifcs  in  this  land;  and  that  the  1  eares  and  n  any  other 
beastes  and  foiiles  are  white.  'Jo  this  ai.d  the  isiai.de.- aloute  the  san.e,  the  liiitons 
are  accustomed  to  re' orte  :  as  n.en  of  nature  agredible  viito  them,  and  lorn  vi.der 
the  .«ame  altitude  and  ten  jurat ure.  'i  he  Norway s  al>o  sa\ltd  tliUlier  with  the 
pylot  cauJed  .John  Seohio  :  and  the  Ei:gl\she  n  en  with  Ht  bastian  ("at.ot. 

"  The  coasts  of  the  laiule  <d  llacca.aos  is  a  gieiite  tuute,  and  the  altitude  thereof 
is  xh'iii  degrees  and  a  halfe.  .'"cbi.stian  t'al  ot  vas  tbetjrst  that  biowght  any  knowi- 
eagi'  of  this  land.  For  1  eing  in  Englande  i'l  the  dases  of  Ivyng  lienrj  the  ircuenth, 
he  furnyslicd  two  sliippes  at  lii  owi.e  ( lunges  or  (as  son  e  sa\ )  at  the  k\  nges,  w horn 
he  persuaded  that  a  passagi'  might  bie  found  to  I'athay  by  the  North  .Sea-,  and  that 
spices  myglit  bee  browght  from  thuise  soi.er  by  that  waj  ,  then  by  the  vuige  the 
Poriugales  vse  by  the  Sea  of  t^ur.  lie  went  aiso  to  knowe  what  maner  of  lamtes 
those  Indies  were  to  inliabite.  He  had  withe  hyui  800  men,  and  directed  liis  course 
by  the  tracte  of  islande  uppon  the  Cape  of  Ijatajrador  at  Iviii  degrees  :  afhrmynge 
that  in  the  nionethe  of  July  there  was  such  could  and  heap*  sot  i.-e  that  he  tluist 
pf>  r-e  no  further:  also  that  the  dayes  were  very  longe,  and  in  maner  withowt  nsght, 
an  I  the  nyghtes  very  eleare.  Ceiteync  it  is,  that  at  the  Ix  degrees,  the  longest  day 
is  of  xviii  houres.  iiut  (onsyderynge  the  couide  and  the  straungeness  of  the  un- 
knowne  lande,  he  turned  his  <'oui>e  from  thense  to  the  West,  folowynge  the  coast 
of  the  land  of  Haccalaos  vnto  the  xxxviii  degrees,  from  whense  he  returned  to  Eng- 
lande.  To  conclude,  the  lirytons  and  D.ines  have  sayled  to  the  Baecaiaos  ;  and 
Jacques  Cartier,  a  Frenchman,  was  there  twyse  with  three  galeons. 

"  Of  these  lands  Jaeolms  lla.-taldus  wrytetli  thus:  '  The  New  e  land  of  Baecaiaos 
is  a  eoulde  region,  who.-v'  inhabytauntes  are  idolatours,  and  pra^e  to  the  soone  and 
inoone  and  dyvers  idoles.  They  are  whyte  people,  and  very  rustiial.  For  they  eate 
tiesshe  and  iysslie  and  all  other  thynges  rawe.  Suiutymes  also  they  eate  mans 
fiesshe  priuilye,  .';o  that  theyr  Caciqni  have  no  knowleage  thereof.  The  appareil  of 
both  the  men  and  women  is  made  of  beares  skynnes,  altliough  tlie.\  liave  sables  and 
niarternes,  not  greatly  esteemetl  because  they  are  lyttle.     Some  of  tliem  go  naked  in 

soomer.  and  weare  apjiarell  only  in  wynter N'orthwarde  from  the  region  of 

Bacealaos  is  the  land  of  haborador,  all  full  of  mountiiynes  and  great  woodes,  in  w  hiche 
are  nianye  beares  and  w\\  Ide  boares.  Tniiihabitaunte<  are  idolatoures  and  warlike 
people,  apparelled  as  are  they  of  15a(  calaos.  In  all  this  newe  lande  is  ueyther  citie 
or  castell,  but  they  lyve  in  companies  Ijke  heardeb  of  beastes.'  " 


le  pmndcst 

iiliu-K  r(Hk, 

11  ft\VlL'l)8. 


-\S-EST  FUOM 

•,  us  v«'U  to 
er  tlnre  Leu 
>  dl  Mii.uca, 

.ulilfgic'iitly 

f  i^lillul(!S  of 

(■  I'oitiigales 
,e  the  niii;e; 
[•  tliut  iuiidc. 
mk'  a  v^igo 

■ought 

sc      l''or  the 
jiorature,  ul- 
'?.,  and  NM'uro 
thi-  !-k\iii.t!8 
i«;  hnwilili'  ill 
liO(l\i's  \sith 
■y  cuU"  fv  ^sho 
)  have  Iduk'S 
ri'at  pl*'"ti»' : 
i  hiastis      It 
I  11  aii.v  otlier 
.',  tlie  IJiifons 
X  lorn  vi.dfF 
hev  with  tlie 
)t. 

litudc  thereof 
It  any  ki.osvl- 
the  !»iiunth, 
\  I'gfs,  whom 
\{n-,  and  tliat 
lu'  vuige  the 
iier  of  laiulc'8 
lid  his  eourfO 
:  afliruiyuge 
hat  he  durst 
thowtiixglit, 
le  longest  day 
ss  of  tlie  un- 
|igL'  tlie  coast 
rned  to  Eng- 
cealaos  ;  and 

of  Baccalaos 
llie  st.ione  and 
;"or  they  eate 
ty  eate  niaus 
lie  apparell  of 
Ive  sal)les  and 
]i  go  naked  in 
[lie  region  of 
lies,  in  w  hiche 
Is  and  svarlike 
jueyther  citie 


LABEADOR 


Is  the  (Trent  ponin'^ulfir  portion  of  North  .\mericca  wliicli  lies  to  the  N.  and 
N.  VV.  of  Newfoumlli.nd,  and  is  limited  by  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  the 
ocean,  and  Hudson's  IJay.  It  extends  from  about  50^'  N.  latitude  (o  00  ', 
and  the  (diinate  is  extremely  rifjorous,  the  mep.n  temperature  at  Nain 
beinjj  32'  ''i'.  The  land  is  covered  wirli  low  mountains  and  barren  plateaus, 
on  which  are  vast  plai.is  of  moss  interspersed  with  rocks  and  bowlders. 
There  are  no  fon^sts,  and  the  inland  i-eujion  is  dotted  with  lakes  and 
swamps.  There  are  reindeer,  bears,  foxe?*,  wolves,  suid  smaller  game; 
but  their  number  is  small  and  decreasiuf;;.  Tlie  rivers  iind  lakes  swarm 
■with  fish,  and  the  whole  coast  i-  famous  for  its  valualile  fisheries  of  cod 
and  salmon.  At  least  1,000  decked  vessels  are  eng'af!;ed  in  the  Labra- 
dor fisheries,  and  other  fleets  are  devoted  to  the  pursuit  of  seals.  The 
commercial  establishments  here  are  coimected  with  the  irreat  firms  of 
Eiioiand  and  the  Channel  Islands.  The  Esquimaux  population  is  steadily 
dwindling  away,  and  probably  consists  of  4,000  souls. 

"The  coast  of  Labrador  is  the  edge  of  a  vast  solitude  of  rocky  hills,  split  and 
blasted  by  the  fronts,  and  beaten  l)y  the  waves  of  the  Atlantic,  for  unknown  ages. 
Every  form  into  which  rocks  can  be  washed  and  broken  is  visible  along  its  alrnopfc 
interminable  shores.  A  grand  heaiilind,  yellow,  brown,  and  black,  in  its  horrid 
naketbiess,  is  ever  in  sight,  oik;  to  the  north  of  you,  one  to  the  south  Here  and  there 
u|)on  them  are  striites  aiKl  p:i'ches  of  pile  gre<!n,  —  mosses,  lean  trris^o*,  and  (hvarf 
shrubbery.  Occasionally,  miles  of  precipis  e  front  the  sea,  in  w''  li  the  ftncy  may 
roughly  shape  all  the  structures  of  human  art.  — casthis.  jialaces,  and  tcmjilcs.  Im- 
ngiiie  an  entire  si  ie  of  Hroa^lvay  \n\vd  n]i  solidlv,  one,  two  three  hundred  feet  in 
height,  often  more,  and  exposeil  to  the  charge  of  the  great  Atlantic  rollers,  rush- 
ing into  the  churches,  halls,  ami  sjmcious  liuildings,  thundering  through  the  door- 
ways, dashing  in  at  the  wiiido.vs,  swcejjing  up  tlie  lofty  fronts,  twisting  the  very 
cornices  with  silvery  s])ray,  filling  back  'i  bright  green  scrolls  and  cascades  of  sil- 
very foan,  ;  and  yet,  all  this  imagined,  can  never  rea'-b  the  sentiment  of  these 
precii)ices.  "Sloro  fref|ueiit  than  lieadlinds  and  perjieni  "Mlar  sea-fronts  are  •■'  l' 
sei-slopes,  often  bald,  tame,  and  wearisome  to  the  (>\e,  now  ind  flien  the  perfect;  »; 
of  all  that  is  picturesijae  and  routrl',  —  a  precipice  gone  to  pieces,  its  softer  [lOr- 
tions  dissolved  dov.ii  to  its  roots,  its  Hiiity  bones  left  standing,  a  savage  scene  that 

scares  awy  all  thoughts  of  order  and  de<i£rn  in  nature This  is  the  ro-y  tiino 

of  L  '.fador  (.Inly).  The  blue  interior  hills,  and  the  stony  vales  that  wind  up 
among  them  from  tiie  sea,  liave  a  summer-like  and  pleasant  air.  T  find  rnvself 
lieo|i1inir  these  regions,  and  dotting  their  hills,  valleys,  and  wild  shores  with  human 
bahitations.  A  second  thought  — and  a  mournful  one  it  is  —  tells  nie  that  no  men 
toil  in  tlie  fields  away  there  ,  no  women  keep  the  house  off  there  ;  there  no  childn>n 
play  bv  the  brooks  or  shout  around  the  country  scb.ool-house  ;  no  bee>'  come  home 
to  t!io  liive  ;  no  smoke  curls  from  the  farm-house  chimney  ;  no  orch.ard  blooms  ; 
no  lileatinir  slie(>p  flee  k  the  mountain-sides  with  whiteness,  and  no  heifer  lows  in 
the  twilight.    There  is  noboly  there ;  tliere  never  was  but  a  nn.seruble  and  scat- 


■  in 


m 


p 


la 


(  ■     V,  < 


■  i-li 


m 


>(: 


I 


»f?l 


l-^M 


I 


!f< 


,.■ 


I.' 


:   ,11.   *<. 


l[^? 


If 


224      iiaw^e  Gt 


BATJ  LE  HARBOB. 


tered  few,  a/^?  'h^rf  never  will  be.  It  is  a  gre.it  and  terrible  wilderness  of  »»,  thou- 
caud  miles,  ui  i  luae-ouif  to  Hie  very  wild  auiniaLs  and  birds.  Lett  to  the  still  vis- 
itation of  the  ligiit  t'ruai  tliu  sun,  moon,  ami  stars,  and  tlio  auroral  fi,i  •'  ir  i ;  ouiy 
lit  to  look  upon  and  t'lm  be  givt-n  over  to  its  iniiiii'val  soiitarinest-  But  1'ui  tho 
living  tiling- of  its  wiiters,  —  tlie  cod,  die  siiiiuoii,  and  tin.- >cal,  —  vM>ich  oring  t.ion- 
sands  ot  adventurous  li>liermeu  and  trader.^  to  its  bieiik  sUores,  Labsadc  svuiild  ba 
as  desolate  as  (jrceiilund. 

"  For  a  ffw  days  tlie  wooHv  tiocks  of  New  England  would  tliriv*;  in  Labrador. 
Luring  these  frw  days  tUere  u.u  tnou-aiids  of  her  liiii'  daugi,;i'rs  wn  .  vwuild  ,ove  t-: 
tend  tiiem.  1  proijliesy  tlie  time  is  cuiuiiig  woer  tiie  invaiii  and  tourist  fro.n  clie 
Statis  will  be  often  found  spending  tli<;  brief  but  Inv  1.,  summ-":"  here,  s  vtwitastaud- 
ing  its  ruggedness  and  desolation  "   (ivi^v    L.  L.  Aunis:) 

''  U'iliJ  are  tiie  waves  wliieh  lash  the  reisfs  along  St.  viiiorge's  bank  ; 


••.',! 


on  the  coa.st  of  l^abrador  the  tog  lies  white  and  duik  ; 


Through  storm,  and  wave,  and  l.limiing  mist,  stout  are  vie  hetirts  which  mun 
The  l;shing-smacks  of  Marblehead,  the  .><  i-boats  oi  Cape  Ann, 

"  Tli<^  vold  north  light  and  wintry  sun  glare  on  their  icy  fo 'm.*, 
T.'.nn  grimly  o'(-r  rhinr  straiiiing  lines,  or  wrestling  with  riie  storms  ; 
Free  a';  ihe  wiiv*..-  Uiioy  flrivc  ))efore,  rough  as  the  wuvos  tliey  roam, 
Tiiey  lou^h  to  i'  jr?'.  tb»  slavers  l.'.i-vMt  against  their  rocky  home." 

JouN  G.  Whittier. 

63.  The  AtlantK'  C'.>ast  of  Labrador,  to  the  Moravian  Mis- 
sions and  Greenland. 

The  nail-steamer  leaves  Battle  Harbor  fortnightly  during  the  summer  (sec  page 
200,  fcr  distances). 

Battle  Harbor  is  a  shelterfd  roadstead  between  the  Battl-^  Ishiiids  and 
Great  Cariboi.i  Island,  ^  M.  long  tind  quite  narrow.  It  is  a  great  re.sort  for 
fi'^iicrmen,  wliose  vessels  cro^\d  the  harbor  and  are  moored  to  the  bold 
rocky  shores.  Small  houses  and  «t;iges  occupy  every  poiid  along  the 
pidt;,-  of  the  roadstead,  and  the  place  is  very  lively  during  the  fishing  sea- 
Fon.  On  the  W.  is  Great  Caribou  Island,  which  is  9  JI.  around,  and  the 
fiteep-shored  R.  E.  Battle  Island  is  the  easternmost  land  of  the  Labrador 
<^oast.  The  water  is  of  great  depth  in  this  vicirity,  and  is  noted  for  its 
wonderful  ground-swell,  which  sometimes  sweeps  into  St.  Lewis  Sound  in 
lines  of  Immense  wave?  during  the  calmest  days  of  autumn,  dashing  high 
over  the  islets  and  lodges.  An  Episcopal  church  and  cemetery  were  con- 
secrat?d  here  by  Bishop  Eield  in  18r)0,  and  the  nephew  of  Wordsworth 
(the  poet)  was  for  some  years  its  rector.  The  first  Esquimaux  convert 
wii'i  bapti/.ed  in  1857. 

yox  Harbor  is  .3-4  hours'   sail  from    Battle  I.=;land,  acr 
Sound,  and  is  an  Esquimiuix  village  v.'ith  igloes,  kayaks,  n' 
things  pertaining  to  this  unique  people      There  is  a  whar' 
the  narrov^'  harbor  (whicl      seml)les  a  mountnin-lak.    ,  '' 


-■=>.    St.   Lewis 

•ier  curious 

,       3cting  into 

he  houses  are 


clustered  about  a  liumb 


le  Episcopal  cliurch. 


"  rar11>ou  Tsland  fronts  to  the  N.  on  the  bay  5-0  Vi  ,  i  ^' 
a  ruffged  moinitaiii-inle  of  dark  gray  rock,  rounded  in  its  upj*''!  ■. 
nlnng  its  sll't^s  with.  .'ibriMtt  cliasiiis,      It   ilr'     «    ^I'ort   o!f,  at   .r? 
into  a  nfirrow  gulf  ot'd(>ep  wiiter.    This  is  T^nttle  Hirbor.    The  bill 
rofk.  perhaps  250  ft  hiirh,  lying  between  this  fpiiet  water  *ind  th 


"uld  think,  and  is 

1.  s  .-"s.  and  slashed 

pr.».  yu  pxtveioit V- 

I   ■  •  ,  lie  of  iirneous 

1  Atlantic,  is 


Battle  Island,  and  the  site  of  the  town. 


At  this  moL.ent  (Jv...  ,  die  rocky  isle, 


SANDWICH  P.^Y. 


Rmite  62.      225 


of  **■  thou- 

iie  still  vis- 

r.  ir  is  i>uiy 
iut  iu»  H'« 
.'liu'j;  t.ioa- 
>  v,ui.iid  ba 

I  Labitulor. 

t  t'ro.ii  die 
iwitastuud- 


vhich  man 


AVhittier. 

rian  Mis- 

(ler  (see  page 

Ivlands  and 
it  resort  for 
to  the  bold 
r  ulon<T;  the 
Ifi^hing  pca- 
nd,  and  the 
jC  Labrador 
loted  for  its 
is;  Sound  in 
shing  high 
were  con- 
IVord?  worth 
ux  convert 

St.   Le\vi.=i 

l.or  curious 

?cting  into 

houses  are 


[liink,  and  is 
and  slashed 

111  px+vpMiityi 

llo  of  iirnpous 
1  Atlantic,  is 

k>  rocky  isle, 


I 


bombarded  by  the  ocean,  and  flayed  by  the  -  word  of  the  blast  formontha  in  the 
year,  is  a  little  punidi-se  of  heaiity.  Tliere  ar  fields  of  mossy  cn-p.-t  that  sinks  be- 
neath the  foot,  with  bids  of  such  delicate  f  owors  as  one  seldou.  ^ees.  .  ,  I  liave 
never  S'ien  such  fairy  loveliness  as  I  find  'lere  upon  tliis  bleak  islet,  wliere  nature 
geeniS  to  have  been  pla\iug  at  Switzerla-id.  (jreeu  and  >ellow  musses,  ankle-deep 
and  spotted  witli  blood-red  stains,  carpet  the  cra>rs  and  little  vales  and  cradle-like 
hoili>tvs.  Wonderful  to  behold  I  tlowers  pink  and  wliite.  yellow,  red,  and  blue,  are 
countless  as  dew-drops,  and  breathe  out  upon  the  i>ure  air  their  otlor,  so  si>irit-like. 
....  Little  gort^es  and  chasms,  overliung  with  miniature  prec  ipices,  wind  gracefully 
from  the  sumn.its  down  to  meet  the  wavts,  and  are  filled,  where  the  sun  can  waini 
them,  with  all  bloom  and  sweetness,  a  kind  of  wild  greenhouse." 

The  course  is  laid  from  Battle  Harbor  N.  across  St.  Lewis  Sounrl,  which 
is  4  M.  wide  and  10  M.  deep  (to  Fly  Island,  beyond  which  is  the  St.  Lewis 
River,  which  contains  myriads  of  salmon).  Passing  the  dark  and  rugged 
hills  (500  ft.  high)  of  Cape  St.  Lewis,  the  steamer  soon  reaches  the  small 
but  secure  haven  of  Spear  Harbor^  where  a  short  stop  is  made.  The  next 
port  is  at  St.  Francis  Harbor^  which  is  on  Granby  Island,  in  the  estunry 
of  the  deep  and  navigable  Alexis  River.  An  Episcopal  church  is  located 
here.  In  this  vicinity  are  several  precipitous  insulated  mcks,  rising  from 
the  deep  sea.  The  harbor  is  ^  i\L  VV.  of  Cape  St.  Francis,  and  is  deep  and 
well  protected,  being  also  a  favorite  resort  for  the  tlshing  fleets. 

Caj^e  St.  Michael  is  next  seen  on  the  W.,  11  AI.  above  Caj)e  St.  Francis, 
with  its  mountainous  promontory  slieltering  an  island-studded  bay.  Be- 
yond the  dark  and  rugged  Square  Island  is  the  mail-port  of  Dead  Island. 
Crossing  now  the  mouth  of  St.  Michael's  Bay,  and  pa<;sing  Cape  Bkiff 
(which  maybe  seen  for  50  JL  at  sea),  the  steamer  next  stops  between 
Venison  Island  and  the  gloomy  cliffs  beyond.  Kunning  next  to  the  N., 
on  the  outside  of  a  great  archipelago,  the  higlilands  of  PartriUj,'^  Bay  are 
slowly  passed. 

The  Seal  Islands  are  24  ]\I.  X.  E  of  Cape  St.  Michael,  and  18  I\I.  beyond 
is  Spotted  Island,  distinguished  by  several  white  spots  on  its  lofty  dark 
clilTs.  To  the  E.  is  the  -rreat  Island  of  Ponds,  near  which  is  Batteav.  Har- 
bor, a  mail-port  at  which  a  call  is  made.  The  next  station  is  at  Indian 
Tickle,  which  is  a  narrow  roadstead  betAveen  Indian  Island  and  the  high- 
lands of  Mulgrave  Land.  Stopping  next  at  S.  E.  Cove,  the  course- is  laid 
from  thence  to  Indian  Harbor,  on  the  W.  side  of  Huntington  Island.  This 
island  i'  7  "*!.  lonj,  and  .-  i.elters  the  entrance  to  Sandwich  Bay  (the  Esqui- 
miwxx  N':^'act«he\  A\h'/'h  is  6-9  M.  wide  and  54  ^L  deep,  with  13-40 
fathor  -  of  water.  There  .ire  many  Picturesque  islands  in  this  bay,  and  on 
the  N.  shore  are  the  ]\Iealy  Mts.,  rer  ',iing  an  altitude  of  1,48?  ft.  On  the 
W.  side  are  Eagle  and  West  Rivers,  tilled  with  salmon;  and  East  River 
runs  into  the  bottom  of  tlie  bay,  coming  from  a  large  lake  where  immense 
numbers  of  salmon,  trout,  and  pike  may  br  found.  4  ]\1.  from  tlie  mouth 
of  East  River  is  the  small  settleme»it  q^  Paradise. 

At  trie  hp:i'!  of  this  great  bay  are  The.  Nnrrmcs.  with  Mount  Nat  and  its  bold 
foothills  OT  i-  '.  "  On  either  side  hills  towerca  '.  >  the  ueisrht  t,i  a  thousand  feet, 
wooded  wit;     ;jt  a-.c  frim  base  to  summit,  and  these  twiii  escrrpments  abutted  ranges 


I*  I'*' 


i*  i 


Ml 

■m 


m 


i .      \ 

'm 

■  \m 

' 

to*' 


'  >  )i 


226       Route  C2.         MORAVIAN  MISSIONS. 


te-;  :.  : 


I  ii^ 


of  boM  bluffs  whoso  shadows  seomod  almost  to  mt-et  midway  in  the  narrow  channel 
that  sfpaiJiti'd  thciii.  Tliroujrii  this  jrr.iiid  trlo'uny  portiil  thpro  .vas  ati  imbrokeii 
vista  t)ir  miles,  until  the  rhaiiiicl  iiiadt^  an  al)i'U|it  turn  that  hid  tli*>  water  t'loui 
view:  but  tlici^HMt  K'"'K«'  coutinui'd  on  licutud  till  it  wa.s  lost  in  blue  Mhadow."' 
On  the  N  >liore  of  the  N.iirows  is  the  Hudson'^  Has  ('ouii»auy'ft  po.stotltljjolelte, 
occupying  the  .»ite  of  an  older  French  trading-station.  At  the  head  of  the  NarrowH 
l.s  .»ieivi;'e  Lake,  a  j^n.'at  inland  hea,  ail  along  whose  S.  siiore  are  the  weird  and  won- 
derful volcai.C  jieaksofthe  lofty  Mealy  M'.uiitMins,  I'^O  M.  S.  W.  of  Kijrolette,  by 
this  route,  is  the  11  U.  Coinpauy'.s  po>t  of  N«»i-\v«Ht,  situated  n  little  way  up  the 
N  \V.  River,  near  threat  spruo.'  forests.  This  is  the  c.irf  tra  lin^-post  of  the  .>loun- 
taineers,  a  tribe  of  the  great  (,'re<!  nation  of  the  \Ve^t,  and  a  tall,  graceful,  and  >-))ir- 
ited  people  In  1S4(J  they  first  opened  eouuuunicatiou  with  the  whites.  It  was  this 
tribe,  which,  issuing  from  the  interior  highlands  in  resistless  forays,  nearly  exter- 
minated the  l';s(|uiniaux  of  the  coast  8(l()  .M.  from  Fort  Norwest  is  t'ort  Xnsro/iie^ 
situated  on  the  Heights  of  Land,  far  in  the  dark  and  solitary  interior  In  that  vicin- 
ity are  the  Graiiil  Falls,  which  the  I'Dyaneurs  claim  are  1,(100  ft.  high,  but  Factor 
M'ljean  sr.ys  are4n0  ft.  liigh,  —  and  below  them  the  broad  river  Hashes  ilown  through 
a  canon  800  ft.  deep,  for  over  30  M.  300  M.  from  Fort  N'ascopie  are  the  shoiv.s  of 
Jngav.i  Hay.  (The  Ksquimaux-Uay  district  is  well  described  iu  uu  article  by  Charlea 
Ilallock,  Harper's  Magazine,  Vol.  XXll.) 

The  Moravians  .state  that  tlie  E.squimaux  are  a  proud  and  enterprising  people,  low 
in  Stat im.',  with  coar.se  features,  smidl  hands  and  feet,  and  black  wiry  hair.  The 
men  are  expert  in  ti.shii-g,  catching  .^eal.s  and  managing  the  light  and  graceful  boat 
called  the  kuijdk,  which  outrides  the  ru  lest  surges  of  tae  sea;  while  thy  women  are 
eki.ful  in  making  giirmeuts  from  ^kins.  Agriculture  is  impo.ssible,  becau.se  the 
country  is  covered  with  snow  and  lie  for  a  great  part  of  the  year.  They  call  them- 
selves Inniiils  ("num"),  the  term  Es'/iiiiHitiix  (meaning  "eaters  of  raw  tlesh  ") 
being  applied  to  them  by  the  hostile  tribes  to  the  W.  On  the  r)00  M.  of  the  Atlantic 
coast  of  Labrador  there  are  a'nuit  1,0(K>  of  these  people,  most  of  whom  have  l)een 
converted  by  the  Moravians.  They  live  about  the  missions  in  winter,  and  as.semble 
from  the  remotest  points  to  celebrate  the  mysteries  of  t\u'  Passion  Week  in  the 
churches.  They  were  heathens  and  demon-worshii»|iers  until  1770,  when  the  Mora- 
vian Hrethren  occupied  the  coast  under  permission  of  the  Hritish  Crown  They  were 
formerly  inuch  more  numerous,  but  have  been  reduced  by  long  wars  with  the 
Mountaineers  of  the  interior  ami  by  the  rav:iges  of  the  small-pox.  The  i>ractice  of 
polygamy  has  ceased  among  tlie  tribes,  and  their  mairiages  are  celebi'ied  by  the 
Moravian  ritual.  The  missionaries  do  considerable  trading  with  the  iudians,  and 
keep  magazines  of  provisions  at  their  villages,  from  nhich  the  natives  are  freely  fed 
durmg  seasons  of  fandne.  At  each  station  are  a  iluirch,  a  store,  a  mission-house, 
and  shops  and  warm  huts  for  the  converted  and  civilized  Ks(iuiuiaux,  who  are  fast 
learning  the  mechanic  arts.  The  .Moravian  mission-ship  makes  a  yearly  visit  to  the 
Labrador  station,  replenishing  the  supplies  and  carrying  away  cargoes  of  furs. 

Hopedaie  is  300  M.  N.  W.  of  the  Strait  of  Helle  Isle,  and  is  one  of  the 
chief  Moravian  missions  on  the  Labrador  coast.  It  was  founded  in  1782  by  the  en- 
voys of  the  cliurch,  and  has  grown  to  be  a  centre  of  civilizing  influences  on  tliis 
dreary  coast.  Its  last  statistics  claim  for  it  35  hou.ses,  with  4G  fandlies  and  248  per- 
sons ;  49  boats  and  4'J  kayaks;  and  a  church  containing  74  conunuuicauts  and  85 
bajitized  children.  The  mean  annual  temperature  here  is  21°  82'.  The  church  is  a 
neat  plain  building,  where  the  men  and  women  occupy  opposite  sides,  and  Uermaa 
b.snins  are  sung  to  the  accompaniment  of  the  violin. 

JNaiii  is  about  80  M.  N.  W.  of  Hopedale,  and  has  about  300  inhabitants,  of  whom 
95  are  conununicants  and  94  are  baptized  children.  It  was  founded  by  three  Mora- 
vians in  1771,  and  occupies  a  beautiful  jiosition,  facing  the  ocean  from  Uie  bottom 
of  a  narrow  haven.  It  is  in  57°  N.  latitude  (same  latitude  as  the  Hebrides),  and  tne 
thermometer  sometimes  nuirks  75°  in  sunnner.  while  spirits  freeze  in  the  iivtenseco.d 
of  winter.  0^^•rt^•  is  about  120  .M  N.  \V  of  Nain,  towards  Hudson  Strait,  and  is  a 
very  successful  mission  which  dates  from  1776.  The  station  oi Htbronis ntWi  farther 
up  the  coast,  and  has  about  300  inhabitants. 

Fur  away  to  the  N.  E.,  across  the  broad  openuigs  of  Davis  Strait,  is 
Cape  Desolation,  in  Greenland,  near  the  bettlements  of  Julianshaab. 


•hannel 

ihriikeii 
I'V  tVttiii 
lailow.*' 

Siinowrt 
ml  won- 
»!tte,  by 
,■  \\\)  the 
i  Mmui- 
lul  s))ir- 
wiis  tliia 

IV  CXtlT- 

lilt  vkiu- 
it  Factor 
throut?h 
hoivs  of 
y  Char  lea 


>opl(',low 
iiir.     Tlie 
■etui  lioiit 
omen  are 
pause  the 
all  theni- 
,v  tlesir) 
c  Atlantic 
iiuve  been 
assemble 
|ek  in  the 
the  Mora- 
ti'iiey  were 
with  the 
Iractiee  of 
|eil  by  the 
ians,  and 
freely  fed 
Ion-house, 
|o  are  fast 
it  to  the 
liirs. 

K"  of  the 
|)y  the  en- 
s  on  this 
Id  248  per- 
ts  and  85 
Ihunh  is  a 
Id  Uermaa 

of  whom 
lute  Mora- 
lie  bottom 
]),  and  tne 
I  tense  CO. d 

and  is  a 
\m  farther 

I  Strait,  is 
iaab. 


CHATEAU   BAY. 


Route  63.      227 


63.   The  Labrador  Coast  of  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

At  Battle  Harbor  the  Northern  Coastal  steamer  connects  with  the 
Labrador  mall-boat,  which  proceeds  S.  W.  across  the  mouth  ol"  St.  Charles 
Channel,  and  touches  at  Cape  (,'harles,  or  St.  Charles  //(U-tor,  entering  be- 
tween Kishtlake  anil  lilackbill  Islands.  This  harbor  is  deep  and  secure 
(tliough  small),  and  is  a  tavoriie  resort  for  the  fishermen.  As  the  steamer 
passes  the  Cape,  the  round  hill  of  St.  Charles  may  be  seen  about  1  M. 
inland,  and  is  noticeable  as  the  loftiest  highland  in  this  district.  Niger 
Sound  and  the  Camp  Islands  (250-300  ft.  high)  are  next  passed,  and  a 
landing  is  made  at  Cliininejj  Tickle.  1^  M.  S,  W.  of  the  Camp  Islands  is 
Torrent  Point,  beyond  which  the  vessel  passes  Table  Head,  a  very  pic- 
turesque headland,  well  isolated,  and  with  a  level  top  and  precipitous 
sides.  It  is  200  ft.  high,  and  is  chiefly  composed  of  symmetrical  columns 
of  basalt.  To  the  S.  are  the  barren  rocks  of  the  Peterel  Isles  and  St. 
Peter's  Isles,  giving  shelter  to  St.  Peter's  Bay.  In  the  S.  E.  may  be  seen 
the  dim  lines  of  the  (iistinit  coast  of  Belle  Isle.  On  the  N.  is  the  bold 
promontory  of  Sandwich  Head.  The  deep  and  narrow  Chateau  Bay  now 
opens  to  the  N.  W.,  guarded  by  the  cliffs  of  York  Point  (1.)  and  Chateau 
Point  (on  Castle  Island,  to  the  r.),  and  the  steamer  ascends  its  tranquil 
sheet.  Within  is  the  noble  fiord  of  Temple  Bay,  5  M.  long,  and  hnod  by 
lofty  highlands,  approached  through  the  Temple  Pass.  On  the  r.  is 
ridge  of  the  High  Beacon  (959  (i.).  Chateau  is  a  small  n:irmanent  village, 
with  a  church  and  a  large  area  offish-stages.  In  the  autumn  and  winter 
its  inhabitants  retire  into  the  back  country,  for  the  sake  of  the  fuel  which 
is  afforded  b\'  the  distant  forests.  The  port  and  harbor  are  named  for  the 
remarkable  rocks  at  the  entrance.  There  are  fine  trouting-streams  up 
Temple  Bay;  and  vast  numbers  of  curlews  visit  the  islands  in  August. 

"  This  castle  is  a  most  remarkable  pile  of  basaltic  rock,  rising  in  vertical  columns 
fioni  an  insulated  bed  of  firanite.  Its  height  from  the  level  of  the  ocean  is  upward 
of  LOO  ft.  It  is  composed  of  regular  five-sided  prisms,  and  on  all  sides  the  tround  is 
strewn  with  single  bltuksanu  clusters  that  have  become  detached  and  i  i  ..om 
tliiir  places.  ...  [It  |  ^eemed  like  some  grim  fortress  of  the  feudal  ii^es,  froai  wliose 
end)rasures  big-nioutlietl  cannon  were  ready  to  belch  forth  Hanieand  smoke.  On  the 
very  verge  of  the  parapet  across  stood  out  in  bold  relief  in  the  gleandng  moonlight, 
iike  a  sentinel  upon  his  watch-tower."    (II.\llock,  describing  Castle  Island.) 

Chateau  was  formerly  considered  the  key  of  the  northern  fisheries,  and  its  pos- 
session was  hotl}  contested  by  the  Eiigli>h  and  French.  At  the  time  of  the  de- 
p()])ulation  of  Acadia  a  ntnnbcr  of  its  jjeople  tied  hither  and  established  a  strong 
tditress.  This  wwk  still  remains,  and  consists  of  a  bastioned  star-fort  in  masonry, 
Willi  gun-pl..  •  ',  magazines,  find  bloc k-houses,  surrounded  by  a  deep  fosse,  be- 
jor.d  uiiicli^'  ■  jarthwoiks  and  lines  of  stockades.  ]t  was  abandoned  in  1753, 
ai.d  is  now  ov,  rgrown  v.itli  thickets.  In  1703  a  British  garrison  was  located  at 
Chateau,  in  order  to  protec  t  the  fisheries,  but  the  place  was  captured  in  1778  by  the 
Aneiiran  privateer  JMinrmi,  and  3  vessels  and  £7'',0ll0  worth  of  property  were 
carried  awa.\  as  prizes.  In  179i)  the  post  was  again  attacked  by  v.  Frtnch  fleet.  A 
!o!!g  bonibrini  lent  ensued  tietween  the  frigates  and  the  shore-batteries,  and  it  was 
not  until  their  inuim  Mtion  was  exhausted  that  the  British  troops  retreated  into  the 
back  country.  .  Uer  having  burnt  the  village.  In  1535  the  French  exploring  fleet 
under  the  command  of  Jaques  Crrtier  aseemblc  '  'lere. 


il 
-mi 


V 


m 


m 


■^^ 


j^ ■ 


228      Route  GS.       STRAIT  OF  BELLE  ISLE. 


•i. 
>  ■  • 


V      .■•■ 


ix 


I     ^ 


\    I' 


After  emerginjT  from  Chnteau  Bay,  the  course  Is  laid  nround  York 
Point,  and  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle  is  entered  (with  Belle  Nie  itself  18 
M.  K.).  The  Liihnidor  const  i^  i^ow  luUowod  lor  iil)out  !■>  M.,  with  tlie 
stern  front  of  its  frownii',,  d  •^i  _;litly  indenteil  by  the  insecure  iiaveus 
of  Wreck,  Barjfe,  n.id  Vjirr  i  .1.  Bays.  Saddle  Island  is  now  seen,  w  th 
its  two  rounded  hill  ,  md  the  steamer  glides  into  Iit;d  Buy,  an  excellent 
refuge  in  whose  inner  harbor  vessels  sometimes  winter.  Large;  forests  are 
seen  at  the  heuil  of  the  water,  and  scattering  lines  of  huts  and  stages  show 
evidences  of  the  occupation  of  the  hardv  nortiiern  fishermen.  Starting 
once  more  on  the  voyage  to  the  S.  W.,  uL  «  M.  irom  Rm\  Buy  are  seen  the 
Little  St.  Modeste  Islands,  sheltering  Black  Bay,  beyond  which  Cape 
Dlable  is  passed,  and  Diable  Bay  (4  M.  \V.  S.  W.  of  Black  Bay).  3  M. 
farther  lu  the  W.  the  steamer  enters  Loup  Day,  rounding  high  red  clilFs, 
and  touciij-4  nt  the  fishing-cstabli-hmcnt  and  hanilet  of  Lance-au-Lonp 
(which  views  the  Newfoundland  coast  from  Point  Kerolle  to  Cape  Nor- 
man). l''ield-ice  is  sometimes  seen  off  this  shore  in  the  month  of  .luue. 
Capt..  Bayfield  saw  200  icebergs  in  the  strait  in  August. 

Tlie  course  is  now  laid  to  the  S.  W.  for  3-4  M.,  to  round  Point  Amour, 
■which  is  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the  strait,  and  has  a  fixed  light,  155  ft. 
high,  and  visible  for  18  M.  From  the  Ked  CliUs,  on  the  E.  of  I.  up  Bay, 
it  is  but  11  M.  S.  S.  E.  to  the  coast  of  Newfoundland. 

"  The  Buttery,  as  sailors  call  it,  is  a  %vall  of  red  sandstone,  2-3  M.  in  extent,  witli 
horizoiual  lines  extending  from  one  extreme  to  tiie  other,  and  perperidienlar  fissures 
resembling  embrasures  and  gatesvays.  Swelling  out  with  grand  proportions  toward 
the  sea,  it  has  a  most  military  and  pictnrescjue  appeanince.  At  one  point  of  this 
huge  citadel  of  soHtude  there  is  the  resemblance  of  a  giant  portal,  with  stupendous 
piers  200  ft.  or  more  in  elevation.  They  are  much  broken  by  the  yearly  assaults  of 
the  frost,  and  the  eye  darts  up  the  i  ndd.\  ruins  in  surprise.  If  thiTc  was  anything 
to  defend,  here  is  a  Gibraltar  at  hand,  with  ("uiparativcly  small  labor,  whose  guns 
could  nearly  cross  the  str-iit.  IJ(  iieath  its  p  ccipitous  cliH.s  the  debris  slopes  like 
a  glacis  to  the  beach,  w,v:  both  -viooth  ai  '  broken  surfa-es,  and  all  very  hand- 
somely decorated  with  rauu  herbage Tlu-  red  sandstone  siu)re  is  exceedingly 

picturesque.  It  has  a  right  royal  pre.sence  along  the  ileep.  Lofty  semicinuiar 
promontories  descend  in  regular  terraces  nearly  down,  then  sweep  out  gracefully 
with  an  ample  lap  to  the  m  i:;iii.  No  art  co'tld  produce  'etter  effect.  The  long 
terraced  galleries  are  toucheu  witli  a  tender  gi  in,  and  the  well-hollowid  vales,  now 
and  then  occurring,  and  ascending  to  the  di-iaiit  horizon  between  r-.iks  oi  /ounded 
hills,  look  green  and  pasture-like Among  Vw.  very  pretty  and  refn'.-hing  fea- 
tures of  the  coast  are  its  brooks,  feen  oc-asioi  .y  falling  ovt-r  the  roiks  in  white 
cascades  Harbors  are  passed  now  and  ien,vith  small  tishing-Hcets  and  dwell- 
ings."   (NODLE.) 

The  steamer  enters  Forteou  Bay^  nrid  ru  -  across  to  tiie  V,'.  shore,  where 
are  the  white  houses  of  a  prosperous  fishiug-estublishmen;,  with  an  Kpis- 
cci^ii  church  and  rectory.  About  the  village  are  seen  large  Esquimaux 
dogs,  homely,  powerful,  and  intelligent.  This  bay  is  the  best  in  the  strait, 
and  is  much  frequented  by  the  French  fishermen,  for  Avhose  convenience 
one  of  the  .Jersey  companies  has  established  :i  station  here.  On  the  same 
side  of  the  harbor  a  fine  cascade  (100  ft,  high)  is  seen  pouring  over  tlic 
cliffs,  and  the  fresh-water  stream  which  empties  at  the  head  of  the  bay 
contains  Uirge  numbers  of  salmoQ, 


\ 


'  ■    Jit!' 


ELA.N'C  SABLON. 


Route  61      220 


wild  York 
le  itself  18 
I.,  with  the 
me  havens 
seen,  w  til 
n  excellent 
:  forests  are 
stajjes  sliow 
1.     Starting 
ire  seen  tlie 
viiiclj  Cape 
l5ay).     3  M. 
1  red  eliirf*, 
nce-au-Loiip 
»  Cape  Xor- 
nth  of  .June. 

Lnt  Amour, 

lijrjll,  155  ft. 

•  I    up  Bay, 


n  extent,  with 
[ieular  fissures 
rtioiis  toward 
lioint  of  this 
h  stupendous 
y  assaults  of 
was  anything 
whose  Runs 
is  slopes  lilie 
U  very  hand- 
■;  exceedingly 
seuiieircuiar 
ut  gnuetuUy 
The  long 
■d  vales,  now 
s  oi  /ouuded 
efre.-hin^^  tea- 
ulvs  in  white 
ts  and  dwell- 

lioro,  where 
itii  an  Kpis- 
Esquimaux 
n  the  strait, 
?onvenienc'e 

n  tlie  same 
over  the 

of  the  bay 


7  M.  be  ond  Fortonn,  Worn!  Ishind  is  passed,  and  the  harbor  of  Blanc 
S(tbl(in  is  entered.  To  tlie  W.  are  iJradore  Bay  and  Bonne  K>-perance  Bay, 
with  their  trading-stations;  and  a  few  miles  to  the  N.  W.  are  the  Bradore 
Hills,  several  rounded  summits,  of  whi(di  the  chief  is  1,2»54  fi.  Iiiirh. 

Blanc  Sablon  is  on  the  border-line  between  the  sections  of  f.abrador 
whiidi  belong,  the  one  to  tli(»  Province  of  (^ipbec,  the  other  to  Newfound- 
land. It  is  Uiinied  from  the  white  sands  which  are  brought  down  the 
river  at  the  head  of  the  bay.  Several  of  the  great  fishmg-eompanies  of 
the  Isle  of  Jersey  have  stations  here,  and  the  harbor  is  much  visited  in 
summer.  Blane  Sablon  is  at  i  !ie  W.  entrance  to  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle, 
and  it  is  but  21  M.  from  the  Isle-a-Bois  (at  the  mouth  of  the  bay)  to  the 
Newfomidland  shore.  The  village  is  surrounded  by  a  liii<^  of  riMnarkable 
terraced  hills.  On  Gretnly  Ishtnd,  just  out>ide  of  the  harbor,  32  sail  of 
fishing-vessels  were  lost  on  i    e  night  of  .Inly  2,  1856. 

Following  the  trend  of  the  N.  coast  of  the  (inlf  of  St.  Lawrence,  Blanc 
Sablon  is  distant  from  l!-r|uimMUX  Bay  20  M.,  from  Quebec  nearly  bOO  M., 
and  (in  a  straight  line)  218  M.  from  Anticosti  (see  Route  65). 

From  Blanc  Sablon  the  steamer  retraces  her  course  through  the  Strait 
of  Belle  Isle  to  Battle  Harbor. 

64.  Tlie  Labrador  Coast  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.— The 

Mingan  Islands. 

The  ports  along  this  coast  may  be  reached  by  the  American  flshing-schoonors, 
from  Uldiicester,  althoiij^h  there  can  he  no  (ertaintv  when  or  where  they  will  touch. 
Boats  iii:i     he  hired  at  lilanc  i^ablon  to  convey  passengers  to  the  W. 

Quebtc  to  the  Moiaic  River, 

The  steamer  Margnrrtta  Stevenson  leaves  Quebec  for  the  Moisic  River  every  week, 
and  may  be  hired  to  call  at  intermediate  ports.  The  ])ass!ii.'e  occnpies  30-40  hours, 
and  the  cahin-fare  is  !$  20  (including  mcula).  The  round  trip  to  Moit^ic  and  back 
takes  nearly  a  week. 

The  N.  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  is  a  region  which  \-  uniqui;  in  its  drenri- 
nos.s  and  desolation.  The  .scenery  is  wild  and  gloomy,  and  the  .>-h'iie  is  fiiced  with 
barren  and  storm-beaten  hills.  The  climate  is  rigorous  in  the  extreme.  This  dis- 
trict is  divided  into  three  parts,  —  the  King's  Posts,  with  270  M.  of  coast,  from  Port 
Neuf  to  Cape  Cormorant;  the  Seigniory  of  Mingan,  from  Cajie  (Cormorant  to  the 
iiiver  Agwanus  (135  >I.) ;  aii't  the  Labrador,  extending  from  the  Agwaiins  to  IMauc 
SiihloTi  (150  M.).  Along  thi  V;i  M.  of  coast  there  are  (census  of  iHlil)  liut  5,413  in- 
hiilitnits,  of  whom  2,t)r2  are  French  Cnnadians  and  833  are  Indians.  1,754  are  fish- 
ermen, and  1,038  hunters.  In  the  500  M.  there  are  but  380  houses,  67>a  arpents  of 
cultivated  laud,  and  12  horses.  There  are  3,841  Catholics,  570  Protestants,  and  2 
Jews. 

The  wide  Brnrhre  Bin/  Is  near  Blanc  Sablon,  to  the  W.,  and  has  been 
called  "the  most  picturcxjUe  spot  on  the  I.abrador."  In  the  back  coun- 
try are  seen  the  sharp  peaks  of  the  Bradore  Hill.s.  rising  from  the  wllder- 
"c?s(l,264  ft.  high).  The  bay  was  formerly  celebrated  for  its  numerous 
humpbacked  whales.  The  village  is  on  Point  Jones,  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  bay. 


^    'I 

•■    'If 

t'  '■ 


'  I 


1.-H 


' 


"tf- 


Ww^ 


pi 
&  ,!•■ 


230      lioute  64. 


ESQUIMAUX   BAV. 


Bra<lor«  Bay  In  of  (ftt'ft*  <*xt»>nt,  find  is  »«t\i(li|('(|  with  olnsters  of  Islets,  which 
niak<' linmd  (livi'ii)iiH  of  thi' n)ii(l-t<;ii<l.  It  wan  known  in  aii(i<  nt  tini»'.'<  ii.s  Ijt  liiiif 
f/f!i  I  f^itrs,  iiwii  \Mi>  Knintnl  liy  l''niii(«  to  tli»'  Si<  nr  Lr  (iiinlcur  df  ('mirr«ni;iii(li« 
(wlio,  ficciiriiiiiK  to  tnidition,  niiiiricd  a  I'rinccss  of  Kiinnr,  the  diiutflitcr  of  lli'iirl 
IV. )•  'I'liat  iioiilcman  ^ciit  out  aK«'nt>  and  ottirt-is,  n mud  tin-  new  port  I'/i^/i/fiKiii.r, 
and  liuilt  at  its  fntr.incc  a  Ixdwurii  called  Fort  t'ontdiartrain.  h'roni  liini  it  dv- 
(■(•I'Mdcil  to  Si»!iir  KoiiflitT,  who  lolded  tin-  tiflt-  "  df  L.iiundor  "'  to  iih  nanx' ;  and  tlitTo 
Btill  oxi>ts  a  st-nd-nolilt'  t'aniil.\  in  Franco,  ticarinj;  tiie  name  of  Fniicln  i   (h  Lnhnulor. 

On  tlMH  l>a,v  >va>  tlic  town  of  ItrcHt^  wliicli,  it  in  claimed,  was  toiinded  )>>  men 
of  Urirtany,  in  the  ear  lodh  If  tids  .statement  is  correct,  Brest  wan  tlie  tir.«t  Kuro- 
peiin  M'ttlement  in  America,  nnt.d.itiii^  In  over  thirty  years  tlie  foundation  of  .*^t. 
Augustine,  in  Florida.  In  lo.'}.")  .)ai(ues  C.irtier  met  Froncli  vt'ssels  searcliinn  for  thi« 
jiort.  Aliout  the  u-ar  lt;(l(l  |{rest  was  at  the  hcinlit  of  its  prosperity,  ami  liad  l,(l(K) 
permanent  inliahitant-^,  2iiO  hou.'>e.s,  a  governor  and  an  almoner,  and  strong  fortilica- 
tions.  After  the  suliju;,'ation  of  tiie  K,s(jiiimaux  liy  the  Montaignais,  it  was  no  longtT 
dan;;eron,s  to  estahlisli  small  llshinj?->tations  aloni;  flie  coast  and  IJrtst  begun  to 
decline  npidly.     Uuius  of  its  ancient  wort^d  may  still  be  found  here. 

The  Bay  of  litmne-Ei^perance  is  ono  of  tlie  most  cajmcious  on  this  coast, 
luid  is  shclti'rt'il  from  the  sea  l)ya  doiihlo  line  cd"  islets.  The  jiort  i.s  called 
JJnnni/  by  the  American  (ishernien,  who  resort  here  in  p;reat  nnmljers 
during  the  herring-season.  The  islands  heforo  the  hari)or  were  passed  by 
Ja(|utis  Cartier,  who  said  that  they  were  *'so  numerf)us  that  it  is  not  pos- 
sil)le  to  count  them."  They  were  formerly  (and  are  sometimes  now)  called 
Les  Isles  do  la  Demoiselle;  and  Thdvet  locates  here  the  tragedy  of  Kober- 
val's  niece  Marguerite  (see  page  221). 

Esquimaux  Bay  is  N.  of  Uonne-Msperance,  and  is  8  M.  in  circumference. 
2  M.  above  Ksquimaux  Island  is  a  small  trading-post,  above  which  is  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  abounding  in  salmon.  There  is  a  great  archipelago 
between  the  luvy  and  the  (lulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  On  one  of  these  islands 
an  ancient  fori  was  discovered  in  the  ye;ir  1840.  It  was  Iniilt  of  stone  and 
turf,  and  was  surrounded  by  great  piles  of  human  hones.  It  is  supposed  that 
the  last  great  battle  between  the  French  and  Montaignais  and  the  Ksquimaux 
took  place  here,  and  that  the  latter  were  externunated  in  their  own  fort. 

13  M.  W.  of  Whal<(  Island  are  Mistanoquc  Island  and  Shcoatica  Bay,  beyond  Lob- 
ster and  llucky  Harbors.  I'ort  .'St.  Aujrustine  is  15  M.  W.  of  .Mistanoijue,  beyond 
Shajx  Island  and  the  castellateil  hifihlauds  of  Cumberland  Harbor.  A  line  of  hijj:h 
i.<l  intis  extends  hence  21  M.  \V.  by  fi.  toGreat  Mfcrntina  hUtnd,  a  frranito  rock  2  ■  3 
RI.  in  area,  and  5lK)  ft.  iii}j;h.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  remarka))le  for  its  j^ran- 
deur  an  1  >in,u;ular  features.  58  M.  from  (Jreat  Meccatina  Island  is  l'(t})i'  \\  nittle  ;  and 
in  the  interveninpj  conr.se  the  Watafrncistic  .'^ound  and  UapitJi^un  Harbor  are  passed. 
A  frinsie  of  islands  extends  for  6-8  M.  otf  this  coast,  of  which  the  outevuiost  are 
barren  rocks,  and  the  large  inner  ones  are  covered  witli  moss-grown  hills. 


"  Now,  brothers,  for  the  icebergs 

Of  frozen  Labrador, 
Fliiiitin;:  spectial  in  tlie  nioonsliine 

.Aloui.'  die  low  black  sliore  . 
Willie  like  snow  die  ^»avnu't  s  leathers 

On  Mjadors  rocks  are  slicd, 
And  the  noisy  nnnT  are  flying. 

Like  black  scuds,  overhead  ; 

"  Where  in  mist  the  rock  is  ludin?, 

And  tlie  sharp  roff  lurks  below. 
And  the  white  sciuall  Inrks  in  .summer, 

And  the  antnuin  tempests  Mow  . 
Wlieie,  tiiroujrii  gray  and  rolliiiij  vupor. 

From  eveniim  unto  morn, 
A  thousand  Itoats  are  liailina, 

tiorn  unaweriug  unto  hum. 


"  Hurrah  I  for  the  Red  Island, 

With  the  white  cioss  on  its  crown  ! 
Hurrah  !  for  Meccatina, 

And  its  niount:iins  hare  and  brown  1 
Where  tlie  Caribou's  tiill  antlers 

Oct  the  dwart-Wdod  Ireily  toss. 
And  the  lootstcp  oi  the  .Mickmaek 

Has  no  sound  upon  the  moss. 

"  Hnrruli  1  —  bin  i  .ih  !  —  the  west-wind 

Conies  freshening  down  the  bay, 
The  risiiiR  sails  m     liUiiiir,  — 

(jiive  way,  my  lads,  (.'ivc  way  I 
Leave  tiie  coward  laiidsnien  ciinging 

'J'o  the  dull  earth,  like  a  weed,  — 
The  stars  of  heaven  shall  puide  us, 

Tlie  bre.ith  oI  Ik  'Vcu  sh.ill  speed  I  " 

John  G.  Whittieks  Somj  oJ  the  Fishermen. 


't»,  which 

I  Ui   liiiif 
■tcm;iii(hn 

of  lli'iul 

liiiii  it  (If- 
aml  tlicro 

l.iiliKKliir. 

II  li\     lUt'll 

th>t  Kuro- 
inll  of  St. 
iiij;  for  tliifl 
had  1,(H)0 
^  fortitU'ii- 
<  no  loiigor 
t  bfjjun  to 

his  coast, 
Is  called 
numbers 
)iisse(l  by 
s  not  pos- 
i3\v)  culled 
of  Kober- 

iTifcrcnce. 

icli  is  the 

cliii)eliigo 

se  islands 

stone  and 

[losed  that 

squiniaux 

\vn  fort. 

;yonrt  Lob- 
uo,  bcvond 
w  of  lii^h 
•ock  2  ■  3 
r  its  >?iMn- 
nittle  ;  and 
lire  v)as>cd. 
iruiost  are 


•owtt  ! 

brown  ! 

s 

>ss, 

luek 

-wind 
buy, 


inging 
1,- 

MS, 

xed  I  ■■ 
slicrmen. 


THE   MINGAN   ISLANDS.         Ro„te  6/,.      231 

Prom  tho  quantity  of  wreck  fntind  nmon);  thcnc  i«lntidN,  no  dotiht  innny  molan- 
cbol.v  sbipwrt'cks  liavc  takfii  pbicf,  wbicb  bavc  in-vir  been  lii-Jird  if;  cvni  if  tho 
unrortiiiiutu  I  iTws  liiiid<'<l  <<m  tbcliarrcii  inrkM,  they  would  |i*>ri-'li  of  < old  iiiid  biiii)fi'rt 

The  "cyrxfTM  "  rarr\ on  tbcir  illri:al  IuisIih'hh  alon^  tbc.-o  >boi«'f,  \Nii«'r«'  niillioiirt 
of  Hca-birds  liavc  Ibiir  lir»t'diiiy;-|(lii  cs,  'IMu'.v  land  on  Hu'  islands  and  break  all  tho 
«'^Ks,  and  wli«-n  tin-  I'irtls  las  frrsn  oni's  tlicy  pitlicr  tin  in  n|i,  and  b  ad  tbcir  bcutM. 
'I'litn- an- about  lib  vi'>s<ls  cn^fapd  in  ibis  lontialiaiid  tradi-,  earn ln>?  tlu'  t'^r^^s  to 
ll.ilifax,(.Jncb«'c,aiiil  Ibistoii.  "  Tln-MMiK'n  ionibinc  top'tlu'r,and  form  a  stron^roni- 
pany.  Tbcy  snifcr  no  ono  to  intcrti  ro  with  tluir  buhint'SH,  drivinjt  iiwny  tbf  tlslnn- 
nicn  or  any  one  else  fbat  attempts  to  rollect  e^j^s  near  win-re  fliey  liappen  to  bo. 
.Milflit  makes  rij,'bt  with  tbeni,  if  onr  information  be  true  Tbey  bav»!  arms,  and 
are  said  l)y  tin;  tl-bermen  not  to  ite  sernpnions  in  tin-  u>e  of  tin-in.  As  soon  as  tin-y 
iiiiVf  tilled  one  ves.-el  with  eHK-',  t''«'y  t-*'nd  lier  to  market  ;  others  follow  in  sue<  e*> 
hiun,  so  tliiit  the  market  Is  alw.iys  supplied,  but  never  overstocked.  One  vessel  ol  'Jf) 
tons  Is  said  to  have  clcait-'d  iC'2)J0  by  thia  '  I'ggiug  '  buBiue.«(»  in  u  favorable  Bcaeou." 
{Xuuticut  Magazine.) 

To  tlie  W.  of  Ci\po  Whittle  arc  the  Wolf,  Concocho,  Oloinanoslipebn, 
Wash-shocootai,  and  Mii-(iuarro  Hivcrs,  on  the  last  three  of  which  are 
])osts  of  the  Hudson's  IJay  Company.  Next  come  tlie  Kc^ashka  H;iy  iind 
Hiver,  the  cUlf?  of  Mont  Joli,  tlie  c(;d  banlis  oil'  Natasluiiinn  I'oint,  and 
several  obscure  rivers. 

Tlie  Mingan  Islands  are  29  in  number,  and  lie  between  the  moun- 
tiuMous  shores  of  lower  Labrador  and  the  island  of  Antico.'ti.  They 
jibouiid  in  geolo<;ical  phenomena,  ancient  beaches,  ck'nuded  rocks,  etc., 
and  are  of  very  |)ictures(jue  contours.  xManit  their  shores  of  liincstono 
are  thick  forests  of  spruce,  birch,  and  poplar;  seals  and  codfisli  abound 
in  the  a<ljacent  waters;  iind  wild  fowl  are  very  plentiful  in  the  [)roper  sea- 
son. Large  Lsland  is  11  M.  in  circuml'erence;  and  Mingan,  Quarry, 
Xii\pisca,  Esquimaux,  and  Ciuudes  Islands  are  2-3  M.  in  length.  'Ihey 
front  the  Labrador  coast  for  a  distance  of  4.')  ^L 

There  are  about  GOO  inhabitants  near  the  ishmd",  most  of  wh'^m  are  In- 
dians and  French  Acadians,  for  whose  spiritual  guidance  the  Oblate  Fathers 
have  established  a  mission.  Tho  chief  village  is  at  Miiif/an  Harbor^  on 
tlie  mainland,  back  of  Harbor  Island;  and  here  is  a  post  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company.  'J'he  harbor  is  commodious  antl  easy  of  access,  and  has 
been  visited  by  large  frigates.  The  salmon  and  tr(>ut  (islic>ries  of  tho 
Seigniory  of  Mingan  are  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  world.  Loni)  Point  is 
due  N.  of  the  Perroquets,  6  M.  from  Mingan  Harbor,  and  is  a  modern  Hsh- 
ing-village  fronting  on  a  broad  beach.  Tlie  Hsh  catight  and  cured  here 
Mre  sent  to  Si)ain  and  Brazil,  and  form  an  ol)ject  of  lucrative  trailic.  The 
Hshormen  are  hardy  and  industrious  men,  generally  quiet,  but  turbulent 
iuid  desperate  during  their  long  drinking-bouts. 

The  ?cij;niory  of  the  Minpan  Islands  and  the  adjiioent  mainland  was  granted  to 
the  .sieur  Frain^-ois  l?issot  inlb(il,and  the  feudal  rij.'hts  thus  convex ed and  still  niain- 
tidned  l)y  tho  owners  liave  greatly  letarded  tlie  progress  of  tliis  district.  The  walrus 
li>lieries  were  formerly  of  great  value  lure,  and  their  memory  is  preserved  by  Walrus 
Island,  on  whose  shores  tlie  great  sea-cows  used  to  land,  "  In  1H.")2  tiicie  was  not  a 
t-iiig!e  esiii'i'iishnient  on  the  coast,  between  the  Bay  of  Mingan  and  the  t^even  Jsles, 
and  not  a  quintal  of  codfish  was  taken,  except  on  the  banks  of  Mingan  and  at  the 
Kiver  t»t.  John,  which  the  American  fishermen  have  frequented  for  many  years. 
Now,  there  is  not  a  river,  a  cove,  a  creek,  which  is  not  occupitd,  and  every  jear  ther« 


■' :  t  4 


}•: 


.14 


'' 


1    ■'•■ 


1* 


\h 


!l' 


Kit 


f  pi  'I  m 


■ift 


232      Route  64.        THE  MJNGAN  ISLANDS. 

are  taken  30-35,000  quintals  of  cod,  without  countinpf  other  fish."  "  The  once 
desoliite  coiists  of  MiiiKan  have  acquired,  by  iinmiji;ration,  a  vigorous,  moral,  and 
truly  Catlioiic  population.  Tiie  uieu  are  generally  strong  and  robust,  and  above  all 
they  arc  hardy  neauien.' 

Oil  the  W.  odgo  of  tho  Minnjnn  Tslaiiils  are  the  Perroqiiets,  a,  cluster  of 
low  rocks  where  great  numixTs  of  piiHius  burrow  :uul  rear  their  young. 
On  these  islets  the  steamshi[)S  Clydt  and  North  Briton  were  wrecked  (in 
1857  and  1&61). 

A  beach  of  white  sand  extends  W.  from  Long  Point  to  the  St.  John 
River,  a  distance  of  18-20  M.  Tho  river  is  marked  by  the  tall  adjacent 
peak  of  Mount  St.  John  {1,41G  ft.  high);  and  furnishes  very  good  fishing 
(see  G.  C.  Scott's  "  Fishing  in  American  Waters  "). 

The  Manitou  Riv,r  is  34  M.  W.  of  the  St.  .Tohn,  and  at  1^  M.  from  its  mouth  it 
makes  a  grand  leap  over  a  clitf  113  ft.  hijJfh,  iorming  tlu;  most  mugiiitic^eiit  cataract 
on  the  N.  .-liore.  The  const  Indians  still  repeat  tiie  lejiend  of  Llie  inva-ion  of  this 
country  by  the  Micmacs  (from  Aiadiaj,  liOi)  years  ajj;o,  and  its  heroic  end  The  hos- 
tile w.ir-party  encaniiied  ar,  the  falls,  iiiteiuliiig  to  attack  tiie  Montai^nais  at  the 
portajJies,  for  wliicb  piiri)ose  forces  were  stationed  above  and  below.  IJuC  the  local 
tribes  detected  their  pn^st-iice,  and  cut  olf  the  p;uards  at  the  canoes,  then  surprised 
the  derachiiicut  bdow  the  t.iUs,  aiid  tinally  attacked  the  main  body  above.  After 
the  unsi)ariiifi  carna^'e  of  a  louir  night-battle,  the  .Micmacs  were  conquered,  all  save 
their  great  wizard-chief,  who  stood  ou  the  verge  of  the  falls,  singing  songs  of  de- 
fiance. A  Moutaignais  ihief  rushed  forward  to  take  him,  wliea  the  bold  Micmac 
seized  his  oppouent  and  leaji"  1  with  him  into  the  foaming  waters.  They  were  both 
borne  over  the  precipice,  and  the  falls  have  ever  since  been  known  as  the  Mauitousia 
(Conjurer's)  Kails. 

The  Moisic  River  is  about  40  M.  W.  of  the  Manitou  River,  and  empties 
into  a  broad  bay  which  receives  also  the  Trout  Hiver.  At  this  point  are 
the  Moisic  Iron  Works,  near  which  there  are  about  700  inhabitants,  most  of 
whom  are  connected  with  the  mines.  This  company  has  its  chief  office 
in  Montreal,  and  runs  a  weekly  steamer  between  Minslc  and  Quebec  (see 
page  231).  There  is  a  hotel  here,  wliere  visitors  can  get  plain  fare  at  $5 
a  week  (no  liquors  on  the  premises).  Large  quantities  of  codfish  and  sal- 
mon are  exported  from  Moisic. 

The  Seven  Islands  are  a  group  of  barren  "mountain-peaks,  starting 
suddenly  from  the  ocean,"  and  situated  several  leagues  W.  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Moisic  Riv«M'.  They  were  visited  by  Cartier  (ir)35)  who  reported 
that  he  saw  sea-horses  here;  and  in  1731  they  were  included  in  the 
Domaine  chi  Roi.  The  trading-post  which  was  ostal)Iished  here  by  the 
French,  140  years  ago,  subsequently  reverted  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, and  is  visited  by  3-4vj0  Nasqrapee  Indians.  Since  the  departure 
of  the  H.  B.  (Company,  tiie  jiost  itself  has  lost  its  importance,  but  all  ves- 
sels trading  on  the  N.  shore  are  now  obliged  to  get  their  clearances  here. 
The  Moutaignais  Indians  had  a  broad  trail  running  thence  up  a  vast  and 
desolate  valley  to  Lake  St.  John,  300  M  S.  W.,  and  the  Moisic  River  was 
prrt  of  the  canoe-route  to  Hudson's  Bs-.y.  The  Moutaignais  were  here 
secure  from  the  attacks  of  the  dreaded  Mohawks  on  the  c.  •  side,  and  the 
maritime  Esquimaux  ou  the  other,  and  here  they  rc.,o.  1  t;:„  Jesuit  mis- 
sionarira. 


"  The  once 
I,  moriil,  and 
lud  above  ull 


i  cluster  of 
heir  young, 
vrecked  (in 

:he  St.  John 
lU  adjacent 
;ood  fishing 

1  its  mouth  it 
.(;(;iit  cataract 
va.-ion  of  tliis 
,d  The  hos- 
li^nais  at  the 
Hut  the  local 
hen  surprised 
above.  After 
uM'od,  all  save 
jj;  soM'^s  of  de- 
I  liold  Micmac 
hey  w.'re  both 
he  Mauitousia 

and  empties 
his  point  are 
ints.  most  of 
^  chief  office 
Quebec  (see 
in  fare  at  $5 
Ifish  and  sal- 

f!\ks,  starting 

|)f  the  mouth 
•lio  reported 

ludf^d   in   the 
here  by  the 

I's  Bay  Com- 
he  departure 
,  but  all  ves- 
Irances  here, 
ip  a  vast  and 
lie  River  was 
lis  were  here 
Isida,  and  the 
1„  Jesuit  niis- 


THE  SEVEN   ISLANDS.         Houte  64.      233 

The  scenery  of  the  Bay  of  Seven  Islands  is  famed  for  its  wild  beauty  and  weird 
desolation.  The  bay  is  7  M.  loiijr,and  is  sheltered  by  the  islands  and  n  uiountainous 
promontory  on  the  VV.  The  inmediate  .•'bore  is  a  fine  sandy  beach,  hack  of  whidi 
are  broad  lowlands,  and  "  the  two  jiiirnllel  ranges  of  mountains,  whicli  add  so  nuicb 
to  the  beauty  of  the  disuiiit  Meiiery  of  tiiis  bas ,  look  like  hiifie  and  inipenetnilde 
barriers  between  the  coast  and  the  howjinj;  \vilderneisHbe\  ond  tliem  "'  In  the  spring 
and  autumn  tliis  bay  if  visited  liy  ni\  riad.s  of  duck.^,  iieese,  brant,  and  other  wild 
fowl,  and  the  palmoii-fi>liiii{c  in  the  adjacent  .»treani,«i  i.'.;  of  fj;reat  vaiiie.  The  Great 
Bouf.  is  the  iofticft  of  ll.e  .S'ven  l.'^inds,  reachiiig  an  altifmle  of  'iW  ft.  al nve  the 
sea,  and  commandinp;  a  broad  and  niairnific  ent  view.  There  are  nbuut  80(1  inhab- 
itants here,  a  large  proportion  of  whom  are  Indians  who  are  engaged  in  Hie  fur- 
trade.  Ou  Carrousel  hland  is  a  fixed  light,  195  ft.  above  the  sea,  which  i.s  visible 
for  iiO  M. 

From  Carrousel  I'^land  to  the  St.  Margaret  River  it  is  8  M.;  to  the 
Cawee  Islands,  24;  to  Sproule  Point,  ?S;  and  still  farther  W.  are  tlie 
Pentecost  River  and  English  Point,  olf  which  are  the  Egg  Islands,  bear- 
ing a  revolving  white  light,  which  warns  off  mariners  from  one  of  tlie  most 
dangerous  points  on  the  coast. 

In  the  spring  of  1711  the  British  government  .sent  against  Quebec  15  men-of-war, 
under  Adndral  Sir  llovenden  Walker,  and  40  transports  loutaining  5,000  veteran 
soldiers.  During  a  terrible  Angu.^t  storm,  while  the^  were  ascending  the  Gulf  of 
St.  La\  rence,  the  fleet  drove  down  on  the  Egg  Islands.  The  frigates  were  saved 
from  the  shoals,  but  8  transports  were  wr»(  ktd,  with  1,3^3  men  on  board,  and 
''884  brave  fellows,  who  li;id  jias.sed  scathic  ss  thiough  the  sanguinary  battles  of 
Bleidiein',  Ran;illies,  and  Ouiieiiarde,  iieiisiied  miserably  on  the  de.-olate  shores 
of  the  St.  Lawrence. '■  This  terriiile  loss  was  the  cause  of  the  total  failure  of  the  ex- 
pedition. The  French  vessels  wliicli  visited  the  i.-les  alter  Ualker's  disaster  ''  found 
the  wrecks  of  8  large  vessels,  from  which  the  cannon  and  best  arti?  les  had  been  re- 
moved, and  nearly  o,000  persons  drowned,  and  their  bodies  lying  along  the  shore. 
They  recognized  iiniong  them  two  Nsliole  conij)anies  of  the  Queen's  Guards,  di.s- 
tinguisiied  by  their  red  coats,  and  several  Scotch  liuuilies,  intended  as  settlers  in 
Canada,'"  among  them  seven  women,  all  clasping  each  otlier"s  hands.  The  regi- 
ments of  Kaine,  Windresse,  Seymour,  and  Clayton  were  nearly  annihilated  in  this 
wreck.  '-The  Fn-nch  colony  could  not  but  recognize  a  Providence  which  watcdied 
singularly  over  its  preservation,  and  which,  not  .s.iti.sfied  with  rescuing  it  from 
the  greatest  danger  it  had  yet  run,  had  enriched  it  with  the  sjioils  of  an  enemy 
whom  it  had  not  had  the  pains  to  conquer  ;  hence  they  rendered  llim  most  heart- 
felt thanks."    (Chaiilevoix.) 

Beyond  the  hamlet  on  Caribou  Point  and  the  deep  biglit  of  Trinity  Bay 
is  Point  tie  Monts  (or,  as  some  say,  Point  aux  Demons),  280  M.  from  Que- 
bec. There  is  a  powerful  fixed  light  on  this  promontory.  8  M.  l)eyond  is 
Goflbout,  with  its  fur.  trading  |)ost;  anrl  9  M.  fartiier  W.  is  Cape  St.  Nicho- 
las. 18  M.  from  the  cape  is  Mauicoutigan  Point,  20  M.  W.  of  which  is  the 
gretit  Indiiin  triiding-jiost  at  the  Berslmis  liii'er,  where  700  Indians  have 
tlu'ir  headqtuu'ters;  thence  to  Cape  Colombier  it  is  11^  ?*I.;  and  to  the 
church  and  fort  at  Port  Nevf'xt  is  12  M.  Point  ^^llle  Vaches  is  opposite 
l)i(iuette,  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  St.  Ltiwrence,  and  is  near  the  Siudt  de 
}[o}iton,  a  full  of  80  ft.  There  tu-e  severtil  settlements  of  French  Catholic, 
farmers  alone  the  shore.  At  Les  Escovniains  there  tire  500  inhtibitants 
and  considerable  qiumtities  of  grain  and  lumber  are  shipped.  The  coast 
is  of  grau'te,  steep  and  bold,  and  runs  S.  W.  16  M.  to  Pttite  BcrgerGnne, 
whence  it  is  5^  M.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay  River. 


234      Jioute  65. 


ANTICOSTI. 


.>&■■ 


^1 


65.   Anticosti. 

The  islp.nd  of  Anticof^ti  lios  in  tlie  mouth  of'tho  St.  Lawrence  River,  nnd 
is  lis  M.  loiip;  and  31  M.  wide.  In  1^71  it  had  about  80  inluibitants,  in 
charge  of  tlie  government  Hglits  and  stations,  and  also  50  acres  of  cleared 
land  and  3  horses.  Fox  River  is  GO  M.  distant;  the  Minpm  Islands,  30  M.; 
nnd  Quebec,  about  450  M.  The  island  nas  lately  tieen  the  scene  of  the 
operations  of  the  Anticosti  Land  Company,  which  designed  to  found  here 
!i  tiew  Prince  Edward  Island,  covering  these  peat-plains  with  prosperous 
farms.     The  enterprise  has  as  yet  met  with  but  a  limited  success. 

Anticosti  has  some  woodlands,  Ijut  is  for  the  most  part  covered  with 
black  peaty  bog*  and  ponds,  with  broad  lagoons  near  the  sea.  The  bog? 
resemble  tho-e  of  Ireland,  and  the  forests  are  composed  of  low  and  stunted 
trees.  The  shores  are  lined  with  great  piles  of  driftwood  and  the  frag- 
ments of  wrecks.  There  are  many  bears,  otters,  foxes,  ai.i  martens;  also 
partridges,  geese,  brant,  teal,  and  all  manner  of  aquatic  fowl.  The  months 
of  July  and  August  are  rendered  miserat)le  by  the  presence  of  immense 
swarms  of  black  flies  and  mosquitoes,  bred  in  the  swami)s  and  bogs. 
Large  whales  are  seen  off  these  shores,  and  the  early  codfish  are  also  found 
here.  Fine  limestone  ami  marble  occur  in  several  ]ilaces;  and  marl  and 
peat  are  found  in  vast  quantities.  There  are  lighthouses  at  S.  W.  Point, 
S.  Point  (and  a  f(\g-whi^tIo),  W.  Point  (and  an  alarm-gmi),  and  Ilcath'o 
Point.  The  government  has  established  supply-huts  along  the  shores 
since  the  terrible  wreck  of  the  Granicus,  on  the  S.  E.  point,  when  the  crew 
reached  the  shore,  but  could  fmd  nothing  to  eat,  and  v;ere  obliged  to  devour 
each  other.     None  were  saved. 

In  1090  one  of  Sir  William  Pliipps's  troop-ships  was  wrockod  on  Anticosti,  during 
the  rotroat  from  QiU'Vue,  iuul  but  5  of  its  j)('0]il(>  surviv(>d  the  winter  on  the  islamj. 
■\Vhen  the  ice  broke  up,  these  brave  felluws  starteil  in  a  row-l)oat  for  Boston,  DOO  M. 
di-^t'tnt;  and  after  a  passage  of  44  davs  thcv  reached  their  old  home  in  safety.  The 
island  was  granted  in  liiOl  to  the  Sieur  .loiiet,  who  erected  a  fort  here,  hut  was  s  ton 
plnndered  and  ejecteil  by  the  lOnglish.  In  1S!14  II.  1$.  M.  frigate  Leopard,  50,  the 
Bame  vessel  which  cajitiu'ed  the  U   S.  frigate  C/iesapeake  was  lost  here. 

"  The  dangerous,  desolate  shores  of  Anticosti,  rich  in  wrecks,  accursed  in  human 
BufliM'ing.  Tills  hideous  wilderness  has  been  the  grave  of  hundreds;  by  the  slowest 
and  ghastliest  of  deaths  they  died,  —  starvation.  U'ashed  ashore  from  maimed  and 
sinking  ships,  saved  to  destruction,  '^'ley  drag  their  chilled  and  battered  limbs  up  the 
romxh  rocks  :  for  a  moment,  warm  with  hop(>,  they  look  around  with  eairer,  strain- 
ing eyes  for  shelt<>r,  —  and  there  i:.  none  :  the  failinji  sight  darkens  on  hilland  forest, 
forest,  and  iiill,  and  hi.  ck  despair.  Hours  ami  days  waste  out  the  lamp  of  life,  until 
at  length  the  withered  skeletons  have  only  strength  to  die."     (Eliot  VV"a.hburton.) 

In  1885  Anticosti  was  t)ought  by  F.  W.  &  T.  G.  Stock  well,  merciiants 
of  <^Mudj('c  and  L'lndou,  Avho  have  stores  at  English  Bay,  Mclhtnald  (.'ove, 
and  Fox  Bay,  and  are  trying  to  colonize  the  island.  At  the  beginning  o:^ 
18SS  there  were  .'}()()  residents,  including  many  Yarmouth  (Eng.)  lishernieii. 

Barley  and  garden  vegetal)les  grow  well."^  The  many  short  rivers  on  ilic 
S.  side,  rapid  and  dangvi'ous  in  spring,  abound  in  trout  and  salmon.  Thy 
Jinii/)ei-  Hirer  is  more  than  50  M.  long,  with   charming  .scenerv.     The  N. 

,.!,,.,.,.     ;.     Iw, ...■:!.■    ..•..^,1...!    /.,;i.,.     o..),      .,(..    \  'IM l.rr    *!    i,: -rti :_   -i. 

MiOll::     1.-^     iirfi>ii^>      <»tivuja    (^pmi;.   il.-^il,    i;n.;.  llic     lllK'l     1 1^  ri  1 1  Ig- \  iilMfi  e   ISfu 

English   Bay.        In  the  antunin  (he  Caiiadlau    (iovi'rnuieiit  is  sometimes 
obliged  to  remove  the  starving  Anticu.>tians  to  civilized  comniunities. 


Eiver,  nnd 

ibitaiits,  in 
of  cleared 
mis,  30  M.; 
;etie  of  the 
found  liere 
prosperous 
'ss. 

)verod  with 
The  honr? 
!ind  stunted 
111  the  frai,'- 
urtens;  also 
The  niontha 
of  hnmense 
s  and  bogs, 
•e  al^o  found 
id  marl  and 
S.  W.  l^int, 
and  IIeath'3 
the    shores 
en  the  crew 
ed  to  devour 


dcosti,  (luring 

on  the  i<lan(l. 

^ton,900M. 

siiloty.     Tho 

)ut  wiis  s  (Oil 

panl,  50,  tho 

ed  in  huniiin 

jy  the  slowest 

maimed  and 

limV)s  up  tho 

easier,  strain- 

ill  and  forest, 

1>  f.flil'c,  until 

W'AIUJUKTOX.) 

inerciiaut? 
lujld  Covf, 
)e;^inniii}i'  <»- 
)  lishernitMi. 
ivers  on  the 
Imon.  Til 'J 
Brv.  The  N. 
-villoge  is  »t 
sdiiii-tiuies 
luuiues. 


%■ 


f 


PROVINCE   OF  QUEBEC. 


Quebec  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  Province  of  Ontario,  on  the  N.  by 
the  wilderness  towards  Hudson's  Bay,  on  the  E.  by  Maine,  Labradur,  and 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  aiul  on  the  S.  by  New  Brunswick,  New  Eng- 
land, and  New  YiM-k.  It  covers  188,088  sipiare  miles,  and  its  scenery  is 
highly  diversilied  and  often  mountainous,  contrasting  strongly  with  the 
inuuense  prairies  of  Ontario.  The  srately  river  .St.  Lawrence  traverses  the 
Province  from  S.  W  to  N.  E.,  and  receives  as  tributaries  the  large  river.s 
Ottawa.  Richelieu,  St.  ^lauriee,  ami  Saguenay.  The  Eastern  Townships 
and  (iaspt''  Peninsula  are  famed  for  their  tine  highland  scenery,  amid  which 
are  beautiful  lakes  and  glens. 

The  Province  of  Qiebec  ha<  L359,0-:.'  inhabitants  (census  of  1881),  the 
vt/st  majority  of  whom  are  of  French  (le>''ent  and  language.  1, 170,7  LS  of 
the  people  are  liomaii  Cailmlics,  and  the  laws  of  education  are  modilied  to 
suit  the  system  of  parish-schools.  There  are  08,797  C'iiurch-of-Eiigland 
people,  50.287  Presbyterians,  and  'iU,-2-2\  3Iethodists;  1,073,820  are  of 
Ennch  origin,  123,74!)  Lrish,  81,515  English,  and  54,023  Scottish. 

The  Dominion  of  Canada  is  ruled  by  a  GovernoMienernl  (appointed  by 
the  British  sovereign)  and  Privy  Council,  and  a  Pai-liamont  consisting  of 
8J  senators  (24  each  from  Ontario  and  (^;ebec,  12  each  from  Nova  Scotia  and 
New  Brunswick,  and  !3  from  P.  E.  L'^laiid,  Manitoba,  and  British  (Ailumbia) 
and  208  members  of  the  House  of  Commons.  There  is  one  member  for  each 
17,000  souls,  or  8!t  for  Ontario,  05  for  Quebec.  21  for  Nova  Scotia,  10  for  New 
Brunswick,  6  each  for  Prince  Edward  I^iand  and  British  Columbia,  and  5 
for  Manitoba.  There  are  30,144  Canadian  militiamen,  with  a  military 
school  at  Kingston:  and  the  navy  consists  of  8  armed  screw-steamers  (on 
the  lakes  and  the  Gulf).  In  1800  Canada  had  240,000  inhabitants;  in  1825, 
581.020:  in  1851,  1.842.205;  in  1871,  3,(i57,887;  and  in  18SI,  4,324,810. 
r.etween  1842  and  1872,  831,108  emigrants  from  Great  Britain  entered 
Canada;  and  in  the  same  period.  4,338.08  i  persons,  from  the  sanu;  king- 
dom, emigrated  to  the  United  States.  The  cxixirls  and  imports  of  Canada 
amount  to  alxuit  «  00,01)0,000  a  yea;-.  Her  chief  trade  is  with  Gn'at  Brit- 
ain and  the  United  States,  aiid  the  main  exports  are  breulstuffs  and  tim- 
lier.  The  Dominion  has  nearly  10,000  M.  of  railways,  and  there  are  more 
than  0,000  post-ollices. 

The  tirst  European  explorer  who  visited  this  country  was  Jacques  Car* 


,\3:i 


I'M 


x- . 


■'  >lll 


236 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEDEC. 


L|r 


tier,  who  landed  at  Gtispe  in  1534.  and  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  tothesile 
of  Montreal  during  the  follovvino:  yenr.  Seventeen  .venrs  later  the  ill-fated 
Koberval  founded  an  ephemeral  colony  near  Quebec,  and  thereafter  for 
over  half  a  century  C'iinada  was  unvisited.  In  1G03  Chaniplain  ascended 
to  the  site  of  Montreal,  and  Quebec  and  Montreal  were  soon  founded;  while 
the  labors  of  explorations,  nussions,  and  fi<i;hting  the  Iroquois  wera  carried 
on  without  cessation.  In  162li  Canada  was  taken  by  an  Knglish  lleet  under 
Sir  David  Kirke,  but  it  was  restored  to  France  ii;  1G32.  Tlie  Company  of 
the  Hundred  Associates  was  fotnidcd  by  Cardinal  Iticheliou  in  1627,  to 
erect  settleiiients  in  Ld  Nouvi^/le  France,  but  the  daring  and  merciless  in- 
cursions of  the  Iroquois  Indians  prevented  the  growth  of  the  colonies,  and 
in  1663  the  company  was  dissolved.  Finally,  after  thf  y  had  exterminated 
the  unfortunate  Huron  nation,  the  Iroquois  destro/ed  a  part  of  .Alon- 
treal  a-  d  many  of  its  i)eople  (IGS'J).  The  long  an.',  bitter  wars  between 
Canada  and  the  Anglo-American  colonies  had  Xr,w  commenced,  and  Xev/ 
York  and  New  England  were  ravaged  by  the  French  troops  and  their  allied 
Indians. 

Naval  expeditions  vrere  sent  from  Boston  against  Quebec  in  1690  and 
1711,  but  tliey  both  ended  disastrously,  i^h^ntreal  and  its  environs  were 
several  tmies  assailed  bv  the  forces  of  New  York,  but  most  of  the  fio-htino- 
^vas  done  on  the  line  of  Lake  Chanqilnin  and  in  the  Maritime  Frovinces. 
At  last  these  outposts  feh,  and  powerful  British  armies  entered  Canada  on 
the  K.  and  W.  In  1759  Wolfe's  army  captui-ed  Quebec,  after  a  pitched 
battle  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham;  and  in  the  following  year  Montreal  was 
occupied  by  Gen.  Amherst,  with  17,000  men.  The  French  troops  were 
sent  home;  and  in  1703,  by  the  Treaty  of  Paris,  F' ranee  ceded  to  Great 
Britain  all  her  immense  Canadian  domains.  There  were  then  67,000 
French  people  and  8,000  Indians  in  tI;o  Province. 

The  resident  population  was  conciliated  by  tf)le".wice  to  the-r  religion 
and  otlu  r  liberal  measures,  and  refused  to  join  the  American  Colonies 
when  they  revolted  in  1775.  The  army  of  Gen.  Montgomery  took  Montreal 
and  the  djacent  country,  but  the  Canadians  declined  either  to  aid  or  to 
oppose  the  Americans;  and  when  Arnold  was  defeated  in  his  attempt  to 
storm  Quebec,  the  Continental  forces  were  soon  driven  back  into  the 
United  States.  In  1791  the  Provinces  of  Upper  Canada  and  Lower  Canada 
were  formed,  in  order  to  stop  the  discontent  of  the  F'riglish  population,  who 
were  thus  separated  fro-n  the  French  settlements  to  tiit  E. 

In  17!il  repre.KMitativc  government  was  ('-.taliiished,  and  in  1793  slavery 
was  abolishofj.  The  War  of  1812  was  wnged  beyond  the  bouiKhiries  of 
Lower  Canada,  except  during  the  almrtive  attempt  of  tb.e  Americans  to 
capture  Montreal,  /n  1837  revolutionary  uprisings  occurred  in  various 
parts  of  Ca  ada,  u/id  were  only  put  down  after  much  bloodshed.  In  1840 
the  two  Provinces  were  united,  after  which  the  seigniorial  tenures  were 
abolished,  decimal  currency  was  adopted,  the  laws  were  codified,  and  other 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 


237 


^,  to  the  site 
he  ill-fated 
a*e;itter  for 
1  iiscended 
ided;  while 
ere  curried 
lleet  under 
'oiiipany  of 
ill  1G27,  to 
lerclless  iii- 
»l()nie>,  and 
vteruiinated 
irt  of  .Mon- 
vrs  between 
d,  and  Nev/ 
1  then-  allied 

in  1690  and 
ivirons  were 

tlie  figliting 
e  Province*. 
d  Canada  on 

r  a  ])itched 

Diitreal  was 

roops  were 

led  to  Great 

then  67,000 

le'r  religion 
m  Colonies 
ok  Montreal 
to  aid  or  to 
attempt  to 
ick  into  the 
ower  Canada 
lulation,  who 

17it3  slavery 
uiidaries  of 
niericans  to 
1  in  various 
■ed.  In  1?40 
enures  were 
d,  and  other 


improvements  took  place.  The  capital,  which  had  been  shifted  from 
Kingston  to  Montreal,  and  then  to  Toronto,  was  established  by  the  Queen 
at  Ottawa  in  1860.  Tlie  French  and  English  deputies  in  Parliament  were 
still  at  odds,  and  after  u  long  wrangle  in  1864,  the  attention  of  the  country 
was  drawn  to  the  old  project  of  confetleration  whicli  was  at  last  realized 
in  1867,  and  Canada  (then  d  vided  into  Ontario  aiul  Quebec)  and  the  Mari- 
time Provinces  were  consolidated  into  tlie  Dominion  of  Canada.  Since 
that  day  the  councils  of  the  Imperial  Government  have  manifested  a  de- 
sire to  give  independence  to  the  new  State;  and  the  Dominion,  endowed 
with  autonomic  powers,  has  made  rapid  advances,  building  great  railways, 
bridges,  and  canals,  and  forwarding  internal  improvements.  Meantime 
Ontario  has  gained  a  preponderating  power  in  the  national  councils,  and 
*he  statesmen  of  Quebec  are  now  maturing  plans  for  the  energetic  devel- 
opment of  the  natural  capabilities  of  the  Province,  hoping  thereby  to 
restore  the  Province  of  Quebec  to  her  former  pre-eminence  and  to  popu- 
late her  waste  places' 

"  Like  a  virgin  goddc?s  in  a  primeval  world,  Canada  still  walks  in  unconscious 
beauty  among  her  golden  .voods  and  along  the  margin  of  her  trackless  streams, 
catching  liut  broken  glances  of  her  ividiant  nugosty,a.s  mirrored  on  their  surface, 
Bml  scarcely  dreams  as  yet  of  the  glorious  futuie  awaitiug  her  iu  the  Olympus  of 
nations."  {E\hi.  of  Duffeiun.) 

"  Tlie  beggared  noble  of  the  early  time  became  a  sturdy  country  gentleman ; 
poor,  but  not  wretched  ;  ignorant  of  books,  ex(  opt  jjo.'sibly  a  few  scraps  of  rusty 
La'iu  picked  up  in  a  .Jesuit  school ;  hardy  as  tlie  liardiest  woodsman,  yet  never  for- 
getting his  ([uality  o{  i^entilhonime ;  scrupulously  wearing  its  badge,  tue  sword,  and 
copying  as  well  as  he  could  the  fashions  of  tlie  court,  which  glowed  on  his  vision 
across  the  sea  in  all  the  efTulgence  of  Versailles,  and  beamed  "Nvitli  reflected  ray  from 
the  chateau  of  Quebec.  He  was  at  home  among  his  tenants,  at  home  among  the 
Indians,  and  never  more  at  home  than  when,  a  gun  in  his  hand  and  a  crucitix  on 
)iis  breast,  he  took  the  war-path  with  a  crew  of  painted  savages  and  Frenchmen 
nliuost  as  wild,  and  pounceii  like  a  lynx  from  the  forest  on  some  lonely  farm  or  out- 
lying hamlet  of  New  Engliind.  How  New  England  hated  him,  let  her  records  tell. 
The  reddest  blood-streaks  on  her  old  annals  mark  the  track  of  the  Canadian  geniil- 
homme.''^  (Parkma.-  ) 

"  To  a  traveller  from  the  Old  World,  Canada  East  may  appear  like  a  new  coun- 
try, and  its  inhabitants  like  colonists  ;  but  to  me,  coming  from  New  England,  .... 
it  appeared  as  old  as  Normandy  itself,  and  realized  much  that  1  had  lieard  of 
Europe  and  the  Middle  Ages.  Even  the  names  of  humble  Canadian  villages  affected 
me  as  if  they  had  been  those  of  the  renowned  cities  of  antiquity.  To  be  told  by  a 
habitant,  when  I  asked  the  name  of  a  village  in  sight,  that  it  is  St.  Fereole  or  St. 
Annfi,  the  Guanlian  Angel  or  the  Ho  I  if  Joseph's  \  or  of  a  mountain,  that  it  was 
Bi'anqe  or  St.  Hyar  intlie !  As  soon  as  you  leave  the  States,  these  saintly  nfi.mes 
begin.  St.  John  Is  the  first  town  you  stop  at,  and  thenceforward  the  names  of  the 
mountains  and  streams  and  villages  reel,  if  I  may  so  speak,  with  the  iutoxicii.tioa 
of  poetry,  —  Chambly,  Longueuil,  Pointe  aux  Tre>nbles,  Bart/iolofny,  etc.,  etc.,  —  as 
if  it  needed  only  a  little  foreign  accent,  a  few  more  li|uids  and  vowels  jwrchance  in 
the  language,  to  make  us  locate  our  ideals  at  once.  I  began  to  dream  of  Provence 
and  the  Tx'oubadours,  and  of  places  and  things  which  h;ive  no  existence  oa  the 
earth.  They  veiled  the  ludiat.  and  the  primitive  forest,  and  the  woods  toward  Ilud- 
fioti's  Bay  were  only  as  the  fore.Hts  of  Frarice  and  Germany.  I  could  not  at  once 
bring  myself  to  beiieve  that  th'>  inhabitants  wiio  pronounced  daily  those  beautiful 
and,  to  me,  significant  names  lead  as  prosaic  lives  as  we  of  New  England. 


1 


.1.  *rT ' 


IT  . 

:■*■.•. 


■'I 


238      Route  66. 


PICTOU  TO  QUEBEC. 


4  !> 


Clr- 


I   ' 


'•  One  of  the  triliutarieB  of  the  St.  Anne  if  nt.mcd  Ln  Rivihe  rie.  la  Rnsr,  and  far- 
ther east  are  La  Hivicre  Ue  la  BlondeUe  luul  La  Kicifre  iJe  la  Fripovne.  Their  very 
rii'idre  meiinderM  more  than  our  river.  ...  [It  is]  a  more  western  and  wilder  Arca- 
dia, metliiiiita,  than  the  world  has  ever  .seen  ;  for  tlie  (Jrecits,  with  all  tiu'ir  wood 
and  river  gods,  were  not  so  qualified  to  name  the  natural  leatures  of  a  country  as 
the  ancestors  of  these  French  Canadians  ;  and  if  any  people  iiad  a  right  to  substi- 
tute their  own  for  the  Indian  names,  it  was  tliey.  They  have  preceded  the  pioneer 
on  our  own  frontiers,  and  named  the  puiirie  for  us."   (Tuoreau.) 


On  the  question  as  to  whether  the  Canadians  speak  good  French,  Potherie  snja 
that  "  tiiey  had  no  dialect,  which,  indeed,  is  generally  lost  in  a  colony."  (.'liarle- 
voix  observed  (about  1720) :  "  The  French  language  is  nowhere  spoken  with  greater 
purity,  there  being  no  accent  perceptible."  Bougainville  adds:  "They  do  not 
know  how  to  write,  but  they  speak  with  ease  and  with  an  accent  as  good  as  the 
Parisian."  Prof,  ."^illiman  says  that  they  speak  us  good  French  as  the  common 
Americans  speak  English. 


From  the  voluminous  work  of  M.  Ramcau,  entitled  La  Franre  aux  Colonies  — 
Arnjiens  et  Caimriiens  (Paris,  1859),  we  learn  that  in  the  year  1U20  the  valley.,  of 
tlie  Suguenay,  Ottawa,  and  Lower  St.  Lawrence  shall  be  occupied  by  a  Franco- 
Canadian  nation  of  5,000,000  souls  ;  that  the  mournful  vices,  "  impoverishment  of 
intelligence,  and  corruption  of  manners,"  wliich  the  Anglo-American  wice  in  the 
United  States  has  sulTered,  shall  be  opposed  and  checked  by  the  fecund  genius  of  the 
F'c'cii  race,  and  the  "  .'scientific  and  artistic  aptitudes  of  the  Canadians,"  emanating 
cv  iment-enlightening  radiance  from  the  walls  of  tlie  Lavi.!  University  ;  that  the 
dissolute  barbarism  of  the  Americans  slmll  be  ameliorated  by  the  sweet  influences 
of  the  "Greco-Latin  idea"  of  the  Franco-Canadians;  and  that  tliat  agricultural 
and  intellectual  people,  "  the  general  and  es.'^ential  principle  of  whose  material  and 
intellectual  power  is  in  their  religious  faith  and  in  the  simplicity  of  their  manners," 
shall  profit  by  the  sad  experience  of  Old  France,  — and  under  the  conservative  influ- 
ences of  a  social  aristo<racy  shall  erect  a  New  France,  to  be  forever  illustrious  in  its 
culture  "  de  L^esprit^  la  modestie  des  maurs,  la  liberti  et  la  religion.^' 

66.   Pictou  to  Quebec.  —  The  Coasts  of  Gaspe  and  the  Lower 

St.  Lawrence. 

This  voyage  is  full  of  interest  to  the  lover  of  fine  scenery,  and  leads 
through  some  of  the  most  attractive  parts  of  the  Provinces.  Tlie  vessels 
pass  the  lofty  highlands  of  Nova  Scotia,  the  Acadian  district?  on  the 
sandy  shores  of  New  Brunswick,  the  stately  mountains  about  the  Bay  of 
Chaleur,  and  the  frowning  ridges  of  Gaspd.  Then  comes  the  ascent  of 
the  majestic  St.  Lawrence,  with  its  white  French  villages,  its  Alpine 
shores,  and  romantic  history,  terminated  by  the  quaint  medireval  towers 
of  Quebec,  "the  Walled  City  of  the  North."  The  steamers  are  large  and 
comfortable,  and  are  quite  steady  in  ordinary  seasons.  The  cabin-tables 
are  well  supplied,  and  the  attendance  is  good.  There  is  but  little  danger 
from  sea-sickness,  except  in  very  breezy  weather  (see  also  page  3). 

This  route  is  served  by  the  vessels  of  the  Quebec  Steamship  Company. 

Passengers  leave  Halifax  by  railway  every  other  Monday  morning,  and 
connect  with  the  steamship  which  leaves  Pictou  on  the  same  evening,  call- 
ing at  Charlottetown   and   Summersidc  (Prince   Edward   Island), 
Gasp^,  Father  Point,  and  Quebec,  arriving  at  the  latter  port  on  Thursday, 
and  proceeding  at  once  to  Montreal,  whei'e  she  arrives  next  morning.     He- 


,^\ 


CARLETON. 


Route  66.     239 


e,  and  far- 
Iheir  very 
ilder  Arra- 
Lhi'ir  vood 
'ountry  as 
t  to  puDsti- 
be  pioneer 


theric  snjB 
"  t'harlc- 
fith  greater 
ley  do  not 
pood  as  the 
le  couinioa 


Colonies  — 
B  valley-  of 
f  a  Franco- 
i'ljshment  of 
vace  5n  tlie 
eniu8  of  the 
'  emanating 
y  ;  that  the 
t  influences 
agricultural 
naterial  and 
r  niauncrf ," 
vative  influ- 
strious  in  its 


le  Lower 

and  loads 
['he  vest^els 
:tp  on  the 
he  Bay  of 
ascent  of 
[its  Alpine 
jval  towers 
large  and 
ibin-tablc3 
|tle  danger 
3). 

Company, 
[rning,  and 
kiing,  caW- 

I  Thursday, 
Inincr-     He- 


turning,  the  stpamer  leaves  Montreal  on  Monday,  and  Quebec  on  Tues- 
day, and  arrives  in  Pictou  on  Saturday  inrtrning.  Connections  are  made 
with  steamboats  f(»r  the  inner  jtorts  of  tlie  Bay  of  Chaleur,  at  Perc(^,  and 
travellers  may  thus  reach  the  line  of  the  Intercolonial  liailway  at  Camp- 
bellton. 

The  Baie-des-Chaleurs  Railway  runs  from  Metapedia  to  rarltnn  ;-40  M.)> 
and  is  being  extended  to  Paspebiac  (lOl)  M.),  and  (iaspe  (170  M.). 

Steamers  ply  b.  •ween  Dalhousie  and  Maria,  which  is  near  the  famojis 
salmon-fishing  grounds  of  tlie  Grand  Casea|)edia  Uiver,  long  frequented 
by  President  Arthur,  Lords  Lome,  Dufferin,  and  Lansdowne,  and  otliers. 

Halifax  to  Pictou,  see  Route  31.     St.  John  to  Shediac,  see  Route  14. 

After  leaving  Pictou  Harbor,  the  steamship  passes  out  between  Caribou 
Island  and  Pictou  Island  (sec  also  page  175),  and  enters  the  Northumber- 
land Strait.  On  the  S.  are  ttie  dark  highlands  of  Pictou  County,  among 
whose  glens  are  scattered  settlements  of  Scottish  people.  10-12  ]\L  N.  are 
tlie  low  hills  of  Prince  Edward  Island.  The  deep  bight  of  Tataraagouche 
Bay  (see  page  81)  is  passed  about  35  M.  W.  of  Pictou,  and  the  blue  and 
monotonous  line  of  the  Cobequid  .Mts.  may  be  seen  in  the  S.,  in  very  clear 
weather.  Beyond  Bale  Verte  the  steamer  passes  through  the  narrow 
part  of  the  Strait  between  Cape  Traverse  and  Cape  Tormentine,  and  the 
low  red  shores  of  Prince  Edward  Island  are  seen  on  the  r.  The  course  is 
next  laid  along  the  level  Westmoreland  coast  (see  page  59),  and  the  har- 
bor of  Shediac  is  entered. 

The  general  aspect  of  the  N.  Shore  of  New  Brunswick  is  described  in 
Route  15  (pi'.ge  60).  It  is  to  be  remembered,  however,  that  the  Gulf- 
Ports  steamships  do  not  stop  at  Richibucto,  Bathurst,  or  Campbellton. 
ILvving,  then,  described  the  coast  from  Shediac  to  Dalhousie  in  Route  15, 
the  present  route  will  follow  the  shores  of  the  great  Gaspesian  peninsula. 
The  Quebec  steamers  no  longer  visit  Carleton  and  Paspebiac. 

As  the  steamship  leaves  the  estuary  of  the  Restigouche,  the  red  sand- 
stone cliffs  of  Mn(/uacha  Point  are  passed,  on  the  1.,  beyond  which  is  the 
broad  lagoon  of  Carleton  Road.  The  beautiful  peak  of  *  Tracadiegash 
is  now  approached,  and  after  passing  the  lighthouse  on  Tracadiegash 
Point,  the  white  village  of  Carleton  is  seen  on  the  Quebec  shore.  This 
place  has  about  800  inhabitants  and  a  convent,  and  is  snugly  situated 
under  the  lee  of  the  mountains,  near  a  bay  which  is  secure  during  gales 
from  the  '.  and  E.  Immense  schools  of  herring  visit  these  shores  during 
the  springtime,  at  the  spawning  season,  and  are  caught,  to  be  used  as  food 
;tnd  for  fertilizing  the  ground.  The  village  is  enterprising  and  active,  and 
is  inhabited  chiefly  by  Acadians.  The  steamer  stops  off  the  port  if  there 
are  any  passengers  or  freight  to  be  landed. 

k'vr  Perce,  (jiabpe,  Paspebiac,  etc.,  .'^ee  Ctutunj  }f(i(jazine,  March,  ^884. 


^;  '•  ft 


'(■    ■'■lYi 


'■■■.:>"• 


^■•-11 


m. 


240       lioute  66. 


II 


I 


If 


•'^t' 


PASriCBIAC. 


I* 


"  Cnrli'ton  Is  a  pretty  town,  to  uhlcli  a  stcninrr  comrtimrs  nins  from  rnnip* 
brlltdii,  r^'ll(l^'rlll^t  tli«*  siiliimn  HtrcMiiis  in  tlic  viciiilfy  (jiiit*'  iicccs-ihli..  When  the 
Fim  uliiiH's.  its  Nvliit(>  ri>1tii<:os,  ncstiiin;  iit  tin-  toot  if  t'lo  niiijcstic  TniciHlitHMHh 
Mouiit.'iin,  j;listt'n  lil<»' siiow-lliiUt's  ii^fiiiiist  tlic  soiiilirt'  lincktriuiii  d.  imil  >;lt':iiii  out 
ill  lovi'ly  roiitriist  with  tlir  cloiid-  tliat  (djt  tlic  MiiimiU  (if  this  oiit|io.st  K'litiiu-l  of 
tin-  Alli'uhaiiy  riingi'.''    (Hai.i.o  K.) 

The  stciiiiHT  iKtw  p!jss«>>i  out  upiMi  "  tlio  uiiduliit iiip:  iiiid  VdhiptiioiiH  Uny 
of  ("liiilciir,  full  (if  loiijj;  folds,  of  l;in;^tiisliiii-^  contours,  wliiidi  tlif  wind 
I'iircssos  with  fiui-hkc  hiriith,  and  whose  softciitMl  shores  receive  tlie  llood- 
ilifl  of  the  waves  witliont  a  niiininir."  On  tlie  N.  is  C<isriij>e<fiiH'  /iay,  on 
Mhose  slmres  arc  the  Aciidian  and  Scottish  handets  of  Maria  and  New 
Kicdnnond,  (k'voted  to  fanning;'  and  I  lie  lisheries.  The  nijr^ed  peaks  ol'tho 
Tracadiejiash  ran<fe  are  seen  in  line  retrospective  views, 

A'e«'  C(<rligU'  is  near  tlu!  month  of  the  (ii-and  l»onaventure  hi\'er,  and  in 
the  capital  of  IJoiiaventure  Connly.  It  has  7<it»  inhaliitants,  and  is  eii- 
gajied  in  the  fisherii's,  havinj;' al>o  a  lew  snnuner  \isitors.  'I'iie  idnnndu's 
and  court-house  occupy  a  conspiciious  position  on  the  iiigh  iiank  wliitdi 
ovoi:looks  the  l»:iv.  'I'his  town  was  lounded  in  17^^l  liv  American  Loval- 
ists,  who  n ceived  from  the  government  one  year's  provisions,  lamls,  seeds, 
and  farmin;i-implements.  ."S  400,000  was  e.\]»ended  in  estahlishinj;  thi.s 
settlement  and   l)ouj>lastown. 

Paspebiac  ('I'/>c  IJon  Inn)  is  a  villa<;e  of  400  inliahitaiits,  situated  on 
the  N.  shore  of  the  Hay  of  Chalenr,  440  M.  from  (,)ueliec.  Jts  harbor  I.;, 
formed  by  a  line  heatdi  of  sand  '<\  M  lonir,  enrvinp  to  \\\v,  S.,  and  forminp; 
u  natural  'ireakwater  ai^ainst  the  sea  dtuMiiii easterly  ^al(!s.  'I'he  (diur(di 
and  houses  of  the  villa<i;e  are  hudt  above  tlu^  reel  (dill's  of  the  shore,  and 
present  the  neat  and  orderly  a])pearance  of  a  military  post.  On  the  line 
of  the  beatdi  are  the  n;reat  wdiite  (and  red-trinnned)  storehouses  and  ship- 
yards of  Charles  Robin  &  Co.  and  Lo  IJoutiliicr  brothers,  the  mercantile 
establishments  which  sustain  tlie  place. 

Robin  &  Co.  is  an  ancient  house  which  diitos  from  ITCiR,  and  has  its  honihpiarterH 
at  the  Isli!  of  .Jersey,  oil"  the  coa.st  of  France.  I'asiiehiiu'  was  stittleil  in  IVfiO  hy  Ciiaiiea 
Robin,  who  estabiisiied  liere  a  largo  fisliiiiji  station.  In  .hine,  177S,  tlie  place  waR 
taken  by  two  Ameritan  privateers,  wiii'di  carried  away  the  vessels  Hope  and  B(e. 
The  wluile  lleet  was  soon  aftorv.aitl  raptured  by  II.  R.  M  frigates  Huntfr  n\\i\  Pipir, 
but  Roliin  was  forx^cd  m  pa>  such  lieavy  salvage  tiiat  it  ruined  his  business.  In 
1783  le  eanic  bark  her«>  under  Kreneli  colors,  and  in  20  years  aceuinulattd  a  great 
fortune  The  firm  of  ('harU~<  Robin  <fc  Co  i.s  now  the  most  powerful  on  all  these 
roasts,  and  keejis  large  tii-ets  employed ,  sufiporting  nuniernns  villages  from  7  wealthy 
establishments.  The  ln-ads  of  the  firm  live  in  .Jersey ,  and  their  oHicers  ami  man- 
agers on  this  coast  are  forced  by  rule  to  lead  a  life  of  celibacy.  Tiiis  company  em- 
ploys 7i'0  men,  besides  17  vessels  and  151  sailors  ;  and  the  LeRontilliers  have  580 
men  and  15  vessels.  They  export  vast  quantities  of  fish  and  oil  to  tlie  West  Indies 
and  the  Mediterranean,  supplving  their  ('.inadian  posts,  in  return,  wit'i  all  needeii 
produi'ts  of  other  ronntries  r,a,spebiae  receives  If  100,000  worth  of  goods  j  early, 
and  exports  ,•;>  300,000  worth  of  *"ish.  The  l)est  lish  is  sent  to  the  Mediterranean  in 
bulk,  tlie  second  grade  goes  it.  tubs  to  Hrazil,  and  tlu'  poorest  is  sbipi)ed  in  casks 
to  the  We.«t  Indies.  The  .Ic-ey  fleet  reaches  Paspetiiae  early  in  May,  spen.is  the 
Hummer  fishing  in  the  bay  a  ad  Gulf,  and  i.i  >irns  in  December.    The  American  mar- 

Irnf     ia     t<ii  *,*^i;.k.l     I...    t-U,^    r^..>.,..      i».»     *t.„^*-     i^     <-t ....A. . I    ^X.  ^    ^*, 1~    ^r  ^l,  ^    ».. 

!»v-u    ».)    >..^.f'f/ii^-i«    ytj    4/iit-  v'<i;|/T^-/niii    in-\:».    Jit    tin-.-^u  »vaitri."^,    «tn»i  tin-  pi u^■^;c•u.^  i;i  me  nii- 

tumnal  months  are  .sold  in  Upper  Canada.     The  annual  yield  of  the  Ray  of  Chaieur 
is  estimated  at  26,000  quiutals  of  dry  codfish,  600  quintals  of  haddock,  3,000  bar- 


CAPE  DESI'AIU. 


Jioutv  CG.      21 1 


■tm  Pnriip* 
WIh'ii  tlie 

^It'MIII     (lilt 

suntlud  of 

uous  Uiiy 
till'  wiiitl 
tlu'  tlootl- 

mill  Ni'W 
aks  ol' tlio 

/er,  and  is 
mill  is  on- 
'  clmrchcH 
link  wliii'li 
•nil  Loyiil- 
iiils,  seeds, 
ishiii^  this 

/ituiiU'd  otr. 

^  liiirttor  i:. 

lid  rorniinj); 

riic  (duurli 
sliorc,  atid 

On  tlic  lino 
■;  mid  sliip- 
HU'rciiiililc 


loniliiuarUirs 
It;  \,\  Churkfl 
!('  |)laro  waR 
ue  (111(1   B<e. 
r  luul  Pipir, 
Jusinoss.     In 
llattd  a  pi-cat 
Ion  all  tlu'sc 
1)111  7  wealthy 
Irs  and  man- 
loniliany  eni- 
l>rs  have  5S0 
West  liidit'H 
li  all  ncriU'il 
](io«ls  ji-arly, 
ti'iram-an  in 
jpoil  in  casks 
spends  the 
lierican  mar- 

S  of  tliC  HVi- 

of  Chaleur 
L,  3,000  bar- 


reli  of  horrinu,  HOO  lmrr<>ls  of  salmon,  und  ITi/MlO  ^rallonR  of  covl-oil.  Tln«  flshorlea 
of  t,li(»  liav  and  (Jiilf  iii«'  valiu-d  at  ■*  ..i,()lK)  a  yi^ar,  ami  I'lnjiliiy  l/iOO  sail  df  vr-.Ht'lM 
und  lS,U(il)  iiii-ii 

In  .lanuarv  and  Ki^hnmry  tlit'  tlicinioiii.  !vr  miiihIIiik'h  sinks  to  2'»"  Imlow  wro, 
anil  tilt-  li.ty  is  ovrrl  .•  by  dark  nia>.-t'i  ol'  "  Tnot,  Miiokc  "  In  tliis  Miidn  tlm 
Aurora  ISini-aiis  is  st  -  i  !>y  iiiK'lit,  ilinniinalin^  ilif  '-vliolt'  norllirrn  liuri/,on  widt 
steady  luilli.inrt'.  in  .Inly  and  Aiijrii-I  tlic  tinTnuiimtcr  raiips  troni  tio '  lo  lOli'^', 
und  till'  air  is  liiii|irn'd  liy  rrr>li  st-a  Ipiti'/.i'S. 

The  name  fas/nhinr  means  "  liroUen  iiaiiks,"  und  the  inlialiilants  are  eaileil 
Faspy  .larks  or  I'ospillots.  .Man\  of  tin-  hits  oli'^ate  and  Jasper  ealled  '*  (Jaspe  peli- 
bles  "  are  foiind  on  this  shore  after  f  lie  niiles  of  siuin^;  and  ani  ninn,  and  are  .-ent  to 
the  jewellers  of  Lmidoii  and  (>iiehee.  It  is  suppo.sed  that  the_\  i  oiiie  I'lum  tiie  eon- 
glomerate  roeks  on  the  llesti;j,iiii(iie  llivi-r. 

Hi'VDIld  I'lispiiliiiic  illV  till'  slinri's  (if  llu|)i'.  DM  wliicli  iliiiiii'ti-i'  iiiiisscH  of 

ciipliii-fldi  are  tlimwu  uj)  I'vorv  s|iriii^.     They  are  shovrllrd  inin  \vii^;i)iis 

by  the  Caniiers  iiiid  are.  used  tu  t'crlili/c!  the  land.     'I'he  next  iioiit   id"  hi- 

terest  is  the  ilci'ii  hay  of  I'tn-t  l>tin'nl,\i  sal'e  and  \vell->iieheri'i|  havoii,  uii 

wh(»so    W.  shine   is  a    reinarkahhf   liiil,  400  Cl.  hi^ii.     Near  the   li^hiii/;- 

vili;ie;o  np  tli(»  harijor  are  deposits  ol"  oil-hearing  shale.     The  stesuner  soon 

j)ass(^s  point  M(it/iuri'iiu  (whii  h  soiiio  consider  the  N.  portal  of  the  15ay  of 

Cliali'iir),  with  I'oiiit  Miseou  on  tlir  S.  K. 

At  midniifht  on  Oet.  If),  ls;{S,  tin'  sliip  ('nlhonif  went  astnire  on  Point  Mai|iiereau, 
and  was  soon  Inniien  to  iiieces.  Her  erew,  eon.^istiii)^  <d'  i'^  men,  wa>  lost  'ri'o 
eiir;j;o  was  eomposed  of  silks,  wines,  silvei-|ilale,  and  s-peeii',  and  was  vaUied  ut 
over  !$ 400,000.     'I'lie  wieekers  oftJaspe  reeovered  rieli  treasures  from  the  wreek. 

Ncirpovt  is  t)  M.  hcyoiid  I'miit  Miiipieii'an,  and  is  inhahited  hy  UOO  Aesi- 
dian><,  who  are  devoted  to  the  lish(!ries  ;ind  to  the  pursuit  oC  the  vast  lloidis 
of  wild  jowl  whirli  resort  to  these  shores  dnriii^f  the  sprinj/,'  ami  aniiiiiiii. 
Great  and  [atth;  Palios  tire  '.easide  ha-  dels,  4  and  H  M.  liirlher  K.  4  M. 
heyond  is  (Jraml  liii'cr,  a  lari^-e  Aeadia-i  village  idnstenMl  nlioiit  the  lisli- 
iii^-est:ii)lisliinent  of  liohin  &  Co.  It  i-.  7  M.  iVom  this  point  to  (Japo 
Despair. 

<;:i|ie  Dcspnlr  was  named  by  the  Freneh  Cnf>  //'  E'^fjoir,  or  Tape  Ffope,  and  tho 

])resi'nt  name  is  either  an  An^liii/.ed  pidiiiini  iatiim  ui'  lliis  treiieli  word  or  eNe  wa.s 
(iivi'ii  in  memory  (d"  llie  terrihle  dis.ister  ot  1711  liiirin^f  that  ye;ir  (.^iieeo  Anne  sent 
a  threat  lleet,  witii  7,e()(l  soldier^,  with  orders  to  capture  liiieliee  and  oceiipy  (Janadii. 
'i'lie  Meet  wjis  under  \lniiral  Sir  llovenden  Walker,  and  the  army  was  ei)nimaiid(  d 
liy  (Jen.  Hill.  Diiriiif^  a  hlaek  fojf,  on  tiie  22il  of  Ani^iist,  a  violent  storm  uro.-i;  and 
Scattered  the  lleet  in  all  direifions,  liiirlin{(  i-i  lar).;i,'  shijis  on  tlie  terrilde  le  J;j,es  of 
I'.'S'^  Isl.ind  (see  paj.^e  '2;{;i)anil  (',i|)i!  Despair,  where  tliey  wire  lo.sl,  willi  all  on  lio.i,-d. 
l''r,i',;meiits  of  the  wrecks,  eaile  I  l^r  ,\<iii/ittiir  Anglais,  were  to  he  si  en  aloii;i  tiio 
slioie-  iinlil  a  rereiit  ilate  ;  an.l  there  wus  a  wiM  superstition  anion;^  the  lisliernien 
to  the  ell'i ct  that  soiiKil  imes,  when  the  sea  w -s  (|iiiet  an<l  e.ahii,  vast  wliite  waves 
wiuil  I  roil  inward  from  the  (JiiH',  heariiifr  a.  |i,  iiiloin  ship  crowded  with  men  in 
aiiiient  military  eostniiies.  .An  ollieer  st.iiids  on  the  how,  with  a,  whit<-  clad  woman 
oil  his  left  !iriii,  and  as  the  maddened  sur;.;!!  sweeps  the  doomed  ship  on  with  li|rht- 
niiji;  s])eed,  a  tremendous  crash  einiies,  the  cle.ir,  aj;oni/,i.'d  cry  of  ii  wom.in  swells 
over  the  (freat  voice  of  despair,  —  and  naufiht  is  seen  but  tlio  black  cliils  and  tho 
I'lvel  sea. 

.Inst  heyond  Cape  Despair  is  tlir,  r  '^porous  fishing-stution  of  (,'<t/)e.  Core, 
9  M.  from  I'crcd.  Tho  travelje;  '  id  now  h.-i  on  the  lookout  for  flio 
Porc(5  Rock  iind  Honaventnre  Mand.  "He  steamer  runs  in  between  the 
Kuck  and  the  Island,  allbrding  liue  ''iew  -  .'f  bcth. 

11  P 


1   i 


;i 


242      Route  66. 


PERCE. 


i  - .  .'i 


tSi  " 


VI 


n;  !>' 


If 


I-*  1 


The  *  Perc^  Rook  is  28^  ft.  liigli,  riainp;  with  precipitous  wiiHa  directly 
from  the  waves;  nn(^  :  nbout  500  ft.  long.  This  citjulel-likocliiViH  pierced 
by  a  lofty  arch,  through  which  the  long  levels  of  the  sea  >.  '  visible.  Small 
boats  soineiimes  traverse  this  weird  piissiigo,  under  the  itiunense  Gothic 
nrch  of  rock.  There  was  t'ornuMly  another  tunnel,  near  the  outer  point  of 
the  Ho(;k,  but  its  roof  I'ell  in  with  a  trcnieudous  crash,  and  left  a  great 
obelisk  rising  from  the  sea  beyond. 

The  Huunnit  of  the  Perc6  Rook  covers  about  two  acres,  nnd  Is  divided  into  two 
great  di.-itricts,  one  of  svliioh  is  inliiibitid  by  the  nulls,  uiid  the  cormorants  dwell  on 
the  other.  If  cither  of  these  trvspas.Nes  on  the  other's  terri  ory  (wliich  occius  every 
flfUi'ii  minutes,  at  least),  a  battle  ensues,  the  slirill  cries  of  Inuidrcds  <  r  thousanda 
of  birds  rend  tlic  air,  great  clouds  of  combatants  liovei-  over  the  iilatcau,  and  peace 
is  only  restored  by  the  retreat  of  the  invader  Wlien  the  contlict  is  between  largo 
flocks,  it  is  a  scene  wortliy  of  clo.^^e  untice,  and  sometimes  becomes  highly  exciting, 
Tile  Hock  is  at  right  angles  with  Mt.  Joli,  and  is  of  new  red  sandstone.  The  top  la 
covered  with  fine  grass. 

Many  \ears  ago  the  Ilock  was  ascended  Vjy  two  fishermen,  and  the  way  once  being 
found,  scores  of  men  clambered  u\*  by  ropes  and  carried  away  the  eggs  and  young 
birds,  fluiling  tlie  older  ones  so  tame  that  they  had  to  be  lilted  otf  the  nests.  Tliis 
vast;aviary  would  have  been  depopulated  long  ere  this,  bnt  that  the  l^erce  niagis- 
trates  piussed  a  law  forbidding  tlie  ascent  of  the  Hock.  There  are  numerons  quaint 
and  weird  legends  attached  to  this  place,  the  strangest  of  whicli  is  that  of  Le  Ginie 
de  I-  lie  Ptner,  a  phantom  often  .seen  over  the  plateau.  "  It  is  likely  that  the  founda- 
tion for  this  legend  can  be  traced  to  the  vapory  or  cloud-like  apjiearance  the  vast 
flocks  of  water-fowl  assume  when  seen  at  a  distance,  wheeling  iu  every  fantastic 
shape  tlu'ough  tlic  air,  previous  to  aliglitiug  on  tlie  summit." 

The  harbor  (X  \'>'r*'.(i  is  very  insecure,  and  is  open  to  the  N.  E.  winds.  In 
earlier  times:  •;  ]>  rovt  was  called  La  Terre  des  Tempites,  so  frequent  and 
disastrous  wore  the.  storms.  The  village  has  about  400  inhabitants,  most 
of  whom  follow  the  shore-fisheries  in  small  boats.  The  town  is  visited 
every  spring  nnd  summer  by  hundreds  of  stalwart  Jersey  lads,  sent  out  by 
the  Le  Boutillier  Brothers. 

Perce  consists  of  South  Beach,  where  are  the  white-and-red  buildings  of 
the  Robin  establishment;  and  North  Beach,  where  is  the  bulk  of  the  popu- 
lation, with  the  court-house,  jail,  and  Catholic  church.  The  two  sections 
are  separated  by  Mount  doll,  a  lofty  promontory  which  here  approaches 
Percd  Rock.  The  Episcopal  cliarch  is  a  cosey  little  Gothic  structure, 
accommodating  100  persons.  Perc^  is  "  the  Elysium  of  fishermen,"  and 
hence  arises  a  circumstance  which  detracts  from  its  value  as  a  summer 
resort,  —  when  the  shore  is  covered  with  the  refuse  parts  of  codfish,  pro- 
ducing a  powerful  and  unpleasant  odor.  It  is  said  that  even  the  potatoes 
are  found  to  contain  fish-bones. 

Back  of  Perce  is  the  remarkable  *  Mount  St.  Anne,  with  its  bold  and 
massive  .square  top  rising  1,230  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  a  distance 
of  70  M.  over  the  water.  This  eminence  may  be  ascended  without  great 
trouble,  and  from  its  summit  is  obtained  one  of  the  noblest  views  in  the 
Maritime  Provinces.  It  includes  many  leagues  of  the  savnge  mountain- 
land  of  Gasp^,  extending  also  along  the  coast  from  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  to 
Gasp^  Bay  and  Ship  Head.    But  the  marine  view  is  the  most  attractive 


s  directly* 
i'*  pierced 
lie.  Sninll 
se  Gothic 
;r  point  of 
ft  a  great 


3(1  into  two 
its  dwell  on 
tcurs  every 
r  thousand!) 
,  and  jicuce 
twet'ii  largo 
ily  oxcitiiiR 
The  top  l8 

y  once  being 
1  and  young 
nests.  This 
*eroe  mngis- 
;rous  quaint 
of  Le  Ginie 
;  the  founda- 
nce  the  vast 
ery  fantastic 


^vinds.  In 
equcnt  and 

mtP,  most 
11  is  visited 
sent  out  by 

uildings  of 
if  thcpopu- 
wo  sections 
qiproaclies 
structure, 
•men,' 


and 
a  summer 
odlish,  pro- 
le  potatoes 

ts  bold  and 

•a  distance 

hiout  great 

lews  in  the 

mountain- 
IChaleur  to 

attractive 


PERCfi. 


Rtmte  66.      243 


Rnd  embraces  many  leagues  of  the  Gulf  of  St,  Lawrence,  with  its  great  fish- 
ing-llects  and  scpiadrons  of  small  boat^.  It  overlooks  Bonaveiiture  and 
Perc6  Rock.  A  fine  view  is  also  obtained  from  the  highway  near  French 
Town,  including  a  vast  area  of  the  Guif,  the  bird-colonies  on  top  of  the 
Rock,  Point  St.  Peter,  and  Harry  Houd,  n\  ith  its  conspicuous  Catholic 
church.  The  walk  around  the  monntiiin  to  the  corner  of  the  beach  is  full 
of  interest;  md  the  road  tl  )iiG;h  t'-»  hills  t'  Gaspd  is  picturescjue,  though 
rf>ugh,  leading  by  Corny  Beai  , 
Mt.  St.  Anne  is  also  known  as  .Vf  .  .i 
red -sandstone  slopes  are  found 
crystals. 
*Bonaventure  Island  forms  .. 


;i     I  profound  mountain-gorge. 

the  Table  Roulante.     Upon  its 

,  ''  ,»er,  agate,  and  flue  quartz 

itural  breakwater  before  the 
Perc^  shores,  and  is  surrounded  by  detj.  aannels.  Itis2iM  from  tlie  main- 
land, and  the  passage  around  the  island  in  a  small  boat  alTorrls  a  pleasant 
excursion.  Bonaventure  is  2J^  M.  long  and  ^  M,  wide,  and  i.;  a  vast  pile 
of  red  conglomerate  rock,  with  a  line  of  clifls  3 -500  ft.  high,  facing  the 
Gulf  over  50  fathoms  of  water.  There  are  about  300  French  Catholics 
on  the  shores,  connected  with  the  fishing-establishment  of  LeBoutillier 
Brothers.  The  island  was  formerly  the  property  of  Capt.  Duval,  a  brave 
mariner  of  the  Channel  Isles,  who,  in  the  privateer  Vulture^  swept  the 
coasts  of  France  during  the  Napoleonic  wars.    He  is  buried  on  Mount  Joli. 

'•  Perce  is  one  of  the  curiosities  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  If  one  should  beli<'vc  all  the 
fontastio  stories,  to  which  tradition  adds  its  prestige,  tluit  rest  about  this  formidable 
rock,  thrown  forward  into  a  ceaselessly  surging  and  often  stormy  sea,  like  a  fearless 
defiante  from  tlie  shoal  to  the  abyss,  it  could  only  be  approached  with  a  mysterious 
dread  mingled  with  anguish.  Perco  proper  is  a  village  of  200  firesides,  established 
on  a  promontory  that  seems  to  guard  the  St.  Lawrence  :  this  promontory  is  not  lofty, 
nor  does  it  compare  with  our  northern  mountains ;  but  it  is  wrinkled,  menacing, 
full  of  a  fierce  grandeur  ;  it  might  be  said  that  the  long  battle  with  the  ocean  haa 
revealed  to  it  its  strength  and  the  power  which  it  holds  from  God  to  restrain  the 
waves  from  passing  their  appoint^id  bounds.  It  is  an  archer  of  the  Middle  Ages, 
coven'd  with  iron,  immovable  in  his  armor,  and  who  receives,  invulnerable,  all  the 
blows  of  the  enemy.  In  face  of  the  Atlantic,  which  has  beaten  it  with  tempests 
through  thousands  of  centuries,  trembling  under  the  eternal  shower  of  the  waves, 
but  iuunovable  as  a  decree  of  heaven,  gloomy,  thoughtful,  enduring  without  mur- 
nuir  the  wrathful  torrents  that  inundate  it,  bent  downward  like  a  fallen  god  who 
expiates  in  an  eternity  the  arrogant  pride  of  a  single  day,  Perc(>  fills  us  at  once  with 
a  sorrowful  admiration  and  a  sublime  pity."    (Aktuur  Buiks.) 

Perc(5  was  visited  by  Carticr  in  1534:,  and  thereafter  became  a  celebrated  fishing- 
station  for  the  French  Heets.  The  coast  from  Canso  to  Cape  Rosier  was  granted 
soon  after,  and  on  its  reversion  to  the  Crown  this  site  was  bestowed  on  De  Fron.sac, 
who  founded  a  permanent  village  here,  while  over  500  transient  fiehermen  made  it  a 
?unuuor  rendezvous.  Bishop  L;tval  sent  the  Franciscans  here  in  1673  to  look  after 
the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  people,  and  they  erected  a  chapel  at  Perce  and  the 
Ciiiirch  of  St  Claire  on  Bonaventure  Island.  In  1090  the  place  was  taken,  with  all 
its  vessels,  by  two  British  frigates,  whose  crews  sacked  and  burnt  all  the  houses  at 
I'crcti  and  Bonaventure,  destroyed  the  churches,  and  fired  150  gunshots  through 
the  pictiu'e  of  3t.  Peter.  In  1711  another  naval  attack  was  made  by  the  British, 
and  the  French  ships  Hiros  imd  Vermandois  were  captured  in  the  harbor.  In  1776 
a  de-;perate  naval  combat  took  place  oil  Perc«^  Rock,  bctwicn  the  Ameriran  pri- 
vateers that  had  dev.astnted  the  shores  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  British  war- 
vessels  WolfamX  Diligence.  Two  of  the  American  vessels  were  sunk  within  cauDOU* 
shot  of  the  Rock. 


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WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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244      Route  66. 


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After  leaving  her  anchornge  off  Perc^  the  steamship  runs  N.  across  the 
Dpening?  of  M:il  Vmy,  and  at  9  M  out  passes  Point  St  Peter,  with  its  fish- 
ing-vilhige.  The  course  is  next  laid  to  the  N.  W.  up  Gaspe  Bay,  with  tlie 
fatal  strand  of  the  Grand  Greve  on  the  r.  To  the  1.  is  Doufjlastoum,  on 
the  broad  lagoon  at  the  mouth  of  tlie  St.  Jolm  River  (famous  for  salmon). 
This  town  was  laid  out  by  Surveyor  Douglas,  and  is  inhabited  by  Irish 
and  French  people.  The  vessel  now  steams  in  through  the  nan*ow  strait 
between  the  grand  natural  breakwater  of  Sandybeach  and  the  N.  shore, 
and  enters  the  *  Gasp^  Basin.  The  bay  is  20  M.  long  and  5  M.  wide, 
and  the  basin  is  a  secure  and  land-locked  harbor  at  its  head.  As  the 
steamer  rounds  the  lighthouse  on  Sandybeach,  beautiful  views  are  pre- 
sented of  the  broad  haven,  with  the  North  River  Mts.  to  the  W. 

"  The  mountains  of  Gaspe  are  fair  to  behold, 
With  their  fleckings  of  shadow  and  gleamings  of  gold." 

Gasp^  {Gulf  House)  is  a  town  of  600  inhabitants,  beautifully  situated 
between  the  mountains  and  the  sea,  and  fronting  on  the  S.  W.  arm  of  the 
basin.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  county  and  a  free  port  of  entry,  and  is  de- 
votbd  to  the  fisheries,  having  several  whaling-ships  and  a  large  fleet  of 
schooners.  The  Gaspe  codfish  are  preferred,  in  the  Mediterranean  ports, 
to  the  Newfoundland  fish,  because  they  are  not  so  salty.  The  chief 
establishment  here  is  that  of  the  LeBoutilliers,  who  have  also  a  fine 
mansion  near  ihe  village.  Petroleum  has  been  found  here,  and  wells  7  -  ^  00 
ft.  deep  have  been  sunk  by  two  companies.  Gasp^  is  visited  by  2-300 
city  people  every  summer,  for  the  sake  of  its  picturesque  scenery,  cool 
and  sparkling  air,  and  the  conveniences  for  yachting  and  for  fishing.  The 
York  and  Dartmouth  Rivers  empty  into  the  basin,  and  are  famous  for 
their  game-fish.  The  adjacent  shores  are  fertile  and  are  thickly  settled, 
and  the  town  itself  is  rapidly  advancing  in  importance.  On  a  hill  to 
the  S.  is  Fort  Rammy,  a  line  of  guns  among  the  trees.  This  is  the  fii-st 
point  N.  of  Newcastle  where  the  steamer  is  moored  to  a  wharf.  Fort- 
nightly mail-packets  run  from  Gaspd  to  Esquimaux  Bay,  on  the  Labrador 
coast  (see  page  2-30). 

•'What  a  glorious  sight!  Imagine  a  bay  20  M.  long  ending  in  a  basin  where  a 
fleet  of  a  thousand  vessels  could  be  sheltered.  On  right  and  left,  two  rivers,  which 
are  parted  by  the  port,  sweep  around  the  amphitheatrical  shores ;  hills  here  and 
there  of  savage  outline  or  covered  with  rounded  lawns  ;  below,  a  little  line  of  piers, 
fishing- vessels,  schooners  and  some  brigs  swinging  their  slackened  sails  in  the  light 
breeae  which  blows  from  the  shores  ;  sometliing  wild,  fresh,  and  vigorous,  like  the 
first  spring  of  a  great  creation  The  GaspcJ  Basin  has  traits  of  the  giant  and  of  the 
infant ;  it  astonishes  and  charms ;  it  has  a  harmony  at  once  delicate  and  striking.' 
(Arthur  Buies.) 

The  Indiana  of  Qasp6  were  distinguished,  in  a  remote  age,  for  unusual  advances 
In  civilization.  They  knew  tlie  jwints  of  the  compjiss,  traced  maps  of  their  country, 
observed  the  positions  of  the  stars,  and  worshipped  the  symbol  of  the  cross.  They 
intornied  the  early  Jesuit  n)issionaries  that  in  fir  distant  ages  they  were  scourged 
by  a  fatal  pestilence,  until  a  venerable  man  landed  on  their  shore,  and  arrested  the 
progx'ess  of  the  disease  by  erecting  the  cross  (see  P^ke  Lgclkrc's  Nouvellt  Relation  (it 


\ 


GASPE\ 


Jioute  G6.      245 


dTances 
:ountrv, 
They 
courged 
sted  the 
ation  (it 


la  Gaspisie,  1376).  It  is  supposed  that  this  mysterions  visitor  was  a  Norseman.  The 
name  Gds/iii  meaiia  ''  land's  end,"  one  of  it<  couipouent  parts  being  found  also  iu 
the  aboriginal  words  Mala-ga.sli,  Tracadie-gash,  etc.  The  warlike  tribes  on  this 
shore  were  formerly  distinguished  for  their  fierce  and  victorious  forays  into  the  re- 
mote lands  of  the  Montaignais  and  Esquimaux. 

Prof,  llafn,  the  great  Danish  arclia>ologist,  has  advanced  a  theory  to  the  effect 
that  CJaspe  was  a  fi-shing-station  of  tlie  Norse  vikings  in  the  lltli,  i2th,and  IStli 
centuries.  It  is  supposed  that  it  was  visited  iu  150(3  by  the  Spanish  mariner  Vela.«>co, 
who  ascended  tije  St.  Lawrence  for  200  leagues,  or  else  by  Stefano  Gomez,  who  was 
sailing  from  Spain  to  Cuba  in  1525,  but  was  blown  far  from  liis  course,  and  entered 
the  Gulf  of  .St.  Lawrence.  There  is  an  old  Castiliau  tradition  that  the  gold-seeking 
Spaniards,  finding  no  precious  metals  here,  said,  "  Aca  naua  "  ("  There  is  nothing 
here",!.  Tliis  oft-repeated  phrase  became  fixed  in  the  memory  of  the  Indians, 
though  it  was  not  comprehendeii ;  and  when  Cartier  came,  they  supposed  Inm  to  be 
of  the  same  people  as  the  previous  European  visitors,  and  endeavored  to  excite  liis 
interest  by  repeating  the  words,  "  Aca  n;lda,  Aca  nuda."  He  thought  that  they 
were  giving  him  the  name  of  their  nation  or  country,  and  so,  according  to  this 
puerile  tradition,  arose  the  name  of  C.\nada.  Another  theory  of  the  derivation  of 
the  name  was  given  by  the  early  New-Englanders  :  "  New  England  is  by  some  af- 
firmed to  be  an  island,  bounded  on  the  north  with  the  River  Canada  (so  called  from 
Monsieur  Cane)."  {JossELY^i^s  New  Enqlancrs  Rarities  Discovered,  1Q72.)  "From 
this  lake  nortliwards  is  derived  the  famous  River  of  Canada,  so  named  of  Monsieur 
de  Cane,  a  French  Lord,  who  first  planted  a  colony  of  French  in  America."  (Mor- 
ton's New  English  Canaan,  1G32.) 

The  generally  received  account  of  the  origin  of  the  name  Canada  is  that  it  is  an 
Indian  compound  word.  Caugh-na-waugh-a  means  "  the  village  of  the  rapid,"  its 
first  syllable  being  similar  to  that  of  the  Indian  word  Caugh-na-daitgky  '*  village  of 
huts"  (also  of  ('aitg/i-yu-ga,  or  Cayuga,  and  Cai/gh-na-daugh-ga,  now  Oauan- 
dai'^ua),  which  has  been  euphonized  into  "  Canada."  Wuen  iJraut,  the  Mohawk 
chieftain,  translated  the  Gospel  of  St.  Matthew  into  his  own  language,  he  always 
put  Canada  for  ''  a  village." 

In  April,  1534  (being  then  in  his  fortieth  year),  the  bold  and  sagacious  Jaques 
Cartier  set  sail  from  ancient  St.  Malo  ("  tiirust  out  like  a  buttress  into  the  sea, 
strange  and  grim  of  aspect,  breatliiiig  war  from  its  walls  and  battlements  of  ragged 
stone,  —  a  stronghold  of  privateers,  the  home  of  a  ra<!e  whose  intrat'tabie  and  de- 
fiant independence  n  ither  time  nor  change  has  subdued").  He  was  under  the 
patronage  of  Pliilippe  de  Brion-Chabot.  Admiral  of  France,  and  was  sent  forth  to 
reconnoitre  a  new  route  to  Catiiay,  for  the  groat  advantage  of  European  conuiierce. 
It  was  also  thought  that  in  the  new  realms  beyond  the  sea  the  Catholic  Church 
might  make  such  conquests  as  would  requite  her  for  the  great  schisms  of  Luther  and 
Calvin  and  the  Anglican  Church.     The  result  has  nearly  ju.stiHed  the  hope. 

The  intrepid  voyager  traver.<ed  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  and  stretched  across  to 
the  Baiedes  C/ialeurs,  which  was  entered  on  the  Uth  of  July,  and  received  its  name 
from  the  intense  heats  which  the  mariners  encountered  there.  He  then  landed  at 
Gaspc,  and  took  possession  of  the  country  in  the  name  of  his  Church  and  King  by 
erecting  a  cross,  30  ft  high,  adorned  witii  the  tieur-de-lis.  Here  he  met  a  company 
of  warriors  from  Quebec,  campaigning  against  the  natives  of  this  region,  and  car- 
ried two  of  them  to  France.  They  were  introduced  to  all  the  splendors  of  Paris 
and  the  court  of  Francis  I.,  and  in  the  following  year  returned  with  Cartier  and 
piloted  his  fleet  up  the  St.  Lawrence  to  their  home  at  Stadacona  (Quebec). 

"  Twenty  vessels  were  laden  with  stores,  food,  building  implements,  guns,  and 
ammunition  ;  nearly  150  pieces  of  ordnance  were  stowed  away  in  the  different  holds, 
to  be  mounted  upon  the  walls  of  Quebec  and  other  forts ;  the  decks  were  crowded 
wirh  emigrants,  male  and  female;  priests  were  there,  burning  with  religious  zeal; 
and  everything  looked  hopeful  for  their  success.  The  whole  fleet  was  put  under  the 
conunand  of  Si.  do  lloqueniont,  a  French  Admiral ;  and  full  of  hope  and  ex|)ectatioa 
they  set  .sail  from  France  in  the  month  of  April,  1627."  This  staUily  fleet  was  over- 
taken by  a  storm  in  the  Gulf,  and  took  refuge  in  Gaspe  Bay,  where  they  were  boldly 
attacked  by  Captain  Kirke"s  English  squadron  of  3  vessels.  Kirke  summoned  the 
immensely  superior  French  fleet  to  surrender,  hut  De  Iloquemont,  thougli  unprepared 
for  battle,  and  hampered  witli  freight  and  non-combatants,  sent  back  a  spirited  refusal. 
The  liirl^es  tbea  sailed  boldly  into  the  liostile  fleet,  and  after  raking  the  Admiral's 


fl 
ll 

i 


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2''i 


m 


in;- 


m 


fcl 


ml 


24G      Route  67.   THE  LOWER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

■hip,  carried  It  by  bnardinK.  The  French  resisted  but  foebly,  and  the  whole  pquad- 
nni  fell  iiitt>  the  bold  Hriton's  hands.  Ho  burnt  10  ves.wels,  and  livighted  tlic  otlitrs 
with  the  grand  train  of  artillery  and  the  other  Htoren,  witli  which  lie  returned  to 
England'  (Muiiiiplain  was  lett  in  despair,  ut  Quebec  ;  uud  the  Kirkes  were  burnt 
in  eJtlgy  in  the  IMace  de  (.Jreve,  at  I'aris. 

OiiK|»»>  wjus  lionored,  in  lti(i3,  ijy  tlie  sojourn  of  the  brave  old  liaron  Dubois  d'Av- 
augour,  some  time  Governor  of  New  France.  From  this  point  he  sent  his  ('eU;l)rated 
nienioriul  to  Colbert,  the  French  Prime  Minister,  after  he  had  been  deposed  from 
office  through  tlie  intluenre  of  IJishop  liaval  and  the  Jesuits.  Hence  lie  sailed  to 
France,  and  soon  met  u  soldier's  death  in  the  Croatian  fortress  of  Zrin,  whicli  ho 
was  defending  against  the  Turks. 

In  tlio  year  17G0  Conunodort!  Byron's  powerful  fleet  entered  Gaspt  Ba.sin  and 
captured  the  village.  The  French  frigate  La  Cat/iannn  wa.s  in  the  harbor,  but 
was  soon  taken  and  destroyed  by  fire  Jtlauy  >ears  ago  the  Gasp6sian  peninsula  was 
erected  into  a  province,  and  the  seat  of  government  was  located  at  this  town.  But 
the  number  of  inhabitants  was  not  enough  to  warrant  the  expeuEu  of  a  vicc-rcgal 
court,  and  the  peninsula  was  reauuexed  to  Quebec. 

In  leaving  Gaspd  Basin  the  steamship  passes  the  beaches  of  the  N. 
shore,  lined  with  whale-huts  and  fish-stages,  and  then  runs  to  the  S.  E. 
down  Gasp6  Bay.  *  Cape  6asp6  is  7^  M.  N.  of  Point  St.  Peter,  and 
fronts  the  Gulf  with  a  line  of  sandstone  clifl's  692  ft.  high.  Off  the  S.  E. 
p^»int  there  was  formerly  a  statue-like  rock  100  ft.  high,  called  La  Vieille 
(the  Old  Woman),  but  it  has  been  thrown  down  by  the  sea.  The  Indians 
named  this  rock  Gasej'ion,  whence  the  name  Gaspe,  which  is  now  applied 
to  the  great  peninsula  between  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  Two  leagues  beyond  Cape  Gaspe  the  steamship  passes  Cape  Hosier, 
and  eutei's  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 


67.  The  Lower  St.  Lawrence. 

"  The  most  interesting  object  In  Canada  to  nie  was  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  known 
for  and  wide,  and  for  centuries,  as  the  Great  River.  Cartier,  its  discoverer,  sailed 
up  it  as  far  as  Montreal  in  l£i35,  nearly  a  century  before  the  coming  of  the  Pil- 
grims ;  ajid  1  have  seen  a  pretty  accurate  map  of  it  so  far,  containing  the  city  of 
'  Hoclielaga' and  the  river  '  8aguenay,' in  Ortelius's  Tkeatrum  Orbis  Terraruw, 
printed  at  Antwerp  in  1575.  in  which  the  famous  cities  of  '  Norumbega '  and  '  Or- 
einora'  stand  on  the  rough-blocked  continent  where  New  England  is  to-day,  and 
tlic  fabulous  but  unfortunate  Isle  of  Demons,  and  Frislant,  and  others,  lie  off  and 
on  in  the  unfrequented  sea,  some  of  them  prowling  near  wliat  is  now  the  course  of 
the  Cunard  steamers.  It  was  famous  in  Europe  before  the  other  rivers  of  Nortli 
America  were  heard  of,  notwithsUiuding  that  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  is  said  to 
have  I'een  discovered  fii'st,  and  its  stream  was  reached  by  I)e  Soto  not  long  after ; 
but  the  St.  Lawrence  liaJ.  attracted  settlers  to  its  cold  shores  long  before  the  Missis- 
sippi, or  even  the  Hudson,  was  known  to  the  world.  The  first  explorers  declared 
that  tlie  summer  in  tliat  country  was  as  warm  as  France,  and  they  named  one  of 
the  bays  in  tlie  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  the  Bay  of  Clialeur,  or  warmtli ;  but  they 
Baid  nothing  about  the  winter  being  as  cold  as  Greenland.  In  the  MS  account 
of  Cartier's  second  voyage  it  is  called  '  the  greatest  river,  without  comparison, 
that  is  known  to  have  ever  been  s^een.'  The  savages  told  liiin  that  it  was  the 
*  Client  in  du  Canada''  (the  highway  to  Canada), '  which  goes  so  far  that  no  man 
hath  ever  been  to  the  end,  that  they  had  heard.'  The  Saguenay,  one  of  its  tribu- 
tiiries,  is  described  by  Cartier  in  1535,  and  still  more  particularly  by  Jean  Alphonse 
In  1542,  wlio  adds  :  '  I  think  that  this  river  comes  from  the  sea  of  Cathay,  for  in 
this  place  there  issues  a  strong  current,  and  there  runs  here  a  terrible  tide.'  The 
early  explorers  saw  many  whales  and  other  sea  nionstors  f-«r  up  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Champlain,  in  hi-i  map.  represents  a  whale  spouting  in  the  harbor  of  Quebec,  860  M. 
from  what  may  be  called  the  mout-ii  of  the  river ;  and  Charlevoix  took  his  reader  to 


In  pquad- 
Ijc  otlicni 
unu'd  to 
re  burnt 

ola  d'Av- 
ekbrutcd 
scd  from 
sailed  to 
which  bo 

la.sin  and 
rbor,  but 
iRula  was 
wn.  But 
?ice-rcgal 


f  the  N. 
he  S.  E. 
ter,  nnd 
he  S.  E. 
a  Vieille 
Indians 
ir  npplied 
-nwrence 
I  Rosier, 


:e,  known 

^er,  sailed 
the  Pil- 
[le  city  of 
"errarum , 
land  '  Or- 
-day ,  and 
lie  off  and 
Icourge  of 
of  North 
lis  Buid  to 
ig  after ; 
le  Missis- 
declared 
'd  one  of 
|but  they 
account 
iparifon, 
wafi  the 
no  man 
lits  tribu- 
Llphon^e 
ly,  for  in 
le.'    The 

:,360M. 
eader  to 


CAPE   ROSIER. 


.Route  67.      247 


the  nummit  of  Cape  Diamond  to  see  the  •  porpoises,  white  as  snow,'  sportinf)^  on  the 
nurfaco  of  tlie  harbor  of  (iuebec.  In  Champliiin's  day  it  was  commonly  called  '  the 
Oreiit  Itiver  of  Canada.'  More  than  one  nation  has  claimed  it.  In  Ogllby's  *  Amer- 
ica of  1G70,'  in  the  map  Nuvi  Ue.lffi,  it  is  called  *  Da  (Jrooto  Rivier  van  Niew  Ne- 
derlandt  '  It  riHCH  near  another  father  of  water.'',  the  Mi.'<.slHsippi,  issuing  from  a 
remarkable  spring  far  up  in  the  woods,  called  Lake  Superior,  1,0(J<)  M.  in  circum- 
ference ;  and  several  otlusr  springs  there  are  thereabouts  which  feed  It.  It  makes 
such  a  noi.se  in  its  tumbling  down  at  one  place  as  is  heard  all  round  the  world. 
Uouchette,  the  Surveyor-General  of  the  Canadas,  calls  it  '  the  most  sph-ndid  river 
on  the  globe '  ;  says  that  it  is  2,000  M  long  (more  recent  geographers  make  it  4  -f)00 
M.  longer  ) ;  that  at  the  Riviere  du  Sud  it  is  11  M.  wide  ;  at  the  I'aps  of  jVlatane,  26 ; 
at  the  Seven  Islands,  73;  and  at  its  mouth,  from  Capo  Ro.sier  to  the  Ming.an  Settle- 
ments in  Labrador,  90  M.  wide.  It  hiis  much  the  largest  estuary,  regarding  both 
length  and  breadth,  of  any  river  on  the  globe.  Perhaps  Charlevoix  describes  the 
8t  Lawrence  truly  as  the  most  navinnble  river  in  the  svorld.  Retween  Montreal 
and  Quebec  it  averages  2  M.  wide.  The  tide  is  felt  as  far  up  as  Three  Rivers,  432 
M.,  which  is  as  far  as  from  Boston  to  Washington.  The  geographer  Ouyot  ob- 
serves that  the  Maranon  is  3,000  M.  long,  and  gathers  its  waters  from  a  surface  of 
1,500,(X)0  square  M.  ;  that  the  MLssis-sippi  is  also  3,<XX)  M  long,  but  its  basin  covers 
only  8-900,000  square  M. ;  that  the  St.  Lawrence  is  1,8(X)  M.  long,  and  its  basia 
covers  1,000,000  square  M.  ;  and  speaking  of  the  lakes,  he  adds  :  *  These  vast  fresh- 
water seas,  together  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  cover  a  surface  of  nearly  100,000  square 
M.,and  it  has  been  calculated  that  thry  contain  about  one  half  of  all  the  fresh 
water  on  the  surface  of  our  planet.'  Pilots  say  tiiere  are  no  soundings  till  160  M. 
up  the  St.  Lawrence.  McTaguart,  an  engineer,  ob.serves  that  '  the  Ottawa  is  larger 
tlum  all  the  rivers  in  Great  Britain,  were  they  running  in  one.'  The  traveller  Grey 
writes  :  '  There  is  not  perhaps  in  the  whole  extent  of  this  immense  continent  so  fine 
an  approach  to  it  as  by  the  river  St.  Lawrence.  In  the  Southern  States  you  have, 
in  genenil,  a  level  country  for  many  miles  inland  ;  here  you  are  introduced  at  once 
into  a  majestic  scenery,  where  everything  is  on  a  grand  scale,  —  mountains,  woods, 
lakes,  rivers,  precipices,  waterfalls.'  We  h.ive  not  yet  the  data  for  a  minute  com- 
parison of  the  St.  L.'iwrence  with  the  South  American  rivers;  but  it  is  obvious  that, 
taking  it  in  connection  with  its  lakes,  its  estuary,  and  its  fills,  it  easily  bears  off 
the  palm  from  all  the  rivers  on  the  globe."  (Freely  condensed  from  Thoreau's 
A  Yankee  in  Canad'i.) 


"  Bien  loin  de  scs  eourbis,  sous  Tombre  des 
platiinos, 
L'Arabe  au  blanche  humous  qui  suit  les 
cnravanes 
Sur  \c3  sables  errant 

Sceouvre  nioins  joyciix  son  oasis  humide, 
ue  les  Canndiens  sous  la  snison  turricle 
Leur  flcuve  ijumt-Laurent. 


A  nous  ses  champs  d'azur  et  ses  fratches 

retraites, 
Les  ilots  couronnos  dc  mourantes  aigrettes, 

Lc-9  monts  uudacieux. 
Les  arflmes  niquiints  quo  la  nier  y  dfipose 
Et  soa  grand  horizon  oil  votrc  ceil  ge  repose 

Comme  1  gtoile  aux  cieux. ' 

L.  J.  C.  FiSET. 


•*  Sur  ces  hords  enchantus,  notre  mere,  la 

France, 
A  laisse  <le  sa  ploire  iin  immortcl  sillon, 
Precipitai\t  ses  (lots  vers  rocOan  inuuen.^c, 
Le  noble   Saint-Laurent  rcdit  eucor  son 

nom. 

"  Salut,  6  ma  belle  patric  ! 
Salut,  0  borda  <l'i  Saint-Laurent 
Terre  que  I'etraiiger  eiivic, 
1  Et  qu  il  regrette  eu  la  quitt*mt. 

Ueureux  qui  pent  passer  sa  vie, 


Toujonrs  fldele  &  tc  servir ; 
Et  dans  tes  bras,  mere  cherie. 
Pent  londreson  dernier  soupir. 

Salut.  6  clel  de  ma  patrie  I 
Salut.  6  noble  Saint-Iiaurent  I 
Ton  nom  dans  mon  ame  attendrie 
Repand  un  parfuin  enivrant. 
O  Canada,  nls  dc  la  France, 
Qui  te  couvrit  de  ses  bicnfaits, 
Toi,  notre  amour,  notrc  espcrance, 
Qui  pourratoublier  jamais  'i" 

O.  CbAmazik. 


Cape  Rosier,  "the  Scyllaof  the  St.  Lawrence,"  is  6  M.  beyond  Cape 
Gasp^,  and  is  the  S.  portal  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  whose  mouth  at 
this  point  is  96  M.  wide.  At  the  end  of  the  cape  is  a  stone  lighthouse 
tower,  112  ft.  high,  wiih  a  fixed  light  (visible  16  M.)  and  a  fog-horn. 

The  hamlets  of  Grand  Greve,  Griffin's  Cove,  and  Cape  Rosier 
are  in  this  vicinity,  and  are  inhabited  by  French  people,  who  are  de- 


m 

^1 

.^•1 

Vfc. 

l<  <1'l' 


248      Route  G7. 


CAPE  MAGDELAINE. 


pendent  on  the  rishing-establishment  of  William  Ilyinan  &  Sons,   of 
Gasyn'. 

'*  The  coast  between  Cape  Rosier  and  Cape  Chatte  is  high  and  hold,  free 
from  dangers,  and  destitute  of  harbors,"  and  is  lined  with  a  majestic  wall 
of  mountains  composed  of  slate  and  graywacke.  They  are  covered  with 
forests,  and  afibrd  succes  ions  of  noble  views,  sometimes  of  amphithe- 
atrical  coves,  sometimes  of  distant  vistas  of  blue  peaks  up  the  long  gorges 
of  the  rivers. 

"  How  can  it  be  that  men  inha))it  this  harsh,  ariJ,  rough,  almost  hateful  country, 
whicli  extends  from  Capo  Chatte  to  the  (Jaspe  Uasin  ?  One  can  scarcely  imagine. 
Yet,  as  you  t^ee,  here  and  there  apitear  parcels  of  tilled  land,  liouses  scattered  along 
the  hanks,  and  little  churches  at  various  points." 

'•  The  peninsula  of  Gaspd,  the  land's  end  of  Canada  towards  the  E. ,  from  its  geo- 
logical formation  of  shale  and  limestone,  presenting  their  upturned  edges  toward 
the  sea  and  dipping  inland,  forms  long  ranges  of  beetling  clitTa  running  down  to  a 
narrow  strip  of  beach,  and  affording  no  resting-place  even  to  the  fishermen,  except 
where  they  have  been  cut  down  by  streams,  and  present  little  coves  and  bays  open- 
ing back  into  deep  glens,  affording  a  view  of  great  rolling  wooded  ridges  tliat  stand 
rank  after  rank  behind  the  great  sea-cliff,  though  with  many  fine  valleys  between." 

7  M.  N.  W.  of  C:ipc  Rosier  the  settlement  at  Griffin'' s  Core  is  passed ;  and 
5  M.  farther  on  is  Fax  Rirer  (Cloridorme),  a  settlement  of  600  persons,  with 
one  of  the  Isle-of-Jersey  (ishing-establi->hments,  a  large  Catholic  church, 
and  a  court-house.  The  cod  and  mackerel  fisheries  are  followed  in  the 
adjacent  waters,  and  large  American  fleets  are  often  seen  off  the  port. 
The  grand  highway  from  Quebec  ends  here,  but  a  rugged  road  runs  down 
to  Gaspe  in  17  M.  The  inhabitants  are  nearly  all  French.  16  M.  farther 
W.  is  the  haven  called  Great  Pond,  24  M.  beyond  which  is  Cape  Magde- 
laine  (red-and-white  revolving  light,  visible  15  -  20  M. )  at  the  mouth  of  the 
River  Magdelaine,  the  home  of  some  of  the  wildest  legends  of  this  region. 

*'  Where  is  the  Canadian  sailor,  familiar  with  this  coast,  who  has  not  heard  of  the 
plaintive  sounds  and  doleful  cries  uttered  by  the  Braillard  ile  la  Mugdelaine  ? 
Where  would  you  find  a  native  seaman  who  would  consent  to  spend  a  few  days  by 
himself  in  thii  locality,  wherein  a  troubled  spirit  seeks  to  make  known  the  torments 
it  endures?  Is  it  the  soul  of  a  shipwrecked  mariner  asking  for  Christian  burial  for 
its  bones,  or  imploring  the  prayers  of  the  church  for  its  repose  ?  Is  it  the  voice  of 
the  murderer  condemned  to  expiate  his  crimes  on  the  very  spot  which  witnessed 
its  commission  ?  ....  B'or  it  is  well  known  that  Gasp6  wreckers  have  not  alwa\3 
contented  themselves  with  robbery  and  pillag(>,  but  have  son  etii/es  sought  conceal- 
ment and  impunity  by  making  away  with  victims,  —  convinced  that  the  tomb  is 
silent  and  reveals  not  its  secrets."  The  Abb6  Casgruin  attributes  these  weird 
sounds  to  the  fate  of  a  priest  who  refused  to  christen  a  child  who  afterwards  was 
lost  by  dying  unbaptized.  The  conscience-stricken  priest  faded  away  to  a  skeleton, 
and  the  sound  of  his  moaning  has  ever  since  been  heard  off  these  dark  shores.  An- 
other legend  tells  that  a  terrible  shipwreck  occurred  at  this  point,  and  that  the  only 
soul  that  reached  the  shore  was  a  baby  boy,  who  lay  wailing  on  the  beach  through- 
out the  stormy  night.  "  Where  La  Magdelaine  runs  into  the  Gulf,  horizontal  laj  ers 
of  limestone,  fretted  away  all  around  their  base  by  the  action  of  the  tides  and 
waves,  a.ssunic  the  nioi^t  fantastic  shapes,  —  here  representing  ruins  of  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, there  forming  hollow  caverns  into  which  the  surf  rolling  produces  a  moan- 
ing sound,  like  an  unquiet  spirit  seeking  repose."  The  stKinge  wailing  which  ia 
heard  at  certain  scrisoiis  along  this  shore  is  otherwise  referred  to  the  rush  of  the 
wind  through  the  pine-trees  ou  the  cape,  whose  trunks  grate  together  with  a  harsh 
creaking. 


CAPE  CHATTE. 


inoan- 
hich  is 

of  the 
b  harsh 


Jioute  67.      249 

Pleurae  Point  is  12  M.  from  Cape  Magdelninc,  and  Is  near  the  remote 
hamlet  of  Mont  Louis.  Lines  of  wild  clill's  front  the  shore  for  the  i  ext  28 
M.,  to  Cape  St.  Anne,  near  wliich  is  tlio  French  Catholic  village  of  tit. 
Anne  des  Monfs,  which  lias  250  inhabitants  and  a  consulate  of  Italy.  Tiie 
adjacent  waters  abound  in  mackerel,  cod,  halibut,  and  hcrrinjy,  and  great 
quantities  of  salmon  and  trout  are  caught  in  the  River  St.  Anne.  Tiie 
stately  peaks  of  tlie  ***  St.  Anne  Mountains  arc  seen  on  the  S.,  com- 
tnenciiig  12  M.  S.  W.  of  Cape  St.  Anne  and  running  In  a  S.  W.  course  for 
40  M.,  nearly  parallel  with  the  river  and  20-25  M.  inland.  These  moun- 
tains are  the  most  lofty  in  Canada,  and  are  visible  for  80-90  M.  at  sea, 
in  clear  weather.  The  chief  peak  is  14  M.  from  Cape  Chatte,  and  is 
3,973  ft.  high. 

*'  All  those  who  come  to  New  France  know  well  enough  the  mountains  of  Notre 
Dame,  because  the  pilots  and  «ailor»  being  arrived  at  that  part  of  ttio  great  river 
which  is  opposite  to  those  high  nionntains,  baptize  ordinarily  for  aport,  the  new 
passengers,  if  they  do  not  turn  a-side  by  some  present  the  inundation  of  thiH  buptiHOi 
which  is  made  to  flow  plentifully  on  their  heads."    (Lalemant,  1648.) 

Cape  Chatte  is  15  M.  N  W.  of  Cape  St.  Anne,  and  sustains  a  white 
flashing  light  which  is  visible  for  18  M. 

Cape  Chatt«  was  named  in  honor  of  the  officer  who  sent  out  the  expedition  of 
1603,  under  l*ontgrave  and  Lescarbot.  His  style  wa«  Eyniard  de  Chaste,  Knight 
of  Malta,  Commander  of  Lormetan,  Grand  Master  of  the  Order  of  St.  Lazarus,  and 
Governor  of  Dieppe. 

Somewhere  in  this  broad  reach  of  the  river  occurred  the  chivalrous  naval  battle 
between  the  English  war-vessel  Abigail  and  the  French  ship  of  Emery  de  Caen  (son 
of  Lord  de  la  Motte).  The  Ahignil  was  commatided  by  Capt.  Kirke,  and  was  sailing 
against  Tadousac,  when  she  was  attacked  (June,  1629)  by  De  Caen.  A  running  fight 
of  several  hours  ensued,  until  a  fortunate  cannon-shot  from  the  Abigail  cut  asvay 
a  mast  on  the  French  vessel  and  compelled  her  to  surrender.  The  loss  on  each 
ship  was  considerable. 

The  reach  of  the  St.  Lawrence  next  entered  is  about  35  M.  wide,  and 
on  the  N.  shore  is  Point  de  Monts  (see  page  233).  It  is  33  M.  from  Cape 
Chatte  to  Matane,  in  which  the  steamer  passes  the  hamlets  of  Dalibaire 
and  St.  Felicite.  In  1688  the  Sieur  Riverin  established  a  sedentary  fish- 
ery at  Matane,  devoted  to  the  pursuit  of  codfish  and  whales.  Sometimes 
as  many  as  50  whales  were  seen  at  one  time  from  the  shore.  This  branch 
of  the  fisheries  has  now  greatly  declined.  Matane  is  a  village  of  300  in- 
habitants, devoted  to  farming  and  lumbering,  and  is  visited  by  Canadian 
citizens  on  account  of  the  facilities  for  sea-bathing  on  the  fine  sandy 
beach.  There  is  also  good  fishing  for  trout  and  stl^mon  on  the  Matane 
River.  The  remarkable  peaks  called  the  Caps  of  Matane  are  to  the  S.W., 
in  the  great  Gaspesian  wilderness.  In  clear  weather,  when  a  few  miles  E. 
of  Matane,  and  well  out  in  the  river,  Mt.  Cvmmis  may  be  seen,  40  M. 
distant,  S.  W.  by  W.  ^  W.,  like  an  island  on  the  remote  horizon. 

The  shore  is  now  low,  rocky,  and  wooded,  and  runs  S.  W.  22  M.  to 
Petit  Metifi,  which  was  populated  vith  Scottish  families  by  its  .seigneur. 
4  M.  from  this  point  is  the  station  of  St.  Octave,  on  the  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way. M^tis  is  a  little  way  W.,  and  's  occupied  by  260  French  Catholics 
11* 


m 


k 


m 


250      Route  67. 


RIMOUSKI. 


and  Scotch  Presbyterians.  It  has  a  long  government  wharf;  and  the 
people  are  engaged  also  in  the  pursuit  of  black  whales,  which  are  sought 
bj'  schooners  equipped  with  harpoons,  lances,  etc.  N.  of  Metis,  across 
the  river,  is  the  great  peninsula  of  Mnnicimnyan^  at  the  mouth  of  the 
rivers  Manicouagan  and  Outarde,  abounding  in  cascades. 

The  steamship  comes  to  off  Father  Point,  where  there  is  a  lighthouse 
and  telegraph-station  (for  news  of  the  shipping),  and  a  hamlet  of  100  in- 
habitants. Here  the  outward-bound  vessels  discharge  their  pilots.  Kear 
this  place  are  the  hamlets  of  St  Luce  and  St.  Donat,  and  at  St.  Flavie, 
16  M.  N.  E.,  the  Intercolonial  Railway  reaches  the  St.  Lawrence  (see  page 
70).  A  few  miles  S.  E.  is  Ml.  Camille,  which  is  2,036  ft.  high.  Father 
Point  (PotWe  au  Pert)  was  so  named  because  the  priest  Henri  Nouvel 
wintered  there  in  1663.  Canada  geese,  ducks,  and  brant  are  killed  here 
in  great  numbers  during  the  long  easterly  storms. 

St.  Germain  de  Rimouski  {Hotel  St.  Laurent;  Rimouski  Hotel)  is  6  M. 
from  Father  Point,  and  is  an  incorporated  city,  an  important  station  on 
the  Intercolonial  Railway,  and  the  capital  of  Rimouski  County  and  of  a 
Rtman-Catholic  diocese.  It  has  1,200  - 1,500  inhabitants,  with  a  handsome 
cathedral,  a  Catholic  college,  convent,  episcopal  palace,  court-house,  and 
other  public  buildings.  The  Canadian  government  has  built  a  large  and 
substantial  wharf  out  to  the  deep  channel,  and  a  prosperous  future  is  ex- 
pected for  the  young  city.  Many  summer  visitors  come  to  this  place, 
attracted  by  its  cool  air  and  fine  scenery. 

Rimouski  was  founded  in  1688,  and  in  1701  a  missionary  was  sent  here,  who 
founded  a  parish  which  has  now  grown  into  a  strong  bishopric.  *'  Rimousl^i,  tli« 
future  metropolis  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  a  little  city  full  of  promise  and  fur- 
rowed already  by  the  rails  of  the  Intercolonial,  will  have  its  harbor  of  refuge  where 
the  great  ocean-steamers  will  stop  in  passing,  and  will  attract  all  the  commerce  of 
the  immense  region  of  the  Metapedia,  the  future  granary  of  our  country."  The 
Rimouski  River  is' famous  for  its  abundance  of  trout. 

Barnaby  Island  is  low  and  wooded,  and  3  M.  long,  sheltering  the  harbor  of 
Rimouski.  It  was  known  by  its  present  name  in  1629,  wiien  the  licet  of  the  Kirkes 
assembled  here.  From  1723  to  1767  it  was  the  home  of  a  pious  French  hermit,  who 
avoided  women  and  p;ussed  most  of  his  time  in  his  oratory.  Some  say  that  he  was 
wrecked  off  these  shores,  and  vowed  to  Heaven  to  abide  here  if  he  was  saved  ;  others, 
that  he  had  been  disappointed  in  love.  In  his  last  hours  he  was  visited  by  people 
fK>m  Rimouski,  who  found  him  dying,  with  his  faithful  dog  Ucking  his  chilling 
face. 

Blc  Island  was  formerly  called  Le  Pic,  but  was  named  St.  Jean  by  Cartier, 
who  entered  its  harbor  in  1585,  on  the  anniversary  of  the  decapitation  of  St.  John. 
It  WHS  included  in  the  scheme  of  D'Avaugour  and  Vauban  (in  the  17th  century)  for 
the  defence  of  Canada,  and  was  intended  to  have  been  made  an  impregnable  mari- 
time fortress,  sheltering  a  harbor  of  refuge  for  the  French  navy.  But  this  Mont  St. 
Michel  of  the  New  World  never  received  its  ramparts  and  artillery.  The  place  was 
taken  by  Wolfe's  British  fleet  of  200  ships,  June  18,  1759  ;  and  when  the  Trent  affair 
threatened  to  involve  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  in  war,  in  1861,  British 
troops  were  landed  at  Bic,  on  the  main  shore,  from  the  ocean-steamship  Persia, 
and  were  carried  hence  in  sleighs  to  Riviere  du  Loup.  Near  this  point  is  V Islet 
att  3/assar.»'c,  where,  According  to  tradition,  200  Miomac  Indians  were  once  sur- 
prised at  night  by  thi  Iroquois,  while  slumbering  in  a  cavern.  The  vengeful  enemy 
silently  filled  the  cave's  mouth  with  dry  wood  and  tiien  set  it  on  fire,  shooting  the 
unfortUiiHte  Micniacs  as  they  leaped  through  the  flame".  105  of  the  latter  were 
slain,  and  it  is  claimed  tlutt  their  bones  strewed  the  islet  until  witliia  a  few  years. 


TROIS  PISTOLES. 


Hcmte  67.      251 


and  the 
i  sought 
,  across 
li  of  the 

jhthouse 
r  100  in- 
\.  Near 
Flavie, 
see  page 
Father 
[  Nouvel 
led  here 

!)  is  6  M. 
tation  on 
and  of  a 
andsome 
mse,  and 
arge  and 
ire  is  ex- 
lis  place, 


here,  who 
uski,  the 
and  fur- 
gc  where 
nierce  of 

l-y."     The 

Iharbor  of 

Ihe  Kirkes 

■mit,  who 

lat  he  was 

others, 

by  people 

chilliug 

Cartier, 

[St.  John. 

itury)  for 

|ble  iiiai'i- 

Mont  St. 

[place  was 

rent  affair 

,  British 

Persia, 

rislet 

ince  fiur- 

j1  enemy 

>tinK  the 

Itter  were 

years. 


fite.'C^oile  da  Bio  (two  boarding-houses)  is  a  prosperous  French  vil- 
lage of  600  inhabitants,  with  a  good  harbor  and  a  large  and  ugly  church. 
It  is  9  M.  from  Rimouslii,  and  is  surrounded  by  fine  scenery.  Tiie  Bay 
of  Bic  is  "large  enough  to  be  majestic,  small  enough  to  be  overlooked  in 
one  glance;  a  shore  cut  into  deep  notches,  broken  with  flats,  capes,  and 
beaches;  a  background  of  mountains  hewn  prodigally  from  the  world's 
material,  like  all  the  landscapes  of  our  Canada."  The  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way was  carried  through  this  region  at  a  vast  expense,  and  sweeps  around 
the  flank  of  the  mountain,  200  ft.  above  the  village,  affording  beautiful 
views.  Wonderful  mirages  are  seen  off  this  port,  and  out  towards  Point 
de  Monts.  The  highlands  immediately  over  Bic  are  nearly  1,300  ft.  high; 
and  the  bay  receives  two  rivers,  which  descend  in  cascades  and  rapids 
from  the  neighboring  gorges.  As  the  steamship  passes  the  lighthouse  on 
Biquette  Island^  the  remarkable  and  varied  peaks  of  the  mountains  to  the 
S.  will  attract  the  attention  by  their  fantastic  irregularity.  Between  Bic 
and  Trois  Pistoles,  but  not  visible  from  the  river,  are  tlie  new  French  vil- 
lages of  St.  Fabien,  among  the  mountains;  St.  Mattliieu,  with  its  great 
quarries  of  red  stone  for  the  Intercolonial  Railway ;  and  St.  Simon,  near  a 
pretty  highland  lake. 

The  rocky  islets  of  Rosade  are  2  M.  off  the  shore  of  Notre  Dame  dcs  Anp:es,  and  are 
decorated  with  a  large  cross,  in  memory  of  a  marvellous  escape.  Some  30  years  ago 
the  St.  Lawrence  froze  fort)  M.  out  from  the  p.-vrish,  and  many  htmdreds  of  seals 
were  discovered  on  the  ice.  The  people  gathered  and  went  out  to  slay  those  strange 
visitors,  hut  the  ice  suddenly  broke  adrift  and  was  whirled  away  down  the  stniam. 
There  appeared  no  hope  of  escape  for  the  40  men  on  the  outer  floes,  which  were 
now  i  M  from  the  shore.  Their  families  and  friends  bade  them  an  eternal  farewell, 
and  the  village  priests,  standing  at  the  water's  edge,  gave  them  final  absolution  in 
preparation  for  the  approaching  catastrophe.  But  even  while  they  were  kneeling 
on  the  ice,  a  bold  mariner  launched  a  tiny  skiff  from  the  shore  and  crossed  the 
widening  belt  of  tumultuous  waters,  touclie*  the  crumbling  edges  of  the  floes,  and, 
after  many  trips  back  and  forth,  succeeded  in  landing  every  one  of  the  men  upon 
the  isle  of  Rosade.  TUence  they  passed  easily  to  the  mainland,  and  afterwards 
erected  a  cross  on  Rosade,  as  a  token  of  their  gratitude. 

Trois  Pistoles  (two  good  hotels)  is  a  thriving  village  of  650  inhab- 
itants, situated  inside  of  Basque  Island  (5  M.  from  the  Rosades),  and  near 
valuable  deposits  of  limestone.  There  are  two  Catholic  churches  here, 
whose  construction  involved  a  litigious  contest  which  is  still  remembered 
in  Lower  Canada.  The  beauty  of  the  marine  scenery  in  this  vicinity  has 
induced  several  Quebec  gentlemen  to  build  summer  cottages  here. 

There  is  a  well-founded  tradition  that  in  the  year  1700  a  traveller  rode  up  to  the 
bank  of  the  then  unsettled  and  unnamed  river  and  asked  the  Norman  fi.-;herman, 
who  was  tending  his  nets  near  his  rude  hut,  what  he  would  charge  to  ferry  him 
across.  "Trois  pistoles"  (three  ten-franc  pieces),  said  the  fisher.  "  What  is  the 
name  of  this  river?  "  asked  the  traveller.  "  It  has  no  name  ;  it  will  be  baptized  at 
a  later  day."  "  Well,  then,"  said  the  traveller,  "name  it  TVois  Pistoles-''^  The 
river  is  now  famous  for  its  fine  trout-fishing. 

"  That  portion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  extending  between  the  Saguenay  River  and 
Goose  Island  is  about  20  M.  wide.  The  spring  tides  ri-'^e  and  fall  a  .iistance  of  IS  ft. 
The  water  is  salt,  but  clear  and  cold,  and  the  channel  very  deep.  Here  may  be  feen 
abundantly  the  black  seal,  the  white  porpoise,  and  the  black  whale."  The  white 
porpoise  yields  an  oil  of  the  best  quality,  and  its  bkiu  makes  good  leather. 


'^{f^ 


:.'i!i- 


4 


252      Route  67. 


KAMOURASKA. 


The  Gulf-Ports  steamship  does  iiot  stop  between  Father  Point  anJ 
Quebec,  but  the  villnges  descrll)e(l  in  this  itiuernrv  ma}'  be  visited  from 
Quebec;  those  on  the  S.  shore  by  railway,  and  St.  I'aul's  Bay,  Murray 
Bay,  RiVi«^i-o  du  Loup,  and  Rimouski  by  river-steamers.  Tlio  N.  shore 
from  Capo  Tourmente  to  the  SafruoiiMy  is  described  in  Route  72. 

The  vessel  steams  up  by  Green  Idand^  which  is  6  -  7  M.  long,  and  shel- 
ters the  large  manufacturing  villngp  of  hh  IVrfc,  whence  fine  butter  is 
sent  to  Quebec.  On  the  r.  is  Red  Idnnd,  with  its  tall  stone  lighthouse,  off 
which  is  a  ligl  tship.  Cacouna  and  Riviere  du  Loup  (see  Route  72)  are 
next  passed,  on  the  1.,  and  the  vessel  runs  W.  with  the  three  steep  islets 
called  the  Brandy  Pots  (.Pots-a-l'enn-de-rie)  on  the  r.  The  S.  islet  bears 
a  fixed  light;  the  N.  islet  is  150  ft.  high,  of  vesiculated  conglomerate  in 
which  almond-shaped  bits  of  quartz  are  imbedded.  In  war-time  merchant- 
ships  wait  off  the  Brandy  Pots  for  their  convoying  frigates.  N.  of  these 
islets  is  Hare  Island,  which  is  about  10  M.  long,  and  has  extensive  salt 
marshes,  on  which  herds  of  cattle  are  kept.  On  the  1.  are  now  seen  the 
iive  remarkable  islets  called  The  Pilgrims,  about  li  M.  from  the  S.  shore 
and  4i  M.  in  aggregate  length.  The  Lonr/  Pllf/rim  is  300  ft.  high  and  par- 
tially wooded,  and  is  marked  by  a  lighthouse,  180  ft.  above  the  river. 
The  Kamouraska  Islands  are  6  M.  farther  VV.,  and  over  them  is  seen  the 
pretty  village  of  Kamouraska  {Albion  Hotel),  with  its  great  Church  of 
St.  Louis  and  Congregational  Convent.  The  river-water  at  this  point  is  as 
salt  as  the  sea,  and  the  village  was  the  chief  summer  resort  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  before  Cacouna  arose. 

'•  Who  does  not  know  Kamouraska  ?  Who  does  not  know  that  It  is  a  charming 
villaRc,  briglit  and  picturesque,  bathing  its  feet  in  the  crystal  of  the  waters  of  the 
river  like  a  naiad,  and  coquettishly  viewing  tlie  reflections  of  its  two  long  ranges  of 
white  houses,  ....  so  near  the  river  that  frdni  all  the  windows  the  great  waves  may 
be  contemplated  and  their  grand  voices  heard  ?  On  all  sides,  except  towards  the  S., 
the  horizon  extends  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  and  is  only  bounded  by  the  vast  blue 
curtai  ,  of  the  Lauren  tides.     At  the  N.  E.  the  eye  rests  on  a  group  of  verdant  isles, 

like  a  handful  of  emeralds  dropped  by  the  angel  of  the  sea ThcFc  isles  are  the 

ftvorite  resort  of  the  strangers  who  visit  Kamouraska  There  they  fish,  or  bathe, 
or  seek  other  amusements.  Le  piqne'Uique  is  much  in  vogue  there,  and  the  truest 
joys  are  felt." 

5*.  Paschal  (700  inhabitants)  is  5  M.  from  Kamournska,  on  the  Grand  Trunk 
Bail  way. 
'    •  "  Bel  endroit,  Saint-Paschal,  par  sa  croupe  onduleuse, 

Ses  couteaux,  ses  vallons,  sa  route  einueuse  ! 
C'est  la  Suisse  ou  I'Auvergne  avec  leurs  gais  chalets, 
Leurs  monts,  leurs  pres  en  pente  et  leurs  jardins  coquets." 

Beyond  Kamouraska  the  steamer  passes  Cape  Piable,  and  on  the  N. 
shore,  22  M.  distant,  are  the  bold  mountains  about  Murray  Bay  (see 
Route  72).  On  the  level  plains  to  the  S.  is  seen  the  tall  Church  of  St. 
Denis,  with  its  attendant  villiige;  and  beyond  Point  Orignaux  is  the  vil- 
lage of  Riviere  Quelle,  famous  for  its  porpoise-fisheries.  Near  this  point 
is  the  quaint  Casgrain  manor-house,  now  over  a  century  old. 


was 


This  parish  is  named  for  Madaui  Houel,  wife  of  Comptroller-General  Houel,  who 
is  captured  here  by  Indians  in  the  17th  century.    Near  the  beach  is  a  rock  which 


olnt  and 

ted  from 

,  Murray 

N.  shore 

nnd  shel- 
butter  is 
louse,  off 
te  72)  are 
ecp  islets 
slet  bears 
mernte  in 
nerchant- 
I.  of  these 
nsive  salt 
V  seen  the 
le  S.  shore 
li  and  par- 
the  river. 
^  seen  the 
Z!hurch  of 
point  is  as 
on  the  St. 


a  charming 
liters  of  the 
g  ranges  of 
f  waves  may 
lards  the  S., 
lie  vast  blue 
rdant  isles, 
isles  are  the 
,  or  bathe, 
the  truest 

[and  Trunk 


Ion  the  N. 

Bay  (see 
Wch  of  St. 

is  the  vil- 
Ithis  point 


IhoucI,  who 
1  rock  which 


ST.  ANNE  DE  LA  POCATlfiRE.     Route  67.      253 

bears  the  plain  impress  of  three  snow-shoes,  and  formerly  had  the  marks  of  human 
feot  and  hands.  In  h'M  the  priest  of  Kiviere  Quelle  led  his  parishioners,  and  drove 
back  the  New-Englaiiders  of  Sir  Williuni  Phipps's  fleet.  Back  among  the  hills  are 
the  humlets  of  St.  Onisime  and  St.  Pacome. 

St.  Anne  de  la  Focati^re  (two  hotels)  is  a  large  and  prosperous  town, 
72  M.  below  (Quebec,  with  3,000  inliiibitunts,  a  weekly  paper  (La  Gazette 
des  CamjMifjnes),  and  a  convent.  *'  Nature  has  given  to  St.  Anno  cluirra- 
ing  shores,  laden  with  foliage  and  with  melody,  ravishing  points  of  view, 
and  verdant  thickets,  fitted  for  places  of  meditation."  St.  Anne's  College 
is  a  stately  pile  of  buildings  with  pleasant  surroundings  and  a  sumptuous 
chapel.  It  has  30  professors  (ecclesiastics)  and  230  students,  and  is  main- 
tained in  a  high  state  of  cfliciency.  The  parks  cover  several  acres,  and 
the  museum  is  well  supplied.  St.  Anne's  Agricultural  School  and  Model- 
Farm  is  connected  with  the  college,  and  has  6  professors  (zootechny,  rural 
law,  etc.).  The  view  from  the  dome  of  the  college  is  of  great  extent  and 
beauty. 

As  the  steamer  passes  St.  Anne  the  frowning  mass  of  Mt.  Lboulements 
is  seen  on  the  N.  shore.  A  few  miles  beyond  St.  Anne  the  hamlet  of  St. 
Jtoch-rles-Aulnnies  is  passed,  on  the  l,  and  still  farther  to  the  W.  is  St. 
J  can-Port -J  oli^  a  pretty  little  vilhige  about  which  is  laid  the  scene  of 
De  Gaspe's  popular  .romance,  "  Les  Anciens  Canadiens."  The  Isle  aux 
Coudres  is  far  away  towards  the  N.  shore.  The  course  is  laid  in  by  the 
islet  called  the  Stone  Pillar^  on  which  there  is  a  lighthouse,  and  H  M. 
further  W.  is  the  insulated  rock  of  the  Wood  Pillar.  The  large  and  pros- 
perous village  of  L'l8let(  1,000  inhabitants)  is  seen  on  the  1.  Goose  Island 
is  passed  on  the  r.,  and  is  connected  with  Crane  Island  {V  Isle  aux  Grues) 
by  a  long  alluvial  meadow,  which  produces  rich  hay,  the  total  length 
being  11  M.  Fine  sporting  is  enjoyed  here  in  the  spring  and  autumn, 
when  great  flocks  of  snipe,  plover,  and  wih!  ^reese  visit  these  shores  for  a 
breeding-place.  There  is  a  settlement  of  about  150  persons  on  Crane 
Island,  whence  are  obtained  noble  views  of  Cape  Tourmente. 

During  the  French  regime  these  islands  (Les  Isles  de  Ste  -Marguerite)  were  erected 
into  a  seigniory  and  granted  to  an  officer  of  France.  Ho  built  a  uia^jsive  stone  house 
on  Crane  Island,  and  was  afterwards  kept  there,  in  rigorous  captivity,  by  Madame 
de  Granville.  She  olainied  that  she  was  his  sister,  and  that  he  was  insane ;  but  this 
report  was  doubted  by  the  people  of  the  S.  shore,  and  the  island  was  regarded  with 
da'ad.    She  kept  him  in  close  durance  for  many  years,  until  at  last  ho  died. 

Beyond  the  S.  .shore  village  of  Cap  St.  Ignace  (400  inhabitants)  the 
steamer  passes  St.  Thomas,  the  capital  of  Montmagny  County.  This  town 
has  1,650  inhabitants,  and  carries  on  a  large  local  trade.  The  College 
Montmagny  is  located  here,  and  there  is  also  a  convent  and  a  large  and 
conspicuous  church.  The  broad  white  band  of  a  cascade  is  seen  at  the 
foot  of  the  cove,  where  the  Riviere  du  Sud  falls  30  ft.  On  the  r.,  beyond 
St.  Thomas,  is  seen  a  cluster  of  picturescjue  islets,  over  which  the  massive 
Cape  Tourmente  frowns. 


''it 


m 


i 


254     Houu  67. 


GUOSSH   ISLE. 


I 


*!'  Is 

;              1 

'         i 

1 

^1 

vO 

wffi 

'                 1 

1:'  II' 

4-m 

\                 \ 

••  At  length  th»)y  npy  huj(e  Touniu'iitc,  itiillen-l)rnw«'d, 
Uatliu  his  biiUI  tbri'liuitd  in  a  iiiiH^lii^  cloud  ; 
Ttlu  Tltuii  lit'  tlif  lot't.v  ni|ii>s  tliat  (fU'iiiii 
III  loiiK  Kiict't'.-Hioii  cliisvii  tlif  iiii^lit.v  htrciitu  ; 
Wlii'ii,  Id  !  OriiMiiM  i-iiuTp-H  to  tin'  >i){lil, 
Ami  \M)titls  uiid  iiiituldwn  tloiit  ill  lii|uid  li;;lit ; 
Uiidt!  Natiiitt  iliill's  luT  HiiviiKi'  iiioiiiilaiii  drcM, 
Ami  all  her  Nt«'iiiiicsM  iikIim  fit  Iovi'Hiu'.xn. 
Uii  I'ltliiT  liaiid  .'•trctrli  flt'lds  ot  riilitHt  Kn>eii, 
\V  lih  j;littfriii(<  villano  H|iiiT.s  ami  ^^nivi.s  lit'twccn, 
And  .sniiw-wliito  cotH  adorn  tli«>  luitiU'  pliiin.'' 

Orosse  Isle  loniujrly  aiipcrtaiiKMl  t(t  tin*  rrsiilines,  and  is  2^  M.  long. 
On  its  graywai'ke  kidgt's  is  tlu!  great  (Quarantine  of  Canada,  where  enii- 
grant-shiprt  aro  detained  until  tlioronglily  inspoetod  and  purified.  Tho 
island  is  a  vast  toinli,  so  many  have  l)een  the  emigrants  who  have  reached 
these  shores  only  to  die,  poisoned  in  the  flltiiy  and  crowded  ships,  poorly 
fed  and  rarely  ministered  unto.  The  Quarantine-station  is  occupied  by 
medical  and  police  forces,  and  is  under  a  rigid  code  of  rules. 

The  next  town  is  lifrtliitv,  an  ancient  French  parish  of  400  inhabitants, 
W.  of  which  is  Hellechasso  Island,  composed  of  high,  steep,  and  bare  gray- 
wacke  rocks.  On  the  N.  are  K'eanx  Island  (150  ft.  high)  and  Madame 
Island,  both  of  which  are  covered  with  trees.  *S7.  Vtilier  is  beyond  Helle- 
chasse,  and  is  a  place  of '200  inhaliitants,  near  which  large  deposits  of  bog 
iron-ore  have  been  found.  The  Isle  of  Orleans  (sec  I'onto  71)  is  now 
approached,  on  the  r.,  and  over  it  is  seen  the  peak  of  Mt  St.  Anne. 
Nearly  opposite  St.  .lohn  (on  the  Orleans  shore)  is  St.  Michel,  a  lunil)er- 
working  town  of  700  inhabitants,  in  whose  spacious  church  are  some 
paintings  for  which  a  high  value  is  claimed:  St.  Clara,  by  Mitiilfu(f)  ; 
St.  Jerome,  Boucher ;  the  Crucifixion,  lionianelli ;  the  Death  of  the  Vir- 
gin, Gouly ;  St.  Bruno,  Phtli/>j)e  de  Champa <)ne ;  the  Flagellation,  Chally. 
6  M.  beyond  St.  Michel  is  Beaumont,  a  village  of  600  inhabitants,  oppo- 
site Patrick's  Hole,  on  the  Orleans  shore.  The  settlements  now  grow 
thicker  on  either  shore,  and  in  about  6  M.  the  steamship  passes  the  W. 
end  of  the  island  of  Orleans,  and  opens  the  grandest  **view  on  the  route. 
On  the  r.  is  the  majestic  Montmorenci  Fall,  on  the  1.  the  rugged  heights 
of  Point  Levi  and  St.  Joseph,  and  in  front  the  stately  cliffs  of  Quebec, 
crowned  with  batteries,  and  flowering  into  spires. 


J'' 


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re  cnii- 
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reached 
,  poorly 
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ibitnnts, 

Miuluiuo 
11(1  l^elle- 
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5t.  Anne, 
liunbev- 
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urilh(f)  ; 
the  Vir- 
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its,  opvo- 
ow  grow 
es  the  W. 
he  route. 
.  heights 
Quebec, 


_a 


QUEBEC. 

I.  Catholic  Cathedral  . 

£.3 

2.  Anglican          ,, 

E.4. 

3.  Wesleyan  Church  .   . 

E.3. 

4.  Presbyterian  Church 

E.4. 

5.  St.  John  (Oath.)  „  .  . 

C.3. 

6.  St.  Matthew       .,     . 

D.3. 

7.  St.  Sauveur        ,,  .  . 

A.  2. 

8.  St.  Roch              „  .  . 

C.2. 

9.  Notre  Dame  des 

Victoires    ..... 

F.4. 

10.  Archbishop's  Palace  E.3- 

II.  Heiyjinary 

E.3. 

12.  Laval  University   .  . 

F.3. 

13.  Hotel  Dieu  Convent . 

E.3. 

14.  Ursuline              „     . 

E.4. 

15.  Gray  Sisters       „    . 

D.3. 

16.  Congregational  „     . 

C.2. 

17.  General  Hospital   .  . 

B.2. 

18.  Marine         „         .  . 

C.I. 

19.  Morrin  College.  .  .  , 

E.3. 

20.  Kent  Gate 

D.3. 

21.  Court  House 

E.4. 

22.  Crown  Lands  Dep.    . 

E.4. 

23.  High  School  .... 

E.4. 

24.  Governor's  Garden 

E.4. 

25.  Custom  House  . 

F.3. 

26.  Champtain  Market 

.  F.4. 

27.  Jail 

.  B.6. 

38.  Wolfe's  Monument 

.  B.6. 

2^.  American   Consulate  F.3. 

30.  St.  John's  Gate  .  • 

D.3. 

31.  St.  Louis       „      .  ■ 

D.4. 

32  Prescott       „      .  .£F-4. 

33,  Hope             „      ■  . 

.  E.3. 

34.  Palace          „      .  •  • 

E.3. 

35.  St.  Louis  Hotel  .  .  .  E.4. 

36.  Stadacona  „  .  .  .  E.3. 
37  Parliament  Building  D.  4. 
38.  Post  Office E.3. 


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QUEBEC. 


Route  68.      255 


88.   tluebec. 

Arrival.  — If  the  traveller  h^s  much  bagp;:ip;e,  it  is  best  to  take  a  carriage  or 
the  hotul  ouuiibus  to  the  Upper  Town.     The  aiL&.lif  is  uot  adipted  for  carrying  lug- 

Hotels  — The  *St.-Louis  Hotel,  near  the  Th.fForin  Terrace,  acroniinndates  BOO 
guests,  at  ••f?2.5i)  to  ^i«c5.rjO  a  day,  Tlie  liusst'll  Hoii.-e,  lu-ar  by,  is  iinJtT  tlic  same 
ni  inai^i'ineiit,  at  lower  rates.  The  Kioroiico,  on  tfr.-Jolm  Strcor,  is  ke;>t  In  I'l'iija- 
uiin  Trudi'i.  The  Mountain-llill  House,  on  Mouiitain-lliil  ."Tieet, 

and  Blanchard's  Hotel,  in  the  l^osver  Town,  opposite  Notre  Dame  des  Victoires,  are 
second-class  houses,  charj^injj;  about  S  1.50  a  day. 

There  are  several  ;j;ood  lio  irdinj^-house.s  in  the  Upper  Town,  among  which  are 
tho-e  of  the  .Misses  Leonard,  3  St.  Louis  .St.  ;  .Mrs,  McUonoU,  38  St.  Louis  St  ;  Mhs 
Lane,  G5  St.  Anno  i*t. ;  Dennis  O'llare's,  39  St.  Genevieve  St.  ;  Mrs.  Escali*  re's,  20 
Mt.  Oarmel.  Comfortable  quarters  may  be  obtained  at  the.se  houses  for  about  $iO 
a  week. 

Carriages  in  every  variety  may  be  procured  at  the  livery-stables,  and  large 
numbers  of  them  are  kept  at  the  stands  near  the  St.  Louis  Hotel,  in  front  of  the  Ca- 
thedral, and  beyond  St.  John's  Gate.  The  carriages  in  the  Lower  Town  are  less  eie- 
gint  and  much  less  expensive  tl)an  those  within  the  walls.  Tiie  rates  for  excursions 
ill  the  .suburbs  in  summer  are  from  ;:?3  to  §4  for  1-3  persons  (to  Montmorenci 
Falls,  Loretta,  Cap  Rouge,  etc.).  During  the  autumn  the  rates  are  reduced.  Tiio 
ca/(?r/j''-drivers  of  the  Lower  Town  usually  demand  $2  for  carrying  1-2  persons  to 
the  outer  suburban  resorts.  The  caldc/ie  is  a  singular  and  usually  very  shabby- 
looking  vehicle,  perched  on  two  high  wheels,  with  the  driver  sitting  on  a  narrow 
ledge  in  front  It  is  drawn  by  a  homely  but  hardy  little  horse,  and  is  usually  driven 
bv  :i  French  Canadian,  who  urges  the  horse  forward  by  the  sharp  dissyllabic' cry, 
"  Marrhf-rinnc! '^  Two-horse  carriages,  fr  m  one  point  to  another  in  the  city,  or 
per  hour,  for  one  or  two  persons,  •'#1 ;  for  three  or  four  persons,  $1  uO  One  horse 
carriages,  50  cents,  or  75  cents  for  three  or  four  persons.  Calashes,  25  cents  a 
course,  5)  cents  an  hour. 

iMOi-se-Cars  run  between  St.  Ours,  St.  Sauveur,  and  the  Champlain  Market, 
every  15  minutes,  traversing  St.  Joseph,  St.  Paul,  and  St.  FVter  Sts.  The  fare  is  oc. 
Another  line  traverses  Buadc,  K.ibrique,  and  St,  John  Sts.,  in  the  Ujiper  Town. 

lU-adln^-Kooiiis.  —  The  libr.iry  and  museum  of  tlie  Quel)ec  Literary  and  His- 
torical ."Society  (in  Morrin  College)  are  courteously  opeiied  to  the  vi'^^its  of  strangers. 
The  Library  of  Parliament  is  also  accessilde,  and  is  finely  arranged.  The  fiisfiftit 
CioiacUcn'ia  at  ?.S  Fabrique  St  :  and  the  Y.  M,  C.  As'^ociation  Hall  is  a  splendid 
building,  erected  in  1879-8ii,  on  St.  John  St.,  just  outside  the  gate. 

Post-Office  at  the  corner  of  Buade  and  Dn  Fort  Sts.  Ac<'ording  to  the  new 
rules  of  the  t!anadian  postal  service,  stamps  are  now  sold  at  the  post-offlces. 

The  most  attractive  shops  are  on  Fabrique  and  St.  .lohn  vSts,,  and  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  French  Cathedral,  or  Basilica. 

An  Klevator  runs  from  Champlain  St.  (Lower  Town)  to  DufTcrjn  Terrace. 

KaiUvay.s.  —  The  Graiid-'l'runk  llailwav  has  it-!  terminal  stition  at  Point  Levi, 
317  .M  from"  l'(>rtland,425  M.  from  Boston,  and  '>.%  M.  from  New  York.  Pa«-(.nL'ers 
take  the  Grand-Trunk  ferry-steamnr  near  the  Champlain  Market.  The  Canadian 
IPacific  IJailway  runs  along  the  N.  shore  from  Quebe>'  to  Montreal  and  Ottawa.  The 
Quebec  and  Lake  St.  .lohn  Railway  runs  to  Roberval,  190  M.  distant  The  Quebec, 
Moatmorenci  e^-  Charlevoix  Railway  runs  to  8t.  Anne.  Stages  run  from  it<  sta- 
tion of  St.  Ambroise  to  Indi.m  Lorette,  and  from  Valcartier  Station  to  Valcarrier. 
The  Intercolonial  Railway  runs  to  St.  John,  N  B.,  and  Halifax,  N.  S.  The  Que- 
bec Central  Raibvav  runs  to  Sherbrooke. 

Steamships.  —The  steamships  of  the  Allan  line  leave  Quebec  for  Lough  Foyle 
and  Liverpool  and  Glasgow  every  Thursday,  during  the  sea,«on  of  summer-navigation. 
The  Dominion  Line  also  sends  steamships  weekly  to  Liverpool.  The  vessels  of  tue 
Quebec  S.  S.  Co.  leave  every  week  for  Father  Point,  176  M.  ;  Mt^tis,  207;  Gasp  ■,. 
443;  Perct5,  472;  Summerside,  710  ;  Charlottetown,  784  ;  and  Pictou,  82'.*.  The  St. 
Lawrence  S  N.  ('o.  runs  to  Bay  St.  P.iul,  55  M.  ;  Kbouliment,  oo  ;  Murray  Uay, 
82;  Riviere  du  Loup,  112;  Tadou.sac,  134;  L'Aii.se  St.  Jean,  106;  Ha!  Hal  Bay, 
207;  CliicouMmi,  235,  Smaller  boats  run  to  Pointe  aux  Trembles,  21,  Les  Ecu- 
reuils,  27 ;  PI  iton  and  Portneuf,  3.j  ;  Dwchambault,  45  ;  Guondines,  48  ;  and  St. 
Anne  de  la  Perade,  58  ;  also  to  St.  I.iambert,  9  ;  and  St.  Jean,  17  ;  also,  during  the 
pilgrimage  season,  to  St.  Anne  de  Beaupie.  Ferry-boats  run  to  Point  Levi  sevtiral 
timed  an  houi  ;  and  to  the  Isle  of  Orleans. 


m 


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256      Route  68. 


QUEBEC. 


'II 


II 


It 

If* 


'  Quebec,  "the  Gibraltar  of  America,"  and  the  third  city  in  the  Do- 
minion of  Canada,  is  situated  on  a  rocl<y  promontory  at  the  confluence  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Charles  Rivers,  180  M.  from  Montreal,  and  over 
400  M.  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  It  has  about  75,000  inhabitants, 
with  6  banks,  6  Masonic  lodges,  and  numerous  newspapers  in  the  French 
and  the  English  languages.  The  chief  business  of  the  city  is  in  the  hand- 
ling and  exportation  of  lumber,  of  which  $5-7,000,000  worth  is  sent 
away  annually.  There  are  long  lines  of  coves  along  the  St.  Lawrence 
shore,  above  the  city,  arranged  for  the  reception  and  protection  of  the 
vast  rafts  which  come  down  from  the  northern  forests.  A  very  consid- 
erable export  trade  in  gr.Jn  and  cattle  is  done,  and  the  various  supplies  of 
the  populous  counties  to  the  N.  and  E.  are  drawn  from  this  point.  Siiip- 
building  was  a  leading  industry,  and  many  vessels  of  the  largest  size 
have  been  launched  from  the  shipyards  on  the  St.  Charles;  but  the  business 
has  fallen  off  very  con.  iderably  of  late.  Of  late  years  several  important 
manufactories  have  been  established  in  the  Lower  Town,  and  the  city  is 
e3^pected  to  derive  great  benefit  fi'om  the  convergence  here  of  several 
lines  of  railway,  connecting  with  the  transatlantic  steamships,  and  making 
it  a  depot  of  immigration  and  of  freighting.  The  introduction  of  an  abun- 
dant and  powerful  water  supply  from  Lake  St.  Charles  and  the  establish- 
ment of  a  fire-brigade  and  alarm-telegraph  have  preserved  the  city,  during 
late  years,  from  a  recurrence  of  the  terrible  fires  with  which  it  was  for- 
merh'  scourged.    A  second  main  was  laid  in  1883. 

Quebec  is  built  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  bounded  by  the  two 
rivers  and  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  is  divided  into  the  Upper  Town 
and  Lower  Town,  the  former  standing  on  an  enwalled  and  strongly  forti- 
fied bluft'350  ft,  high,  while  the  latter  is  built  on  the  contracted  strands 
between  the  cliffs  and  the  rivers.  The  streets  are  narrow,  crooked,  and 
often  very  steep,  and  the  houses  are  generally  built  of  cut  stone,  in  a  style 
of  severe  simplicity.  It  is  the  most  quaint,  picturesque,  and  mediaeval- 
looking  city  in  America,  and  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  suburbs. 

"  Take  mountain  and  plnin,  sinuous  river,  and  broad,  tranquil  watei-s,  stately 
ship  and  tiny  boat,  gentle  hill  and  shady  valley,  bold  headland  and  rich,  fruitful 
fields,  frowning  battlement  and  cheerful  villa,  glittering  dome  and  rural  spire,  flow- 
ery garden  and  sombre  forest,  —  group  them  all  into  the  choicest  picture  of  ideal 
beauty  your  fancy  can  create,  arch  it  over  with  a  cloudless  sky,  light  it  up  with  a 
radiant  sun,  and  lest  the  sheen  should  be  too  dazzling,  hang  a  veil  of  lighted  haze 
over  all,  to  soften  the  lines  and  perfect  the  repose,  — you  will  then  have  seen  Quebec 
on  this  September  morning."    (Eliot  Warhurton. ) 

"Quebec  recalls  Angouleme  to  my  mind :  in  the  upper  city,  stairways,  narrow 
streets,  ancient  houses  on  the  verge  of  the  cliff;  in  the  lower  city,  the  new  fortunes, 
commerce,  workmen  ;  —  in  both,  many  shops  and  nuich  activity  "    (M.  Sand  ) 

"  The  scenic  beauty  of  Quebec  has  been  the  theme  of  general  eulogy.  The  majestic 
appearance  of  Cap<;  Diamond  and  the  fortifications,  —  the  cupolas  and  minarets,  like 
those  of  an  Eastern  city,  blazing  and  sparkling  in  the  sun,  —  the  loveliness  of  the 
panorama,  —  the  noble  basin,  like  a  sheet  of  purest  silver,  in  wb.ich  might  ride  with 
safety  a  hundred  sail  of  the  line,  —  the  graceful  meandering  of  the  river  8t.  Charles, 
—  the  numerous  village  spires  on  either  side  of  the  St  Lawrence, —  the  fertile  fields 
dotted  with  innumeraole  cottages,  the  abodes  of  a  rich  and  moral  peasantry,  —  the 
distant  Falls  of  Montniorenci,  —  the  park-like  scenery  of  Point  Levi,  —  the  beautt;ous 
Ifileof  Orleans,  — and  more  distant  still,  the  fi owning  Cape  Tourmcnte,  and  the  lofty 


QUEBEC, 


Route  68.      257 


range  of  purple  mountains  of  the  most  picturesque  forms  which  bf^und  the  prospect, 
unite  to  furm  a  coup  d'aif,  which,  without  exaggeration,  ia  Bcarceiy  to  be  surpassed 
iu  any  part  of  the  world.'    (Hawkins,) 

"  I  rubbed  my  eyes  to  be  sure  that  I  was  in  the  nineteenth  century,  and  was  not 
entering  one  of  those  portals  which  sometimes  adorn  the  frontispiece  of  old  blacli- 
letter  volumes,  I  thought  it  would  be  a  good  place  to  read  Froissart's  Chrouicles. 
It  was  such  a  reminiscence  of  the  Middle  Ages  as  Scott's  novels. 

"  Too  much  lias  not  been  said  about  the  scenery  of  Quebec.  The  fortifications  of 
Cape  Diamond  are  omnipresent.  You  trav<!l  10,  2(),  8()  M  up  or  down  the  river's 
banks,  you  ramble  15  M  among  the  hills  on  either  side,  and  then,  when  you  have 
long  since  forgotten  them,  perchance  slept  on  tiiem  by  the  way,  at  a  turn  of  the 

road  or  of  your  body,  there  they  are  still,  with  their  geometry  against  the  sky 

No  wonder  if  Jaques  Cartier's  pilot  exclaimed  in  Norman-Krencli,  Que  bee!  ( '  What 
a  peak  !  ')  when  he  saw  this  cape,  as  some  suppose.  Every  modern  traveller  invol- 
untarily uses  a  similar  expression Tlie  view  from  Cape  Diamond  has  been 

compared  by  European  travellers  with  the  most  remarkable  views  of  a  similar  kind 
in  Europe,  such  as  from  Edinburgh  Castle,  Gibraltar,  Cintra,  and  others,  and  pre- 
ferred by  many.  A  main  peculiarity  in  this,  compared  with  other  views  which  I 
hav# beheld,  is  that  it  is  from  the  ramparts  of  a  fortified  city,  and  not  from  a  soli- 
tary and  majestic  river  cape  alone  that  this  view  is  obtained I  still  remember 

the  harbor  far  beneath  me,  sparkling  like  silver  in  the  sun,  —  the  answering  head- 
lands of  Point  Levi  on  the  S.  E  ,  —  the  frowning  CapeTourmente  abruptly  bounding 
the  seaward  view  far  in  the  N  E. ,  —  the  villages  of  Lorette  and  Charlesbourg  ou  the 
N.,  — and  farther  W.  the  distant  Val  Cartier,  sparkling  with  white  cottages,  hardly 
removed  by  distance  through  the  clear  air,  —  not  to  mention  a  few  blue  mountaina 
along  the  horizon  in  that  direction.  You  look  out  from  the  ramparts  of  the  citadel 
beyond  the  frontiers  of  civilization.  Yonder  small  group  of  hills,  according  to  the 
guide-book,  forms  '  the  portal  of  the  wilds  which  are  trodden  only  by  the  feet  of  the 
Indian  hunters  as  far  as  Hudson's  Bay.'  "     (Thobeau) 

•*  There  is  no  city  in  America  more  famous  in  the  annals  of  history  than  Quebec, 
and  few  on  the  continent  of  Europe  more  picturesquely  situated.  Whilst  the  sur- 
rounding scenery  reminds  one  of  the  unrivalled  views  of  the  Bosphorus,  the  airy  sit© 
of  the  citadel  and  town  calls  to  mind  Innspruck  and  Edinburgh  Quebec  may  be  best 
described  by  supposing  that  an  ancient  Norman  fortress  of  two  centuries  ago  had 
been  encased  in  amber,  transported  by  niagi(!  to  Canada,  and  placed  on  the  summit 
of  Cape  Diamond." 

"  Quebec,  at  least  for  an  American  city,  is  certainly  a  very  peculiar  place.  A  mili- 
tary tow^n,  containing  about  20,000  inhabitants  ;  most  compactly  and  permanently 
built,  —  stone  its  sole  material ;  environed,  as  to  its  most  important  parts,  by  walls 
and  gates,  and  defended  by  numerous  heavy  cannon  ;  .  .  .  .  founded  upon  a  rock, 
and  in  its  highest  parts  overlooking  a  great  extent  of  country  ;  3  -40O  miles  from 
the  ocean,  in  the  midst  of  a  great  continent,  and  yet  displaying  tieets  of  foreign  mer- 
chantmen in  its  fine,  capacious  bay,  and  showing  all  the  bustle  of  a  crowded  sea- 
port ;  its  streets  narrow,  populous,  and  svinding  up  and  down  almost  mountainous 
declivities  ;  situated  in  the  latitude  of  the  finest  parts  of  Europe,  exhibiting  in  its 
environs  the  beauty  of  a  European  capital,  and  yet  in  winter  smarting  with  the  cold 
of  Siberia ;  governed  by  a  people  of  ditterent  language  and  habits  from  the  mass  of 
the  population,  opposed  in  religion,  and  yet  leaving  that  population  without  taxes, 
and  in  the  enjoyment  of  every  privilege,  civil  and  religious  :  such  are  the  prominent 
features  which  strike  a  stranger  in  the  city  of  Quebec.  A  seat  of  ancient  Dondnion, 
—  now  hoary  with  the  lapse  of  more  than  two  centuries,  —  formerly  the  seat  of  a 
French  empire  in  the  west,  —  lost  and  won  by  the  blood  of  gallant  armies,  and  of 
illustrious  commanders,  —  throned  on  a  rock ,  and  defended  by  all  the  proud  defiance 
of  war  !  Who  could  approach  such  a  city  without  emotion  !  Who  in  Canada  lias 
not  longed  to  cast  his  eyes  on  the  water-girt  rocks  and  towers  of  Quebec."  (Prop, 
Silliman;  in  1820.) 

"  Few  cities  offer  so  many  striking  contrasts  as  Quebec,  A  fortress  and  a  com- 
mercial city  together,  built  upon  the  summit  of  a  rock  like  the  nest  of  an  eagle, 
while  her  vessels  are  everywhere  wrinkling  the  face  of  the  ocean  ;  an  American  city 
inhabited  by  French  colonists,  governed  by  England,  and  garrisoned  by  Scotch 
regiments  ;  a  city  of  the  Middle  Ages  by  most  of  its  ancient  institutions,  while  it  in 
subject  to  all  the  combinations  of  modern  constitutional  government ;  a  European 
city  by  its  civilization  and  its  habits  of  refinement,  and  still  clo.se  by  the  renmants 
of  tlie  ludian  tribes  and  the  barren  mts.  of  the  North  ;  a  city  with  about  the  same 


r 


>n 


r      ,..1 

il 

I,  >/. 

I.  (i 


J,  •    fit 

♦.  *  4I 
•  '''1 


258      Route  OS. 


QUEBEC. 


f 


I 


I' 


tatitude  as  Paris,  while  sncppRPively  combining  the  torrid  climate  of  southern  repions 
with  the  reveritios  of  an  hyperhnrean  winttr;  a  city  at  the  same  time  (Catholic  and 
Protestant,  wlun;  the  labors  of  our  (French)  missions  are  still  uninterrupted  along- 
side of  tlie  undcrtiikinsis  of  the  liihle  Sotiet.v ,  and  where  the  Jesuits,  driven  out  of 
our  own  country,  find  refiitre  under  the  ttgia  of  Britisli  Puritanism."  (X.  Marmikr's 
Lettns  siir  I'A^ierir/iie,  18(10.) 

"  Leavint;  the  citadel,  we  are  once  more  in  the  European  Middle  Ages.  Gates  and 
posterns,  cranky  strps  that  lead  up  to  lofty,  gabled  houses,  with  sharp  French  roofn 
of  burnished  tin,  like  thost?  of  Liege;  jirocessioiis  of  the  llost ;  ahars  dei  kcd  with 
tiowers  ;  statues  of  the  Virgin  ;  sabots;  lilouses  ;  and  the  scarlet  of  the  Hriti.-h  lines- 
man,—  all  tlic^^e  are  seen  in  narrow  streets  and  markets  that  are  graced  with  many 
a  Cotentin  lace  <"ap,  and  all  within  40  miles  of  tlie  down-east,  Yankee  t^tate  of  Maine- 
It  is  not  far  from  New  England  to  Old  France There  ha.s  been  no  d.\  iiig  out 

of  the  race  among  »iie  Fren<h  t^anadians.  They  number  twenty  times  the  thousands 
that  they  did  KK)  years  ago.  The  American  soil  lias  left  their  physical  t,\pe,  re- 
ligion, language,  and  laws  ab.«olutely  untouched.  They  herd  together  in  their 
randjling  villages,  dance  to  the  fiddle  after  mass  on  Sundays,  —  as  gayly  as  once  did 
their  Norman  sires,  — and  keep  up  tlie  flntr-de-lys  and  tlie  memory  of  Montiahn. 
More  French  tlian  the  French  are  the  Lower  Canada  habitans.  The  pulse-beat«if  the 
continent  finds  no  echo  here."    (Sir  Chari.k.s  Dilke.) 

'"Curious  old  Quebec  I  of  all  the  cities  of  the  contuient  of  America  the  most 
quaint!  It  is  a  peak  thickly  populated  I  a  gigantic  rock,  escarped,  echeloned,  and 
at  the  same  time  smoothed  off  to  liold  firmly  on  its  summit  the  houses  and  castles, 
although  according  to  the  ordinary  laws  of  matter  tliey  ought  to  fall  off  like  a  bur- 
den placed  on  a  camel's  back  without  a  fastening.  Yet  theihouses  and  castles  hold 
there  as  if  they  were  nailed  down.  At  the  foot  of  the  rock  some  feet  of  land  have 
heen  reclaimed  from  the  river,  and  that  is  for  tlie  streets  of  the  Lower  Town.  Que- 
bec is  a  dried  shred  of  the  Middle  Ages,  liung  high  up  near  the  North  Pole,  far  fiom 
the  beaten  paths  of  the  Eurojiean  tourists,  ....  a  curiosity  without  juirallcl  on 
this  side  of  the  ocean.  We  traver.sed  eadi  street  as  we  would  have  turned  the  leaves 
of  a  book  of  engravings,  containing  a  new  painting  on  each  page The  local- 
ity ought  to  be  scrupulously  preserved  antique.  Let  modern  progress  be  carried 
elsewhere!  When  Quebec  has  taken  the  pains  to  go  and  perch  lierself  away  up 
near  Hudson's  Pay,  it  would  be  cruel  and  unfitting  to  dare  to  liarass  her  with  new 
ideas,  and  to  speak  of  doing  away  with  the  narrow  and  tortuous  streets  that  charm 
all  travellers,  in  order  to  seek  conformity  with  the  fantastic  ideas  of  comfort  in 
Toguein  the  19th  century."     (Henrv  Ward  Beecher.) 

"  On  Ta  dit,  Quebec  est  un  proniontoire,  c'est  avant  tout  une  forteresse  reniarqua- 
ble.  La  citadelle  s'eleve  au-dessus  de  la  ville  et  mire  dans  les  eaux  du  tteuve  scs 
cr<^;ieaux  bt%nta.  Le  voyageur  8'«^tonne,  apres  avoir  admire  les  bords  verdoyants  et 
fleuris  du  Saint-Laurent,  les  forets  aux  puissantes  ramures  pleines  de  mysteres  et 
d'ombre,  les  riantes  vallees  pleines  de  bruits  et  de  rayons,  de  rencontrer  tout  i  coup 
rette  ville  qui  semblc  venir  d"Europe  et  qui  serait  moins  etrange  sur  les  bords  du 
Rhin  aux  dramatiques  legendcs.  Mais  Qu.  bee  n'est  pas  une  ville  ou  1\  tranger  vienne 
ee  distraire  et  cherchi^r  d'oubli  un  theatre  i'l  grands  luxes,  a  grands  spectacles  .... 
C'est  peut-etre  la  seule  ville  du  monde  ou  les  gens  aient  droit  de  se  plaindre  et  ou 
ils  ne  se  plaignent  pas.  J'ai  (crit  que  Qui  bee  est  une  forteresse  remarquable; 
elle  ( leve  sou  front  superbe  et  se  cambre  avec  fieitr  dans  sa  robe  de  pierre.  EUe  a 
conserv  •  un  air  des  temps  chevaleresques,  elle  a  soutenu  des  si  ges,  elle  a  rei^u  son 
baptenie  du  feu.  En  loiigeant  ces  vieux  murs,  en  admirant  cette  forteresse  tlevi  e 
conime  un  nid  d'aigle  sur  un  roc  sourcilleux,  on  se  croirait  dans  une  ville  du  moyen 
Sge,  au  temjis  des  factions  et  des  guerres  civiles,  une  de  ces  villes  accoutunu  es  aux 
bruits  des  amies,  aux  fanfares  et  aux  hynines  guerriers,  mais  tout  est  silencieux  dans 
la  nuit  screine,  et  vous  n'entendez  meme  pas  le  pace  cadence  d'une  sentinelle. 
Dans  cette  ville  et  aux  alentours,  que  d'(  vt  nements  out  i  tc  accompli !  Quelle  lutte 
pleine  de  pocsie  h  roique  I  Que  de  vicissitudes!  et  quel  courage  I  En  quelque  lieu 
que  vous  alliez,  a  la  basse-ville,  sur  le  chemin  Saint-Louis  ou  Sainte-Foye,  sur  les 
rives  de  la  riviere  Saint-Charles,  tout  respire  un  parfum  historique,  tout  parle  ii  vos 
yeux,  tout  a  une  voix  qui  exprime  quelque  chose  de  grand  et  de  triste,  et  les  picrres 
memes  eout  autour  do  tcus  ccsime  les  £antdmes  qui  rellcchissent  le  passe." 


I  • 


QUEBEC. 


Jioute  6S.      259 


ulic  und 
I  along- 
1  nut  of 
\RMlt.R*3 

atep  and 

ich  roofrt 

i«d  with 

i.-h  liiH's- 

ith  ninny 

olMiiiiie. 

\  inj;  out 

liou«\nd8 
t\  j)0,  re- 
in   tlu'ir 

1  onfo  (lid 

lontdilni. 

it'at4i»f  the 

the  most 
oned,  and 
id  cfti^tlcs, 
ke  a  lur- 
istU'S  hold 
land  have 
wn .     Que- 
L',  far  fiom 
larallt'l  on 
the  lrnv«;9 
The  1(K  iil- 
be  canii'd 
f  away  up 
•  with  new 
hat  charm 
comfort  in 

remarqua- 
1  Heuve  scs 
rdoyants  ct 
nysteres  et 
tout  i  coup 
js  bords  du 
nger  vienne 
,acle8.  •  •  ■  ; 
indre  et  oil 
niarquable ; 
rre.     EUe  a 
a  ret;u  son 
■res?e  tlevi  e 
e  du  moyen 
tunn  es  aux 
ncicux  dans 
;  Kcntinelle. 
Quelle  lutte 
luelque  lieu 
oye,  sur  les 
t  parle  a  vos 
t  les  pier  res 
Ise." 


The  Dufferin  Terrace  is  on  the  riverward  edge  of  the  Upper  Town,  and 
begins  on  the  buttresses  and  platform  formerly  occupied  by  the  Chateau 
of  St.  Louif.,  which  was  built  by  Chaniplain  in  1620,  and  extends  for  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  base  of  the  citadel,  making  it  the  longest  prome- 
nade of  the  sort  in  the  world.  It  was  opened  on  Juno  10,  1879,  by  the 
Marquis  of  Lome  and  the  Princess  Louise,  in  the  presence  of  10,000  people. 
The  old  Chateau  was  a  massive  stone  structure,  200  ft.  long,  used  for  a 
fortress,  prison,  and  governor's  palace,  and  it  stood  until  1834,  when  it  was 
ruined  b}'  fire.  The  terrace  is  182  ft.  above  the  river,  and  commands  a 
*  view  of  surpassing  beauty.  Immediately  below  are  the  sinuous  streets 
of  the  Lower  Town,  with  its  wharves  projecting  into  the  stream.  On  one 
side  are  the  loft}'  fortified  bluffs  of  Point  Levi,  and  on  the  other  the  St. 
Charles  River  winds  away  down  its  peaceful  valley.  The  white  houses  of 
Beauport  stretch  off  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  while  be- 
yond are  seen  the  farms  of  L'Ange  Gardien,  extending  towards  the 
heights  of  St.  Fereol.  Vessels  of  all  classes  and  sizes  are  anchored  in  the 
broad  basin  and  the  river,  and  the  rich  and  verdant  Isle  of  Orleans  is  in 
mid-stream  below.  Beyond,  and  over  all,  are  the  bold  peaks  of  the  Lau- 
rentian  range,  with  Cape  Tourmeiite  towering  over  the  river.  The  Terrace 
is  the  favorite  promenade  of  the  citizens,  and  presents  an  attractive  scene 
in  the  late  afternoon  or  on  pleasant  Sundays. 

'•  There  is  not  in  the  world  a  nobler  outlook  than  that  from  the  Terrace  at  Que- 
bec. You  stand  upon  a  rock  overhanging  city  and  river,  and  look  down  upon  the 
guard-/!hips'  masts.  Acre  upon  acre  of  timber  comes  floating  down  the  stream 
above  the  city,  the  Canadian  boat-songs  just  reacliing  you  upon  the  lieights ;  and 
beneath  you  are  Heets  of  great  ships,  English,  German,  French,  and  Dutch,  embark- 
ing the  timber  from  the  floating  docks.  The  Stars  and  Stripes  are  nowhere  to  be 
seen  "     {Sia  Charlss  Dilke.) 

"  On  a  summer  evening,  when  the  Terrace  is  covered  with  loungers,  and  when 
Point  Levi  is  sprinkled  with  lights  and  the  Lower  Town  has  illuminated  its  narrow 
streets  and  its  long  dormer-wiudows,  while  the  lively  murmur  of  business  is  ascend- 
ing and  the  eye  can  discern  the  great  shadows  of  the  ships  beating  into  port,  the 
scene  is  one  of  marvellous  animation.  It  is  then,  above  all,  that  one  is  struck  with 
the  resemblance  between  Quebec  and  the  European  cities  ;  it  might  be  called  a  city 
of  France  or  Italy  transplanteil ;  the  physiognomy  is  the  same,  and  daylight  ia 
needeil  to  mark  the  alteration  of  features  produced  by  the  passage  to  America."' 

"  At  a  later  era,  when,  under  the  protection  of  the  French  kings,  the  Provinces 
had  ac:iuired  the  rudiments  of  military  strength  and  power,  the  Castle  of  St  Louis 
was  remarkable  as  liaving  been  tlie  .^ite  whence  the  French  governors  exercised  an 
immense  sovereignty,  extending  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  along  the  shores  of 
that  noble  river,  its  magnificent  lakes,  and  down  the  course  of  the  Mi«siisippi  to  its 
outlet  below  New  Orleans.  The  baimer  which  first  streamed  from  the  battlements 
of  Quehec  wad  displayed  from  a  chain  of  forts  which  protected  the  settlements 
throughout  this  va^t  extent  of  country,  keeping  the  English  Colonies  in  constant 
alarm,  and  >ecuring  the  fidelity  of  the  Indian  nations.  During  this  period  the  coun- 
cil chiunber  of  the  castle  was  the  scene  of  many  a  midnight  vigil,  many  a  long  delib- 
eration and  deep-laid  project,  to  free  the  continent  from  the  intrusion  of  the  ancient 
rival  of  France,  and  assert  throughout  the  supremacy  of  the  Gallic  lily.  At  another 
period,  subse([uent  to  the  surrender  of  Quebec  to  the  British  arms,  and  until  the 
recognition  of  the  independence  of  the  United  States,  the  extent  of  empire  of  which 
the  Castle  of  Quebec  was  the  principal  seat  compreheDded  the  whole  American  coa- 
tinent  north  of  Mexico."    (Hawkins.) 


K-i 


-'■  -Mm 


■■■i..''--ii 


'i  ^m 


m 


260      Houte  68. 


QUEBEC. 


ir 


Hi! 


The  Anglican  Cathedral  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Recollet  Con- 
ireot  and  gardens,  and  is  a  plain  and  massive  building,  135  ft.  long,  with 
a  spire  152  ft.  high.  It  was  built  by  the  British  government  in  1803-4, 
and  received  its  superb  communion-service,  altar-cloths,  and  books  as  a 
present  from  King  George  III.  There  is  a  chime  of  8  bells  in  the  tower, 
which  makes  pleasant  music  on  Sundays;  and  the  windows  are  of  rich 
stained  glass.  The  interior  is  plain  and  the  roof  is  supported  on  Corinthian 
pillars  and  pilasters,  wliile  over  the  chancel  hang  the  old  Crimean  colors 
of  the  69th  Regiment  of  the  British  army.  Under  the  altar  lie  the  remains 
of  Charles  Lennox,  Duke  of  Richmond,  Leimox,  and  Aubigny,  and  Gov- 
ernor-General of  Canada,  who  died  of  hydrophobia  in  1819.  There  are 
numerous  mural  monuments  in  the  cathedral,  and  in  the  chancel  are  the 
memorials  to  the  early  Anglican  Bishops  of  Quebec,  Jacob  Mountain  and 
Charles  James  Stewart.  The  former  consists  of  a  bust  of  the  Bishop, 
alongside  of  which  is  a  statue  of  Religion,  both  in  relief,  in  white  marble, 
on  a  background  of  black  marble. 

Dr.  Mountain  was  in  the  presence  of  King  George,  when  he  expressed  a 
do^bt  as  to  whom  he  should  appoint  as  bishop  of  the  new  See  of  Quebec. 
Spid  the  doctor,  "If  your  Majesty  had  faith,  there  would  be  no  difficulty." 
"How  soV  "  said  the  king.  Mountain  answered,  "If  you  had  faith,  you 
would  say  to  this  Mountain,  Be  thou  removed  into  that  See,  and  it  would 
be  done."   It  was. 

Between  the  cathedral  and  the  Diifferin  Terrace  is  the  prettv  little  Place 
d*  Arm.es,  where,  on  the  site  of  the  old  court-house  (burnt  in  1871),  a  hand- 
some new  court-house  was  built,  in  1885.  Beyond  the  court-house  (on  St. 
Louis  St.)  is  the  Masonic  Hall,  opposite  which  are  the  old-time  structures 
of  the  St.  Louis  Hotel  and  the  ancient  building,  known  as  the 

Kent  Hovse,  from  the  fact  that  Prince  Edward,  the  Duke  of  Kent  (father 
of  Queen  Victoria),  dwelt  here  during  his  long  sojourn  at  Quebec.  Oppo- 
site the  St.  Louis  Hotel  is  a  quaint  little  building  (now  used  as  a  barber- 
shop), in  Avhich  Montcalm  held  his  last  council  of  war.  St.  Louis  St.  runs 
out  through  the  ramparts,  traversing  a  quiet  and  solidly  built  quarter,  and 
is  prolonged  beyond  the  walls  as  the  Grand  AU^e,  passing  the  magnifi- 
cent new  Parliament  Buildings. 

The  *  Market  Square  is  near  the  centre  of  the  Upper  Town .  The  Jesuits* 
College  has  been  torn  down,  and  its  place  remains  drearily  empty. 

Markets  are  not  now  held  on  the  Square,  but  outside  St.  John's  Gate. 

"  A  few  steps  had  brought  them  to  the  market-square  in  front  of  the  cathedral, 
where  a  little  belated  tnilflc  still  lingered  in  the  few  old  pejisant-wonien  hovering 
over  baskets  of  (-uch  fruits  and  vegetables  as  had  long  been  out  of  .reason  in  the 
States,  and  the  housekeepers  and  servants  cheapening  these  wares.  A  sentry  moved 
mechanically  up  and  down  before  the  high  portal  of  the  .Jesuit  Barracks,  over  the 
arch  of  which  were  still  the  letters  I.  H.  S.  carved  long  ago  on  the  keystone  ;  and 
the  ancient  edifice  itself,  with  its  yellow  stucco  front  and  its  grated  windows,  had 
every  right  to  be  a  monastery  turned  barracks  in  France  or  Italy.  A  row  of  quaint 
stone  bouses  —  inns  and  shops  —  formed  the  upper  side  of  the  square,  while  the 
modern  buildings  of  the  Rue  Fabric^u^  op  the  low^r  side  might  serve  very  well  for 


s  • 


QUEBEC. 


JioHte  G8.      261 


that  Hhow  of  Improvement  which  deepens  the  xentiment  of  the  neighboring  antiquity 
and  decay  in  Latin  townH.  As  for  tlie  cathedral,  which  faced  the  convent  from 
across  tlie  square,  it  waH  a'^cold  ami  torpid  a  bit  of  Renaissance  as  could  be  found 
in  Rome  itfielf.  A  red-coiited  soldier  or  two  passed  through  the  square  :  three  or 
four  neat  little  French  policemen  lounged  about  in  blue  uniforms  and  flaring 
havelocks;  some  walnut-faced,  blue-eved  old  citizens  and  {M-asants  sat  upon  tlie 
thresliolds  of  the  row  of  old  houses  and  gaz«'d  dreandly  through  the  smoke  of  their 
pipes  at  the  slight  stir  and  glitter  of  sliopping  about  the  fine  ston's  of  the  Rue 
Fabrique.  An  air  of  serene  disoccupation  pervaded  tlie  place,  with  which  the 
drivers  of  the  long  rows  ot  calashes  and  carriages  in  front  of  the  cathedral  did  not 
discord.  Whenever  a  stray  American  wandered  Into  the  square,  there  was  a  wild 
flight  of  these  drivers  towards  him,  and  liis  person  was  lost  to  sight  amidst  their 
pantomime.  Tliey  did  not  try  to  underbid  each  otlier,  and  they  were  perfectly  good- 
humored.  As  soon  as  he  had  made  his  choice,  the  rejected  multitude  returned  to 
their  places  on  the  curbstone,  pursuing  tlie  successful  aspirant  with  inscrutable 
jokes  as  he  drove  off,  while  the  horse.^  went  on  munching  the  contents  of  tlieir 
leathern  head-bags,  and  tossing  them  into  the  air  to  shake  down  the  lurking  grains 
of  corn."    (HoWELLs's  A  Chance  Arquaintance.) 

The  magnificent  new  Parliament  and  Departmental  Buildings  are  on 
the  Grand  AUde,  on  high  ground  outside  the  St.  Loui.s  Gate,  and  were  begun 
in  1878.  The  halls  of  the  local  Parliament  were  begun  in  1882.  The 
buildings  are  of  gray  stone,  very  large  and  massive,  and  present  an  impos- 
ing appearance  when  seen  from  the  ramparts,  or  from  the  distant  valley 
villages.  It  was  at  one  time  intended  to  have  built  the  new  Parliament 
House  on  the  site  of  the  Jesuits'  College,  a  vast  quadrangular  pile,  224  by 
200  ft.  in  area,  founded  in  1646,  and  demolislied  in  1878,  after  a  long  period 
of  desertion  and  dilapidation. 

The  Jesuits'  College  was  founded  in  1637,  one  year  before  Harvard  College, 
and  performed  a  noble  work  in  its  day.  It  wa.s  suspended  in  1759  by  tien. 
Murray,  who  quartered  his  troops  here,  and  in  1809  the  property  reverted  to  the 
crown,  on  the  death  of  the  la»t  of  the  Jesuit  Fathers.  The  buildings  were  used 
as  barracks  until  the  British  armies  evacuated  Canada  "  From  this  seat  of  piety 
and  learning  issued  tho.se  dauntless  mi.s,«ionaries,  who  made  the  Gospel  known 
over  a  space  of  600  leagues,  and  preached  the  Christian  faith  from  the  St.  Law- 
rence to  the  Mississippi.  In  this  pious  work  many  suffered  death  in  the  most 
cruel  form ;  all  underwent  danger  and  privation  for  a  series  of  years,  with  a  con- 
stancy and  patience  that  must  always  command  the  wonder  of  the  historian  and 
the  admiration  of  posterity." 

The  *  Basilica  of  Quebec  is  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Market  Square,  and 
was  known  as  the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  until  1874,  when  it  was 
elevated  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  to  the  rank  of  a  basilica.  It  was  founded  in 
1666  by  Bishop  Laval,  and  was  destroyed  by  the  bombardment  from 
Wolfe's  batteries  in  1759.  The  present  building  dates  from  the  era  of  the 
Conquest,  and  its  exterior  is  quaint,  irregular,  and  homely.  From  its 
towers  the  Angelus  bells  sound  at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  6  in  the 
evening.  The  interior  is  heaA'y,  but  not  unpleasing,  and  accommodates 
4,000  persons.  The  High  Altar  is  well  adorned,  and  there  are  several 
chapels  in  the  aisles.  The  most  notable  pictures  in  the  Basilica  are,  **  the 
Crucifixion,  by  Fon  Dyck  ("  the  Christ  of  the  Cathedral";  the  finest  paint- 
ing in  Canada),  on  the  first  pillar  I.  of  the  altar;  the  Ecstasy  of  St.  Paul, 
Carlo  Maratti  ;  the  Annunciation,  Restout ;  the  Baptism  of  Christ,  HallS  ; 
the  Pentecost,  Vignon ;  Miracles  of  St.  Anne,  Plamondon ;  Angels  waiting 


*  I 


*  1 


■    I 


.■':. 


•lip 

v.-": 


i 


\'-'} 

M 


I'     t\ 

iS»  ■-,    '    ,1 


W^' 


202       lloHte  68. 


QUEBEC. 


'|. 


i  ■ 


-'i 


I'; 


on  Christ,  RestoiU  (In  the  choir);  tlie  Nativity,  copj'  from  Annibnle  Ca- 
racci;  Holy  Faniily,  Blanchard,  ^ 

The  Bnpllira  orcnpiM  the  sife  of  the  ancient  rhiirrh  of  Notre  Dame  de  la  Recou- 
vninre,  built  In  lt)3.'3  hy  ('hniii|)lain,iii  nieiiiory  of  the  recovery  of  (-anudii  by  France. 
'»Vithin  itH  walls  are  liuried  Bishops  Laval  and  PUwiw ;  Cbauiplaiii,  the  heroic  ex- 
plorer, founder  and  th'Ht  (Jovernor  of  Quebec  :  and  tiie  Count  de  Frontenac,  the 
fiery  and  cliivalric  Governor  of  Canada  from  lt>88  to  KjOS.  After  his  death  his 
heart  was  endoM'd  in  a  leaden  casket  and  sent  to  his  widow,  in  France,  but  the 
proud  countess  refused  to  receive  it,  sayinii  that  she  would  not  have  a  dead  heart, 
which,  while  living,  had  not  been  hers.  The  noble  lady  ("  the  niarvellously  beautiful 
Anne  de  la  Orange-Trianon,  HiirnauuMl  The  Divine"")  was  the  triend  ol  Mi'dame  de 
Montpensler,  and  was  alienated  from  Froiitenae  on  account  of  liis  love-uUair  with 
the  brilliant  Versaillaise,  Maihimc^  de  Monrespan 

Most  of  the  valuable  paintings  in  the  Basilica,  and  elsewhere  in  Canada,  were 
bought  in  France  at  the  epoch  of  the  Revolution  of  1793,  when  the  churches  and 
convents  htul  been  pillaged  of  their  treasures  of  art.  Many  of  them  were  purchased 
from  their  captorrf,  and  seat  to  the  secure  shores  of  New  France. 

■Jaclt  of  tlie  Basilica,  on  Port  Dauphin  St.,  is  the  extensive  palace  of 
the  Arclibishop,  surrouiuleil  by  (piict  ^^arilcns.  To  the  E.  is  tlie  (jrand 
Battery;  and  also  tlie  site  of  the  old  Parliament  ILiuse. 

The  *  Seminary  of  Quebec  adjoins  the  Cathedral  on  the  N.,  and  covers 
several  acres  with  its  piles  of  quaint  and  ramhlinp:  buildings  and  quiet 
and  sequestered  gardens.  It  is  flivided  into  Le  Grand  Semimiire  and  Le 
Petit  Semlnnire^  the  former  being  devoted  to  Pionian-Catholic  theology  and 
tlie  education  of  priests.  The  Minor  Seminary  is  for  the  study  of  litera- 
ture and  science  (for  boys),  and  the  course  extends  over  nine  years. 
Boarders  pay  $150  a  year,  exclusive  of  washing,  music,  and  draw- 
ing. The  students  may  be  recognized  in  the  streets  by  their  peculiar 
uniform.  The  quadrargle,  with  its  old  and  irregular  buildings;  the  spot- 
less neatness  of  the  grounds;  the  massive  walls  and  picturesquely  outlined 
groupings,  will  claim  the  interest  of  the  visitor. 

*'  No  such  building  could  be  seen  anywhere  save  in  Quebec,  or  in  some  ancient 
provincial  town  in  Normandy.  You  ask  for  one  of  the  gentlemen  (priests),  and  you 
are  introduced  to  his  modest  apartment,  where  }ou  find  him  in  his  soutane,  with  all 
the  polish,  learning,  and  bonhonwiie  of  the  nineteenth  century."  Visitors  are  con- 
ducted over  the  building  in  a  courteous  manner. 

1  he  ancient  Seminary  Chapel,  with  its  precious  paintings  by  Philippe 

de  Champagne,  Vanloo,  and  other  mn«tprs,  wa<  l)urned  in  1888. 

The  Seminary  of  Quebec  was  founded  in  16t)8  by  M  de  Laval,  who  endowed  it  with 
all  his  great  wealth.  The  first  buildings  were  erected  in  IGGO,  and  the  prei-ent  Semi- 
nary is  composed  of  edifices  constructed  at  different  dates  since  that  time.  In  1865 
a  large  part  of  the  quadran<;le  was  burnt,  but  it  has  since  been  restored.  In  1704 
there  were  54  teachers  and  students  ;  in  1810  there  were  110 ;  and  there  are  now  over 
400  (exclusive  of  the  University  students).  "  When  we  awake  its  dejiarted  shi.des, 
they  rise  upon  us  from  their  graves,  in  strange  romantic  guise.  IMen  steeped  in 
antique  learning,  pale  with  the  close  breath  of  the  cloister,  here  spent  the  noon  and 
evening  of  their  lives,  ruled  savage  hordes  with  a  mild  paternal  sway,  and  ^tood 
serene  before  the  direst  shapes  of  death.  Men  of  courtly  natures,  heirs  to  the  polish 
of  a  far-reaching  ancestry,  here  with  their  dauntless  hardihood  put  to  shame  the 
bolde-st  sons  of  toil." 


QUEBEC. 


Jioute  08.      203 


ibnle  Ca- 


'  la  Rpoou- 
\)\  France, 
heroic  ex- 
itcnac,  the 
dcfith  his 
e,  hut  tlio 
Ifjid  hcnrt, 
,\  hoaiitifui 
^Irihillic  <le 

ulliiir  with 

.nada,  were 
urches  and 
(  purchased 

piilace  of 
he  Grand 


nnd  covers 
nnd  quiet 
ire  and  Le 
colofry  and 
y  of  litera- 
line   years, 
and  draw- 
ir  peculiar 
the  ppot- 
V  outlined 


lome  ancient 
ts),  and  you 
ane,  witli  all 
ors  are  con- 


iv 


Philippe 


lowed  it  with 
present  Senii- 
nie.  In  1865 
d.  In  1704 
are  now  over 
arted  flu.des, 
ju  PteeiH'd  in 
the  noon  and 
y,  and  ^to^d 
to  the  polish 
to  shame  the 


The  *  Laval  University  in  hetween  the  Semhiary  gardeuH  and  the  ram- 
parti«,  and  may  he  reached  from  St.  Famille  St.  The  main  buildinp  is  280  ft. 
lonjrainl  5  stories  hif:!;h,  is  built  of  ctit  stone,  and  cost  $225,000.  The  roof  is  a 
flat  sanded  platform,  securely  enrailcd,  where  the  students  promenade  and 
enjoy  the  (];iand  *  view  of  the  city,  the  river,  and  the  Laurentian  Mts.  Vis- 
itors are  admitted  to  the  collections  of  the  Tniversity  on  application  to  the 
janitor.  The  reception-rooms  contain  the  great  picture  of  the  Madonna  of 
Quebec,  a  portrait  of  I'ius  IX.,  by  Pnsf/iitdoni,  atid  other  paintings.  The  large 
hall  of  convocation  has  seats  for  2,000,  with  galleries  for  ladies.  The  chem- 
ical laboratory  is  a  fire-proof  chamber,  modelled  after  that  of  King's  Col- 
lege, London;  and  the  dissecting-room  is  spacious  and  well  arranged.  The 
♦mineral  niuseum  was  prepared  by  the  late  Abb^  Haiiy,  an  eminent 
scientist,  and  contains  specimens  of  the  stones,  ores,  and  minerals  of 
Canada,  with  a  rare  and  valuable  collection  of  crystals.  It  fills  a  long 
series  of  apartments,  from  which  the  visitor  is  ushered  into  the  ethnologi- 
cal and  zoological  cabinets.  Here  are  a  great  number  of  Indian  remains, 
implements,  and  weapons,  and  other  Huron  antiquities;  with  prepared 
specimens  of  Canadian  animals  and  fish.  The  Library  contains  90,000 
volumes  (about  half  of  which  are  French),  arranged  in  two  sjiacious  halls, 
from  whose  windows  delightful  views  are  obtamed.  The  *  Pictin-e-Gnl- 
lenj  has  lately  been  opened  to  the  puldic,  and  is  the  richest  in  Canada. 
The  works  are  mostly  copies  from  the  old  masters,  though  there  are  sev- 
eral undoubted  originals. 

The  visitor  should  also  see  the  brilliant 
collection  of  Canadian  birds;  and  the  costly  philosophical  and  medical 
apparatus,  imported  from  Paris.  The  extensive  dormitories  occupy  sub- 
stantial stone  buildings  near  the  University,  over  the  gardens. 

The  Seminary  was  founded  in  1663  by  Francois  de  Montmorenci  Laval,  first  Bishop 
of  Quebec,  and  has  been  the  central  power  of  the  Catholic  Church  in  this  Province 
for  over  two  centuries.  The  Laval  University  was  founded  in  1852,  and  has  had  the 
jjrivileges  of  a  Catholic  University  accorded  to  it  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  The  processes 
of  study  are  niodclU'd  on  those  of  the  University  of  Louvain.  The  department  of 
arts  has  14  professors,  tiie  law  has  6,  divinity  has  5,  and  medicine  has  8.  There  are 
also  24  pi'ofessors  in  the  Minor  Seminary. 

"  Quebec  is  a  marvellous  old  town,  and  its  jjlory  is  enhanced  by  the  glamor  of  the 
Roman  purple.  Nothin;.^  could  well  tie  more  fittin}:  than  bestowing  a  cardinal  upon 
this  mother  of  chuiThes,  -the  mtKjna  jxirenx  of  nearly  tiffy  modern  dioceses. 
W  len  L  ival  de  .Montmorency  stood  on  the  altar  steps  of  iiis  basilica,  be  could  wave 
his  crozier  over  half  a  eontinent,  from  the  strand  of  Miquelon  to  the  sprinp  of 
Itasca;  from  the  gulf  of  tue  6t.  Lawrence  to  where  the  rosy  sea-shells  murmur  in 
the  Ray  of  Pascagoula." 

The  old  Parliament  Building  stood  near  Laval  University.  It  was 
burned  in  1883. 


■I.  I.*  ll 


il  I 


m 


I  -■  li  1 


^^ 


rts 


7"  ,  .'  i 


^% 


M':<: 


^■l: 


iL. a.'.-i. 


264      HouU  08. 


\  i'M^'( 


■'} 


I'l 


Mountnin-nUl  St.  M'ffff^^*  by  the  plnce  of  the  Pr^^cott  Onte,  to  the 
Lower  Town,  winding  down  tJM  slope  of  the  cliH".  On  the  r.,  about  |  of 
the  wny  down,  nre  the  *  Champlain  Steps,  or  Cote  hi  Montngno,  a  steep, 
crowded,  and  picturesque  stiiirwiiy  leading  down  to  Notre  Dame  des 
Victoires  (see  pape  271).  Near  the  foot  of  the  stops  is  a  pratiiifr,  over  the 
phjce  where  the  reinains  of  Champhiin  were  recently  found,  in  the  vault 
of  an  ancient  chapel.  The  Cote  la  Montapne  has  reminded  one  author 
of  Naples  and  Trieste,  another  of  Venice  and  Trieste,  and  another  of 
Malta. 

The  Fost-OfBioe  ia  a  handsome  stone  building  at  the  corner  of  Biiade  and 
Du  tort  ISts.  In  its  lr«int  wall  is  a  figure  of  a  dog,  carved  iu  the  btoue  and 
gilded,  under  which  is  the  iubcriptiou  :  — 


•' Je  «nii  un  chirn  qut  ronjre  I'oi  ; 
En  lo  rotipcitnt  je  prcnd  iixin  repo§. 
Vn  tpfiips  viondru  qui  n'esf  poi  \oiiu 
Que  jc  iiiordraiH  qui  in'aura  niordu." 


("  I  nm  a  dojr  pnnwinir  a  bone. 
Wliilc  I  giiiiw  I  tiilcc  my  n-pooe. 
Tlic  lime  will  ronic,  tliiin^'li  n<it  yet, 
Wlien  I  will  bite  him  who  now  bites  me.") 


This  lampoon  was  aimed  at  the  Intendant  Higot  by  M.  Philibert,  who  had 
suffered  wrong  from  him,  but  soon  after  the  carved  stf>ne  had  been  put 
into  the  front  of  Philibert's  houpe,  that  gentleman  Wi..-,  assassinated  by  an 
officer  of  the  garrison.  The  murderer  exchanged  into  the  East  Indian 
army,  but  was  pursued  by  Philibert's  brother,  and  was  killed,  at  Pondi- 
cherry,  after  a  severe  conflict. 

The  Post-Offlpe  occupies  the  Fite  of  the  Orand  Place  of  the  early  French  town,  on 
which  encamped  the  Huron  tribe, sheltered  by  the  fort  lioiii  tlie  attacks  of  the  piti- 
less Iroquois.     Here  afterwards  lived  the  beautiful  Miss  Prentice,  with  whom  Nelson 
fell  In  love,  so  that  he  hod  to  be  forced  on  board  of  his  ship  to  get  him  away.  "  How 
many  changes  would  haV'.>    nsued  on  the  map  of  Europe !  how  many  new  horizons  in 
history,  if  Nelson  had  dese-ted  the  naval  t^ervice  of  his  country  in  1782!     Without 
doubt,  Napoleon  would  have  given  Jaw  to  the  entire  world.     His  supremacy  on  the 
*ea  would  have  consolidated  his  rule  over  the  European  continent :  and  that  becaus 
an  amorous  young  naval  officer  was  seized  by  a  passion  for       owitching  Canadian 
girl  I  "     Near  this  place  the  Duke  of  (^larence,  then  a  subaltern  of  the  fleet,  b' 
afterwards  King  William  IV.  of  England,  followed  a  young  lady  home  in  an  u. 
seemly  manner,  and  was  caught  by  her  father  and  very  soundly  horsewhipped. 

The  *TJrsuline  Convent  is  entered  from  Garden  St.,  and  is  a  spacious 
pile  of  buildings,  commenc  •  in  1.686,  and  covering  7  acres  with  its  gardens 
and  offices.  There  are  40  ii.  ■'^.  vho  are  devoted  to  teaching  girls,  and 
also  to  working  in  embroid  >•) ,  •  ,iinM;:it,,  and  fanc)'  articles.  The  parlors 
and  chapel  may  be  visited  hy  p--  inij>>ion  of  tiK;  chaplain  (whose  office  is 
ndjacent);  and  in  the  lattei' are  s.jma  valuable  paintings:  *  Christ  at  the 
Pharisee's  House,  by  Philippe  de  Champagne ;  Saints  Nonus  and  Peiagius, 
Prudhomme ;  the  Saviour  Preaching,  P.  de  Champagne ;  the  Miraculous 
Draught  of  Fish,  Le  Dim  de  Jouvenet ;  Captives  at  Algiers,  Reatout ;  St. 


f 


QUEBEC. 


Ji(mte  68.      265 


te,  to  the 
bout  J  oi 
p,  n  Hteep, 
Diimo  (les 
,  over  the 
the  vniilt 
lie  nuihor 
nolher  of 

Buadc  Rnd 
8tune  and 


le. 

Kit  yet, 

w  bitei  me.") 

t,  who  had 
I  been  put 

ted  by  an 
list  Indian 

at  Pondi- 


ph  town ,  on 
of  the  pitl- 
loui  Nflson 
way.  "  How 
horizons  in 
Without 
iicv  on  the 
thatbei-au? 
Cnntidian 
le  fleet,  b' 
in  an  u 
hipped. 


)t 


a  spacious 
its  gardens 

girls,  and 
The  parlors 
se  otRce  is 
rist  at  the 
d  Peiagius, 
Miraculous 

estout ;  St. 


L 


Peter,  SpanUh  School;  and  Hevoral<)thor».  In  tho  shrlne«  lire  relionof  St« 
CIcinciit  Martyr,  and  other  saints  from  the  Roman  catiicombs.  Within  » 
gruve  m-uin  by  a  slu'U  whicli  burst  in  tii  s  chapri  'luring  tlie  l"'mbHrdiuent 
()!  17')9  is  buried  **  th<i  Higli  and  Mi>tlity  I<ord,  \aiu,<  Joseph,  MaKjiii-  of 
^^ollt^•ainl,"  and  over  his  reniaiuH  is  the  inscription,  '*  ilonneur  ti  Mont- 
calm! Le  dentin  en  lui  d^robant  do  la  victoire  I'u  rdconipensd  jjur  une 
mort  gloriouHc."    Montcalm's  skull  is  carefully  preserved  under  glass. 


The  first  Superlo-  i  f  M-  I  ,  "411110  Convent  was  Mother  Mario  de  I'Incamation, 
who  was  "  revon  I  a.  i  le  ioresa  of  iier  time.''  Slio  nia.«tereil  the  Huron  and 
Algonquin  latig'.n^os,  and  her  letter.s  to  France  form  one  of  tlu;  most  valuable  ree- 
onl.H  of  the  early  .  •>  :  Canada.  The  eonveiit  wa.n  founded  in  Vhi\\,  wjjeu  tiie  first 
ahhe.<<s  Ian '  ■  I  in  Quekx  •  nndd  tiie  sahite.s  of  Hie  ea.stle-battcrie.s  ;  and  the  npeciul 
worlt  of  tVi  111  as  was  tliat  of  odueatin)?  Hie  Indian  n'rls.  Tlie  convent  wa.s  burnt 
down  i'l  1  ■",  .nd  fiKain  in  rW'i,  when  the  (Irsulines  were  shelten'd  liy  tlio  Ilopital- 
litres.  The  Archl'isliop  ho^  recently  ordered  that  the  term  of  profession  shall  be  for 
seven  years,  instead  of  lor  life. 

Morrin  College  occupies  a  massive  stone  building  at  the  corner  of 
St.  Ann  and  Stanislas  Sts.,  and  is  the  only  non-Kpiscopal  Protc^ttant  col- 
lege in  the  Province.  It  was  founded  by  Dr.  Morrin,  and  has  5  professors, 
but  has  had  but  little  success  as  an  educational  institution.  The  build- 
ing was  erected  by  the  (lovcrmncnt  in  1810,  for  a  prison;  and  occupied 
the  site  of  an  ancient  fort  of  Champlain's  era.  It  was  used  as  a  prison 
until  the  new  Gaol  was  l)uilt,  on  the  I'lains  of  Abralunn,  and  in  the  N. 
wing  are  tlie  "siind)re  corridors  that  not  long  ago  resoundetl  witli  the  steps 
of  tlie  jailers,  and  the  narrow  cells  that  are  never  enlivened  by  a  ray  of 
light." 

The  *  Library  of  the  Quebec  Literary  and  Historical  Society  is  in  the 
N.  wing  of  Morrin  College,  and  contains  a  rare  collection  of  books  re- 
lating to  Canadian  history  and  science,  in  the  French  and  English  lan- 
guages. This  society  is  renowned  fov  its  valuable  researches  in  the  annals 
of  the  old  St.  Lawrence  Provinces,  and  has  published  numerous  volumes 
f  records  and  tran.*^'  f-tions.   It  inch des  in  its  menibersiiip  the  leading  liter- 

i  of  Eh!  .1  Canada.  There  is  a  small  but  interesting  museum  connected 
with  the  library-hall.     There  is  also  a  well-equipped  reading-room. 

St.  Andrew's  Church,  with  Its  school  and  manse,  occupy  the  triangle  at 
the  intersection  of  St.  Ann  and  Stanislas  Sts.  It  is  a  low,  quaint  build- 
ing, erected  in  1809  on  ground  granted  by  Sir  .James  Craig.  Previously, 
from  the  time  of  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  the  Scottish  Presbyterians  had 
worshipped  in  the  .Jesuits'  Coll  ,t!.  The  Wesleyan  Church  is  a  comforta- 
ble modern  building,  just  l)elow  Morrin  College;  beyond  which,  on 
Dauphin  St.,  is  the  chapel  of  the  Congregationali^ta  (Roman  Catliolic). 
At  the  corner  of  St.  John  and  Palace  Sts.  (see<.uil  story)  is  a  statue  of 
Wolfe,  which  is  nearly  a  century  old,  and  bears  such  a  relation  to  Quebec 
as  does  the  Mannikin  to  Brussels.  It  was  once  stolen  at  night  by  some 
12 


\ 

1 

1 

1 

1 

*,v 

1 

1 

1 

:M 

i 

1 

.Ml 

pi 

1 

V. 

•.1 

,5 

1 

i 

M 

fsas 


266      Route  68. 


QUEBEC. 


roystcring  naval  officers,  and  carried  off  to  Rarbadoes,  whence  it  was  re- 
turned many  months  after,  enclosed  in  a  coflin. 

The  *H6tel-Diou  Convent  and  Ilo.^pital  is  the  most  extensive  pile  of 
buildings  in  Quebec,  and  is  situated  on  I'niacc  St.  (r,  side)  and  the  IJam- 
part.  K.  of  the  lon;j;  ranges  of  buildings  (in  wliich  650  si(d<  jjcrsons  C!Ui  be 
accommodated)  are  pleasant  and  retired  giirdciis.  The  convent-church  is 
entered  from  Cliarlevoix  St.,  and  contains  valuable  pictures:  tlie  Nativity, 
by  Sttlla ;  the  Virgin  and  (.'hild,  Cdij/'il;  tlie  Vision  of  St.  Teresa,  .]fe7W- 
geot ;  St.  Bruno  in  xMeditation,  7.(^  »S//(W/- (called  '"the  Haphael  of  France"); 
the  *  Praying  Monk,  by  Znrlxtran  (undoubted);  and  fine  copies  of  the 
Twelve  Apostles,  by  Jinp/iacl,  and  the  Descent  from  the  Cross,  \:>y  Jiiibais 
(over  the  higli  altar). 

The  Hotel  Dieu  was  founded  by  the  Duchesse  (rAj;;uilloii  (niece  of  Cardinal  Riche- 
lieu) in  1' 39.  In  l(i54  one  of  the  iirescut  liuil(lin;.;s  was  erteted,  and  most  of  it  was 
built  durini;  the  ITtli  (enturv,  while  Talon,  Daron  des  Islets,  coini)leted  it  in  17t)2. 
There  are  ;}()-4()  cloistered  nuns  of  the  order  of  the  llnpitali.  res,  and  the  hospital 
i.s  open  freely  to  the  sick  and  infirm  ]ioor  of  whatever  sect,  with  attendance  hy  the 
best  doctors  of  the  city.  The  singing  of  the  nuns  during  the  Sunday  services  will 
intei-est  the  visitor. 

The  most  precious  relic  in  the  ll'tel-Dieu  is  a  silver  bust  (in  life  size)  of  Hn^beuf, 
in  whose  base  is  pre.s'rv(  d  the  skull  of  that  heroic  martyr,  .lean  de  lirelieuf,  a  Nor- 
man .lesuit  of  noble  blood,  arrived  at  Quetiec  with  ('han,]ilain  in  It'.'i'j,  and  went  to 
the  Iliu'on  country  the  next  year.  Here  he  had  fre(|iient  celestial  visions,  and 
labored  successfidly  in  the  work  of  converting  the  nation.     He  often  said;  "  i^mtio 


vie  i'( III  })ient< r  iitiptl/i  (til  Dioni  )uli())i  ]ini('li/isl( 


(1  his  wish  was  gni titled  when 


liis  nnssion-town  of  St  Ignace  \Yas  stormed  by  the  Iro(iuois  (in  1()4!))  lie  was  boiuid 
to  a  stake  and  S((irched  from  head  to  foot ;  the  savages  »'ut  away  his  lower  liji,  and 
thrust  a  red-hot  iron  down  his  threat ;  hung  arouinl  his  neck  a  necklace  of  red-hot 
C(^llars  (•'  but  the  indon  it;ible  priest  stood  like  a  i'o(  k"") :  poured  boiling  water  over 
hi.s  head  and  face,  in  demoniac  mockery  of  baptism  ;  cut  strii)s  of  tlesh  from  his 
limb.i.  ami  ate  them  befcjre  hi.s  eyes  ;  .«eaij>ed  him;  cut  ojien  his  breast,  and  drank 
his  living  blood  ;    lilled   his  eyes  with  live  <  oals  ;  and  after  foin-  hours  of  torture,  a 


1; 

chief  to 
of  the  I 

race, — 

*" 

never  In 

||. 

digions 
ishnient 

1: 

league  o 
exquisit 
telf:  th 
sacrifice 

•e  out  his  heart  and  devoured  it. 


Thus  died  .le-'in  de  lirebeuf,  the  founder 


luron  mission,  its  truest  hero,  and  its  greatest  martyr  He  came  of  a  noble 
the  same,  H  is  said,  from  which  sjirang  the  English  Karls  of  Arundel ;  but 
id  th(>  mailed  barons  of  his  line  ( onfronteil  a  late  so  ajipalling  with  so  pro- 
a  constancy.  To  the  last  In;  refus(>d  to  ilinch,  and  '  his  death  was  theasion- 
of  his  nuirderers.'  "  'J'he  ilelicate  and  slender  Laleniant,  ]5rebeuf'.s  col- 
in  the  mission,  was  tortured  for  seventeen  hours,  with  the  most  retin<>d  and 


i>  varieties  f)f  torment. 


It  was  said  that,  at  times,  he  seemed  lu'sidc  him- 


en,  lallxing,  with  hands  ujilifted,  he  oflered   his  sulTerings  to  Heaven  as  a 
."     The  bones  of  Lalemant  are  preserved  at  the  Ibtel  Dieu. 


Around  the  Ji( imparts. 

*  The  Citadel  is  an  itunuuise  and  iiowt'rful  fortification,  covering  40 
acres  of  ground,  and  is  situat"d  on  the  summit  of  Cape  Diamond  (so  called 
from  the  e-litterinrr  crvstals  found  in  the  vicinitv),  which  is  said  to  be  "the 
coldest  ])lace  in  the  Britisli  Kjiipire  "  Since  the  evacuation  of  Canada  by 
the  Imperial  troops,  the  Citadel  lias  been  garrisoned  by  Canadian  militia- 
men, and  visitors  are  usually  permitted  to  i>ass  around  the  wails  under 
the  escort  of  a  soldier.  The  **view  from  the  most  northerly  bastion 
(which  contains  an  inunense  Armstrong  gim)  sm-passe.s  that  from  the 
Dufferin  Terrace,  and  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  the  world.     The 


QUEBEC. 


Route  68.      267 


.ff    '1c 


!  it  was  re- 

isivc  pile  of 
1(1  the  Ram- 
"sons  can  be 
iit-church  is 
he  Nativity, 
■resa,  Mtw- 
if  France"); 
opies  of  tlie 
;s,  bv  Rubins 


ardinal  Riche- 
iiuist  of  it  ^\as 
tfd  it  in  1T<)2. 
Ill  tli<>  hii^pital 
ndaiicc"  l>v  the 
ay  servitfs  will 

«>)  of  Bri'-beuf, 
llivliciif,  aNor- 
i-'3,  aii<l  NNoiit  to 
iiil  visions,  and 
1  i«aiil :  "  Soilio 
s  {rriititicil  wlicii 
lie  was  iiound 
<  lower  lip,  imd 
laci-  of  red- hot 
inj;  water  over 
tlcsh  from  his 
a.st,  and  drank 
rs  of  torture,  a 
uf,  the  founder 
line  of  a  noble 
Arundel ;  but 
p;  with  so  pro- 
1  was  tlK'iislon- 
Brebeufs  col- 
'ost  refined  and 
cd  bei-idc  hini- 
to  lluuvun  as  a 


covering  40 
11(1  (so  called 
lid  to  be  "the 
oi'  Canada  by 
adian  niilitia- 
le  wails  under 
herly  bastion 
that  from  the 
>  world.    The 


St.  Charles  is  seen  winding  through  a  beautiful  undulating  plain,  and  the 
spires  of  Beauport,  Charlesbourg,  and  Lorette,  with  the  white  cottages 
around  them,  form  })lea.sing  features  in  the  landscape.  On  the  S.  of  the 
parade  are  the  oHicers'  cpiarters  and  the  bomb-proof  hospital,  while  bar- 
racks and  magazines  are  seen  in  advance.  The  armory  contains  a  great 
number  of  military  curiosities,  but  is  not  always  accessiiile  to  visitors. 
The  Citadel  is  separated  from  the  town  by  a  broad  glacis,  wliicii  is  broken 
by  three  ravelins;  and  the  wall  on  that  side  contains  a  line  of  casemated 
barracks.  The  etitranc(!  to  the  (citadel  is  by  way  of  a  winding  road  which 
leads  in  from  St.  Louis  St.  through  tiie  slope  of  the  glacis,  and  enters  first 
the  outer  ditch  of  the  ravelin,  beyond  the  strong  Chain  Gate.  Theiice  it 
passes,  always  under  the  mouths  of  cannon,  into  the  main  ditch,  wliich  is 
faced  with  masonry,  and  at  this  point  opens  into  a  narrow  parade,  over- 
looked by  the  retiring  angles  of  the  bastion.  The  curious  iron-work  of  the 
Chain  Gate  being  jiassed,  the  visitor  finds  himself  in  an  open  triangular 
parade,  under  the  loopholes  of  the  Dalhousie  Bastion. 

"  Such  structures  carry  us  back  to  the  Middle  Ages,  the  siege  of  Jerusalem,  and 
St.  .Jean  d'Aere,  and  the  days  of  the  lUicaiiiers.  In  the  armory  of  the  Citadel  they 
showed  me  a  clunisy  implement,  long  sinct;  us(!less,  which  th(!y  callt;il  a  Lombard 
gun.     I  thought,  that  their  whole  Citadel  was  such  a  liombard  gun,  fit  object  for  the 

museums  of  the  curious Silliinan  states  that  '  the  cold  is  so  intense  in  the 

winter  nights,  particularly  on  Cajie  Diamond,  that  the  sentinels  cannot  stand  it 
inm'e  than  one  hour,  and  are  relieved  at  the  expiration  of  that  time;  and  even, 
as  it  is  said,  at  much  shorter  intervals,  in  case  of  the  most  extrenu!  cold.'  T  shall 
never  again  wake  up  in  a  colder  night  than  usual,  but  I  sludl  think  how  rajiidly  the 
siiiifinels  are  relieving  one  another  on  the  walK  ol  Quebec,  their  ((iiii-ksilver  licing 
all  frozen,  as  if  a])prehensive  that  some  hostile  Wolfe  may  even  then  be  scaling  tho 
Heights  of  Abraham,  or  some  persevering  Arnold  about  to  issue;  from  tin;  wildi^rness  ; 
some  Malay  or  .lapaneso,  perchance,  coining  round  by  the  N.  W .  coast,  have  chosen 
that  moment  to  assault  the  Citadel.  Why  I  should  as  soon  expect  to  see  the  senti- 
nels still  relieving  one  another  on  the  walls  of  Nineveh,  which  have  so  long  been 
buried  to  the  world.  What  a  troublesome  thing  a  wall  is  I  1  thought  it  was  to  de- 
fend me,  and  not  1  it.  Of  course,  if  they  had  no  walls  they  would  not  need  to  have 
any  sentinels.'"     (Tiioreau.) 

The  Citailel  was  formerly  connected  with  the  Artillery  Barracks,  at  the  farther 
end  of  the  city,  by  a  bomb  i)roof  covered  way  1,P;37  yards  long.  These  fortifications 
are  345  feet  above  the  river,  and  considerably  higher  than  the  rpi)er  Town.  The 
rock  on  which  they  are  founded  is  of  dark  slate,  in  which  are  limpid  (lui.rtz-crystals. 

The  picturesque  walls  of  Quebec  are  of  no  defensive  value  siiic(>  the  modern  im- 
provements in  gunnery  ;  and  even  the  Citadel  could  not  prevent  dangerous  ai>- 
I>roaclies  or  a  bombardment  of  the;  city.  Skilful  military  engineers  havt;  therefore 
laid  out  a  more  extensive  system  of  modern  fortifications,  inciuiJing  lines  of  powerful 
detached  forts  on  the  heights  of  Point  Levi,  .•in:l  at  ."^illery.  The  former  were  liegua 
ill  lSt)7j  and  are  nearly  completed  ;  but  the  Sillery  forts  are  not  yet  commenced. 

The  spirit  of  utilitarianism,  which  has  levelled  the  walls  of  Fmnkfort  and  Vienna 
and  is  nenacing  Hoston  Common,  has  been  attacking  the  ramparts  of  Quebec  Pt 
many  years  The  St.  Louis  and  Prescott  Gates  were  removed  in  1871,  and  the  Pal- 
ace and  Hope  Gates  in  1873.  The  better  sentiment  of  the  .scholars  and  puhlir  men 
of  the  Province,  headed  l)y  Lord  Dufferin,  stayed  this  tide  of  so-called  improvement, 
and  started  the  work  of  restoration.  A  magnificent  new  portal  of  masonry,  with 
towers  and  mediicval  appurtenances,  was  (>reit(  d.  on  tlie  site  of  tlic  St.  Louis  Gate 
ill  1878-79  ;  and  at  the  same  time  another  very  imposing  entrance,  called  Kent 
Gate,  was  opened  between  this  and  St.  John's  Gate.  Other  projects  are  maturing, 
to  still  further  enrich  and  beautify  the  ancient  fortress  city,  and  to  erect  a  stately 
palace  for  the  Govcruors-Oeueral,  ou  the  Citadel. 


IV. 


ij 


liii 


mv 

>, 


r, 


•'J'Vi 


*'(•! 


268      ^(^ute  68, 


QUEBEC. 


The  Esplanade  extends  to  the  r.  from  the  St.  Louis  Gate  (within),  and 
the  tourist  is  recommended  to  wallt  along  the  ramparts  to  St.  John's  Gate, 
crossing  the  new  Kent  Gate,  viewing  the  deep  fosse,  the  massive  outworlis, 
and  the  antiquated  ordnance  at  the  embrasures.  On  the  r.  are  the  Con- 
gregational (Catholic)  riuirch.  and  the  National  School;  and  Montcalm's 
Ward  and  the  new  Parliament  Building  are  on  the  1.  *  St.  John's  Gate 
is  a  strong  and  graceful  structure  which  was  erected  in  18G9.  While  rally- 
ing his  soldiers  outside  of  this  gate,  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm  was  mortally 
wounded;  and  Col.  Brown  (of  Massachusetts)  attacked  this  point  while 
Arnold  and  Montgomery  were  fighting  in  the  Lower  Town.  To  the  1.  is 
St.  John's  Ward  (see  page  26!)) ;  and  the  road  to  St.  Foy  passes  below.  '  The 
ramparts  must  be  left  at  this  yioiut,  and  D'Auteuil  and  St.  Helene  Sts. 
follow  their  course  by  the  Artillery  Barracks,  amid  fine  grounds  at  the 
S.  W.  angle  of  the  fortifications.  The  French  garrison  erected  the  most 
important  of  these  buildings  (fiOO  ft.  long)  in  1750,  and  the  British  Govern- 
ment has  since  made  large  additions.  The  barracks  are  now  occupied  by 
r.overnment  works.  On  and  near  St.  Helene  St.  are  several  churches,  — 
St.  Patrick's  (Irish  Catholic),  Trinity  (Anglican),  the  Baptist,  and  the  Con- 
gregational. 

After  crossing  the  wide  and  unsightly  gap  made  by  the  removal  of  the 
Palace  Gate,  the  rambler  may  follow  the  course  of  the  walls  from  the 
Hotel  Dieu  (see  page  2G6)  to  the  Parliament  Building.  They  occupy  the 
crest  of  the  cliff,  and  command  fine  views  over  the  two  rivers  and  the  Isle 
of  Orleans  and  Laurentian  Mts.  The  walls  are  thin  and  low,  but  are  fur- 
nished with  lines  of  loopholes  and  with  bastions  for  artillery.  The  walk 
takes  an  easterly  course  beyond  the  angle  of  the  convent-buildings,  and 
passes  between  the  battlements  and  the  high  walls  of  the  Hotel-Dieu  gar- 
dens for  nearly  500  ft. 

The  Rtrtets  which  intersect  the  Rampart  beyond  this  point  are  of  a  quaint  and 
pleasing  character.  One  of  them  is  thus  described  by  Howells :  "  The  thresholds 
and  doiirsteps  were  covered  with  the  neatest  and  brightest  oilcloth;  the  wooden 
sidewalk  was  very  clean,  like  the  steep,  roughly  paved  street  itself;  and  at  the  foot 
of  the  hill  down  which  it  sloped  was  a  breadtii  of  the  (ity  wall,  pierced  for  musketry, 
and,  past  the  corner  of  one  of  the  liouses,  tiie  half-length  of  cannon  showing.  It 
had  all  the  charm  of  those  ancient  streets,  dear  to  Old-World  travel,  in  which  the 
past  and  present,  decay  and  repair,  peace  and  war,  have  made  friends  in  an  effect 
that  not  only  wins  the  eye,  but,  however  illogically,  touches  the  heart;  and  over 
the  top  of  the  wall  it  had  a  stretch  of  landscape  as  I  know  not  what  European 
street  can  command  :  the  St.  Lawrence,  bhie  and  wide  ;  a  bit  of  the  white  village  of 
Peauport  on  its  bank  ;  then  a  vast  breadth  of  pale  green,  upward-sloping  meadows  ; 
then  the  purple  heights;  and  the  liazy  heaven  above  them." 

Since  Prescott  Gate  fell,  there  was  "  nothing  left  so  picturesque  and  characteristic 
as  Hope  Gate,  and  I  doubt  if  anywhere  in  Europe  there  is  a  nmn'  mediaeval-looking 
bit  of  military  architecture.  The  heavy  stone  gateway  is  black  with  age.  and  the 
gate,  which  has  proV>ably  never  t)een  closed  in  our  century,  is  of  massive  frame,  set 
thick  with  mighty  bolts  and  spikes.  The  wall  here  sweeps  along  the  brow  of  the 
crag  on  which  the  city  is  built,  and  a  steep  street  drops  down,  by  ."tone- parapeted 
curves  and  angles  from  the  Upper  to  the  Lower  Town,  where,  in  1775,  nothing  but 
a  narrow  lane  bordered  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  considerable  breadth  of  land  has  since 
been  won  from  the  river,  and  several  streets  and  many  piera  now  stretch  between 
this  alley  and  the  water ;  but  the  old  Sault  au  Matelot  still  crouches  and  creepi 


QUEBEC. 


Route  6S.       269 


;  (within),  and 
>t.  John's  Gate, 
ssive  outworks, 
;  r.  are  the  Con- 
iiul  Montcahii's 
it.  John's  Gate 
).     While  rally- 
Im  was  mortally 
this  point  while 
n.    To  the  1.  is 
gsesbolow.  *  The 
St.  Helene  Sts. 
!  grounds  at  the 
erected  the  most 
•  British  Govern- 
now  occupied  by 
eral  churches,  — 
tist,  and  the  Con- 

e  removal  of  the 
le  walls  from  the 
They  occupy  the 
ivcrs  and  the  Isle 
low,  but  are  fur- 
lei-y.  The  walk 
nt-buildings,  and 
e  Hotel-Dieu  gar- 


are  of  a  quaint  and 
;:  "  The  thresholds 
iicloth ;  the  wooden 
(elf ;  and  at  the  foot 
liorced  for  musketry, 
iiunon  showing.  It 
ravel,  in  which  the 

friends  in  an  effect 
he  heart;  and  over 

not  what  European 
■  the  white  village  of 
rd-i^loping  meadows ; 

le  and  characteristic 
DC  medioeval-looking 
k  with  age.  and  the 
if  massive  frame,  set 
ong  tlie  brow  of  the 
,  y...  ptone-'rSrapeted 
in  i7T5,  nothing  but 
Ith  of  land  has  since 
now  stretch  between 
crouches  and  creepi 


along  imder  the  shelter  of  the  city  wall  and  the  overhanging  rock,  which  is  thickly 
bearded  with  weeds  and  grass,  and  trickles  with  abundant  moisture.  It  must  be 
an  ice-pit  in  winter,  and  I  should  think  it  the  last  spot  on  the  continent  for  the 
summer  to  find ;  but  when  the  siumner  h.'is  at  last  found  it,  the  old  Sault  au 
Matelot  puts  on  a  vagabond  air  of  Southern  leisure  and  abandon,  not  to  be  matched 
anywhere  out  of  Italy.  Looking  from  that  jutting  rcK-k  near  Hope  (late,  l)ehind 
which  the  defeated  Americans  toolc  refug«'  from  the  fire  of  their  enemies,  the  vista 
is  almost  uniijue  for  a  <ertain  scenic  squalor  and  gypsy  luxury  of  color:  sag-roofed 
barns  and  stables,  weak-backed  and  sunken-chested  workshops  of  every  sort  lounge 
along  in  tumble-down  succession,  and  lean  up  against  the  cliff  In  every  imaginable 
posture!  of  worthlessn«!Ss  and  decrepitutle;  light  wooden  galleries  cross  to  them  from 
the  second  stories  of  the  houses  which  look  back  on  the  alley  ;  and  over  these  galleries 
flutters,  from  a  labyrinth  of  clothes-lines,  a  variety  of  bright-colored  garments  of 
all  ages,  sexes,  anil  conditions  ;  while  the  footway  underneath  abounds  in  gossiping 
women,  smoking  men,  idle  poultry,  cats,  children,  and  large  indolent  Newfoundland 
dogs."     (IIowELLS's  A  Chance  Acquaintance.) 

Passing  the  ends  of  these  quiet  streets,  and  crossing  the  gaj)  caused  by 
the  removal  of  Hojjc  Gate,  the  Rampart  promenade  turns  to  the  S.,  by  the 
immense  block  of  the  Laval  University  (see  page  263)  and  its  concealed 
gardens.  Tbe  course  is  now  to  the  S.,  and  soon  reaches  the  *  Grand  Bat- 
tery, whe-ff  '..i  32-pounders  command  the  river,  and  from  whose  terrace  a 
pleasing  vie     may  be  obtained. 

A  short  ddtour  leads  out  again  to  the  Dufferin  Terrace  (see 
page  259)  Des  Carrieres  St.  runs  S.  from  the  Place  d'Armes  to  the  GoV' 
ernor's  Garden,  a  pleasant  summer-evenmg  resort,  with  a  monument  65  ft. 
high,  erected  in  1827  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Montcahn,  and  bear- 
ing the  elegant  and  classic  inscription: 

Mortem.     Virtus.     Communem. 

FaMAM.      HI8T<»I!IA. 

monumentum.    postekitas. 
Dedit. 

In  the  lower  garden  is  a  battery  which  commands  the  harbor.  Des 
Carrieres  St.  leads  to  the  inner  glacis  of  the  Citadel,  and  by  turning  to  the 
r.  on  St.  Denis  St.,  its  northern  outworks  and  approaches  may  be  seen. 
Passing  a  cluster  of  barracks  on  the  r.,  the  Chalmers  Church  is  reached. 
This  is  a  symmetrical  Gothic  building  occupied  by  the  Presbyterians,  and 
its  services  have  ail  rlie  peculiarities  of  the  old  Scottish  church.  Beyond 
this  point  is  St.  Louis  St.,  vvhence  the  circuit  of  the  walls  was  begun. 

The  Montcalm  and  St.  John  Wards  extend  \V.  on  the  plateau,  from  the 
city-walls  to  the  line  of  the  Martello  Towers.  The  population  is  mostly 
French,  and  the  quarter  is  entered  by  passing  down  St.  .John  St.  and 
through  St.  John's  Gate.  Glacis  St.  leads  to  the  r.,  just  beyond  the  walls, 
to  the  Convent  of  the  Gray  Sisters,  which  lias  a  lofty  and  elegant  chapel. 
There  are  a!)uut  70  mrns,  wlujse  lives  are  devoted  to  teaching  and  to 
visiting  the  sick.     This  building  shelters  136  orphans  and  infirm  persons, 


■::■■  ":i: 


■'■  i' .,  ' 


.^ 


rasB^ 


270      Moute  68. 


QUEBEC. 


I     ;( 


and  the  sisters  teach  700  female  chiMren.  It  overlooks  the  St.  Charles 
valley,  comrnandiiig  fine  views.  Just  )il)ove  the  nunnery  is  the  Convent 
of  the  Christiiin  Brothers,  fucino;  on  tiie  jrliieis  of  tln^  ranipiirt.  A  short 
distanee  out  St.  .lolm  St.  is  St.  Mattiu-w's  Church  (Episcopal);  beyond 
wliich  is  the  stately  Church  of  St.  John.  Claire-Fontaine  St.  leads  S- 
from  this  elunvli  to  the  (irande  AlU'e,  passing  just  inside  the  line  of  the 
Martello  Tower>;  and  Sutherland  St.,  leading  into  the  Lower  Town,  is  a 
little  way  heyond.  The  St.  Toy  toll-gate  is  less  than  i  M.  from  St.  John's 
Church.  The  Kent  Gate,  between  St.  John's  Gate  and  the  St.  Louis  (Jate, 
is  a  very  interesting  piece  of  feudal  architecture,  Mith  turrets,  arrow-slits, 
etc.  It  was  built  by  Queen  Victoria,  as  u  meiacnal  of  her  father,  the  Duke 
of  Kent. 

"  Above  St.  John's  Gate,  at  the  end  of  the  street  of  that  name,  devoted  entirely  to 
busino.^s,  tliere  is  at  .sunset  one  of  the  most  beautiful  views  imaginable-  The  river 
St.  Charles,  gambollinir,  as  it  were,  in  the  rays  of  the  departing  Inn.innry,  the  light 
still  lingering  on  the  spires  of  Lorette  and  Charlesbourg,  until  it  fades  away  beyond 
the  lofty  mountains  of  Douhonnne  and  Tonnonthuau,  presents  an  evening  scene  of 
gorgeous  and  surpassing  .splendor  "'     (Hawkins.) 

"^A  sunset  seen  from  the  heights  above  the  wide  valley  of  the  St  Charles,  bathing 
in  tender  light  tlie  long  miduhiting  lines  of  remote  ]iills,and  tran.'^fignring  with  glory 
the  great  eh:iin  of  the  Laurentides,  is  a  .sight  of  beauty  to  remain  in  the  mind  for- 
ever."'   (Marshall.) 

The  Montcalm  \V(ird  may  also  be  reached  by  passing  out  St.  Louis  St., 
through  the  intricate  and  formidable  lines  of  ravelins  and  redoubts  near 
the  site  of  the  St.  Louis  Gate. 

The  Convent  of  the  Good 
Shepherd  is  in  this  ward,  and  has,  in  its  church,  a  fine  copy  of  Murillo's 
"Conception,"  by  IMamondon.  There  are  74  nuns  h  're,  5)0  ])enitents,  and 
600  girl-students.  The  dark  and  heavy  median  al  structure  on  tiie  Grand 
Alice  was  built  for  the  Canada  Military  Asylum,  to  take  care  of  the  widows 
and  orphans  of  British  soldiers  who  died  on  the  Canadian  stations.  Near 
the  corner  of  De  Salaberry  St  is  Si.  Iiriilfjet\<  Anyliim,  connected  with  St. 
Patrick's  Church.  The  Ladies'  Protestmit  Home  is  nearly  opposite,  and 
is  a  handsome  building  of  white  brck,  wiiere  70  old  men  and  young  girls 
are  kept  from  want  by  the  bounty  of  the  ladies  of  Quebec. 

The  Martello  Towers  are  four  in  number,  and  were  built  outside  the 
extra-mural  wards  in  order  to  protect  them  and  to  occupy  the  line  of 
heights.  They  were  erected  in  1807-12,  iit  an  expense  of  S  60,000,  and 
are  arranged  for  the  reception  of  7  guns  each.  They  are  circular  in  form, 
and  have  Avails  13  ft.  thick  toward  the  country,  while  on  the  other  side  they 
are  7  ft.  thick.     The  Jail  is  about  J  M.  in  advance  of  the  towers,  .Mnd 

is  a  massive  stone  building,  with  walls  pierced  for  musketry.  Near  this 
point  (turning  to  the  1.  from  the  Grand  All^e  beyond  the  toll-gate),  and  on 
the  edge  of  the  Plains  of  Abraham  (exteiuling  to  the  S.),  is  a  monnnient 
consisting  of  a  tall  column,  decked  with  trophies,  and  rishig  from  a  square 
base,  on  which  is  the  inscription.* 


Route  68.      271 


.  Charles 
Convent 
A  short 
i;  beyond 
,  leads  S- 
line  of  the 
I'own,  is  a 
St.  John's 
.ouia  (iate, 
rrow-slits, 
•,  the  Duke 


(1  entirely  to 
.  The  river 
ry,  tlic  light 
iwiiy  beyond 
iug  scene  of 

rles,bn  thing 
;i<r  with  glory 
he  mind  for- 


.  Louis  St., 
loubts  near 

f  the  Good 
:)f  Murillo's 
niteiits,  and 

the  Grand 
|"the\vi(U)\vs 
ions.  Near 
Ited  with  St. 

])osite,  and 
Ivoung  girls 

I  outside  the 
the  line  of 

160,000,  and 

liar  in  form, 
lersiilethey 

1  towers,  and 
Near  this 

fate),  and  on 
monument 

lom  a  square 


QUEBEC. 

HKHE   DIED 

WOLFK 

VICTOIiloUS. 

Ski't.  i;i. 
17o0. 

"The  horror  of  the  niqrht,  the  prcripicc  sraled  by  Wolfe,  the  empire  he  with  a 
handful  of  men  udited  to  Kn^jiaud,  and  the  glorious  eatistroplie  of  coiitt'iifedly  ter- 
minating life  where  his  fame  began Ancient  ^tory  may  be  ransacked,  and 

ostentatious  philosophy  tlirown  into  the  uccouut,  before  au  episode  cau  be  I'uuud  to 
rank  with  Wolfe's."    (William  Pitt.) 

The  Lower   Town. 

The  most  picturesque  approitch  from  the  Upper  to  the  Lower  Town  is 
by  the  Champhdn  S(ej)s  (see  page  204).  Tliis  route  leads  to  tlie  busiest 
and  most  crowded  part  of  the  old  river  wards,  and  to  the  long  lines  of  steam- 
boat wharves.  Notre  Dame  des  Victoires  is  in  tlie  market  square  in  the 
Lower  Town,  and  is  a  plain  oH  structure  of  stone,  built  on  the  site  of 
Champlain's  residence.  It  was  erected  in  1690,  aii<l  was  called  Notre  Dame 
(hs  Victoires  to  comm(;morate  the  deliverance  of  the  city  from  the  Knglish 
attacks  of  1690  and  1711,  in  honor  of  which  an  annual  religious  feast  was 
instituted.  A  prophecy  was  made  by  a  nun  that  the  church  would  be  de- 
stroyed by  the  conquering  British;  and  in  1759  it  was  burned  during  the 
bombardment  froin  Wolfe's  batteries.  S.  of  Notre  Dame  is  tlie  spacious 
ClKimplain  Market,  near  an  open  square  on  whose  water-front  the  river- 
steamers  land.  The  narrow  Champlain  St.  may  be  followed  to  the  S., 
under  Cape  Diamond  and  by  tlie  point  where  Montgomery  fell,  to  the  great 
timber-coves  above. 

St.  Peter  St.  runs  N.  between  the  cliffs  and  the  river,  and  is  the  seat  of 
the  chief  trade  of  the  city,  containing  numerous  banks,  public  offices,  and 
wlioleside  houses.  The  buildings  are  of  the  prevalent  gray  stone,  and  are 
massive  and  generally  plain.  The  parallel  lane  at  the  foot  of  the  clitf  is 
the  scene  of  the  final  discomfiture  of  the  American  assault  in  1775.  It  is 
named  Sault  an  Matelot,  to  commemorate  the  leap  of  a  dog  from  the  cliff 
above,  near  the  Grand  Battery.  Leadenhall  St.  leads  off  on  the  r.  to  the 
great  piers  of  Pointe  a  Carey  and  to  the  imposing  classic  building  of  the 
*  Custom-House,  which  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Lawrence  atid  St, 
Charles  Rivers.  St  Paul  St.  nins  W.  from  near  the  end  of  St.  Peter  St., 
along  the  narrow  strip  between  the  St.  Charles  and  the  northern  cliffs,  and 
passes  the  roads  ascending  to  the  Hope  and  Palace  Gates. 

The  Queen's  Fuel-Yard  (1  side)  is  beyond  the  Palace  Market,  and  oecupies  the  site 
of  an  immense  range  of  buildings  erected  by  >1.  Begon,  one  of  tiie  later  Royal  In- 
tiMidants  of  New  France  Here  ajsn  live<i  Bigot  in  ail  the  feudal  fspiendor  of  the  old 
French  nnb'esse,  on  the  revenues  which  he  extorted  from  the  oppressed  Province. 
In  1775  the  palace  was  captured  by  Arnold's  Virginia  ritiemen,  who  so  greatlv  au- 
iioyed  the  garrison  that  tae  buildings  were  set  on  tire  and  consun»ed  by  shells  from 
tau  batteiies  of  tUu  Upper  Towu.     it  is  now  u  bay  uud  cattle  u^urkut. 


" 

1^ 

k 

\  I 

■A 

% 

m 

1 

i  'i 

1 

iWi. 

m 

1 

^v;f' 


,;  ;iw 


■■  ;•  i'  .: 


i 


I 


f 


^  if 


If 


272      Route  68. 


QUEBEC. 


.  St.  Paul  St.  is  prolonjiod  by  St.  Joseph  <S^,  the  main  thoroughfare  of  this 
quarter,  and  the  bnunthiry  between  the  .TaquesCartlerund  St.  Kodi  Wards. 
The  hitter  is  o('cui>ied   chiefly  by  niMniifactories  (on  the 

shores  of  the  St.  C'iiarles);  aiid  the  JiarvDW  and  plank-paved  streets  of 
Jaques  Cartier,  toward  the  northern  walls,  are  tilled  with  quaint  little 
houses  and  interesting  genw  views  about  the  homes  of  the  French-Canadian 
artisans.  St.  Roeh's  Church  is  a  very  spacious  bnildinj;,  with  broad  in- 
terior <!;allerie,^,  and  contains  several  reli<£ious  paintings.  The  Content  of 
Notre,  hiinw  is  opposite  St.  Koch's,  and  has  70  nuns  (black  costume),  who 
teach  725  children. 

The  *  Marine  Hospital  is  a  large  and  imposing  modern  building,  in 
Ionic  architecture,  situated  in  a  park  of  six  acres.  It  is  not  now  in  use. 
The  General  Hospital  and  the  monastery  of  Notre  Dame 
des  Anges  form  an  ext  'tisive  pile  of  buildings,  on  St.  Ours  St.,  near  the 
St.  Charles.  They  were  founded  by  St.  Vallier,  second  bishop  of  Quebec 
(in  16'j3),  for  invalids  and  incurables.  He  spent  100,000  crowns  in  this 
work,  erecting  the  finest  building  in  Canada  (at  tliat  time).  It  is  now 
conducted  by  a  sui)erior  and  45  nuns  of  St.  Augustine.  The  convent- 
church  of  Notre  Dame  des  Anges  has  14  paintings  by  Lerjare,  with  an 
Assumption  (over  the  high  altar)  dating  from  1(571. 

Pointe  mix  Licvres.  or  Hare  Point,  is  luwond  the  General  Iloppital,  on  the  mead- 
ows of  the  St.  Charles.  ]t  is  suppo.-ed  to  be  the  place  wliere  the  pious  Franciscan 
monks  founded  the  first  mis.-ion  in  ("nnada.  JiU(juus('artier"H  winter-quarters  in 
1536  were  here,  and  on  loaving  this  point  he  carried  off'the  Indian  king,  Donnacona, 
who  was  afterwards  hajiti/.ed  with  {^leat  p(  ni})  in  the  n.sifrnilitent  cathedral  of 
Rouen.  On  this  ground,  also,  the  army  of  Moutcalm  ti'ied  to  rally  after  the  disas- 
trous battle  on  the  I'laius  of  Abraham 

The  suburb  of  the  Bnn'ieue  lies  beyond  St.  Ours  St.,  and  is  occupied  by 
the  homes  of  the  V)wer  classes,  with  the  heights  toward  St.  Foy  rising  on 
the  S.     St.  Smivetii'^s  Church  is  the  only  fine  building  in  this  quarter. 

In  May,  1535, -lacquesCartier  with  his  patrician  officers  and  hardy  sailors  attended 
high  mass  and  received  the  bishop's  blessing  in  the  Cathedral  of  t^t.  !V!alo,  and  then 
departed  across  the  unknown  western  seas.  The  larjiest  of  Ids  vessels  was  of  only  120 
tons'  burden,  yet  the  tieet  crossed  the  o(ean  safely,  and  ascended  the  broad  8t.  Law- 
rence. Having  passed  tlie  dark  Sagnenay  dill's  and  the  vine-laden  shores  of  the  Isle 
of  Orleans,  he  t-ntered  a  broad  l)asin  where  "  a  ndghty  [iromontory,  rugged  and 
bare,  thrust  its  scarped  front  into  tiie  raging  current.  Here,  clothed  in  the  majesty 
of  solitude,  breatiiing  the  stern  jMietry  of  the  wilderness,  rose  the  clilfs  now  rich 
with  heroic  memories,  where  tlie  fiery  Count  Frontenac  east  defiance  at  his  foes, 
where  \\'olfe,  Montcalm,  and  ^hmtgomery  fell.  As  yet  all  was  a  nameless  barbar- 
ism, and  a  cluster  of  wigwams  held  the  site  of  the  rock-l)uilt  city  of  Quebec.  Its 
name  was  Stada<'ou  •,  and  it  owned  the  sway  of  the  royal  Donnacona." 

It  is  belli  as  an  old  tradition  that  when  Carrier's  Norman  saik)rs  first  saw  tlie 
promontory  of  Cape  Diamond,  they  shouted  "  (^iiel hfc .'  '■'  ("  What  a  beak  I '")  vdiich 
by  a  nattiral  elision  has  been  changed  to  (Quebec.  Others  claim  that  they  named  the 
place  in  loving  memory  of  Caudebec,  on  the  Seine,  to  which  its  natur;d  features  bear 
a  magnified  resemblance.  But  the  more  likely  origin  of  the  name  is  from  the  Indian 
word  kiher.  signifying  a  strait,  and  ap)>lied  to  the  couuiarative  narrowing  of  the  river 
above  the  Basin.     It  is,  however,  held  in 


M' 


rigu 


th.at  the  sea)  of  William  de  la  Pole,  Earl  of  Suffolk  in  the  15th  century,  bears  tlie 
title  of  Lord  of  Quebec.  This  noble  had  large  domains  in  Friince,  and  was  tlie  vic- 
tor at  Crevaut  and  Conipeigne,  and  the  conqueror  of  Joan  of  Arc,  but  was  impeached 


QUEBEC. 


Route  GS.       273 


fare  of  this 
)cli  Wards, 
(on  the 
>trects  of 
uaiut  little 
i-CaiiadiaTi 
I  broad  in- 
Conrent  of 
tume),  \vho 

luilding,  in 
low  in  use. 
S'otre  Dame 
,t.,  iiciir  the 
)  of  Quebec 
iwus  in  this 
It  is  now 
he  coiivent- 
ire,  with  an 


on  the  mrad- 
nis  Franc  iscan 
er-quartcrs  in 
g,  Domiaoonii, 

t-athedral  of 
ifter  the  disas- 

occupied  by 
'oy  rising  on 
:juarter. 

lilors  attended 
hilo,  and  tlien 
i\  as  of  only  120 
road  St.Law- 
nes  of  the  Isle 
y,  nijrged  and 
in  the  majesty 
litis  now  rich 
■e  at  liis  foes, 
iieless  barl)ar- 
i  Quebec.     Its 

first  saw  the 
)eakl'")  v,lnch 
liey  named  the 
features  bear 
nn  the  Indian 
np  of  the  river 
n  of  the  nanio 
ury,  bears  the 
id  was  the  vic- 
was  impeached 


and  put  to  death  (as  narrated  by  Shukespenre,  King  Henry  VI  ,  Part  IT.,  Act  IV., 
Scene  1)  for  losing  the  Knglish  provinces  in  France  after  ;J4  arduous  campaigns. 

When  L'artier  went  to  Montreal  ills  men  built  a  fort  and  prepared  winter-ciuarterf* 
near  the  St.  (!liarles  River.  Soon  alter  his  return  an  intense  cold  set  in,  and  neany 
every  man  in  the  Heet  \va.s  stricken  down  with  the  scurvy,  of  which  many  died  in 
great  siifTeiing.  In  the  springtime,  ('artier  planted  the  cross  and  tleur-de-lis  on 
the  site  of  Quebec,  and  returned  to  France,  carrying  King  Donnacona  and  several 
of  hi.s  chief-i  as  prisoners.  These  ]n(iians  were  soon  afterwards  received  into  the 
(Jatholic  Church,  with  mucii  pomj)  and  ceremony,  and  died  within  a  year,  in 
France.  In  1541  (.!artier  returned  with  5  vessels  and  erected  forts  at  Vai])  llonge, 
but  the  Indiiins  were  suspicious,  and  tae  colony  was  soon  abandoned.  Soon  after- 
wards Roberval,  the  Vic«'roy  of  New  France,  founded  another  colony  on  the  Hauie 
site,  but  after  a  long  and  miserable  winter  it  also  was  broken  up. 

In  the  year  llioH  the  city  of  Quebec  was  founded  by  the  noble  Champlain,!  who 
erected  a  fort  here,  and  laiil  the  foundations  of  Canada.  A  party  of  Franciscan 
monks  arrived  in  ItJlf),  and  the  Jesuits  came  in  lt)44.  In  1(128  Sir  David  Kirke 
Vainly  attackeil  the  place  wifli  a  small  English  Heet,  but  in  ItL'J  he  was  more  suc- 
cessful, and,  alter  a  long  idockade,  made  himself  master  of  Quebec.  It  was  restored 
to  Franco  in  l(i32 ;  and  in  I'i.'J")  (iovernor  Cham  plain  died,  and  was  buried  in  the 
Lower  Town.  Chami)lain's  successor  was  Charles  de  Montmagny,  a  brave  and  de- 
vout Kni;ht  of  Malta,  on  whom  the  Iroquois  bestowed  the  name  of  Onontio 
("  (ireat  Mountain  ■■).  The  work  of  founding  new  settlements  and  of  proselyting 
the  Ilurons  and  conibating  the  Iroquois  was  continued  for  tlie  next  century  from 
the  rock  of  Quebec. 

After  the  king  hitd  erected  his  military  colonies  along  the  St.  Lawrence,  he  found 
that  another  element  was  necessary  in  ordt^r  to  niak(>  them  permanent  and  progres- 
sive. Therefore,  between  1()65  and  l(i73  he  sent  to  Quebec  1,000  girls,  most  of  whom 
were  of  the  French  pea.santry  ;  though  the  Intendant,  mindful  of  the  tastes  of  hi» 
officers,  demanded  and  received  a  consigTunetit  of  young  ladies  ("  (ttmoisclles  bien 
choisies").  These  cargoes  included  a  wide  variety,  from  i'arisian  v.agrants  to  Nor- 
man ladies,  and  were  maliciously  styled  by  on«(  of  the  chief  nuns,  "mixed  goods  " 
(une  )narr/ian'/ise  nu'lee).  The  government  jirovided  tliem  with  dowries  ;  bachelors 
were  excluiled  liy  law  from  trading,  fi.shing,  and  iiunting,and  were  distinguished  by 
"  marks  of  infimy  '';  and  the  French  Crown  gave  bounties  for  children  (eacii  inhab- 
itant who  had  lO  ciiildren  being  entitled  to  a  pen.sion  of  from  400  to  800  livres). 
About  tlie  year  1664  the  city  indiilged  in  exti'aordinary  festivities  on  th(!  occasion 
of  the  arrival  of  the  bones  of  St.  Flavien  and  St.  Feliciti^,  which  the  I'ope  had  pre- 
sented to  the  catliedral  of  Quebec.  Tln^se  honored  relics  were  borne  in  solemn  pro- 
cession through  the  streets,  amid  the  sounds  of  martial  music  and  the  roaring  of 
saluting  batteries,  and  were  escorted  by  the  Manjuis  do  Tracy,  the  Intendant  Talon, 
and  the  valiant  Courcelles,  behind  whom  marched  the  royal  guards  and  the  famous 
Savoyard  regiment  of  Carignan-Salieres,  veterans  of  the  Turkish  campaigns.  The 
diocese  of  Quebec  was  founded  in  1074,  and  endowed  with  the  revenues  of  the  ancient 
abbeys  of  Maubec  and  Ik'ncvent.  In  the  same  shij)  with  Bishop  Laval  came  Father 
Hennepin,  who  explored  the  Mississippi  from  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  to  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  and  the  fearless  explorer  lia  Salle. 

In  1072  the  Count  de  Frontenac  was  sent  here  as  Governor,  and  in  KiOOlie  bravely 
repulsed  an  attack  by  Sir  \Vm.  Phipps's  fleet  (from  Boston),  inflicting  severe  damage 
by  a  cannonade  from  the  fort.  Besides  many  men,  the  assailants  lost  their  admiraTs 
standird  and  several  ships.  In  1711  Sir  Ilovenden  Walker  sailed  from  Boston 
against  Quebec,  but  he  lost  in  one  day  eight  vessels  and  884  men  by  shipwreck  on 
tlie  terrible  reefs  of  the  Egg  Islands.  Strong  fortifications  were  imilt  soon  offer ;  and 
ill  irsy  Gen.  Wolfe  came  up  the  river  with  8,000  British  soldiers.  The  Marquis  de 
I^Iontcalm  was  then  Governor,  and  he  moved  the  French  army  into  fortified  lines  on 
Beuiport  Plains,  where  he  defeated  the  British  in  a  sanguinary  action.  On  the 
night  of  Sept.  12,  Wolfe's  army  drifted  up  stream  on  the  rising  tide,  and  succeeded 
in  scaling  the  steep  clilTs  beyond  the  city.  They  were  fired  upon  by  the  French 
outposts  ;  but  before  Moutcaiin  could  bring  his  forces  across  the  St.  Charles  the  Brit- 

^  Chaniplain  was  horn  of  a  cood  family  in  t'le  province  of  Raintongf-,  in  1570.    lie  became 
a  naval  oiiicer,  ami  was  nftcrward  attai-hed  to  the  person  of  King  Henri  I^'.    In  Hi<):!  he  ex- 
'  ired  the  St.  Lawrence  Ri^•('r  up  to  the  .St.  Louis  Rupirts,  and  ntterwnrd  (until  his  death  in 


ij'ij)  he  explored  the  country  from  Nantucket  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Ottawa.  He  wns  a 
brave,  merciful,  and  zealous  chief,  and  held  thiit  **  the  salvation  of  one  soul  is  of  mo  e  im- 
portance than  the  founding  of  a  new  empire. '  He  established  strong  missions  among  the 
lluruus,  fought  the  Iroquois,  and  tounded  Quebec. 


'.I   '  »■ 


""  it'm 


t't 


':'  H 


12* 


B 


t  l,t 


274     Route  as. 


QUEBEC. 


*  \y 


I   i> 


Iflh  lines  wvw  fnriii«'<l  npon  th«>  Plains  of  Abrnhnm  ;  nnd  In  th«>  sbort  but  dospcrate 
buttle  which  t'lisiinl  Ixitii  ilic  ffrhcnilH  wd'f  mortally  Nvoiinili'd.  'Iht'  Huffish  lost 
t)t>4  null,  1111(1  lht>  KhmicIi  lost  l,r>(Mi.  Tht'  Kii'iich  iii'ni\ ,  wliicli  was  Inrtrcl.N  <  )ini|i(i!-('(l 
of  provinciiil  U'Vi<'H  (with  tli4>  regiments  of  liii  Oiiirnuf.  Ko.val  Uoussilon,  licarn,  ha 
Sarn',an(l  LanKiu'ilor),  ^cav»' waA ,  iiml  it'troattd  anons  tlii)  8t.  (JlmrU-s,  ami  a  li^w 
days  \nU'V  tlu'  city  suncntlcrcd 

in  Ajiril,  ITtKt,  the  Clu'valicr  di'  I/cvis  (of  that  Levis  fandly  —  Dukes  of  Ventadonr 
—  whi<h  <'lainied  to  possess  records  of  their  lineal  descent  fnini  the  |Mitrianh  Levi) 
led  the  leoif^anized  Kniich  army  to  St  Koy ,  near  (iiiei)ee.  (ieii.  Mnrra_\ ,  liopin^  to 
surprise  l>«'vis,  advanced  (\>ith  ;j,(Miti  men)  from  his  fine  position  on  the  Plains  of 
Abraham  ;  but  the  French  were  vigilant,  and  Murray  was  defeat)  d  and  hurled  biuk 
within  the  city  Kiites,  havin>^  lost  l,()(i()  men  and  kit  cannon.  Levis  now  laid  rlosu 
sie^e  to  the  <-its ,  and  batt«'red  tlu'  walls  (ami  especially  Ht  John's  (Jate)  from  thre« 
heavy  field-works,  (iuebet-  answered  with  an  almost  incessant  cannonade  from  i;{2 
(tuns,  initil  ("onuuodore  Swantou  eanu'  up  the  river  with  a  fleet  from  Kiif^land.  Tho 
Hritish  supremacy  in  Canada  was  soon  atlerwards  assiired  by  the  Treaty  ui  i'arifi, 
and  Voltaire  congratulated  Louis  X\ .  on  beini;  rid  (d"  J,ri(iO  leagues  of  frozen  eo\in- 
try."'  The  memorable  words  of  (iov  Shirley  before  the  iMa>saehnsetts  Lc|iislaturo 
(June  2S,  174t>),"  l'<m<tilti  ist  dehndu^''  w«'re  at  last  verified,  but  the  cnmpaijrns  bad 
cost  the  Hritish  (iovernment  !j?40(l,(»(l(> OdO,  and  resulted  in  the  loss  of  the  riche.-t  (d* 
Knjxlamrs  colonies.  For  the  attempted  taxation  of  the  Anu'ricims,  whicdi  resulted 
in  the  War  of  Independence,  was  planned  in  order  to  cover  the  detielt  caused  in  tlie 
British  Tn'asury  by  the  Canadian  eampaifiiis. 

In  the  winterof  177;")  (i  the  Americans  besieged  the  eity,then  coumHinded  by  (ion. 
Guy  Carleton  (afterwards  made  !,or<l  l)or(  hester).  The  provisions  of  the  besiegers 
beiran  to  fail,  their  reuiments  were  beintf  deplet«'d  by  sic  kness,  and  their  \\\i\\\  guns 
made  but  little  impression  on  the  ma.-sive  city  walls;  so  an  assault  was  order<'d  and 
eonducted  befoie  dawn  on  Dec.  81, 177').  In  the  midst  of  a  heavy  snow-storm  Arnold 
advanced  through  the  Lower  Town  from  his  ipiarters  near  the  St.  Charles  Kiver,  and 
led  his  S('(>  N«'w-Knglanders  and  \  irginiaiis  over  two  or  time  barricades.  'J'he  Mon- 
treal IJank  and  several  other  massive  stone  houses  were  tilled  with  Hritish  regiUars, 
win)  .gn.irded  the  approaclies  with  sneh  a  deadly  tire  that  Arnold's  n.en  were  forced 
to  take  irfuge  in  the  adjoining  lionses,  while  Arnold  himself  was  badly  wounded  and 
carried  to  the  rear.  Meanwhile  .Montgomery  was  leading  his  New-Yorkers  and  Con- 
tinentals N.  along  (Miamplnin  St.  by  the  river-side.  Tlie  intention  was  for  the  two 
attacking  columns,  letter  driving  the  enemy  from  the  Lower  Town,  to  unite  before 
tlie  Prestott  (hiW  and  carry  it  by  storm.  \  strong  barricade  was  stretched  across^ 
Chanii)lain  St.  fioni  the  cliff  to  the  river  ;  but  w  hen  its  guards  saw  the  great  masses 
of  tlie  attacking  column  advancing  through  the  twilight,  they  tied.  In  all  proba- 
bility Montgomery  would  have  crossed  the  barricade,  delivered  Arnold's  men  by  at- 
tacking the  enemy  m  the  ivar,  and  then,  with  l.odO  nuMi  flushed  with  victory,  would 
have  escaladed  the  I'rescott  (Jate  and  won  (iuebcc  and  Canada, —  but  that  one  of 
the  tieeing  Canadians,  imptdled  by  a  strange  ciijjricc,  turm  d  qiiic  kly  back,  and  fired 
the  cannon  which  stood  load(>d  on  the  barricade.  Mcnifgon.ery  and  many  of  his 
officers  and  men  were  stricken  down  by  the  shot,  and  the  (ohimn  broke  up  in 
panic,  and  tied.  The  British  forces  wen;  now  concentrated  on  Arnold's  n  en,  who 
were  hemmeil  in  by  a  sortie  from  the  Palace  Gate,  and  42t)  olHcers  and  n  en  were 
made  prisoners,  A  painted  board  has  been  hung  high  uj)  on  the  cliff  over  the 
place  in  Cliamplain  St.  where  Montgomery  fell.  Montgomery  was  an  officer  in  Wolfe's 
army  when  (Quebec  was  t.iken  from  the  Fi'ciudi  15  years  l)efoie,  and  knew  the 
ground.  His  mistake  was  in  heading  the  forlorn  hope,  tiuebec  was  the  ca])ital  of 
Canada  from  1700  to  171)1,  and  alter  that  it  served  as  a  semi-cajjital,  until  tlie  found- 
ing of  Otfciwa  City.  In  1845,2,9(10  houses  were  burnt,  and  the  place  was  nearly 
destroyed,  but  soon  revived  with  the  aid  of  the  great  lumber-trade,  which  is  still  its 
specialty. 

In  Seiiteniber,  1874,  Quebec  was  filled  with  prelates,  priests,  and  enthui-iastic 
people,  and  the  second  centennial  of  the  foundation  of  the  diocese  was  celebrated 
with  great  pomp.  Nine  triumphal  arches,  in  Latin,  Byzantine,  Konianesciue,  Clust-ic, 
and  (lOthic  architecture,  were  erected  over  the  streets  of  the  Ipjicr  Town,  and  dcdi- 
CJit(>il  to  th(>  metropolitan  dioceses  of  North  America  ;  an  imposing  proc  ession  passed 
under  them  and  into  the  Cathedral,  which  was  endowed  on  that  day  with  the  name 
and  privileges  of  a  basilica;  and  at  evening  the  city  was  illuminated,  at  a  cost  of 
8? 30,000.  In  the  pageant  was  borne  the  ancient  flag  of  Ticonderoga  (Lf  Draff av  de 
CmriUon),  which  tioated  over  Montcalui'd  victorious  uriuy  wheu  he  defeatecl  Aber- 


QUEHEC. 


Route  GS.      275 


it  (Ipnyiorate 

Is  I  (illl|i(lh»'d 

,"  IW'iirn,  \a 
,  ami  ti  It'W 

f  Voiitadniir 
rliircli  l.«vi) 
\ ,  lidjiiiin  U» 
\v  riaJiiN  of 

w  Itiitl  cloMJ 
I  tniiii  llircH 
(|«>  tiniii  i:i2 
ftlaiid.  Tho 
iitv  of  Paris, 
frown  fouii- 
<  Ltgislature 
MpaipiH  had 
he  riclu'.'t  of 
licli  K'sulU'd 
auHcd  ill  tliu 

nd«'d  l>.v  (!(>n. 
tilt'  ln'sityt-rs 

ir  li^lit  H""*^ 
ordfivd  and 
storm  Arnold 
U's  Kivor.and 
s.     Tli«'  Moii- 
tisli  n'gulars, 
1  w«>r«'  fori  od 
wouiid«'(l  and 
ii'rs  and  Con- 
for  till!  two 
nnite  ln'fore 
tclied  ucroJ^a* 
Uri'at  innssi'8 
n  all  probu- 
s  nu'n  bv  at- 
ictorj,  would 
tliat  one  of 
ick,  and  fired 
many  ot  Ins 
brolie   up  in 
s  u  en,  wlio 
a  n  en  were 
litf  over  tlie 
eriu  Wolfe's 
nd  l<new   tlie 
he  eui)ital  of 
til  tlie  found- 
e  was  nearly 
lich  18  still  its 

enthusiastic 
as  eelebrated 
'stjuo,  C'liist-ic, 
wn ,  and  dedi- 
1  ession  passed 
ith  the  name 

at  a  eost  of 
,p  Draffav  de 
efeated  Aber- 


rrntnhln  on  T^kn  OhanipliUn  (July  8,  1758),  and  is  now  one  of  the  moMt  ostceiiwHl 
tropliiuH  of  (|i.el>ec. 

The  iinnalM  of  the  (Miuroh  eontain  no  (grander  chapter  than  that  which  records 
tho  career  of  the  ('iiiiiidian  .lenuit'H.  Unarmed  and  alone,  they  passed  forth  from 
(^iiehc(t  and  Montreal, ami  traversed  all  tlie  wide  re^^ioii  hiitween  !i;ihi'ador  and  tlio 
remote  W'e-it,  bravely  meeliii;^  death  in  its  most  lin^eriii^  and  horrible  forniK  at 
tlio  hands  of  tin;  vindictivi!  sav.i)j;es  whom  they  came  to  bless.  Their  achievementu 
and  their  fati;  tilled  tin;  world  with  ainaZement.  Kven  i'liritaii  New  Kiiglaiid, 
proudly  and  sternly  jealous  of  her  reli„nous  liberty,  received  tlieir  envoy  with 
honors;  Boston,  I'lyinoiith,  and  Saluni  alike  beeaiiK;  his  ^^racious  liosts  ;  and  tiiu 
A|iostle  Kliot  enttirtained  him  at  his  Jtoxbnry  parsoiia;^e,  and  ur^ed  lihn  to  remain. 

"To  the  Jesuits  the  atmospliere  of  Quebec  was  wellni;<li  (u-le-itial.  'In  the  cli- 
mate of  N('W  Kranci','  they  write,  '  one  learns  perfectly  to  scc^k  only  one  («od,  to 
have  no  desin*  biitOol,  no  purpose  but  for  (lod.'  And  ayuiii  :  ' 'I'o  live  in  New 
France  is  in  truth  to  live  in  the  bosom  of  (Jod.'  '  If,"  adds  he  Jeune,  'any  one  of 
those  who  die  in  this  eoiintiy  ^oes  to  perdition,  I  think  ho  will  be  doubly  guilty.'  " 

"  Meanwhile  from  Old  France  to  New  came  suci'ors  and  reinforcements  to  tho 
missions  of  the  forest..  .More  Jesuits  crossc-d  the  sea  to  nrj^e  on  the  work  of  coiivor- 
Kion.  These  wen;  no  stern  exiltJS,  seekiiin  mi  barbarous  shores  an  asylum  for  a  |JC'r- 
soeiited  faitli.  Rank,  wealth,  po.ver,  and  royalty  il.self  smiled  on  theirenterpri.se, 
and  baile  them  (iod->peed  Yet,  withal,  a  fervor  more  inten.se,  a  Si'lf-abueyatiou 
more  complete,  a  .-elf-devotitm   more  constant  and  enduring,  will  scarcely  find  its 

i-ecord  on  the  p.i^[;(.>s  of  human  history It  was  her  nobler  and  purer  part  that 

nave  life  to  the  early  missions  of  New  France.  That  gloomy  wilderness,  those 
hordes  of  savages,  had  notliing  to  teuipt  the  ambitious,  the  proud,  the  grasping,  or 
the  indolent.  Obscure  toil,  doiitudo,  privation,  liardship,  and  death  were  to  be  the 
niissioniiry's  portion 

"The  .lesnits  had  borne  all  that  the  human  frame  seems  capable  of  bearing. 
They  had  escaped  as  by  mirach;  from  torture  and  death.  Did  their  neal  flag  or  their 
eourage  fail  '.  A  fervor  intense  and  uiKiueiichable  urged  them  on  to  more  distant 
and  more  di^adly  ventures.  The  beings,  so  near  to  mortal  sympathies,  so  hiimau, 
yet  .so  divine,  in  whom  tlieir  fiitli  impijr.sonated  and  dramatized  the  great  principles 
of  Christian  f.iith,  —  virgins,  .saints,  and  angels,  -  liovered  over  them,  and  held  be- 
fore their  raptured  sight  crowns  of  glory  and  garlands  of  immortjU  bli.ss.  They 
lairned  to  do,  to  suiler,  and  to  die  ;  and  nosv,  friin  out  a  living  martyrdom,  they 
turneii  their  heroic  g ize  towards  an  horizon  dark  with  i)erils  yet  more  api)alling,  and 
saw  ill  hope  the  day  when  they  should  bear  the  cross  into  tlie  blood-stained  dens  of 
the  Iroc|nois. 

In  lt)47,  when  the  powerful  and  bloodthirsty  Iroriuois  were  sweeping  over  Can- 
ada in  all  direction.s,  the  Superior  of  the  Jesuits  wrote:  "  Do  not  iiiiagiue  that  the 
rage  of  the  Iroiiuoi.s,  and  the  loss  of  many  (Christians  and  many  catechumens,  can 
bring  to  nauglit  the  mystery  of  the  cross  of  .lesus  ("hrist  and  the  efficacy  of  liis 
blooil.  We  siiall  die  ;  we  shall  be  captured,  burned,  butchered:  be  it  so.  Those 
who  die  in  their  beds  do  not  always  die  the  best  death.  I  see  none  of  our  company 
cast  down.  On  the  contrary,  they  ask  leave  to  go  up  to  the  liurons,  and  some  of 
tiiem  protest  that  the  fires  of  the  lro(iuois  are  one  of  their  motives  for  the  journey." 
'"Tlie  iron  JJrebeuf,  the  gentle  Uarnier,  the  all-enduring  .loguea,  the  enthusiitstic 
Ohaumonot,  lialemant,  Le  Mercier,  Chatelain,  Daniel,  I'ijart,  Itogueneau,  Du  Peron, 
Poncet,  Le  Moyiie,  —  one  and  all  bore  themselves  with  a  tramjuil  boldness,  which 

amazed  the  Indians  and  enfoned  tlieir  respect When  we  look  for  the  result 

of  these  missions,  we  soon  become  aware  that  the  influence  of  the  French  and  the 
Jesuits  extended  far  beyond  tho  ciivle  of  converts.  It  eventually  modified  and 
softened  the  manners  of  many  unconverted  tribes.  In  the  wars  of  tJie  next  century 
we  do  not  often  find  those  examples  of  diabolic  atrocity  with  which  the  earlier  an- 
nals are  crowded.  The  .savage  burned  his  enemies  alive,  it  is  true,  but  he  seldom 
ate  them  ;  neither  did  he  torment  them  with  the  same  deliberation  and  persistency. 
He  was  a  savage  still,  but  not  so  often  a  devil.''     (Parkm.\n.) 

The  traveller  who  wishes  to  study  more  closely  this  suldime  e))isode  in  the  New- 
\Vor!d  iiistorv  m.'iy  consult  the  bri!!i;!nt  and  picturesque  historicai  narratives  of  Mr. 
Francis  Parkman  :  "  Tlie  Jesuits  of  North  America,''  'The  Pioneers  of  France  in 
tlie  New  World,"  and  "  La  Salle  and  the  Discovery  of  the  Great  West."  LeMoine's 
"  Quebec,  Past  and  Present,"  and  "  Picturesque  Quebec,"  should  also  be  read. 


^••( 


m 


i.  • 


i4ii 


276      Route  69. 


BEAUPORT. 


lit 


i 


1: 


f    5 


jf  »i 


m 


I 


69.  The  Environs  of  Quebec. 

This  dl^trirt  la  fniiiod  for  ItH  beauty,  unci  is  filU'd  with  oltjcrts  of  Intrroot  to  the 
touriHt.  Tlu'  Miliurliaii  villap'S  ciiii  in-  vi^iffd  \>\  )if(li-f<trlaii  UniTf  ;  Imt  in  tliiit 
cusii  it  iH  bi-.st  t«)  (lit  <>n  ('(luiiiiiiiiiiatioii  with  tlu>  citv,  hikI  to  swci  p  aroiuid  on  tliv 
great  i-iirve  wliicii  iiuludcf*  tlic  cliiif  pdint.-*  (it  attrm  tioii.  Tin-  villa^r^  inns  t'llrni^ll 
poor  uffounnodations.  Sucli  a  walliint;  tonr  ."liould  In-  talii-n  oidy  aUvr  a  H'ason  of 
dry  weatlier,  el:e  tiio  roads  will  be  found  very  muddy  Hut  all  tin-  world  ^ovh  about 
in  carriages  here,  and  u  tuUrlw  and  <liivef  can  be  iiiicd  at  very  low  rates  (mc  |inf?« 
266).  Tlie  diivers'  statements  of  distaiues  ean  seldom  be  relied  on,  for  tliey  geu- 
erally  err  on  the  side  ol  expansion. 

"I  don't  know  wlietber  T  eared  more  for  Quebec  or  the  beantiful  little  villapes  In 
the  country  all  about  it.  The  whole  land.-eape  loolis  just  like  a  dream  <tf  '  Kvan- 
geline.'  ....  Ihit  if  we  are  lomin^'  to  Uic  k''""*'  •'""'  beaiitiful,  why,  there  is  no 
direction  in  which  jou  can  look  aliout  Quel cc  without  seeinj,'  it  ;  and  it  is  always 
ndxei  up  witli  something  so  fand'iar  and  homelike  that  my  heart  warms  to  it." 
(IIowELLs's  A  Chance  Acquaintatut.) 

**Tlie  Falls  of  Montmorenoi  iiro  7  M.  from  tlie  Dorchester  Rrldpe, 
■which  is  about  1  M,  from  tlio  rp])er-'I"o\vii  iMiirket  Sqiuirc,  'I'he  route 
usually  takeu  leads  down  Palace  St.  and  by  the  (Queen's  Fuel-Yard  (see 
page  271)  and  St,  Roeli's  Church.  As  the  bridge  is  being  crossed,  the 
Marine  Hospital  is  seen  on  the  1.,  and  on  the  r.  are  the  shipyards  of  St. 
Roch's  Ward  and  the  suburb  of  St.  Charles.  The  road  is  broad  and  firm, 
and  leads  across  a  fertile  ])l!iin,  with  fine  retrospective  views.  The  Beau- 
port  Lunatic  Asylum  is  soon  reached,  near  which  is  the  villa  of  Glenulhi. 
The  asylum  formerly  consisted  of  two  large  buildings,  one  for  etich  s  ':•  ,* 
but  the  female  department  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  Januiirv,  1876,  and. 
several  of  its  inmates  were  burnt  with  it.  Beauport  is  'd^-b  M.  from 
Quebec,  and  is  a  long-drawn-out  village  of  1,300  inhabitjints,  with  a  tall 
and  stately  church  whose  twin  spires  are  seen  from  a  great  disttmce. 
There  are  several  flour  and  barley  mills  in  the  parish,  and  a  considerable 
lumber  business  is  done.  The  seigniory  was  founded  in  1634  by  the  Sieur 
Giffard,  and  along  its  plains  was  some  of  the  heaviest  fighting  of  the  war 
of  the  Conquest  of  Canada. 

It  is  "  in  that  part  of  Canada  which  was  the  first  to  be  settled,  and  where  the  face 
of  the  country  and  the  i)eople  iiave  undergone  the  least  channe  from  the  beginning, 
where  the  influence  of  the  States  and  of  Europe  is  least  felt,  antl  the  inliabitants  see 
little  or  nothing  of  the  world  over  the  walls  of  Quebec."  The  road  from  Quebec  to 
St.  Joachim  is  lined  by  a  continuous  succe<sion  of  the  quaint  and  solid  little  Cana- 
dian liouses  of  whitewashed  stone,  placetl  at  an  angle  with  the  street  in  order  to 
face  tlie  south.  The  farms  are  consequently  remarkably  narrow  (sometimes  but  a 
few  yards  wide  and  h  M.  long),  and  the  country  is  bristling  with  fences  In  1G64 
the  Frencli  king  forbade  that  the  colonists  should  make  any  more  clearings,  "  except 
one  next  to  another"  ;  but  in  1745  he  was  obliged  to  order  that  their  farms  sliould 
he  not  less  than  1^  arpents  wide.  These  narrow  domains  arose  from  the  social  diar- 
acter  of  the  people,  wlio  were  thus  brought  close  together ;  from  their  need  of  con- 
centration as  a  defence  against  the  Indians;  and  from  tlie  subdivision  of  estates  by 
Inheritance.  The  Latin  Catholicism  of  the  villagers  is  shown  by  roadside  crosses 
rising  liere  and  there  along  the  way. 

So  lat«  as  1827  Montmorenci  County  (wtiich  is  nearly  as  large  as  Massachusetts) 
had  but  5  shops,  30  artisans,  2  schools,  5  churches  (all  Catholic),  and  6  vessels  (with 
an  aggregate  of  59  tons).  There  has  been  but  little  change  since.  In  1861,  out  of 
11,136  inhabitants  in  the  county,  10,708  were  of  French  origin,  of  whom  but  a  few 
score  understand  the  EugUsh  language. 


Sprout  to  the 
liut  in  tlint 
.11111(1  on  tliv 
mis  tuniifU 
a  Kcasdti  (tf 
I  loot's  alioiit 

r  tlii'y  g«'U- 


Ic  viUitpps  In 
,11  (if  '  Kvtiii- 
,  tlurc  is  no 
I  it  is  iil\vii.\8 
iiniis  to  it." 


ter  Bridpo, 

The  route 
l-Yard  (see 
rossod,  the 
^-iirtls  of  St. 
(1  and  firm, 

The  Beau- 
if  Glent.lhi, 
•  eacli  i' ':  ; 
•,  1875,  and 
-5  M.  from 

with  a  tall 
distance. 

onsi(U'ral)lo 
tlie  Sieur 
of  the  war 


luTo  the  face 
icgimiing, 
abitiiuts  see 
111  Quebec  to 

little  Cuna- 

in  order  to 

times  but  a 

es      In  lti64 

gs,  "  except 

arms  should 

social  char- 
need  of  con- 
)f  estates  by 
ilside  crosses 

issachusetts) 
vessels  (with 
1861,  out  of 
301  but  a  few 


MONTMOKKNCl   FALLS.         Jloule  09.      277 

M.  Rameaii  ("Lrt  France  (tu.r  Cnlnnlfs")  has  proved,  after  niiicii  labor  and  re- 
Boarch,  that  the  colonists  who  settled  the  Cote  ile  Iteaiipre  and  Heiinport  were  from 
tiio  am  i<'nt  French  province  of  La  Perche  ;  adding  that  Montreal  was  colonized  from 
tlio  province  of  Anjoii,  the  Isle  of  Orleiiis  from  I'uitou,  and  Quebec,  Trois  Uivi<:r«», 
uud  the  Uichelieu  valley  from  Normandy. 

Beyond  the  clnuTh  of  IW^auport  the  road  continues  psist  the  narrow  do- 
mains on  citiier  hand,  anil  run^i  alon;;tliesideof  tin;  Ihildiniand  estate.  The 
Montmorcnci  Uiver  is  crossed,  and  tlie  traveller  stops  at  the  Montmortnci 
Jiegtanrdutf  where  hnich  may  he  oiitaincd.  At  this  point  admission  is 
given  to  the  grounds  al)out  tlio  Kails  (fee, '2uc.);  and  the  tourist  should 
visit  not  only  the  pavilion  near  the  hrink  (which  commands  a  charming 
view  of  Quehec),  hut  also  the  small  platform  lower  down  (and  reached  by 
a  long  stairway),  whence  the  best  front-view  is  olitained.  The  descent  to 
the  basin  below  is  didicult,  and  will  hardly  repay  the  labor  (»f  the  return. 
A  short  distance  below  the  Kails  is  the  continence  of  the  Montmorcnci 
with  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  innnense  saw-milis  are  located  there,  employ- 
ing 7  -  800  men  and  cutting  up  2,500  logs  a  day.  Near  the  Kails  is  JldUi- 
■iiiand  House,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Kent,  Queen  Victoria's 
father;  and  on  the  clills  by  the  river  are  seen  the  towers  of  a  suspension* 
bridge  which  fell  soon  after  its  erection,  hurling  three  persons  aito  the 
fatal  abyss  below.  At  the  toot  of  these  Kails  an  immense  ice-cone  (some- 
times 200  ft.  high)  is  formed  every  winter,  and  here  the  favorite  s{iort  of 
tobogganning  is  carried  on.  The  *  Natural  Steps  are  1^  M.  above  the 
Falls,  where  the  Montmorcnci  is  contracted  into  a  narrow  limit  and  rushes 
down  with  great  velocity,  having  cut  its  bed  down  through  successive 
s^'rata  and  leaving  step-like  terraces  on  either  side.  Kine  specimens  of 
trilobites  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity. 

The  road  running  on  beyond  the  Montinorenci  Kestaurant  leads  to  Ange 
Gardien  and  St.  Anne  (see  Route  70).  The  views  on  the  way  back  to 
Quebec  are  very  beautiful. 

The  old  French  habitans  call  the  Mon^moreiici  Fall,  Ln  Varhe  ("The  Cow"),  on 
account  of  the  resemblance  of  its  foamipj;  waters  to  milk.  Otliers  attribute  this 
name  to  the  noise  like  the  lowing  of  a  cow  which  is  made  by  the  Fall  during  tho 
prevalence  of  certain  winils.  Immediately  about  the  basin  and  along  the  ilont- 
niorenci  Kiver,  many  severe  actions  took  place  during  Wolfe's  siege  of  Quebec. 
This  river  waa  for  a  time  the  locatioa  of  the  picket-lines  of  tlie  British  aud  French 
armies. 

"  It  is  a  very  simple  and  noble  fall,  and  leaves  nothing  to  be  desired It  is  a 

splendid  introduction  to  the  scenery  of  Queliec.  Instead  of  an  artificial  fountain  ia 
its  sciuare,  liiiebec  has  this  magniticent  natural  waterfall  to  adoru  one  side  of  its 
harbor."     iTiioiiKAU.) 

"  The  effect  on  the  beholder  is  most  doliglitful.  The  river,  at  some  distance, 
.<;eems  suspended  in  the  air,  in  a  sheet  of  billowy  foam,  and,  contrasted,  as  it  is, 
with  the  black  frowning  abyss  into  which  it  falls,  it  is  an  object  of  the  highest  in- 
terest. It  has  beeu  compared  to  a  white  ribbon,  suspended  in  the  air  ;  this  com- 
parison does  justice  to  the  delicacy,  but  not  to  the  grandeur  of  the  cataract  "    (tsii/- 

LIMAN.) 

"  A  safe  platform  leads  along  the  rocks  to  a  pavilion  on  a  point  at  the  side  of  the 
fiill,  and  on  a  level  with  it.  Here  the  gulf,  nearly  300  ft.  deep,  with  its  walls  of 
chocolate-covered  e.irth,  and  its  patches  of  emerald  herbage,  wet  with  eternal  spray, 
opens  to  the  St.  Lawrence.     Moutmoreuci  is  one  of  the  loveliest  waterfalls.     In  its 


■■'f , 


' 


n 


A     •»  J 


278      Route  69. 


INDIAN    LOKETTE. 


I   •  !'' 


'  t 


\^ 


gciuTitl  rhiiriicNT  It  bonrs  «)mt>  ivw'inlilanco  to  the  IM«»e-VHrhe,  In  Switwrlnnd, 
wliich,  however.  In  iiiik'Ii  miinller.  The  wiifer  Is  -now-white,  tinfiMJ,  in  Hie  lieiivieiit 
i)oiH«niK  of  tl»«  till!,  wifli  H  soft  \eliow,  lil<e  rlmt  ofiiiw  «lli<.  In  fiief,  l.n.ken  >{>*  if  in 
li.v  fin-  irn-jtuliir  eilire  of  the  rocl<.  it  reniiml-*  one  of  nm'^Ke«<  of  fillten,  t|oHf<y  hIteiriM, 
rontitmiilly  overlii|i|iinir  one  miotlier  iis  tliey  full  At  the  i)ottoni,  iliif«hei|  tiiioti  a 
pile  of  ro(  ks,  it  Hlioofs  far  out  in  f<tnr-like  rinlii  of  f<pra\,  wliicii  sliare  tlie  re;;uiiir 
tlirol)  or  pulHiition  of  the  failinj^  inaj^seM.  '{'lie  eil^es  of  the  full  tliifter  out  into 
lace-like  poiiitH  and  frinKc^*,  Miii'h  diMsoIvo  iutu  kiiii-m.'  uh  they  Ui'Hcond."  (Uavakd 
TAvr.ou.) 

*'  TIjo  FallH  of  Montinon'ticl  present  th«'  niont  ninj»«Hti<'  npertHcle  in  all  thin  vlcln- 
Jty,  iinil  even  in  tlie  I'mvini  e.  I  he  river  in  its  «onr>e  tliroiiKli  u  country  wliidi  Ih 
coven'il  with  an  alnio>t  iinl)rokeii  tore^t,  lias  an  incon.sideralile  flow  of  water  except 
uiiun  Nwclleil  hy  the  nieltin)^  of  tlie  snow  or  tlie  aiilnninai  rains,  until  it  reaches  tho 
precipice,  wliere  it  is  H-  Id  tatlionis  wiiliv  Its  hod,  Iteiii^^  inclined  liefore  arriving  at 
tliis  point,  (fives  a  (?n'at  velocity  to  flie  current,  wliidi,  pii>lied  on  to  the  verp'  of  a 
perpendicular  rock,  forms  a  larp"  sheet  of  water  of  a  whil«'ness  and  a  ticecy  appear- 
ance which  n-seinblert  snow,  in  filling,'  in  a  ciiasin  auionif  the  rinks  t2ol )  ft  liejovv. 
At  the  liottoni  there  rises  an  iinniense  foam  in  undulating  masses,  which  wlieu 
tilt'  sun  linlits  up  flicir  hrilliuut  prismatic  colors,  produces  un  inconceivably  beauti- 
ful «tleft."     (Uoui  ili/iTK.) 

*'  For  those  who  p;o  from  Montmorenci  to  Quebec,  the  time  to  be  on  tho  road  la 
about  sunset.  The  city,  cliiiil)iii(i  up  from  tlie  (jreat  river  to  the  heinhts,  on  which 
ptands  thecastle,  looks  espc<  ially  beautiful  in  tlie  warm  lifrht  tliat  then  falls  full  upon 
It,  and  tlie  level  rays,  striking  on  the  ipiMinl  old  metal-slieatlied  roots  and  on  all  the 
>M*stward-fiu  iuff  windows,  lifjlit  up  tlie  town  with  a  diamond-hkc  t<purkling  of  won- 
derful brilliuncy."     (Wuitk's  Sketrlies  Jroin  At/uricu.) 

*  Indian  Lorette  (sihmII  imi)  is  y  M.  from  (Quebec,  by  tho  Little  River 
Koiul.  It  is  iiii  iiijcicnt  villaijc  of  tiie  Iliiroiis  ("Cjitholics  luid  allieH  of 
France"),  and  the  present  inhtilntanls  are  a  quiet  and  reli{,nons  people  in 
whom  the  Indian  blood  predominates,  thoup;li  it  is  never  umnixed.  The 
men  Imnt  tind  fish,  the  women  mak(!  bead-uork  and  nioceasons,  and  the 
boys  earn  pennies  by  dexterous  jirchery.  There  are  GO  Huron  I'amilies 
here,  and  their  (piaint  little  ehureh  is  worthy  of  notice.  The  jjopulation 
of  the  piirish  is  3,500,  iind  the  district  is  devoted  to  farming.  The 
*  Lorette  Falls  are  near  the  mill,  and  are  very  pretty. 

The  best  description  of  Lorette  is  jriven  in  Ilowells's  A  Clianre  Arqiinlntance 
(riiap  XIIl  ),  from  wliidi  the  followiiifi  note  is  «'xtractcd  :  "  Tlic  road  to  Lorette  ia 
throiitrh  St.  iJolin's  (iatc,  down  into  the  (>utl\inf;  meadows  and  rye-fi«lds,  where, 
rrossiiifi;  and  rccrossiiig  the  swift  St.  Charles,  it  finally  ri.-es  at  Lorette  above  the  level 
of  the  citadel.  It  is  a  lonelier  road  than  that  to  Mnntnioreiici,  and  the  fcattering 
cottages  upon  it  have  not  tlie  well-to-do  jirettiness,  the  operatic  rejtair,  of  stone-built 
Hcauport.     But  they  are  eharmiiijr,  nevertheless,  and  the  jieojile  seem  to  be  nnioter 

from   modern   intiiiences 1{\    and   by  they  caiite  to  •Icuiie-Lorette,  an  almost 

ideally  pretty  hamlet,  bordering  the  road  on  cither  liand  with  galleriedand  balcoided 
little  houses,  from  wlii(  h  the  people  bowed  to  them  as  they  passed,  and  piously  en- 
closing in  its  midst  tln^  village  ehnrch  and  oluin  liyard.  They  soon  after  reached 
Lorette  it>^elf,  which  they  might  easily  have  known  for  an  Indian  town  by  its  nn- 
kemjit  air,  and  the  irregular  attitudes  in  which  the  shabby  cabins  lounged  along 

the  lanes  that  wandeietl  through  it The  cascade,  with  two  or  three  successive 

lcai)s  aliove  the  road,  plunges  headlorg  down  a  sti  ep.  crescent-shaped  slope,  and 
hides  its  fctamy  whiteness  in  the  dark-foliaged  ravihe  below.  It  is  a  wonder  Oi' 
graceful  motion,  of  iridescent  lights  and  delicious  shadows  ;  a  shape  of  loveliness  that 
seems  instinct  with  a  conscious  life." 

Charles  Marshall  says,  in  his  "Canadian  Dominion  '"  (London,  1871) :  "  For  pic- 
turesque beauty  the  environs  of  Qvel  ce  vie  with  those  of  any  city  in  the  world. 
....  It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  the  Lorette  cascades  would  give  fame  and  for- 
tune to  any  spot  in  England  or  France  ;  yet  here,  dwarfed  by  grander  waters,  they 
remain  comparatively  unknown."' 


Swlfaerlund, 

ttH*  h<'iivi«*«t 

roki'ii  HM  If  Ih 

tloKxy  >.k»'inn, 

•  tin-  n'K'iiliir 
ft«'r  «iut  into 
il."    (HaVaku 

all  this  vidii- 
iiitry  which  l« 
watiT  »'X("»'pt 
it  n-iiiliff*  tim 
>vr  itrrivinif  at 
th<'  vi'ip'  of  11 
Htocv  upiivar- 
2',!  I  ft  hflt.w. 
,  which,  wlicu 
,'lvubi>  bt'uuti- 


an  the  road  Ifl 
jjlit,",  on  wliich 
I  fallHfull  upon 
iind  on  all  the 
rkling  of  wou- 

j  Little  Kiver 
and  allk's  of 
ous  pL'itplo  in 
imixed.  The 
sf)iis,  and  the 
iiroii  liunilies 
lliy  ])()j)ulation 
inniug.      'I'lie 


\e  Arqunintante 
|ad  to  Lorettu  is 
i-ficUls,  where, 
aliovo  the  level 
|l  the  H'atterinj? 
•,  ot  stoiic-liuilt 
[\\  to  he  rt  iiH)ter 
h'tte,  an  ahiiost 
•daiuUialconied 
,tiud  piously  en- 
|)Ti  after  reached 
town  by  it."  un- 
.  louuRt'd  along 
three  sm•cc^sive 
laped  slnjie,  and 
I  is  a  woikIci'  o* 
[f  loveliness  that 

^71) :  "  For  pie- 
ty in  the  world. 
Ji'e  fame  and  for- 
Ider  waters,  tliey 


CHARLRSROirftO. 


Route  CO.      279 


When  the  Frenoh  cnmc  to  CaiiHda  the  Huronn  were  a  powerftil  imMnn  on  tho 
•hort's  of  l^akcH  Huron  ami  HhncfM-.  with  ifl  viila|{«*M  and  U(>-8(),(HK>  inhabitant. 
They  received  the  .h'<iidt  nd.-<.«li)iiari«  ■«  Kindly,  and  were  speedily  converted  to  Chrin- 
tlaidty.  Many  of  them  wore  their  liair  in  hristlin^  ridges,  whence  certain  anton- 
l«lied  Krenelinien,  on  tnst  M-einjjc  them,  exclaimed  '  <iiifUi:s  liiirr:^  '  "  ^"  What  boiirH' 
heaiisi  ")  and  the  name  of  Hitnm  «upi'  mted  their  proper  title  of  (iufUiliHur  Wi/iin- 
ilot.     Tim  !ro<|ui.iH,  or  Kive  Natiorin  (ut  New  York),  were  their  mortal  foes,  and  after 

many  years  of  most  barbarous  warfare,  snic ivn\  in  stormiuK  i\w  Christian   liiiroti 

t«iwns  of  .«*t.  .loM'ph,  St,  l^cnace,  and  .St.  Louis,  Tlie  nation  was  annihilated  :  a  few 
of  its  people  Med  to  the  far  West,  and  an-  nf)vv  known  as  the  W.\aiidots  ;  multitude^ 
were  made  slaves  amoii>(  the  Iroi|uoi«  villages  ;  i(),0(H)  were  kill«'d  in  battle  or  in  tho 
Hubju;:ated  towns;  and  the  mournful  n-nuiant  tied  toliuehee.  liiiuilreds  of  them 
wero  swept  away  from  the  Isle  of  Orleans  by  a  dirin^  Iroi(ii(iis  raid  :  the  survivors 
vncampeil  ujuler  the  ^m\n  of  the  fort  for  lO  years,  then  moved  to  .St  Foy  ;  and,  about 
the  year  lt)73,  this  feeble  fra^nu-nt  of  the  "j^reat  Huron  nation  settled  at  Ancienne 
liorette.  It  was  under  the  care  of  tlu>  Jesuit  Chaumonot,  who,  while  a  mere  bov , 
had  stolen  a  small  sum  of  uumey  and  tied  from  France  into  Lombardv.  In  tiltli  aiid 
poverty  he  be^Keil  his  way  toAneona,and  thence  to  Loretto,  where,  at  the  Holy 
House,  he  had  an  angelic  vision.  He  went  to  Home,  became  a  .lesiiit,  and  experi- 
enced another  miracle  from  Loretto ;  after  whiidi  he  passed  to  the  Huron  ndsslon 
in  »;anada,  when^  he  was  delivered  Irom  martyrdom  by  the  aid  of  St.  Michael.  Ho 
erected  at  Ancienne  Lorette  a  ch.ipel  in  (!.\act  fac-siinlle  of  the  Holy  House  at  Lo- 
retto;  and  here  he  claimed  that  many  miracles  were  performed".  In  ltil»7  tho 
Huron.i  moved  to  New  Lorette,  "a  wilil  spot,  covered  with  the  prindtive  forest, 
ami  seamed  by  a  deep  and  tortuous  ravine,  where  the  St  Charles  fnanis,  white  as  a 
snow-drift,  over  the  black  ledfies,  and  where  the  sunshine  struxK'''"^  throujfh  matted 
bough.s  of  the  pine  and  the  llr,  to  bask  for  brief  moments  on  the  nu)ssy  rocks  or 
fla.sh  on  the  hurrying  waters.  On  a  plateau  beside  the  torrent,  another  cha|Kd  was 
built  to  Our  Lady,  and  another  Huron  town  sprang  up;  and  here  to  this  day,  tho 
tourist  finds  the  remnant  of  a  lost  p«'ople,  harmless  weavers  of  baskets  and  sewers 
of  uioceasons,  the  Huron  blood  fast  bleaching  out  of  them,  jw,  with  everv  generation, 
they  unngle  and  fade  away  in  the  French  population  around."*     (1'.\rkman.) 

Visitors  to  Lorette  are  rt'coiiiiiiciKied  to  rt'ttini  to  Quelioc  by  aiiotlier 
road  from  that  on  whicli  they  went  ont.  Anelenne  Lorette  may  l)e  reached 
from  this  point,  and  so  may  tlie  hikes  of  Beauport  and  St.  Charles.  1^ 
days'  journey  to  the  N.  is  Lac  Kond,  famous  for  its  fine  hunting  and  fishinor. 

Charlesbourg  (IIuot'.H  boardin^-liotise)  is  4  M.  from  Quebec,  on  a  far- 
vie\vin«;  ridf,^e,  and  is  chistered  al)out  a  veneral)le  convent  and  old  ehuroli 
(with  copies  of  the  Last  Connuunlon  of  St.  .lerome  and  the  Sistine  Ma- 
donna over  its  altars).  It  is  the  citef-litu  of  tlie  seigniory  of  Xotre  Damo 
des  Anges,  and  its  products  are  lumljer  and  oats.  To  this  point  (then 
known  as  Bourg  Roijul)  retired  the  Inhaljitants  of  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  in 
1759,  wlien  ordered  by  Montcalm  to  fall  back  before  the  British.  They 
were  2,500  in  number,  and  were  led  l)y  their  cur^s.  IMeasant  roads  lead 
from  Charlesbourg  to  Lorette,  Lake  St.  Charles,  Lake  Beauport,  and  Cha- 
teau Bigot. 

Lake  St.  Charles  is  11  M.  from  Quebec,  and  6  M.  from  Lorette.  It  is 
4  M.  long,  and  its  waters  are  very  clear  and  deep.  The  red  trout  of  this 
lake  are  of  delicate  flavor.     There  is  a  remarkable  echo  from  the  shores. 

I  arriving  at  the  vicinity  of  the  lake,  the  spectator  is  delighted  by  the  beauty 

•tures(iue  wildness  of  its  banks Trues  grow  innnediately  on  the  borders 

of  the  water,  which  is  indenteil  by  several  points  advancing  into  it,  and  fonning  lit- 
tle bays.  The  lofty  hills  which  suddenly  rise  towards  the  N.,  in  shapes  singular 
and  diversified,  are  overlooked  by  mountains  which  exalt,  beyond  them,  their  more 
distant  summits. "'     (Heriot.) 


"On 

ami  pi( 


»f 


•t 


\  ti?! 


« 


•I 


i! 


;■    i'lmt 


280      /2owie  69. 


CHATEAU  BIGOT. 


■■■  ■•'ii'i     ' 


ii 


If  ;|S 

m 

\: 


il 


PI 


I  i^'; 


Uii, 


Chateau  Bigot  is  about  7  M.  from  Qiiebec,  by  way  of  Charlosbonrg, 
where  the  traveller  turns  to  the  r.  around  the  church,  and  rides  for  2  M. 
along  a  ridge  which  affords  charming  views  of  the  city  on  the  r.  *'  It  is  a 
lovely  road  out  to  Chateau  Bigot.  First  you  drive  through  the  ancient 
su])url)s  of  the  Lower  Town,  and  then  you  mount  the  smooth,  hard  high- 
way, l)etwcon  pretty  country-houses,  towards  the  village  of  Charlesbourg, 
while  Quebec  shows,  to  your  casual  backward  glance,  like  a  wondrous 
painted  scene,  with  the  spires  and  lofty  roofs  of  the  Upper  Town,  and  the 
long,  ir.'egnlar  wall  wandering  on  the  verge  of  the  cliff;  then  the  thronging 
gables  and  chimneys  of  St.  Roch,  and  again  many  spires  an(i  convent 
walls.'"  The  ruins  of  the  Chateau  are  only  reached  after  driving  for  some 
distance  through  a  narrow  wheel-track,  half  overgrown  with  foliage.  There 
remain  the  gables  and  division-wall,  in  thick  masonry,  with  a  deep  cellar, 
outside  of  which  are  heaps  of  d«^bris,  over  which  grow  alders  and  lilacs. 
The  ruins  are  in  a  cleared  space  over  a  little  brook  where  trout  are 
found;  and  over  it  is  the  low  and  forest-covered  ridge  of  La  Montar/ne  des 
Onnes. 

This)  land  was  in  the  Fief  fie  la  Trinity,  which  was  granted  about  the  year  1640  to 
M  Denis,  of  La  Kochelle  The  ch  ite;iu  was  built  fur  iiis  fciidiil  uiaiii-ion  by  tite 
Koyal  lutotKlant  Talon,  Baron  dos  ]i?lets,  and  was  afterwards  occujjied  by  tiie  last 
Royal  Intendant,  M.  Bij^ot,  a  dissolnte  and  licentious  Freneh  satrap,  wiio  stole 
$;2",000,U0U  from  the  treasury.  The  lej;end  tidls  that  Bi^'ot  used  this  bnildinp;  for  a 
huntinsi-lodtre  and  place  of  revels,  and  that  once,  while  pursuing  a  bear  among  the 
hills,  lie  got  lost,  and  was  guiiled  back  to  tin.'  chateau  by  a  lovely  Algonquin  maiden 
whom  he  had  met  in  the  finest.  8iie  remained  in  this  building  for  a  long  time,  in 
a  luxurious  l)oudoir,  and  \vas  visited  frequently  by  the  Intendant ;  but  one  night 
she  was  assassinated  by  some  unknown  person,  — either  M.  Bigofs  wife,  or  her  own 
mother,  avenging  the  dishonor  to  her  tribe  (see  "  (Jhiitean  Bigot,'"  by  ,J.  M.  LeMoine, 
sold  at  the  Quebec  bookstores  for  10c.  ;  also  Ilowelis's  A  Chance  Acquaintance, 
Chap.  XII.). 

Sillery  (or  St.  Cohmh)  is  3  M.  from  Quebec,  by  the  Grand  All^e  and 
the  Cap-Rouge  Road  (see  page  270).  After  passing  Wolfe's  ^lonument, 
the  road  leads  across  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  on  which  were  fought  the 
sanguinary  battles  of  1759  and  1760.  Sillery  is  a  parish  of  8,000  inhab- 
itants, on  whose  river  front  are  17  coves,  where  most  of  the  lumber  of 
Quebec  is  guarded.  The  Convent  of  Jesus- Maria  is  a  new  building  uf  great 
size  and  imposing  architecture;  opposite  Avhich  is  the  handsome  Gothic 
.school-house  which  was  given  to  this  parish  by  Bishop  Mountain.  In  the 
vicinity  of  Sillery  are  several  fine  villas,  amid  ornamental  grounds:  March- 
mant,  once  the  home  of  Sir  John  Harvey  and  Bishop  Stewart;  Spencer 
Wood,  "the  most  beautiful  domain  of  Canada,"  with  a  park  of  80  acres, 
formerly  the  home  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin  and  other  governors,  now  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  Province  of  Quebec  ($10,000 
is  voted  annually  for  its  maintenance  by  the  Legislature);  Woodfeld, 
founded  by  the   Bishop   of  Samos;   Spencer   Grange,   where  lives  J.  M. 

T  _  ^r    ■ iK  -       -   ...i J     : ; .  n }jj_  ;  j 

i^eiuuiiie,     Liie    uuLiiur    uiiu    aiiiiijuurmii ;        


iuUUiitain's 


£•  i^eiuuiiie,     Liie    uuLiiur    aiiu    aiKiijuuiiiiii ;       xmrujieuu,     jjisuop    iuuuniains 

k  former  home;    Cataracouy,   where  the   British   princes,  Albert  Edward 


M. 


.rlesbourg, 
s  for  2  M. 
"  It  is  a 
he  ancient 
liard  iiigh- 
irlcsbourg, 
wondrous 
n,  and  the 
!  thronging 
1(1  convent 
ig  for  some 
iige.  There 
leop  cellar, 
and  lilacs. 
!  trout  are 
ontarjne  des 


yenr  1040  to 
i.-iou  by  the 
i  by  tlie  last 
p,  who  stole 
iiildiiip;  for  a 
r  jiuiotig  the 
qiiin  niaitU-n 
loiij?  tinu",  in 
it  0110  night 
or  her  own 
M.  Lt'Moine, 
cquuintance, 


AU^e  and 
Monument, 
"ought  the 
000  inhab- 
lumber  of 
ng  of  great 
ue  Gothic 
in.  In  the 
:  March- 
t;  Sptncer 
f  80  acres, 
w  the  resi- 
c  (^10,000 
Woudjield, 
ives  J.  M. 


CAP  ROUGE. 


Route  G9,      281 


iuuuiitaiu's 
irt  Edward 


and  Alfred,  sojourned;  Benmore,  Col.  Rhodes's  estate;  and  several 
others.  The  beautiful  cemetery  of  Mount  Hernion,  which  was  laid  out 
by  Major  Douglas,  the  planner  of  Greenwood  Cemoterv,  is  in  this  vicin- 
ity, and  is  adorned  by  the  graceful  chapel  of  St.  ^Michael.  The  people 
of  Sillery  have  erected  a  moiuiment,  sustaining  a  mar- 

ble cross,  near  the  place  where  Father  IMasse  was  buried,  in  l()4n,  in  the 
ancient  Ghurch  of  St.  Michael  (which  has  long  since  disappeared).  The 
old  Jesuit  Residence,  still  remains,  and  is  a  massive  building  of  stone. 

The  Chevalier  Noel  Brulart  de  Sillery,  Knipht  of  Malta,  and  formerly  a  high  offi- 
cer at  the  court  of  Ciuct'ii  Marie  de  Mudieis,  having  rcnoiinceil  tlie  world,  devoted  his 
vast  rev(!nues  to  religious  purjioses.  Among  his  endowments  was  the  foundation  of 
a  Christian  Algon(iuin  village  just  above  Quebec,  whieh  the  Jesuits  named  Si'/en/^ 
in  his  honor  Here  the  .Vbeiiacinis  of  Maine  learned  ihe  elements  of  ('atholicism, 
wliicdi  was  afterwards  uiifoldeii  to  them  in  their  villages  on  the  Kenneb('e,by  Father 
Dvuilletes.  Tins  worthy  old  clergyman  followed  them  in  their  grand  hunts  about 
MooseluNid  Lake  and  t\w  northern  forests,  "  with  toil  too  gr<  at  to  buy  the  kingdoms 
of  this  world,  but  very  small  as  a  price  for  the  Kingdom  of  Heaven."  From  the 
mission-house  at  Sillery  dejtarted  .logues.  IJrebeuf,  Laleinant,  and  many  other  heroio 
missionaries  and  martyrs  of  the  i)rimitive  Canadian  Church.  ''It  was  the  scene  of 
miracles  and  martyrdoms,  and  marvels  of  many  kinds,  and  the  eentre  of  the  mis- 
sionary efforts  among  the  Iiidi'ins.  Indeed,  few  events  of  the  picturesque  early  his- 
tory of  Quebec  left  '<■  untoueheil ;  and  it  is  worthy  to  be  seen,  no  less  for  the  wild 
beauty  of  the  spot  ti  in  for  its  heroioal  memories.  About  a  league  from  the  city, 
where  the  irregular  wall  of  rock  on  which  (^uebee  is  built  recedes  from  the  river, 
and  a  grassy  space  stretches  between  the  tidi;  and  the  foot  of  the  woody  steep,  the 
old  mission  and  tiie  Indian  village  once  stooil ;  and  to  this  day  there  yet  stands  the 
stalwart  frame  of  the  tirst  .lesiiit  Residence,  modernized,  of  eour.«e,  and  turned  to 
secular  uses,  but  firm  as  of  old,  and  good  for  a  century  to  fonie.  All  around  is  a 
world  of  lumber,  and  rafts  of  vast  extent  cover  the  face  of  the  waters  in  the  ample 
cove,  —  one  of  many  that  indent  the  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  careless  village 
straggles  along  the  roadside  and  the  river's  margin  :  huge  lumber-ships  are  loading 
for  Europe  in  the  stream  ;  a  town  shines  out  of  the  woods  on  the  opjiosite  shore  ; 
nothing  but  a  friendly  climate  is  needed  to  make  this  one  of  the  most  charming 
scenes  the  heart  could  imagine." 

Cap  Rouge  is  9  M.  from  Quebec,  and  may  be  reached  by  the  road  which 
passes  through  Sillery.  It  is  a  village  of  800  inhabitants,  with  a  timber- 
trade  and  a  large  pottery ;  and  is  connected  with  Quebec  by  semi-daily 
stages.  The  cape  forms  the  W.  end  of  the  great  plateau  of  (Quebec,  which, 
according  to  the  geologists,  was  formerly  an  island,  around  which  the  St. 
Lawrence  tlowed  down  the  St.  Charles  valley.  Beyond  Cap  Rouge  are  sev- 
eral very  interesting  villages:  St.  Augustin,  with  its  venerable  church; 
Deschambault  ;  and  other  old  French  parishes.  The  mansion  of  Redc'iiffe 
IS  on  the  cape,  and  is  near  the  site  where  Jaques  Cartier  and  Roberval 
passed  the  winters  of  1541  and  1542.  On  the  same  point  batteries  were 
erected  by  Montcalm  and  ^lurray. 

la  returning  from  Cap  Kouge  to  the  city,  it  may  be  well  to  tixrn  to  the 
1.  at  St.  All)ans  and  gain  the  St.  Foy  road.  The  village  of  St.  Foy  is  5 
^I.  from  Quebec,  and  contains  many  pleasant  villas  and  mansions.  To  the 
N.  IS  the  broad  and  smiling  valley  of  the  St.  Charles,  in  which  may  be 
seen  Ancienne  Lorette  (two  inns),  a  lumbering  village  of  3,000  inhabitants, 
on  the  Gosford  Railway,  4^  M.  from  St.  Foy.     Beyond  the  Church  of  St. 


! 


■  -iii 


mmm 


..J 
i. 


282      IloiUe  GO, 


POINT  LEVI. 


T    v. 


■I 
ft 

■I 

I 
I 

I 


I 
I 

■  *■ 

'A 


•"i' 


si 
t  if 


if 

ill 

1*: 
)4 

i| 


i  il 


Foy  is  the  *monumontal  column,  surmonntefl  by  a  statue  of  Rellona  (pre- 
sented by  I'riiK't!  Napoleon),  which  marks  tiie  site  of  the  fiercest  ])art  of 
the  Second  Battle  of  tiie  I'lains,  in  wliich  l)e  Levis  defeated  Murray  (17G0). 
The  nionuuKuit  was  dedicated  with  great  pomp  in  1854,  and  stands  over 
the  grave  of  many  huiKlreds  who  fell  in  tiie  fight.  Passing  now  the 
handsome  Finlay  Asylum  and  several  villas,  the  suburb  of  St.  John  is 
entered. 

Point  Levi  (or  Levis)  is  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  opposite 
Quebec,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  i'erry-boats  running  every  15  min- 
utes. It  has  about  10,000  inhabitants,  with  a  large  and  increasing  trade, 
being  the  terminus  of  the  Quebec  branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and 
of  the  Intercolonial  and  Quebec  Central  Railways.  On  the  lofty 
plateau  beyond  the  town  are  the  great  forts  which  have  been  erected  to 
delend  Quebec  fnnn  a  second  bombardment  from  this  shore.  They  are 
three  in  number,  1  M.  apart,  solidly  built  of  masonry  and  earth,  with  large 
casemates  and  covered  ways;  and  are  to  be  armed  with  Moncrieff  gnus  of 
the  heaviest  calibre.  It  is  said  that  these  forts  cost  S  15,000,000,  —  a 
p-il^able  exaggeration,  —  but  they  have  been  a  very  expensive  piece  of 
work,  and  are  said  to  lie  more  nearly  like  Cherbourg,  the  best  of  modern 
European  fortifications,  than  any  others  in  America.  The  batteries  with 
•which  Gen.  Wolfe  destroyed  Quebec,  in  1759,  were  located  on  this  line  of 
heights. 

St.  Joseph  is  2^  i\I.  from  Point  Levi,  and  transacts  a  large  business  in 
wood  and  timber.  S(yiith  Quebec  is  above  Point  Levi,  and  is  closely  con- 
nected with.  it.  The  Liver] »ool  steamers  stop  here,  and  there  are  great 
shipments  of  lumber  from  the  harbor.  The  town  has  3,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  growing  rapidly. 

St.  Romunld  (or  New  Liverpool)  is  5  M.  froiu  Quebec,  and  adjoins  S. 
Quebec.  It  has  several  factories  and  mills  and  a  large  lunilier-tra<le,  and 
is  connected  with  Quebec  by  L^emi-daily  steamers.  The  *  Churcll  of  St. 
Bomuald  is  "the  finest  on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,"  and  is  celebrated 
for  its  paintings  (executed  in  1868-9  by  Lamprech  of  Munich). 

In  the  choir  are  the  Nativity,  Crucifixion,  and  Ilosurrection  of  Chri.«it;  in  the 
Chapel  of  St.  .lo.-<('i)h,  tlie  Miirriago  of  St.  .ioi-cjili,  the  Flight  into  Kgypt,  Nazareth, 
Josiis  and  the  Doctors,  tiie  Dcatli  of  !*t.  .Ic^cph  ;  in  the  Cliaiicl  of  tlie  A'irgin,  the 
Annunciation,  the  Visitation,  tlie  Adoration  of  tlie  Mn;xi,  and  the  Presentation  in 
the  Temple.  Above  are  eigiit  .'•ccnes  from  the  life  of  8t.  Jtoniuald,  from  hi.s  Conver- 
pion  to  his  Apotheosis  Tlierc  .ire  10  medallions  on  a  gf)ld  ground,  representing  Sts. 
Peter  atid  Paul,  tiie  Ff  ur  F>angelists,  and  five  doctors  of  the  Greek  Church  and 
five  of  the  Latin  Chuirh.  The  altars  were  designed  by  Schneider  of  Munich,  and 
the  statues  were  carved  in  wood  l)y  Rudmilkr  of  Munich. 

The  *  Chaudifere  Falls  are  4.^  ^I.  beyond  St.  Romuald,  and  over  9  M. 
from  Quebec.  They  can  only  be  reached  by  walking  a  considerable  dis- 
tance through  the  bordering  fields.  "  The  deep  green  foliage  of  the  woods 
overhanging,  the  roar  of  the  catanict,  and  tlie  solitude  of  the  place,  espe- 
cially as  you  emerge  suddenly  from  the  forest  fastnesses  on  the  scene,  pro- 


Ion  a  (pre- 
:st  part  of 
ay  (1760). 
ands  over 
:  now  the 
[.  John  is 

;,  opposite 
y  15  nihi- 
iiirr  trade, 
ihvay  and 

the  lofty 
erected  to 

They  arc 
with  large 
?ir  p;niis  of 
iO,000,  —  a 
e  piece  of 
of  modern 
teries  with 
this  line  of 

lusines?  in 
loi^ely  con- 
are  great 
labitants, 

adjoins  S. 
trade,  and 
rch  of  St. 

celebrated 


rist ;  in  the 
t,  Nazareth, 
Virgin,  the 
ciitation  in 
his  Conver- 
■ii'iiting  Sts. 
riiurch  and 
ilunich,  and 

over  9  M. 
erable  dis- 

the  woods 
lace,  e?pc- 
scene,  pro- 


T 


ANCE  GARDIEN. 


Route  70.    283 


duce  a  strong  and  vivid  impression,  not  soon  to  be  forgotten."  Some 
visitors  even  prefer  this  fall  to  that  of  Montmorenci.  Tlie  Chaudiere  de- 
scends from  Lake  Megantic,  near  the  frontier  of  Maine,  traversing  the 
Canadian  gold-fields.  ArnoM's  hungry  and  heroic  army  followed  the 
course  of  tliis  river  from  its  source  to  its  mouth  in  their  arduous  winter- 
march,  in  1775.  The  Cliaudiere  Kails  are  3  M.  from  its  conlluence  with 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  at  a  point  where  the  stream  is  comj)ressed  into  a 
breadth  of  400  ft.  The  depth  of  the  ])lunge  is  about  135  ft.,  and  the 
waters  below  are  continually  in  a  state  of  turbulent  tossing.  At  the  verge 
of  the  fall  the  stream  is  divided  by  large  rocks,  forming  three  channels,  of 
Avhich  that  on  the  W.  is  the  largest.  The  view  from  the  E.  shore  is  the 
best.  "The  wild  diver  ity  of  rocks,  the  foliage  of  the  overhanging  woods, 
the  rapid  motion,  the  etl'nlgent  In'ightness  and  deeply  solemn  sound  of  the 
cataracts,  all  coml)ine  to  present  a  rich  assemblage  of  objects  highly 
attractive,  especially  when  the  visitor,  emerging  from  the  wood,  is  in- 
stantaneously surjjrised  by  the  delightful  scene." 

70.  Quebec  to  La  Bonne  Ste.  Anne.— The  Cote  de  Beaupre 

The  steamer  Montmorenci  runs  from  Quebec  to  .^'t.  Anne  twice  a  week  A  bet- 
ter route  is  that  Ijy  laud,  through  the  mediajval  hamlets  of  the  Cote  de  Beaupr^. 
Three  I  lays  should  be  devoted  to  the  trip,  —  one  to  go  undone  to  return,  and  the 
other  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anne  and  i^t.  Fereol.  Gentlemen  who  undtsrstaud  French 
will  find  tills  distiict  very  interesting  for  tne  scene  of  a  pedestrian  tour.  The  inns 
at  St.  Anne  and  along  the  ro.id  are  of  a  very  humble  diaracter,  resembUng  the  way- 
side aiiheri^'  s  of  lirirtany  or  Normandy  :  hut  the  peojjle  are  courteous  and  wefl- 
di- posed.  The  Quebec,  Montmorenci  &  Charlevoix  Railway  runs  from  Quebec  to 
St.  Ai  ne. 

Distances.  —  Quebec  to  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  7  M.  ;  Ange  Gardien,  10; 
Chateau  Uicher,  15  ;  St.  Anne,  22  (St.  .Joachim,  27  ;  St.  Fereol,  30). 

The  Seigniory  of  the  Cote  de  IJeaupre  contains  several  parishes  of  the  N.  shore, 
and  is  the  most  mountainous  part  of  the  Province.  It  was  granted  in  1030,  and  is 
at  present  an  ajipanage  of  the  Seminary  of  Quebec.  No  rural  district  N.  of  Mexico 
is  more  quaint  and  media-val  than  the  Beaupre  Road,  with  its  narrow  and  ancient 
farms,  its  low  and  massive  stone  houses,  roadside  crosses  and  chaj)els,  and  unpro- 
gressive  French  j)opulation.  But  few  districts  arc  more  beautiful  than  this,  with 
the  hroad  St.  Lawrence  on  the  S.,and  the  garden-like  Isle  of  Orleans;  the  towers 
of  Quebec  on  the  \V.,  and  the  sonibre  ridges  of  Cape  Tourmcnte  and  the  mountains 
of  St.  Anne  and  St.  Fertk)l  in  advance.  "  In  the  inhabitant  of  the  Cote  de  Beaupre 
you  find  the  Norman  pea.sant  of  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.,  with  his  annais,  his  songs, 
and  his  superstitions."   (Abb^:  Ferl-XNI)  ) 

"Though  all  the  while  we  had  grand  views  of  the  adjacent  country  far  up  and 
down  the  river,  and,  for  the  most  part,  when  we  turned  about,  of  Quebec,  in  the 
horizon  behind  us,  —  and  we  never  beheld  it  without  new  surprise  and  admiration, 
—  yet,  throughout  our  walk,  the  Great  River  of  Canada  on  our  right  hand  was  the 
main  featui-e  in  the  landscape,  and  this  expands  so  rapidly  below  the  Isle  of  Orleans, 
ami  creates  such  a  breadth  of  level  surface  above  its  waters  in  that  direction,  that, 
looking  down  the  river  as  we  approached  the  extremity  of  that  island,  the  St.  Ijaw- 
rence  seemed  to  be  opening  into  the  ocean,  though  we  were  still  abuui  325  M.  from 
what  cau  be  called  its  mouth."'   (TaoREAU.) 

Quebec  to  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  see  page  276. 

Beyond  the  Falls  the  road  passes  on  over  far-viewing  and  breezy  hills, 
and  between  the  snug  estates  of  the  riiral  farmers  with  their  great  barns 
and  exposed  cellars  {caves).     The  village  of  Ange  Gardien  is  guarded  at 


til 


m\ 


284      Rontr  70. 


CHATEAU  RICHER. 


J  ■■.■ 

.1      V 


il  il 


■  each  end  by  roiulside  orntorios,  and  lies  in  a  sheltered  glen  near  the  river. 
It  is  chistered  abont  a  v(Mieral)le  old  church,  in  which  are  paintings  of  the 
Annunciation  and  the  Adoration  of  tlic  Magi.  On  its  front  is  a  large  sun- 
dial. This  dreamy  old  parish  has  1,000  inhaldtants,  and  dates  from  1078, 
when  it  was  founded  by  Bishop  Laval.  In  17r)y  it  was  overrim  and  occu- 
pied by  the  famous  Hritish  corps  of  the  Louisbourg  (irenadiers. 

After  ascending  out  of  the  glen  of  Ange  Giu'dien,  the  road  crosses  ele- 
vated bluiTs,  and  on  the  r.  arc  rich  and  extensive  intervales,  cut  into  nar- 
row strips  by  walls.  They  extend  to  the  margin  of  the  river,  beyond 
which  are  the  wdiite  villages  and  tin-clad  spires  of  the  Isle  of  Orleans. 

Chateau  Eicher  is  a  compact  and  busy  village  of  2,000  inhabitants, 
over  which,  on  a  bold  knoll,  is  the  spacious  parish-church.  The  views 
from  the  platform  of  this  edifice  are  very  pretty,  including  a  large  area  of 
the  parish,  the  village  of  St.  Pierre  on  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  and  the  distant 
promontory  of  Cape  Diamrn<l.  During  the  'aunting  season  the  Chateau- 
Richer  marshes  are  much  frequented  by  Quebec  sportsmen,  who  shoot 
great  numbers  of  snipe,  ducks,  and  partridges.  The  upland  streams  alford 
good  trout-lishing. 

On  a  rocky  promontory  noar  Clharcau  Richer  waR  the  site  of  the  ancient  Francis- 
can monastery.  This  massive  stone  building  was  erected  about  tlie  year  1695,  and 
was  occupied  by  a  conununity  of  peaceful  monks.  When  the  British  army  was 
fighting  the  French  near  the  Falls  of  .Vloutmorenci,  a  detachment  was  sent  here  to 
get  provisions  ;  but  the  Fi-ench  villagers,  under  the  intliience  of  their  spiritual 
guides,  reiused  to  give  aid,  and  fortified  themselves  in  the  monastery.  The  reduc- 
tion of  this  impromptu  fortress  gave  (ien.  Wolfe  considerable  trouble,  and  it  was 
only  accomplished  by  sending  against  it  the  valiant  Louisbourg  Grenadiers  and  a 
section  of  artillery.  The  nmnks  surrendered  after  their  walls  were  well  battered  by 
cannon  shot,  and  were  dispossessed  by  the  troops.  ]?efore  the  bombardment  the 
parisli  priest  met  the  English  officers,  and  told  tiiem  that  they  fought  for  their  king, 
and  he  should  be  as  fearless  in  defending  his  people.  The  villagers  made  a  fierce 
sortie  from  the  convent  during  the  siege,  but  were  rej)nlsed  with  the  loss  of  30  killed. 
Q'he  site  of  the  monastery  is  now  o''cupicd  by  the  school  of  the  Sisters  of  Le  Bon 
Pasteur,  and  part  of  its  walls  still  remain. 

The  little  roadside  nuberge  called  the  Hotel  Champetro  is  about  1  M.  be- 
yond Chateau  Richer.  The  *Saidt  a  la  Puce  is  about  2  M.  bevond  the 
village,  and  is  visited  by  leaving  the  road  where  it  crosses  the  Riviere  a  la 
Puce,  and  ascending  to  the  1.  by  the  path.  The  stream  leaps  over  a  long 
cliif,  falling  into  the  shadows  of  a  bowery  glen,  and  has  been  likened  to 
the  Cauterskill  Falls. 


"This  fall  of  La  Puce,  the  least  remarkable  of  the  four  which  we  visited  in  this 
Ticinity,  we  had  never  heard  of  until  we  came  to  Canada,  a'.id  yet,  so  far  as  I  know, 
there  is  nothing  of  the  kind  in  New  England  to  be  compared  with  it.  Most  travel- 
lers in  Canada  would  not  hear  of  it,  though  they  inight  go  so  near  as  to  hear  it." 
(TiioKKAU.)  Thei-e  are  other  pretty  cascades  farther  up  the  stream,  but  they  are 
difficult  of  access. 

"  The  lower  fall  is  112  ft  in  height,  and  its  banks,  formed  by  elevated  acclivities, 
wooded  to  tiieir  summits,  spread  around  a  solemn  gloom,  whicli  the  whiteness,  the 
luovements,  and  the  noise  of  the  deseeriuing  waters  eouiblne  to  make  iiitefestlug 

and  attractive The  environs  of  this  river  display,  in  miniature,  a  succession  of 

romantic  views.    The  river,  from  about  oue  fourth  of  the  height  of  the  mouatain, 


LA   BONNE  ST.  ANNE. 


Route  70.      285 


l^ll 


the  river. 

iiffs  of  the 

hirjre  pun- 

iVoin  1678, 

and  occu- 

vossos  cle- 
t  into  nnr- 
er,  l)oyond 
rleans. 
iihiibitants, 
Tiio  views 
rce  area  of 
the  distant 
e  Cliateau- 
wlio  plioot 
earns  alford 


lent  Francis- 
ear  16'J5,  and 
sh  army  was 
s  i*ent  here  to 
leir  spiritual 
Tho  rodue- 
e,  and  it  waa 
ladiers  and  a 
battered  by 
ardment  the 
or  their  king, 
made  a  fierce 
of301<illed. 
rs  of  Le  Bon 


)ut  1  M.  be- 
)eyond  the 
Riviere  a  la 
over  a  long 
likened  to 


ifsited  in  this 
"ar  as  1  l^now, 
Mo.«t  travel- 
to  hear  it." 
but  they  are 

h1  acclivities, 
hitenessa,  the 
.e  interesting 
succession  of 
le  mountain, 


discloao?  itwlf  to  thw  contemplation  of  the  spectator,  and  delights  his  eye  with  Taried 
masses  of  sliining  foam,  which,  ^wddeiil.v  issuing  from  u  deep  ravine  liollowed  out  by 
the  waters,  glide  down  tlie  almo^t  perpendicular  rock,  and  form  a  splendid  curtain, 
which  los«'S  itself  andd  the  foliage  of  surrounding  woods.  Such  is  the  sceue  which 
the  fall  of  La  Puce  exhibits."    (Hkkiot.) 

La  Bonne  St.  Anne  (otherwise  known  as  St.  Anne  du  Nord  and  St. 
Anne  de  Heaui)r(^)  is  7  M.  bcyoiul  Ch&,feau  Richer,  and  is  built  on  a  level 
site  juut  al)ove  tlie  intervales.  It  has  about  1,200  inliabitants,  and  is  sup- 
ported by  the  thousands  of  pilgrims  who  frecjuent  its  shrine,  and  l)y  sup- 
))lying  brick  lo  the  Quebec  market.  Innnense  numbers  of  wild  fowl 
(especially  pigeons)  are  killed  here  every  year.  Tl)ereare  numerous  small 
inns  in  the  narrow  street,  all  of  which  are  crowded  during  the  season  of 
pilgrimage.  On  the  E,  of  tlie  village  is  the  new  Church  of  St.  Anne,  a 
massive  and  beautiful  structure  of  gray  stone,  in  classic  architecture; 
60,000  pilgrims  visited  the  shrine  in  1882.  The  old  building  of  the 
*  Church  of  St,  Anne  is  on  the  bank  just  above,  and  is  probably  the  most 
higldy  venerated  slirine  in  Anglo-Saxon  America.  The  relics  of  St.  Anne 
Bre  guarded  in  a  crystal  globe,  and  are  exhibited  at  morning  mass,  when 
their  contemplation  is  said  to  have  effected  many  miraculous  cures.  Over 
the  richly  adorned  high  altar  is  a  *  picture  of  St  Anne,  by  the  famous 
French  artist,  Lt  Brun  (presented  by  Viceroy  Tracy);  and  the  side  altars 
have  paintings  (given  l)y  Bishop  Laval)  l)y  the  Franciscan  monk  Lefran- 
^ois  (who  died  in  168o).  Thefe  are  numerous  rude  ex-voto  paintings,  rep- 
resenting marvellous  deliverances  of  sliips  in  peril,  through  the  aid  of  St. 
Anne;  and  along  the  cornices  and  in  the  sacristy  are  great  sheaves  of 
crutches,  left  here  by  cripples  and  invalids  who  claimed  to  have  been 
healed  by  the  intercession  of  the  saint.  Witliin  the  church  is  the  tomb 
of  Plulippe  U^n^  de  Portneuf,  priest  of  St.  .Joachim,  who  was  slain,  with 
several  of  his  people,  while  defendhig  his  parish  against  the  British  troops 
(1759). 

"  Above  all,  do  not  fail  to  make  your  pilgrimage  to  the  shrine  of  St.  Anne 

Here,  wlien  Aillebout  was  governor,  he  began  with  his  own  hands  tlie  pious  work,  and 
B  habitant  of  IJeaupr6,  Louis  Ouimont,  sorely  afflicted  with  rheumatism,  came  grin- 
ning with  pain  to  lay  three  stones  in  the  foundation,  in  honor  probably  of  St.  Anne, 
St.  Joachim,  and  their  daughter,  the  Virgin.  Instantly  he  was  cured.  It  was  but 
the  beginning  of  a  long  course  of  miracles  continued  more  than  two  centuries,  and 
continuing  still.  Their  fame  spread  far  and  wide.  The  devotion  to  St.  Anne  be- 
came a  distinguishing  feitui-e  of  Canadian  Catholicity,  till  at  the  present  day  at 
least  thirteen  parishes  bear  her  name Sometimes  the  whole  shore  wa«  cov- 
ered with  the  wigwams  of  Indian  converts  who  hud  paddled  their  birch  canoes  from 
the  farthest  wilds  of  Canada.  The  more  fervent  among  them  would  crawl  on  their 
knees  ft*om  the  shore  to  the  altar.  And,  in  our  own  day, every  summer  a  far  greater 
concourse  of  pilgrims,  not  in  pciut  and  leathers,  but  in  cloth  and  millinery,  and  not 
in  canoes,  but  in  steamboats,  bring  tlieir  oiferings  and  their  vows  to  the  '  Bonne  St. 
Anne.""    (Parkman.) 

According  to  the  traditions  of  the  Roman  Church,  St.  Anne  was  the  mother  of 
the  Blessed  Virgin,  and  after  her  body  liad  reposed  for  some  years  in  the  cathedral 
at  Jerusalem,  it  was  sent  by  s;t.  James  to  St.  Laziii'e,  first  bishop  of  Marseilles.  lie, 
in  turn,  sent  it  to  St.  Auspice,  bisliop  of  Apt,  who  placed  it  in  a  subterranean 
chapel  to  guard  it  from  profanation  in  the  approaching  heathf  n  inroads.  Barbarian 
hordes  afterwards  swept  over  Apt  and  obliterated  the  chu.-ch.    700  years  later, 


28G      nouie  70.     THE  FALLS  OF  ST.   ANNE. 


,.r. 


I 'I 


;■*. 


Charlemngne  visited  the.  town,  and  wliile  attending  pervire  in  the  rathedrnl,  rerefftl 
marvellous  iucidcntH  took  place,  and  tlic  forgotttu  veuiuins  of  St  Anne  \veie  reeov* 
ertd  troiii  tlie  grotto,  wlieu**'  a  jierpetual  HglU  was  seen  and  a  delicious  I'lagrance 
emanated.  Ever  since  that  day  tlie  relics  of  the  saint  l\ave  );)een  iughly  venerated 
in  France.  The  colonists  wlio  founded  Canada  liroufiht  with  them  this  sjiccial  de- 
votion, and  erected  numerous  churches  in  her  lienor,  the  cliief  of  wiiich  was  St, 
Anne  de  Heaupre,  which  wiw  founded  in  h'I)H  hy  Oov.  d'AiUeliout  on  the  estate  pre- 
sented l)y  Etienne  lj4'ssart.  In  1608  the  cathedral-chapter  of  Carcasson  sent  to  this 
new  sliriue  a  relic  of  St.  Anne  (a  bone  of  the  hand),  togetluT  vvitli  a  lamp  and  a 
reliquary  of  silver,  and  some  fine  paintings.  The  legend  liolds  tlmt  a  little  child 
was  thrice  favored  witli  heavenly  visions,  on  the  site  of  the  church  ;  and  that,  on 
her  third  appearance,  the  Virgin  commanded  the  little  one  to  tell  the  people  that 
they  siiould  huild  a  church  on  that  spot.  The  completion  of  thti  buildmp  was  .'■ig- 
nalized  by  a  remarltable  miracle.  Tlie  vessels  ascending  the  Bt.  Lawrence  during 
the  French  domination,  always  fired  off  a  saluting  V>roadside  when  passing  this 
point,  in  recognition  of  their  delivery  from  the  perils  of  tlie  sea.  Bishop  Lsival 
made  St  Anne's  Day  a  feast  of  obligation  ;  and  rich  ex-volo  gifts  were  placed  in  the 
church  by  the  IntendantTalon,  the  Marquis  deTracy  ,and  M.  d'lberville,  "  the  Cid  of 
New  France."'  For  over  two  centuries  the  pilgrimages  have  been  almost  incessant, 
and  hundreds  of  miraculous  cures  have  been  attributed  to  La  Bovne  St  Anne.  Be» 
tween  June  and  October,  1874,  over  20,00(1  pilgrims  visited  the  chinch,  someof  wliom 
came  from  France  and  some  from  the  United  States.  An  extrac  t  from  a  Lower- 
Canada  newsimper  of  October,  1874,  de.scribe8  one  of  tlie  latest  of  these  curious 
phenomena,  tiie  curing  of  a  woman  wlao  had  been  bedridden  for  4  years;  "She 
wds  placed  in  the  Churcli  of  St.  Anne,  on  a  portable  bed,  at  G  o'clock  on  Wednesday 
morning.  After  low  mass  she  was  made  to  venerate  the  relics  of  St  Anne.  A 
grand  mass  was  (Chanted  a  few  minutes  afterwards.  Toward  the  middle  of  the  divine 
office  the  patient  moved  a  little.  After  the  elevation  she  sat  up.  At  the  termina- 
tion of  the  mass  she  got  up  and  walked  and  made  the  circuit  of  the  church." 

The  Cote  de  Beaupro  and  the  site  of  St.  Atine  v;£Tq  granted  by  the  Compagnie  dea 
Cents  Associes,  in  1636,  to  the  3ieur  ChefTault  ae  la  Regnardiere,  who,  however, 
made  but  little  progress  in  settling  this  broiul  domain,  and  finally  sold  it  to  Bishop 
Laval.  In  1661,  after  the  fall  of  Montreal,  this  district  was  ravaged  by  the  mcrcilod 
Iroquois,  and  in  1682  St.  Anne  was  garrisoned  by  three  companies  of  French  regu- 
Jars.  On  the  23d  of  August,  1759,  St.  Anne  was  attacked  by  300  Highlanders  and 
Light  Infantry  and  a  company  of  Hangers,  under  command  of  Capt  Montgomery, 
The  pla-e  was  defended  by  200  villagers  and  Indians,  who  kept  up  so  hot  a  fire  from 
the  shelter  of  the  houses  that  the  assailahts  were  forced  to  halt  and  wait  until  a 
flanking  movement  had  been  made  by  the  Rangers.  Many  of  the  Canadians  were 
flain  during  their  retreat,  and  all  who  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  British  were  put  to 
death.  The  victors  then  burnt  the  village,  saving  only  the  ancient  church,  in 
which  they  made  their  quarters.  A  tradition  of  the  country  says  that  they  set  firo 
to  the  church  three  times,  but  it  was  delivered  by  St,  Anne.  The  following  day 
they  advanced  on  Chate;iu  Richer  and  Ange  Gardien,  burning  every  house  and  barn, 
and  cutting  down  the  fruit  trees  and  young  grain.  They  were  incessantly  annoyed 
by  the  rifles  of  the  countrymen,  and  gave  no  quarter  to  their  prisoners. 

The  *  Falls  of  St.  Anne  are  visited  by  passing  out  from  St.  Anne  on 
the  road  to  St.  Joachim,  as  far  as  the  inn.  "  like  an  auberge  of  Brittany," 
at  tlie  crossing  of  the  St.  Anne  River.  Thence  the  way  leads  up  the  river- 
bank  through  dark  glens  for  3-4  M.,  and  the  visitor  is  conducted  by  a 
guide.  In  descending  from  the  plateau  to  the  plain  below,  the  river  forms 
seven  cascades  in  a  distance  of  about  a  league,  some  of  which  are  of  rare 
beauty,  and  have  been  preferred  even  to  the  Trenton  Falls,  in  New  York. 
The  lower  fall  is  130  ft.  high. 

•'•  A  magnificent  spectacle  burst  upon  our  sight.  A  rapid  stream,  breaking  Its  way 
through  the  dark  woods,  and  from  pool  to  pool  among  masses  of  jagged  rock,  sud- 
denly cleaves  for  itself  a  narrow.»chasm ,  over  which  you  may  spring  if  you  have  an 
iron  nerve,  aud  then  iialls,  broken  iuto  a  thoueaud  feiutustic  forms  of  spray  along  tho 


ST.   JOACHIM. 


Jioute  70.      287 


|i 


;rn1,  rpVPtftl 

s  1'iiigniiue 
y  ■vi'JU'nited 
'  s*jit'fia\  d(- 
\v\\  \Vil^  St. 
•  fstutu  pvo- 
seiit  to  tliis 
lamp  iind  a 

I  little  cliil<i 

II  il  that,  on 
pedple  tliiit 

iHip  was  Mg- 
n'ure  ilurin? 
passing  this* 
l{i>hop  Liival 
plaii'il  in  the 
,  "the  C  id  of 
ist  inrespant, 
U  Anne.-     Y>G' 
some  of  whom 
rotn  a  Lowcr- 
these  curious 


years 


■She 


m  Wednesday 
ijt  Anne.  A 
e  of  the  divine 
t  the  terniina- 
tiurch." 

:ompngnie  de9 
,vho,  however, 
a  it  to  Bishop 
f  the  mertilcMi 
r  French  regu- 
<;;h\ander8  and 
"Montgomery, 
hot  a  fire  from 
Id  wait  until  a 
anadians  were 
sh  were  put  to 
nt  church,  iii 
lut  thev  set  firo 
following  day 
ouse  and  barn , 
autly  aunoyed 
•e. 

St.  Anne  on 
If  Brittany," 
up  thevivev- 
ducted  by  a 
le  river  forms 
\\  are  of  rave 
li  New  York. 


Uakitigitsway 
^ged  rock,  sud- 
|t  you  have  an. 
Ipray  along  tbo 


Bteep  face  of  the  rock,  into  a  deep  gnr^c  of  horrid  darkness.  T  do  not  know  the  vol* 
uuic  of  water  ;  I  fctrj^ot  to  gues.s  the  lieiglit,  it  may  be  two  hnndivd  tVet.  Figures 
are  absurd  in  the  estimate  of  tlie  lu.autv  anil  grandeur  of  a  scene  lilio  tlii.s.  I  only 
know  that  the  whole  impression  of  the  scene  w.is  out;  of  the  most  intense  I  iiave  ever 
experienced.  The  disposition  of  the  mas«  of  broken  waters  is  the  most  gmcoful  con- 
ceivable. The  irresistible  might  of  the  rush  of  tlie  fall,  tlu;  stupendous  upright 
nia.s.sc!<  of  black  rock  tliat  fonn  the  chasm  :  the  heavy  fringe  of  dark  woods  all 
around;  the  utter  solitarinesH  and  gloom  of  the  scene, — all  aid  to  impress  tlio 
imagination.     An  artist  might  i)refer  this  spot  to  Niagara."     (.M.uishai,!..) 

"  Ilere  the  river,  l~2t)0  ft  wide,  comes  flowing  rapidly  over  a  rocky  bed  out  of 
that  interesting  wilderness  which  stretches  toward  IludsouV  Hay  and  Davis's  Strait.s. 
Ha  Ha  Bay,  on  the  Saguenay,  v.ius  about  KM)  M.  \,  of  where  we  stood.  Looking  on 
the  map,  I  find  that  the  first  country  on  tiie  N.  whicli  bears  a  name  is  tiiat  part  of 
Rujiert's  Land  called  East  Main.  This  river,  called  after  the  Holy  Anne,  flowing 
from  such  a  direction,  here  tumbles  over  a  preci, :.  o,  at  present  by  three  channels, 
how  far  down  1  do  not  know,  but  far  enough  for  ua  our  purposes,  and  to  an  good  a 

distance  as  if  twice  as  far The  falling  water  seemed  to  jar  tlie  very  rocks,  and 

the  noise  to  be  ever  increasing.  The  vista  was  through  a  narrow  and  deep  cleft  in 
the  mountiiin,  all  white  suds  at  the  bottom.''  From  the  bed  of  the  stream  below 
"  rose  a  perpendicular  wall,  I  will  not  venture  to  .^ay  how  far,  but  only  tlia^  it  was 
the  higllest  perptmtiicular  w.ill  of  bare  rock  that  I  ever  saw.  .  .  .  This  precipice  is 
not  sloped,  nor  is  the  material  soft  and  crumbling  slate  as  at  .Montmorenci,  but  i6 
rises  perfectly  perpendicular,  like  the  .side  of  a  mountain  fortress,  and  is  cracked  into 
vast  cubical  masses  of  gray  .and  black  rock  shining  with  moistun;,  as  if  it  were  tho 

ruin  of  an  ancient  wall  built  by  Titans Take  it  altogether,  it  was  a  most  wild 

and  rugg'd  and  stupemlous  chasm,  so  deep  and  narrow  here  a  river  had  worn  it- 
self a  passage  tiirough  a  mountain  of  rock,  and  all  around  was  the  comparatively 
untrodden  wilderness."     (Thorkau.) 

The  base  of  the  St.  Anne  Mts.  is  reached  by  a  road  runnhig  up  the  val- 
ley for  3-5  M.  The  chief  peak  is  2,687  ft.  higli,  but  the  view  thence  is 
intercepted  by  trees.  The  Valley  of  St.  Feveol  is  8  M.  from  St.  Anne,  and 
is  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery.  It  contains  1,100  inliabitants,  and  in 
tlie  vicinity  are  several  lofty  and  picturesque  cascades.  Si.  Tite  des  Caps 
is  a  village  of  800  inhabitants,  5  .M.  from  the  river,  between  Cape  Tour- 
mente  and  the  St.  Fereol  Mts.  The  trouting  in  these  glens  is  very  good, 
and  rare  sport  is  found  at  Lake  St.  Joachim,  several  miles  beyond. 

St.  Joachim  is  5  ]M.  beyond  St.  Anne,  and  is  a  vilhige  of  1,000  inhabi- 
tants, situated  near  the  river,  and  opposite  St.  Francois  d' Orleans.  2  M. 
beyond  this  point  is  the  Ch&teau  Bcllevue  and  the  farm  of  the  Quebec 
Seminary.  The  summit  of  Cape  Tourmente  is  about  3  ]M.  from  the 
chateau,  and  is  sometimes  ascended  for  the  sake  of  its  superb  *  view.  The 
Seminarians  have  kept  a  cross  upon  this  peak  for  the  last  half-century; 
and  in  1869,  44  Catliolic  gentlemen,  led  by  the  Archbishop  of  Quebec, 
erected  a  new  one,  25  ft.  high,  and  covered  with  tin. 

The  Chhteau  Bfllevue  is  a  long  and  massive  building  of  limestone,  situated  near 
the  foot  of  Cape  Tourmente,  and  surrounded  by  noble  old  forests,  in  which  are 
sliiiiies  of  8t.  Joseph  and  the  Virgin.  The  chateau  is  furnished  with  rciding  and 
liilliard  rooms,  etc  ,  and  is  occupied  every  summer  by  about  40  priests  and  students 
from  the  Seminary  of  Quebec.  The  neat  Chapel  of  St.  Louis  de  Gonzaga  (the  pro- 
tector of  youth)  is  S  of  the  ch.lteau. 

Near  tliis  jioint  Jaques  Cartier  anohored  in  1535,  and  was  visited  by  the  Indians, 
who  brought  him  pres»mts  of  melons  and  maize.  In  1623  Champlain  came  hither 
from  Quebec  and  founded  a  settlement,  whose  traces  are  still  seen.  This  post  waa 
destroyed  by  Sir  David  Kirkes  men  in  1628,  and  the  settlers  were  driven  away. 

St.  Joachim  was  occupied  in  August,  1759,  by  150  of  the  78th  Highlanders,  who 


I 


hH 


'■.4  '^ 


r 


288      Rmde  71.        THE  ISLE  OF  ORLEANS. 


u  ^ 


Imd  ju8t  luarclMMl  down  the  TkIp  of  Orlpans,  throujch  St.  Pierre  and  St.  Fnmille. 
TIh'.v  wen'  ciiKiipd  in  tin;  Htivctn  by  iiriiied  villiiK'TH,  and  liad  a  slwir)>  »>kirn.i.>h 
ln'fon"  tin'  Cunadians  wen;  driven  into  tlu!  forent,  alt«'r  ^^llicll  tbo  iScuttiah  boldkrs 
fortified  tl>«'niM?lv««  In  the  priet-fs  lioune.  nuar  tin-  cluireh. 

Tlie  Hite  of  tlie  seminary  was  oecnjiiecl  before  lb7<»  i>y  iJiflinp  Laval,  who  founded 
here  a  rural  seminary  in  wliieli  the  .\outh  of  the  peanantry  were  inhtrueted.  Tliey 
were  well  grounded  in  tlie  doetrine  and  (IIm  iplinb  oi  tlie  Church,  and  were  in- 
strneted  in  the  mechanic  art*<  iind  in  varionn  liiaiichcH  of  farndng.  This  waH  the 
first  "  aKricnlturul  college  ""  in  Anu-rica,  Tiie  broad  seigniory  of  the  Ct'tede  Heaupre, 
wiiich  lies  between  St.  Joachim  and  IJeanport,  was  tlien  an  appanage  of  Hlfhop 
Laval,  and  waH  more  populous  than  Quebec  itself.  "Above  the  vast  meadows  of 
the  parish  of  St.  .Joachim,  that  here  border  the  St.  Lawrence,  there  rises  like  an 
island  a  low  flat  liill,  hedged  round  with  folest^«,  like  tlie  tonsured  head  of  a  monk. 
It  was  here  that  Laval  planted  his  sthool.  Across  the  meadows,  a  ndle  or  more  dis- 
tant, tower.s  the  mountain  promontviry  of  Cape  Tourmente.  You  may  clind)  ita 
woody  steeps,  and  IVoni  the  top,  waist-deep  in  blueberry-hushes,  survey,  from 
Kamouraska  to  Queliec,  the  grand  Canadian  world  outstretched  below  ;  or  mount 
the  neighboring  heights  of  St.  Anne,  where,  athwart  the  gaunt  arms  of  ancient 
pines,  the  river  lies  shimmering  in  summer  haze,  the  cottages  of  the  habilunts  are 
ptrung  like  beads  of  a  rosary  along  the  n.eadows  of  Heaupre,  the  shores  of  Orleans 
Itask  in  warm  light,  and  far  on  the  horizon  the  rock  of  Qiiclnc  rests  like  a  faint  gray 
cloud  ;  or  traverse  the  forest  till  the  roar  of  the  tont-nt  guides  you  to  the  rocky  sol- 
itude where  it  holds  its  savage  revels Game  on  the  river ;  trout  in  lakes, 

Ijrooks,  and  pools  ;  wild  fruits  and  flowers  on  the  meadows  and  mountains ;  a  thou- 
sand resounes  of  honest  and  healthful  recreation  here  wait  the  student  emancipated 
from  b(n)ks,  but  not  parted  for  a  moment  from  the  pious  influence  that  hangs  about 
the  old  walls  embosomed  in  the  woods  of  St.  Joachim.  Around  on  plains  and  hills 
Htand  the  dwelliiigs  of  a  peaceful  peasantry,  as  dillcrent  from  the  n'stle.ss  population 
of  the  neighboring  States  aa  the  denizens  of  some  >iormau  or  liretou  village."  (Park- 
mam.) 

71.  The  Isle  of  Orleans. 

Stenm  ferry-boats  leave  Quebec  three  times  daily  for  the  Isle  of  Orleans.  The 
trip  gives  beautiful  views  of  the  city  and  its  marine  environs,  and  of  the  Mout- 
luorenci  Falls  and  the  St.  Anne  Mts. 

The  island  is  traversed  by  two  roads.  The  N.  shore  road  passes  from  West  Point 
to  St.  Pierre,  in  6  M.  ;  St.  Famille,  14  M.  :  and  St  Fran(;ois,  20  M  The  S.  shore 
road  runs  from  West  Point  to  Patricks  Hole,  in  6  M. ;  St.  Laurent,  7i  ;  St..  John, 
13^  ;  St.  Fram;oi8,  21.  A  transverse  road  crosses  the  island  from  St.  Laurent  to  St. 
Pierre. 

The  IAq  of  Orleans  is  about  3  J  M.  from  Quebec,  and  contains  70  square 
miles  (47,923  acres)  of  land,  beinj;  20  M.  long  and  6i  M.  wide.  The  beau- 
tiful situation  of  the  island,  in  the  broad  St.  Lawrence,  its  picturesque 
heights  and  umbrageous  groves,  its  quaint  little  hamlets  and  peaceful  and 
pritnitive  people,  render  Orleins  one  of  the  most  interesting  districts  of 
the  Lower  Province,  and  justify  its  title  of  "the  Garden  of  Canada." 

The  island  was  called  Minigo  by  the  Indians,  a  large  tribe  of  whom  lived  here 
and  carried  on  the  fisheries,  providing  also  a  place  of  retreat  for  the  mainland  tribes 
in  case  of  invasion.  In  153o  Car  tier  explored  these  shores  and  the  hills  and  forests 
beyond,  being  warmly  welcomed  by  the  resident  Indians  and  feasted  with  fish, 
honey,  and  melons.  He  speaks  of  the  noble  forests,  and  adds:  "  We  found  there 
great  grape-vines,  such  as  we  had  not  seen  before  in  all  the  world  ;  and  for  that  wo 
named  it  the  Isle  of  IJacchus."  A  year  later  it  received  the  name  cf  the  Isle  of 
Orleans,  in  honor  of  De  Valois,  Duke  of  Orleans,  the  son  of  Frauds  1.  of  France. 
The  popular  name  was  Vlsle  des  Sorciurs  (Wizards'  Island),  either  on  account  of 
the  marvellous  skill  of  the  natives  in  foretelling  future  storms  and  uautieai  events, 
or  else  because  the  superstitious  colonists  on  the  mainland  were  alarmed  at  the 
nightly  movements  of  lights  along  the  insular  shores,  and  attributed  to  demons  and 
wizards  the  dancing  fires  which  were  carried  by  the  Indians  in  visiting  their  fish- 
nets during  the  night-tides. 


!t.  FnmlUe. 

ho  founded 
■tni.    They 
11(1  wt-re  in- 
his  wiiK  the 
lie  HeHupns 
e  of  Hifhop 
unailows  of 
•ises  like  an 
I  of  a  monk, 
or  more  dis- 
ay  clinih  its 
urvey,  from 
i  ;  or  mount 
iH  of  ancient 
iiubilants  are 
t-B  of  OrleanB 
L.  a  faint  gray 
;he  ro«-ky  sol- 
out  in  lakes, 
Bins ;;  a  thou- 
;  emancipated 
t  hangs  about 
lins  and  hills 
■ss  population 
age."    (Pakk- 


Orlenns.    The 
of  the  Mout- 

im  West  Point 

The  S.  shore 

7i;  St..  John, 

[Laurent  to  St. 

pns  70  square 
The  beau- 

picttiresque 
[peaceful  and 

districts  of 
lanada." 

Lm  lived  here 
tialnland  trihes 
[ills  and  forests 
Tjted  with  flsh, 
I'e  found  there 
Jind  for  that  wo 
L  cf  the  Isle  of 
Is  1.  of  France. 
Ion  account  of 
lautical  events, 
llarmed  at  the 
fto  demons  and 
Iting  their  fish- 


ST.    I'lERRE  D'OIILEANS.        RouteTL      289 

The  Island  was  prmntod  in  1020  to  the  Pieur  dor;ten  by  the  Duke  do  MontmorenrI, 
Viceroy  of  New  France.  In  IdT.')  ihii  fhstrict  was  torn.  I  into  the  Kjirldoiii  of  St 
Laurent,  and  was  confcrrcil  on  M  Hertlnlnt,  wlio  assui  .t<4  the  titli?  of  the  (,'ount  of 
St.  Ijuwrcnce.  In  Itl'il  flu'  N.  part  was  occupied  by  tKKl  (!hri.stlan  Hurons,  who  had 
taken  nfufxc  under  the  walls  of  (^uciicc  from  the  externiinatint^  Ironuois.  In  IhStJ 
the  Iri>({nois  demanded  that  tluy  should  eouic  and  <lwell  in  their  country,  and  upon 
their  refusal  fell  upon  the|lui(»iis  with  a  foneofiJiiO  warriors,  devasfttcd  the  island, 
und  killed  72  of  the  unforMuiate  Christians.  Two  trihes  were  compelled  soon  after 
to  surrender  and  he  led  a-;  captives  into  the  lro(|iiois  country,  while  the  Tribe  of  the 
Cord  left  the  islantl  and  settled  at  liOretl<\  The  Isle  was  overrun  by  Inxpiois  in 
lt)<)l,  and  in  an  ai-tion  with  liicm  at  liivic  re  Maheu,  De  Lauzon,  Seneschal  of  New 
France,  and  all  his  ;:;uard-t  wcie  kide(i,  |tret'errin<^  to  (Me  liiihtinj;  than  to  suricndtT 
and  bo  tortured  The  j^rcat  cross  of  .\rj;entenay  was  carried  away  and  raised  in  tri- 
umph at  the  Iro(|Uois  villajre  on  Lake  Ouondana  (.New  York). 

For  nearly  a  century  the  l.-le  enjoyed  peace  and  prosperity,  until  it  had  2,000  in- 
habi.'ants  with  0,000  cattle  and  rich  and  productive  farms.  Then  came  the  advance 
of  Wolfe's  Ih'et ;  the  inhabitants  all  He(l  to  Charleshourp  ;  the  unavailinj;  French 
troop.s  and  artillery  left  tlies(;  shores :  Wolfe's  troop.s  landed  at  St.  Laurent,  and 
eivcted  camps,  forts,  and  hospitals  on  the  S  K.  i)oint;  and  soon  afterward  the  Hrit- 
i»h  forces  systematically  ravaf^ed  the  deserted  country,  burning  nearly  every  house 
on  tjje  Isle,  and  ilestroyin;;  the  ondiards. 

The  Lsle  is  now  divided  into  two  seiirniories,  or  lordships,  whose  revenues  and 
titles  an?  vested  in  aneitait  French  families  of  Quebe<'.  The  soil  is  rich  and  di- 
versified, and  its  pretty  vistiis  justifv  Charlevo  x"s  sketch  (of  1720);  "  We  took  a 
stroll  on  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  whose  cultivated  fields  extend  around  like  a  i)road  am- 
phitheatre, and  }iracefully  end  the  view  on  every  side.  I  have  found  tiiis  country 
ia'autiful,  the  soil  good,  and  the  inhabitijuts  very  much  at  their  (!ase."  The  agri- 
cultural interest  is  now  declining,  owing  to  i\w  anficiueand  unprogressive  ideas  of 
the  farmers,  who  confine  themselves  to  small  areas  and  neglect  alternation  of  crops. 
Tlie  farms  are  celebrated  for  their  excellent  potatoes,  plums,  apples,  and  for  a  rare 
and  delicious  variety  of  small  cheeses.  The  iicople  are  tcm|)erate,  generous,  and 
hospitable,  and,  by  rea.son  of  their  insular  position,  still  preserve  the  primitive 
Norman  customs  of  tlie  early  settlers  under  Champlain  and  Frontena-.  The  Isle 
and  the  adjacent  shore  of  Heanpre  have  been  called  the  nursery  of  ('aiiada,  so  many 
have  been  the  emigrants  from  these  swarming  hives  who  have  settled  in  otlier  parts 
of  the  Provinces. 

St  Pierre  is  the  villa jre  nearest  to  Quebec  (9  i\I.),  and  is  reached  by 
ferry-steamers,  which  also  run  to  BenuVwu.  It  has  about  700  inhabitants, 
and  is  beautifully  situated  nearly  opposite  the  Montmorenci  Kails  and 
Ange  Gardien.  The  first  chapel  was  erected  here  in  1651  by  I*6re  Lale- 
niant,  and  was  used  bv  the  Hurons  and  French  in  common.  In  1769  the 
present  church  of  St.  Pierre  was  erected.  On  this  shore,  in  1825,  were 
built  the  colossal  timber-ships,  the  Columbus,  3,700  tons,  and  the  Bnion 
Renfrew,  3,000  tons,  the  largest  vessels  that  the  world  had  seen  up  to  that 
time. 

The  convent  of  St.  Familh'  was  founded  in  1685,  by  the  Sisters  of  the 
Congregation,  and  since  that  time  the  good  nuns  have  educated  the  girls 
of  the  village,  having  generally  about  70  in  the  institution.  The  mmnery 
is  seen  near  the  church,  and  was  built  in  1699,  having  received  additions 
from  time  to  time  as  the  village  increased.  Its  cellar  is  divided  into  nar- 
row and  contracted  cells,  wliose  design  has  been  long  forgotten.  Tlic 
woodwork  of  the  convent  was  burned  by  Wolfe's  foragers  in  1759,  but  was 
restored  in  1761,  after  the  Conquest  of  Canada.  The  first  church  of  St. 
Faniille  was  built  in  1671,  and  the  present  chui'ch  dates  from  1745.    The 

la  s 


I, 


,1 


1, 


Iff    ' 


h'i 


290      Route?!.      ST.   LAURENT  D'ORLKANS. 

villawe  is  nearly  opposite  Chateau  Kicher,  and  coininands  fine  views  of  the 
Laurentian  Mts. 

The  Parish  of  St.  Frant^oia  inrhules  tlio  (Inmain  of  the  ancient  fief  of 
Arpenteiiay,  and  was  fornu'd  in  1078.  In  1<)H3  tlie  first  church  was  hudt, 
and  the  present  clinrch  dates  from  \7W.  and  was  phnidered  l)y  Wolfe's 
tnjops  in  1759,  The  view  from  tlie  ('Inirch  is  very  beantiful,  and  inchules 
the  St.  Lawrence  to  tlie  horizon,  the  white  villages  of  the  S.  coast,  and  the 
isles  of  Madame,  Grosse,  and  IJeaux.  On  the  N.  shore,  at  the  end  of  the 
island,  are  the  broad  meadows  of  Argentenay,  where  wild-fowl  aiul  other 
game  are  sought  hy  the  si)ortsmeii  of  (Quebec.  This  district  looks  across 
the  N.  Channel  upon  the  dark  ami  imposing  ridges  of  the  St.  Aime  Mts.  and 
the  peaks  of  St.  Fer(''oI;  and  the  view  from  the  church  is  yet  more  exten- 
sive and  beautiful. 

The  church  of  St.  John  was  built  in  1735.  near  the  site  of  a  chapel 
dating  from  1675,  and  contemporary  with  the  hamlet.  This  parish  is 
famous  for  tlie  numl)er  of  skilful  river-pilots  which  it  has  furnished.  It 
lias  about  1,3U0  inhabitants,  and  is  the  most  impcjrtant  parish  on  the  island. 
It  is  nearly  opposite  the  S.  shore  village  of  St.  Michel  (see  page  254). 

St.  Laurent  is  7  M.  from  St.  Jean,  upon  the  well-settled  royal  road. 
The  parish  is  entered  after  crossing  the  Kiviere  Maheu,  where  the  Seneschal 
of  New  France  fell  in  battle.  The  Church  of  St.  Laurent  is  a  stately 
edifice  of  cut  stone  with  a  shining  tin  roof,  and  is  113  ft.  in  length.  It  re- 
j)laced  churches  of  1075  and  1097,  and  was  consecrated  in  1S61.  The 
Jioute  (Its  Pvttres  runs  X.  from  St.  Laurent  to  St.  Pierre,  and  was  so  named 
(JO  years  ago,  when  this  church  had  a  piece  of  St.  Paul's  arm-bone,  which 
■was  taken  away  to  St.  Pierre,  and  tlience  was  stolen  at  night  by  the  St. 
Laurent  people.  After  long  controversy,  the  Hishop  of  Quebec  ordered 
that  Ciich  church  should  restore  to  the  other  its  own  relics,  which  was 
done  along  this  road  by  large  processions,  the  relics  being  exchanged  at 
the  great  black  cross  midway  on  the  road.  1^  M.  W.  of  St.  Laurent  is 
the  celebrated  haven  called  Trou  St.  Patrice  (since  1089),  or  Patrick's 
Hole,  where  vessels  seek  shelter  in  a  storm,  or  outward-bound  ships  await 
orders  to  sail.  The  river  is  1  j  M.  wide  here,  and  there  are  10  -  12  fathoms 
of  water  in  the  cove.  2  M.  W.  of  this  point  is  the  Caverne  de  Bontemps, 
a  grotto  about  20  ft.  deep  cut  in  the  solid  rock  near  the  level  of  the  river. 


!.  5 

ii  .'  •     ' . 


2,3; 


QUEBEC  TO  THE  SAOUENAY.     Route  72.      291 


72.    Quebec  to  Cacouna  and  the  Saguenay  River.  — The 
North  Shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Chnnrjc!^  nf  time  fnl'c  p'nrffrnm  !>pnsnn  fniiprtunn.  The  infrinHvu  trnvpffer 
shnuhf  irrili'  to  the  St.  Lfiirnncc  Stcdtii  Ndriydtiaii  Co.,  i^mhcc/or  Intent 
tinit'-tahlcH. 

At  7  A.M  ,  on  Tiicsdny  ami  Fridiiy.  the  Sfiaiifnni/  loaves  Quebec  for  !*t.  Paul'ii 
l)ny,  I/OS  KlKiuleiiieMt-:,  Slurriiy  Hiiy,  Kivi<  r<>  dii  Lnup  (Carouiia),  Tddousac,  lla  Ila 
J5ay,  aiul  Chicouthni ;  roacliiii);  Qiu'ltee  jijiain  on  Thursday  and  .Monday  niornintjs. 

On  Wcdiit'.'iday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  the  f'ninn  or  tlie  St.  Ijturf^nre  leaves 
Quebec  at  7  K  M.,  for  Mtirray  Hay,  Ilivii  re  du  Loup,  TadouHue,  and  Ila  Ila  Hay; 
rtachinu:  Quehee  the  scooud  inoruiiiL'  after. 

On  Saturday  the  St.  Lairn  xrf  ]v\vv>*  Qucbee.  at  noon,  for  Murray  Bay,  Riviere 
du  Fioup,  and  Itiniouski  ;  reaehin^  Quebec  iijraln  on  Tuesday  niornin)?. 

I)lHt?fiic»*N.  —  tiuebc<'  to  St.  Laurent,  12  M.  ;  St.  Jolin  (Orleans),  17;  L-^le  Ma- 
dame, 2:i;  Ciip<' Tmiruiente,  2H ;  St.  Francois  Xavier  45;  St.  I'aul's  Bay,  .^r) ;  Les 
Jlhouleinents,  fl)? ;  Mnrray  Bay,  82  ;  Riviere  Du  Loup,  112  (Cacouna,  118);  Tadousac, 
134  (Chicoutiuii,  235) 

Tlie  S.  shore  is  described  in  Route  67  (pajjes  246-2r>r)),  nnd  the  Isle  of 
Orleans  in  Route  71.  As  the  steamer  moves  down  across  the  Basin  of 
Quebec,  beautiful  *  views  are  afforded  on  all  sides,  including  a  fascinating 
retrospect  of  the  lofty  fort  res  . 

"  Behind  us  lay  tlie  city,  with  it.s  tinneil  roofs  glittenuK  in  the  morning  sunshine, 
and  it«  citadel-rock  to\verin)i;  over  tlie  river  ;  on  tlie  southern  .'iliorc,  I'oint  lievi, 
picturesquely  dinibintr  the  steep  bank,  embowered  in  dark  trees  ;  tlicn  the  wooded 
iiluff«  with  their  loiij^  levels  of  fann-land  behind  them,  and  the  scattered  eottapesof 
t!ie  liithilnnts,  whUt'  northward  thc.slmre  rose  with  a  gradual,  undulating  sweep, 
flittering,  fnr  inland,  with  houses,  and  gardens,  and  crowding  villages,  until  it 
leached  the  dark  stormy  line  of  the  Laurentian  Mts.  in  the  N  K  .  .  The  sky,  the 
air,  the  colors  of  the  landscape,  were  from  Norway ;  QucViee  and  the  surrouT^ding 
villages  suggested  Normandy,  —  except  the  tin  roofs  and  spires,  wliich  wen-  Russian, 
rather;  while  here  and  there,  though  rarely,  were  the  marks  of  English  o  cupancy. 
The  age,  the  order,  the  api)arent  stability  and  immobility  of  society,  a.*  illustrated 
by  external  things,  belonged  decidedly  to  Europe.  This  part  of  America  is  but  70 
or  80  years  older  than  New  England,  yet  there  seems  to  be  a  difference  of  tWO  years." 
(B.w.KKD  Tavlor.) 

After  running  for  17  M  between  the  populous  shores  and  brij^ht  villages 
of  Orleans  and  Bellocliasse  (see  page  254),  the  steamer  turns  to  the  N.  K., 
when  off  St.  John,  and  goes  toward  Cape  Tourmente,  passing  between  Isl^ 
Madame  and  the  Isle  of  Orleans.  Then  St.  Francois  is  passed,  on  the  1., 
and  the  meadows  of  Argcntenay  are  seen,  over  which  is  St.  Joachim.  As 
the  N.  Channel  is  opened,  a  distant  view  of  St.  Anne  do  Beaupr^  may  be 
ohtalned,  under  the  frowning  St.  Anne  ^Its.  Cape  Tourmente  (see  page 
2S7)  is  now  passed,  beyond  which  are  the  great  Laurentian  peaks  of  Cope 
Roufje.  and  CapeXlribatine,  over  2,000  ft.  high,  and  impinging  so  closely  on 
the  river  that  neither  road  nor  houses  can  be  built.  These  mountains  are 
of  granite,  and  are  partially  wooded.  3  M.  N,  E.  of  Cape  Tourmente  is  a 
lighthouse,  175  ft.  above  the  water,  on  the  rugged  slope  of  Cape  Ronge. 
A  fevv  miles  to  the  E.  is  the  Sault  au  Cochon,  under  the  crest  of  a  mountain 
2,370  ft.  high. 


i 

i 


4i! 


r. 


',  4 


P-^'* 


} 


292      Route  7i. 


ST.   PAUL'S   DAY, 


1  /. 

■   r 


I 


• 


'Hh«m1  tlu'lr 
tiuie  were 


,  '^m 


Willi  iiint-iiiif^  1  kmimp'^,  i^Kit    mill  liiiii,  or  iiiiiriirii   niiii  ii  xiiini'ii    iriiii^|iiiri'l 

Hiii)Mhirit>,  —  iilNTiiatiii^r  ln-lfK  nf  iitiiKisplicrif  ctrfct,  wlilcli  greatly  iiicnN 
lieaiifv.     IikIi'imI,  nil  of  uh  w)io  kiw  tlic   l-fiwcr  St.  Liiwrciico  for  t ho  iirst 
MurpriK-d  by  tlio  iiiiposiiif^  clmrutter  of  it«  ticencry.''    (Havahu  Taylor.) 


Beyond  Al)attiH  ntul  X\w.  hirrli  din's  of  Cape  Miiillard  the  stemnor  pusses 
tlio  populous  village  o^  St.  Frnn^oin  Xavier,  exfcindiiip  up  the  valley  of  tho 
Bouchard  Kiver.  On  the  S.  n  loiip  line  of  picturesque  islets  is  passed 
(see  pnpe  254).  Beyond  Cape  Lal)aie  the  steamer  lies  to  off  St.  I'uul's 
Bay,  whoso  unique  and  beautiful  scenery  is  fjeen  from  the  deck. 

8t.  Paul's  Bay  (two  small  inns)  is  a  parish  of  4,000  inhahilants,  situ- 
ated amid  the  prrandest  scenery  of  the  N.  sh(»re.  The  people  are  all  French, 
nnd  tho  village  is  clustered  about  the  church  and  convent  near  the  Gouffre 
Kiver.  In  the  vicinity  are  found  iron,  plumbago,  limestone,  garnet-rock, 
nnd  curious  saline  and  sulphurous  sj)rings.  It  is  claimed  that  "no  parish 
offers  so  much  of  interest  to  the  tourist,  the  poet,  or  the  naturalist."  The 
■wild  and  turbulent  streams  that  sweep  down  the  valley  have  carried  away 
uU  the  bridges  which  have  been  erected  by  the  people.  The  summer 
board ing-houHCS  at  St.  Paul's  Bay  are  kept  by  Joseph  Cimon  and  Joseph 
Duchene. 

The  vistas  tip  tho  valleys  of  tho  OoulTre  and  the  Moulin  Rivers  show  rlistnnt 
ranges  of  pirturesquo  blue  niouiitaiiis.  with  groups  of  conical  Alpine  peak.s  In  1791 
it  is  claimed  that  the  shores  of  the  bay  were  shaken  by  carth<|uukes  for  many  days, 
after  which  one  of  the  peaks  to  the  N.  belched  forth  great  volumes  of  smoke  and 
p:issed  into  the  volcanic  .state,  emittiiif?  columns  of  tlume  thr"Ut;h  several  days.  The 
peaks  an;  bare  and  white,  with  sharp  precipices  near  the  siuiimit.  The  valley  ,.f 
the  Gouffre  has  been  likened  to  tlic  Vale  of  Clwyd,  in  Wales,  and  is  traversal  by  a 
fair  road  alonj;  the  r.  bank  of  the  rapid  river,  lo  -  12  M.  from  the  bay  are  the  ex- 
tensive deposits  of  mapnetie  iron-oro  whicli  were  exjilored  by  order  of  Intendant 
Talon,  a  century  and  a  half  ajio.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  valley,  y  >L  from  St. 
Paul's  Bay,  is  St.  ['rhnin,  a  French  Catholic  viilaiie  of  about  1,000  inhat  itants.  By 
this  route' the  tri-weekly  Royal  niail-stases  cross  to  Cbicoutind,  on  the  i\(iper  Sapne- 
nny  (see  page  300).  St.  Pldade  (Clairvaux)  is  also  back  of  St.  i'aul's  Bay,  and  has 
400  inhabitants. 

"  In  all  the  miles  of  counfrv  T  had  pa.s.«ed  over,  I  had  seen  nothing  to  equal  the 
exquisite  beauty  of  the  Yale  of  Bale  St.  Paul  From  the  hill  on  which  we  stood, 
the  whole  valley,  of  many  miles  in  extent,  was  visible.  It  \sas  perfectly  level,  and 
covered  from  end  to  end' with  little  hamlets,  and  .several  churches,  with  here  and 

there  a  few  small  patches  of  forest Like  the  Happy  Vallf>  of  Rasselas,  it  was 

surrounded  bv  the  most  wild  and  niirged  mountains,  which  ro>e  In  endless  succes- 
sion one  behind  the  other,  stretching  away  in  tho  distance,  til|  they  resembled  a 
faint  blue  wave  in  the  horizon."   (Bau.antyne.  ' 

"  Nothing  can  be  more  picture.«(iue  than  the  landscape  which  may  be  viewed  from 
the  crest  of  Cap  au  Corbeau.  Have  you  courajxe  to  clamber  up  the  long  slopes  of 
Cap  an  Corbeau  ;  to  see  tlie  white-sailed  schooners  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay  ;  to 
comprehend  the  thousand  divers  objects  at  your  feet:  the  sinuous  course  of  the 
Marine  and  of  the  serpentine  OoufTre  ;  on  the  S.  the  old  mansions  and  rich  pas- 
tures ;  to  see  the  church  and  cnnvsTit  !!nd  tb.e  viUagre,  the  Cap  iV  U  R*.y.  the  bottom 
of  the  bay  ;  and,  fjirther  away,  t\  •  shores  of  St.  Autoine  Perou,  St,  Jerome,  St. 
John,  St.  Joseph,  and  St.  Flavien^      (TRunFLLE.) 

The  Bay  was  settled  early  iu  the  ITtU  ceutury ,  and  has  always  been  noted  for  its 


.  thf  Fii'iich 
)»'  NnnniniM 
1  Hliore.  The 
I. 

1(1  nntl  (Inrk 
n-iicy  l»y  tlio 
■n'HHfd  tlii'ir 
St  tluie  were 
) 

irior  pMsspS 
•iillfv  of  tho 
s  i.«  ptissed 

r  St.  ruura 

K. 

ihmts,  Pitu- 
'  nil  French, 
•tilt;  (j  on  Are 
ejurnet-rock, 
"no  parisli 

ilist."     The 

« 

iirried  away 
rhe  summer 
I  and  Joseph 

show  (Hi*t!int 

Iks    In  1791 

DF  many  days, 

of  hinoke  and 

ral  days.    Tho 

Tho  valley  of 

;raverst(l  by  a 

y  are  th«>  t'X- 

of  l\itendant 

y  M.  from  St. 

il  Hants.    By 

upper  Sap;ne- 

liay,  and  has 

<r  to  eqnal  the 

liih  we  stood, 
tly  level,  and 
ith  here  and 

lasselas,  it  was 
ndless  suct-es- 

y  resembled  a 

DC  viewed  from 
lonp  slopes  of 
>f  the  bay  ;  to 
course  of  the 
and  rich  yas- 
y.  the  bottom 
t.' Jerome,  St. 

sn  noted  for  its 


TSLE  AUX  COUDRES. 


Iiout9  72.      203 


purthqnakod  and  volcanic  dlsitiirhanoon.  Tn  Ortolxr,  1^70,  U  ft>H;  nueh  a  p«»vep<» 
Hhiick  that  nearly  every  house  hi  the  vallev  was  tlHniatfcd.  In  17iV.)  the  viljajre  wait 
'li'-itroved  by  Oorlnim'H  New-Un^land  Hangers,  utter  the  iuhubituntH  had  defended 
It  for  two  hours. 

"  Above  the  (iiilph  I  have  jn^t  mentioned  is  the  Hay  of  St  PituI,  wher»«  the  IIaV>- 
itations  bet^iii  on  the  North  Side  ;  and  then'  are  some  Woods  of  I'ine-Trees,  w  Jijeh 
are  mueh  valued  :  Here  are  also  some  red  I'ines  of  ^reat  Keauty  Messrs.  of  ttiu 
S<Mninary  of  (^iifhec  are  liords  of  this  Hay.  Si.x  L«'ajrues  hij^lier,  there  is  a  very 
hl;?h  Promontory,  which  ferminatj'S  a  Chain  of  MoiuitJiins,  whieli  extetid  above  4<l() 
l,eaj,'iies  to  the  West ;  It  is  called  Cape  Tiyurnunie.  probably  because  ho  tiiat  guva  it 
thi"!  \ame,  snITered  here  by  a  Oust  of  Wind.'"    (('iiaiu..,voix.) 

The  W.  promontory  of  St.  I'aul's  Hay  is  Cape  Labaie  ;  that  r)n  the  K  ,  opposite 
the  Isle  MUX  Coudn-s,  is  Cnpf  Cnrhnin.  "  This  cape  has  something  of  thu  majestio 
and  of  the  mournful.  At  a  little  distance  it  ndj^ht  be  taken  for  one  of  the  innnt-nso 
tombs  erected  in  the  middle  of  the  K);y|itian  deserts  by  the  vanity  of  some  puny 
mortal.  A  cloud  of  l)irds,  children  of  storm,  wheel  continually  about  its  flr- 
cruwned  brow,  and  seem,  by  their  itiuidter  cruuking,  tu  iutuuu  the  funeral  ofsume 
dyiuK  man.'' 

Between  St.  Paul's  Bay  and  the  Isle  aux  Coudres  is  the  whirlpool 
called  Le  Gouffre,  where  the  water  suddenly  uttain.s  a  de{)tli  of  .30  fatli- 
oms,  and  "at  eUh-tidc  the  outer  currents  are  ropulsctl  from  Coudres  to  Cor- 
be:iu  h  wide  swirlinj;  eddies.  It  is  said  that  hefore  the  (ioullre  bej^an  to 
fill  with  sand  schooners  which  were  eau<i:ht  in  tliese  eddies  described  a 
series  of  spiral  curves,  tho  last  of  which  landed  them  on  the  rocks.  It 
was  the  most  dreaded  point  on  this  shore,  and  many  lives  were  lost  here; 
but  its  navi;xation  is  now  safe  an<l  easy. 

The  Isle  aux  Coudres  is  5^  M.  long  and  2i  M.  wide,  and  is  a  charm- 
in;^  remnant  of  primitive  Norman  life.  It  hns  Mhout  800  inhabitants,  ef> 
gaged  in  farming,  and  more  purely  w  ifleval  Krench  than  any  other 
people  in  Canada.  The  houses  are  ino«tly  along  the  lines  of  the  N.  W. 
and  S.  E.  shores;  and  the  Church  v>t  St.  Louis  is  on  tho  S.  W.  point. 
The  island  is  still  owned  by  the  seminary  of  Quebec,  to  which  it  was 
granted  in  1687.  Large  numbers  of  porpoises  are  caught  between  this 
point  and  the  Riviere  Quelle,  on  the  S.  shore.  Bayard  Taylor  says: 
"  The  Isle  aux  Coudres  is  a  beautiful  pastoral  mosaic  in  the  pale  emerald 
setting  of  the  river." 

Off  the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  and  between  that  point  and  Riviere  Ouelle,  great  num- 
bers of  wliite  whales  are  cautrht,  in  fish-pounds  made  for  the  purpose.  These  fisii 
(often  taken  for  porpoi-ses)  live  in  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  from  April  to  October, 
when  they  mij^rate  to  the  Gulf  and  the  Arctic  Ocean.  They  are  from  14  t.  22  ft. 
in  length,  and  yield  100-  120  ^j.i lions  of  tine  oil,  which  is  mucli  used  for  lighrhou.se 
purposes,  beeause  it  does  not  freeze  in  winter.  A  valuable  leather  is  made  from 
their  skins. 

When  Cartier  was  advancing  up  the  St.  Lawrence  in  1535,  under  the  direction  of 
the  Quebec  Indians  whom  he  had  abducted  from  Gasp  ■,  he  landed  on  this  island, 
and.  marvelling  at  the  numerous  hazel-trees  upon  the  hills,  named  it  L' Isle  aux 
Coudres  (Hazel-tree  Island).  This  point  he  made  the  division  between  tiie  country 
of  Siiguenay  and  that  of  Canada.  ''  In  16fi.3  an  Earthquake  rooted  up  a  Mountain, 
and  threw  it  upon  tho  Isle  of  Con/Ire:^,  which  was  made  one  half  larger  than  before, 
and  in  the  Place  of  the  Mountain  there  appeared  a  Gulf,  which  it  is  not  safe  to 

aj"'ja'Oa«:ii.    ' 

Tlie  island  was  deserted  by  its  inhabitants  in  the  summer  of  1759,  when  great 
British  fleets  were  anchored  off  the  shores,  but  several  boats'  crews  were  driven 
from  the  strand  by  rangers.    Three  British  officers  landed  on  the  isle,  carrying  a  flag 


!| 


I 


I 


^! 


f'wt. 


f 


294      Route 


^19 


MURRAY   BAY. 


*    .. 


i    '  . 


%  I.- 


f     ■" 


if    ■■■i 


which  they  were  about  to  raise  on  the  chief  oniinonro  before  the  fleet ;  but  they 
were  cut  off  bv  a  sin.ill  pnrfy  of  Caninliims,  and  were  Icil  |irisoiU'rs  to  Quebec.  Atl- 
juiral  Diifoll  tirst  reiu'hcil  tlie  i'^laml,  with  lU  frigatesi,  aud  captured  ij  l^'rouch  ves- 
sels bearing  1,H00  barrels  of  powder. 

Tlie.  steiuncT  runs  S.  E.  for  sevonil  inilo<  in  tlie  narrow  channel  Itetweon 
tlio  Isle  iinx  (/oudros  find  tho  mountains  of  the  N.  Shore.  At  11  M  from 
St,  Paul's  Bay  it  rounds  in  at  the  i)ier  (!t20  ft.  lon<};)  of  tlie  i)arish  of  Lss 
Eboulements,  a  farminjj;  district  of  2.400  itduibitant".  '•  Hip:h  on  the 
crest  of  the  Laurentides,  old  jis  tiic  world,  the  tourist  sees  on  the  N.,  on 
landing  at  the  Eboulements  pier,  the  handsome  parish-church."  The  situa- 
tion of  this  village  is  one  of  the  most  (]uaint  and  charming  on  the  river, 
and  overlooks  the  St.  Lawrence  for  many  leagues.  The  white  houses  are 
grouped  snugly  about  the  tall  Notre  Dame  Church,  above  which  the  dark 
peak  of  Mt.  Eboulements  rises  to  the  height  of  2,547  ft. 

Tn  the  vicinity  of  Les  fboulemonts  are  visible  the  trncl<s  of  the  great  land-slidea 
of  1()('p3,  in  tliat  season  wlien  so  many  marvellous  jtheiioinena  were  seen  in  Canada. 
The  St.  Lawrence  ran  "  white  as  milk,"  as  far  down  as  Tadousac  ;  ranges  of  liills  were 
thrown  down  into  the  river,  or  were  swallmved  up  in  tlie  plains  ;  earthqual<csshat- 
tt'red  the  houses  and  slioolt  the  trees  until  the  Indians  said  that  the  forests  were 
drunic  ;  vast  fissures  opened  in  tlie  ground  ;  and  the  courses  of  streams  were  dianged. 
Meteors,  liery-wingcd  serpents,  and  ghastly  spectn's  were  seen  in  the  air;  roarings 
and  mysterious  voices  sounded  on  every  side;  and  tlie  confessionals  of  all  the 
cliurches  were  crowded  witli  penitents,  awaiting  the  end  of  the  world. 

The  steamer  now  rounds  the  huge  mass  of  Mt.  EI)oulemcnts,  passing  the 
rugged  spurs  called  Goose  Cape  and  Cape  Corneille.  On  the  E.  slope  is 
seen  the  large  village  of  B^t.  Irenee^  where  900  French  people  preserve  their 
ancient  customs  and  language.  A  few  miles  farther  E.  the  steamer  rounds 
in  at  Murray  Hay. 

Murray  Bay  is  the  favorite  smumer  resort  of  the  N.  Shore,  and  has 
fine  facilities  for  boating  and  bathing,  with  a  long  firm  beach.  It  is  also 
one  of  the  best  fishing-centres  in  the  Province,  aud  sportsmen  meet  with 
success  in  the  waters  of  the  beautiful  Murray  Kiver,  or  the  Gravel  and 
Petit  Lakes.  The  steamer  stojis  at  the  long  wharf  at  Point  a  Pi'jue,  near 
which  are  the  hotels,  trcquented  in  sunmu'r  by  many  (Juobec  families,  who 
enjoy  the  heautiftfl  scenery  of  the  adjacent  country.  There  are  also  sum- 
mer cottaii'os  aoout  the  base  of  Cap  a  I'Aif/Ic.  The  tourists  occupy  Point 
h  Pique,  and  make  excursions  to  the  lakes  and  the  falls,  the  Trou,  Frazer 
Falls,  the  Chute,  etc  Tlie  I'l-ciich  town  is  ;{  ]\I.  E.,  at  the  Murray-River 
bridge,  about  the  great  church  aud  court-house  of  Charlevoix  Count  It 
has  ;i,()00  inliabitants.  IJead  Annie  Ilowciis  Frt'chitte's  paper  in  Ilarptr's 
MiKjdziiw,  .luly,  1884.     Clianuird's  Lome  House  is  the  chief  hotel. 

"  Of  all  the  picturesque  parishes  on  the  shore  of  our  grand  river,  to  which  innu- 
merable  swarms  of  tourists  go  every  suiiui.er  to  take  the  waters,  none  will  infenst 
the  lover  of  sublime  landscapes  more  than  Malliaie.  One  irust  go  there  to  enjoy  the 
rugged,  the  grandeur  of  nature,  the  broad  horizons,  lie  will  not  find  liere  the  bc;iu- 
tiful  wheat-tield:  of  KanIOU^l^^ka,  the  pretty  and  verdurous  sliores  of  Cacouna  or 
Kimouski.  where  tbe  1-inguorous  citizen  goes  to  strengMicn  \\U  energies  during  the 
dog-da.' «  ;  here  is  savage  and  unconciiieretl  nature,  and  view-points  yet  more  majes- 
tic than  those  of  the  coasts  and  walls  of  liic.  I'recipice  on  precipice  ;  impenetrable 
j^orges  in  tlie  projections  of  the  rucks  ;  ))eaks  wliicli  lose  themselves  in  the  clouds, 
aud  among  w'aich  the  bears  wander  through  July,  iu  search  of  berries;  where  the 


RIVlteRE  DU  LOUP. 


Route  72.      295 


;  but  they 
lobt'c.  Ad- 
j'reuch  vea- 


3I  between 

.1  M  from 

•Ish  of  Les 

ia;li  on  tlie 

the  N.,  on 

Tlio  situii- 

I  the  river, 

honses  nre 

3h  the  dark 


it  land-plifloo 
1  in  Canada. 
s  of  hills  were 
liqualtcs  shat- 
I  forests  were 
Acrt'dmnjiod. 
air;  roarings 
lis  of  all  the 

,  passing  the 
;  E.  slope  is 
reserve  their 
ainer  rounds 

-)re,  and  has 
.  It  is  also 
1  meet  with 
(liiivel  and 
ri'im,  near 
milies,  who 
e  also  sum- 
ccvipy  point 
rou,  Frazor 
nrray-Kiver 
Count'  .  It 
in  Harptr'i 
otcl. 

lo  wliich  innu- 
li'  will  interest 
Ve  to  eiijov  the 
[lore  the  beitvi- 
jif  Cacounu  or 
les  during  the 
It  more  uiiijes- 
inipenetrable 
lin  the  clouds, 
t;s;  where  the 


caribou  browses  in  September ;  where  the  solitary  crow  and  the  royal  eagle  make 
their  nests  in  May  ;  in  short,  ulpine  landscapes,  tin'  pithless  hi;j;hlands  of  Scotland, 
a  Ilvronic  nature,  tossed  about,  lieiiped  up  in  the  North,  far  from  the  ways  of  civ- 
ilized men,  near  a  volcano  that  from  time  to  time  awakens  and  shakes  the  country  in 
a  manner  to  frighten,  but  not  to  endanger,  tlie  romantic  inhabitants.  According  to 
some,  in  order  to  enjoy  all  the  fulness  of  these  austere  beauties,  one  must  be  at  tho 
privileged  epoch  of  lifl;.  If  then  you  wish  to  taste,  in  their  full  features,  the  dreamy 
solitudes  of  the  shores,  the  grottos,  the  great  forests  of  Point  a  l'i(jue  or  (!ap  .^ 
I'Aiglt!,  or  to  capture  by  hundreijs  tlie  frisking  trout  of  the  remote  Gravel  Lake,  you 
must  have  a  good  eye,  a  well-nerved  arm,  and  a  supple  leg"    (LkMoine.  ) 

This  district  was  formerly  known  as  the  King's  Farm,  and  had  30  houses  at  the 
conquest  of  Canada.  It  was  tlum  granted  to  the  Scottisli  officers.  Major  Nairn  and 
Malcom  Fraser,  who  .soon  promoted  its  settlement.  It  was  exjilore  I  in  June,  l()l)8, 
by  ('hiimplain,  who  named  it  Malle  Haie,  on  account  of  "  the  tide  which  runs  there 
marvellously,  and,  even  though  the  weither  is  calm,  the  bay  is  greatly  moved.''  It 
is  still  generally  known  as  Malbaie,  thougli  the  English  use  the  name  Murrav  Kay, 
given  in  lionor  of  the  genenl  who  gr.inteil  it  to  the  Scots.  The  Scotch  familiea 
brought  out  by  Fraser  and  Nairn  are  now  French  in  language!  and  customs.  A 
depot  for  American  prisoners-of-war  was  e.stablisiied  here  in  1776.  near  the  Nairn 
manor-house,  and  the  barracks  were  built  by  the  captives  themselves. 

The  great  French  settlement  of  St.  Annen,  with  1,000  inhabitants,  is  9  M.  W.  of 
Murray  Bay,  uj)  the  valley,  and  on  the;  verge  of  the  wide  wilderness  of  the  Crown 
Lands.  A  rugged  road  foUosvs  the  N.  shore  from  Murray  Bay  to  the  Saginmay 
River,  a  distance  of  about  40  M.,  passing  the  romantic  St  Fidele  (9  M.  out ;  1,000 
inhabitants),  the  lumbering  village  of  I'ort  an  Persil,  the  hamlets  of  Black  River, 
Port  aux  Quilles,  St.  Simeon,  and  Calli  re,  back  of  which  are  mountains  where 
many  moose  and  caribou  are  found.  Still  farther  E.  is  Bale  des  Rochera,  on  an 
island-studded  bay. 

The  steamer  now  stretches  out  across  the  river  in  a  diagonal  course  of 
30  M.,  the  direction  being  about  X.  E.  Tlin  river  is  about  20  M.  wide, 
and  the  steamer  soon  comes  in  sight  of  the  Kamouraska  Islands  (seo  page 
252),  on  the  1.,  and  then  passes  between  Hare  Island  (1.)  and  the  Pil- 
grims. The  vessel  soon  reaches  the  long  pier  at  Point  a  Beaulieu,  3  M. 
from  Riviere  du  Loup. 

Riviere  du  Loup  {*La  Roclwlle  Uonse;  aid  several  large  summer 
boiirding-houses)  is  a  prosperous  village  of  4,500  inh'bitants,  occupying 
a  fine  position  on  a  hillsido  near  the  mouth  of  the  river.  There  are  some 
])retty  villas  in  tho  vicinity,  and  tho  great  church  in  the  centre  of  the 
town  is  a  prominent  landmark  for  miles.  About  3  M.  up  the  river  are  the 
famous  *  Rkiere-du-Loiip  Falls,  near  the  new  and  massive  bridge  of  the 
Intercolonial  Railway.  The  stream  hero  plunges  over  a  cliff  about  80  ft. 
high,  and  then  rests  quietly  in  a  broad  pool  below.  Tho  views  of  tho 
river  and  its  islands  and  shipping,  from  the  streets  of  the  village,  are 
broad  and  beautiful;  and  many  summer  visitors  pass  their  vacations 
here,  finding  comfortable  accommodations  in  the  boarding-houses.  The 
Teniiscouata  road  runs  S.  E.  fn)m  this  point  into  New  Brunswick,  cross- 
ing numerous  trout-streams  and  leading  through  a  desolate  region  of 
hills.  Its  first  point  of  interest  is  tho  long  Temiscounta  Lalce  (see  page 
5s). 

Riviere  du  Loup  will  soon  be  one  of  the  chief  railway-centres  of  Canada.  Tt  has 
been  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Hue  for  years.    The  Intercolonial  is  now 


ilillli,  ' 


I    -*. 


1 1 


^ 


296      Monte  72. 


CACOUNA. 


well  and  surely  rompletcrl  from  this  point  to  St.  John  and  II  ilifiix  and  the  Nev- 
Brunswick  Hail  way  is  being  jia-^hed  ftitherward  up  the  St.  John  Valley  (see  page 
4'J) 

This  domain  was  prantcd  hy  the  Tonipagnie  des  Indes  Ocridentales  to  the  Sieur 
de  la  Chcsnoye  in  lt)73.  It  is  said  that  its  name  is  derived  from  the  fact  that  ia 
former  years  great  droves  of  seals  (/rt///).s-?//rtr/»/.<)  frequented  the  shoals  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  making  a  remarkable  upnmr  at  night. 

A  persistent  attempt  has  been  made  to  call  this  town  Fraservilli>,  in  honor  of  the 
Friisers,  who  are  its  seigniors  The  numerous  Fra^ers  of  this  Province  met  at 
Quebec  in  18f)h  to  re-form  tlieir  ancient  Scoltisli  clan  organization,  and  to  name 
Provincial,  county,  and  jiarish  chieftains.  The  liead-chief  is  entitled  T/ie  Fraser, 
and  is  the  Hon.  .lohn  Fraser  de  Perry,  "  5Sth  descendant  of  Jules  de  Perry,  a  rich 
and  poNVi  rfnl  lord,  who  L'ave  a  sumptuous  feast  to  the  Kmperor  Charlemagne  and 
his  numerous  suite,  at  his  castle  in  Normandy,  in  the  8th  century  "  The  ,«olemu 
Scots  maintain  tliat  De  Perry  then  regaled  Charlemagne  with  strawberries  {/raises. 
In  the  French  language),  and  tliat  tlie  Emperor  was  so  greatly  pleased  that  he 
ordered  that  he  should  thenceforth  be  known  as  Fraiser  de  Berry,  and  from  him  the 
Clan  Fraser  traces  its  name  aud  descent. 

Cacouna  is  G  M.  from  Riviere  du  Lonp,  and  is  the  chief  summer  resort 
of  Cunada.  The  *  St.  Lawrence  flail  is  the  most  fasliionahle  hotel,  and 
accommodates  600  guests,  at  $2.50-3  a  day.  The  Mansion  House  charsres 
^$  1.50  a  day,  and  accommodates  150  guests.  There  are  several  summer 
boarding-houses  wiiose  rates  are  still  lower.  The  traveller  who  visits 
Cacouna  from  Riviere  du  Loup  must  be  on  his  guard  against  the  extortions 
of  the  carriage-drivers,  who  frequently  demand  exorbitant  fares. 

Twe  ity  years  ago  Cacouna  was  nothing;  it  is  now  filled  with  great  ho- 
tels and  boarding-houses,  and  adorned  with  many  summer  cottages.  It  is 
visited  by  thousands  of  Canadians,  and  also  by  many  Americans  "fuyant 
le  ciel  corrosif  de  New- York."  Here  may  be  seen  the  Anglo-Canadian 
girls,  who  are  said  to  combine  the  physical  beauty  and  strength  of  the 
English  ladies  with  the  vivacity  and  brilliancy  of  the  Americans.  The 
amusements  of  the  village  are  like  those  of  similar  places  farther  S., — 
eea-bathing  and  fishing,  driving,  and  balls  which  extend  into  the  .small 
hours.  The  beach  is  good,  and  the  river-views  from  the  lieiglits  are  of 
famed  beauty.  There  is  a  pretty  lake  back  among  the  hills,  where  many 
trout  are  found. 

The  great  specialties  of  Cacouna  are  its  pure  cool  air  and  brilliant  north- 
ern scenery.  It  is  sometimes  found  too  cold,  even  in  August,  during 
rainy  weather,  for  the  American  visitors,  who  then  hurry  away  in  crowds. 
The  peninsula  of  Cacouna  is  a  remarkable  mass  of  rock,  nearly  400  ft. 
high,  which  is  conin'Cted  with  the  mainland  by  a  low  isthmus.  Its  name 
was  given  by  the  Indians,  in  allusion  to  its  form,  and  signifies  "the  tur- 
tle." The  village  is  French,  aud  has  700  inhabitants,  and  Anglican,  Meth- 
odist, and  liouuui  Cath'dic  cUurches.  4^  M.  distant  is  the  populous  parish 
of  St.  Arsene,  and  8  M.  S.  is  St,  Modtste, 

From  Kivii're  du  Loup  the  steamer  runs  across  to  the  Saguenay  River, 
nnssin.g  withiu  3 --4  M=  of  Cucouna,  and  ruuuing  between  the  iJraudy  rots 
(1.)  and  Ked  Island  (see  page  252). 

The  Saguenay  £iver,  see  Uuute  73. 


and  the  Nev- 
lilley  (see  page 

es  to  the  8ieur 
16  fact  (hat  in 
i«  at  the  mouth 

1  honor  of  tlie 
ovince  met  at 
,  mid  to  niin.e 
'd  The  Fra^er, 
e  Horrv,  a  rich 
urk'iiiagnc  and 
'  Till-  soleiiia 
lerries  [/raises, 
leased  that  he 
d  from  him  the 


ammer  resort 
tie  hotel,  and 
'luuse  chiirges 
•eral  summer 
r  who  visits 
lie  extortions 
res. 

iMth  great  ho- 

")ttages.     It  is 

'ans  "  fuyant 

glo-Canadiau 

ength  of  the 
ans.  The 
farther  S., — 
ito  the  small 
leights  are  of 

where  many 


n 


I 


11  iant  north- 
gust,  during 

y  in  crowds, 
nearly  400  ft. 
s.  Its  name 
ies  *'the  tur- 
glican,  Meth- 

ulous  parish 


lenay  River, 
iJraudy  rots 


TTj'  ^oIJ^. 


^lt» 


.<-«■ 


E 


B 


c^iaf.jS^^.:::  *■ 


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ts 


(BTATTTTS   UILZ). 
•20 


46  Lnt. 


LleSH  SIILES 


(BTATTTTX   MIIJB). 
«  80 


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^-'   ■  ■'••   ■.,...' 


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SAGUENAY 


/  RIVER 


=St-is*, 


^^^m 


i^j^:^. 


OJT  THAT  PART 


or  THB 


M.Ime 


rji^  rsnsED  itr  rtrx 


SAGUENAY  BOATS. 


-^ 


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Ti 
Tl 
tu 

15 
Jo 
63 
iti 
us 
thi 
tio 


■n 


rei 
fill 
an 
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Al 
pa 
10( 
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tilt 
an  I 
Lo 
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pvc 
dis 
vis 
ern 


the 
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in  t 
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into 
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witl 
now 
rive 


THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER.        Route  73.      297 


73.   The  Saguenay  River. 


Steamers  leave  Quebec  for  Chicoutinii,  the  fartliest  port  on  the  Saguenay,  on 
Tuosday  ami  Friday,  at  7  am.  (.see  i)ag<;  21*1) :  and  for  lia  IT*  Bay  on  Wednesday, 
Tliursday,  and  Saturday.  They  reaeh  Tadousac  by  nightfall,  and  start  ou  the  re- 
turn from  Chicoutlnd  the  next  morning. 

Distances-  —  Quel)ec  to  Tadousac,  134  M. ;  Tado.  '"c  to  Riviere  St.  Marpuerite, 
15;  St.  Louis  IAkU,  19;  Riviere  aux  Canards.  23;  F^ittle  .Sa;<ueni»y  Ri>er,  2';  St. 
John's  Bay,  32;  Eternity  Bay.  41 ;  Trinity  Bay,  48;  Cape  Rou-:-,  .'j«  ;  Cape  East, 
63;  Cape  West,  tjS ;  St.  Alpliouse,  72  ;  St.  Fulgence,  Wo;  Cliicoutinii,  IdO.  This 
Itinerary  ia  based  on  that  of  the  ateanitililp  company  and  is  not  correct,  but  will  be 
u.seful  in  marki'ig  approximations  to  the  relative  distances  between  tiie  points  on 
the  river.  There  is  no  other  table  of  distances  accee  ible.  Inir.\y"H  Sailing  Direc- 
tions (precise  authority)  says  that  it  is  Go  M.  from  the  St.  I>awrenv!e  to  Chicoutimi. 

The  *♦  Saguenay  River  is  the  chief  tributary  of  the  Lower  St.  Law- 
rence, and  is  the  outlet  of  the  great  Lalte  St.  John,  into  which  11  rivers 
fall.  For  the  last  50  M.  of  its  course  the  stream  is  from  1  to  2^  M.  wide, 
and  is  bordered  on  both  sides  by  lofty  precipices  or'  syenite  and  gneiss, 
which  impinge  directly  on  the  shores,  and  are  dotted  with  stunted  trees. 
Along  their  slopes  are  the  deep  I'nes  of  glacial  striations,  telling  of  the 
passage  of  foimidable  icebergs  down  this  chasm.  The  bed  of  the  river  is 
100  fathoms  lower  than  that  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  difference  which  is 
sharply  marked  at  the  point  of  confluence.  The  shorcjs  were  stripped  of 
their  forests  by  a  great  fire,  in  1810,  but  there  are  large  tiUmbers  of  hemlock 
and  birch  trees  in  the  neighboring  glens.  The  river  is  frozen  from  the  St. 
Louis  Isles  to  Chicoutimi  during  half  the  year,  and  snow  remains  on  the 
hills  until  June.  The  awful  majesty  of  its  unbroken  mountain-shores,  the 
profound  depth  of  its  waterr,  the  absence  of  life  through  many  leagues  of 
distance,  have  made  the  Saguenay  unique  among  rivers,  .and  it  is  yearly 
visited  by  thousands  of  tourists  t'.s  one  of  the  chief  curiosities  of  the  West- 
ern World. 

'•  The  Saguenay  Is  not,  properly,  a  river.  It  i.<»  a  tremendouf!  chasm,  like  that  of 
the  .lordan  Valley  and  the  Dead  Sea,  cleft  for  60  M  through  the  heart  of  a  niountiiin 

wilderness No  magical  illusions  of  atmosphere  enwrap  the  scenery  of  this 

northern  river.  Everything  is  hard,  naked,  stern,  silent.  Dark-gray  cliffs  of  granitic 
gneiss  ri.se  from  the  pitch-black  w'lter  ;  firs  of  gloomy  green  arc  rooted  in  their  crev- 
ices and  fringe  their  summits  ;  loftier  ranges  of  a  dull  indigo  hue  show  themselves 
in  the  background,  and  over  all  bends  a  pale,  cold,  nnrthein  si  .  The  keen  air, 
which  bring-t  out  every  object  with  a  crystalline  distinctness,  even  contract?  the  di- 
mensions of  the  scenery,  diminishes  the  height  of  the  clitfs,  and  apparently  belittles 
the  niiijesty  of  the  river,  .so  that  the  first  feelinj.*  is  one  of  disappoints  ent.  Still,  it 
exercises  a  fascination  which  you  cannot  resist.  You  look,  and  look,  fettered  by  the 
fresh,  novel,  savage  stamp  which  nature  exhibits,  and  at  last,  as  in  St.  Peter's  or  at 
Niagara,  learn  from  the  character  of  the  .'separate  features  to  appreciate  the  gr.andeur 
of  the  whole Steadily  upwards  we  went,  the  windings  of  the  river  and  its  vary- 
ing breadth  —  from  ^  M.  to  ne.arly  2  M.  —  giving  r.s  a  shifting  succession  rf  tne 
grandest  pictures.  Shores  that  ^eemad  roughly  piled  together  out  of  the  fragments 
of  chaos  overhung  us,  --  gre  It  masses  of  rock,  gleaming  duskily  through  their  scanty 
drapery  of  evergreens,  here  lifting  long  irregular  walls  against  the  skv,  there  split 
into  huge,  fantastic  forma  by  deep  lateral  gorges,  up  which  we  saw  tiie  dark-blue 
crests  of  loftier  mountains  in  the  rear.  The  water  beneath  vs  was  black  as  night, 
with  a  pitchy  glaze  oa  its  surface ;  and  the  only  life  in  nil  the  aav:iire  solitude  \»ss, 

now  and  then,  the  back  of  a  white  porpoise,  in  some  of  the  deeper  coves The 

river  is  a  reproduction  —  truly  on  a  contracted  scale  —  of  the  fiords  of  the  Norwegian 

13* 


'*% 


li'fiil 


i-J 


t 


l 


4% 


298      Monte  73.        THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER. 

coast Thp  dnrk  mniintniri!",  th(>  trpiiiprninus  proripiros,  thp  fir  forpsfs,  etpn  the 

settlements  Ht  Ha  Ma  Hii.v  iiinl  I/Aiise  ■■>  TKuii  (('X(«'pt  that  the  lidiirics  iiiv  wliito  iii- 
Ptfiul  of  red)  -ire  as  coniplctcly  Norwe^'iaii  as  tlicy  can  be.  The  S^raiidinav'im  skip- 
pers who  come  to  Canada  all  notice  this  resemhlance,  and  luuuy  of  tliem,  1  learu, 
Pettle  here."     (HAVviin  'rAYUou.) 

♦'  From  Ha  Ha  ri;;ht  down  to  the  8t.  Lawrenre,  you  see  nothing  but  the  rold, 
black,  gloomy  Sugnenay,  rojiinij;  Ix'twccn  two  stridj^iit  lines  of  rocky  hills  tliat  rif^o 
steeply  from  the  water's  cdp-,  Thc>e  Idlls,  tli(ui;fh  steep,  lire  geierally  roughly 
rounded  in  sh»iie,  and  not  altnipt  or  faced  witli  precipices.  This  n.iikcs  the  nenery 
dilfer  from  that  with  which  it  lins  heen  often  compaied,  the  lioldest  of  the  fiords  of 
Norway.  Over  tlie  niirgcd  liills  of  the  I^iignenay  there  is  gei  erally  enoupli  of  enrth 
here  and  tliere  lodged  to  let  the  gray  ro(  k  lie  dotted  over  with  a  dark-grien  sprink- 
ling of  pine-trees.  iVrhaps  there  is  hardly  a  .-pot  on  the  h'tignenay,  whi(  h.  taken  by 
Itself,  would  not  lmi>ressany  lover  of  wild  nature  by  i,;  grandeur,  and  evensubliniity  ; 
but  after  sailing  for  70  miles  downwards,  passing  vo<  k  ,  hill  after  rocky  hill,  risit'gone 
beyond  the  other  in  monotonously  straight  lines  nloogside  of  \ou;  ....  after  vainly 
longing  for  some  hreak  in  these  twin  imi'i'isoniiig  vails,  which  might  allow  the  eyo 
the  relief  rd"  wandering  over  an  expanse  of  country,  — you  will  Ik  gin  to  compare  tho 

Saguenay  in  no  kin<lly  spirit  to  the  Uhine It  is  a  cold,  .  iviige,  inhuman  river, 

fit  to  take  rank  with  Stvx  and  .Acheron  ;  anil,  into  the  bargain,  it  is  dull.  For  the 
whole  70  ndles,  you  will  not  be  likely  to  see  any  livii  g  thing  on  it  or  near  it,  outside 
of  your  own  steamer,  not  a  house,  nor  a  field,  nor  a  sign  of  any  sort  that  living 
things  have  ever  I  een  there."     (\Vii:tk  ) 

"  Sunlight  and  clear  sky  are  out  of  |)Iace  over  its  black  waters.  Anything  which 
recalls  the  life  and  smile  of  nature  is  not  in  uni.'on  with  the  huge  naked  cliffs,  raw, 
cold,  and  silent  as  the  tombs.  An  Italian  sjiring  could  effect  no  change  in  the 
dt^adly,  rugged  iu«pect  ;  nor  does  winter  add  one  iota  to  its  moi.rnfiil  desolation.  It 
is  with  a  sense  of  relief  that  the  tourist  emerges  from  its  sullen  gloom,  and  looka 
back  uiion  it  as  a  kind  of  vault,  —  Nature's  farco|»liagiis,  where  lite  or  sound  seems 
never  to  have  entered.  Con  jjared  to  it  the  Dead  Sea  is  bloon.ing,  and  the  wildest 
ravines  look  co.^ey  and  smiling.  It  is  wild  without  the  least  variety,  and  grand 
apparently  in  sj^lte  of  itself  ;  whi!e  so  utter  is  the  solitude,  so  dreary  and  monoto- 
nous the  frown  of  its  great  black  walls  of  roik,  that  the  tourist  is  sure  to  get  impa- 
tient with  its  sullen  dead  reverse,  till  he  feels  aliriost  an  antijiathy  to  its  very  name. 
The  i^aguenay  seems  to  want  painting,  blowing  uji,  or  draining,  —  anything,  in 
short,  to  alter  its  morose,  quiet,  eternal  awe.  Talk  of  Lethe  or  the  Styx,— they 
must  have  been  puiling  Ijioeks  conijian  d  with  this  savage  river;  and  a  picnic  on  the 
banks  of  either  would  be  preferable  to  one  ou  the  banks  of  the  Saguenay."  {London 
Times.) 

On  Sept.  1,1535,  Tadousac  was  visited  by  the  worder-loving  Cartier,  with  three 
Ves.«els  He  saw  the  Ii.dians  fishing  oil  shore,  and  reported  that.  "  in  amending  the 
Saguenay,  you  reach  a  country  where  there  are  n  en  dressed  like  us,  who  live  in 
cities,  and  have  much  gold,  rubies,  and  copper."  The  liver  was  visited  b\  lloberval 
in  154?.  and  part  of  the  exp(  dition  was  lost.  Thenceforward  the  country  of  the 
Saguenay  was  explon  d  by  the  fur-traders  and  the  fearless  .lesuiis.  In  It  03  Tadou- 
pac  wa.s  visited  by  Chunii)lain,  around  whose  vessel  the  natives  crowded  in  their  canoes 
in  order  to  sell  or  barter  avny  tluir  peltiies.  J'even  years  later  a  .-olemn  and  beau- 
tiful scene  occurred  at  Point  la  Houle  (the  immense  promontory  which  is  seen  5 
M.  up-stream),  when  Champlain  and  Lescarliot  attended  the  great  council  of  the 
Monfaii  'inis.  They  were  received  with  dignified  counesy  by  the  Sagamore  Anada- 
bij.m  conducted   to   the   meeting  of  the  warriors,  where  several  grave  and 

eloijU  .eeches  were  made  while  the  pipe  of  peace  was  passed  around.     The 

.*  <A-  ...  s  at  that  time  numbered  9  tribes,  *2  of  whicdi  dweltmlong  the  river,  and 
i  ,  ■  ■  oenipied  the  vast  area  towards  Hudson's  Bay  and  the  land  of  the  Esqui- 

ti'RL.  .  U.J..'  last  Sagamore,  Simeon,  dieil  in  1849,  and  had  no  successsor,  and  the 
poor  remnant  of  the  nation  now  obtains  a  jii-ecarious  living  by  beggary,  or  has  with- 
drawn into  the  fastnesses  of  the  North.  The  jiresent  name  of  the  river  is  a  modifi- 
cation of  the  original  Indian  word  Snggishs^kuss,  which  means  "a  river  whose 
banks  are  precipitous.'' 

In  1671  the  heroic  and  self-abnegating  Jesuit,  Pere  de  Cre{iieul,  founded  the  mis- 
pion  at  lYidoiisiic,  wiiere  ue  reniaiiied  for  .iu  years,  passHig  the  wiiiters  lii  tiie 
wretched  huts  of  the  savages.    Before  chis  time  (in  16t31)  the  Fathers  Druiilettes  and 


its,  even  the 
I*'  wliitc  in- 
iiiv'im  hkip- 
iii,  1  learn, 

lit  the  roM, 
Ills  that  ri>-o 
illy  r()U(:hly 
I  thi'  K cmry 
the  fiords  of 
ijrh  oi'  «':irth 
;iTen  nprink- 
I'h.  taken  hy 
n.«ul'liii;ity  ; 
ill,ri8ii'ii()ne 
,  alter  vainly 
lUow  the  eyo 
eonipare  the 
miiian  river, 
uU.  For  tlie 
iir  it,  outi-ide 
,  that  living 

thinjr  which 

(d  eliffs,  raw, 

laiifje  in  the 

solation.     It 

ni,  and  looks 

sound  ceenis 

d  the  wildest 

,  and  grand 

(ind  nionoto- 

to  tjet  inipa- 

s  very  name. 

nytliing,  in 

tyx,—  they 

picnic  on  tlie 

"  {London 


,  with  three 

(eiidiiip  the 

who  live  in 

h\  lloherval 

nntrv  of  the 

It  03  Tadou- 

tlieir  canoes 

n  and  beau- 

ch  is  ^^een  5 

luncil  of  the 

more  Anada- 

1  grave  and 

ronnd.     The 

e  river,  and 

r  the  Ei^qui- 

-sor,  and  the 

or  has  with- 

[■  is  a  niodifi- 

river  whose 

dcd  the  mis- 
liters  in  tiiB 
uilkttes  and 


TADOUSAC. 


Route  73.      299 


Dahlon  hnd  asronded  the  Hror  to  Lake  St.  John  and  therp  had  baptized  many  Tn- 
di.iiix,  and  founded  the  mission  of  St.  Francois  X;ivier.  'I'he  Moiitai>;iiai.s  are  still 
In  the  (.'atholic  faith,  and  each  family  has  its  pr.'u er-book  and  breviary,  in  whidi 
they  are  able  to  read.  In  lOTl  Father  Alhanel  ascended  the  .**a(?iie!iay  from  Tadmi. 
Bac,  bv  order  of  li.ifndant  Mii,'iit,  and  passed  N'.  tu  Hudson's  H ly  hy  way  of  the 
great  lakes  of  .St  .(oliii  and  Mistassini.  The  country  about  the  llp|)cr  Si^uenay  wiH 
then  well  known  to  the  zealous  churchmen,  but  after  the  decline  of  the  missions  It, 
was  for>?otten.  About  U\  years  ago  the  iJanailian  government  had  it  re-explored  by 
efficient  offlcers  and  flii.  remote  region  is  now  being  occupied  by  French-Canadian 
hamlets.  The  chief  bixiness  on  the  river  U  tho  exportation  (if  lumber,  which  U 
shipped  from  Clucoutinii  in  immense  quantities. 

Tadousao  is  a  small  village,  prettily  situated  on  a  semicircular  terrace 
surrounded  with  mountains  and  frontinj^  on  a  small  harbor,  deep  and 
secure.  The  St.  Lawre'ico  is  here  about  24  M.  wide,  and  the  mountains 
of  the  S.  sliore  are  visilde,  while  on  clear  days  the  vit-w  inchides  the  wiiite 
villages  of  Cacouna  ami  Riviere  du  Loup.  The  *  Tadovn  c  Hotel  (S2.oO  a 
day)  :S  a  spacious  establishment  on  the  bluff  over  the  beach.  It  was 
founded  in  1HU5  ')y  a  joint-stock  compiuiy,  and  has  been  successful.  The 
sea-bathing  is  very  good,  although  tlie  wat;'.r  is  cold,  and  sea-trout  are 
caught  off'  the  shore.  The  old  buildings  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
are  near  the  hotel,  and  on  the  lawn  ijcforc  them  is  a  battery  of  antiquated 
4-poundor3.  E.  of  the  hotel  is  the  old  *  chapel  of  the  Jesuit  mission, 
which  was  erected  in  174'3  on  the  s  te  of  a  still  more  ancient  church.  Tho 
summer  cottages  are  near  the  shore,  and  are  cheerful  little  buildings.  The 
Earl  of  Di'fferin,  late  (rovornor-dencral  of  Canada,  erected  a  handsome 
house  here.  The  scenery  of  the  landward  environs  is  descrihed  in  the 
Indian  word  Tndousac,  which  means  knobs  or  mamelons. 

"Tadousac  is  placed,  like  a  nest,  in  the  midst  of  the  granite  rocks  that  surround 
the  mouth  of  the  .Saguenay.  The  cliapels  and  the  buildings  of  the  post  occupy  the 
edj;e  of  a  pretty  plateau,  on  the  sunnnit  of  an  escarped  height  So  perched,  these 
edifices  dominate  the  nairow  strip  of  tine  sand  which  sweeps  around  at  theii-  feet. 
On  the  r.  the  view  plunges  into  the  profound  waters  of  the  sombre  Sairuenay  ;  in 
front,  it  is  lost  in  the  immense  St.  Lawrence.  All  around  an;  mountaiiis  covered 
with  fir-trees  and  birches.  Through  the  o[>ening  which  the  mighty  river  has  cut 
through  the  rock,  the  reefs,  the  islands,  and  south  shores  are  seen.  It  is  a  delicious 
place"'   (T.vciiE.) 

4  M.  E.  of  Tadousac  Is  the  harbor  of  Moulin  d  Baurle,  where  are  largo  beds  of 
white  marble.  Charlevoix  anchored  here  in  the  Ckamenu  (in  1700),  and  was  so  en- 
thusiastic over  the  discovery  that  he  reported  that  "  all  this  country  is  full  of  mar- 
ble." Pointe  Rouge,  the  S.  E.  promontory  liefore  Tadousac,  is  composed  of  an  in- 
tensely hard  red  granite  The  shore  extends  to  the  N  E.  to  the  famous  shooting- 
grounds  of  Mille  Vaches,the  trout-stream  of  the  Laval  River,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay 
post  of  Detsiamitis  (see  page  233). 

In  the  year  1599  a  trading-post  was  established  at  Tadousac  by  Pontgravt^  and 
Chauvin,to  whom  this  country  hatl  been  granted.  They  built  stoieliou,«es  and  huts, 
and  Icfc  16  men  to  gather  in  the  furs  from  the  Indians,  but  several  of  these  died 
and  the  rest  tied  into  the  forest.  Two  subsequent  attempts  within  a  few  years  ended 
as  (iisastrously.  In  162R  the  place  was  captured  by  Admiral  Kirke,  and  in  1(532  his 
brother  died  liere.  In  1658  the  lordship  of  this  uistrict,was  given  to  the  Sieur  De- 
niaux,  with  the  dominion  over  "^he  country  between  Eboulements  and  Cape  Cor- 
morant. Three  years  later  the  place  was  captui*ed  by  the  Iroquois,  and  the  garrison 
w.'is  nia.s.sscred.  In  1690  three  French  frigJitos,  bearing  the  royal  treasure  to  Que'oec, 
were  caased  in  here  by  Sir  William  Phipps's  New-England  fleet.  They  formed  bat- 
teries ou  tue  Tadousivc  shores,  but  the  Americans  were  uuuble  to  get  their  veuseli 


)! Hi   V; 


i 


'^^ 


I 


300      Ronf.c  7,1 


CniCOUTIMI. 


\S  '• 


I 


p 


i^'  ^  \ 


up  throuffh  the  owlft  runrntB,  ani  thff  French  flwt  wan  PAV«»d.  The  t«»(Hnjt-po»t 
anil  nli^^^'ion  v/vn>  kt-pt  up  with  ndvinitHjfi".  Chnrlcvoix  vi^it^;<^  the  plac*'  hi  IT'iO,  and 
wi>h:  "  Tim  nn'i'f^'^'t  l'»rl  itf  nnr  (Ifoj^rapht-rs  lavv  hiTf  placed  a  Town,  but  wliero 
th«'n>  n«!V«'r  wan  hut  oni;  Frfmh  h<)UM>,  and  Honu-  huts  of  Hava(j;eH  who  tanu'  then'  hi 
the  TlnM'  «>f  th<'  Trade  and  who  <arii«'d  awav  thiir  Huts  or  lioothn,  when  thi-y  went 
away  ;  and  thm  was  tho  whol(>  niattiT.  It  is  true  that  this  Port  has  ht><>n  a  Inn^ 
Time  the  Resort  of  ail  the  Havape  Nations  of  f>u>  North  and  Kast,  and  that  the 
Frenrh  resort^'d  thither  as  soon  as  tlie  Navljcation  was  free  hoth  from  friinrc  and 
Cnniufa ;  the  Missionaries  also  made  Use  of  tlie  Opportunity,  and  eanie  to  trnih'  here 
for  Heaven.  And  when  the  Trade  was  over,  the  Merchants  retnrn»'d  to  their  llr>nieit, 
the  Savages  took  the  Way  to  rheir  Viilaj^es  or  ForeHts,  and  the  Gospel  Labourers  fol- 
lowed the  last,  to  conipleat  their  InstructionH." 

Tho  stPiimor  leivv(>s  Tiidousac  duriiijr  the  evening,  iirnl  asopnds  the  river 
by  night,  when,  if  the  sky  is  unclouded,  there  iirc  beimtifnl  ell'ects  of  stnr- 
liglit  or  moonlight  on  the  frowning  sliore«.  Tlic  ri-turn  trip  down  tho  river 
is  mnde  tho  next  day,  and  tlic  full  jtowor  of  the  !»cenery  !«*  then  felt.  This 
doHicription  of  the  river  begins,  therefore,  at  the  head  of  navigation,  and 
follows  the  river  downward,  detaching  the  ddtour  into  ila  Ha  Bay,  for  the 
sake  of  continuity. 

Chicoutimi  (^ood  hotel)  is  the  eapitnl  of  rhicontiini  County,  and  has 
1.035  inhal)itaiits.  It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Saguenay, 
and  is  the  great  shipping-point  of  the  liunbor  distriets.  Over  40  chips 
load  here  every  year,  most  of  them  being  squarely  built  Scandinavian 
vessels.  The  trade  amounts  to  .S  ,"500.000  a  year,  and  is  under  the  control 
of  Senator  Price  of  Quebec,  who  has  fine  villas  at  rhicoutimi  and  Tadousac, 
and  is  knoM'n  as  *  the  King  of  the  Saguenay."  The  powerful  house  of 
Price  T^ntthers  tS:  Co.  owns  most  of  the  Sairnonay  country,  and  has  estab- 
lishnuiuts  on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  and  in  England.  Their  property  in 
mills,  buildings,  and  vessels  is  of  in:mense  value.  Over  the  steamboat- 
pier  is  the  new  college,  built  of  stone,  about  an  open  quadrangle.  Near 
by  are  the  cathedral  and  the  convent  of  the  Good  Shepherd.  Beyond  the 
town  the  court-house  is  seen,  on  the  dark  slope  of  a  high  hill;  and  the 
white  ribbon  of  the  *  CJiicoutimJ.  Fnlh  is  visible  to  the  1.  The  Chicoutimi 
River  here  falls  40  -  50  ft.,  just  before  entering  the  Saguenay.  This  stream 
affords  fine  sp»rt  for  the  fisherman,  and  contains  great  numbers  of  fish  re- 
sembling the  land-locked  salmon,  or  grilse. 

Chicoutimi  signifies  "  deep  water,"  and  was  so  called  by  the  Northern  Indians  who 
here  first  encountered  the  profound  depths  of  the  Sa}?uenay .  There  is  fine  fishing  about 
the  falls  and  the  adjacent  rapids  (permission  must  he  obtained,  and  is  often  granted  in 
courtesy  to  strangers).  The  ancient  .lesuit  chapel  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  ('ompany'f^ 
post  were  situated  near  the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers,  and  within  the  ehapol 
(whioli  remained  until  recently)  was  the  tomb  of  Father  Cocquart,  the  last  of  the 
Jesuit  missionaries.  A  strong  mission  was  founded  here  in  1727,  by  Father  Labrosse, 
and  many  Indians  were  converted. 

St.  Anne  du  Sar/uenai/  is  a  village  of  200  inhabitants,  on  the  high  bank 
of  the  river  opposite  Chicoutimi.  Lake  St.  .John  is  about  60  M.  W.  of 
Chicoutimi,  and  is  reached  by  a  good  road,  which  passes  through  Jon- 
qui^re,  Kenogami,  and  Hebertville  (1,200  inhabitants).  The  Rapkh  of 
Terres  Eumjmes,  on  the  Saguenay  River,  are  9  M.  above  Chicoutimi. 


LAKE  ST.  JOHN. 


Houte  73.        301 


mdinpt-poit 
ill  17*20,  and 
,  but  wliero 
mi'  thcro  In 
II  tln'y  went 
licvn  II  lon^ 

lltl    tllllt    ttlH 

Frntirr  and 

0  trniU'  hei« 
heir  llmiu'S, 
iljourvrs  foi- 
ls tho  river 
icta  of  stnr- 
•11  tho  river 

felt.  Tiiia 
n;atlon,  and 
iay, tor  the 

y,  and  has 

-or  40  ^hips 
andinavian 
tlie  cntiti'ol 

1  Tadousac, 
il  house  of 

lias  ostab- 
property  in 
steanibont- 
iXle.  Near 
Royond  the 
ill ;  and  the 
Cliicoutimi 
Phis  stream 
of  fish  re- 


Tndians  who 
fishiiiM;  about 
;en  granted  in 
ly  ('oinpanyV 
the  chiivicl 
le  last  of  tlio 
her  Labrosse, 


high  bank 
0  M.  W.  of 
rough  Jon- 
;  Ropuh  of 
Chicoutimi. 


Therp  nrp  luimorotm  rapidn,nnd  far  ahovfi  come  the  mij»hty  rusli  and  uproar 
of  the  (iiaiid  iM'TJiar^e  and  IN'tit  Df'charge.  'I'iipse  empty  tiie  waters  of 
the  lake,  and,  swee|)iii^  around  a  rugged  i»lutid  with  terrilic  und  unuatiiral 
force,  unite  und  rage  and  contend. 

A  railway  runs  from  Quebec  lUO  M.  N".  to  Lake  St.  John,  where  there  is 
a  large  summer-hotel,  at  Jinbervnl.  The  steamer  Vvrihitncn  makes  daily 
trips  around  this  remote  northern  lake,  which  is  2t>  by  20  M.  in  area,  and 
receives  the  mile-wide  rivers,  Mistassini,  I'erihonca,  and  Ashiiapnntu- 
chouan,  each  llowing  200  M.,  from  the  Hudson's  IJay  wafer-shed.  The 
lake  is  surrounded  by  French  (!atholic  hamlets,  with  tin-clad  church-spires. 
The  famous  and  gamey  fish  called  wiuanishe  abound  in  these  waters,  with 
trout  and  pickerel,  perch  and  pike. 

I.ako  St.  John  was  dlscoverpd  in  1647  by  Father  Duqupn,  the  missionary 

at  TadoHsac,  who  was  tho  Ih'st  Kiiropean  to  ascend  the  Sa|,5ueiuiy  to  its  nouree. 
It  was  then  called  by  tlie  Indiana  Pirouaifann,  or  Fiat  L.iko.  Several  Jesuit  niis- 
eionarlca  soon  passed  by  this  route  to  the  >rreat  Nekouba,  where  all  the  nortliern 
tribes  were  wont  to  meet  in  annual  fairs  ;  and  in  lt;72  Fatlier  Albanel  advanced  IVom 
Tadousac,  by  Laite  .St.  John  and  Luke  Mista-ssini,  to  tlie  Mer  ilu  NonJ,  or  Hud- 
eon's  Bay.  A  Catholic  mission  waj<  tVMinded  on  the  lake,  at  Metabetciiuan,  and 
posts  of  the  Hudson's  Hay  Company  were  also  estaidisiicd  here.  Tlie  lake  is  of 
great  area,  and  nreives  the  watJTS  of  8  large  rivers,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  .Mi.s- 
tHssini,  flowing  df)wn  200  M.  from  Lnki-  Mlstaf.'<ini,  which  is  76  X  3(*  M.  hi  area. 
The  water  is  shallow,  and  is  ngitited  into  furious  wliite  waves  by  the  N.  W.  winds. 
To  tho  N.  and  W.  is  u  vast  region  of  low  vole.inic  mountains  and  dreary  lands 
of  low  sprUH!  forests.  Tho  soil  along  the  lake-shores  is  said  to  be  a  fertile  allu- 
Tium,  ciipable  of  nonrishing  a  den.sc  population  ;  but  the  winters  are  long  and  ter- 
rible. 20  years  ago  there  were  no  settlements  here  except  the  Hudson  s  Bay  posts  ; 
now  there  are  numerous  villages,  the  chief  of  which  are  Rol)erval,  Riviere  a  I'Ours, 
and  St.  Jerome. 

Mr.  I'riee,  M.  P.,  states  that  a  mis.slonary  has  recently  di.spovered,  higii  upon  the 
Sagueiiay  (or  on  the  Mistassini),  an  ancient  French  fort,  with  intrencluiients  and 
stockades.  On  the  inside  were  two  cannon,  and  several  brokiiu  tombstones  dating 
from  the  early  part  of  the  16th  century.  It  is  surmised  that  these  remote  memorials 
mark  the  last  resting-pliice  of  tlie  Sieur  Uobervil,  Governor-General  of  Canada,  who 
(it  is  supposed)  sailccl  up  the  Saguenay  in  l.")-!^,  and  was  never  heard  from  after- 
wards. The  Robervals  were  favorites  of  King  Francis  1.,  who  called  one  of  them 
"  the  Petty  King  of  Vicmen,"  and  the  other,  "  the  Gendarme  of  Hannibal."  They 
were  both  lost  on  their  last  expedition  to  America. 

In  descending  the  Saguenay  from  Chicoutimi  to  Ha  Ha  Bay,  the  scenery 
is  of  remarkable  boldness,  but  is  less  startling  than  the  lower  reaches  of 
the  river.  Soon  after  leaving  the  village  the  steamer  passes  the  pretty 
villa  and  the  Anglican  church  pertaining  to  Senator  Price.  Below  this 
point  is  a  line  of  hills  of  marly  clay;  and  Cape  St.  Kran(;ois  soon  rears  its 
dark  crest  on  the  1.  bank.  The  river  widens  rapidly,  and  the  hamlet  of 
St.  Fuhjence  is  seen  on  the  1.,  near  Pointe  Roches.  Beyond  the  ponderous 
walls  of  Ilifjh  Point  is  another  broad  reach,  with  small  islets  under  the  1. 
bank.  The  steamer  now  runs  between  the  frowning  promontories  of  Cape 
East  and  Cape  West,  and  passes  the  entrance  to  Ha  Ha  Bay. 

*Ha  Ha  Bay  runs  7  M.  S.  W.  from  the  Saguenay,  and  is  ascended  be- 
tween lofty  and  serrated  ridges,  bristling  with  sturdy  and  stunted  trees. 
So  broad  and  stately  is  this  mlet  tlrat  it  is  said  that  the  early  French 
explorers  ascended  it  in  the  belief  that  it  was  the  main  river,  and  the 
name  originated  from  their  exclamations  on  reach'ng  the  end,  either  of 


il 


.•  Il 


m 


■  •r 


302      Ji(mte  7S. 


IIA   IIA   BAY. 


\  •' 


nmusomeut  at  tln'lr  mistnko  or  of  plensurc  nt  tli«  l>o(iiitiful  nppPnnmrG  of 
tin?  ineadows.  Al'f<'»'  running;  for  ^^•vL'nll  miles  botwecti  tli«  tvnuit'd  clifTs 
of  Cape  West  (oil  tho  r. )  niitl  the  op[>osite  ritl^'c-,  tlie  steanu-r  enters  n 
wide  liaveii  whose  shores  consist  of  open  intervale-lund,  hacked  hy  tall 
hhie  lieights.  Tho  entrance  is  4  M.  h^ng,  1  M.  wide,  and  100  fathoms 
deep,  and  tho  haven  can  be  reached  by  sliips  ot  tho  Uno  without  difliciilty. 
It  is  expected  that  fhi»  bay  will  be  tiio  fp*ent  port  of  **thc  hyperborean 
Latin  nation"  which  is  fast  settiinj^  th«;  I'pper  Miipticnay  and  Lnke  St. 
John  country.  Lar^e  quantities  of  lumber  are  loaded  here  ufiou  British 
and  Scandinavian  ships,  and  a  flourishing  trade  is  carried  on  in  tho 
autumn  by  sending  farm-produce  and  blueberries  to  Quebec,-  ne  latter 
being  packed  in  coHin-Hhai)ed  l)oxes  and  sold  for  iJ0-4()  cents  a  bushel. 

Tlie  steamer  touches  at  Hi.  Aljfhuiist  (llagolvilk),  a  small  Kreiich  village, 
with  a  church  and  a  comtortable  hotel.  Culushes  run  from  the  pmr  to 
St.  AUxis  (Cirundi;  IJaie),  JJ  M.  oil",  around  the  bay,  crossing  the  Jiivi  re  a 
Mars,  famous  for  it»  Kalmou-lisheries  (rights  uu»y  easily  be  boug.it  or 
leased).  3  M.  from  the  bay,  near  the  falls  of  Mars  iiiver,  are  the  three 
Gravel  Lakes,  famous  for  iuunense  and  delicious  red  trout.  The  mail-road 
is  prolonged  frou>  St.  Ali-xis.  through  the  iuiiuhai)itcd  wilderuesa  of  the 
Crown  Lauds,  to  St.  L'rbaiu  and  St.  Tuuls  Bay  (see  page  21)2). 

♦•  The  long  Hno  of  sullen  hills  had  fullen  away,  and  the  morning  «un  i«hone  warm 
on  wbiit  in  a  fricnillier  ( liniato  wouiil  have  been  a  ver^'  lovely  lamlsra|ie.  The  lay 
was  an  irregular  oval,  with  siunes  tliat  rofe  in  liohl  lint  not  lofty  heights  on  one 
Hide,  while  on  tiie  other  lay  a  narrow  plani  with  two  villaRes  elingitifi:  about  the  road 
that  followed  the  creMent  beach,  and  lifting  each  the  plender  tin-rlaU  F}>ire  of  ita 
church  to  uparkle  in  the  sun.  At  the  head  of  tlie  hay  was  a  nionntainoiis  tuji,  and 
along  its  wat«'rs  were  nlas^es  of  rocks,  gayly  iiaintcd  with  llcliens  and  Btained  with 
metallic  tints  of  orange  and  scarlet."     lIowr.Li.s.) 

21  M.  from  Ila  IIii  Bay  is  Lnr  n  la  Bdle  Tniite, 
and  beyond  is  the  Ureat  Ila  Ha  Lake,  among  the  mountains,  with  hold  capes  en- 
circling  forests,  and  a  pretty  island.  (!  M.  Irom  Belle  Truite  is  the  Little  Ha  Ha 
Lake,  on  wliose  shore  is  a  stupendous  clitf  nearly  2,<H'0  ft  high  The  blue  peaks  of 
tho  St.  Margaret  M/s.  are  about  30  M.  from  Ha  Ha  Bay,  and  sweep  from  Lake  St. 
John  to  Hudson's  Bay.  Carriages  may  betaken  from  Kt.  AlpliouBe  to  Chicoutimi 
(12  M.),  and  for  longer  excursions  toward  Lake  St.  John. 

After  pas.sing  the  dark  chasm  of  Ha  Ha  Bay,  Cape  East  is  seen  on  the  I., 
throwing  its  serrated  ledges  far  out  into  the  stream,  and  cutting  off  the 
retrospective  view.  Rugged  palisades  of  syenite  line  the  shores  on  both 
sides.  **  The  procession  of  the  pine-clad,  rounded  heights  on  either  shore 
began  shortly  after  Ha  Ha  Bay  had  disappeared  behind  a  curve,  and  it 
hardly  ceased,  save  at  one  point,  before  the  boat  re-entered  the  St.  Law- 
rence. The  shores  of  the  river  are  almost  uninhabited.  The  hills  rise 
from  the  water's  edge ;  and  if  ever  a  nan*ow  vale  divides  them,  it  is  but 
to  open  drearier  solitudes  to  the  eye.'^  Just  before  reaching  Cape  Rouge 
(1.  bank)  the  ravine  of  Vescente  des  Femmes  opens  to  the  N.,  deriving  its 
lingular  name  from  a  tradition  that  a  party  of  Indians  were  starving,  in 
the  back=conntrv,  and  sent  their  squaw?  for  hMn.  who  descended  to  tho 
river  through  tliitj  wild  gorge  and  secured  assistance. 


ETERNITY  BAY. 


Jimite  73.      303 


irMtire  of 
li't'd  clifTs 

enters  n 
;il  hy  tJiU 
)  fiit\i()in9 
(UnicnUy. 
pdrboroan 

Lnke  St. 
on  British 
on  in  the 
lie  latter 
busUel. 
ch  village, 
;lie  l)ier  to 
5  Jtirr  re  a 
boui;.it  or 
e  tbe  three 
t'uwiil-road 
itiijti  of  tlie 


iihone  irnrm 
i,i>.  The  I  ay 
ights  on  one 

out  the  roiui 
Fjiii  t'  of  it» 
(1118  toji,  and 

Btaincd  with 


d  cnprs  en* 
,iitU'  lla  Ila 
l)iiip  pciiks  of 
■(ini  hako  St. 
to  Cbicoutiml 


en  on  the  h, 
ttiiig  otr  the 
ores  on  both 
either  shore 
urve,  and  it 
he  St.  Law- 
e  hills  rise 
im,  it  is  but 
Cape  Roupe 
deriving  its 
starving,  in 
nded  to  the 


On  the  r.  bank  is  •  Le  Tuhhnu^  a  clifl!'  i)00  ft.  high,  whose  riverwanl 
face  contains  u  broiid  sheet  of  dark  linicstonf,  000  X  300  ft.  in  area,  so 
Btnootli  and  straiglit  as  to  suggest  a  vast  canvas  prepared  for  u  picture. 
Still  farther  down  (r.  i»Miik)  is 

"  *  Statue  Point,  when',  at  about  1,000  feet  above  the  wnter,  a  hngo, 
roui^h  (lotliic  arch  gives  entrance  to  u  cave,  in  which,  i\n  yet,  tiic  foot  of 
man  has  never  trodden.  liofore  the  entrance  to  this  black  aperture,  a 
gig:uUic  rock,  like  the  statue  of  some  ilead  Titan,  once  stood.  A  few 
years  ago,  during  the  winter,  it  gave  way,  and  the  monstrous  statue  came 
crashing  down  through  the  ice  of  the  Saguenay,  an<l  left  bare  to  view  the 
entrance  to  the  cavern  it  had  guarded  perliaps  for  ages." 

The  steamer  soon  passes  Cape  Triinty  on  the  r.  l)ank,  and  runs  In 
close  to  **  Eternity  Bay,  which  is  a  narrow  cove  between  the  majestic 
clilfs  of  Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Kternity.  The  water  is  150  fatiioms  deep, 
and  the  clid's  descend  abruptly  into  its  profoundest  parts.  *  Cape  Trinity 
consists  of  three  vast  suporimposetl  precipices,  each  of  which  is  6-000 
ft.  high,  on  whoso  faces  are  seen  two  remarkable  profiles.  The  echo  in 
the  bay  is  wonderful,  and  is  usually  tested  by  discharging  ;i  gun  or  blow- 
ing a  whistle.  (In  recent  mai)S  and  descri|ttions  the  luune  of  Kternity  has 
been  given  to  the  N.  cape,  and  Trinity  to  the  other.  This  is  not  correct, 
for  the  N.  capo  was  named  La  Tr'uiit^  by  the  Jesuits  on  account  of  its 
union  of  three  vast  sections  into  one  mountain.  It  is  known  by  that  name 
among  the  old  pilots  and  river-people.  The  Editor  has  substituted  the 
correct  names  in  the  ensuing  quotations.) 

"  The  masterpiece  of  the  Saguonay  is  the  majesty  of  Its  two  grandest  biilwarks, 
—  Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Eternity,  —  enormous  masses  of  rock,  1 /tOO  feet  liifih, 
rising  sheer  out  of  the  black  water,  and  jiUtinj,'  forward  into  it  so  as  to  shelter  a  lit- 
tle hay  of  the  river  hetween  their  f^looniy  portaN,  In  the  sublimity  of  their  height 
and  steepness,  and  in  the  he.iutit'al  etleet  against  the  rock  of  the  pine-trees  which 
here  an(i  there  gain  a  dizzy  footliold,  nestlinj;  trustfnlly  into  every  '  :  How  on  the 
face  of  the  tremendous  precipice,  these  capes  can  Iwirdly  be  surpassed  '  y  .ny  river- 
scene  in  the  world."    (Wiutk.) 

"Suddenly  the  boat  rounded  the  corner  of  the  three  steps,  each  500  ft.  hij!;h,  in 
which  Cape  Trinity  climbs  from  the  river,  and  crept  in  under  the  naked  side  of  tho 
awful  clilt.  It  is  sheer  rock,  springing  from  the  black  water,  and  .«^"etching  upward 
with  a  Weary,  effort- like  aspect,  in  long  impulses  of  stone  marked  by  deep  seama 
from  space  to  space,  till,  1,500  ft.  in  air,  its  vast  brow  beetles  forward,  and  frowns 

with  a  scattering  fringe  of  pines The  rock  fully  justitics  itsattributive  height 

to  the  eye,  which  follosvs  the  upward  rush  of  the  mighty  acclivity,  steep  after  steep, 
till  it  wins  the  doud-capt  sunuuit,  when  the  measureless  mass  seems  to  swing  ami 
swuy  overhead,  and  the  nerves  tremble  with  the  same  terror  that  besets  him  who 
liiolia  downward  from  the  verge  of  a  lofty  precipice.  It  is  wholly  grim  and  stern  ; 
no  touch  of  beauty  relieves  the  austere  majesty  of  that  presence.  At  the  foot  of 
Cape  Trinity  the  water  is  of  unknown  depth,  and  it  spreads,  a  black  expanse,  in  the 
rounding  hollow  of  shores  of  unimaginable  wildness  and  desol  ttion,  and  issues 
again  in  its  river's  course  around  the  t)aHe  of  Cape  Eternity.  'I  ids  is  yet  loftier 
than  the  sister  cliff,  but  it  slopes  gently  backward  from  the  stream,  and  from  foot  to 
crest  it  is  heavily  clotiied  with  a  forest  of  pines.  The  woods  that  hitherto  have 
shagged  the  hills  with  a  stunted  and  meagre  growth,  showing  long  stretches  scarred 
by  tire,  now  assume  astutely  siz«>,  .-ind  a.s,semhle  themselves  compactiy  upon  the  side 
of  t'le  iiinuntain.  setting  t'leir  serriel  stenH  one  rink  ahove  another,  till  the  siunmit 
iBcrowued  uitU  tiic  iiuws  of  tiielr  dui'k  gieeu  plumes,  dense  auj  soft  and  beautiful; 


J 


t  S 


1' 


'I 


3C-1      Route  73. 


ETERNITY  BAY. 


f 


B^il'       '  '    ' 


SO  that  the  spirit,  ptrturhpcl  hy  the  ppertnrle  of  the  other  cllfF,  Is  onlmpd  and  as- 
BUU|;t;(i  )iy  the  scn'iic  ^niinlciir  oC  tliis  "     (IIu\Vki.i,»"s  A   Cliatiic  Ar(/ii(iinl(inri .) 

*'  TIh's*'  Hwfiil  clill's.  iiliiiitcd  ill  wator  iicarly  a  tiiousand  tVct  dtcp,  iiini  >;Mariii^tinto 
the  viTy  sky,  fViriii  tlic  Kiitcway  to  a  ruf^gcd  valloy, 'trotcliinn  liiland,  and  coviTed 
witli  th«'  darii  priiiii'val  I'on'st  of  tin'  Nortli.     I  doubt  wlielln-r  a  suliliimT  picturo 

of  the  wildcriK's.s  if!  to  tte  found  on  this  rontincnt Th«!  wail  of  dun-t dlori'd 

Fyenitic  granite,  riidjed  witii  vertical  streaio*  of  Ijlatk,  liung  for  u  moment  dlrcrtly 
over  our  iieads,  us  liigli  us  tliree  Trinity  spires  atop  of  one  unotlier.  \\  estwurd,  the 
wall  ran  inland,  projecting  lia,stion  utter  l)astion  of  inaecessil)le  rock,  over  tlie  dark 
forcNts  in  tiie  hed  of  the  valley."     (IUyard  Taylor.) 

"  'I'lie  wild  scenery  of  the  river  culminates  at  a  little  inlet  on  the  rigiit  hank  he- 
tween  (^ajies  Trinity  and  Kten.ity.  Than  these  two  dreadful  headlands  nothing  can 
lie  imagined  more  grand  and  imi)res.>-ive.  For  one  lirief  moment  the  rugged  eliarar- 
t'!r  of  the  river  is  partly  softened,  and,  looking  l)ack  into  the  deep  valle.\  lietween  the 
capes,  the  land  has  an  aspect  of  life  and  mild  luxuriance  which,  though  not  rich, 
at  least  seems  so  in  <'omparisoii  with  the  grievous  awful  harreniiess.  ("ape  Eternity 
on  this  side  towards  the  landward  opening  is  pretty  tliickly  clothed  witli  fir  and  liirrii 
mingled  together  in  a  color  contrast  whicli  is  lieautiful  enougli,  es|>ecially  where  tlie 
roeks  show  out  among  them,  with  their  little  cascades  and  waterfalls  like  strips  of 
silver  shining  in  the  sun.  Jhit  Cape  Trinity  well  heconies  its  nan;c,  and  is  the  reverse 
of  all  this.  It  seems  to  frown  in  gloomy  indignation  on  itslirother  for  tlie  weakness  it 
betrays  in  allowing  anything  like  life  or  verdure  to  shield  its  wild,  uncouth  deformity 
of  strength.  Cape  Trinity  certainly  sliows  no  sign  of  relaxing  in  this  respect  from 
its  deep  savage  grandeur.  It  is  one  tremendons  clilT  of  limestone,  more  tlian  1,500 
fet>t  high,  and  inclining  forward  more  than  200  feet,  l)rosv-lieating  all  l>eneath  It, and 
eeeming  as  if  at  any  moment  it  would  fall  and  overwhelm  the  deep  black  stream 
which  Hows  so  eokl  and  motionless  down  below.  Iligli  up,  on  its  rough  gr.ay  brows, 
a  tew  stunted  pines  show  like  bristles  their  scathed  white  arms,  giving  an  awful 
Weird  aspect  to  the  mass,  blaiudied  here  and  there  by  the  temptssts  of  ages,  stained 
and  discolored  by  little  waterfills  in  blotchy  and  decaving  spots.  Unlike  Niagara, 
and  all  other  of  God's  great  works  in  nature,  one  does  not  wish  for  silence  or  soli- 
tude here.  Companionship  becomes  doubly  necessary  in  an  awful  solitude  like  this." 
( London  Tinirs.^ 

\Vhen  the  F/j/ms;  Fis/i  ascended  the  river  with  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  his  suite, 
one  of  her  heavy  *)8-pounders  was  fire<l  otT  near  Cape  Trinity.  ''  For  the  space  of  half 
a  minute  or  so  after  the  discharge  there  was  a  dead  silence,  and  then,  as  if  the  report 
and  concussion  were  hurled  liack  upon  the  docks,  the  echoes  came  down  crash  upon 
cra.xh.  Tf,  seemed  as  if  the  rocks  and  crags  had  all  sprung  into  life  under  the  tre- 
mendous din,  and  as  if  each  was  firing  BS-pounders  full  upon  us,  in  sharp,  crushing 
volleys,  till  at  last  they  grew  ho'irser  and  hoarser  in  their  anger,  and  retreated,  bellow- 
ing slowly,  carrying  tlie  tale  rf  invaded  solitude  from  hill  to  hill,  till  all  the  distant 
mountains  seemed  to  roar  and  groan  at  the  intrusion." 

St.  John's  Bay  (r.  bank)  is  6  M.  belcv  Eternity  Bay,  and  is  shallow 
enougli  to  afTord  an  ancliovage  for  shipping.  It  is  2  M  wide  and  3  M.  long, 
and  receive.s  the  St.  John  River.  At  its  end  is  a  small  hamlet,  situated  in 
a  narrow  vailey  which  appears  beautiful  in  contrast  with  the  surrounding 
cliffs.  Far  inland  arp  seen  the  blue  peaks  of  distant  mountains.  In  the 
little  cove  opposite  is  the  white  thread  of  a  lofty  cascade. 

The  Little  Sagiienay  River  (r.  bank)  is  4  M.  below,  and  flows  down  out 
of  a  bristling  wilderness  where  are  famous  Indian  huntir^g-grounds  and 
pools  filled  with  trout.  A  short  distance  below  are  the  islets  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Riviere  aux  Canards.  The  steatiier  tlien  sweeps  by  the  St.  Louis 
Isle,  a  granite  rock,  ^  M.  long,  covered  with  firs,  spruces,  and  birch-trees. 
There  is  1,200  ft.  depth  of  water  around  this  islet,  in  which  are  multitudes 
of  salmon-trout.  On  the  r.  bank  are  the  massive  promontories  of  Cape 
Victoria  and  Cape  George,  '''lie  *  retrospect  from  this  point  affords  one 
of  the  grandest  views  on  the  river.    2  M.  below  (1.  bank)  is  seen  the  inter- 


J  jind  as- 

■ir( .) 

ariiijrinto 
(I  <'ovt'red 

m-cdlori'd 

it  illrcrtly 

ward,  the 

the  dark 

bank  he- 
-ithiiiK  can 
c'd  chiiriip- 

ptWI'Cll  tlic 

I  not  rich, 
le  Eternity 
r  and  birch 
wlicrc  the 
io  strifis  of 
th<Mcvors-e 
wcaknt'spit 
1  dcforiiiity 
'siipct  from 
t\ii-.n  l/iOO 
eath  It,  and 
ack  stream 
pray  brows, 
ig  an  awful 
fres,  stained 
ke  Niagara, 
■!ice  or  Foli- 
e  like  this." 

id  his  suite, 
pace  of  half 
f  the  report 
crash  upon 
der  the  tre- 
p,  crushing 
ited,bellow- 
the  distant 

is  shallow 

3  M.  Ions, 

ituated  in 

iirroundins 

US.     In  the 

s  clown  out 
onnds  and 
the  mouth 
St.  Louis 
birch-trco?i. 
multitudes 
es  of  Cape 
affords  one 
m  the  hiter- 


QUEBEC  TO   MONTREAL.        Route  7/f.       305 

vales  of  the  St.  Marrpierite  Rirer,  the  chief  tributary  of  the  Safjuenay,  de- 
scending tVom  a  lake  far  N.  ofChicoutinii,  and  famous  for  its  sahnon-Hslier- 
ies  (leased).  It  is  a  swift  stream,  flecked  with  rapids,  but  is  navi<j;al)lc  for  20 
^I.  by  canoes;  and  flows  from  a  valuable  region  of  hard-wood  trees.  Thc^re 
arc  huts  along  the  strand  at  its  mouth,  and  vessels  are  usually  seen  at  an- 
chor here;  while  far  inland  are  bare  and  rugged  ridges.  The  tall  proniou- 
tory  beyond  this  river  is  seamed  with  remarkable  trap-dikes,  of  a  color 
approaciiing  black;  oj)posite  whicli  is  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Atlianase. 

Beyond  Point  Crepe  (r.  bank)  i.>^  the  deep  cove  of  St.  KticniK^  Bay.  aflord- 
ing  an  anchorage,  and  bordered  with  narrow  strips  of  alluvial  land.  The 
steamer  now  sweeps  rapidly  down,  between  inmio.iso  cliffs,  and  with  but 
narrow  reaches  of  the  river  visible  ahead  and  astern.  Beyond  the  P(t&ie 
Pierre  Isles  (r.  bank)  it  approaches  a  castellated  crag  on  the  r.,  opposite 
which  is  the  frowning  promontory  called  *  Pointe  la  Boule,  a  vast  granite 
mountain  which  narrows  the  channel  to  very  close  con:  lies.  J'ron)  Pointe 
la  Boule  to  Tadousac,  the  river  flows  between  escarped  cliffs  of  feldspathic 
granite,  with  an  af)pearance  re-embling  stratification  dipping  to  the  S.  K. 
Their  lofty  rounded  suimnits  arc  nearly  barren,  or  at  most  support  a  thin 
fringe  of  low  trees;  and  the  sheer  descent  of  the  sides  is  prolonged  to  a 
great  depth  beneath  the  water. 

The  vessel  calls  at  L'Anse  a  V Eau.,  the  little  cove  near  Tadousac  (see 
page  299);  and  soon  afterwards  steams  out  into  the  broad  St.  Lawrence, 
in  the  darkness  of  evening.  The  next  morning,  the  traveller  awakes  at  or 
near  Quebec. 

74.    Quebec  to  Montreal.  —  The  St.  Lawrence  River. 

The  river-route  is  by  tlic  steamboats  of  the  Richelieu  Company,  leaving  Que'ieo 
at  eveiiin<r.  It  is  fj'J  M  tVoui  Quebec  to  Batiscau,  90  M.  to  Three  Rivers,  i;^')  M. 
to  Sorel,  and  180  M.  to  .\Iontre;il. 

The  shortest  route  by  rail  between  the  two  cities  is  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway, 
along  the  North  Shore. 

Stations. —Quebec  to  Lake  St.  .John  .1  unction,  4  M. ;  Lorotte,  8;  Passe  Para- 
di«,  14;  Ste.  Jeanne  de  Neuville,  26;  St.  Baziie,  3);  Portneui",  35;  Deschaml.iu  t, 
3);  Lachevrotiure,  42 :  (h'ondiues,  45;  St.  Anne  de  la  Perade,  53;  Hariscan,  5.-J ; 
(Miainplain,  65;  I'iles  Branch  .Junction.  75;  Tliree  Rivers  R.,  78:  i'ointe  du  Lac, 
85;  V'amachiche,  93;  Louise  Vilie,  98;  Maskinonge,  102;  St.  IJartaclemi,  li)8  ; 
St.  (Juthhert.  HI:  Herthier,  110;  Lanoraie  .Junction,  124;  I^a  Valtiii;  Ruad,  12. »  ; 
liWssomptiou.  133;  L"K|ii|(li mic,  137;  St.  Henri  de  Mascouche,  145 ;  Terrebonne, 
149;  St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  155;  Montreal.  170. 

Tne  UraiiiJ  Trunk  RaHwny  runs  two  trains  dail.v  between  Quebec  and  Montreal. 
Stations  — Quebec  (Point  Levi) ;  Iladlow.  2  M.  ;  Chandiure  Curve,  8  ;  ('raig's  Road, 
15  ;  Black  River,  20 ;  Methofs  Mills,  28  ;  Lv>tcr,  37  :  Uecancour,  41 ;  Somer-ct,  49  ; 
Stimfold,  65;  ArthaVjaska,  tj4  ;  Warwick,  71;  Danville,  84;  Richmond,  90;  New 
Durham,  101)  ;  Acton,  118  ;  Upton,  124;  Britannia  Mills,  130;  St  Ilyacintbe,  137  ; 
Soixante,  144;  St.  Ililaire,  150;  St.  Bruno,  157;  St  Hubert,  102;  St.  liambert, 
107  ;  Montreal,  172. 

"  It  could  real!}'  be  called  a  vill'ige,  beginning  at  siontreal  and  ending  at  Quebec, 
which  is  a  distance  of  more  than  180  M. ;  for  the  farm-houses  are  never  more  than  five 
arpent.s  apart,  and  sometimes  but  three  asunder,  a  few  places  excepted."'  ( K  vLM  ,  the 
Swedish  traveller,  in  1749.)  In  1084  La  Houtan  -said  that  tlie  houses  along  the.«e  shores 
were  never  more  than  a  gunshot  apart.    The  iuUabitauts  are  simple-minded  and 

T 


i 


,■1 


;l 


'■    ;| 


r«*»*M 


30  G     Punttc  74. 


ST.   AUGUSTIN. 


i*  '.' 


'1  ^i( 


■ 


primitive  in  thoir  wnys,  t<>naciou.«Iy  rcfaininp:  the  Catholic  taith  anil  tho  French 
iiuijjiiajit'  and  tustoni.*.  EimT.v  dc  Caen,  ("liamiilain's  contenipunin  ,  (old  tiic  Hugue- 
not sailors  that  '•  Monseigntur,  the  Duke  dc  Vontaduur  (Vi''en«y),  did  not  wiili  tlu.t 
they  pliould  s^ing  psalms  in  tlie  (heat  lliver."'  When  tlie  first  steamboat  ascended 
this  river,  an  old  Canadian  voi/atc 'tr  extlainied,  in  ustonisliuieut  and  doubt,  "  Mai3 
croyez-vous  que  le  bon  Dieu  permettra  tout  eela  I  " 

As  the  steamboat  swiiif!;s  out  into  the  stream  a  fine  series  of  views  p^ro 
allbrdcd,  iiichidiuf;^  Quebec  itml  the  Ba.^iii,  the  boUl  bhiHs  of  Point  Levi, 
and  the  dark  walls  of  the  Citadel,  almost  overhead.  As  the  river  is  as- 
cended, the  villas  of  Sillery  and  Cap  Kongo  are  seen  on  the  r.,  and  on  the 
1.  are  the  wharves  and  villages  of  South  Quebec  and  Kew  Liverpool,  be- 
vond  which  are  the  mouths  of  the  Etchemin  and  Chaudiere  Rivers.  St. 
Avfju^tiii  is  on  the  N.  shore,  15  ^l.  above  (Quebec,  ai.d  has  a  Cnlvaire,  to 
which  many  pilgrinniges  are  made,  and  a  statue  of  the  Guardian  Angel, 
erected  on  a  base  of  cut  stone  in  front  of  the  church,  and  commemorating 
the  Vatican  Council  of  1870. 

Near  the  village  is  a  ruined  church  dating  from  1720,  at  whose  construction  the 
Devil  is  said  to  have  assisted,  in  the  torm  of  a  iiowert'ul  bliick  stallion  who  hauled  in 
tlie  bl(K'ks  of  stone,  until  his  driver  iinbridled  him  at  a  watering-idaee,  when  he 
vanislied  in  a  cloud  of  sulphur-smoke.  In  froiit  of  t^t.  Augustine  the  French  frigate 
Ata'nnte  surrendered  to  the  IJritish  deet  in  17ijl),  after  a  heroic  hut  iiopeless  battle; 
and  in  the  same  waters  the  steamer  J\lontr(ul  was  burned  in  1857,  and  200  passen- 
gers lost  their  lives. 

Pointe  aux  Trembles  is  3  M.  above  St.  Augustin  (N.  shore,  and  is  a  ship- 
bnihling  village  of  700  inhabitants.  Here  many  of  the  ladies  of  Quebec 
took,  refuge  during  Wolfe's  siege  (1759),  and  were  captured  by  his  Gren- 
adiers. Here  also  the  American  arndes  of  Arnold  and  Montgomery  united 
their  forces  (Dec.  1,  1775)  before  the  disastrous  assault  on  Quebec.  Pass- 
ing the  hamlet  of  St.  Antoine  de  Tilly,  on  the  S.  shore,  the  village  of  Les 
Ecureuils  is  seen  on  the  N.,  7  M.  above  Pointe  aux  Trembles.  This  is 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Jacques  Cartier  River,  famous  for  its  remarkable 
scenery  and  for  its  fine  trout-fishing  (on  the  upper  waters)  On  the  heights 
near  the  mouth  of  the  river  was  Fort  Jacques  Cartier,  to  which  10,000 
French  troops  retreated  after  the  defeat  of  ^Montcalm.  Nearly  a  year  later 
(.lune,  17G0)  the  fort  was  held  by  the  Marquis  d'Albergotti,  and  was  bom- 
barded and  taken  by  Eraser's  Highl  tideii. 

6  M.  above  Les  Ecureuils  is  St.  Croix  (S.  shore),  a  village  of  750  in- 
habitimts,  with  a  black  nunner}'  and  the  public  buildings  of  Lotbiniere 
County.  3  ]\L  beyond  (N.  shore)  is  Portneuf.  a  prosperous  little  town 
witli  paper-mills  and  a  large  country  trade.  This  seigniory  was  granted 
to  ^L  Le  Neuf  by  the  Cent  Associds  in  1647,  and  was  completely  deso- 
lated by  the  fam'shing  Erench  cavalry  in  1759.  Beyond  this  point  the 
scenery  becomes  less  j)icturesque,  and  the  bold  ridges  of  the  Laurentian 
Mts.  sink  down  into  level  lowlands.  Deschaiiibault  (X.  shore)  has  500  in- 
habitants, with  a  trade  in  lumber  and  flour.  Lvtbiid'ere  (S.  shore)  is  a 
town  of  2,500  inhabitants,  with  a  Convent  of  the  Bon  Pasteur  and  two 
Stove-foundries.     Grondines  (N.  shore)  is  3  M.  beyond  Descliambuult,  au(. 


THREE  RIVERS. 


Route  74.       307 


has  400  inhabitants;  and  St,  Jenn  Deschaillons  (S.  shore)  is  noted  for  its 
brickyards.  St.  Anne  de  la  Peracle  (N.  shore)  has  a  great  church,  and  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Anne  River,  which  is  here  crossed  by  a 
bridge  1,500  ft.  long.  Beyond  St.  Pierre  les  Becquets  (S.  shore)  is  the 
busy  little  port  of  i^afiscaft  (N.  shore),  with  its  two  lighthouses;  Geniilly 
(S.  shore)  has  600  inhabitants  and  the  Convent  of  the  Assumption;  and 
Champlain  (N.  shore)  has  400  inhabitants. 

Three  Rivers  {British  American  Hotel)  is  a  city  of  9,000  inhabitants, 
midway  between  Quebec  and  Montreal,  and  at  the  head  of  tide-water  ou 
tlie  St.  Lawrence  River.  It  was  founded  in  1618,  under  the  name  of  Trois 
Rivieres,  and  played  an  important  part  in  the  early  history  of  Canada. 
The  chief  buildings  are  the  stately  Catholic  Cathedral,  the  Court-House, 
the  Ursuline  Convent,  St.  Joseph's  College,  and  the  Episcopal  and  VVes- 
leyan  churches.  The  city  has  a  bank,  2  Masonic  lodges,  and  4  semi- 
weekly  and  weekly  newspapers  (2  of  which  are  French).  Besides  the 
daily  boats  of  the  Richelieu  Line,  there  are  5  steamboats  plying  from  this 
port  to  the  adjacent  river-villages.  It  is  connected  with  Quebec  and 
Montreal  by  the  Three-Rivers  Branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and 
by  the  North-Shore  Railway,  and  lias  builr  a  new  line  up  the  St.  Mau- 
rice Valley  to  Grand  Piles.  There  are  large  iron-works  and  machine- 
shops  here,  and  stoves  and  car-wlieels  are  made  in  great  numbers  from 
bog-iron  ore.  The  chief  industry  is  the  shipment  of  himber,  which  comes 
down  the  St.  Maurice  River.  The  Canadian  government  has  expended 
$200,000  in  improving  the  navigation  on  the  St.  Maurice,  and  over 
$  1,000,000  has  been  invested  in  mills  and  booms  above. 

The  St.  Maurice  River  waters  a  district  of  immense  (and  unknown)  extent, 
abounding  in  lakes  un(i  forests.  Portions  of  this  grwit  northern  wilderness  hf  ve 
been  visited  by  the  lumbermen,  who  conduct  rafts  to  Ttiree  Rivers,  where  the  lumber 
is  sawed.  About  22  M.  above  the  city  are  the  nol)le  Falls  of  the  Skawanegan, 
where  the  great  river  plunges  over  a  perpendicular  descent  of  150  ft.  between  the 
lofty  rocks  called  La  GtanW  Mere  and  Le  Bunhoinme.  A  few  miles  above  are  the 
Falls  of  the  Grand''  Mire.  These  falls  are  visited  by  engaging  canoes  anil  guiJes  at 
'I  liree  Ilivers,  while  hunting-parties  conducted  by  Canadian  foya§<'M/-5  or  Algonquia 
Indians  sometimes  pass  thence  into  the  remote  northern  forests  in  pursuit,  of  the 
larger  vaiietie-;  of  game.  The  head-waters  of  the  St.  Maurice  are  interlocked  witli 
tliose  of  the  Sagueuay. 

Across  the  8t  Maurice  is  the  thriving  village  of  Cap  de  la  Magdelame ;  and  on 
tlie  S.  shore  are  Becancour,  the  capital  of  Nicolet  County,  and  St.  Ani(tl  de  Laval 
(Doucett's  Landing),  the  terminus  of  a  branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

The  steamer  soon  enters  Lake  St.  Peter,  a  shallow  widening  of  the  river 
22  M.  long  and  8  M.  broad.  It  has  a  deep  and  narrow  channel  (partly  ai> 
tificial),  which  is  marked  out  by  buoys  and  poles,  and  is  used  by  large 
vessels.  Immense  lumber-rafts  are  often  seen  here,  drifting  downward 
like  floating  islands,  and  bearing  streamers,  sails,  and  the  rude  huts  of  the 
luinbenneu.  In  stormy  weatiicr  on  tlie  lake  the^^e  r;vfts  sometimes  come 
to  pieces.  The  inlets  along  the  low  shores  afford  good  duck-shooting;  and 
enormous  quantities  of  eels  and  pike  are  taken  from  the  waters.    Near  the 


if 
■*■  'II 


si" 
ti',  ^1 


'  i    ^' 


11 


308      Il.Hte  7',. 


SOU  EL. 


14 


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r 


ni 


K.  ond  of  tim  lake,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nicolet  Rivor,  8  M.  from  St.  (Ire- 

ptiro  Station,  is  Nicolet,  with  .{.SOO  iniial)itaiit»,  with  a  iiohU^  colii'j,^',  with 

its  250  .stiidi'ntH  ami  attractive^  parlts  and  pinlcns.     On  (ho  N.  sliorc  is 

Kivii'fo  du  Lonp  en  haiit,  or  I.onisfvilit',   nt-ar  whnii  are  the  ceh-hratt'd 

St.  Leon  Springs  (Si.  L<tm  Sprini/s  f/nit/),  rcaihi'd  bv  daily  stap-  from 

Lonisovillo,    in   i)   M.       .SV.   Fnnx^D'm  du   Lac   is  a  prottv   viiiafrc  at  the 

jnoMth  of  the  "^rcat  St.  I^'rancis  liiver.  'I  lie  .\l»i'nakis  Floiise  is  a  well- 
known  snnmier-rcsorf,  with  vahial»I(>  saline  mineral  springs.  The  route 
fro'ii  Montrc.'il  is  liy  rail  I'i'i  YanmsUa  ;  or  by  stoannT  to  Sorel. 

On  leiivinp  Lake  St.  Peter,  the   steamer  tiiroads  her  way  throu/jh  tin 

Jirehipehtgu  of  low  islands,  and  soon  reaches  Sorel  (Ibiir  hotels),  a  city  of 

f).''00  inhabitants,  with  15  weekly  papers  (2  rrench),  u  Catiiolie  eolle^'e, 

several  shipyards  and  l"oiiiidri<'s,  and  a  iar^e  cinintry  trade.     It  is  at  tlio 

mouth  of  tlie  great  I'iver  Ixicliclieu,  the  outlet  of  Lake  (leorgo  and  Lake 

Chaniplain,  whoso  head-waters  are  interlocked  with  those  of  the  Hudson. 

Kavij^ition  is  kept  up  between  this  point  and  the  Lake-Champlain  ports  by 

the  Chauibly  Canal.     Tlic  tow.i  is  n-.L^iilarly  laid  out,  and  its  broad  streets 

are  adorned  with  trees.     In  the  centre  is  the  lloyal  Square,  whose  tine  old 

elms  are  nuuh  admired.     Sorel  is  the  terminus  uf  tlie  northern  division  of 

the  Southeastern  iiailwa}'. 

Fort  lUohdiou  was  built  on  tins  pitp  In  KHl ,  and  was  rf>-ronstrurt4'd  and  enlnrjjed 
by  ('apt.  Sorel,  of  the  ("iu'i|;iiiui  Ke^:iiiu'nt,  under  orders  from  (Jov.  do  Triicv  (lOUo). 
]n  Novt'uilier,  177;"),  it  was  ocrui)i('d  li>  Col  Kaston,  witli  a  stroiip;  force  ot  Coiitiiii'n- 
tal  trooits  and  Ji  llotilla,  and  tiiis  dc'tachiitfiif  cMiitured  U  sail  of  vessels,  coiitainiug 
Gen.  Preseott  and  the  British  jjiirrison  of  Montreal.  Soril  was  for  many  .\ ears  the 
euinmor  iw  idence  of  tlie  t'lniadian  j^overnors,  and  on  beiii^r  visited  l)y  l*riiie('  Wil- 
liam Ueiirv  of  Kii;;l!ind  (afterward  King  William  IV.)  au  abortive  attempt  was  mudo 
to  change  its  uaiuo  to  WiUiain  Utiirij. 

Berth ier  en  liant  is  6  M.  above  Sorel,  on  the  N.  shore  (semi-daily  .steam- 
ers ^,  and  is  an  important  nuumfacturingtown  of  1,700  inhabitiuits,  situated 
amid  rich  farming  lands.  It  was  tlu  birthplace  of  M.  Faribault,  longtime 
a  N.  W.  Commissioner,  and  founder  of  Faribault,  Jlinnesota.  Back  of 
Berthier  are  the  populous  towns  of  St.  Cuthbert,  St.  Norbet,  St.  Felix  de 
Valois,  and  St.  Klizabolii.  Lanomie  is  9  M.  above  Berthier  (N.  Shore), 
and  is  the  teriuinns  of  the  St.  Lawrence  &  Industry  Railway,  which 
ru:...  N.  \Y.  12  M.  to  St.  'j'ijomus  and  .loliette,  and  thence  into  !\Iontcalni 
County.  15  M.  above  Sort!  (S.  shore)  is  Contrecoeur,  noted  for  its  maple- 
siiirar;  and  Lavaltrie  is  15  M.  above  Berthier  (X.  shore),  and  has  2 
ligiithousos.  6  M.  above  is  St.  Snlpice  (N.  shore),  beyond  which  is  L'As- 
soiviption  (Hotel  Richard),  a  prosperous  village  of  2,600  inhabitants. 
Aliove  the  N.  shore  village  of  Repentigiiy  the  N.  branch  of  the  Ottawa 
River  (Riviere  des  I'rairies)  flows  into  tlie  St.  Lawrence,  having  diverged 
from  the  Ottawa  at  the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains. 

Varennes  is  a  pretty  village  on  the  S.  shore,  opposite  Isie  St.  Therese, 
and  connected  by  a  ferry  with  Bou^  de  I'lsle,  and  w-ith  Montreal  (15  51.  dis- 
tant) by  a  daily  steamer.     It  has  825  inhabitants,  and  manufuctiu'es  many 


Vom  St.  (!re- 

colU'^t'.  with 

e  N .  >*li<in'  is 

lU!    ClilcblHtt'd 

y  stHgi!  from 
I'ilhif;*'  «t  tlio 
isf  is  i\  w«'il- 
*.  The  route 
I'l. 

ly  thniufrh  iiu 
els),  a  city  of 
iholic  folU'Ke, 
It  is  11^  tlio 
ir^o  mid  Lake 
)t'  the  Hudson. 
)\)]n\u  ports  by 
s  hroiul  streets 
wliose  tine  old 
enx  division  of 


^t»>d  and  fnlMrged 
do  Triirv  {imi)). 

[oivo  ot  Contiui-n- 

sscls,  coutainiiig 

uiaiiv  u'urti  tho 

1  t)y  i'v'xncv  Wil- 

ittuuipt  was  made 


ini-duily  steam- 
iitimts,  situated 
)ault,  longtiiuo 
ila.     liaek  of 
t,  St.  Felix  do 
iev  (N.  Shore), 
nil  way,  which 
into  Montcalm 
I  for  its  niaple- 
ire),   and  has  2 
which  is  L'As- 
OO    inhahitunts. 
of  the  Ottawa 
laving  diverged 


S( 


,v 


sle  St.  Therese, 
trea!  (15M.dis- 
ufuctures  mimy 


-t- 


T" 


«        V 


MONTREAL. 


1 


I.  n(iiis«'C(iiir«  MiirUct 

•j.  I'd-t  Oilier 

.'1.  ( 'oiirt  lloii^ic    .     .     .     , 

r,.  V.   M    r.  A.  Hiiililiii^' 

i;.  St.    \iimV   Miirkcl 

s.  M  llit.ii  V  Scliiiol    .    . 

'.I.  Ui)Miin;i)ii  Si|H"i(;     . 


1  .  ,".  'Jli.  liliick  Xiiiiiicry    .     .     .     V..  ft. 

I'..  I.  •_'.'!.  <iiiiy  NiiiiiHiy    .     .     .     A.  ii. 

I'.  I.  L'l.  Sfniiiiiiiy  lit  St.  Siilpicc  i;. ;». 

('.'■).  '_'.■>.  SclIlllllltN    fit'  I'l  lots        .       A.  'J. 

))..•.  JC.  St.  Miiiv  'h  Cnllc-c  .     .     1).  ". 


•  *  » 


CHUK'CHf:'-;. 
Id.  f.i.  r.iii'.s  Ciitiici'  ill  . 

II.     Xntic    1)^1111.'       .... 

IJ.    Cliri-f     (  liiiirli   t'Mlhf- 

(ir.ii i).;i 

j.'l.    (JcMI  (.|f>.l|il;--l  ....      I).  .". 

II.  St.  l'.ilrii;kV(<':itli.)     .  I).  I 
l.'i.  .\iiii'i  iciiii     ....  I!.  1 

III.  'I'litiily 1'.  I 

ir.  XdIij;  Diiirii- (Ic  Itdiisi'- 

(!i)iirs I''-  ■'' 

IS.  St.  .fiiin'A  (Ciith.)    .   .    r.  ;i 

('  . 

C.   I 
C.  1 


r.  I.  j;.  ,Mc(;iii  ('<iii.i:i'   . 

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'_".l.  (iciicilll   II(i>|iillll 

!.:i|.  Iloti'l    l)i<il  .      .     . 

;!.  SIdillii;,'  Hirik  .     . 

IL'.  N'  ii-tiiriii  Si|iiiirt'  . 

1.1.  I'hlCI-    I)'.\llMCM       . 

11.  \  i^'ir  Stiiiiin-    .     . 

',:>.  C'lmmp  ill'  .MiirH  . 


.  ('.  L'. 

.  II.  1, 

K.  .1.  I. 

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HOTELS. 


.Id.  St.  i.iiwni!!'!'  iiiiii  .    .    !■:  ). 
;:'.i.   .Miiiiiii l)..'<. 

|((.    <iniii(l   I'rimk  11.  It.  Stn- 

tmii ('.  .'. 

II.  c.  r.  \{.  H.  Sfiitioii .    .    <:.  ». 
I:.;.    W  iiulHor  llotui    .    .    .    C  .  .'i. 


01 I-.    St.  (icor-i'  (  llpi-.) 
'JO.   St.  rmil  (  I'lfs  )     . 
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JCooGeoiJOaoDQDDrjDmDDE 


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1.  Rniisd'oiirs  Market 

'.'.  I'M-t  Ollici,"  ... 

■  1.  (Kurt  llniisc    .     . 

.-).  Y.  M.  C.  A.  liniM'.i;. 

C.  St.  Ann'.-  .Miiikct     . 


1' 

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liliick  Xiinncry 
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1'.  t.    lM.    Scmina  ■'     .f  St.  Siilpioi'  I-! 


.Milit; 


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litii-hii|i  s  I'ul.ici' 

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MONTREAL. 


HoiUe  76.      309 


cnrriufjes.  Tho  ohurcli  Is  a  Ifirge  nnd  stately  buJlflinfr,  with  two  conspicu- 
ous towers.  1  M.  from  the  village  ure  the  colebrat(Ml  Varennes  Sprinya, 
Avhich  arc  >;;ilino  in  character  and  possessed  of  valuahle  metlicinal  prosier- 
ties.  One  of  tlunu  emits  j^rcat  (pumtities  of  carbonated  hydrogen  gas,  and 
the  other  yields  2 -3  gallons  a  minute,  and  is  much  visited  by  invalids. 
Arrangements  are  being  made  to  establish  a  first-class  sunnner  resort  at 
this  point.  Above  Varcnnes  is  Boiicfierville,  the  birthplace  of  Chief  Justice 
Sir  Louis  IlipjmlA'^te  Lafontaine.  Tho  low  and  marshy  islands  otT  this  shore 
are  famous  for  duck-shooting,  and  for  the  ice-dams  which  form  here  at 
the  close  of  the  winter.  Pointe  aux  TremMes  is  to  the  N.,  on  the  Island  of 
Montreal,  and  is  an  ancient  village  dating  from  1L?4. 

"  We  were  glidinf?  past  LonRueuil  and  BouchervMle  on  the  (left),  ami  Pointe  aux 
Trembles^ '  so  called  from  havhig  Ixeii  originally  covered  with  asjK'ns,'  on  the  (right). 
I  repeat  these  names  not  merely  for  svant  of  more  sulistantial  facts  to  record,  but 
because  they  sounded  singularly  poetic  in  my  ears  There  certainly  was  no  lie  in 
them.  They  suggested  that  some  simple  and  porchauce  heroic  human  life  might 
havo  transpired  there."    (Tuorkau.  ) 

Clustering  villages  are  now  seen  on  either  shore,  and  the  river  is  strewn 
with  low  islands.  At  9  M.  above  Pointe  aux  Trembles  the  steamer  reaches 
her  pier  at  Montreal,  with  the  magnificent  Victoria  Bridge  spanning  the 
river  in  front. 


f 


75.    Montreal. 

HoteLs.  —  *  The  Windsor,  on  Dominion  S(jniire,  in  an  elevated  and!  quiet  nnrt  of 
the  city,  not  far  from  tiiu  Moiint-llo\,u  I'.irk,  is  uiduiihtedly  one  of  the  mosst  mag- 
niticent  liotels  in  America.  Its  aicnirectiire  is  very  iinpo.^ing,  and  witaiii  it  ha.s  a 
splendid  frescoed  rocunda,  m.irhle  staircilse^^,  an  immense  dining-liall,  and  hun- 
dreds of  ntrv  nnd  coinforf-. hie  rtrmihers  with  'tnt  and  cold  wiiter,  and  all  conven- 
iences ($3.50-5  a  day).  The  Balmoral  is  an  elegant  hoteJ,  erected  in  1885-86, 
with  a  graystone  front  210  ft.  long,  on  Notre- Dame  St.   ($2-3  a  day). 

St.  lici.vroiice  ll.iii,  idJ  ai.  .iiiiiie.s  St.,  is  a  comioit mic  liotci  iu  tiie  centre  of  the 
city,  near  the  post-oftice  and  binks.  I'lic  Albion.  141  McUiil  8t..  is  frequented  by 
country  merchants  and  commercial  rnen.  The  chief  Fivnch  hote  i>  the  Kiche- 
lien,  a  wetl-kept  house  on  St.  Vincent  St.,  !|^1.5J-2.50  a  day.  llotei-omnibuses 
meet  all  trains  and  boats. 

Itestawrants.  — Alexander's,  391  Notre  Dame  St.;  Freeman's,  231  St.  James 
St. ;  I'ouipiiiis,  IIG  St.  tranyois  Xivier  St,  :  The  Bodega,  8  ili  Xotre  Dame  St.  ;  Vic- 
tor's, 145  St.  .lames  St.  ;  U'aikers,  y;2  Notre  Dame  St. 

Clwbs.  — Metropolitan,  on  Beaver  Ilali ;  and  .-^t.  James,  on  Dorchester  St. 

Amusements.  —  Theatre  Royal,  lit  Cotte  St.,  open  usually  during  the  sum- 
mer. Operatic  and  theatrical  entertainments,  in  winter,  at  tho  Academy  of  Music, 
Victoria  St  Lecture's  are  given  at  the  AsscK'iation  liali,  corner  of  Craig  St.  and 
Victoria  Square.  Lectures  and  other  entertainments  are  also  given  at  the  hall  of 
the  Mechanics'  Institute,  204  St  .Tames  St.  Tiie  Victoria  Skating  Rink,  Druxnmond 
and  Dorcliester  Sts.,  is  faniou''  for  its  winter  carnivals.  Lacrosse,  Ihe  I'anadiau 
national  game,  is  plaved  at  *•''  ■  ■  mnds  on  Slu;rbroo:ce  St.  We«t  and  St.  Catherine  St. 
West.     Foothall.  cricket,  g  ■  cycling,  fox-hunting,  racket,  lawn  tennis,  horse- 

ricing,  tobogganing,  snow-slu  ;jng,  curling,  all  have  their  devotees  and  their  head- 
quarters     "'*ie  Thistle  Rink  is  near  tho  Crystal  Palace. 

Rea«ii^»;»-Roams. —Young  Men's  Christian  As.oociation,  Victoria  Square? 
Merchants  EfrOmnge.  11  St.  Safranieiit  St.  ;  Mechanics'  Institute,  204  St.  James 
St  ;  lnstitnt(Janadien,  111  Notre  Dame  St.;  Union  OathoUque  (20,000  vols.),  St. 
Mary's  Church. 


ii' 


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310 


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MOXTUKAL. 


1 4 


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m 


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Posi-Ofllpp,  on  St.  .Inmos  Sf,,  noiirSt,  l-'r  iiiv")i^  Xiivlor  Sf,.  Tchprnpli,  ceiUma 
offlfi"  oftlii' .Mniitival  Tcifk'iMp'i  ('Dihp.iiiv.  form  r  of  Sf  Stcniiiii'iif  aixl  St.  Kriiii^ils 
X  ivicr  St.«  Miiiiif/.  —  Ami'riiMii  iiinl  Hritiuli  koIiI  mul  |t;i|K'r  iiioiu-y  piiwHoM  at  par, 
Imf^ilvcr  Ih  at  a  itiscniitit. 

Cai'ri)iK*'M*  —  (Oiw-ljorHc.)  For  I -2  por-'in,  fr'iO  miniitoH,  2;')  ronfs  ;  for  ^ 
hr.,  inc.  ;    by  tlio  lioiir,  7')  c.  ami  tiO  c.  '  !•    i'      Moiial  liour.     lor  ;{    4  piT- 

sons,  fur  20  iiiimift's,  or  liws,  oil  c. ;  for  '  \u-  .  n  i»,v  tli«  lioiir,  ?>  I,  aixl  7'x'.   for 

t'iicli  adiiitioiiiil  lioiir.  ^Two-lnlrs^•  caiii  i;;(>m  ^  i  or  I  -  2  pi-rsons,  for  \  lir,,  or  Ii-sk, 
(r)c.;li.v  the  hour, .":« I.  l-'or  .'}  4  prison-,  for  \  In-.,  or  loss,  TOc  ;  Ity  lln' lioiir,  #  l.lift. 
Fractions  of  hours  clniruo'l  y*/v)  ra/n.  'I'Uc  tarilT  liy  th«  hour  applies  to  nil  rural 
excursions,  for  which  iMrria^^csui'tM-imajjcil  in  flic  city.  'I'ht'  U';;.il  t.irill  is  au(ini«!ut»'(l 
&(t  per  cent  ht>twccM  niidniniii  and  4  a.  m.     Tru;iks  ami  hoxos,  lOc.  each 

IIorM«-riiiH  run  across  to"'  city  on  Craiy;,  IJIcury,  and  St.  rafhfrinc  HtH.  ;  also 
on  St.  Miiry.  NoU't;  Uanie,  and  Si.  Jusuph  Sts.  ;  and  out  St  La  •  -  ,  ^taiu  Ht.  to  St. 
JiMU  llapiistc. 

KailwavH.  -To  Hoston  hy  wavof  St  .\lhans.  Concord,  and  Lowell,  in  HHt  M.  : 


or  bv  wiiv  of  Fitchlinrn,  in  '.U\  M.  ;  or  hy 


the  Southc.i-'tcrn  Ilailwav. 


To  New  York,  hy  ll'itiand  ami  Alh my,  ;r>r)  M.  (I>y  L'ike  Chainplain,  4(>'.  M  ) ;  toQ 
be.',  172  M.  (in  7  hrs  ) ;  I 

(JIW.M.  (14-15  hrs.);  to  l>        .,     . .„    ,.,.... 

Sta'.;<'f4  run  out  from  M'  ntrcal  in  nil  dircctioux,  daily.     To  St.  ('('■s.iii 
and  Ciianihly  ;  St    Knstacue,  St    .Xn^rn-itin,  St.  Scliolii-<tiiine,  St.  (Jolun 


imt  Allnn.v,  ;j  >;>       , 

ittslinr;,',  ().'}  .M.  :   to  Ilini.-ies  Point,  Afi  .M,  ;   to  Tornniu, 
•-•olt  (Stil  .M.)  and  Cliica'^o  (l,Uo  >••);  to  Ottawa,   1»;4   M. 


To  St.  (•(■s.iitc,  Marieville, 
ilian,  ami  St. 


('anut;   .New  (Slasj^ow,  Kilkenny,  St.  .Iiroine,  Stanbrid','e,  St.  Lin,  Sf.    iiippnlyie,  St. 
A;;itlit!  des    Monts,   St.    .\del«,   St.   .hinvier,  St.   'I'heresi' d»>  Ulainvilie,  St.  So|ihie  ; 
•^S; .  Vincont  de  Paul,  Mascouche,  Terrebonne,  and  St.  Hauveur  ;   I'ointe  aux  Treniides, 
Sault  an  Recoiled,  nnd  St.  .Miirtin. 

Stoainships. —  riie  (iist-cli-'<  ocean  steamships  of  the  Allan  Line  and  the  Do- 
minion Line  le.ive  Mont.n'il  J  - ,'{  times  weekly  ilniio);  the  season  (d"  miviiiatinn,  {nr 
Liverpool  and  (Jlasj^ow.  The  He;iver,  Donaldson,  Temperle, ,  Ross,  Thomson,  ami 
(Ireat  U'estern  Lines  also  run  weekly  Jind  I'oitniKlitl.v  steam^hiiis  between  .Montreii 
and  Liverjiool,  (}i;isj;ow.  Lnn  Ion,  Rii<tnl,  and  .N(!Wcastle-on-Tync ;  the  Wliife  Cross 
Line,  to  Antwerp;  the  Canadian  and  Hrazilijin.  to  the  \Ve>t  Indic'^  and  Hni/.il  ;  and 
the  Montreal  and  Acadian,  to  St,  John's,  N'ewtbinidlanil.  Tlu!  Richelieu  Li  le  runs 
d  dly  steamers  to  tin'  hi.v<T river-port-;  and  Quebec.  The  morninicandevi  ninj;  trains 
t.i  Ladiine  connect  with  the  stt^amlioat  for  Ottawa,  by  way  of  the  Ottawa  i.iver  Tho 
vess(ds  of  the  ('anadian  Navij^ation  Coinpin\'  ascend  tho  St.  Lawrcn<'e  and  Ld\e  Oii- 
t.P'io,  from  .Montreil  to  the  upper  river-port-  Toronto  ami  lliimilton.  The  .S7. 
Jle'iue  i\.ny\  Oftiiini  make  send-weekly  trip-;  to  the  Hay  of  Quinto.  The  (iuebeo 
S.  8.  Co.  sends  a  fortnightly  steanu-r  from  Montre  ;l  to  J'erc  •,  CliMrlottetown,  and 
J'i<'tou  Tiie  CJi'iiiilifi/  runs  semi weukly  from  Montreal  to  V<  rcheres,  ("ontrecoenr, 
Sorel,  St.  Ours,  St.  Denis,  St.  Anffiine,  Sr  Chaiics,  St.  Mure,  -t.  Ililaire,  HeUiMl.  St 
Matthias,  and  Chamblv  (!Ht  .M.).  The  Thri-e  li'n-'i  •>  runs  sen  weekly  to  Ve'-chercs, 
Sortd.  Masknu»niie,  Riviere  du  lioup  ( n  hdiif,  Yamnchicin',  Port  S-.  Francis, 
Clrimplain,  and  Thret;  Rivers.  The  lUrtliicV  runs  semi-weekly  to  ReperitlLfny,  St. 
Sulpi.-e,  Liivaltrie,  Lanoraie,  ami  lierthier.  The  TcrrclKMinr  runs  diiiiv  to  llou- 
cherviile,  Varennes,  Dout  de  I'lsle,  l/ii'l  i-dm',  LWs-ompMon,  jinil  T.  rebonne 
(24  M.).  Kerry  steamers  cross  the  river  at  IrcMjUent  intervals  ;  La  Prairie,  St.  Lam- 
bert, and  Lougueuil. 

Montreal,  the  metropolis  of  the  Dominion  of  C-inau  .,  nnd  "the  Queen 
of  the  St.  Liiwrence,"  is  one  of  the  most  beautii.,  ities  -n  the  continent. 
It  is  situated  on  an  ishmd  (at  tho  confluence  of  .  »tt(i  a  and  St.  Law- 
rence Rivers)  containing  197  scjinire  miles  and  which,  irom  its  fertility, 
has  been  cnlled  'e  Giirden  of  Cattada.  The  St.  Ltiwrence  is  1^  ]\I,  wide 
opi)osite  tlie  city,  and  the  river-front  is  lined  for  over  1  M.  with  lofty  find 
massive  wtiUs,  qutiys,  and  terraces  of  gniy  limestone,  tincqitalled  else- 
where in  the  world,  except  at  Liverpool,  Paris,  and  St.  Petersburg.  The 
commercial  buildings  of  the  city  are  generally  of  stone,  in  pudu  and  bubfetuu- 


'I'h( 


MONTUKAL. 


Iinutc75.      Mi 


tniiiiH 
Tlio 
Uo  Oii- 

lif    St. 

ill,  and 
(I'll.  St 

my,  St, 
to  iion- 
l'(>h(inrie 
Luui- 


Qvieen 
tinent. 
Liivv- 

rtility, 
.  wide 
jty  find 
\  else- 
.  The 
listuu- 


tlal  nrchitocturc,  and  tl  ;  iiimiln'r  of  llin'  public  buildiiij^H  is  very  lui>c«. 
Titrcu  fourths  of  tiic  population  urc  Cutholifs,  most  of  wlmni  un>  Krvnch.  nnd 
till'  III  li^ht  siihurlmii  viliii;;('s  jin-  almost  iMitindy  iiihaliittd  hy  Krcncliiin'ri. 
Allholl^•h  Montreal  is  !),St)  M.  fniiii  the  sen,  it  is  the  port  which  receives  thu 
greiitur  part  ot  the  iiiiporlalioiis  tot'aiiada;  and  its  iiiainil'acliiriiiL;  ititerestH 
arc  exteiisiv«!  and  important,  'i'lit!  admirahhi  systems  (d"  railway  ant! 
Kteamhoat  communication  which  ceiitn;  here,  have.  mu(h>  it  the  commercial 
emporium  of  thu  North;  and  ii«'W  liiieH  of  trallic  and  internal  railways 
are  heinj^  hniil  from  year  to  year,  hindiii^f  all  the  St.  F-awrence  coniilies  to 
this  city.  Montreal  forms  the  Mctropiiljiicul  ^  e  of  the  Ahf^lii-an  Cliiircli 
ill  Canada,  and  is  the  capital  tif  a  lioman-CalhoIic  dioce-e.  The  water- 
Bupply,  street-IampH,  paving,  niid  lire  deitartment  ure  nimilar  to  those  of 
Aiiuu-ican  cities  of  the  lirst  rank. 

The  population  (d"  Montreal  was  1-10,7 '  ,  at  the  <mmisus  of  1M8I,  and 
there  an;  (!(),<)()()  more  in  the  ad  jacenf.  village-*  on  the  island  Of  the  citi- 
zens, M),(t(»0  an!  freiich,  ;»),()()()  Irisli,  and  lOri.OdO  Koinan  CalliolicH. 
The  valiiati.-ii  of  real  <state  in  nhont  .Snr).0()(),n(K);  its  imports  in  IHHO, 
.1t;.*}7,  l();{,Hf)S) ;  and  its  exports,  $  ;U),224,!t04.  In  tlie  sanu-  yi'ar  710  vessels 
arrived  here  from  the  sea,  and  tin;  customs  revenue  was  ^  ri,2;{2,7SIt.  The 
city  hii  H)  hanks,  74<'hurch(!s,  and  more  than  -JO  newspapers  and  niaga/im!g 
(in  IJigli-     and  Kren<  1  riiere  are  nnmenuis  cliaritaitle  ami   hciievolerit 

organi/ali  ,  and  sd.  leiies  for  the  English,  Scotch,  Irish,  French,  (jer- 
inaii,  and  New-FCngland  residents. 

Victoi-  Square  is  a  public  ground  at  the  intersection  of  McfJill 
and  St.  Jnmes  Sts.,  or  lamented  with  a  fountain  and  a  bronze  statue  of 
(iueen  Victoria.  On  S.  >ide  is  the  elegant  (iothic  building  which  per- 
tains to  the  Young  Men's  (Christian  Association,  the  (»lde>t.  society  of  that 
name  in  America.  On  the  lower  side  of  tlu!  Stpiare  are  the  stately  Alhtrt 
liuildiiif/ti,  devoted  to  connnerce. 

I'assing  to  the  N.  K.  along  St.  James  St.,  the  visitor  nees  mnny  line 
stores,  aiul  the  attractive  buildings  of  *Molson's  Hank  (of  Ohio  stone  ,ind 
Scottdi  granite),  the  M(!rchants'  Haidt,  the  stately  new  *  I'ost-OIUce,  and 
other  syminetri(;al  and  solidly  constructed  edifices.  This  street  is  the 
liroadway  of  Montreal.  *S7.  Peter  St.  ruiip  to  the  S  E.  by  the  stalely 
(.'averhill  Buildings  (of  cut  limestone  i  Italian  I'alazzo  architectme)  to 
^7.  I'dul.  St.,  the  seat  of  an  extensive  wholesale  tradi;. 

Opposite  the  beautiful  Corinthian  colonnade  of  the  Hank  of  M(»ntreal 
(beyond  St.  Franoois  Xavier  St,  tlx-  AVall  St.  of  Montreal)  the /'A/ce 
(P Ai'nu'S  is  seen.  This  square  was  so  named  because  it  was  the  parade- 
ground  of  Montgomery's  American  army  in  1775.  Here  i-<  the  lofty  front 
of  the  *  Church  of  Notre  Dame,  one  of  the  iarge-t  ohurchcs  on  the  conti- 
nent, with  peats  for  8,000  persons  on  tlie  floor  and  J, 000  in  the  galleries.  It 
is  2j0i  ft.  long  aud  i\i\  ft.  wide,  and  has  a  chancel  window  of  stained  glass 


(I, 

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£1 


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3  1 2      RmUc  75. 


MON'Trn:  AL. 


:  1' 


■t 


64  X  '12  ft.  in  size.  The  interior  is  brilliantly  ami  tlicntrinilly  'Ipcoratod. 
There  are  two  towers  on  tin*  front,  each  22(»  ft.  high,  and,  like  the  church, 
in  the  siinplcst  f'onn  of  niciiia-VMl  (Jotliic  architc<'tiirp.  One  tower  has  n 
chitno  of  hells,  ami  in  the  other  hanps  "  CJros  Hctunlon,"  the  hirgest  ix'll 
in  America,  weifrliinrr  nearly  I')  tuns.  The  towr  is  peneriilly  open  (fee  of 
2r)c.  to  the  (lo(ir-l\ee|»er),  and  alVords  from  its  sunnnit  a  ntiide  *  view  of 
the  city  and  its  environs  (especially  of  the  city  and  river,  the  Victoria 
Bridge,  and  the  islands).  Tin  snJinrbs  of  Laprairie,  Lonfrnenil,  and  St. 
Land)ert,  the  Lacdiine  IJapids,  and  tlu^  blue  niounttiins  of  Vermont,  are 
seen  froni  tins  p<iint.  Alongside  the  cliurch  is  the  ancient  tieminavy  of 
St.  Sii/pice,  on  the  site  of  tlie  Seminary  of  1657,  as  tlie  cimrcii  is  near  the 
site  of  the  Notre  Dame  of  lOTl.  Tlie  present  church  was  built  in  1824-1), 
and  was  consecrated  by  the  Bishop  of  Tehnesse  in  partibus.  The  semi- 
nary con'^ists  of  low  and  massive  buildings,  surrounded  with  gardens  and 
court-yards  of  spotless  neatness.  It  has  24  priests  connected  with  its 
various  works. 

"  I  soon  fomict  my  way  to  the  Churrh  of  Notro  Diuiie.    T  paw  that  It  was  of  (rroat 

eiw  aiitl  Hi^nifu'il  Si)iii(>Miiiig ('(uniii^  fioiii  tin-  hurriiliiiig  uiol)  and  the  rattling 

oiirriiifres,  we  imshed  hack  the  listed  duor  (if  tills  oliurcli,  and  found  ourselves  in- 
stantly in  an  atniosidiere  wiiich  iiiiv^ht  l»>  sacred  to  thou);ht  and  rclii^ion,  if  one  hiid 

any It  was  a  great  cave  in  tlie  midst  of  a  city  ;  and  what  were  the  altars  and 

the  tinsel  hut  the  sparkliiifj;  Htalactics,  into  wliich  you  entered  in  a  moment,  and 
where  the  still  atmo-'phere  and  the  somlire  iij^lit  dispnsed  to  serious  and  profltahle 
tiiouglit  ?  Such  a  cave  at  hand,  w  hich  you  can  enter  aii\  day,  is  worth  a  thuusuud 
of  our  churches  which  ai"e  open  only  Sundays  "   (Thoheau.) 

Fronting  on  the  Place  d'Armes  are  the  elegant  Ontario  Bank  and  tlio 
hall  of  the  Grand  Lodge  of  the  Masons  of  Canada.  A  short  distance  to  the 
E.,  on  Notre  Dame  St.,  jii  archway  on  the  r.  admits  one  to  the  extensive 
and  secluded  Convent  of  the  Black  Nuns  (founded  in  1657).  Fartlier  on, 
the  *  Court  House  is  seen  on  the  1.,  —  a  stately  stone  building  in  Ionic 
architecture  (300  X  125  ft.),  back  of  which  is  the  Champ  de  Mars,  or 
Paradi!  (Jrotuid,  an  open  space  covering  ■28,800  square  yards,  and  ample 
enough  for  the  display  of  3, 000  tr()o})s.  The  great  stru(!ture  fronting  across 
Craig  St.  was  built  for  the  Dominion  Military  School,  which  is  in)W  estal)- 
lished  at  Kingston.  The  costly  and  s])lendid  new  City  Mall  is  on  the  K. 
side  of  the  Champ  de  Mars.  Just  beyond  the  Court  House  the  Jacques 
(yartier  S(]uare  o})ens  off  Notre  Dauie  St.,  ami  is  encumi>ered  with  a  dilapi- 
dated nioiuunent  to  Nelson  (erected  m  1808),  and  two  liussian  guns  from 
Sebastopol.  Near  the  head  of  this  sqmire,  lu  the  ancient  French  (iovern- 
mcut  l)uildiiig,  is  the  medical  school  of  Laval  University.  The  building 
dates  from  1704,  and  was  the  head(|uarters  of  the  American  generals  in 
177,-i_7n,  and  of  the  British  governors  until  Montreal  was  decapitalized. 

Bv  the  next  side-street  (St.  Claude)  to  the  r.,  the  *BonsecouiT  Mar- 
ket may  be  visited.  Tliis  market  is  imrivalled  in  America,  and  is  i)uilt 
of  stone,  in  quasi-Doric  architecture,  at  a  cost  of  .1*1800,000.  It  is  three 
stories  high,  has  a  lofty  d  rae,  and  presents  an  imposing  front  to  the  riven 


MONTH  I:AL. 


R'ltite  7o»      313 


Utvs,  or 
ample 

Lr  across 

IV  estal)- 

tho  K. 

facquc'S 

(lilai>i- 

lis  from 
tloveni- 
luiltlin.i;' 
•nils  ill 
lizotl. 
Is  Mar- 
ks l>iiilt 
Is  thrt'O 
river: 


The  curlnua  French  cnstmnes  and  lanpunpc  of  the  rnimtry  [tcoplc  who 
coii^iv^att!  litTt'  (Ml  markct-davs,  as  Wfll  as  some  pcciiliarilit's  ol  the  wart'S 
ollVrt'd  lor  salf,  n'ii(Kr  a  vi.sil  very  iiitin'stiii^-.  Alon^Mdc  oi  iliu  iiiarkot 
Ih  tliu  /idHiU'Cimi's  Church  (accoiinnodatiii^'  2, (KM)  ptrsniiH),  whirh  was  l)iiilt 
in  lt)")8.  A  short  distance  be}(»nd  is  tla;  (iui-lRT  railwav  station,  on  tho 
»ite  of  the  fxtciisivtj  Qiutbt-c-iJat*'  l)anatli>;  and  th«  Victoria  I'ii-r  makes 
out  into  till'  stream  towards  St.  IliUus  hU\,  formerly  a  foriilied  depot  of 
ammuiiitioii  and  war  luntirUl,  wliivli  was  namrd  Ity  ('liam|ilaiii  in  honor  of 
his  wife.  The  Isle  is  now  u  lovely  nuinne  park,  with  forts  and  Itarrackrt 
still  h'lundin^',  and  is  reached  hy  a  ferry-stenmer  from  Honseeours  Markiit. 
To  the  N.,  on  Craig  St.,  is  the  attractive  Vigor  (iarden,  with  a  small  con- 
eervatory  and  several  fmnitains,  frontinir  on  which  is  'I'linlni  Church 
(lCi)iscopal),  Inillt  ot Montreal  stone,  in  early  Kn;;lish  (lothie  architcctnre, 
and  aceommndatin:;  4.001)  persons.  N.  of  Trinity,  and  also  on  St.  henis  St., 
is  St.  .lames  Church  ((Jatholic),  in  the  pointed  (iotldc  style,  with  rich  Ktained 
glass.  Some  distance  E.  of  Dalhonsic  Sqmiro,  on  St.  Mary  St.,  nro  Mol- 
fton'a  Collpj^e  (abandoned)  and  St.  Thomas  Church  (Episcopal),  with  tho 
great  bnildini^s  of  Molson's  brewery  and  the  I'apinean  Markiit  and  Sfpiaro 
(on  which  are  the  works  of  the  Canadian  Rubber  Co.).  The  suburb  of 
Hoclielaga  (see  page  318)  is  about  1  M.  beyond  the  Papineau  Square. 

MoGill  St.  is  an  important  thoroughfare  leading  S.  from  Victoria 
Square  to  tho  river.  Considerable  wholesale  trade  is  done  here  and  in 
the  intersecting  St.  I'aul  St.  The  Dominion  and  Albert  liuildings  are 
rich  and  massive,  and  just  beyond  is  St.  Ann's  Market,  on  tin;  site  of 
the  old  i'arliament  House.  In  184!)  the  Karl  of  I'^lgin  signed  the  obnoxious 
Kebellion  Hill,  upon  which  he  was  attacked  by  a  mob,  who  also  drove  tho 
Assembly  from  the  Parliament  House,  and  burnt  the  building.  On  ac- 
count of  these  riots,  Montreal  was  decapitalized  the  same  year.  Com- 
missioners' St.  leads  E.  by  St.  Ann's  Market  and  the  elegant  Custom' 
Jfuuse  to  the  broad  promenades  on  the  river-walls.  Ottawa  St.  leads  W. 
to  the  heavy  masonry  of  the  Lachine-Canal  Basins  and  the  vicinity  of  the 
Victoria  Bridge. 

Radegonde  St.  and  Beaver-Ilall  Hill  run  N.  from  Victoria  Square,  passing 
Zion  Church,  where  the  Gavazzi  riots  took  place  in  1853.  The  armed 
congregation  repulsed  the  Catholic  assailants  twice,  and  then  the  troops 
restored  order,  40  men  having  been  killed  or  badly  wounded.  .Just  al)ove  is 
the  Baptist  Church,  overlooked  by  the  tall  Church  of  the  Messiah  (Unitari- 
an), with  St.  Andrew's  I'resbyterian  Church  on  the  r.  A  few  steps  to  the 
r.,  Lagaucheti6re  St.  leads  to  St.  Patrick's  Church,  a  stately  Gothic  build- 
ing 240  X  90  ft.,  acconitnodating  5,000  persons,  and  adorned  with  a  spire 
225  ft.  high.  The  nave  is  very  lofty,  and  the  narrow  lancet-windows  nro 
filled  with  stained  glass.  Near  by,  on  lileury  St.,  are  the  massive  stone 
buildings  of  St.  Mary's  (  ollege  (.lesuit;  9  professors)  and  the  *Church 
of  the  Gestl.  The  nave  of  the  church  (75  ft.  high)  is  bounded  by  rich 
14 


I 


314      Route  75. 


MONTREAL. 


f.: 


1 


i 


composite  columns;  and  the  transepts  are  144  ft.  long,  and  are  adorned 
with  fine  frescos  in  eliiarosciiro. 

Over  the  \\\^\\  AUnr  is  the  {'rurifixinn,  anrl  the  Adoration  of  tho  F*potless  Lamb, 
above  which  i,s  tlie  Nativity.  AKiiinf^t  the  cohinms  ot  tho  crossing  of  the  nitve  and 
transepts  are  statues  of  St.  .Mark  with  a  lion,  St  Matthe'  with  an  ox,  St.  Luke  with 
a  child,  and  St.  John  with  an  eai^le  On  the  ceiling  of  the  nave  arc  frescos  of  St. 
Thonia.s  Kepiiitant,  the  iJUeding  Lanil),  and  tiie  Virjiin  mid  Child  amid  Anfrclic 
Choirs.  Medallions  alon^r  the  nave  contain  jiortr.iits  of  ei^lit  saint.s  of  the  Ortler  of 
Je.sus  Over  the  Altar  of  the  Virgin,  in  the  1.  transept,  is  a  fresco  of  the  Trinity, 
Hear  wliich  is  a  painting  of  St.  Aloy^ius  (>on«,aga  receiving  iiis  first  conimunion  fioni 
St.  Charles  Hnrronieo,  Cardinal  Archbishop  of  Milan.  To  tl\e  r.  is  a  fresco  of  St. 
Ignatius  F.oyola  in  the  Orntto  of  Manresa,  and  on  the  1  is  Christ's  ApjiearaiKC  to 
him  near  Rome,  while  alxve  is  (Jhrist  hlessinu'  Little  Children.  Over  St.  .lo.«eph'fl 
Altar,  in  the  r.  tran.-ept,  is  a  painting  of  the  Kteriial  Father;  on  the  r.  of  which  i,s 
mother  picture,  St.  Stanislaus  Ivostka  receiving  Coninnmion  fr>ni  Angrls.  On  tho 
».  is  a  fre.-eo  of  the  Martyrd.'un  of  tno  .Jesuits  at  Niiga.^^aki  (Japan) ;  on  the  r  ia  the 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Andrew  liohola,  in  I'oland  ;  und  above  is  the  liaising  of  Lazarus. 
On  tlie  ceiling  is  the  Holy  Family  at  Work. 

Turning  now  to  the  W.  on  St.  Catherine  St.,  one  soon  reaches  *  Christ 
Church  Cathedral,  the  best  re])reseiitative  of  English  Gothic  architecture 
in  America.  It  is  built  of  Montreal  and  Caen  ; 'one,  and  is  212  ft.  long, 
'  and  100  ft.  wide  at  the  transepts.  A  stately  stone  spire  s])rings  from  the 
intersection  of  the  nave  and  transepts  and  attains  a  height  of  224  ft.  The 
choir  is  4(5  ft.  long,  is  paved  with  eticaustic  tiles,  and  contains  a  line 
stained-glass  window.  On  either  side  are  elaborately  carved  stalls  ibr 
the  clergy;  and  the  jjointed  roof  of  the  nave  (07  ft.  high)  is  sustained  by 
colunms  of  Caen  stone  whose  caj)itals  are  carved  to  represent  Canailian 
plants.  In  front  of  the  cathedral  is  a  monument  to  Hisliop  Fullbrd,  and 
on  the  N.  is  a  quaint  octiigonal  ciiapter-house,  where  the  diocesan  library 
is  kept.  The  residence  of  the  Lord  Bishop  (aiul  Metropolitan  of  (Janada) 
is  near  this  building.  One  sqmire  E.  of  the  cathedral  (corner  of  Cathcart 
and  University  Sts.)  is  the  large  and  interesting  Nnturid-II'mlory  ,}f/(seuin, 
which  is  open  to  the  public  (fee,  25  c).  Tiie  Ferrier  Collection  of  Egyptian 
Antiquities  and  the  ctises  of  Canadian  birds  are  (-f  nuicli  interest.  Farther 
out.  bjick  of  the  Hotel  Dieu,  is  the  CrijStid  PnUtcv, 

McGill  University  (500  students)  is  at  tin'  f^iot  of  Mount  Royal,  in  beau- 
tiful groinnls.  It  was  endowed  ni  1810  and  opened  in  1821,  and  has  fac- 
ulties of  Arts  (1)  jirofessors),  Medicine  (10  jnofessors),  and  Law  (8  profes- 
sors). The  Medical  School  is  N.  of  the  main  building,  and  the  Museum 
is  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  rniversity  is  under  the  charge  of  Dr.  J,  W. 
Dawson  (see  patre  LIB),  and  is  the  most  flourishing  institution  of  the  knul 
in  Canada.  Atfiliated  with  it  are  the  contiguous  Presbyterian  aiul  Wcs- 
leyaii  theoloo;ical  collcires.  and  the  Congregational  and  Anglican  Diocesan 
C(dleges.  The  reservoir  for  the  water-supply  of  Montreal  is  back  of  the 
t^niversitv,  200  ft.  above  the  river,  and  has  a  capacity  of  TjC, 500,000  gallons, 
The  water  is  taken  fiom  the  St.  Lawrence,  U  II.  above  the  Lacliin-> 
Rnnids.  ,\  rlo;r-nnt  view  nf  tVro  v''^y  rnnv  be  obi;iincd  froni  tliis  t  -oe, 
and  on  tlie  W.  is  Ravcnsci"i(/,  the  mansion  of  the  lute  Sir  llugli  Aiu't;. 


'^■i, 
<*\> 


^1 


MONTREAL. 


Route  75.       315 


In  beau- 
lias  fao- 

profi'P- 
llusoum 

J.  W. 
lie  kind 
i\  VVes> 
lioccsan 
of  the 

:,allt)n'^' 

-oe, 


The  *  Great  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpicc  and  tlie  Montreal  CoUerie  are  | 
M.  S.  W.  of  tlic  University,  and  front  on  the  same  street  (Sherbrooke). 
They  occupy  a  portion  of  the  broad  ecclesiastical  domain  which  is  known 
aa  the  Priests'  Farm.  The  incongruous  towers  in  front  of  the  main  biiild- 
inf?  pertained  to  the  ancient  collejie  of  the  17th  century,  and  were  at  that 
time  loopholed  and  held  as  a  part  of  the  defences  of  the  town  a<^ainst  the 
Iroquois  Indians.  The  Seminary  is  for  the  education  of  Roman  Catholic 
priests,  and  has  4  professors  and  112  students.  The  Montreal  Collejje  is 
for  the  education  of  Canadian  youth,  and  has  10  ecclesiastics  for  profes- 
sors and  260  students.  It  was  founded  in  1773  by  the  Sulpicians,  wlio  still 
remain  in  charire.  The  Seminary  chapel  is  worthy  of  a  visit,  and  the  jrar- 
dens  about  the  buildings  are  said  to  be  tiie  finest  in  Canada.  Slierbrooko 
St.  and  the  environs  of  Mount  lioyal  contain  many  elegant  residences. 

Dorchedtv  St.  runs  vS.  W.  from  Heaver-IIall  S(piare,  soon  crossing  Uni- 
versity St.,  on  whose  r.  corners  are  the  High  School  and  the  St.  James 
Club.  This  street  lea.ls,  on  tlie  1.,  to  the  Normal  and  Model  Schools;  and 
on  the  r.  to  the  Xatural-llistory  Museum  and  the  Cathedral.  Dorchester 
St.  passes  on  by  St.  Paul's  Church  (I.  side)  and  the  Knox  Church  (r.  side) 
to  Dominion  Square,  which  occupies  the  site  of  a  cemetery.  In  this 
vicinity  are  several  flue  churches,  —  the  Wesleyaii  Method'st,  a  graceful 
building  in  the  English  Gothic  style;  the  American  Presliyterian,  an  ex- 
act copy  of  the  Park  Church  in  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. ;  and  St.  George's  Church 
(Episcopal),  an  elegant  edifice  in  decorated  Gothic  architecture,  with  deep 
transepts,  costly  stained  windows,  a  timber  roof,  and  fine  school-buildings 
attached. 

The  new  Roman  Catholic  Catlicdral  of  St.  Peter  is  at  the  cor- 

ner of  Dorchester  and  Oeiiieterv  Sts.  It,  is  300  ft.  long  and  225  ft.,  wide  at  the  tran- 
septs;  and  is  to  be  suniioiiiited  by  a  stone  dome  250  ft.  high,  siipp  irted  on  4  piers 
(each  of  which  are  3'5  ft.  thick)  and  li'l  <'orinf,hian  columns.  4  minor  domes  are  to 
surround  this  noble  piece  of  architecture.  The  portico  is  to  rescmi  le  that  of  the 
Roman  St.  Peter'n,  surmounted  also  hy  colossal  statue."  of  the  Apostles;  and  pives 
entrance  to  tlie  vestibule,  which  is  200  ft  long  and  30  ft.  wide,  Tlu;  iiitisrior  colon- 
nades support  lines  of  round  arches  ;  and  there  are  20  minor  chapels.  The  exterior 
walls  are  very  massive,  but  extremely  plain  and  rough.  This  building  is  to  supply 
the  place  of  the  Cathedral  on  .St.  Denis  St.,  which  was  burned  in  IS.^2.  The  design 
was  conceived  by  Bishop  Bourget,  who  secured  the  land,  and  after  inspecting  numer- 
ous plana  in  dltterent  styles,  determined  to  erect  a  cathedral  like  St.  I'ercr's  (thpush 
smaller).  The  architects  went  to  Rome  and  studied  the  Vatican  Basilica  carefully, 
and  the  work  was  soon  begun.  At  present  strenuous  excirtions  are  being  made  by 
the  clergy,  monks,  and  nuns  to  procure  the  needful  funds  to  finish  the  building. 

The  Blskop''8  Palace  is  on  the  E.  of  Dominion  Square;  and  Cemetery  St. 
runs  thence  to  St.  .loseph's  Church  and  the  Bonaventure  station  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Beyond  this  point  is  the  populous  St.  Ann's 
Wavd^  toward  the  great  basins  of  the  Lachine  Canal. 

The  *  Gray  Nunnery  is  nearly  i  M.  S.  W,  of  Dominion  Square,  near 
Dorchester  St.,  and  occupies  an  immense  pile  of  stone  building*.  This 
convent  {L' Ilu^-dlal  Genlrul  <hs  Su'uig  Griscti)  was  founded  in  1747,  uad 


I 


11 


4 


316      Route  75. 


MONTREAL. 


H 

t 


i  ■ 


'M 


..>'.' t 


contains  202  nuns,  116  on  mission,  42  novices  and  postulants,  and  over  600 
patients.  It  takes  care  of  ao^ed  and  infirm  men  and  women,  orphans  and 
foundlings,  and  lu\s  large  revenues  from  landed  estates.  Over  GOO  found- 
lings are  received  every  year,  of  wliom  more  than  seven  eighths  die,  and 
the  remainder  ai-e  kept  in  the  convent  until  they  reach  the  age  of  12  years. 
Opposite  tlie  nuimery  is  ,\font  Ste.  Marie^  a  large  building  which  wms 
erected  for  a  Baptist  college,  hut  has  become  a  ladies'  boardiug-scliool 
(1G9  students)  under  the  Congregational  Nuns  of  the  Black  Nunnery,  who 
have,  in  the  city,  67  schools  and  12,000  pupils.  This  order  was  founded 
by  Marguerite  Bourgoys  in  1659. 

The  Nazareth  Asylum  for  the  Blind  is  N.  of  the  Gesfi,  on  St.  Cath- 
erine St.,  and  has  also  an  infant  school  with  over  400  pupils.  The  chapel 
is  built  in  a  light  and  delicate  form  of  Romanesque  architecture,  and  is 
richly  decorated  and  fresc  >ed.  On  the  same  squai'e  are  the  handsome 
stone  buildings  of  the  Catholic  Commercial  Academy.  To  the  E.  (  n 
Dorchester  St.)  is  the  General  I/ospiud,  with  150  beds;  the  Hospice  of  St. 
Vincent  de  Taul  (30  brethren)  and  the  Asile  de  la  Prondence  (122  nuns) 
are  near  Labelle  St.:  and  numerous  other  convents  and  asylums  are  found 
throughout  this  singular  city,  which  is  both  British  and  French,  commer- 
cial and  monastic,  progressive  and  me(lij)3val,  —  combining  American  en- 
terprise with  English  solidity  and  French  ecclesiastic  ism. 

The  *  Hotel  Dieu  de  Ville  Marie  is  about  1  M.  N.  W.  of  Great  St.  James 
St.,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  buildings  in  Canada,  The  chapel  is  a  spa- 
cious hall  over  which  is  a  dome  150  ft,  high,  frescoed  with  scenes  from  the 
life  of  the  Holy  Family.  This  institution  was  founded  in  1859,  and  is  con- 
ducted by  about  80  cloistered  nuns  of  the  Order  of  St.  ,Iosei)li.  There  are 
generally  about  500  persons  in  the  building,  consisting  of  the  nuns  and 
their  charges,  old  and  infirm  men  and  women,  orphans,  and  about  200  sick 
people.  To  the  N,  is  the  populous  French  suburb  of  St.  .lean  Baptiste 
(5,000  inhai)itants),  which  is  connected  with  the  city  by  horse-cars  on  St. 
Lawrence  Main  St. 

*  Mount  Royal  Park,  along  wooded  ridge  750  ft.  high,  covers  4'50 
acres,  and  was  bought  by  tlie  city  in  1874,  and  laid  out  by  F.  L.  Olnistoad. 
Stages  run  through  it  every  half-hour,  starting  from  the  Montreal  Post- 
Ollice,  and  passing  the  ^^iindsor  (ticket  up  nnd  back,  2oc.\  restaurant  on 
su'.nmit).  A  superb  view  is  alTordid,  including  tlie  city  and  scores  of  vil- 
lages, the  distant  Adirondacks  and  Green  IMts.,  Rouj,^eniont  and  Rclceil, 
nnd  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  and  their  lakes. 

Faint  St.  Charles  is  beyond  the  Lachine  Canal  Basins,  and  is  traversed 
by  the  tracks  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Near  the  Victoria  Bridge  is 
a  great  bowlder,  surrounded  by  a  railing,  commemorating  the  place  when; 
were  buried  0,500  Irish  immigrants,  who  died  here  of  ship-tever  in  the 
summer  of  1847.  The  *  Victoria  Bridge  is  the  longest  and  most  costly 
bridge  in  Canada.     It  consists  of  23  spans  of  242  ft.  each  (ilie  central  one. 


"^^ 


MONTREAL. 


Route  75.       317 


MS  4:'.0 
instead, 
ll  Post- 
laiit  oil 
J  (if   vil- 


330  ft.),  restinpf  on  24  piers  of  blue  limestone  masonry,  cemented  and  iron- 
riveted,  with  sliarp  wedge  faces  to  the  down-current.  The  tubes  contain- 
ing the  track  are  19  X  10  ft.  and  the  bridge  is  approached  by  abutments 
2,600  ft.  long  and  90  ft.  wide,  which,  with  the  6,594  ft.  of  iron  tubing, 
makes  a  total  length  of  9,194  ft.  from  grade  to  grude  and  over  1^  M.  from 
shore  to  shore.  The  bridge  was  commenced  in  1854,  and  finished  in  1859; 
it  contains  250,000  tons  of  stone  and  8,000  tons  of  iron,  and  cost  $  6,300,000. 
There  is  a  beautiful  view  of  the  city  from  the  central  tube. 

In  the  early  autumn  of  1535  Ja^iues  Cartier  heard,  from  the  Indians  of  Quebec, 
of  agroiiter  town  far  up  the  river.  The  tearless, Breton  chief  took  2  boats  and  50 
men,  ami  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Troquois  town  of  Ilochelaga,  occupying 
the  present  site  of  the  metropolis  of  Canada.  "  Before  them,  wrapped  in  forests 
p:iii  teu  by  the  early  frosts,  rose  the  ridgy  back  of  the  Mnuntaiu  of  Montreal,  and 
below,  encompassed  With  its  cornfields,  lay  the  Indian  town,''  surrounded  with  triple 
palisades  arr:«.iigcd  for  defence.  The  French  were  admitted  within  the  walls  and 
rested  on  the  gfat  pul>lic  s(}uare,  where  the  women  surrounded  them  in  curiosity, 
and  th !  .<i(k  and  maimed  were  brought  to  them  to  be  heal  d,  "  as  if  a  god  had  come 
down  among  them."  The  warriors  sat  in  grave  silence  while  he  read  aloud  the 
Passion  of  our  8aviour  (though  they  understood  not  a  word) ;  then  presents  were 
given  to  all  the  people,  and  the  French  trumpeters  sounded  u  warlike  melody.  The 
Indians  then  gui(h'd  tlnir  guests  to  theaununitof  the  ailjacent  mountain,  whence 
acorcs  of  leagues  of  unbroken  forest  were  overlooked.  Car'  "er  gave  to  this  fair  emi- 
nence r.he  name  of  Mont  Roi/al,  whence  is  derived  the  pre  t  .t  name  of  the  city. 

In  ll)()3  this  point  was  visited  by  the  nv>ble  Champlain,  bu.  Hochelaga  had  disap- 
peared, and  oniv  i  few  wandering  Algoiujuins  could  be  seen  in  the  country.  The 
Ir-ijuoisof  the  great  town  liad  been  drivci  to  the  8.  by  the  powerful  Algonquin- 
(snrli  is  the  Mohawk  tradition). 

At  a  later  day  a  tax-gatheivr  of  Anjou  and  a  priest  of  Paris  heard  celestial  voices, 
bidiJiiig  them  to  found  a  hospital  (Hotel  Dieu)  and  a  college  of  priests  at  Mont 
Rova!,  and  the  voices  were  followed  by  apparitions  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Saviour. 
Fillca  with  sacred  zeal,  and  brought  together  by  a  singular  accident,  tlie.se  men  won 
several  nobles  of  ^'rance  to  aid  their  cause,  then  bought  the  Isle  of  Mont  Royal, 
and  formed  the  Society  of  Notre  Dame  de  Montreal.  With  the  Lordof  Maisonneuve 
and  45  associates,  in  a  solenm  service  held  in  the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  de  Paris, 
they  consecrated  the  i<land  to  the  Holy  Family  under  the  name  of  *'  Ville  Marie  de 
Montreal  "  (Feb.,  1641).  May  18, 1642,  Maisonncuve  and  his  people  landed  at  Mon- 
treal and  raised  an  altar,  before  which,  when  high  mass  was  concluded,  t.he  priest 
said,  "  You  are  a  grain  of  muatard-seed  that  shall  arise  and  grow  until  its  branches 
overshadow  the  land.  You  are  few,  but  your  work  is  the  work  of  God.  His  smile 
is  on  you,  and  your  children  shall  fill  the  land."  The  Jlotel  Dieu  was  founded 
iu  ltU7,  and  in  1(557  the  Sulpiciaus  of  Paris  established  a  seminary  here.  In  1689, 
1,401)  I-oquois  Indians  stormed  the  western  suburbs,  and  killed  200  of  the  in- 
habitants, and  a  short  time  afterwards  <;ol.  Schuyler  destroyed  Montreal  with  troops 
from  New  York,  leaving  only  the  citadel,  which  his  utmost  etTorts  could  not  reduce. 
In  ITtiU  Lord  Amherst  and  17,000  nien  captui-efi  the  city,  which  then  had  4,000  in- 
hi  'yitants,  and  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  with  11  redoubts  and  a  citadel.  In  1775 
Eth.in  Allen  attackeil  Montreal  with  a  handful  of  Vermonters,  and  was  defeated  and 
captuix'd,  with  lOi)  of  nis  men.  Gen.  Prescott  sent  them  to  England  as  "  banditti," 
and  Allen  was  imprisoned  in  Pendennis  Castle.  In  the  fall  of  1776  the  city  was 
taken  by  the  American  army  under  Gen.  Montgomery.  U'ith  thf  close  of  the  War 
of  l>ii2,  a  brisk  commerce  set  in,  and  the  city  grew  rapidly,  having,  in  1821,  18,767 
inhabitants.  The  completion  of  tlie  Grand  Trunk  Raih-.ay  greatly  benefited  this 
place,  and  its  increase  has  for  many  years  heen  steady,  .-substintial,  and  rapid.  In 
1832  the  cholera  destroyed  1,843  persons,  out  of  a  populati  ru  of  30,000  ;  and  in  1852 
a  larg''  oart  of  the  city  was  burned.  SO  years  ago  ves.sels  of  over  300  tons  could  not 
reaclx  Montreal,  but  a  shii>-channel  has  been  cleared  by  the  exertions  of  the  mer- 
chants (headed  by  Sir  Hugh  Allan),  and  uosv  the  city  is  visited  reirularly  by  oceaa 
steauiijhips  uf  4,00o  tpus.  -and  by  the  largest  vesseiis  of  the  merchaut-murine. 


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318       Rmite7G.        "AROUND  THE   MOUNTAIN." 

76.   The  Environs  of  Montreal. 

Montreiil  is  situated  on  tlio  S.  K.  sidf  of  the  i>larul  of  Montreiil,  Avliich 
is  2b  M.  lo.ifi,  10  M.  >vide,  and  1')  M.  around.  It  is  divided  into  10  par- 
isiies,  and  is  composed  of  fertile  and  arable  soil,  su[)jM)rting  a  dense  pop- 
iilati(»n,  Tlie  favorite  drive  is  that  *  •'Around  the  Mountain,"  adistanee 
of  n  M.  Tlie  road  passes  out  by  the  Hotel  Dieu  and  through  the  suburb 
(if  St.  Jean  Baptiste  (whence  a  road  runs  E.  to  the  lirnestone-qtuirries  at 
Cott  St.  Miclitl).  At  Mik-Knd  the  carriage  turns  to  the  1.  and  soon  passes 
the  avenue  which  leads  (to  the  l.)to  the  Mount  Royal  Cemetery.  The 
road  ascends  to  higher  grades,  and  beaut iiul  views  open  on  the  N.  aii('  W., 
including  13  villages,  tlie  distant  shores  of  tiie  Isle  of  Jesus,  and  the  blight 
■waters  of  Luke  St.  Louis  and  the  Lake  of  the  Two  ^h)untains.  On  a  clear 
day  the  sj.ires  of  the  Catholic  College  of  St.  Therene  are  sei^n,  s' vcral 
leagues  to  the  N.,beNoii(l  the  Riviere  aux  Chiens.  Th(.  viiiage  of  G><e 
des  Nti(j*t>  (three  inns)  has  an  antique  church,  and  is  occupied  by  1,200 
inhabitants.  It  was  first  settled  by  families  from  Cote  des  Neiges  in 
France,  whMi  derived  its  naine  from  a  legend  that  a  miraculous  cruci- 
form fall  of  snow  took  ])iacc  there  in  August,  marking  the  place  on  which 
a  pious  citizen  afterwards  built  tlie  Church  of  Notre  Dame  des  Neiges. 
From  this  village  the  inter-mmu.tain  road  leads  E.  to  Montreal.  On  the 
lower  slope  of  Mount  Royal  a  platform  has  been  built  on  the  wall  of  the 
Seminary  grounds,  from  which  a  beautiful  *view  is  obtained.  (The  usual 
charges  for  the  ride  around  the  mountain  arc  $  l.oO  for  2-3  persons,  in  a 
cab,  or  $2  for  4  persons;  for  a  two-horse  carriage,  $4,  for  1-4  person;-..) 

A  road  turns  to  the  r.  from  Cote  des  Neiges  and  passes  around  tlie  liold 
higlilands  S.  of  Mount  Roval,  throuirh  fair  rural  scenerv.  Bevond  i!ie 
hamlet  of  Cote  St.  Luc  it  reaches  Cide  St.  Antoine,  the  seat  of  the  fine 
building  and  grounds  formerly  known  as  !Monklands,  when  the  home  of 
Governor-General  I/>rd  ' "Igin.  It  is  now  called  Villa  Maria,  a.id  is  occu- 
pied by  the  black  nuns  as  a  boarding-school.  There  are  25  sisters  and 
172  pupils,  most  of  whom  are  from  the  United  States.  Ojiposite  Villa 
Maria  is  the  Church  of  St.  Luc.  The  short  road  from  this  point  to  the 
city  is  made  interesting  by  beautiful  views  and  fair  villas,  and  for  i  M. 
after  passing  the  toll-gate  it  skirts  the  Seminary  grounds. 

The  Sault  au  Becollet  is  7  M.  W.  of  Montreal,  on  the  Rivii-ro  des 
Prairies,  and  is  frequently  visited  for  the  sake  of  its  picturesque  rapids. 
Picnic  [)arties  occupy  the  forest-covered  Priests''  Island,  wlience  the  de- 
scent of  rafts  may  be  observed.  The  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart  is 
beautifully  situated  amid  pleasant  grounds  near  the  river.  Opposite  Saulc 
au  Recoliet  is  the  Isle  Jesus,  which  is  nearly  25  M.  long,  and  contains 
fJie  villages  of  St.  Martin,  St.  Rose  de  Lima,  and  St.  Vincent  de  Paul  (near 
v.'hi^-h  is  the  Provincial  Reformatory  Prison). 

Hochelaga  is  at  the  N.  E.  end  of  the  Montreal  horse-car  line,  and  is 


X.ACHINE  RAPTDS. 


Route  70.       319 


)n  the 
of  the 

usual 

,  in  a 

bold 
(i  ihe 
fine 
e  of 
ocou- 
anrt 
Villa 
to  the 
k  M. 

re  cle9 
Lipids. 
lie  de- 
lart  is 
1  StiuU 
n  tains 
(near 

md  is 


the  point  whtre  the  Northern-Colonization  and  North-Shore  Railways 

terminate.  It  hns  a  <?oo(l  harbor  on  the  St.  I.awronco,  bolow  the  Rstpid 
of  St.  Mary.  There  are  several  fitit^  villas  here,  and  tlie  *  Connut  <*/  the 
Sacred  Xame  of, /I'Hiii^  and  M(iri/ is  the  nio>t  extensive^  monastic  institu- 
tion in  ("anaila  llocheiaua  is  ;j  M.  (Von>  the  X'ictoria  Hridiic;  and  3-4 
M.  farther  K  is  Lorujue  Point,  near  wliich  the  late  Sir  (Jeor<r(>  K.  Cartier 
resided.  The  river-road  gives  views  of  Longueuil,  Boucherville,  and 
Vareiuies,  on  tlic  S.  shore. 

Lachine  (three  hotels)  is  9  M.  S.  W.  of  Montreal,  and  is  a  favorite 
summer-resort  of  the  citizens.  The  river-road  is  very  pietures(ine;  and 
the  upper  road  runs  through  the  manufaeturing  town  called  Titnnenj 
West,  which  has  over  4,000  inhabitants.  Visitors  usually  go  out  on  one 
road  and  return  by  the  otiier.  Lachine  is  at  the  foot  of  Lake  St.  Louis, 
and  is  noted  for  its  annual  regattas.  It  was  so  named  by  Champlain  in 
1613,  because  he  believed  that  be.  md  the  rapids  the  river  led  to  China 
{La  Chine).  In  1689  the  Iroquois  Indians  destroyed  the  French  town  here, 
with  all  its  inhabitants,  200  of  whom  were  burnt  at  the  stake.  Opposite 
Lacdiine  is  the  populous  village  of  CaiujhnamKja.  iidiabitcMl  by  about  500 
of  the  orderly  and  indolent  descendants  of  the  Iroquois  Indians,  whoa  e 
governed  by  a  council  of  seven  chiefs. 

The  *Lacine  Rapids  may  be  visited  hv  taking  the  5  p.  M.  train  to  La- 
chine, or  the  l.'iO  v.  m.  train  t<»  St,  Anne's  (50  cents  for  tiie  round-trip  by 
Lachine;  HO  cents  l)y  St.  Amui's),  where  a  steamer  is  in  waiting,  by  which 
the  tourist  returns  through  the  rapids  to  Montreal.  After  taking  a  pilot 
from  Caughnawaga,  the  steamer  passes  out. 

"  SudJenly  a  sceno  of  wi'.d  grainleur  bursts  upon  the  eye.  Waves  are  lashed  into 
spray  and  into  bveakcM's  of  a  tliousand  forms  by  tlio  suluncrgt'd  rocks  whicli  they 
are  d;vshed  asiiinst  in  the  hi  'idloni;  impetuosity  of  the  river.  Whirlpools,  a  storm- 
lashed  sea,  the  eii;-sm  below  Nii<i;ara,  all  mingle  their  sublimity  in  a  siiigl(>  rajnd. 
Now  passing  with  liglitninu;  sueeil  within  a  few  yards  of  rocks,  which,  did  yonr  ves- 
sel but  touch  them,  would  reduce  her  to  an  utter  wreck  befor(>  the  crash  conld 
sound  upon  the  ear ;  did  she  even  diverge  in  the  least  from  her  course,  —  if  her 
head  were  not  kept  straigiit  with  the  course  of  the  rapid,  —she  would  be  instantly 
submerged  and  rolled  over  and  over.  Before  us  is  an  absolute  iirecipic(>  of  waters  ; 
on  every  side  of  it  breakers,  like  dense  avalanches,  are  thrown  hisrh  into  the  air. 
Ere  we  can  tiike  a  glance  at  the  scene,  the  ))oat  descends  the  wall  of  wave^,:  and  foam 
like  a  bird,  and  in  a  second  afterwards  you  arelioating  on  the  calm,  unrulHed  bosom 
of  '  below  the  rapids.'  ■' 

The  steamer  tlien  passes  under  the  central  arch  of  the  VictoriM  Bridge  (see  page 
31')),  and  opens  an  imposing  panoramic  *view  of  the  city  (Tickets  for  the  rouud- 
trip  cost  50  c.  ;  and  the  tourist  gets  back  to  Montreal  about  9.30  A.  m  ) 

The  Belceil  Mountain  may  be  visited  in  a  day  by  taking  the  Grand 
Trunk  Kailway  to  St.  Hilaire,  whence  the  moutitain  is  easily  ascended, 
passing  a  pretty  little  lake.  On  this  peak  (1,400  ft.  al)ove  th°i  St.  Law- 
rence) the  Bishu])  of  Nancy  erected  an  oratory  surtTiounted  by  a  huge  tin- 
covered  cross  which  was  visible  for  over  30  M.  The  cross  v«-ns  blown  down, 
sever.al  years  ago.  The  *view  from  BelaMl  itv-ludes  a  radius  of  80  M  over 
the  fertile  and  thickly  settled  plains  of  the  St.  Lawrenc;-  Valley,  with  the 
blue  mountains  of  Vermont  far  awr.y  in  the  S.  K.  The  Boiiehev-ille  .lfo?m- 
taiji  is  reached  from  St.  Bruno,  a  station  on  the  Grand  Tnmk  Railway, 


i 


i 

I 
ill 


I 


■  ■<. 


it 


I  <4^ 


320     lioute  76. 


OTTAWA. 


The  Ir(i(ju<m  FFtime,  on  n  platoau  of  tlu'  Pjtjla'il  Mts.,  1,000  ft.  high,  and 
roar  a  lakf.  -'J  M.  aiouiul,  accuniniodatos  400  guest'^,  at  .S3  a  day,  .'i?  10 -IG 
a  week.  It  is  2^  ]\I.  from  St.  TTilairi'  station  on  tho  Grand-Trunk  line  (25 
M.  from  Montreal).    Boating,  i)atliing,  hilliards,  livery  stable,  lisliing.  etc. 

St.  Anne  (du  Bout  dt  V hit)  is  21  M.  S.  W.  of  Montreal,  and  may  be 
reached  in  an  hour  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Kaihvay.  It  is  a  village  of  1,000 
iidiabitants,  with  two  inns,  and  has  an  ancient  church  which  is  much 
revered  by  the  Canadian  boatmen  and  nujdf/eurs.  Many  of  the  people  of 
Montreal  visit  this  place  during  the  snnnner.  The  village  is  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  railway,  between  Lake  St.  Louis  (of  the  St.  Lawrence)  and 
the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains  (of  the  Ottawa  River).  The  Ottawa  if 
here  crossed  by  a  fine  railway-bridge,  resting  on  16  stone  piers;  and  the 
famous  Rapids  of  St.  Anne  are  Hanked  by  a  canal.  Here  Tom  Moore 
wrote  his  Cun'idian  Boat-Song,  begiiniing:  — 

"  Faintly  as  tolls  the  evening  chime. 
Our  voii'os  keep  tune,  and  our  oars  keep  time. 
Soon  as  the  woods  on  shore  look  dim 
We'll  sing  at  St   Anne's  our  parting  hymn. 
How,  brothers,  row  ;  the  stream  runs  fast, 
The  Rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight  "s  past. 

"  Uttawa's  tide  !  this  trembling  moon 

Shall  see  us  float  o'er  thy  siu-ges  soon. 

Saint  of  this  green  isle  !  hear  our  jirayers  ; 

0>  grant  us  cool  lieavens  and  favoring  airs  I 
Blow,  breezes,  blow  ;  the  stream  runs  fast. 
The  Rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight  "d  past." 

Steamers  run  daily  up  the  Ottawa  River  to  Ottawa  {Russell  Hotel),  the  capital 
of  Canada.  The  Ciiuadian  **l*arllamei»t  House  is  situated  on  a  lofty  bluff 
over  the  Ottawa  River,  and  is  the  finest  specimen  of  Italian  Gothic  architecture  in 
America  or  the  world.  The  great  *  Victoria  Tower  in  the  centre  of  the  fagade  is  im- 
posing in  its  proportions  ;  and  the  polygonal  structure  of  the  Dominion  Lihrarj/ i$\n 
the  rear  of  the  buildings.  The  halls  of  the  Senate  and  Chamber  of  Conmious  are 
worthy  of  a  visit,  and  are  adorned  with  stained-glass  windows  and  marble  columns. 
In  the  Senate  is  a  statue  of  Queen  Tictoria,  and  near  the  vice-regal  throne  are  busts 
of  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales.  The  departmental  buildings  which  flank  the 
Parliament  House  are  stately  structures,  in  harmonious  architecture,  and  of  the 
same  kinds  of  stone.  The  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  and  the  nuiuieries  of  the  lower 
town  are  interesting ;  also  the  new  churches  of  the  middle  town  (which,  like^the 
rest  of  the  city,  is  still  undergoing  a  formative  process).  The  **Chaudlere 
Falls  are  just' above  the  city,  where  the  Itroad  Ottawa  River  plunges  down  over 
long  and  ragged  ledges.  In  this  vicinity  an;  immense  lumber-yards,  with  the  con- 
nected industries  which  support  the  French  Canadians,  who  form  the  majority  of 
the  citizens  here  S.  of  the  city  are  the  pretty  Birlfnu  Falls.  Steamers  depart  fre- 
quently for  Montreal,  and  for  th>  remote  forests  of  t'lO  N. 


X-i. 


?  >; 

'Ml 


.■■''■.  •D^'p" 


I,  and 
10-lG 
i\e  (25 
.etc. 
ifxy  be 

r  1,000 

much 
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[le  dls- 
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aw  a  i? 
nd  the 

Jloore 


capital 
fty  blutf 
ecture  in 
ule  is  im- 
irnri/'isin 
iiunis  are 
columns, 
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like^the 
lutUere 
own  over 
the  con- 
ijority  of 
upart  fre- 


Abattis,  P.  Q.  292. 
Advo.ate  Harbor  103,  80. 
Agulquac  Uivcr  iyi. 
AimWc  (lleii  li)7,  lt)9. 
Albert  Bridge,  C.  B.  154. 
Albert  Mines,  N.  B.  72. 
Alberton,  P.  E   I.  179. 
Albion  Mines,  N.  S.  13G. 
Aldouin  Uiver,  (50. 
AU'iuek  Bay,  N.  B.  63. 
Alexander  I'oint  (J3. 
Alexi.-)  River  225 
Allufjfasli  River,  Me.  58. 
AUandale,  N.  B.  52. 
Alrijrht  1(1.  184. 
Alston  I'oint,  N.  B.  65. 
Amherst,  \.  S.  78,  74. 
Amherst  Id.  183. 
Ancienne  Lorettc  281,  279. 
Andover,  N.  B.  54. 
An},'o<Jardien,  P.  Q.  283. 
Annaiidale,  P.  E   1    182. 
Annapolis  Basin,  N.  S.  84. 
Annapolis  Royal  85. 
Annapolis  Valley  88. 
Antieosti  234. 
Anti'.ronish,  N.  S.  138. 
Apohariui.  N.  B.  71,  48. 
Apiile  River,  N.  S.  80. 
Apsev  (^)ve.  N    F.  210. 
Acimifort,  N.  V.  198. 
ArdoiseMt.,N.  S.  93. 
Arj^entenav,  P.  Q.  290. 
Ar!j;vle,  N."^a.  116,  125. 
Arifhat,  C.  B.  145- 
Arisaifi,  N    S.  139. 
Aroostook  Vallev,  Me.  55. 
Arthurette,  N.  B.  54. 
Aspoto^'on  Mt.,  N.  S.  127. 
Aspv  Bav,  C.  B.  160. 
Athol.  N.  B.  80. 
Atlantic  Cove,  0.  B.  160. 
Aiilac,  N.  B,  74 
Avalon,  N.  F.  198,  209. 
Avonport,  N.  S  91. 
AyUxford,  N.  S.  S9. 
Aylessford  Lakes  90. 

Baccalieu  Id.,  N.F.  201,205. 
14* 


INDEX. 


Baccaro  Point,  N  S.  123. 
Bad(leek,0.  B.  162. 
Baddt'ck  River.  167. 
Hafiutville,  P.  Q.  302. 
Haie  des  Rochers,  P.  Q.  295 
Haie  St.  Paul,  P.  Q.  292. 
Haie  Verte,  \    S.  74. 
Ballard  Bank,  The  199 
Ballyhaly  Boir,  N.  F.  195. 
Bangor,  Me.  39. 
Barachois,  N.  B.  59. 
Bareneed,  N.  F.  207. 
Barnaby  Id.,  P  Q.  250. 
Barra.  Slraitof  164. 
Barrd  Ids.,  N.  F.  210. 
Barrow,  N.  F.  214. 
Barrington,  N.  S.  124. 
Barton,  N.  S.  112. 
Basin  of  .Mina«  101,  108. 
Basque  Harbor  183. 
Bas([ue  Island  251. 
Bass  River  81. 
Bathurst,  N.  B.  65,  61. 
Batiscan,  P.  Q.  307. 
Batteau  Harbor  225. 
Battery  Point,  N.  B.  68. 
Battle  Id., Lab.  224,  200,206, 
Bay,  Argyle,  N.  S.  116. 

Belleisle,  N.  B.  42. 

Bona  vista,  N.  F.  203. 

Botnio,  Lab.  219. 

Bradore,  Lab.  230. 

Bulls,  N.  F.  194,  197. 

Canada, N   F.  221. 

Cardigan,  P.  E.  I.  175. 

Conei.ption,N.F  195,206. 

De  (J  rave,  N.F.  2U7. 

DuVin,N.  B.  61. 

East,  C.  B.  147. 

Esquimaux,  Ijab  230. 

Eternity,  P  Q.  'Mi. 

Fortune,  N.  F.  214. 

Garia.  N.  F.  215 

Ha,  Ha,  P,  Q.  301. 

Hairs,  N.  F.211. 

Tlorm-itagc,  N.  F  215. 

Hillsborough  174,  175. 

Ingornacho'x  219. 

Keanebecasis  4(\ 


Bay,  Little,  N.  F.  215. 

Mahmie,  N.  S.  118,127, 

Miramiehi,  N.  B.  61. 

Oak,  N.  B.  ;M. 

of  CUaleur  W,  240. 

of  Despair  215- 

of  Fair  and  Fal.se  203, 

of  Fundy  31,83. 

of  Islands  218. 

of  Notre  Dame,  N.  F.  210. 

of  St.  .lohn  219. 

Plaeentia,  N.  F  212. 

lliehmond,  P,  E.  I.  178. 

Roberts,  N.F.  207. 

St.  Anne's,  C.  B.  158 

St.  (Jeorge's,  N.  F.  217, 

St.  John's,  P.  Q  304. 

St.  Margaret's  126,  118. 

St.  Mary's  112,  213. 

Sandwich,  Lab.  225. 

Trinity,  N.  F.  208,  201. 

Verd,  N.  P.  201,208. 

White,  N.  F  221. 
Beach,  The  206. 
Bear  Cove  93 
Bear  l»oint  14-3. 
Hear  River  85. 
;Beanb.iir'.s  Id.,  N.  B.  63, 
Beaulieu,  P.  Q  2H9. 
Beaumont,  P.  Q  254. 
Beau  port,  P.  Q.  276. 
Beaver  Bank,  N   S.  93 
Beaver  Harbor,  0.  B.  162, 
Beaver  Harbor,  N.  B.  31. 
Beaver  Harbor,  N.  S.  132. 
Beaver  River  114. 
Becancour,  P  "Q.  ,307. 
Bede(iue  Bay,  P   E   I.  174. 
Bedford  Basin,  N.S   100. 
Bellecha.sse  Id.  2.54. 
Belledune,  N.  B  66. 
Belle  Isle  220,  206. 
Belleisle  Bay,  N.  B.  42. 
Bell  Lsle,  N.  F.  221. 
Belleorem,  N   P.  214. 
Bclliveau  Cove,  N.  S.  112. 
IBelliveau  Village  73. 
iBeloeil  Mt..  P  Q.  319. 
jBeuacadie  Point  165. 

U 


IS 


n22 


INDEX. 


I' 


^  {♦ 


lU'niiiore  2»^0. 
J{(T.siiiii.s  River  233. 
JW'rthier  tti  has  2fA. 
IJtTtluer  en  haul  JJOS. 
Bit  wick,  N.  S.  IM). 
l»ic  1.1. ,  V.  Q   201. 
Hij?  Lorun,  C.  W   154. 
IJif?  raiicook  !d.  1^8. 
Jli(liU'tto,  1».  Q.  251. 
\Vw\\  Point  tVl. 
Hiichtown.N   S.  121. 
Uird  Island  Cove  2U2. 
IJird  Isk's  184. 
Bird  Hock  161. 
Black  Bay  228. 
Black  Brook  HI. 
Blackhead  VM. 
Black  lioad  Cove  210. 
Black  I'uint,  N.  S.  122. 
Black  River,  N.  F.  212. 
Black  River,  IV  Q.  2'J5. 
Blaiiclierotte,  V..  H.  147. 
Blanc  Sabloii,  Lab   229. 
Blandtord,  N    H.  27. 
■  Blind  Lake,  N   S   126. 
^Bii.<s  Id  ,  N    B.  ,S1. 
Blissville,  N.  B  49. 
Blockliou.-e  Mines  153. 
Bloniidon,Cave  1(I2,  103. 
Bloody  Bay,  N.  V.  2U3 
B1o(kIv  Hridj^e  7!) 
Bloody  l{rook,  N   S.  89. 
Blow-UK'-Down  Head  207. 
Blue  Mts.,  X.  S.  00,  115. 
Blue  Pinion,  N.  V  214. 
Blue  Rocks,  N.  S.  118. 
Boar's  Back,  N.  S.  82. 
Boar's  Head,  N.  B.  40. 
Boiestown,  N.  B.  47,  62. 
Boisdale  162. 
Bona  mi  Point  67. 
Bonajiarte  Lake  36 
Bonaventure  Id. 243. 
l$ona vista  Bay,  N  _F.  203. 
Bonlioniine,  Le  307. 
Bonne  Bay  219 
Bonne  Esjierance  Bay  230 
Bonnv.  Lab  230 
Bon  Portajre  M   124. 
Bonshaw,  P.  E.  1    174. 
Bothwell,  P.  E   I   182. 
Boucherville,  P.  Q  309. 
Bnularderie,  V,   R.  161. 
Bout  del- Isle  308 
Bradford's  Cove  '.9. 
Bradore  Bay,  Lftb  230. 
Brae,  P.  E.  I.  179. 
Braha,  N.  F  221. 
Branch,  N.  F   212 
Brandies.  The  201 
Brandv  Pot>  252,  296. 
Bnis  d'Or,  The  161 

J'lc-ioii,  V  aptr  ity,    i»>t. 

Bridgeport,  0.  B.  152. 


Bridgetown,  N.  S.  8R. 
BridKeton,  P.  E   J.  182. 
Bridj;e\vater  128,  119. 
Brij::;i's  Coriu'r  49 
Bri^'iiton.N   S.  112, 
Brians,  N.  F.  207. 
Bristol,  N.  B.  51. 
Broad  Cove,  N.  B.  29. 
Bn  ad  Cove,  N.  F  2o3. 
Broad  Cove,  N.  8   120. 
Broad  Cove  Intervale  169. 
Brooktield,  N.  S.  82,  130. 
Brooklyn,  N.  S.  93. 
Brookvale,  N   B.  48. 
Brovle  Harbor  197. 
Brucker's  Hill  26. 
Brule  Harbor  81. 
Brunet  Id  214. 
Bryant's  Cove  207 
Buctouche,N.  B  59. 
Bull  Ann,  N.  F.  209. 
Bull  Moose  Hill  41. 
Hur^'eo,  N,  F.  215. 
Bur}j;()yne's  Ferry  51. 
Burin.  N.  F.  214;  212. 
Burliufrton,  N   S  93. 
Burnt  Cliurch  62,63. 
lUn-nt  Head  207. 
Burnt  Ridj?e202. 
Burton,  N.  B   43. 
Burying  Place  211. 
Butter  Puis,  The  199. 

Cacouna,  P.  Q. 296,  252. 
,(    iais,  Me.  35. 
iCaledonia  Corner  130. 
iCalli'Jre,  P.  Q  295. 
'('alvaire,  Miq.  185 
Calvairc,  P,  Q  306. 
Canibridiie,  N-  B   42. 
iCanibrioi,  N.  F  214. 
jCanipbell  River  55. 
Cinnpbelitnn,N.  B.  68. 
Caniillo,  Mt.  249 
iCanipobello  Id.  25. 
Caniuui  River  72. 
Canada  Rav  221. 
Canada  Crvek  9<\ 
Cannine,  N.  B.  43. 
Canning,  N.  S.  91. 
(^an.><o  142. 
Canterbury  37,  52. 
Cap  .t  r  Aisle  294. 

an  Corlieau  292. 

de  lr»  ^Ligdelaine  307. 

de  Meule  184. 

Rouge  281. 

St.  Ignace  253. 
Cape  Ah-ight  184. 

Anguille,  N.  F.  217 

Ballard,  N.  F.  21';. 

Bauld,_\.  F.^220. 

Bea-  175.  181. 

Blomidon,  91,  102, 103. 


Cape  BlufF,  Lab.  226. 
Breton,  149,  154 
Brovle,  N.  F,  197. 
Canso,  N.  S   134, 142. 
Chapeau  Rouge  214,  189. 
Cliatte,  P.  Q.  249. 
Chignecto,  N.  S.  104. 
Cove,  N.  S.  114 
Cove,  P.  Q.  241. 
Colonibier,  P   Q.  233. 
Corneille,  294. 
Dauphin  158,  161. 
Desolation  226. 
Despair,  P.  Q.  241. 
Diahle,  P.  Q  252. 
d'Or,  N.  a.  103. 
East,  P.  Q.  301. 
Egmont,  P.E.I.  174,179. 
Engli.-<h,  N.  F.  213. 
Enrag  ■,  N.  B  72. 
Eternity,  P.  Q.  803. 
Fogo,N.  F.  204,210. 
Fourchu,  N.  S.  125. 
Freels,  N.  F  203,  213. 
Gusp',  P.  Q   246. 
George,  P.  Q  304. 
(ioose  294 
Grand  Bank  214. 
Gribaune  291. 
.lourimain  59,  73. 
Kildare  180. 
Labaie  292 
Lahave,  N.  S.  120. 
La  Ilune  215. 
Largent  202. 
Mabou,C.  B   168. 
Magdclaine  248. 
Mai  I  lard  292 
Marangouin  73. 
Morien,  C.  B.  153. 
Negro,  N.  S.  122. 
Norman,  N.  F  220. 
North,  C.  B.  160. 
Perrv,  C   B   153. 
Pine,  N.  F.  213. 
Porcupine,  N.  S.  144. 
It^ice,  N.  F   199,  189. 
Rav,N.  F.217,  216. 
Rhvimore,  C.  B   147. 
Ridge,  N.  F.  203. 
Ro.<evvav,N.  S.  121. 
Rosier  247,  246. 
Rouge  291. 
Sable,  N.  S.  123. 
St.  Anne  249 
St  Francis  201,  225,  301 
St.  George  21H 
St   Lawrence  160,  170. 
St.  Michael  225 
St.  Nicholas  233. 
Sar^brollS,93. 
Smoky,  C.B.  159. 
Spear,  N.  V.  189,  196. 
Spencer  104,  83. 


INDEX. 


323 


Iw. 


Cap«  split,  N  a.  104. 

Touriiu-iiio2h7,2n3. 

Toiiriiioiitii  «•  59,  73,  174 

Tnivt'r,''e  114. 

Trinity,  P.  Q.  303. 

Tivoii,  I'.  E.  I   178. 

Victoria,  P.  Q.  304. 

West  302. 

Wliittle,  Lab,  230. 

Wolfe  179. 
Cupliii  Cove  198. 
Carafjuettc  fitj,  02. 
C'arbonear,  N.  F.  208. 
Cardigan,  N.  B.  60. 
Cardigan,  P.  E.  I.  181. 
Curlbacon  145. 
Caribou  Id.  176,  224. 
Caribou  Plain.-*  HO. 
Caribou  Point  233. 
Carleton,  N    13.  24. 
Carleton,  P.  Q.  239. 
Carrouwl  Id.  233 
Cascapediao  Hay  240. 
Ca.^ounipec  ISO. 
Ca.stli!  Id.,  Lab.  227. 
Catalina,  N   F.  20l. 
Catalogue.  C.  B.  154. 
Cfitaratouv  280. 
<.  at  Cove  221. 
4  lauglmawaga  319. 
(!avendi.sli,  P.  iti.  I,  178. 
\,'averue  de  Bontenips  290. 
Cawoe  Td.s.  233. 
Central  Falmouth  91. 
<Jentre  Hill  209. 
Chaleur,  Bay  of,  64 ,  240. 
Chanicook  Mt.  SH. 
Cliantplaiii,  P.  Q.  307. 
Chance  Harbor  31. 
Change  Id.*.  205.  210. 
Chitnnel,  N.  F  21t) 
Cha])el  Id  ,C.  B.  147. 
Charlesbourg,  P  Q.  279. 
Charlottetown,  P.  K.  1. 175- 
Ch.iteau  Bay,  Lab.  227- 
Ch.tteau  Beilevne  287. 
Chateau  Bigot  280. 
Chateau  Richer  2H4. 
Chatham,  N.  B.  HI,  66. 
Ciiaudiere  Falls  282. 
Chebucto  Head  93. 
Chedabucto  l?ay  143. 
Chester,  N.  S.  127,  90. 
Cheticamp,  C   B.  170. 
Cheticamp,  N.  S.  114 
(Uieza'teook,  N.  S.  131. 
Chicoutimi.  P.  Q.  .300. 
(^liignectn,  Cape,  104. 
Cbignecto  Peninsula  79. 
Cbinuiey  Tickle  2ti7. 
Chiputneticook  Lakes, N.  B. 

3S,  46. 
Chivirie  93,  102,  106. 
Chouse  Brook  221. 


ClhouxIdB.  161. 
Clairvaux.  P.  Q.  292. 
Clare,  N.  8.  113. 
Clarendon,  N.  B.  38. 
ClenientHjif'-V  N.  S.  85. 
Clementsv:  \  %. 
Clifton,  N.  ii.  66,  71. 
Cloue  Sound  203. 
Cloridornie  248. 
Clouds,  The,  221. 
Clyde  River,  N.  S.  124. 
Coacocho  River  231. 
Cobetjuid  Mts.,  N.  S.  80. 
Cocagne,  N.  B.  69. 
Colebrooke,  N.  B.  56. 
Cole's  Id.  N.  B.  47. 
Colinct,  N.  F.  213. 
Columbe  215 
Conception  Bay  195,  206, 
Couche,  N.  l\  221. 
Contreconur,  P.  Q.  308. 
Cor  bin,  N.  F.  214. 
Cornwallis  Valley,  N.  S. 

103,  107. 
Corny  Beach  243. 
Cote  deBeauprc,  283. 

des  Neiges  318. 

St.  Antoine  318. 

St  Luc  318. 

St.  Michel  318. 
Cottel's  Id.  203. 
Coudres,  Isle  aux  293. 
('ountry  Harbor  133. 
Covehead,  P.  K   I.  181. 
Cow  Bay  101,150,1.%. 
Cox's  Point  49. 
(.Irabb's  Brook  217. 
Crane  Id  ,  P.  Q.  253. 
Crapaud,  P.  E.  I.  174. 
Creignish  168. 
Oroque  N   F.  221. 
Cross  Id.,N.  S.  118. 
[Cumberland  Bay  49. 
Cumberland  Harbor  230 
Cupids,  N.  F.  207. 

Dalhousie,  N.  B.  67. 
Dalibaire,  P.  Q.  249. 
Dark  Cove,  30. 
Lartmouth,  N.  S.  101. 
Dauphinev's  Cove  126. 
Davis  Strait  226. 
Dead  Ids.  216,  225. 
Deadnia3i's  Isle  184. 
Dcbee  Junction  37. 
Del.ert  SO,  105. 
Deej)  Cove  127. 
Deerfield,  N    S    115. 
Deer  Harbor  209. 
Deer  Isle,  N.  B.  25. 
Dwr  Lake  37. 
I)H,.r  Pond  219. 
Demoiselle  Hill  183 
Denys  River,  C.  B.  165. 


90, 


De  Sable  174. 
iXwente  des  Femmes  302. 
Descliaiitbault  JilMj. 
D'E.scousi'e,  C.  B.  145. 
Despair,  Bay  of.  216. 
DesfMiir,  Cap*?,  241. 
Devil  Id.  93. 
Devil'a  Back,  N.  B.  41. 
Devil's  (ioose-Pa.sture  90. 
Devil's  Head  34. 
Diable  Bay  228. 
Digby. N.  S.  84. 
Digby  Neck  116. 
Dipper  Harbor  31. 
Distre.s8  Cove  212. 
Dodding  Head  214. 
Dollannan  Bank  202. 
D'Or,  Cape,  N   S.  103. 
Dorchester,  N.  B.  73. 
Doucet's  Id.  N   B.  34. 
Douglas  Harbor  49. 
Douglastown,  N.  B.  62. 
Douglastown,  P.  Q.  244. 
Douglas  Valley  38. 
Dumfries,  N   B.52. 
Dundas,  N.  B.  59. 
Dundas,  P   E.  I.  182. 
Dunk  River  174. 

Rirltown,N.  S.  136. 
East  Bay  147,  im,  214. 
Eastern  Pas.sage  93. 
East  Point  182. 
Eastport.  Me.  26. 
East  River  126,  225. 
Ebtmlements,  Les,  294. 
Ecb..  Take  131. 
Ecoi   .  Mv  Point  105,  80. 
Ecureui  .V  Les,  306. 
Eddv  Point  143. 
F^dmundston,  N.  B.  57. 
Edoobekuk, C  B.  147. 
Eel  Brook  .30. 
Egg  Ids.,  Lab.  233. 
Ekum  Sekuni.  N.  S.  132. 
Elleishou.«e,  N.  S.  93. 
Elliot  River  174. 
Elm.«i..ale,  N.  S  82. 
Elv.sian  Fields,  N.  S.  79. 
Enfield,  N.  S.  82. 
English  Harbor  201. 
English  Harbor  West  214. 
Englis,   '*oint233. 
Engli.shtown,  C.  B   158. 
Enni.skil!fc.i,N.  B.  38. 
Entry  Id.  184 
E.*casoni,  C.  B.  148. 
Escuniinac  Pc.  it  61. 
Esouimaux  Bay  230,  244. 
r.   rrity  Bay  303. 
':     •  >its  Id.'206.  210. 
:   :i.  iit8,  River  rr 210. 
jFa.   '       Dale.  M    S.  89. 
iFaiiv.u^  ,  N.  B.  37. 


I| 


9 


I  1 


:;'li 


1  '^1 


32^ 


INDEX. 


w 


I  ll1 ' 


I 

% 

'9. 


I' 


Fairy  Uke,  N.  S.  130. 
Falkland,  N.S.  9(),'J3. 
Falls,  Chaudiere  2S2,  320. 

Chlcoutimi,  l»  Q.  300. 

Grand  r>6,  60. 

Grand, N   F. 210. 

Gmnde-Mere  307. 

Lorettc',  P.  Q.  278. 

Mapifcuadavif  32. 

Manitousin  232. 

Montiiion;nri  277. 

N'ictau,  N.  S  89. 

North  River  105. 

I'  ibineau,  N.  B.  66. 

I'okiok,  N.  B  62. 


n   >)■ 


Pollett  72. 

Rideau,  Ont.  320 

Riviere  uu  liOiip  295. 

Riviere  du  Hud  253. 

St.  Aune,  P.  Q.  286. 

Sault  a  la  Pncc  284. 

Shawanefjan  307. 

Sissihoo,  N.  S.  J 12. 
Falmouth,  N.  S.  91 
JarminKton,  N.  S.  89. 
Fath(>r  Point,  P.  Q.  250. 
Fergt'son's  Cove  lOl. 
Fernieuse,  N.  F.  198. 
Fern  Ledges  24. 
Ferry  land,  N.  F.  198. 
Fish  Head  30. 
Five  Ids  ,N.  S.  105,  80. 
FlaKg's  Cove  29. 
Fleiirant  Point  07. 
Flint  Id.,C.  B.  150,153. 
FlorenceviJle,  N.  li.  53. 
Flower  Cove  219. 
Fogo,  N.  F. 204. 
Folly  Pass,  N.  S.  80. 
Forks,  The  48,  54. 
Fort  Beau')assin  74,  78. 
Fort  Beauscjour  74,  78. 
Fort  Cumberland  74,  78. 
Forteau,  Lab.  228 
Fort  Fairficild,  Me.  54. 
Fort  Ingalls,  N.  B.  58. 
Fort  .Jaquos  Car  tier  306. 
Fort  Kent,  Me.  58. 
Fort  Lawrence  74,  78. 
Fort  Meductic-,N.  B  52,46. 
Fort  Nat<c-opie,  Lab.  226. 
Fort  Norwest,  Lab.  226. 
Fortune,  N.  F  214. 
Foster's  Cove  54. 
Fourchette,  N.  F.  221. 
Fourrlm,  C.  B.  147. 
Fox  Harbor,  N.  S.  103,81. 
Fox  H:irbor,  Lab.  224. 
Fox  River  248. 
Framboise,  C.  B.  147. 
Frazer's  Head  104. 
Fredericton,  N.  B.  44. 
Fredericton  June.  38. 
French  Cross,  N.  S.  89.        iGraad  Rustico  178. 


Pf  nch  Fort  Cnwk  180. 

French  Liike  48. 
Frenchman'H  «  .    "214. 
French  River  l;i8. 
Frtncl.  Shore,  The  216. 
Fn  iich  Village  151. 
Frenchville,  Me.  57. 
Freshwater  Bay  203. 
Friar's  Faec  26. 
Frozen  Ooean  130. 
Funk  Id.,  N.  F.  204. 

GabarusBav  154,149. 
Gfit^etown,  N.  B.  42,  48. 
Gairloch,N.  H.  136. 
Galantry  Head  185. 
(Jauibo  Ponds  203. 
(hinder  Bav  210. 
(Jannet  Rock,  N.  B  29. 
Gannet  Rock  184. 
Gari.a  Bav  215. 
Garnish,  \.  F.  214. 
Gaspr,  P.  Q.  •2Ai. 
Gas|i«'reaux  Lake  90. 
Gay's  River,  N.S   82. 
Geiitilly,  P.  Q.  307. 
(jieorjj((  Id.  179. 
George's  Id.,N.  S.  98. 
(}eor>,'etown,P.  E.I.  181,175. 
Gibson,  N.  B  49. 
Gilbert's  Ove  112. 
Glace  Bav  Wi.  160. 
Glengiirr/,  N.  ■^.  136. 
Goatl'!     .>).  S85. 
Godii-  It.  L!.;>  233. 
Golden viik',"f.  S.  133. 
Gold  Rivei  l'J8. 
Gondola  Point  71. 
(fooscberry  Isles,  203. 
Goose  Id.  253. 
Gouffre,  Le  293. 
Gowrie  Mines  153. 
Grand  Anse,  C.  B.  146. 
Grand  Anse,  N.  B.  66. 
Grand  Banks,  The  199. 
Graiul  Bay  40. 
Grand  Di^ue  145. 
(Jrande  Baie  302. 
Grande-Mere  Falls  307. 
Grand  Falls,  I^b.  226. 
Grand  Falls,  N.  B.  55. 
Grand  Greve,  P.  Q.  244. 
Grand  Harbor  29. 
Grand  Lake  36,  48. 
Gmnd  Lake  Stream  35. 
Grand  Manan  28. 
Grand  Narrows  164. 
Grand  Pond  218,  211. 
Grand  Pre  107,91,101. 
Grand  River,  C.  B.  147. 
Grand  River,  N.  B.  56. 
Grand  River  241. 


(Jrandy'B  Brook.  216. 
Grant  Isle,  Me.  67. 
Granville,  N.  8.  86. 
Great  Bartibog  61. 
Great  Boule  233, 
Great  Bras  d'Or  161,  164. 
Great  (%)drov  217. 
Great  Ha  Ha  Lake  302. 
(Jreat  Harbor  Deep  221. 
(Jreat  .Meccatina  230. 
Great  .Miquelon  186. 
Great  Pabos  241. 
CJreat  Pond  248. 
Great  I'ubnico  Lake  124. 
Great  iSt.  Ijiwrence  214. 
Great  Shemogue  69. 
Great  Village  HI. 
Green  Bay  211. 
(Jreenfield  130. 
(Jreen  Harbor  209. 
(Jreen  Ids   124,  214,  252. 
(Jrcenly  Id.  229. 
Green  River  57. 
(Jreenspond,  N.  F.  203. 
Greenville  80. 
GriM^nwich  Hill  41.. 
Grenville  Harbor  178. 
Grimn's  Cove  248. 
(Jriguet,  N.  F.  221. 
(Jrimross,  N.  B.  42. 
(Jrindstone  Id.  183. 
Grondines,  P.  Q.  306. 
(Jrosse  Isle  254. 
Grosses  Coques  113. 
Gull  Rock  121. 
(Jut  of  Canso  142. 
Guysborough  133. 

Habitants  Bay  143. 
Ha  HaBay.P.  Q.  301. 
Halifax,  N.  S  93. 

Admiralty  House  97. 

Cathedral  98. 

Citatlel  96. 

Dalhousie  Coll.  98, 

Gov't  House  98. 

Harbor  93. 

Hortie.  (Jardens  98. 

Museum  96 

Parliament  Buildinjr  95. 

Provincial  Building  95. 

Queen's  Dockyard  97. 

Y.  M.  C.  A.  96. 
Ilalitax,  P.  E.  I   179. 
Hall's  Bay  211,218. 
Hammond's  Plains  100. 
Hampton,  N.  B.  71. 
Hampton,  N.  S.  89. 
Hantsport,  N.  S  91, 101. 
Harbor  Briton  214. 
Harbor  Butfet  212. 
Harbor  Grace,  N.  F.  207. 

Tr.^-.u :m.,     XT     o     i\r\ 

Hare  Bay,  N.  F.  221. 


INDEX. 


325 


95. 
•Jo. 

J7. 


lo. 
loi. 

lo7. 


Hiiro  Id.,  i'.  Q.2G2. 

llnri'"H  Kiirs  I'iS. 
Hai«'!<-llml  llillN218. 
IIiiiiiiuiiv,  I'.  K.  I.  1S2. 
llaivcy,  N.  M.  38. 
lliirvi'v  CoriHT  72. 
Ilaulover  IhMiiiuih  14G. 
llavflock,  N.  H.  K'.>. 
Hcaii  of  AnihtTst  7H. 
lUart  Ki(lK»«,  N.  K.  210. 
Hctirt'H  font)  lit  208. 
lltarfH  Dclijrht 'iOy. 
ll.'iirfs  lK'siif2()!t. 
Heart's  Kasf.N.  F  209. 
Hcliortvillc,  I'.  Q.  3U0. 
Hflin.n,  I,ab.  22t;. 
Hci^rhtsdf  Uua22G. 
Hell  Hill  1!)7 
Hcrmiram'  IJav  215. 
Hfnii.K('(m;,"N.  S.  93. 
Hij,'h  Heacoii  '227. 
Hi^'lilaiiil  I'ark  23. 
Hitrhlauil  Villa>;e8l. 
Himh  I'oiiit  31)1. 
llillHhorouKh,  N.  K.  72. 
IIill8l)orou>jli  Hav  174 
HillshoroufTh  Kivcr  180. 
Hillsbiiru  HG. 
Ho<-helapi,  l».  Q.  318. 
HodKi". Water  River  213. 
Holland  Hay,  ISO. 
Holy  rood,  N.  F.  109. 
Holyrood  l'oii(l2l3. 
Hooping  Hartior  221. 
Hope,  I'.  Q.  241. 
Hope  All,  N.  F.  209. 
Hopcdale,  Lab.  226. 
Hopewell  130. 
Hopewell  Cape  72. 
Horton  LaiidlnK  91. 
Houlton,Me.  37,51. 
Howe".'*  Lake  23. 
Hudson".-*  Strait  226. 
Huniber  Uiver  219. 
Hunter  River  177,  178. 

Indian  Bay  1G7,  203. 
Indian  Beach  30. 
Indian  Gardens  130. 
Indian  Id.,  I^ib  225. 
Indian  Id.s.  210. 
Indian  Lorette  278. 
Indian  Tickle  225. 
Indiantown,  N.  B.  47. 
Indian  Village  51. 
lngonish,C.  B.  159. 
Intervale  133 
lo-iclay  Hill  197. 
Irish  Cove,  C.  B.  147. 
Ircrdiound  Cove,  N.  B  49. 
Jronbound  Id.,  N   S.  119. 
Island,  Alright  184. 

Amherst  183. 

Auticosti  234. 


Mand,Ba{«raHeii,N.F.201. 
Barnaby,  V.  (I  250. 
Beaidiairs  Tni 
Bellechasse  254. 
Bic,  I',  i.1  'J50. 
Blai'kbill  227. 
Bonaventure'243. 
Bon  I'ortage  124. 
Boughton  175. 
it.iiilarderie  161. 
Brandy  I'ots  252. 
Brier  ll7. 
Brunet  214. 
Bryon  184. 
Canipobello  25. 
Cape  Breton  141. 
Cape  .''iable  123. 
Caribou  175,224. 
Carrousel  2;i.'5. 
Castle,  I.ab.  227. 
Caton's  41. 
Cawee  2im. 
Chapel  147. 
('lu  ticanip  170. 
Cheyne  29. 
Christmas  h'A. 
Cobbler"s  203. 
Coffin  184. 
Cole's  47. 
Cotters  203. 
Crane,  I*.  Q.  253. 
Cross,  N.  S.  118. 
Dead,  N.  F. 225. 
Deer  203. 
Devil,  N.  .S.  93. 
Egg,  Lab.  233. 
Entry  184. 

Esquimaux,  Lab.  231. 
Exploit.s,  N.  F.  205,210. 
Fair,  N.  F.  203. 
FishHake  227. 
Fly  225. 

Fogo,N.F.  204,210. 
Foster's,  N.  B.  41. 
Fox,  N    B  01. 
Funk,  N.  F.  203. 
George  179. 
(ieorge's,  N.  S.  98. 
Goat,  N.  S.  85. 
Goose,  P.  Q.  253. 
Governor's  175. 
Grand  Dune  01. 
Grand  Manan  28. 
Grassy,  N.  B.  41. 
Great  Caribou  224. 
Green  124,  201,  220,  252. 
Grimross,  N.  B  43. 
Grindstone  72,  183. 
Gros.se  184. 
Hare,  P.  Q.  252. 
Henry  109. 
Heron  67. 
Horse  221. 
liuntiugton  225. 


Island.  Indian  226. 
Irelao.l.  N    F.  215. 
Ironboiind  119 
•hujtu's  Cartier  220. 
KHiiinuru-ka252. 
r.Mrge23i. 

L,  uiox,  P.  E.  I.  179. 
LittI    Miqnelon  186. 
Little  Bn     211. 
'•k<"  S.  121. 

lui, 107, 117, 212. 
'uHqiiisb  42. 
N     V  101,93. 
^i.  264. 
-  i3. 
'01. 

.\  .n212. 

Mi.l..ie43 
Miquebm  186. 
Wiscou  04. 
Moose  26. 
Nantucket  29. 
N<'gro  122. 
Newfoundland  187. 
New  World  205. 
of  I'onds  225. 
Panmur>  ,  P.  K.  I.  175. 
Park,  P    E.  I.  179. 
J'artridge,  N.  B.  15 
Partridge,  N.  S.  102,  103. 
Penguin  203. 
Pictou.  N.  S.  175. 
Pilgrims  252. 
Pinchers  203. 
Pinnacle  105. 
Pocksuedie  03. 
J'ooPs  203. 
PortJige  til. 
Priest^■  318. 
Prince  Edward  172. 
Quarry  231. 
Quirpon  220. 
Kam  121. 

Uandom,  N.  F  209. 
Reaux,  P.  Q. 254. 
Red  212,  218,  252. 
Sable  134. 
Saddle  228. 
Sagona  214. 
St.  BarVie  221. 
St.  Paul's  1(K). 
St.  Pierre  185. 
Sandous  40. 
Seal,  N.  S.  124. 
Sea-Wolf  169. 
Sheldrake  61. 
Shippigan  03. 
Smith's  109. 
Spencer's  103, 104,  106. 
Spotted,  N.  F.  225. 
Square,  Lab.  225. 
Stone  Pillar  253. 
Sugar  60,  51. 
Venison  225. 


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326 


INDEX. 


Islanfl,  Vln,  N.  B  61 

White  Head  29. 

White  Horse  31. 

Wolf  184. 

Wood  IMUar  253. 
Island.^,  Rattle  224. 

Burnt  215. 

Camp  227. 

Ciboux  161. 

Dead  215. 

Five  105. 

Lifcile  St.  Modeste228. 

Magdalen  183. 

Mingan  231. 

Mutton  124. 

Penguin  203. 

Ragged  212. 

Kamea  215. 

Ram's,  N.  F.  212. 

Red  147. 

Seal  225. 

Seven,  Lab.  232. 

Tancook,  N.  S.  128. 

Tusket,  N.  S.  125. 
Isle  aux  Ohiens  185. 

auXjCoudres  293. 

Bell,  N.  F.  221. 

Belle  206,  220. 

Deadman's  184. 

Deer,  N.  B.  25. 

Groais  221. 

Haute  104. 

Jesus  318. 

Madame  145. 

of  Orleans  288. 

St   Louis  304. 

St.  Therese  31)8. 

Verte,  P  Q.  252. 
Isles,  Bird  184. 

Burgeo  215 

de  la  Demoiselle  230. 

Gooseberry  203. 

Passe  Pierre  305. 

Peterel  227. 

Twillingate  205. 

Wadham,  N.  F.  203. 

West,  N.  B.  25,  31. 

Jackson's  Arm  221. 
Jacksonville,  N.  S  90. 
Jaques  Cartier306. 
Jebogue  Point  125 
Jeddore,  N.  S.  132. 
Jem.seg,  N.  B.  42,  48. 
Jerseyman  Id   145. 
Jesus,  Isle  318. 
Jeune-Lorette  278. 
Joe  Batt's  Arm  210. 
Joggins  Shore  80. 
Jolicoeur,  N.  B.  73. 
Joliette,  P.  Q. 
Jonquiere  300. 
Judique,  C.  B.  168. 
Julianshaab.  Gr.  226. 


Kamounuska,  P.  Q.  252. 

Keels,  N.  F.  203. 
jKegashka  Bay  231. 
I  Kempt  Head  '102. 
Kempt,  N   S.  115. 
Kempt  Lake,  N.  S.  90. 
Kennebecasis  Bay  40,  22. 
Kenogami,  P.  Q.  300. 
Kensington  178. 
Kentville,  N.  S.  90.  • 
Keswick  Valley  50. 
Keyhole,  N.  B.  49. 
Kingsclear,  N.  B.  51. 
King's  Cove  203. 
Kingston,  N.  B.  42. 
Kingston,  N.  S.  89. 
Kouchibouguac  Bay  61. 

La  Bonne  St.  Ante  285. 
Labrador  223. 
Lac  k  la  Belle  Truite  302. 
Lachine,  P   Q.  320. 
La  Fleur  de  Lis  221. 
Lahave  River  128. 
Lake  Ainslie  167, 169. 

Bathurst  211. 

Bear  38. 

Beauport  279. 

Belfry  164. 

Ben  Lomond  23. 

Blind  126. 

Catalogue,  C.  B.  154. 

Cedar,  N.  S.  115. 

Chamberlain,  Me.  58. 

Chesuncook  58. 

Cleveland  57. 

Cranberry  38. 

Croaker's  211. 

Echo, N.  S.  131. 

Fairy,  N.  S.  130. 

French,  N.  B.  48. 

Oabarus,  C.  B   154. 

Gaspereaux  90. 

George  51,90,  115. 

George  IV.  211 

Grand  48,  36,  82. 

Gravel  295. 

Great  Ila  Ha  302. 

Jones  23. 

Kempt  90. 

Lewey's,  Me.  35. 

Lilv.N.  B.  22. 

Little  Ha  Ha  302. 

Long,  P.  Q.  58. 

Long, N.  S.  82. 

Magaguadavic  38. 

Malaga,  N    S.  129. 

Manor,  P.  Q.  319. 

Maqnapit,  N.  B.  48. 

Motapedia  69. 

Mira,  C.  B.  154. 

Mistassini  301. 

Moosehead  58. 
I    Mount  Theobald  71. 


Lake  Nepisiguit  55. 

Nictor,  N.  B.  55. 

Oromocto  38. 

Pcchtaweekagomic  58. 

Pemgockwahen  58. 

Pockwock  100. 

Pohenagamook  58. 

Ponhook, N.  S.  126. 

Porter's  131. 

Port  Med  way  130. 

Preble,  Me.  57. 

Prince  William  52. 

Queen's,  N.  B.  37. 

Quiddy  Viddy  195. 

Robin  Hood  37. 

Rocky,  N.  S  82. 

Rnssignol  130. 

St.  Charles  279. 

St.  Joachim  287. 

St.  John,  P.  Q.  301. 

St.  Peter,  P.  Q.  307. 

Sedgwick  ot. 

Segum  Sega  130. 

Sheogomoc  52. 

Shepody,  N.  B.  72. 

Sherbrooke  90. 

Sherwood,  N.  B.  37- 

Ship  Harbor  132. 

S.  Oromocto  38. 

Spruce,  N.  B.  24. 

Stream  49. 

Taylc's  23. 

Tcmiscouata  58,  295. 

Terra  Nova  203. 

Tracy's,  N   B.  71. 

Tusket,  N.  S.  115. 

Two-Mile  90. 

Utopia,  N.  B.  32. 

Vaughan,  N.  S.  115. 

Washademoak  47,  42. 

Welastookwaagamis  58. 

Wentworth  113. 

Windsor,  N.  F.  195. 

Winthrop,  Me.  58. 
Lakes.  Avlesford  90. 

Bras  d'Or  161. 

Chiputneticook  38. 

Dartmouth  101. 

Eagle,  Me.  58. 

Sc hoodie,  Me.  35. 

Tusket,  N.  S.  115. 
La  Manche  197,  212. 
Lance-au-Loup  228. 
Lance  Cove  206. 
Land's  End,  41. 
Langlev  Id   186. 
Lanoraie,  P.  Q  308. 
L'Anse  A  I'Eau  305. 
La  Poile,  N.  F.  215. 
L'Archeveque  147. 
L'Ardoise,  C.  B.  146. 
Large  Id.  231. 
LaScie221,2l1. 
L'AssomDtion.  P.  0.  308. 


INDEX. 


327 


|8. 


308. 


Laval  River  299. 
Lavaltrie,  P.  Q.  308. 
La  Vieille  246. 
Lawlor's  Lake  70. 
Lawrencetown  89,  131. 
Lazaretto,  Tracadie  62. 
Ledge,  The  36. 
Loitchfield,  N.  S.  86. 
Lennox  Id  179. 
Lennox  Pa.ssage  145. 
Les  IJboulenienta  294. 
Les  Kcureuils  306. 
Les  Egcoumains  233. 
L'Etang  du  Nord  184. 
L'Etang  du  Savoyard  185. 
L"  Etang  Harbor  31. 
Letite  Pa.ssage  32. 
Levis,  P.  Q  282. 
Lewey's  Id.  35. 
Lewis  Cove  47. 
Lily  Luke  22. 
Lingan  152,  150. 
Lion's  Bacli  23. 
Liscomb  Harbor  132. 
L'Islet,  P  Q.  253. 
L'Islet  au  Massacre  250. 
Little  Arichat  145. 
Little  Bay  Id.  205,  211. 
Little  Bras  d'Or  161. 
Little  Falls  57. 
Little  Glare  Bay  153 
Little  Ha  Ha  Lake  3a2. 
Little  Loran  154. 
Little  Miquelon  186. 
Little  Narrows  167. 
Little  P.abos  241 
Little  Placentia  212. 
Little  River  22. 
Little  Uocher  72. 
Little  Saguenav  804. 
Little  St.  Lawrence  214. 
Little  Seldom-conie-by  210. 
Little  Shemogue  59. 
Little  Tancook  128. 
Liverpool,  N.  S.  120,130. 
Lobster  Ilnrbor  221. 
Loch  Alva  .37 
Loch  an  Fad  147. 
Loch  Lomond,  C.  B.  147. 
Loch  Lomond,  N.  B.  22. 
Lochside,  0.  B.  147. 
Loch  Uist  147. 
Locke'sid  ,  N.  S  121. 
Logie  Bay  195.  '200. 
Londonderry  105. 
Long  Id.  40^42  101,117. 
Long  Pilgrim  252. 
Long  Point  2.S1. 
Long  Range  217. 
Long  Reacli  41. 
Long's  Eddy  30. 
Longue  Point  319. 
Lorette,  Indian  278. 
Lotbiuiere,  P.  Q  306. 


Louisbourg.  C.  B.  154, 149. 

I^up  Bay  228. 
Low  Point  168. 
j  Lower  Canterbury  52. 
I  Lower  Caraquette  66. 
! Lower  French  Vill  51. 
j  Lower  Horton  107. 
[Lower  Middleton  89. 
ILower  Prince  William  51. 
Lo^ver  Queonsbury  51. 
Lower  Woodstock  52. 
Lubec,  Me  26. 
Ludlow,  N.  B.  47. 
Lunenburg  118, 128. 

Mabou.C.B.  169. 
Mabou  Valley  168. 
McAdam  .June.  38. 
Maccan,N.  S  80,79. 
Mace's  Bay  31. 
McNab's  Id.  101,  93. 
Madawaska  57. 
Magagiiadavic  River  32. 
Magdalen  Ids.  183 
Magdelaine,  Cai)o  248 
Maguacha  Point  67,  239. 
Magundy,  N.  B.51. 
Mahogany  Road  24. 
Mahone  Bay  127,  118. 
Main-i-Dieu  1,50. 
Maitland  82,  105,  129. 
Malaga  Lake  1.30. 
Malagawdatchkt  165. 
Malbaie,  P   Q.  294. 
Mai  Bay  244. 
Malcolm  Point  61. 
Malignant  Cove  139. 
Malpe(iue  Harbor  178. 
Manchester,  N.  S.  133. 
Manicouagan  233,  250. 
Manitousin  Falls  232. 
Maquapit  Lake  48. 
Marchmont  280. 
Margaree  River  167. 
Margaree  Forks  170. 
Margaretsville  89. 
Maria,  P.  Q.  240. 
Marie  .Toseph  132. 
Marion  Bridge  154. 
Marshalltown  112. 
Mars  Head  117. 
Mars  Hill  54. 
Marsh  Road  22. 
Marshy  Hope  138. 
Mascarene  32. 
Masstown  81. 
Matane,  P.  Q.  249 
Mattawamkeag  39,  58. 
Maugerville.  N.  B.  43. 
Mealy  Mts  225. 
Meccatina,  Lab.  230. 
MedLsco,  N.  B  66. 
Meductic  Rap{d.>  52. 
Mejarmette  Portage  40. 


Melford  Creek  143. 
Melrose,  N   S  82 
Melvern  Square  89. 
Melville  Id.  101. 
Melville  Lake  226. 
Memramcook  73. 
Merasheen  Id  212. 
Merigoniish  138. 
Metapedia  69. 
Meteghan,  N.  S.  113. 
M6tis,  P.  Q.  249. 
Middle  Musquodoboit  82. 
Middle  River  163, 167. 
Middle  Simonds,  53 
Middle  Stewiacke  81. 
Middleton,  N.  S.  89. 
Milford,  N  S.  129. 
Mil  ford  Haven  133. 
Milkish  Channel  41. 
Mill  Cove,  N.  B.  49. 
Mi  lie  Vaches  299. 
Milltown,  N.  B  35. 
Mill  Village  128. 
Minas  Basin  101, 108. 
Mingan  Ids.,  Lab.  231. 
Ming's  Bight  221. 
Minister's  Face  22. 
Minudie,  N.  S.  79. 
Miquelon  185,  214. 
Mira  Bay  150. 
Mira  Lake,  C.  B.  154. 
Miramichi,  N.  B.  61. 
Miscouche  179. 
-Miscou  Id.  64. 
Mispc'ck,  N.  B.  23. 
Mi^siguaph  Marsh  79,  74. 
Mission  Point  68 
Mistanoque  Id  230. 
Mistassini,  Lake  301. 
Moisic  River  232. 
Molas.ses  Harbor  134. 
Momozeket  River  55. 
Moia-ton,  N.  B   72. 
Money  ("ove  30. 
Montague  Bridge  181 
Montague  .Mines  101, 131. 
Mont  .Joli  281. 
Mont  Louis  249. 
Montmorenci  Falls  277. 
Montreal,  P.  Q.  309. 

Bonsecours  Market  312. 

Champ  de  Mars,  312. 

Christ  Ch.  Cathed.  314. 

Court  House  312. 

Dominion  Sq.  315. 

Geolog.  Museum  312. 

Gesu  Church  313. 

Gray  Nunnery  315. 

Great  Seminary  315. 

H  itel  Dieu  316. 

Institut  Canadien  312. 

McGill  Univ  814. 

Montreal  Coll.  315. 

Mt.  Royal  316. 


328 


INDEX. 


Montreal,   Naaireth    Asyl. 
316. 

New  Cathedral  315. 

Notre  Dame  311. 

Place  d'Armes  311. 

Post-Offlce  311. 

Seminary  312. 

St   Helen's  Isle  313. 

Victoria  Bridge  31G. 

Victoria  Square  311. 
Moose  Harbor  120. 
Moosepath  Park  22. 
Morden,  N   S.  89. 
Morreli.P.  E.  1.182. 
Morris  Id.  116. 
Morristown  90,  139. 
Mosquito  Cove  208. 
Moss  Glen  22 
Moulin  k  Baude  299. 
Mount  Aspotogon  127. 

Blair  32. 

Calvaire  186. 

Camille  250. 

Chapeau  186. 

Diilhousie  67. 

Dehson  91. 

Eboulements  294,  263. 

Granville  146. 

Hawley  89. 

Hermon  Cemet.  280. 

Joli  242. 

Nat  225. 

Pisgah  71. 

Royal  316,  318. 

St.  Anne  242. 

Stewart,  P.  E.  1. 181. 

Teneriffe,  N.  B.  55. 

Uniacke,  N.  S.  93. 
Mountain,  Ardoise,  93. 

Bald,  38,  55. 

Beloeil  319. 

Boar's  Back  132. 

Boucherville  319. 

Ohanicook  33. 

North  84. 

Salt  168. 

South  84. 

Sugar-Loaf  159. 

Tracadiegash  67,  239. 
Mountains,  Antigonish  139. 

Baddeck  163. 

Blue  84,  90, 115, 130. 

Cobequid  80. 

Ingouish  161. 

Mealy  225. 

Notre  Dame  249. 

St.  Anne  287. 

St.  Margaret  302. 

Scaunienac  68. 

Sporting  146. 
Mull  River  168, 
Murray  Bay  294 
Murray  Harbor  181. 
Musbaboon  Harbor  132. 


Musquash,  N.  B.  31. 
Musquodoboit  131. 
Mutton  Ids.  124. 

Nain,  Lab.  226. 
Napan  ^  alley  61. 
Narrows,  The  47,  54. 
Narrows,  Grand  164. 
Nashwaak  47. 
Naahwaaksis  45. 
Natashquan  Point  231. 
Natural  Steps,  The  277. 
Necum  Tench  132 
Negroid.,  N.  S.  122. 
Negrotown  Point  15. 
Nelson,  N.  B.  63. 
Nepisiguit  Lake  55. 
Nepisiguit  River  65. 
Nerepis  Hills,  N.  B.  41. 
Neropis  River  38. 
Netsbuctoke  225. 
Neutral  Id.,  N.  B   34. 
New  Albany,  N.S.  89. 
New  Bandon  66. 
New  Bay  211. 
New  Bonaventure  210. 
New  Brunswick  13. 
Newburgh,  N.  B.  60. 
New  Canaan  48. 
New  Carlisle  240. 
Newcastle  49,  62. 
New  Dublin  119. 
New  Edinburgh  112. 
Newfoundland  187. 
New  Glasgow,  N.  S.  136. 
New  Glasgow,  P.  E.  I.  178. 
New  Liverpool  282. 
New  London  178. 
Newman  Sound  203. 
New  Perlican  209. 
Newport,  N.  S.  92, 101. 
Newport,  P.  Q.  241. 
New  Richmond  240. 
New  Ross,  N.  S.  90. 
New  Tusket  113. 
Niapisca  Id.  231. 
Nicolet,  P.  Q  308. 
Nictau  Falls  89. 
Nictor  Lake  55. 
Niger  Sound  227. 
Nimrod,  N.  F.  211. 
Nipper's  Harbor  205,  211. 
Noel,  N.S.  105. 
North  Bay  214. 
Northern  Head  30. 
Northfield  129. 
North  Harbor  212. 
North  Joggins  73. 
North  Lake  182. 
North  Mt.  84. 
North  Point  180. 
North  River  Falls  105. 
North  Rustico  178. 
North  Sydney  151. 


Northumberland  Strait  60, 

174,  289. 
Northwest  Arm  100. 
North  Wiltshire  177. 
Norton,  N.  B.  71,42. 
Norwest,  Lab.  226 
Notre  Dame  Bay  210,  205. 
Notre  Dame  du  Lac  68. 
Nova  Scotia  75. 
Nubble  Id.  31. 

Oak  Bay,  N.  B.  34. 
Oak  Point  41,  61. 
Ochre  Pit  Cove  208. 
Offer  Wadham  204. 
Okkak,  Lab.  226. 
Old  Barns  81. 
Old  Bonaventure  210. 
Old  Ferolle  219. 
Old  Fort  Point  158. 
Oldham  Mines  82. 
Old  Maid  29. 
Old  Perlican  209,  201. 
Oldtown,  Me.  39. 
Olomanosheebo  231. 
Onslow  80. 
Oromocto,  N.  B.  43. 
Oromocto  Lake  38. 
Orono,  Me.  39. 
Otnabog,  N.  B.  42. 
Ottawa,  Ont.  320. 
Outarde  River  250. 
Oxford,  N.  S.  80. 
Ovens,  the  119. 

PabiP-       Falls  66. 
Pabo  >.  241. 

Paiii.         inc.  72,  59. 
Piip.5  of  ilatane  249. 
Paradise,  N.  F.  226. 
Paradi.se,  N.  S.  89. 
Parrsboro',  N.  S.  102. 
Partridge  Id.,  N.  B.  15. 
Partridge  Id.,  N.  S.  102. 
Paspebiac,  P.  Q  240. 
Patrick's  Hole  ;i90. 
Patten,  Me.  58. 
Penguin  Ida.  203. 
Penobscot  River  39. 
Penobsquis,  N.  B.  71. 
Penteco.^t  River  233. 
Pepiswick  Lake  131. 
Perce,  P.  Q.  242. 
Perroquets,  The  232. 
Perry,  Me.  28. 
Perth,  N.  B.  54. 
Petitcodiac  72,  48. 
Petit  de  Grat  145. 
Petite  Bergeronne  233. 
Petite  Passage  117. 
Petit  M  tis  249 
Petty  Harbor  197. 
Piccadilly  Mt.  71. 
Pickwaakeet  42. 


INDEX. 


329 


L02. 


15. 

102. 


1233. 


Pictou  137, 166. 
Pictou  Id.  175. 
Pilgrims,  The  252. 
Piiu-lier\s  Id.  203. 
Pinnacle  Id.,  N.  S.  105. 
Pirate's  Cove  143. 
Pisarinco  Cove  31. 
Phueiitia  Bay  212. 
Plains  of  Abraham  280. 
Plaster  Cove  143,  168. 
Pleasant  Bay  183. 
Pleasant  Point  27. 
Pleureuse  Point  249. 
Plumweseep  71. 
Pockmouche,  N.  B.  62. 
Poc-kshaw,  N.  B.  66. 
Point  a  Beaulieu  295 
Point  Aconi,  C.  B.  161. 

Amour,  Lab.  228. 

k  Pique  294. 

au  Bourdo  69. 

de  Monts  233,  249. 

du(;hene6y,60. 

la  Boule  305. 

Lepreau  31. 

Levi,  P  Q.  282. 

M.aquereau  241. 

Miscou,  N   B.  64. 

Orignaux  252. 

Pleasant  40,  68|  100. 

Prim  175, 181. 

Rich,  N.  F.  219. 

St.  Charles  316. 

St.  Peter  244. 

Wolfe,  N.  B   71. 
Pointe  k  la  Garde  68. 

■k  la  Croix  68. 

aux  Trembles  306,  309. 

Mille  Vaches  233. 

Roches  301. 

Rouge  299. 
Pokiok  Falls  52. 
PoUett  River  72. 
Pomquet  Forks  139. 
Pond,  Deer,  N.  F.  219. 

Grand,  N.  F  218. 

Red  Indian  211. 

Quemo-Gospen  213 
Ponhook  Lake  130, 126. 
Port  Acadie,  N.  S.  113 
Portage  Road,  N.  B.  61. 
Port  au  Basque,  N.  F.  216. 

au  Choix  219. 

au  Persil,  P,  Q.  295. 

au  Pique  81. 

au  Port,  N.  F.  218. 

aux  Quilles,  295. 

Daniel  241. 

Elgin,  N.  B.73. 
Porter's  Lake,  N.  S  131. 
Port  Greville,  N,  S.  103. 

Hastings,  C.  B.  143. 

Hawkesburv  143. 

Uerbert,  N.'S.  121. 


Port  Hill,  P.  E.  T.  179. 

Hood,  C.  B.  169. 

Joli,  N.  S.  121. 

Latour,  N.  S.  122. 

Me(lway,N.  S.  120. 

Mouton  120 

Mulgr.ive  143, 140. 
Port  Nouf,  Lab.  233. 
Portneuf,  P.  Q.  306. 
Porto  Nuevo  Id.  149. 
Portugal  Cove  195,  206. 
Port  St.  Augustine  230. 
Port  "Williams  89,  91. 
Powder-Horn  Hills  212. 
iPownal,  P.  E  I.  177. 
Presque  Isle,  Me.  54. 
j Preston,  N.  S.  131. 
Preston's  Beach  61. 
Prim  Point  83. 
Prince  Edward  Id  172 
Princetown,  P.  E.  I.  178. 
Prince  William  52. 
Prince  William  St.  89. 
Pubnico,  N.  S.  125. 
Pugwa8h81,80. 

Quaco,  N.  B.  71. 
Quebec,  P.  Q.  255. 

Anglican  Cathedral  200. 

Basilica  261. 

Cathedral  261. 

Citadel  260. 

Custom  House  271. 

Durham  Terrace  259. 

Esplanade  268 

Gen.  Hospital  272. 

Gov.\s  Garden  269, 

Grand  Battery  269, 

Hotel  Dieu  266 

Jesuits'  College  261. 

Laval  University  263. 

Lower  Town  271- 

Marine  Hosp  272. 

Market  Sq.  260. 

Martello  Towers  270. 

Montcalm  Ward  270. 

Morrin  College  265 

IV   D.  des  Victoires  271. 

Parliament  Building  263. 

Post -Office  264. 

St.  John  Ward  269. 

St.  Roch  272. 

Seminary  262. 

Ursuline  Conv.  264. 
Quemo  Gospen  213. 
Quiddy  Viddy  195. 
Quirpon,N.  F.  220. 
Quispamsis,  N   B.  70. 
Quoddy  Head  26. 
Rjigged  Harbor  201. 
Ragged  Ids.  212. 
Ramealds.  N.  F.  215 
Rani  Id  121. 
Ram's  Ids.  N.  F.  212. 


Random  Pound  209. 
Rankin's  Mills,  N.  B  87. 
Rapide  de  Femme  56. 
Rapids,  Ijichine  319. 

Meductic  52. 

St.  Anne  320. 

St.  Mary's  819. 

Terrcs  Rompues  300. 
Red  Bay  228. 
Red  Cliffs,  Lab.  220,  228, 
Red  Head,  N.  F.  200. 
Red  Hills,  N.  F.  199. 
Red-Indian  Pond  210,  211. 
Red  Ids  147 
Red  Point  182 
Red  Rapids,  N.  B.  54. 
Remsheg,  N.  S  81. 
Renewse,  N  F.  198. 
Renlrew,N.  S.  82. 
Repentigny,  P.  Q.  308 
Uestigouche  River  69,  56. 
Richihucto,  N.  B.  60. 
Richmond  Bay  178. 
Rigolette,  Lab.  226. 
Kimouski,  P.  Q  250 
River,  Avon,  N   S-  91. 

Charlo,  N.  B.  66. 

Denys,  C.  B.  165. 

Gold,  N.  S.  128 

Gouffre,  P.  Q.  292. 

Hillsborough  180. 

number,  N    F.  219. 

John,N  S.81. 

LaHave,  N.  S.  128. 

Louison,  N.  B.  66. 

Magaguadavic  32. 

Manitou,  Lab,  232, 

Miramichi  61, 

Mistassini  301. 

Moisic.  Lab.  232. 

Nepisiguit  65,  65. 

of  Castors  219. 

Exploits  210. 

Ottawa  320. 

Petitcodiac  72. 

Philip,  N.  S.  80. 

Restigouche  69,  56. 

Saguenay  297,  233. 
»St.  Anne,  P.  Q.  286. 

St.  Croix,  N.  B  33. 

St.  John,  Lab  232. 

St.  Lawrence  246,  306- 

St.  Marguerite  305. 
■   St.  Mary's,  N.  S.  133. 

St  Maurice  307- 
Riversdale,  N.  S  136. 
River,  Tobique  54. 
Riviere  i  I'Ours  301. 

a  Mars  302. 

du  Loup  295,  252, 

Maheu  290. 

Oueilc,  P.  Q.  252. 
Robbiiiston.  Me.  33. 
Roberval,  P.  Q.  301. 


330 


INDEX. 


f'  ■ 


RoblnHon'fl  Point  48. 
Roclicttc,  N.  H.  (iti. 
R(K-k,  l'crci''Jt2. 
RdckUiKl,  N.  n.  73. 
Ilockport  73. 
R.H'kv  Hav,  .N    K.  210. 
R.ick'v  Lakt',  .N.  .^   K2. 
Rollo  Hav,  I*.  K.  1.182. 
RdsiuU's,  'nu>  2fA. 
JloMo  hav  11!». 
R()s<>  niaiiclic  2ir) 
U()88i).ciii)l  liaki'  i;{(). 
Ross  way,  N-  S.  Uli. 
Roth(>say  22,  70. 
Ro\if;li  WiihTs  Tirt. 
Rotiiul  Iliirtior  lill 
Rout.*'  iU'8  I'rt'tri's  290. 
RovaUv  .luiic.  177. 
Rustk-o,  P.  K  1.  178. 

Sabhiitt«>(>  Lake  127. 

Sabiuun  Lake  124. 

Sable  id.  134. 

Sa.'kvilU«,  N.  H.  73. 

Sacnyl  ids.  220. 

Saiidrc  hi.  227. 

Sagoiia  111.  214. 

Samu'Tiay  River  297. 

St.  Ajiue's,  P.  (J.  2!ir). 

St.  .\lbans,  P.  Q.  281. 

St.  Aloxi-*  (5!t,  302. 

St.  Alplionsf,  P.  Q.  302. 

St.  Andrews,  N.  H  33,28. 

St.  Andrews,  P.  K  I    1S1._ 

St.  Andrew's  Channel  105. 

St.  Angel  de  Laval  307. 

St.  Anne  (Itontde  IT)  320 

St.  Anne  de  Heanurt^  2S'). 

St.  Anne  de  la  Perade  307. 

St.  Anne  de  la  Pocatiere  253. 

St.  Anne  des  Monts  240. 

St.  Anne  du  Nord  285, 

St   Anne  du  Sagnenay  300. 

St.  Anne  .Mts.  287. 

St.  Anne's  Hay  158. 

St.  Antiionv  221. 

St.  AntoinedeTiliv  306. 

St.  Antoine  Perou  292. 

St.  Ars  ne  290  ♦ 

St.  Angustin  306. 

St   IJarbe  219. 

St.  Basil  57. 

St   Bruno  319. 

St.  Oecile  du  Hie  251 

St.  Charles  Harbor  227. 

St.  Colotnb  280. 

St.  Croix,  P.  Q.  .306. 

St.  Croix  Cove  89. 

St.  Croix  River  33. 

St.  Cuthbert  .308. 

St.  David's  178. 

St.  Denis,  P.  Q  252. 

St.  Donat    P.  Q  2,50. 

St  ireanors,'  P.  £1.  179. 


St.  Elizabeth,  P.  Q.  308. 

St.  K-prit,  C.  H    148. 

St.  lOtieiuie  Hav  3ll5. 

St.  Kabien,  P.  Q   251. 

St    Kaniille,  l».  Q.  289. 

St.  Kelicit ',  P.  a   249. 

St.  Felix  de  Valois  308. 

St   Fer  ol,  P.  (i.  287. 

St.  Fidole,  P.  (i  295. 

St.  Fiavie  70,  250. 

St    Foy,  P.  Q.  281. 

St.  Franeis  58. 

St.  Franeis  Harbor  225. 

St.  Frani^ois  290. 

St.  Franrois  du  bar  308. 

St.  Fran(^'ois  Xavier  292. 

St.  FulKenee30l 

St   (}enevievo21'.> 

St.  (Jeor^e,  N    H.  32. 

St.  Ueorge's  Bay  217. 

St.  (Jeorge's  (Uiaiinel  165. 

St.  (ierniain  de  Rim.  250. 

St.  Ir.m^e294. 

St.  I^naee,  Cn\)  253. 

St.  .la.ines  214. 

St  ,Jean  Baptiste  318. 

St.  .lean  Desehaiilons  .307. 

St.  .lean  (rOrleans  291). 

St.  .lean-Port-.ioli  253. 

St.  .leronie,  P.  Q.  301. 

St.  .loaeliini  287. 

St.  .lohn,  N    B.  15. 

Cathedral  18. 

Custoni-IIouse  17- 

Gen.  Pub.  llosp.  18. 

ll.irbor  15. 

King  S(iuare  16. 

Post-Ollie(!  17. 

St.  Paul's  19. 

Trinity  17. 

Valle.v,  The  19. 

Wiggins  Asyl.  17. 

Y.  .M.  C.  A."  16. 
St.  .John,  I.rfike301. 
St.  .lohn's,  N.  F.  ISO, 

Anglican  Catiiedral  191. 

('oloid  (1  Hnilding  192. 

Gov't  House  192. 

Harbor  189 

Narrows  191. 

Roman-Catholic      Cathe- 
dral 192. 

Signal  Hill  193. 
St.  John's  Bay  304. 
St.  .Jones  Harbor  209. 
St.  Joseph,  N.  B  73. 
St.  Joseph  P.  Q.  282 
St.  Uurent  290. 
St.  Lawrence  Bay  160, 
St.  Lawrence  River  246,  305 
St.  liconard,  N.  B  56. 
St.  Leon  Springs  308. 

St!  Louis  Isle  304.  " 


St.  Luce,  P.  Q.  250. 
St.  Lunaire22l. 
St.  iMargarit  River  23.3. 
St.  .Margaret's  Bay  219, 
St.  Margaret's  Bay  120,118 
St.  .Margiu-rite  Ki\er3il5. 
St.  .Mar(in,  P.  Q.  318. 
St   .Martin's,  N.  H   71. 
St.  Mary's,  N.  H.  45 
St.  Mary's,  .N.  F  213. 
St.  .Mary's  Bay,  N    F.  213 
St.  Mary's  Hav,  N.  S.  112 
St.  Mary's  Bay,  P   K.  1.  181. 
St.  .Maurice  liiver  307. 
St.  .Matthieu  251. 
St   .Michael's  Bay  226. 
St.  .Michel  254 
St    Modeste296. 
St   Norbert.308. 
St.  Octave,  P.  Q.  240. 
St.  Onesinus  1».  Q,  253. 
St.  Paeome,  P.  Q  253. 
St.  Paschal  252. 
St.  Patrick's  Channel  167. 
St.  Paul's  Bay  1:92. 
St.  Peter's,  c;  B.  146. 
St.  Peter's,  N.  B.  65. 
St.  Peter's,  P.  K   1.  182. 
St    I'efer's  Bay  227. 
St.  Peter'*  lulet  KM). 
St   Peter's  Id,  174. 
St.  Peter,  Lake  307. 
St.  Pierre  185,214. 
St.  Pierre  d'Orleans  289. 
St.  Pierre  les  Becijuets  307. 
St,  Placide,  P.  Q.  292 
St.  Roch-tles-.\ulnaies  253. 
St.  Komu.ild,  P.  Q.  282. 
St,  Ro,se  de  Lima  318. 
St.  Shot's,  N.  F.  213. 
St.  Siuu'on.  295. 
St.  Simon  251. 
St.  Stephen,  N.  B.  ,35. 
St.  Sulpice,  P.  Q.  308. 
St.  Th  ■re.se  318 
St.  Thomas,  P,  Q  253. 
St.  Titedes(^aps287. 
>t.  Urbain  292. 
St.  Valier,  P.  Q  2.54. 
St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  318. 
.Salisbury,  N.  B.  72. 
Salmon  Cove  201 
Salmonier,  N.  F  213. 
Salmon  River  49,  71, 114. 
Salt  Mt.,C.  B   167. 
Salutation  Point  174. 
Sambro  Id.  117 
Sandwich  Bay  226 
Sandwich  Head  227. 
Sandybeju'h  244. 
jSandy  Cove  116. 112. 
Sandy  Point 21  < 
iSi.nit  ,1  la  Puce  284 
Sault  au  Cochou  291. 


INDEX. 


331 


307. 


)3. 


318. 


SftuU  nn  Hocollft  318. 
Siiiilt  <U>  Mdiiton  T.iS. 
Wcatari.  (V  H.  150. 
Hchoddif  LiikoH  155 
Srotclitowii,  N    1».  48. 
hicotcli  VilliiK»'!»3. 
i^rulpiii  I'liiiit  214. 
.S'lil  Cnvo,  N.  It   29. 
y»!al  ("ov.',  N    V  221. 
S'lil  1(1   N.  S.  124. 
H«'!il  Mh  225. 
Sea-Tiont  Point  176. 
S»'a-\V<)lf  Id.  ltl!>. 
S«'»!l«y'H  x\lill.>*  71. 
S»'Kmii-St';?a  !iiiko.<i  130. 
ISi'ldi>iii-('oim!-l>y  210. 
S«'V('ii  I(1h  ,  Lub.  232. 
SliaK  Id.  230 
ShawaiicK.-iii  Fall.s  307. 
HlK'catica  Hay  2;{0. 
Slicdiar  W,  fio,  174. 
Hhcf't  Harbor  132. 
Sliclhuriic,  N.  S.  121. 
Sbcpodv  Hav  73. 
Sht-poflV  iMt.  72. 
Slu'rbrooke  133,  132. 
.Sht-rbrooko  LaKo  SH). 
Shiiiiiiiicas,  N.  H   78. 
Ship  Harbor  132 
Sluppi^.m  Id.  «)3. 
Sliof('ovo21!,221. 
Sliubcnacadit'  82. 
Sillcrv,  V.  Q.  280. 
Silver  Falls,  N.  B.  22. 
Sir      (!liarle.s      Hamilton'! 

Sound,    N   F.  2U3. 
Sissiboo  Falls  112. 
Skve  aion  ItlS. 
Sinitli's  Sound  209. 
Sniokv,(;ap«ir)9. 
Sorel,  l».  Q.  308 
Souris,  I>.  E   I   182. 
South  Bny,  N.  B.  40. 
South  Mt.  84. 
South  Oromocto  Lako  38. 
Southport,  I'.  K  I.  177. 
South  Quebec  282. 
S.  W  Head  29 
S.  \V,  Miraniichi  02. 
Spaniard's  Bay  207. 
Spear  Harbor  225. 
Speetaclo  Id.  120. 
Speneor's  Id  103, 104, 106. 
Si)enccr  Wood  280. 
^^piller  Roeks  202. 
Split,  Cape  104. 
Split  Hwk,31. 
Spotted  Id.  225. 
Spout,  The  197. 
Spra^K'.s  Point  42. 
Sprague".s  ('ove  29. 
SprinKfleld,  N   B.  42. 
Spriiifjiield,  N   S   89. 
Spriughill,N.  B.  61. 


SprinKinU.N.  8.  80. 
Spruce  id   31 
Spruce  Lake  24. 
Sprv  l!ii\  132. 
Stanley,  N    IJ   50. 
Statue' Point  3m;{. 
Steep  Cieck  1 13. 
Stellarton,  N.  S.  130. 
Stewi.icke  H2. 
Stone  I'illiir253. 
St«irniont,  N.  S    1.^3. 
Strait  of  Barra  1(14. 
Strait  oC  Hcjic  I.sle  220,  227 
Strait  of  CauH.)  142. 
Strait  of    Northumberland 

(10,  174.  239 
Strait  Sliore,  N.  F   19(5. 
Sujiar  Id   50.  51 
Sugar  Loaf,  N.  B,  fi8. 
Sugar- l.oaf,  N.  F.  200,217 
Siunnienside,  I'    K    I.  178. 
Suuacadie,  V.  B    ltl4. 
Su.xM'x  Vale,  N.  B   71. 
Swallow-Tail  Head  29. 
Sydney,  ('.  B.  150. 
Sydney  Mines  152. 

Tableau,  T^>  ,303. 
Table  Head  227. 
Table  Boulante  243. 
Tabu.siniae  (il,  02. 
Tadousac,  P.  Q   299. 
Tangier,  N.  S  1,32 
Tannery  West  319. 
Tantramar  Marsh  79,  74 
Tatanuigouehe,  N.  S.  HI. 
Tea  Hill,  P.  K    I.  177. 
Tedish,  N.  B.  .59 
Teuiiseouata  Lake  .58,295. 
Temple  Bay,  Lab  227. 
Tennant's  (Jove  42. 
Thoroughfare,  The  48. 
Three  Rivers  307. 
Three  Tid(!S,  P.  K.  I.  174. 
Tiiree  Towers,  N    F.  211. 
Thrumeap  Shoal  93. 
Tickle  Cove  203 
Tidinsh,  N.  S.  78. 
Tignish,  P.  K.  1    180. 
Tilt  Cove  205,  211 
Tiiton  Harbor  210. 
I'o.id  Cove  197. 
Tobi(jue,  N.  B.  54. 
Tolt  Peak  217. 
Tomkedgwick  River  09. 
Topsail,  N.  F.  200 
Torbay,  N.  F.  195,  200. 
Tor  Bay,  N.  S.  IM. 
Tonnentine,  CajMi  17 i. 
Torrent  Point  227. 
Tracadie,  N   B.  02. 
Tnioadjc,  N.  S  1,39. 
Traeadie,  P.  E.  1.  181. 
Truoadiegash  67,  289. 


Trary'H  Ijikv  71. 
Tracy's  Mills,  38. 
Traverse,  Cap*  174. 
Tremont,  N.  S  M>. 
TrepiLxsev,  N.  F  21.3. 
TriMitv,N.  F.  201. 
Trinity  Bay  20H.  201. 
Trinity,  CMj.e  303. 
Trinity  Cove  U'*l 
Tr(.is  Pistoles  251. 
Trois  Uivieies  .3<t7. 
Trou  St    Patrii  e  2W 
Troutv,  N.  F.  210. 
Truro,  N   S.  HI. 
Tr\(m,  I'.  K   I.  174. 
Tiisket  Ids.  12,5.  116. 
Tusket  Lakes  llf*. 
Tweednogie,  C.  B.  148. 
Twe»>dsidc,  N.  B.  38. 
Twillingate,  N.  F.  205. 

Ungava  Bay  220. 
Iljiper  Cara(iuette  00. 
Upper  (JHgetown  43 
l!pp(T  Mus(juod«)l)(iit  H2. 
Upper  (iueeiisbury  .52. 
Up.salcinitch  River  09. 
Utopia,  Lake  .'32. 

Van  Buren,  Me.  50. 

Vanceboro,  Me.  38. 
Varennes,  P.  Q.  308. 
Veazie,  M(.'.  .39. 
Venison  Id.  225. 
V<Tnon  River  181. 
Victoria  53. 
Victoria  Line  108. 
Victoria  Mines  1,52. 
Virginia  Water  195. 

Wallace  Valley  80. 
Walrus  1.1.2.31. 
Walton  100,  93. 
Wapitagun  liar.  230. 
Wapskehegan  River  54. 
Ward's  Harbor  211. 
Washadeinoak  Lake  47. 
Wash-shecootai  231 
Watagiieistie  Sound  230 
Watchabaktchkt  HA. 
Watt  .lunc.  37. 
Waverley  Mines  82. 
Waweig,  N.  B.  ,30. 
WelcJipool,N    B.  25. 
Wellington  179 
Welsford,  N.  B.  .38. 
Wentworth,  N   S.  80. 
West  Bay,  C.  B.  1<)6. 
Westchester,  N.  S.  80. 
Westfleld,  N.  B.  41. 
West  Isles  31. 
West  Point  179. 
West  Port,  N.  S.  117. 
West  River  226. 


332 


INDEX. 


Wevn.mith,  N  9.  112. 
WImlo  Vovo  29. 
^\■\uU'  Bay  221. 
Wliifo  IlaviMi  i;54. 
Whit4i  Ilors*'  ;J1. 
AVhlto's  Covo  41) 
AV  livcocoinuKli,  C.  B.  1G7 
AVirkluun,  42,  47. 
Wirklow,  N.  H.  53. 
Wiggius  Cove  41). 


WllHain  ll.«nrv  a(W. 
Wiliiuit  Spriiigf*  Si». 
Wil.sdii'f*  lU'arli  2o. 
Wiltiiii  Hrovo21l>. 
Windx.r,  N   S.  !M  ,  1(»1. 
Wiiulsur  .Iiiiu-   S'-,  '.»;]. 
Wind.sur  l,iikf  )!•'». 
Wiiu'  Harlior  l;{;{ 
Wi.soiuaii'H  I'ovc  221. 


WiHivM  Buy,  N.  V    107. 

wnir  iuv(>ii:}n. 

Wollvlllo  107,  Ul 

MoivivH.Tiio  2r.,:n. 

\V«..,I  I'illar'Ji'.M 
\Voo,|,shH'k  nil,  ;{7. 

Yannnuni,  N.  .M    114,  125. 
York  llivor  174. 


Index  to  Historical  and  Biographical  Allusions. 


Aradian  Kxilos  108, 113, 131 
Aunapolis  itoval,  N   8.  80. 
Autico.sti,  1'.  Q.  aM. 
Aukpaijuc,  N.  H  40. 
Avaloii,  N.  h\  \m. 
Uathiirst,  N.  B.  (55. 
Bay  Bulls,  N.  K.  11>7. 
IJay  otM'haUnir  t)5. 
*Bcaubiu>8iu  and  Beaufwyour 

7K. 
Bic  Island,  P.  Q.  250. 
Bras  d"Or,  C.  B.  1(55. 
Br  bmif,  I><';ro  200. 
Brest,  Lab.  280. 
Campobello  Id.,  N.  B.  20. 
Canada,  Lower  235. 
Canada,  tho  name  of  246. 
Canso.  N.  S.  144. 
Capo  Breton  14!) 
Cape  Breton  (old  Province) 

141. 
Cape  Broyle,  N.  P.  1!)7. 
Cape  Chatte,  I».  (l  24!). 
Cape  Despair,  I».  (f.  241. 
Caped'Or,  N.  H.  104. 
Cape  Sable,  N.  S.  123 
Cape  Sambro,  N.  H.  118. 
Caraquette,  N.  B.  W 
Carboiiear,  N.  F.  208. 
Cartler's  Voyages  1!)3,  204, 

245,  272,  293 
Caughnawaga,  P.  Q.  319. 
Chaiiiplain,  Saniiiel  d*;  273. 
Charlottetown,  P.  K.  1.  170. 
Ch.lt«;au,  Im\i.  227. 
Ciiateau  Bigot,  P.  Q.  280 
Chateau  Richer,  P.  Q  284. 
Chaunionot,  Pere  279. 
Ch.'zzetcook,  N.  H.  131. 
Chicoutimi,  P.  Q.  .'iOO. 
Clare  Settlements,  N.  S.  113. 
Conception  Bay,  N.  K.  2<)»). 
Constitution  and  Ouerriere 

m. 

Cote  de  Beaupr''  270. 
D'Aulnay  and  La  Tour  19, 
87,122. 


D'Avaiigour,  Baron  240. 
Dawson,  Dr.  .1    \V.  138. 
Dead  Islands,  N    K.  210. 
Kast.piirt,  Me  27. 
K.Htiiiiiiiaux,  the  220. 
Ferryland,  N.  V.  I!t8. 
Fort  La  II.  ve,  N.  S.  119. 
Forts   LawrcMcit  and  (!uui- 

bcrlaiid  78. 
Fort  Mcdiictic,  N.  B.  52. 
Fredcricton,  N.  B.  4<'i. 
Frontciiac,   ('ount    du  202, 

273. 
(Jasp.'',  P.  Q  244. 
Gilbert,  Sir  llumplirey  1.%, 

193. 
(Jloos(;ap   19.   41,   102,  100, 

120,  137,  144. 
(loat  Island,  N.  H.  85. 
(iranil  Banks  1!)9 
(irand  Lake,  N.  B.  48. 
(irand  Manati  28. 
(Jrand  Pr6,  N.  S.  108. 
(jlnysborougli,  N.  S.  Iii4. 
Ilaliburton,  .ludge  !)2. 
Halifax,  N.  S.  99 
Huron  Indians  27!),  28!). 
Indian  Lorett*' 279. 
Ingonish.C.  B.  159. 
Isle  aux  (Joudrcs  2!>3. 
Isle  of  Orleans  288. 
Jeniseg,  N.  B.  42. 
.Jesuits,  the  201,  200,  275, 

281.  I 

King's  College  !)2. 
Labrador  222, 223. 
L!u;liiiie,  P.  it  319.  i 

Lake  St.  .John,  P.  Q.  .'{01. 
I^ke  Utopia,  iN.  B.  .32. 
Liverpool,  N.  S.  120. 
I.Kjrds-Day   tJale    170,   153, 

185. 
lA)uisbourg,  (J.  B.  \rA,  149. 
Lunenburg,  .\.  8.  118. 
Madawaska,  N.  B.  57. 
Magdalen  Islands  184. 
Mahouebay,  N.ti.  128. 


Maiigerville,  N    B.  43 
Mirniac  Indians 08,  147,103, 

244. 
Mingan  Ids.,  Lab.  2:il. 
IVIininiiclii  District  M. 
Miscou  III.,  N.  It.  04. 
iMontr..al,  P.  (I   317. 
Moravian  Missions  220. 
Minray  Bay,  P.  Q   'Mt. 
New  Brunswick  14. 
Newfoun.lland  187,201,202, 

204  222. 
Norsemen  Tthe  123,204.245. 
Nova  Scotia.  70 
Oromocto,  N    B.  43 
Passauio(|uoildy  Bay  27. 
Pcnoliscot  Indi'ins  39. 
Pcrc.  ,  P.  H   243. 
Pictou,  N.  S.  137. 
Piaccniia,  N.  F.  212. 
Pl.a.s,int  Point,  Mc  27. 
Port  Latoiir,  N.  S.  P.:2. 
Port  Mouton,  N    S.  121. 
Prince  l')(hvard  Island  172. 
(iucliec  272. 
Bed  Indians  210,  218. 
Kestigouche  0!t. 
Kicliiliui^to  Indians  «K). 
iUvieredii  Loup  290. 
Hivii'ire  Omile  252. 
Rola-rvnls,  thelJOl. 
Robin  &  <;<)  240. 
Mabl(!  Islan.l  135. 
Saguenay  River  2!)8 
Ht.  Anne  de  Beau pn'- 285. 
Ht.  Anne's  Bay,  0.  B    158. 
St.  Angustln.'P,  Q.  ;iO«5. 
Ht  (Jrolx  Island  34 
St.  .loarbim,  P.  Q.  287. 
St.  .John,  N.  B.  i;j. 
St.  .lolm  River  40. 
Ht.  .John's,  N.  F.  193. 
St.  Mary's  Bay  112. 
St.  Paul's  Bay  292. 
Ht.  Paul's  Island  PSO. 
St.  Petxtr's,  (;.  B.  140. 
tit.  Pierre,  Mi(i.  180. 


N.  K.  107. 
JU. 

'2r>,;u. 

I,  H7. 

.  .s.  114,125. 
74. 


ns. 

N    H.  4.') 

nmdH,  ll7,l(i.% 

Lull.  'J.'il. 
Hlricl  i\ii. 
It.  (It. 

u  ;{i7. 

<Hi*)llH  'J2<t. 
rk   14. 

I  I H7, 201,202, 
^12.'},  204. 240. 

i».  4;{ 

l.lv  l»iiv  27. 

<ii'iiiN;iii. 

24.'{. 
i:{7. 

V.  212. 
If,  Mr.  27. 

N.  s.  r-2. 

,  N   H.  121. 
•a  IhIiudI  172. 

ilO,21H. 
li). 

nJiiiiiM  tiO. 
iiip  2W. 

<•  2ri2. 
i:  ;joi. 

240. 

i;jr>. 

v.v  298 
Iciiupn''  285, 
ly.C.  \i    ir>8. 
,1'.  Q.  .'M. 

11.1  ;h 

IV  Q.  2H7. 
JJ.  I'J. 
;r  40. 
.  K,  1H3, 
i>  112 
y  2!>2. 
rui.l  1«K). 
.  It.  14«. 

Hi  m. 


HcottiAh  MUrntlon  \m 
SIlliM-V,  I'    Q    '-Hi. 
Hon<i;  l».  Q   ;illH. 
Sirnit  of  Itollt^  Ixlo  '£20 
Hv.liicv.lV  II    U.I. 
Hydiivy  (nml-MliiKM  in<'l. 


!Nl>K.\. 


Tmltiuniif.  I'  Q  'JIIH.  21>»>. 
'I'lKimv,  Wrtnk  i.t'  llio  IIH. 
TniMmMiv,  N    K  'Jlfl 
TlNilN  I'lHll.ltiN    I*.  Q.  2Ai. 

Tnir...  N.  .S,  A|. 
UrNuHiitiM  (irQiiiilioo  2(US 


Index  to  Quotutioiu. 


33a 


U'Hlki^r'M   Ka|H)«llt|oii 

•J4l 
WnllU,  Atliulrnl  l(MI, 
WtlllaniH,  (h<ii    IlK) 
NVIiiiUoi',  N    M  tfj 
Yiii-iuiiiUh,  N    M.  114, 


'iUH, 


Alpxamlor,Hlr.l.  K.  JW,  68. 

IliiilUo,  T.  r.\ 

l(iilliiut.vii«,  II   M.  2U2. 

Ilorthor,  IlKiiiy  Wnnt  268. 

Ill iiifli«r  21)2. 

Il<.ii<>li«>t,t«<.  II.  247,  278. 

lloiiK'iliivlllo  T.iH. 

HoiiiiV<MiMHo,Hlr  II.  «I7.  ll>r.,218, 

llrowii,  IM.IiartI  141,   IM,  166,  167,  160, 

i(»),  2;i;) 

IJuti'H,  ArMiiir  240,  24H.  244.  248,  2f.O 
(!iirti.ir,  .liirtnifM  204,  240,  28H,  2(IM. 
Clminpiiilii  I24,2V;{,206 
(!hiirl<iv<ilx  ;{0,  77,  160,  \M,  1H4,  204,  2;i;i, 

2;JH,247,280,  20;{,  200,  .'{OO. 
CozwtiiH,  K.  H.  02,  m,  I(M>,  111,  nil,  140, 

142,  147,  1<«I. 
(!r<'inii/,l»t,().  247 
Diiwrniii,.!.  W.  102,  142. 
DoComOi,  H    V.  2H  20,  JIO. 
Do  Mllltt,  I'l-of  106 
Dllko,  Hlr(;imrl.-i268,  260. 
I)iiir<!rlii,  l.onl  2;t7. 
Fcrlaii.J,  Ahhi"'  2H2,  24H,  28JJ. 
Klmtl..  I,  .J.  (!  247. 
(l«Mi«r,  Dr.  A.  H.  JJ2,  ;K},  4a,  Wl 
(Jii|<lti,  Dr.  i;i4. 
UordoM,  lion.  Arthur  61,  62,  6^1,  66,60, 

02,  07. 
(Jr«v  247. 

Ifullhiirtori,  .liKlKn  Of).  01 ,  100,  ill,  li:). 
llalUH'M,  (;iiiirl««  07,  78.  lOU.  120,  127, 128, 

120,  IJJO,  100,  170,  226,  227,  240,  ;iOl, 
IfuitiilUiri,  88. 
Hardy,  (Japt.  120,  UK),  l.'Jl. 
Hawkinn'i  Qurhrr.  260,  260,  2<51,  272. 
Ilcrlot,  lii'oru;"  270,  284. 
Hln<),  I'rof.  m,m. 
HowftllH,  W    D.  mt,  2(58,  270,  278,  280, 

281   'Vi'2  !J''«J 
Dnrtty'u'-VaiZmtf  JHrfrtionsT-i,  168,1'?.), 248 
.lohmUm,  I'rof.  J.  V    W.  '2ii,  HI,  4/>,  67, 

71,117. 
.Iuk«;«,  I'rof.  J.  H.  180,  106,  100,210,218. 
Kuhii  ;j06. 
Kirk«!,  H«nry  246. 
U  ll-mUm.  Daroii  87,  212,  306. 
Laleiuaut,  l'«r«  'MH. 


I.niiinnii,  Clinrlt^M  08, 
1,0  Mollis,  .1    M   268,  204,  2H(),  204. 
I.i'min'liul,  M   JI4,  Ht,   HO,  201. 
/.(.«./..«  l'iiiir.>  267,  2ltH,  111)4. 

I kM\i>w,  II    W    11)0,  llO,  111,  IIM. 

I...W.1II,  It  T  M    187. 

M.Cnm,  1,1. Ci.l    lOJJ.  106,  107. 

MiiniiJt'r,  ,\.267. 

MarMhiill,  (!  27H,  280. 

IMnrllii,  M.  164. 

M(li.<Kor,.lolMi  10,42,  117,128,100. 

MiM.m,  Toin  IH4,  ;i20. 

MoiM'Hoii,  <!ii|)l.   110,  118    122. 

Miinloi'li,  II  76,  lot),  122,  166,  iM. 

N<ililii,  l(<.v.  I,    I,    :i(),  1)1,  loa,  141,  KM), 

180,  lUU,  100,  204,  210,  221 ,  22il,  224, 

•228. 
NoKiis  Orhis  126. 
I'arkiiiaii,  rraiMlH  2117,  246,  202,  20(1,  27A, 

271),  286,  2H8, 
I'.trl.ty.M,  n    182 
KiiiiMtaii.  M.  van,  277. 
UiiimiivtiK,  U.  II  00. 
lloiilliliT   S .  It  262 
HiiKaH  of  ii  t^laiHl  12a,  204. 
Haiiil,  Maiirlfii  im.  !'  .i. 
Hio(f.,<).  <:.  8,  !iO,2l,   . 
HiDil.  >',  (Jov  274 
8l)lliiitti.,  I'rof  2aM,  267,  2(J7,  277. 
Hu-iliimii,  U.  H    170 
HlrauMM,  2ai 

Hur.li.Mlaii(i,  lU.v.  (i«ori^«  178, 180, 
'IVI(.i261,2'.>0, 
Taylor'*    Cutiuitian   lluntlhiiuh  QA2,  248| 

261,282,  aiO 
Taylor,   Jlayanl  277,  201,  'M,  208,  297, 

Thorean,  I(    D    'iiVt ,  2a8.  240,  267,  2«7, 

270,  277,  2Wi,  284,  287,  Mi,  al2. 
Trii.l«iU«  202, 
Vollttlr«  274. 

W'arOiirUm,  Eliot  100,  106,  234,  2f/}. 
V/Mm^r,  <a/arlHB  lUiMtty ,  'Jifi,  iuj.  20,  84, 

w,  01 ,  '.f^,  06, 107,  m,  ho,  Jm,  im, 
n/i,  im,  io7, 108, 176, 170,  m. 

WUM,nru*t,(lHi,t  187- 

W))lU',.lohi),278,2'.>8.;j03. 

WhitiUir,  Joiiu  (i   21,  tit,,  200,  224,  230. 


334 


1 1* 


I 


INDEX. 


Index  to  Railways  and  Steamboat  Linei. 


European  and  North  American  .17. 

Grand  Trunk  306. 

Intercolonial  70,  78. 

New  Brunswick  49. 

New  Brunswick  and  Canada  33. 


Basin  ofMinas  101. 
Bras  d'Or,  161. 
Conception  Bay  (N.  F.)  208. 
Eastport  25. 
Grand  Lake  48. 
Halifax  to  Sydney  148. 
Labrador  224. 
Magdalen  Islands  188. 
Moisic  River  (Ijabrador)  229. 
Newfoundland  188,  148. 
Northern  Coastal  (N.  F.)  200. 
North  Shore  (N.B.)  60. 


PIctou  Branch  136. 

Prince  Edward  Island  1V7, 180, 182. 

Qucbi'C  nnd  Oosford  26.5. 

Shcdiac  Branch  59. 

Windsor  and  Annapolis  88. 


Fa.s.saniaquoddy  Bay  25,  30. 
Prince  Edward  Island  174,  175. 
Quebec  and  Gulf  Ports  238,  60. 
Quebec  to  Cacouna  291. 
Richelieu  (St.  Lawrence)  306. 
Saguunay  River  291,  297. 
St.  John  River  39,  51,  53. 
St.  Pierre  (Miq.)  186. 
Union  (St.  Lawrence)  306. 
Washademoak  liake  47. 
Western  Outports  213. 
Yarmouth  and  Halifax  117. 


Authorities  Consulted  in  the  Preparation  of  this  Volume. 

ihe  Editor  acknowledges  his  obligations  to  the  officers  of  the  Boston  Athenaeum, 
the  Parliaunent  Library  at  Halifax,  the  Colonial  Library  at  Charlottctown,  the  Me- 
chanics' Institute  at  St.  John,  and  the  libraries  of  Parliament,  of  the  Laval  Uni- 
versity, of  the  Institut  Canadien,  and  of  the  Literary  and  Historical  Society,  of 
Quebec. 

New  Brunswick,  with  Notes  for  Emigrants ;  by  Abraham  Gcsncr,  M.  D.    (1847.) 

Geology  of  New  Brunswick,  etc. ;  by  Dr.  Oesner. 

New  Brunswick  and  its  Scenery  ;  by  Jno.  II.  Hamilton.    (St.  John,  1874.) 

Account  of  Now  Brunswick ;  by  Thomas  Baillie.    (London,  1832.) 

Handbook  for  Emigrants  to  New  Brunswick;  by  M.  H.  Perley.    (St.  John,  1864.) 

Mount  Desert ;  by  B.  F.  De  Costa.     (New  York.) 

History  of  New  Brunswick ;  by  Cooney. 

Nouveau  Brunswick  ;  by  E.  Regnault.    (Paris.) 

History  of  Maine ;  by  James  Sullivan,  LL.  D.    (1795.) 
History  of  Maine ;  by  W.  D.  Williamson.    (2  vols. ;  1839  ) 
Transactions  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society. 

Letters  ftom  Nova  Scotia ;  by  Captain  Moorson.    (Ix)ndon.  1830.) 

Travels  in  Nova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick ;  by  J.  S.  Buckingham,  M.  P. 

Forest  Life  in  Acadie;  by  Capt.  Campbell  Hardy.    (London.) 

The  Fishing  Tourist ;  by  Charl«  i  Hailock.    (New  York,  1873.) 

Acadia ;  or  A  Mouth  among  the  Bluenoses  ;  by  Frederick  S.  Coasens.    (New  York, 

1859.) 
The  Neutral  French  ;  a  Story  of  Nova  Scotia. 
The  Lily  and  the  Cross ;  by  Prof.  De  Mille. 
The  Boys  of  Grand  Pre  School ;  by  Prof.  De  Mille. 
The  Clock-Maker ;  by  Judge  T.  C.  Haliburton. 
The  Old  Judge;  by  Judge  T.  C.  Haliburton. 

The  Pre-Columbian  Discovery  of  America;  by  B.  F.  De  Costa.    (New  York.) 
Acadian  Geology  ;  by  J.  W.  Dawson,  LL.  D.,  F.  R.  S.    (Halifax.  1855.) 
On  the  Mineralogy  and  Geology  of  Nova  Scotia  ;  by  Dr.  A.  Gesner. 
An  Historical  and  Statistical  Account  of  Nova  Scotia;  by  T.  C.  Haliburton,  D.  C.  L., 

M.  P.    (2  vols. ;  Halifax,  1829.) 
History  of  Nova  Scotia,  or  Acadie;  by  Beamish  Murdoch,  Q.  C    (3  vols. ;  Hali&x, 

1865.) 
A  General  Description  of  Nova  Scotia.    (Halifax,  1823.) 


INDEX. 


335 


32. 


me. 

benaeum, 
,  the  Me- 
aval  Uni- 
3ciety,  of 

1847.) 


1854.) 


ew  York, 


) 

,D.C.L., 
HaUfox, 


A  Illfltory  of  thn  Island  of  Cape  Breton  ;  by  Richard  Brown,  F.  0.  8.,  F.  R.  Q.  8. 

(London, 1869.) 
Importance  nnd  AdvantaRes  of  Cape  Breton ;  by  Wm.  BoUan.    (London,  1746) 
Lfttor.son  Capo  Breton  ;  by  Thoniua  Plchon.     (London,  1760.) 
Baddeck,  and  that  Sort  of  Thing  -,  by  Charles  Dudley  Warner.    (Boston,  1874.) 

Prince  Edward  Inland  ;  by  Rov.  Oeorpfe  Sutherland.    (Charlottotown,  1861.) 
Progro8.<»  and  Prospects  of  Prince  Edward  Island ;  by  C.  B.  Bagster.  (Charlottetown, 

1861.) 
Travels  in  Prince  Edward  Island  ;  by  Walter  Johnstone.    (Edinburgh,  1824.) 

A  Concise  History  of  Newfoundland  ;  by  F.  R.  Page.     (London,  I860.) 

Hiritory  of  the  Qovernment  of  Newfoundland  ;  by  Chief  Justice  John  Roere.    (LoB- 

don,1793.) 
Catechism  of  the  History  of  Newfoundland  ;  by  W.  C.  St.  John.    (Boston,  1865.) 
Pedley's  History  of  Newfoundland. 
Anspach's  History  of  Newfoundland. 

Newfoundland  in  1842  ;  by  Sir  R  H.  Bonnycastle.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1842.) 
Voyage  of  H.  M.  S   Rosamond;  by  Lieut.  Chappell,  R.  N.     (London,  1818.) 
Losit  amid  tiie  Fogs;  by  Lieut. -Col.  McCrea,  Royal  Artillery.    (London.  18^.) 
The  New  Priest  of  Conception  Bay  ;  by  R.  T.  S.  Lowell.     (Boston,  1838. ) 
Excursions  in  and  about  Newfoundland  by  Prof.  J.  B.  Jukes.    (2  vols.;  LondoiL 

1842.) 
Geological  Surrey  of  Newfoundland  for  1878 ;  by  Alex.  Murray,  F.  G.  8.  (St.  John'i, 

1874.) 
After  Icebergs  with  a  Painter ;  by  Rev.  L.  L.  Noble.    (New  York,  1860.) 

A  Voyage  to  Labrador ;  by  L'Abb6  Fcrland.    (Quebec.) 

Notes  on  the  Coast  of  Labrador  ;  by  Robertson.    (Quebec.) 

Explorations  in  the  Interior  of  the  Labrador  Peninsula;  by  Prof.  H.  Y.  Hind,  F.  R. 

G.  S.    (2  vols  ;  London,  1863.) 
Sixteen  Years'  Residence  on  the  Coast  of  Labrador ;  by  George  Cartwright.  (8  voIb.  ; 

Newark,  1792.) 
A  Summer  Cruise  to  Labrador ;  by  Charles  Hallock.     In  Harper's  Magazine,  Vol. 

XXIL 

History  and  General  Description  of  New  France  ;  by  Father  P.  F.  X.  Charlevoix.  (6 
vols.  ;  in  Shea's  translation  ;  New  York,  1872.) 

liistoirc  de  la  Nonvelle  France ;  by  Marc  Lescarbot.    (1609 ;  Paris,  1866  ;  8  vols.) 

Cours  d'Histoire  du  Canada ;  by  L'Abb6  Ferland. 

Histoire  de  la  Colonie  Francaise  en  Canada ;  by  M.  Faillon.  (3  vols. ;  Ville-Marie  [Mon- 
treal], 1865-6). 

History  of  Canada;  bj  F.  X.  Qameau.    (Bell's  translation  ;  Montreal,  1866.) 

History  of  Canada  ;  by  John  MacMullen.     (Brockviile,  1868.) 

Novus  Orbis  ;  by  Johannes  de  Laet.     (Leyden,  1633.) 

Les  Relations  des  Jesuits. 

Lower  Canada;  bj  Joseph  Bouchette.    (London,  1815.) 

British  Dominions  in  North  America ;  by  Joseph  Bouchette.  (2  vols. ;  London,  1882.) 

British  America ;  by  John  M'Grcgor.     (2  vols. ;  London,  1832.) 

La  France  aux  Colonies  ;  by  M  Rameau.    (Paris,  1859.) 

Le  Canada  au  Point  de  Vue  Economique  ;  by  Louis  Strauss.    (Paris,  1867.) 

Hochelaga,  or  England  in  the  New  World  ;  by  Eliot  Warburton.  (2  vols. ;  New  York, 
1846.) 

The  Conquest  of  Canada;  by  Eliot  Warburton.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1849.) 

The  First  English  Conquest  of  Canada  ;  by  Henry  Kirke.     (London,  1871.) 

The  Pioneers  of  France  in  the  New  World  ;  by  Francis  Parkman.    (Boston,  1866.) 

The  Jesuits  of  North  America  ;  by  Francis  Parkman. 

The  Old  Regime  in  Canada ;  by  Francis  Parkman.    (Boston,  1874.) 

Histoire  du  Canada;  by  Gabriel  Sagard.    (4  vols  ;  Paris,  1866  ) 

Sketches  of  Celebrated  Canadians  ;  by  Henry  J.  Morgan.    (Montreal,  1865.) 

Hawkins's  New  Picture  of  Quebec.     (Quebec,  1884.) 

Reminiscences  of  Quebec.     (Quebec,  1858.) 

Decouverte  du  TomhpBu  de  Champlain ;  by  LaverdicT-e  and  Ca.Hgrain.   (Quebec,  1866. ) 

Maple  Leaves  ;  by  J.  M.  Le  Moine.     (Quebec.) 


336 


INDEX. 


Letton  xur  I'Amerique  ;  by  X.  Mamiipr.     (Parifi.) 

Account  of  a  Journey  botwp<>n  llartfonl  anil  Qucboc  ;  by  Prof.  B.  Sllliman.     (1820.> 

Taylor's  (/iinadlan  Handbook.     (Mmitroal.) 

EnnUsh  America ;  by  S.  ".  Day.     ('2  vols  ;  London,  1804.) 

Thr«'e  Years  iti  (Jauada  ;  by  John  MacTaKKart.     (2  vols.  ;  liOndon,  1829.) 

Western  Wanderings;  by  W.  II.  O.  Kini^'^ton      (2  vols.  ;  I^ondon,  1860.) 

SketcheH  of  Lower  ('anada  ;  by  Jo.xeph  .*^anson.     (New  York,  1H17.) 

The  Canadian  Dominion  ;  by  Charles  Mittsliall.     (London,  1H71.) 

Five  Years'  Ke^lilenco  in  the  Canadas  ;  by  K   A.  'lalbot.     (2  vols. ;  London,  1824.) 

Sltetches  from  America  ;  by  John  White.     (London,  1870.) 

Travels  through  the  Canadas  ;  by  Oeorjje  Ueriot.     (Ixindou,  1807.) 

British  PossessionH  ;  by  M.  Hmlth.     (Baltimtire,  1S14.) 

AdvcntureM  In  the  Wilds  of  America  ;  by  Charles  Lunman.    (2  vols. ;  Philadelphia, 

185G.) 
Pine-Forests  ;  by  Lieut  -Col.  SleiRh.     (London,  1863.) 
The  travels  of  Hall,  Lyell,  Trollope,  Dickens,  Johnston,  etc. 
Bref  llecltetSucclncte  Narration  do  la  Navigation  falteen  MDXXXV.  et  MDXXXVI. 

par  lo  Capitalne  Jacques  Cartler.     (Paris,  1863  ) 
The  Principal  NuviKatlons,  Voyages,  etc.,  of  the  English  Nation  ;  by  Richard  Hak- 

luyt.     (1589-1600.) 
Les  Vovagej  ik  la  Nouvelle  France,  etc.  ;  by  Samuel  de  Chaniplaln.    (1632;  Paris, 

1830.) 
Relation  du  Voyage  au  Port  Royal ;  by  M.  Dicrevllle.     (Amsterdam,  1710.) 
Nouveaux  Voyages,  etc. ;  by  the  Baron  La  llontan.    (1703;  London,  1786  ) 
Relation  Orijrinale  du  Voyage  de  Jacques  Cartler.    (Paris,  1867.) 
MeAiolreB,  Relations,  et  Voyages  de  Dd'couverte  au  Canada.     (Quebec,  1888.) 
Voyage  to  Canada ;  by  Father  Charlevoix.     (London,  1763  ) 
Six  Mille  Lieues  a  Toute  Vapeur ;  by  Maurice  Saud.    (Paris.) 
Greater  Britain  ;  by  Sir  Charles  Dilke. 
The  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  by  K.  M.  Ballantyne. 
Imray's  Sailing  Directions.     (London  ) 

Journal  of  a  Voyage  to  the  Coist  of  Gasp '•  ;  by  L'Abbe  Ferland.     (Quebec.) 
The  Lower  St.  Lawrence  ;  by  Dr.  VV.  J.  Ander.-ion.     (Quebec,  1872) 
Le  Chercheur  de  Tr^sors  ;  by  Ph.  Aubert  de  Gasjx^  fils      (Quebec,  1868.) 
Chronlques  Humeura  et  Caprices  ;  by  Arthur  Bules.     (Quebec,  1873  ) 
Les  Anclens  Canadiens  ;  by  Philippe  Aubert  de  Gaspe.     (Quebec,  1864.) 
L'Albuni  du  Tourlste  ;  by  J.  M.  Le  Molne.     (Quebec,  1872.) 
The  Blockade  of  Quebec  :  by  Dr.  W.  -I.  Andert^on.     (Quebec,  1872.) 
Journal  of  the  Siege  of  Quebec  ;  by  Gen.  James  Murray      (Quebec,  1871 ) 
The  Expedition  against  Quebec  ;  by  "  A  Volunteer."     (Quebec,  1872  ) 
GhSiteau  Bigot;  by  J.  M.  Le  Molne.     (Quebec,  1874.) 
A  Chance  Acquaintance;  by  W.  D.  Howella.     (Boston,  1873.) 
A  Yankee  In  Canada;  by  Henry  D.  Thorean.     (Boston,  1862.) 
La  Lltt(irature  Canadienne.     (2  vols.  ;  Quebec,  1863-4.) 
Soirees  Canadiennes.     (2  vols  ;  Quebec,  1861.) 
Travels  In  New  Brunswick ;   by  Hon.  Arthur  Gordon.    (In  Vacation  Tourists  for 

1862-3,  London.) 
Field  and  Forest  Rambles;  by  A.  Lelth  Adams.     (London,  1873.) 
L'Acadie,  or  Seven  Years'  Explorations  in  British  North  America ;  by  Sir  James 

E.  Alexander.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1849.) 
Game-Fish  of  the  North  and  the  British  Provinces  ;  by  R.  B.  Roosevelt.    (New 

York,  1865 ) 
Fishing  in  American  Waters  ;  by  Genlo  C.  Scott.    (New  York.) 
The  American  Angler's  Guide;  by  Norrls.     (New  York.) 

Fish  and  Fishing  ;  by  H.  W.  Herbert  ("  Frank  Forrester  ").     (New  York,  1850.) 
The  Fishing  Tourist ;  by  Charles  Hallock.    (New  York,  1873.) 
Les  Muses  de  la  Nouvelle  France  ;  by  Marc  Lescarbot.     (Paris,  1609.) 
Evangeline,  a  Tale  of  Acadio  ;  by  Henry  W.  Longfellow.     (Boston,  1847.) 
The  Poetical  Works  of  John  G.  Whittier.     (Boston.) 
The  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Saguenay  ;  by  Charles  Sangster     (Kingston. ) 
Essais  Po^tiques  ;  by  Leon  Pamphile  Le  May.     (Quebec,  1866.) 
Mes  Loislrs  ;  by  Louis  Honore  Frechette.    (Quebec.) 
The  Poetical  Works  of  0.  Cremazie,  J.  Lenoir,  and  L.  J.  C.  Fiset.     (Quebec.) 


(1820. 


The  A  B  C  PATHFINDER  RAILWAY 
GTIIDE,  Issued  monthly  by  the  New  England 
Railway  Publishing  Co.,  67  Federal  St.,  Boston, 
Maps.,  has  been  published  continuously  from 
July  Ist,  1849.  This  popularGuide,  theoldest 
in  America,  enjoys  a  circulation  among  the 
traveling  public  larger  than  any  other  Guide, 
and  contains  everything  that  can  be  found  in 
similar  publications,  with  countless  details  that 
cannot  be  found  elsewhere.  Its  advertising 
rates,  circulation  considered,  are  the  lowest, 
and  the  subscription  price,  $2.50  per  annum, 
places  it  within  the  reach  cf  all  who  have  use 
for  a  reliable  and  intelligible  Railway  Guide. 
The  large  colored  map.''  accompanying  each 
number  of  the  PATHFINDER  are  acknow- 
ledged by  all  to  be  the  finest  railway  maps 
ever  engraved.  Single  copies  are  mailed  to 
any  address  for  25  cents. 


Ur 


my 

k 


*^AWQ;;;-'V^^'3:-i««'<::-  r^*! 


THE  VENDOME, 

Cor.  Commonwealth  Avenue  and  Dartmoutfi  St,, 

BOSTON. 

The  Hotel  Vendome  is  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  hotel  struc- 
tures in  this  country.  Its  elegance,  spaciout;ness,  sanitnry  excellence, 
and  unequalled  location  make  it  most  desirable  for  transient  vi'-itors 
and  tourists.  It  is  also  peculiarly  attractive  as  a  residence  for  ladies 
and  families. 

It  is  situated  in  the  Back  Bay  District,  one  of  the  grandest  archi- 
tectural sections  to  be  found  in  any  country,  and  surrounded  by 
noteworthy  pul)lic  buildings,  —  the  Art  Museum,  Public  Library, 
Trinity,  New  Old  South,  First  Ba])tist,  and  other  prominent  churches 
and  schools,  both  public  and  private. 

Commonwealth  Avenue  (extending  from  the  Public  Garden  to 
the  new  Park)  upon  which  the  Vendome  hns  its  main  front,  is 
acknowledL'^ed  to  be  the  finest  boulevard  in  America.  It  is  two  hun- 
dred and  forty  feet  wide,  and  through  its  centre  is  an  improved  Park, 
one  hundred  feet  wide,  lined  Avith  trees  and  shrubs,  while  facing  it 
are  the  most  costly  and  beautiful  residences  in  the  city. 

G.  H.  GREENLEAF  &  CO.,  Proprietors. 


C.  H.  Grfenleaf, 
Gf  I'rojilv  House, 


White  Mountains, 


1!^ 


In  to 

it,  is 
lum- 
[ark, 
igit 


n». 


-^THE  -*  PROFILE  *  HOUSE, i«- 

WHITE  MOUNTAINS,  NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


fe.  '^s^^^lEfi  Greenieaf 

i:    :-^^'- "  ^^":\:.;'-    ■"":-;;:  Proprietors.;; 


THE  Proprietors  of  the  Profile  House  present  their  compliments  to  the  travel- 
ing public,  and  invite  their  attention  to  one  of  the  finest,  hest  known,  and 
most  beautifully  located  of  Summer  Resorts.  It  is  situated  in  tlie  Franconia  Notch, 
on  an  open  plateau  neai'ly  2,(100  feet  above  the  sea,  between  two  cliarmiug  lakes, 
and  amid  more  gems  of  scenery  and  points  of  interest  to  the  traveler  tlian  can 
be  found  in  any  other  section  in  New  Hampshire. 

Tlie  Profile,  or  Great  Stone  Face,  is  near  the  hotel,  and  is  undoubtedly  the  most 
remarkable  rock  formation  in  tliis  country  if  not  in  the  wniid. 

Exnu>sions  on  foot  or  by  carriage  may  be  made  to  B:ild  Mountain,  Echo  and 
Profile  Lakes,  Old  Man  of  tlie  Mountain,  througli  the  Franconia  Notch  to  the 
Fhnne  (wliicli  is  the  object  of  a  pilgrimnge  to  every  Wlilte  Mountain  tourist*,  tlie 
Fhime  House,  Pool,  Basin,  and  several  minor  points  of  interest.  Also  by,rail  to 
Bethlehem,  Maplewood,  Jefferson,  Mount  Wasliington,  or  througli  the  White 
Mountain  Notch  to  Nortli  Conway,  and  return  tlie  same  day. 

The  House  is  the  largest  sunnner  hotel  in  Now  England.  It  is  heated,  when 
necessary,  by  steam  and  open  wood  fires,  and  has  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices,  Ele- 
vator, Gas,  and  every  modern  convenience.  All  the  popular  amusements  are  fur- 
nished, and  every  eliort  made  to  provide  a  pleasant  home  for  seekers  of  health, 
rest,  or  pleasure.    Open  from  June  25  to  October  1  of  each  year. 

Our  New  Flume  House,  open  from  June  15  to  October  20,  has  accommodations 
for  one  liundred  guests,  and  is  well  adapted  to  the  wants  of  those  wlio  ' 
make  a  long  season  in  tne  mountuins.  Respectfully, 


C.  H.  GREENLEAF,  of  Hotel  Vendome,  Boston. 


TAFT  &  GREENLEAF. 


Boston  Daily  Traveller. 

A  BUSINESS  MAN'S 

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THE  LADY  OF  FORT' ST.  JOHN, 

By  Mary  Hartwell  Catherwood.    Short  Stories  will  be  furnished  by 

RUDYARD  KIPLING,  HENRY  JAMES, 

Sarah  Orne  Jewett,  Octave  Thanet,  and  others.  Papers  and  poems 
are  contributed  by 

DR.  OLIVER  WENDELL  HOLMES. 

Poems  and  criticisms  from  Mr.  Lowell  and  Mr.  Whittier  appear 
from  time  to  time. 

"  ABRAHAM  LINCOLN,"  by  CARL  SCHURZ, 

and  "  General  Sherman,"  by  John  C.  Ropes,  are  examples  of  those 
Biographical  Papers  which  the  Atlantic  excels  in.  Untechnical 
papers  on  Questions  in  Modern  Science,  and  Topics  in  Education 
will  be  a  feature.  Agnes  Repplier  contributes  Essays.  Mr.  Richard 
Watson  Gilder,  Dr.  Parsons,  Miss  Thomas,  Graham  R.  Tomson,  and 
others,  are  among  the  contributors  of  Poetry. 


^mjL  TERMS :  $4.00  a  year  in  ad^Dance,  postage  free  ;  j?5  cents  an 
**  her.     With  new  life-si^e  portrait  of  Lowell,  or  with  portrait 


mum- 
raits  of 

Hawthorne,  Emerson,  Longfellow,  Bryant,  Whittier,  or  Holmes,  $1^.00 ; 
each  additional  portrait,  $1.00. 


Houghton,  Mifflin  and  Company. 

4  Park  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


thly 


out  the  year, 
vords, 

HOUSE 


furnished  by 

/\ES, 

rs  and  poems 

BS. 

littier  appear 

:hurz, 

pies  of  those 
Untechnical 

in  Education 
Mr.  Richard 

Tomson,  and 


^  cents  anum- 
b  portraits  of 
olmes,  $3.00 ; 


)any. 


THE  YARMOUTH  STEAMSHIP  CO. 

(LIMITED.) 
1 39 1 .      Shortest  and  Most  Direct  Bonte  Between      1891. 

UNITED  STATES  AND  NOVA  SCOTIA. 

Sea  Voyage  only  1 7  hrs.  Tickets  sold  to  all  parts  of  Nova  Scotia. 

This  Line  makes  close  connections  with  all  Railroad  and  Steamship  Lines  in 
Nova  Scotia.     The  fast  and  popular  Steamship 

*' YARMOUTH" 

sails  from  Lewis  Wharf,  Boston,  for  Yarmouth,  N.  S.,. every  Tuesday  and 
Fridiiy,  at  lo  A.  M.,  connecting  there  next  morning  with  trains  for  Dig  by  and  all 
Stations  on  VV.  and  A.  Ry.  to  Halifax;  also  with  N.  S.  C.  Ry.,  and  Davison's 
Coach  Line.  Returning,  sails  from  Yarmouth  for  Boston  every  IVednesaay 
and  Saturday  Eveni/ij^,  niter  thQarrivA\  of  W.  C.  Ry.  Express  train. 
The  "  Yarmouth  •'  carries  A  regular  mail  to  and  from  Yarmouth. 

Steamer      CITY  OF  STi  JOHN  **  sails  from  Yarmouth  for  Halifax, 
calling  at  Intermediate  Ports,  every  Thursday  Morning,  at  7  o'clock. 

For  Rates  0/ passages,  Staterooms,  etc.,  apply  to 

J.  F.  SPINNEY,  Agent,  Pier  i,  Lewis  Wharf. 
J.  G.  HALL  &  CO.,  No.  64  Chatham  St. 
THOS.  COOK  &  SON,  332  Washington  St. 
W.  H.  EAVES,  Parker  House,  Boston. 

The  Concord  and  Montreal  Railroad 

IS  THE 

MERRIMACK  VALLEY  ROUTE 

TO  THE 

WHITE  AND   FRANCONIA  MOUNTAINS, 

Lake  Winnipesaukee, 

CANADA,  AND  THE  WEST, 


TRAINS   LEAVE   FROM  THE 

Boston  and  Lowell  R.  R.  Station,  Causeway  St.,  Boston. 

For  Tickets  and  all  information  apply  to 

BOSTON  PASSENGER   AGENCY, 
207  Washington  St.,  Boston. 


^v 


70p^  

l^^llNTERNATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  CO.'S  IINE 

•Ug^jl         OF  POPULAR  STEAMERS    • 


Hl'.rWEb',N 


g^gOSTON,  PORTLAND,  EASTPORT,  AND  CALAIS,  ME. 

PCOLLECTION 


AND 

ST.  JOHN,   N.  B. 


i( 


With  Connections  for  Campobello  and  St.  Andrews,  also  for 
all  Parts  of  MARITIME   PROVINCES. 

SPRING   ARRANGEMENT. 

3rai/  4,  18in,  to  .Ttntf  22,  1801. 

Steamers  leave  Boston  at  8.30  A.  M.,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  for 
Eastport  and  St.  John.  Leave  Portland  at  5-00  f-  ^I-  Mondays  and  Fridays  only. 
(The  Wednesday  trip  is  to  be  made  direct  to  Eastport,  not  calling  at  Portland.) 

Returning,  leave  St.  John  at  7.25  A.  M.,  and  Eastport  at  12.30  P.  M.,  for  Bos- 
ton, Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays,  and  for  Portland  Mondays  and  Fridays 
only..  (The  Wednesday  trip  is  to  be  made  direct  between  Eastport  and  Boston, 
not  calling  at  Portland.) 

SUMMER  TIME-TABLE. 

liaily  Line  (Except  Sunday),  June  32  to  Sejtt.  12,  1891, 
Going  East,  Steamers  leave  as  follows: 

BOSTON,  Monday,  5.00  P.  M.     Direct  to  Eastport  and  -St.  John. 
Tuesday,        "  " 

Wednrsday,  1. 00  P.  M.     By  Boston  and  ^Iaine  R.  R.,  connecting  at 

Portland  with  steamer  for  Eastport  and  St.  John. 
Thursday,  5.00  P.  M.     Direct  to  Eastport  and  St.  John. 
Frid.\y,        "     "  "  " 

"  Saturday,  i.oo  P.  M.     By  I^.oston  »^  Maine  R.  R.,  connecting  at 

Portland  with  steamer  for  Eastport  and  St.  John. 

Going  West,  Steamers  leave  as  follows: 

ST.  JOHN,  7.25  A.  M.,  and  Eastport  at  noon,  Monday,  Boston  direct. 

"  '■  and  Eastport  at  noon,  Tuesday,  to  Portland,  connect- 

ins  witli  Boston  &  l\raine  R.  R.  train,  due  in  Boston 
at  I  r.io  A.  M. 
"  and  Eastport  at  noon,  Wednesday,  Boston  direct. 

and  Eastport  at  noon,  Thursday,  Boston  direct. 
"  and  Eastport  at  noon,  Friday,  to  Portland,  connect- 

ing with  Boston  &  Maine  R.  R.  train,  due  in  Boston 
at  11.10  A.  M. 
"  and  Eastport  at  noon,  Saturday,  Boston  direct. 

Sept.  12,  1891,  to  Nov.  2,  1891. 

Same  Time-Table  as  May  4  to  June  22,  1891. 

November  2,  1  891 ,  to  March,  1  892. 

The  usual  arrangement  is  for  the  steamers  to  leave  either  end  of  the  route,  call- 
ing at  Portland  and  Eastport  in  both  directions,  Mondays  and  Thursdays  at  the 
usual  hours.  For  a  few  weeks  in  midwinter  the  service  may,  however,  be  reduced 
to  one  trip  per  week ;  Monday  going  East,  and  Thursday  coming  West. 

E.  A.  WALDRON.  J.  B.  COVEE, 

General  Agent,  Manager^ 

Commercial  Wharf,  Boston.  Portland,  Mb. 


II 
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:all- 

the 

ked 


HOTEL  BRUNSWICK,  Boston,  Mass.,  Corner  of  Boyl- 
Ston  and  Clarendon  Streets,  opposite  Trinity  Church  (Phillips 
J!rook.s"s),  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology,  the  Museum  of  statural 
History,  and  close  to  the  Museum  of  Kinc  Arts,  the  Now  Old  South  Church,  etc., 
and  amid  the  best  part  of  the  beautiful  Back  Bay  District. 

Also,  tinder  the  fsntne  Proprietorship , 

HOTEL  VICTORIA,  a  new  and  sumptuous  hotel  at  the  comer  of 
Dartmouth  and  Newbury  Streets,  kept  on  the  European  plan,  and  by  veteran 
travelers  called  "  the  Delmonico's  of  Boston."'  This  house  is  on  the  Back  Bay, 
close  to  Copley  Square  and  Commonwealth  Avenue. 

HOTEL  PONEMAH,  at  Milford  Springs,  N.  H.,  one  and  a 

half  miles  by  stage  from  Amherst  Station,  which  is  one  and  a  quarter  hours  by 
express  train  from  Boston  (Boston  and  Lowell  line).  A  first-class  and  modern 
summer  resort,  at  the  fam.ous  Pontmah  and  Milford  Springs. 

These  three  famous  hotels  are  conducted  by 

BARNES  &  DUNKLEE. 


